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Customizable Cable Tie

by jetty, published

Customizable Cable Tie by jetty Mar 8, 2013

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Description

MakerBot Customizer Challenge Runner-Up !

A Cable Tie that works and can do the heavy lifting ! Can be customized for various purposes including a hole for a Screw and a Release Tab.

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"There will come a day when the people will be able to produce their own cable ties, at the power of their own machinery; and in this day is when we are liberated from the manufacturing tyrants of this country"

-Thomas Jefferson

I went to 248C because at 245C I wasn't getting good adhesion between layers (it was cool in the room). Anyway, thanks for the deprime tip. Learning deprime was on my to-do list, just after upgrading to Sailfish.

It's important for ABS and PLA, but for Nylon it's imperative. Mainly cause Nylon dribbles more from the extruder. If it's not depriming correctly, then you'll get much more material in that location. Also, keep the temperature at 240C until you have it sorted, cos 248C will also cause more material to ooze out.

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Instructions

Print with 100% fill, 0.27mm Layer Height and 0 Shells.

Recommended materials to print with, ABS and Taulman3D 618 Nylon.

ABS: Should be considered "Single Careful Use", i.e. clamp large items where the bend of the cable tie does not exceed the strength of the material.

618 Nylon: Is the best choice of material, and has similar performance to commercially made cable ties, as they are also made from Nylon. Maximum length cable tie prints well on a Rep 1 with 3M Blue Masking Tape on top of Kapton @ 120mm/s, 240C / 55C with zero warping / lifting.

PLA: Will work, but only for light things as it's fairly brittle.

Comments

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hxtasy on Jul 8, 2013 said:

"There will come a day when the people will be able to produce their own cable ties, at the power of their own machinery; and in this day is when we are liberated from the manufacturing tyrants of this country"

-Thomas Jefferson

david49152 on Apr 8, 2013 said:

Grrr... I can't get this to print correctly. My last remaining problem right now is that the latch is getting fused with the rest of the head and doesn't work (or even move). It is fused enough that I can't just cut it free with a razor blade. I'm using a Rep2, RepG, 240-248C, suggested print settings, varied filament diameter from 1.76 to 1.81 mm (1.77 seems to be the optimal setting), and I am printing Cable_Tie1.stl. Oh, and I am printing on plywood covered in diluted wood glue-- seems to stick good. Ideas?

jetty on Apr 8, 2013 said:

What material? Have you tuned deprime?

BookaDooka on Mar 15, 2013 said:

i gotta upgrade so i can use nylon. i printed with abs and it worked, but just like in the description, it didn't handle any force. what a great idea to make printable zip-ties. thanks.

elgambitero on Mar 11, 2013 said:

Siiiiiiick!!! Dat Replicator hanging from the tie!!!!

boardworks on Mar 10, 2013 said:

Also, did you print with those settings using MakerWare or RepG? Since it's jetty, I'm assuming RepG but just wanted to make sure :)

jetty on Mar 10, 2013 said:

RepG, but those are pretty standard settings, i.e. 0.27mm layer height. Fill and shells should be easily tunable in Makerware, I'd expect it to work.

boardworks on Mar 10, 2013 said:

Has anyone tried printing these using the 618 Nylon filament on a Rep 2? I am very anxious to try it out on my Rep 2, but would love to know if someone else has tried it already :)

thecrazy on Mar 10, 2013 said:

that is a great idea!

latigerlilly on Mar 10, 2013 said:

Ha! Now, those home made Printrbots that use a rat's nest of wires and cable ties can increase the 3d printed parts count!

Printed_Solid on Mar 9, 2013 said:

Nice! Its always encouraging to see people designing things that can actually be useful. Its always frustrating to make a trip to the hardware store when you realize you're short a zip tie or two.

I had read that nylon really doesn't do well on the blue masking tape and have been holding off on using mine until I get around to ordering a Garolite plate.

Do you think you get zero warping/lifting with nylon because the part is small in the z-direction or do you always use nylon with blue masking tape? Also, build plate at room temp or heated?

jetty on Mar 10, 2013 said:

Nylon generally doesn't do too well on 3M Blue Tape, but for small parts it will work. This works on it primarily because the tape part is long and thin. The head of the tie will also stick at the default sizes. However if you customize it to a really wide head, then you'll need garolite or nylatron for the head (the tape part will still stick). You'll get 2 prints of out of the blue tape as it's actually the wax in the blue tape it sticks to. I put my blue tape directly on the Kapton, and used 55C for the HBP temp.

allenZ on Mar 9, 2013 said:

is there any legal issue here? thought the cable tie design patent still in effect.

pleppik on Mar 9, 2013 said:

The basic cable tie was invented in the 1950's. The patents have long since expired.

jetty on Mar 8, 2013 said:

>tbuser on 9:09 pm said:
>Is that Replicator hanging inside what I think it's hanging inside?

Looks like a jail :-), it's gym. More to the point, it's being held up by the cable ties in this thing. 3 cables ties, one around the replicator and 2 more in a chain, so it's the all weight is being held by a single cable tie (i.e. not shared between the 3)

tbuser on Mar 9, 2013 said:

Haha when I first saw it I almost thought it was some kind of giant Rostock frame

tbuser on Mar 8, 2013 said:

Is that Replicator hanging inside what I think it's hanging inside?

aubenc on Mar 8, 2013 said:

That's what I call a wild test! Awesome!!

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