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Customizable Battery Case

by walter, published

Customizable Battery Case by walter Mar 5, 2013

Description

A customizable battery case to hold batteries while traveling. Configurable for the number of batteries and type (as long as they're cylindrical). This is a updated version of the customizable battery carrier ( http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:51376 ), re-designed to work without magnets as requested by GregFisk25.

Recent Comments

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I tried to create a lid with a negative part gap -.1 (3mm lip), but anything less than zero generates a lid with no recessed step to accept the lip. Did I do something wrong?
I replaced the bearing and spring with the recommended ones (i had hoped the spring and bearing from a different user would work) AND I moved the rep2 to a more solid surface. Timidly printing with a 2mm wall and no problems so far! Thanks!
Have you got the extruded spring upgrade? It makes a rep2 go from a POS to and excellent machine. Never had a failed print since..

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Instructions

Create a top and bottom piece (the sum of the heights of the two parts should be equal or slightly larger than the battery height, you can divide it up any way you want).

for reference, here are some common battery heights: AA - 50.5mm AAA - 44.5mm CR123A - 34.5mm CR2 - 27mm

walter, these custom battery holders are just way too cool. I do some work in film & video so we have LOTS of batteries that we need to keep on hand. I have zip-lock bags full of AAA, AA and 9v batteries. They do get banged around a bit in bags so I'm really loving these custom battery holders. I chose to print holders that hold 8 batteries each. I've printed 4 of these already and I still have some lose batteries so I'm going to keep printing until I have no more lose batteries. I do realize a 9v battery version would not share much of the code from the cylinder based version, but I'd really love a 9v version. If I was better with OpenSCAD, I'd make one myself.
How would I work out the exact zpos where the base of the writing on the cap is so that I could make the top of the cap a different color so that the writing shows through in the base color. With sailfish, I can pause at an exact zpos to do a great job of it...
The label depth is in mm, a negative value will emboss the part by cutting up in the positive z direction, a positive value will extrude down in the negative z direction. Both the emboss and extrude start on the x-y plane at z=0. For the lid part, the total height should be "inside height" + "base" + "extruded text depth (if any)". Not sure if that answers your question, I haven't tried switching colors or sailfish so I'm not sure what the process requires.
I printed this with 0 part gap, and a 10mm overlap and it is still too loose to hold together in a bag.
Can I use a negative part gap?
I just modified to code to accept a negative part gap, hope that works for you. You should only need to reprint the lid part (positive part gap will affect the bottom piece, negative part gap will affect the top piece).
Wow. Thanks so much. You really put the 'custom' in customiser!
Now the 9v... Lol. :)

Thanks again
Wow. Thanks so much. You really put the 'custom' in customiser!
Now the 9v... Lol. :)

Thanks again

[image: DISQUS] <http: disqus.com="">

walter wrote, in response to GregFisk25:

I just modified to code to accept a negative part gap, hope that works for you. You should only need to reprint the lid part (positive part gap will affect the bottom piece, negative part gap will affect the top piece).
User's website <http: walter="" thingiverse.com="">

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I tried to create a lid with a negative part gap -.1 (3mm lip), but anything less than zero generates a lid with no recessed step to accept the lip. Did I do something wrong?
Hi! Do you have any suggestions as to recommended print settings? I've been starting with wpthomas' 200 micron profile and increasing the solidity because of the utility of the case with little success. how solid would you recommend making this?
I use an Afinia printer, which uses their own proprietary software, so I'm not familiar with the software and settings most people are using. Hopefully the settings GregFisk25 suggested will help.
I just use the 200 profile, 10infill, 3 shells, 0.2 layer with no problems at all.
Hmm frustrating... I'm doing the same now and while the first half is alright, it manages to jam up and stop extruding! Possibly build plate or translucent blue filament problem?
Have you got the extruded spring upgrade? It makes a rep2 go from a POS to and excellent machine. Never had a failed print since..
I replaced the bearing and spring with the recommended ones (i had hoped the spring and bearing from a different user would work) AND I moved the rep2 to a more solid surface. Timidly printing with a 2mm wall and no problems so far! Thanks!
I made one with the default settings in customiser and the walls are rather thin (which is probably perfectly adequate when there are batteries in it).
The push fit is extremely loose tho. I will experiment and see what a good value for a tight lid is.
I bet if the cap part went a little farther down the outside of the base, it could even be made waterproof. And I also bet this could be tweaked to also be a custom battery case for printed electronics.
Also, I would really like a 9v battery version :)
I second. Really be use useful is to hold two 9v batteries that can be used to power electronic projects as well. Ive seen some for sale but for some reason so expensive.
Could you add customisable text to this?
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