Loading

A Replicator 2 build plate

by kwalus, published

A Replicator 2 build plate by kwalus Mar 5, 2013

Description

My plate fractured as I was trying to desperately remove a part, so I had this one cut using a waterjet. I included the SolidWorks files in case you want to modify.

UPDATE: got a build plate waterjet from glass and it was one of two best upgrades to the Rep 2 and has had a substantial positive impact on my build experience. The other best is definitely this: thingiverse.com/thing:42250

Recent Comments

view all

Aluminum arms mad a huge difference in the top surface.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

this is the one here, some people have more success with it than others, but it is probably worth trying.

Can you direct me to the ducted fan cooler that you mentioned. I fully agree with your first two upgrade items.

More from 3D Printer Parts

view more

Makes

Liked By

view all

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag. Print Thing Tag

Instructions

Cut from glass or acylic using waterjet or otherwise. If you use glass then you will need to use tape but in my experience the tape sticks very nicely to glass.

Comments

You must be logged in to post a comment.

MarkTecWizard on Jun 3, 2013 said:

Can you direct me to the ducted fan cooler that you mentioned. I fully agree with your first two upgrade items.

kwalus on Jun 4, 2013 said:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

this is the one here, some people have more success with it than others, but it is probably worth trying.

anewsome on Apr 15, 2013 said:

I really wish I had access to a waterjet cutter too. I also upgraded my build platform to a glass plate but it's just a rectangle with no notches. I use a big binder clip from staples to keep it in place. I don't use any rubber or felt under my glass. Just flat glass on flat plastic. This is without a doubt one of the most important upgrades to my Rep2. I don't print on tape, I print directly to the glass and use aquanet to keep my prints stuck to the glass. The super shiny finish of the glass side of my prints looks so beautiful.

In my opinion, the 3 most important Rep2 upgrades, in order, are:

1.) Extruder Upgrade (get rid of delrin plunger and use ball bearing & spring)
2.) Glass Bed
3.) Ducted Fan Cooler

Since these three upgrades my prints are much more reliable and look so much more polished and professional. I highly recommend anyone with a Rep2 to do all 3.

MarkTecWizard on Jun 14, 2013 said:

Aluminum arms mad a huge difference in the top surface.

kwalus on Apr 16, 2013 said:

Thanks! what is aquanet? I am very curious because I had difficulty with
that and needed to use tape but would rather not. Also which ducted fan
cooler are you referring to as I am also interested in that?

Regardless,
I agree and believe that glass should ship standard with this. I have
not had to level my plate in weeks and the quality of the prints has
certainly improved as well as reduced my waste.

acilia on Mar 21, 2013 said:

I just quoted it from Big Blue Saw made of Aluminum 6061, 0.375 inches thick: about $120 for one, about $50 for 5 or more. Their web site says they can cut it from glass but it was not part of the automated quote so I assume is similar cost.

http://www.bigbluesaw.com/saw/...

kwalus on Mar 23, 2013 said:

thanks for sharing this!

acilia on Mar 21, 2013 said:

Just curious, how much did it cost you to have the tables cut?

kwalus on Mar 21, 2013 said:

I got it cut by someone I know and we had spare glass so I don't have a price, but it would probably be around $100, you could get a few made at the same time. I do recommend it, was a great decision and looking back, I would pay that for it. One guy said that he could only cut the outer perimeter and would have to file out the cutouts, I didn't go for that. The waterjet cut it perfectly as you can see in the photo.

Top