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Printrbot Simple 1405 "TRI ROD MOD" with or without XL tower upgrade (first 1405 XL tower)

by threefer, published

Printrbot Simple 1405 "TRI ROD MOD" with or without XL tower upgrade (first 1405 XL tower) by threefer Dec 3, 2014
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Summary

This mod adds a third linear rod in both the Y and Z axes. The third rod greatly reduces the amount of twisting that can occur, especially with an extended Y mod installed. This mod is based off of Jon Lawrence's 300mm no sag mod. It also includes modifications to a couple of other's works which I will list in the remixed from area.

UPDATE (12/13/2014): After printing out the model for the "TRI_ROD_MOD_TOP1_XL", I found out it didn't fit because the models for the XL wood parts were not correct. I have measured my actual wooden XL parts and have redesigned this part to now fit correctly. I also beefed it up a bit.

UPDATE(2/13/2015): I uploaded a new step file with just the parts for the non XL version. I also have separate step files for the 2 biggest parts. I verified that these can be imported with FreeCad.

P.S. I will try and work out a basic hardware list sometime soon.

P.P.S. I am also working on another version of this mod that will be integrated into the "JONbot". Nothing from this version will be compatible. The XL tower parts will also be integrated and are printed, no wood parts will be used at all.

UPDATE (FEB/15/2015): I have modified all of the big parts to be printable on a 100 x 100 print area. There is a new STEP file with all of the 100x100 printable parts as well as STL files of each.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QpEauZWP_l4

Instructions

I'l eventually add something here, just wanted to get the files up in case anyone wants to experiment. If anyone wants to mod any of this I have included a step file (.stp) that has all parts including models of the wooden parts including the first 1405 XL tower along with models of a beefed up "aluminum" extruder and Ubis hotend. I also have a parametric file (.x_t) with the same models.

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Good Job.. you really went all the way with those crazy triarms?

I really need to get back to work on this printer, I had a lot more things I was working on but kind of got pushed aside for other projects. I had almost finished modeling a printed version of the tower and some more mods to bring the X bearings out further to support the bed better. I also had a triple extruder I was working on, 2 bowden and one direct drive so that you could still use flexible filament. Maybe one day I will finish and post all the other mods here.

I have completed the mechanical upgrade, but am struggling making it work with my existing firmware: the y-axis is sluggish on its acceleration with the new M211 settings. Did you need to upgrade your own 1405 firmware to be able to handle the larger build area?

Threefer, any additional mod prototypes/ideas would be appreciated. I finished printing out the parts last night on my 1405 using the 100x100 stp file. It was really helpful having them packed in a single CAD file. Today I'm trying to figure out how to mount a 12x12 1/8in aluminum build plate. Ideally I'd like to expand the support base and use three 8mm rods with the GT2 pulley in the center. I haven't figured how to print all the pieces I would need using my current 100x100 build area.

(whisper) I believe!

Any chance of a dual extruder upload? I tried to do so myself but the force was weak in me. I was thinking mirror the portion from just passed the sensors so as to have 4 fans an nit lose any x as I use 200 in the Y and wouldn't lose any thing since I'm setup for 300.

Just finished putting this together. Still waiting on a few parts but it looks great so far! Well done! I'll upload my make soon enough

I seem to have slippage in the Y axis, any recommendations? I already set my SPM to 160 from 80 it seems to skip forward around the 15-20th layer.

I don't know why it would only skip when it gets to a certain layer, maybe your Z rods are misaligned and the YZ carriage is binding as it gets higher?? When I went to double precision I had to cut a solder bridge to change the steps/rev on the printrboard to increase my speed. I don't remember exactly as it was a long time ago but there was a tutorial somewhere on a forum I followed.

I put the belt on wrong for the Y Axis, I totally forgot to edit my question. Thanks foe the reply.
Any chance you know of a double extruder mod that works with this, and hows you new mods going?

I put the belt on wrong for the Y Axis, I totally forgot to edit my question. Thanks foe the reply.
Any chance you know of a double extruder mod that works with this, and hows you new mods going?

Great design! I'm about to get started on this. Where would you reccomend buying the longer 8mm rods?

I get just about everything from Amazon.com. Here is the link to the rods I got: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045DWA9C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks! One more thing, how would you make the HBP? aluminum, then hot plate, then acrylic with buildtak?

May 22, 2015 - Modified May 22, 2015
threefer - in reply to loganj13

I currently have a silicone heated bed which is bonded to the bottom of a 1/8 inch aluminum plate. I also have cardboard bonded to the bottom of the silicone heater then covered with gorilla duct tape. I have been using stick glue on top of the aluminum. I will probably try out the buildtak eventually, it looks like some good stuff.

http://www.amazon.com/300x300mm-Silicone-Rubber-Heater-Printer/dp/B00I50G32G/ref=sr_1_5?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1432262611&sr=1-5

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7CXMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Awesome thanks. I actually finished assembling the 1405 kit in its stock form this afternoon :). I convinced my school to get some buildtak, and I've impressed so far, but be warned you have to get the level height just right. My first print was too close and I had to remove it with a mallet. You have to have .1mm-.3mm gap between the tak and nozzle. Anyways ya I have parts shipping right now, and will be upgrading to 200^2 soon! How long do the rods need to be for 300?

Comments deleted.

By the way, I actually started off with the stock XL tower from Printrbot so it was a little easier for me to print longer parts from the get go because it brings your X axis up to 250mm I believe. If you only have 100x100 then you should probably do JonLawrence's upgrades based on 100x100 available print area, then print bigger and bigger parts as you upgrade. I have a box full of parts from older versions of upgrades. There are other ways to get big parts from a small printer (gluing,bolting,etc.) but you are going to need a pretty big print area to print my new parts.

