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Nutcracker

by MakerBot, published

Nutcracker by MakerBot Dec 6, 2014

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29281Views 11293Downloads Found in Decor

Summary

Its not surprising that the nutcracker is a holiday staple collected by people near and far, young and old. Folklore contends nutcrackers were given to families as gifts to bring them good luck and protect their homes. The MakerBot Nutcracker was designed with the classic in mind but with an updated twist - this one you can make!

This beautifully designed multi-part print is suitable for any of the MakerBot printers. Parts snap-fit together and you can let your imagination run wild with color, but note, this assembly is not recommended for novices.

Instructions

INSTRUCTIONS

Print pieces in these colors, or swap in your own palette. We advise keeping pieces in these color groupings for your first Nutcracker to make assembly easier.

NOTE: Pieces labeled with 30infill should be printed at 30% infill for strength

True Red: Arms, Back_Lever30infill, Body_Bottom, Body_Top
True White: Gloves, Hair, Mustache, Eyes, Legs
True Blue: Iris_Clips_Rod
True Black: Belt, Boots_Bottom_30infill, Boots_Top, Hat, Shoulder_Buttons
True Yellow: Belt Buckle, Boot Band, Buttons, Hat Straps, Shoulder Pads, Hat Decorations
Peach: Ears, Head_30infill, Jaw_30infill

ASSEMBLY

It is helpful to have tweezers and a mallet on hand to aid with assembly. Most pieces will snap together without glue.

• Start with Boots Bottom facing you. Attach Boot Band to top of Boots Bottom with recessed piece of Boot Band facing up. Place Boots (top) over Boot Band.
• Secure Boots Top with Legs. Knees should be bent forward slightly. Attach Body Bottom recessed side down to Legs. Insert (2) Buttons into Body Bottom.
• Attach Belt to Body Bottom with nub facing forward-right. Attach Belt Buckle to nub. Attach Body Top to Belt. Insert (6) Buttons into Body Top.
• Attach Head to Body Top.
• Attach R Arm to R Shoulder Pad and L Arm to L Shoulder Pad. Insert (2) Shoulder buttons into tops of Shoulder Pads. Attach R Glove to R Arm and L Glove to L Arm. Insert (8) Buttons into front and back of R Glove and L Glove. Attach R Shoulder Pad to Body Top. Attach L Shoulder Pad to Body Top.
• Attach Jaw (serrated groove facing up) to Back Lever (handle pointing down).
• Insert Jaw into Head, then insert Rod through Jaw and Head.
• Attach R Ear and L Ear to Head. Attach Mustache to Head. Attach Hair to Head. Attach Irises into Eyes and Eyes into Head.
• Attach Hat to Head with Clips.
• Insert Hat Decorations into Hat. Insert Belt Back into Back Lever. Insert Hat Straps into Jaw and Head.
• Attach Head to Body with longest Clip

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I am guessing the bazillion faces on some of the parts like the body top/bottom & arms etc. was done to obtain a certain look?
Takes forever to print tho, ugh.

This oldie but goodie was just featured on our Best of 3D Printing Holiday blog over at 3D Start Point: http://3dstartpoint.com/best-of-holiday-3d-prints-for-christmas-and-hanukkah/

Nov 18, 2016 - Modified Nov 18, 2016

I am new to 3d printing, and I am trying to print this nutcracker, but the first part that I am trying to make is the bootsbottom file, and I cannot get the Print Studio software to add any infill to the part. I have tried increasing the infill all the way to 100%, but it is still hollow, so it is soft and weak after printing. The file opens with Autodesk Meshmixer, then I have to send it to Autodesk Print Studio for use with a dremel 3d20 printer. any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

Nov 28, 2016 - Modified Nov 28, 2016
Dat_Asian_Kid - in reply to dkduster70

i am not familiar with Print Studio either i would recommend a different slicer program like Cura or Slic3r to use and Cura is free

Thanks for the recommendation. I was able to figure it out. I needed to select make solid in meshmixer, then the infill worked properly.

I am not familiar with the Print Studio software. Is it a slicer? Since you are just starting, it might help to use Cura of Slic3r instead.

Thanks for the recommendation. I was able to figure it out. I needed to select make solid in meshmixer, then the infill worked properly.

A question. Since this is CC-NC licensed how is it that I can order a print of it? Who receives the order and prints the parts?

NC means you can't print it to sell. It doesn't mean you can't pay someone to print it for you.

So is not the person/company doing the printing "selling" it to me? As a violation? And if so why can't I print it for somebody else and be paid for my time and materials? Not trying to be obtuse. Seems inconsistent to me.

The difference is in one case, you take the design to someone to be printed. They can charge for material and labor. It is the customer who chose the design. In the other case, someone who prints the design ahead of time with no customer request for it is where it becomes commercial.

So if I put several suggested examples of printable things up on a page (like oh say Thingiverse), but each one is built to order and likely customized in some way (color?) by the client then that is legit? Seems like splitting hairs to me. The key component being "on demand". Hmm...

