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Dodecahedron Lamp - After AK Eric

by Processaurus, published

Dodecahedron Lamp - After AK Eric by Processaurus Dec 22, 2014

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Summary

Here's a version of AK Eric's dodecahedron made into a lamp. It adds a two piece base, which, if desired, can hold a light socket inside the dodecahedron. It has a few grill designs to choose from.

Instead of the zip ties, it uses a printed clip to hold the pieces together.

PLEASE NOTE: This project involves mains wiring. If you do not know how to do it safely, get help from someone who does or take a class. You are responsible for the safety of anyone who uses something you build.

Instructions

As noted in the description, this involves mains wiring. How to do this safely is outside the scope of these instructions. If in doubt about your abilities, consult with someone who has experience in electrical wiring or take a class. Be safe, sparkies.

The other safety note is, because this is made of plastic, it will melt and create a fire hazard if an incandescent lightbulb is used. Only LED or CFL lighbulbs should be used, and this should be written permanently on the bottom of the lamp, since it could very well have more than one owner.

Parts:
small/mini sized CFL or LED lightbulb. Ideally it should have a small enough diameter to fit through the hole in the pentagon piece, so it can be replaced easily.
3/8" (9.5mm) diameter all thread nipple, ~1" long (25mm). The length should be enough to stick into the socket securely, though the hole in the "base upper.STL", and get a nut on the bottom.
1 to 2 nuts for above
light bulb socket that threads onto the 3/8" threaded nipple, as low profile as possible. No switch is better because it saves vertical space.
Lamp cord, however long you want. I used 8' (3m) because 6' lamp cords are never long enough.
Plug for lamp cord
inline switch for lamp cord.
Sheet of frosted plastic, thin. I found this at a craft store.
super glue, gel type if possible.

Tools:
Dremel/Rotary tool
Wire strippers
Screwdriver

Instructions:

Print 12x "pentagon piece V2.STL" If making it a lamp, the infill pattern you choose will be visible when the light is on.

Print 11x "twisted grill v2.STL" or whichever grill design you prefer. When placing the object in your slicer, note how the part's corner's sides are tapered to go with the pentagon piece. Decide whether you want the shiny, bed side finish to face outward, or the rough, 3D printed texture of the top. I liked the rough texture better, so printed it upside down, with the taper spreading outward. A concentric infill works well with the "twisted grill v2.STL"

Print at least 30x of the "clip V2.STL". Best to print some extras (like 8x) in case any break or don't print right. With these, the infill setting is important, a 100% concentric infill made mine come out right. Rectangular infill makes them brittle. If they have no infill, they seem too bendy with one perimeter, though if you have a smaller nozzle than me (.5mm) you may be able to make two perimeters and no infill, and make them come out strong and flexible. With the right infill setting I could use PLA and not have them break when snapping them in.

Print 1x "base top.STL" and 1x "base bottom.STL"

Glue, screw, or better, friction weld (with some straightened filament in the dremel) the corners of the 12 grill pieces to the 12 pentagon pieces. Here are two articles on friction welding, it is much stronger than glue.

http://www.fabbaloo.com/blog/2014/2/12/friction-welding-your-3d-prints
http://makezine.com/projects/make-34/skill-builder-finishing-and-post-processing-your-3d-printed-objects/

Be sure the little square slots for the clips do not get covered up. Note the taper to the grill piece corners, it should continue the taper of the pentagon piece's side. The dodecahedron won't fit together all the way if they are upside down. There should be one pentagon piece left over, with no grill. This will be the bottom, which the base snaps into.

If you want to use some frosted plastic to diffuse the light from the lightbulb, cut it into the shape of the grill, except the corners can be trimmed off. Cut 10x of them. Leave the plastic off the grill piece that will be on top of the dodecahedron, to let out any heat generated by the lighbulb. Glue them to 10x of the grills.

Assemble the dodecahedron with the clips. Start with the grill without plastic on top, work around the top and sides, but don't put the bottom piece, the one with no grill, in yet.

Wire the light socket, secure it to the threaded nipple, thread the "base upper" on the wire, and then the nut. Tighten everything together.

Glue or friction weld the "base bottom" to the "base top". The lamp wire goes through the slot in the "base bottom". It may take some pressure when glueing or welding the two together, because the wire in the slot may try to push the pieces apart.

Snap "base upper" into the last pentagon piece, that has no grill. Be gentle if you're using PLA, you can use a medium sized flathead screwdriver to gently push the hooks in, to snap into the pentagon piece, by working back from one corner.

Screw in the lightbulb. Clip this lamp with the last pentagon piece to the dodecahedron.

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Awesome derivative, nice update.

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