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A Replicator 2 build plate

by kwalus, published

A Replicator 2 build plate by kwalus Mar 5, 2013

Description

My plate fractured as I was trying to desperately remove a part, so I had this one cut using a waterjet. I included the SolidWorks files in case you want to modify.

UPDATE: got a build plate waterjet from glass and it was one of two best upgrades to the Rep 2 and has had a substantial positive impact on my build experience. The other best is definitely this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:42250

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Aluminum arms mad a huge difference in the top surface.
thingiverse.com/thing:51426

this is the one here, some people have more success with it than others, but it is probably worth trying.
Can you direct me to the ducted fan cooler that you mentioned. I fully agree with your first two upgrade items.

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Instructions

Cut from glass or acylic using waterjet or otherwise. If you use glass then you will need to use tape but in my experience the tape sticks very nicely to glass.

Can you direct me to the ducted fan cooler that you mentioned. I fully agree with your first two upgrade items.
thingiverse.com/thing:51426

this is the one here, some people have more success with it than others, but it is probably worth trying.
Improved Rep 2 Fan Duct
I really wish I had access to a waterjet cutter too. I also upgraded my build platform to a glass plate but it's just a rectangle with no notches. I use a big binder clip from staples to keep it in place. I don't use any rubber or felt under my glass. Just flat glass on flat plastic. This is without a doubt one of the most important upgrades to my Rep2. I don't print on tape, I print directly to the glass and use aquanet to keep my prints stuck to the glass. The super shiny finish of the glass side of my prints looks so beautiful.

In my opinion, the 3 most important Rep2 upgrades, in order, are:

1.) Extruder Upgrade (get rid of delrin plunger and use ball bearing & spring)
2.) Glass Bed
3.) Ducted Fan Cooler

Since these three upgrades my prints are much more reliable and look so much more polished and professional. I highly recommend anyone with a Rep2 to do all 3.
Aluminum arms mad a huge difference in the top surface.
Thanks! what is aquanet? I am very curious because I had difficulty with
that and needed to use tape but would rather not. Also which ducted fan
cooler are you referring to as I am also interested in that?

Regardless,
I agree and believe that glass should ship standard with this. I have
not had to level my plate in weeks and the quality of the prints has
certainly improved as well as reduced my waste.
Aquanet is a specific brand of hairspray. I learned about it on these comments. I actually tried a bunch of different hairspray and even 3M spray adhesive (which is VERY expensive). I couldn't find the aquanet anywhere but then I finally found it and it works better than anything I've tried. The beauty is, that it gives just the right amount of stick. The prints don't curl up on the glass bed, but they are easy to get off the plate after the build is done. The prints come out much better than when printing on painters tape.

The fan upgrade I use is here: thingiverse.com/thing:51426

You'll be amazed how much better your printer will print fine detail with proper cooling.

I should also mention that I ALWAYS print the first layer with the cooling fan off. This makes the prints stick so much better too.
Improved Rep 2 Fan Duct
Be VERY careful if you use ANY of these spray adhesives - especially 3M Sprays. They are industrial strength - MUST BE USED IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA - and with CAUTION. They are all highly flammable. Read the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) for them.
That is a very good point. Hairspray is also flammable, but it may only be the solvent and may work safely when dry. As attractive as printing directly on the glass is, I think a different surface coating would be better, I still have to experiment. For now, I am still printing on the tape on glass. It work very well for me anyway. The real advantage of the glass is almost no leveling required and consistently flat surfaces.
do you have to spray for each build?
Yes, I clean the glass with rubbing alcohol after each build. You'll need to spray a few minutes before each build. The tackiness will wear off eventually so you don't want to spray the glass to early. I spray my glass about 5 minutes before each build start. You'll get a feel for how much is too much or too little.
Yes, I clean the glass with rubbing alcohol after each build. You'll need to spray a few minutes before each build. The tackiness will wear off eventually so you don't want to spray the glass to early. I spray my glass about 5 minutes before each build start. You'll get a feel for how much is too much or too little.
Thanks, I will definitely look into that.
I just quoted it from Big Blue Saw made of Aluminum 6061, 0.375 inches thick: about $120 for one, about $50 for 5 or more. Their web site says they can cut it from glass but it was not part of the automated quote so I assume is similar cost.

bigbluesaw.com/saw/index.php?option=com_estimator&;step=20&file=Z2N9-A0X5-rep2_Build_Plate_.dxf&material=7&thickness=0.375
thanks for sharing this!
Just curious, how much did it cost you to have the tables cut?
I got it cut by someone I know and we had spare glass so I don't have a price, but it would probably be around $100, you could get a few made at the same time. I do recommend it, was a great decision and looking back, I would pay that for it. One guy said that he could only cut the outer perimeter and would have to file out the cutouts, I didn't go for that. The waterjet cut it perfectly as you can see in the photo.
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