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Z-Probe bracket for NopHead Mendel90

by DanielBull, published

Z-Probe bracket for NopHead Mendel90 by DanielBull Dec 18, 2014
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License

GNU - GPL
Z-Probe bracket for NopHead Mendel90 by DanielBull is licensed under the GNU - GPL license.

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Summary

Bracket to hold a typical inductive sensor so a metal bed's Z height can be probed.

UPDATE:
Please also see my new more accurate Z-probe modification here:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1438782

Instructions

Simply print out the bracket, fit the sensor into the bracket then mount in place of belt clamp, followed by some final adjustments. No modifications to the printer or other hardware is necessary.

Printing out the bracket

The bracket is designed to be the correct size, if you print in PLA it will be perfect, but if you print in ABS you will need to increase the size slightly to allow for shrinkage. It is designed so that the bracket can be printed without supports.

Fitting the sensor

Place one of the nuts from your sensor inside the bracket by inserting in the top and rotating it until its horizontal with the help of a screwdriver or other tool (see photos). You can then screw the sensor inside the nut in the bracket (being sure not to cross-thread it) up until it reaches a depth where the bracket can be easily fitted without the sensor hitting the bed when the carriage is fully lowered (we will adjust properly later). Once you have it the correct height fit the spring washer and remaining nut on the bottom and loosely tighten.

Fitting the bracket to your X carriage

Loosen the belt tensioner and remove the existing belt clamp. Using the same bolt that held down your original belt clamp fit this bracket over the belt in the same way you would have with the original belt clamp then tighten up. There is an additional hole to secure it further back but I have found this is not necessary. Once its all in place re-tighten up your belt using the adjuster.

Final adjustment

Move your print head down until the nozzle is touching the bed then adjust the sensors height by screwing it up and down until it is roughly just over 1mm from the bed. Once its in the right place tighten up the lock nut on the bottom to secure it.

Further information

For further information please check out Thomas Sanladerers excellent video here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcGFLwj0pnA

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What is the model of sensor? How far the sensor can detect? Are you using aluminium bed with glass over it?

I'm now testing with an aluminum bed and a Buildtak, works fine with that as well.

Feb 15, 2016 - Modified Feb 15, 2016
DanielBull - in reply to fabrizziosoares

I'm personally using a PRINTinZ plate which is metal infused, apparently you can't use a thin sheet of aluminum under glass.
For more information watch Tom's video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcGFLwj0pnA

so i am having a problem with my code. when i auto home my prusa i3 10" it homes x and y perfectly and then it centers itself in the bed and then it goes doen about 5 mm and then stops. it never reaches my bed. like somewhere in my code its telling it to only go down that far. So i unplug my z endstop and run auto home again and it does the same thing.. i am at a loss do you have any ideas??

You'd be better off asking the question on a forum for the code you are using. What is it Marlin?

Hi,
i like your design. Is it possible to make a version for this sensor?
http://amzn.to/1JLTozy
It is 18 mm in diameter. I don´t know how to do this in 123dx.

Wolfgang

Is the thread really 18mm?
I think you might be better offer getting the other sensor, 18mm will make the housing quite large.

Feb 4, 2015 - Modified Feb 4, 2015

thanks for you help i found the problem
this is what i had

ifdef Z_SAFE_HOMING

#define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT (X_MAX_LENGTH/2)    // X point for Z homing when homing all axis (G28)
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT (Y_MAX_LENGTH/2)    // Y point for Z homing when homing all axis (G28)

change it to

ifdef Z_SAFE_HOMING

#define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT 0 //(X_MAX_LENGTH/2)    // X point for Z homing when homing all axis (G28)
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT 0 //(Y_MAX_LENGTH/2)    // Y point for Z homing when homing all axis (G28)

Glad you sorted it :)

DanielBull i am having a problem getting my marlin sketch running smooth i followed the Thomas Sanladerer guide .i was wondering if you would mine sending me a copy of the sketch you are using? it you dont mind it would be a great help stefan [email protected]

My current Marlin code is here:
https://github.com/NeonHorizon/Marlin

Please be aware my Marlin code is modified a LOT. I have lots of other modifications not just the Z-Probe, for example I have an E3D head as well. You would probably be better off starting with NopHeads code but you can look at my commits and see what changes I made.

ok thanks. one more question if you don't mind when connecting the z out to the resistor then to the zstop terminal on the melzi board does it go the the + on - terminal?
thank you for your time

Positive, the one on the right.

Comments deleted.

thanks a lot

DanielBull nice work on the bracket. Was just wondering what resistor pair you found worked to divide the output voltage?
stefan

Sorry I can't remember and I didn't write it down :(
It was smaller values than Thomas used though to counteract the pull up resistor.

Jan 16, 2015 - Modified Jan 16, 2015

on the extruder pcb board, what did u connect the probe to? is it nopheads design?
how did you wire it up?

Nopheads design doesn't support a proximity Z-Probe by default so you have to make some modifications. A good place to start is on the top left of the PCB are two pins labelled P. One is ground and the other goes to the spare wire on the ribbon cable which you can use to send the signal back. You can get the 12v you need from the fan output which has 12v live on the middle pin (F+) even when the fan is off.

I personally removed the two pin P connector, drilled a small hole and fitted a 3 pin connector, then added the extra orange wire shown in the link below to get the 12v on the third pin (please ignore the black wire and the white wire, these are a different modification). After adding the orange wire that gave me a connector which when viewed from the front gives 12v, GND and a pin for the probe output (please double check all this as its from memory and it may not be correct),
https://plus.google.com/photos/+DanielBull/albums/6094183840175062993/6104872371076511106?pid=6104872371076511106&oid=109352235257103413028

Then you have to use a pair of resistors to divide the probe output signal down from 12v to 5v at the other end before connecting it to the Z stop input on your controller board. Thomas explains how to do this here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcGFLwj0pnA

I found I had to change the resistor ratings quite a bit from Thomas' example due to a 10k pull up resistor on the Melzi Z stop which cannot be disabled in software. You need to pull down hard enough to disable this in your resistive divider.

Good luck :)

Awesome info thanks.. I'm fortunate that I'm running a ramps1.4 so everything Tom does works for me...I just talked with nophead/Chris about this...he just verified everything u just said...thanks bro...

Ahh yes that will definitely help!

hi

yu say that the extra hole is not needed .. can you build an version without the lid with the extra hole .. so the adapter should be smaller :-)

thanks ..

You don't need to screw it down using the hole but I would still leave the flat area there to keep the probe rigid and stable. Remember you need to measure 0.01mm accuracy so it must not flex or move about.

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