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Ultimaker Z axis adjuster 4 bed leveling

by LukasQ, published

Ultimaker Z axis adjuster 4 bed leveling by LukasQ Mar 29, 2013
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4130Views 736Downloads Found in 3D Printer Parts

Summary

To adjust the bed level better

Instructions

Print one top and one bottom. (you may want to mirror Z for printimg)

  • Dismount the top Z endstop
  • mount the top with 2 M3x16 screws and 2 M3 nuts from the inside
  • mount the bottom with 2 M3x20 screws from the outside (through the frame) on the switch.
  • take one M3x30mm screw and any spring (eg. from a pencil) and put the top and bottom with the spring and an other nut together.

Adjust the Z-Level by turning the vertical screw cw or ccw.

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Use the spare feeder knurled head screw and extend it with an distance bolt.

Hey guys, I REALLY like this upgrade, it's simple, clean, and easy. I found a pen spring that worked great, I think some springs are probably smaller than others, but mine was perfect. If yours isn't large enough try moving the top piece closer, you will generally only need to move your limit switch up and down by 2 mm at most.

A lot of the other z axis adjusters out there are large and take up space. Having a solution that has a nob for adjustment would be nice but since you need to use a hex wrench for leveling the bed anyways it's no problem.

I give this a 5/5.

Worked great. Getting in installed was a pain because they positioned the switch behind the z axis rod. < UM's fault

I found a spring from a 12v lighter plug worked perfect and my M3 is 30mm I don't see why you need more range than that unless you changing your setup ALLOT. I never move my z stop more than 1-2 mm

+1 on printing Z-Lvl_btm.stl upside down... less overhang. I didn't think about it till afterwards but it still printed fine

This is very simple, and it works great. I can recommend printing Z-Lvl_btm.stl upside down.

A pen spring doesn't provide enough force to resist the friction of the screw thread.

I think either your spring is too tight around the screw, so you need a bigger spring, or you tightened the bolts holding the end stop too much....

I'm not the person with these problems, so everything is fine for me.
Used a Spring from an old Socket-A CPU-Cooler.

Of the different z-axis adjusters I've seen. I think I like this on the best in terms of its simplicity. The downside I see is some loss of the full range of up/down movement. I was wondering if you could make a version of this for an M4 adjusting screw.

Couldn't you just get a longer m3? They have some up to 60+ mm long

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