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Voronoi lamp

by Markellov, published

Voronoi lamp by Markellov Dec 9, 2014

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180405Views 36535Downloads Found in Household

Summary

Download and print. :-)
I recommend 30 cm. in height.
High detailed version: http://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/house/decor/voronoi-lamp

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hello,
I'm doing a conference and I have a stand at Lille's MakerFaire and I want to use your model in a powerpoint and print an exemple on my stand can I make it please

Is the inside hollow so you can put a light in? If so, what type and size of light?

Will this work with an LED tea light? I'd love to be able to do something without wires and I've been itching to print a really good lamp.

What type of light bulb should be used?

Note that due to interior enclosed voids, this model cannot be used as a lamp if you are using a powder-bed printer - the enclosed powder will block the light.

Makes a nice vase though!

What if you print it with "Spiralize Contour" (Cura) so it inly prints the shell ? :)

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Im running a system with a 3.7ghz i7 with 16gb ram, and my pc has been compiling this for a little over 10hrs so far, is it supposed to take this long, how long did it take to compile for someone else. Im using the XYZ ware software that came with my Di Vinci 1.0 AIO printer

I'm honestly not too surprised. XYZ's software is known to be terrible. This model took a little over a minute to compile (it's actually called slicing, by the way) on my 2010 Macbook Pro with Simplify3D. I'd recommend looking into flashing your Da Vinci with Repetier firmware.

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Just curious. What 3d software did you use?

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any recommended parameters to make the PLA print transparent? no filling at all maybe?

No problem with cura and reptier host. Printed very slow. Nice design.

Apr 9, 2015 - Modified Apr 9, 2015

I have tried this using Slic3r and Cura with no luck. When I try to export the gcode, both freeze up. This file is killing my computer! i7 3.4 gHz, 16 Gb RAM, NVidia Quaddro GPU so not sure why this file is causing me so many problems.

if you put it in netfabb and export it as an stl then put it in slc3r it works fine

Are you using the Slic3r "avoid crossing perimeters" setting, if so, turn that off. I had similar issues where I brought my machine to it's knees trying to slice the terminator skull but simpler models sliced fine. That's my best guess for you offhand without more info on your slicer settings.

So i have now printed about 30 of these for various friends and family members... I print them at .25 layer height, 0% infill 2 perimiters with a .4mm nozzle and have never had a single issue in pla or abs :)

Apr 8, 2015 - Modified Apr 8, 2015
floodedcodeboy - in reply to digitydogs

Sorry a few questions if I may.. What orientation are you printing, ie Where does the opening (base) sit on your print bed? Oh and if I may, what height are you getting please?

They said about 30 cm. was a good height... I hope that helps!

I print with the opening for the light on the print bed, so i am printing them standing up. I print them at a variety of sizes 25%,50%,75%, and 100% of file size. If i remember correctly they are about 5 inches tall when printed at 100% size. I'm not sure why you are having problems on a replicator 2 as i print mine on both a Prusa i3 and a mini rostock i built from scratch

i'm trying to print it 30cm in height... hence i'm lying it down on it's side... i have to watch it when it prints the top inner wall and support those with a small box

This should print nice in PetG.
It bridges nice.

I tried this in PetG. And yes the PetG did bridge nicely -- surprisingly so, as this was the first time I had used it. It also adhered perfectly. Held well through out the print, and came off with ease when done.

OTOH, although it was printed at the midpoint of the manufacturers and printers specs, the nozzle accumulated a lot of carbonized material. Some of which became embedded in the print, though most was on the outside where it could be removed with pick and forceps. Fortunately, there were no problems with clogging of the nozzle. There is an odd shine to PetG that is not present on the preprinted filament -- I will try spraying it with a clear matte finish. And PetG is somewhat fuzzy with threads, though most of these were internal to the print, and could be safely ignored.

I will use a "cobb" type 15 LED "bulb" to light this lamp. It is available at www.aaltronics.com, cat # LED-615WW. It runs bright enough with one 9V battery, and has the controlling electronics built in, so fire is rather unlikely. It does need an external switch. I have an RPi in that area, so will probably use a capacitance switch to turn the lamp on/off. It will provide enough light so that I will not kill myself when I get up in the middle of the night, but is not suitable for reading.

Disapointed in some of the PetG characteristics, but all in all I am happy I printed this

Comments deleted.

kinda hard to print this at 30 cm without having issues with the print and the center being square. over hang and all that.
try printing it with it's head down and the hole up, upside down? :)

i've had 2 unsuccessful attempts at printing this lamp on a replicator2, i asked markelov for a version with a cylinder on the inside but no word from him, as this would facilitate printing on it's side at 27cm tall (on a rep2)

You should absolutely be printing it "upside down" so there's no need for support material at all.

"System out of memory" while slicing...
Looks like I need some more ram! 8)

Jan 30, 2015 - Modified Feb 12, 2015

20hours into my print only another 40hours to go - (printing on its side... ) i'm worried that the roof of the inside cavity is going to cave in... Makellov have you actually printed one? Would you pretty please make one with a cylinder cavity rather than the square cavity.
Thanks!!

edit : the cavity would cave in, duh.

How big a gap for the lightbulb is at the bottom? I'm wondering if I can scale it down to 200mm and still fit a bulb in.

Use LEDs. You could use 2 yellow and one red, and flicker the three with various random brightnesses. Just have them each set their brightness randomly between half and full, with something like an arduino (aka a random value on a PWM pin between 125 and 255) and you will end up with a very realistic candle flame effect... zero heat... and far lower costs to run the light.

Jan 14, 2015 - Modified Jan 21, 2015

"VoroFrag" plugin for 3ds Max.

Nice ! What do you use to make the 3D voronoi's ? Cheers

Great design! Can anybody give any suggestions as to what sort of infill (0%, 5%, 10%, 100%??) to use for this print? I'm using the makerbot 2. Thanks in advance.

Very very nice, it's terrific, great job !

Hi this is lovely... Has anyone made it? What would you light it with seeing as there is no vent in the top it might get hot...

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