You can go more than 300 in the X but I wouldn't try and go more than 300 in the Y. Even with 3 rods that is very far to be suspended out. They have a 300x300 silicone heat bead on amazon I picked up but haven't installed it yet. The mod I am currently working on will not be compatible with any other parts, custom or stock. It is going to be a fully printed bot based on the printed Jonbot but with the tri-rod mod built in, like the one orangefurball made posted below. I am tweaking the rod spacing so no older parts will work with the new one. The XL tower will also be printed. The X bearings will be farther apart for more stability for wider tables and there is also an optional part that will bring the front bearings out to the front of a 300mm bed. If you use the optional front part you could also have the bed riding on 3 rods and 6 bearings, you would just have to adjust the bearings to be very close to perfectly aligned with each other so the table won't bind in the X. The optional front part will also allow you to drive your X with another stepper which would run reverse to the first one and be linked by a driveshaft. I'm nearly finished designing the part but I'm waiting on some parts before I can test print anything. My Ubis failed(nichrome wire broke) so I am waiting on a new hot end.

any time frame on this printer?

I don't think I can print an accurate enough print with my printrbot the way it is. All my taller prints skew to the right in X so it's hard to know if everything is lining up properly. I found a good deal on an i3 prusa derivative that I am waiting on it to come in. Once I get the new printer I will reprint all my designed parts and rebuild the Printrbot and verify if it will work well.

Feb 24, 2015 - Modified Feb 24, 2015

Also: I am going to buy a 1405 asap, but that won't be until April or May, so I'm trying to prepare myself for upgrading it. I really like jon lawrence's upgrades, but am a bit confused/unsure about what I need. What did you do? I am hoping to make the print bed way bigger, preferably 400mmx400mm. Is this possible or is it unrealistic? If unrealistic, how is 300mm each way? I'd prefer 400mm but am definitely willing to settle for 300 each way :). I want to add a heated build plate as well, and since I'm guessing its not too easy to find a 12x12in heated build plate, could I use 4-6x6 HBPs? Thanks

On my Printrbot simple I currently have 350 in X and 300 in Y. I wouldn't go over 300 in Y with this design. I have a 12" x 12" silicone head pad bonded under my aluminum bed.

http://www.amazon.com/300x300mm-Silicone-Rubber-Heater-Printer/dp/B00I50G32G/ref=sr_1_5?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1432262611&sr=1-5

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7CXMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I can't wait to see it.

Comments deleted.

How much extra stability does the third rod add? Also, I am planning on doing jon's x and y extensions, as well as the double precision mods for both axi. Is it that this is not compatible with those but you are working on a version that is? Thanks

The third rod seems to help a lot. The new version I have modeled up will have different spacing on the tri-rods, that is the only reason the files that are now released will not work with my newer version. When Printrbot changed the spacing between the 2 original Z rods I just moved the closest rod further out to makeup for the difference, this makes the spacing between the rods in the 3 rod version uneven and that just bothered me so I evened everything out. I've been so busy with other things lately I haven't had time to mess with this project. I have another printer that I bought coming in and i'm going to verify this design on the new printer because my prints skew too much on my Printrbot for me to be able to trust that my design will work smoothly.

I used those same copper heatsinks and they actually made my motor run hotter. The magnets inside the motor become attracted to the copper heatsinks. Use the aluminum heat sink it'll run cooler.

Threefer,

I mashed up a Jonbot version. If it is similar to what you were thinking, this should take some load off of you.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:693210

"TRI ROD MOD" For the Printrbot Simple 1405 "Jonbot"
Feb 13, 2015 - Modified Feb 13, 2015

I'd like to remix this to fit into 100x100x100, but FreeCAD can't read the .stp file.

Can someone please verify whether that .stp file is valid and tell me how to read it, preferably on a Linux machine, or upload a valid .stp file please?

Feb 10, 2015 - Modified Feb 11, 2015

Hi,
Planning to build this.

A few questions:

  1. What hardware do I need? I assume
    a) 3 bits of 8mm rod in the right lengths for each of the Y and Z axes. What are those lengths?
    b) 2 LM8UU bearings for each of those rods.
    c) 2 GT belts of the right lengths.
    d) 390mm of 1/4" acme threaded rod
    e) Some nuts and bolts to hold the whole thing together.
  2. How can I print this with my stock 1405 Simple? Some of the parts are over 100mm in length & width,
  3. Can this be made out of PLA?
  4. I can't read the .STP file. Is it corrupt?

If someone can give me some ballpark figures for the part sizes, I'm happy to put together a complete Bill of Materials as I build mine.

Frank

Did you ever figure it out?

I haven't done it yet. I'm working on the X upgrade first. But answering my own questions...

  1. Depends on what options you go for. If you want double-precision Y-axis, you'll also need two 608ZZ bearings to use as belt pulleys. 8mm rod length could probably be anything up to 500mm, but 400mm is more realistic, and would give you over 200mm reach. Also a new bed that is wide enough. If you don't make the X axis wider, the whole thing would be a bit unstable.
  2. Threefer3 redid the files to be 100x100. :)
  3. Yes
  4. Threefer3 re-uploaded a valid .STP.

This guy has a well written tut, I may just follow his guide. look into it and please tell me your thoughts. Im new to this and awaiting my 1405, using this time to find the best mods.

Awesome, I was wondering when the files were gonna be posted but I had stopped stalking your youtube video over the holidays.

Couple questions..
Could you make a y/z plate that works for the smaller Z rod spacing of the 1400 / 1401 maker edition?
Do you get any wobbling of your build plate when switching directions in X quickly? I have a 12" x 12" plate and I get a lot of wobbles...

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