No, it is not on demand, but who makes the request. In your example, you are advertising the product which moves it into the commercial area. You can advertise the fact that you can do the printing, but it is the customer that has to bring you the model.

The print hubs are saying, "I can print an STL file you send me." In your example, they are saying, "here are some files that I have that I can print for you." It is a subtle difference, but an important one.

I am replying via my phone so I may not be as clear as I need to be.

Very nice!! thanks. Printed one, and everything just click together.
Thanks a lot!

First, incredible work! I've printed two now, one in red and one in blue, and they are both fantastic.

I'm curious, much of this, particularly the hat, the surface appears to have a crinkled look versus the usual 3d printed lines from the edges of the filament. How did you create this nice finish?

This is the coolest thing to come off of my printer in four years.

You mention rod that goes through the head and cracker piece. Did I miss the stl file for this piece? Can you tell me where it is?

Great design!!!

It is the long, tall piece in the irisandclips.stl file.

Comments deleted.

Any suggestions on how to get the parts to snap together without the tabs breaking? Specifically the ones at the end of the legs that go into the body. I have had two sets of legs where one of the two tabs on the two connectors would break when trying to assemble. I think one of them on the boot also broke, but it is not as obvious as the legs did.

This tends to happen with pins like this when they are vertically oriented in printing. For these type of pins, you really want to print them horizontally so that the layers add strength to the pin, instead of vertically, where the layers give it plenty of places to break.

Unfortunately, with this model, most of the pieces are designed to print with the pins pointing up. Either you can use glue and just ignore the broken pins, or rotate everything 90 degrees and print with supports.

I started using eSun's PLA Pro filament. It has a lot more flexibility and after switching, didn't break any more pins.

I squirted a bit of hot glue between the tabs on my parts.

Comments deleted.

I used white lithium grease and it seemed to help... this took me a while to figure out. At the beginning I broke the pegs on the legs and ended up drilling a hole in the boots and legs and then gluing in a dowel rod. It worked really well, but was a pain

you might try heating the tabs with a hair dryer to get them more pliable.

Dec 19, 2014 - Modified Dec 19, 2014

Great design.

I made this with a royal purple coat. It looks great. I haven't assembled it as I made it as a Christmas gift for my sister who collects Nutcrakers. I'll let her assemble it. Sorry, no pictures.

I'm using a MakerBot Replicator 2x and I did find one item I had problems with printing. The HAT STRAPS kept breaking free of the build plate when they were almost done, so I added rafts. Still the same problem. I then increased the extruder temp to 232deg and the plate temp to 112 deg with the rafts on and that worked fine. No need for supports.

BTW, i'm working with ABS.

These settings worked for me on this item. All other items were printed at normal extruder temp 230deg and plate temp at 110deg with no rafts and no supports.

I can't get the hat straps to print, they get to about 70% then fall over, tried with a raft as well (replicator 2x)
Any ideas?

Im having problem with the hat straps as well, anyone find a solution?

19 hours ago - Modified 19 hours ago
TTB_Studios - in reply to cleaton1

Helper discs on the corners...I use them on so many prints...saves me from MUCH frustration!
Also, I run my heated bed @90 degrees C and print primarily ABS with great results. Also, ABS juice is a must!

Dec 19, 2014 - Modified Dec 19, 2014
Engineer925 - in reply to JessKa_F

Try increasing your extruder and plate temperatures. I had to increase mine slightly to get it to stick better to the build plate.
extruder to 232 deg and build plate to 112 deg. still using rafts. No supports.

See my full comment posted just a few mins ago.

I upgraded the software on the makerbot, cleaned everything, levelled the bed, added rafts, and it finally printed. Had a similar issue with the moustache as well.

Try supports maybe? The new Desktop by Makerbot (3.4.1) along with the latest Firmware is great. The raft and supports are easily removable.

What is the height of the completed nutcracker? Looks great!

could someone upload the g-code for the hat (sliced at .1 mm. I can't seem to get it to slice it with cura or repetier)

someone else's G code won't help you out unless your machines are identical. That's about as likely to happen as two people having the same DNA. run the model through Netfabb web or free edition and clean it up or try another slicer like slic3r or Craftware.

thank you for replying, i will try your suggestions.

Awesome! Everything prints great!

I'm using S3D for slicing and have had no issues slicing and printing the hat.

The only problem that I've had so far is that the left arm did not sit perfectly flat on the bed which resulted in a slight issue in S3D. I got around this by splitting the arms into two separate STL files and rotating the left arm slightly.

Almost finished with the model, looking absolutely fantastic so far.

Steve

the hat does not seem to print. slices fine but comes back with 0 layers

That looks Awesome!!!

Does it really crack nuts? Or is it just a decoration piece?

It cracks nuts too :) Just be sure to increase the infill on the mouth parts (lever and face), otherwise, the pieces will break.

I was going to ask that too, but i think that if it's a working model, then PLA should be hard enough.. Or Polycarbonate def..

Dec 15, 2014 - Modified Dec 15, 2014
c60 - in reply to aaronR

I'm curious too,
This worked great for me, although it needs a longer screw to get small nuts cracked

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:274403

Nutcracker
by RenatoT
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