NOMOON Speaker Generator

by nothinglabs, published

NOMOON Speaker Generator by nothinglabs Dec 15, 2014
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NOMOON is a parametric spherical 3d-printed speaker generator created in OpenSCAD.

For a demo video of NOMOON see:

Some additional notes are on working with NOMOON are at http://nothinglabs.blogspot.com/2014/12/project-nomoon-parametric-spherical.html.

It is loosely based on my previous OpenScad speaker generator - Speakergen http://nothinglabs.blogspot.com/2014/09/speakergen-parametric-3d-printed.html.

NOMOON can create spherical speaker enclosures of any volume. You can configure things like wall thickness, bass port dimensions, number of screw holes, etc.

NOMOON also includes a speaker stand. If your speakers tend to rotate forward in the stands - strategic application of a rubber band can solve this.


Notes on picking a speaker driver are at: http://nothinglabs.blogspot.com/2014/12/project-nomoon-parametric-spherical.html.

NE65W.stl is a pre-made file for use with the Vifa NE-65w driver (as pictured in the video).

You can use a tool like this to determine optimal enclosure / port-size for a given driver:

Printing Tips

Use a raft when printing this model!

It might seem counter-intuitive that you can print a sphere without supports. The trick is to include a small flat area on the bottom - which the bass port conveniently provides. If you're not using a bass port - NOMOON will automatically include a flat disk on the bottom of the sphere to make it printable.

The lower parts of the sphere do show some effects from "curling" - and looks a little gnarly on close inspection. Fortunately - this is the least visible part of the model. An enclosed / heated build chamber would probably help with this.

I've been printing my speakers using 3 shells at 10% infill at 200 micron layer height (using silver PLA). They sound good to me - but audiophiles might want to increase thickness / infill.

Stuff your speaker with polyfill (from the fabric store) to improve sound quality.

Design Tips

I've found holes on 3d prints tend to come out a little smaller than intended - and some speakers need holes a bit larger than their spec sheets indicate. My advice is to make the speaker mounting hole as large as practical - as opposed to as small as practical.

Some speakers have terminals that get in the way of fitting in a round hole. A "makeTerminalNotch" option / associated parameters are provided in the script to account for this. Other option is to break out the file / Dremel.

By default - two separate wire holes are generated - one on top (for hanging) and another at the rear of the sphere (if using the stand). You will likely need to drill out the hole a bit to make your speaker wire fit. I don't think the second small hole impacts acoustic quality that much (just set its diameter to zero to not render it).

Note - if you're using a heavier speaker driver and want to hang it - the weight of the driver will cause the entire speaker to tip forward. Adding some kind of counter balance inside the speaker can address this. Other option is to try moving the wire hole a bit towards the "front" to compensate (you can do this in the script).

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What did you use for amplifying the speakers? or Do these speakers already come pre-amped?

What temperature did you use? My silver PLA seems to be overhanging without supports.

I print at 230c. I definitely get a little overhanging towards the bottom of the sphere - but things generally work out OK.

I have found that increasing to 300 micron layer height can surprisingly help with overhangs / curling.


I printed one with Grey ABS instead at 230c and at 0.3 mm layer height. I still got the overhangs at the base but it came out okay on top. Can I make a suggestion and attach small supports to the base that can be easily broken off to help with the problem so users won't have to select support material and end up spending a lot of time cleaning support material on the inside. Thanks

Jan 15, 2015 - Modified Jan 15, 2015

Note that for certain drivers you may get better results without a port, and stuffing the box with acoustic stuffing. (Pillow stuffing works well). This makes an "acoustic suspension" type sealed box which has a more gradual F3 roll off than the ported box does. You can get deeper bass with a given driver with a ported enclosure, but the box must be larger and the bass may be "boomy" rather than "tight". Drivers with a lower QT work better in ported boxes, those with larger QT's are good candidates for sealed boxes.

Anyway of turning it into a portable Bluetooth speaker ?

Yes - I've done a few of these. Check ebay / dealexteme for things like "bluetooth audio receiver" - you'll also need a small amplifier board. There are also some combo boards including amplifier. Trick is finding things small enough to fit in the speaker opening. Also - there's issue of getting mono as opposed to just right / light (combine the audio signals pre-amp - don't try bridging amplified outs - results in smoke).

Haha. That's no moon! I wish it looked more Death Star-like and less like an igloo. Still cool and this would just require aesthetic changes.

Cooool. What's the wall thickness set at?

5mm by default. Think this is reasonable for smaller speakers.