Loading

3dpBurner. 3D printed laser cutter/engraver

by villamany, published

3dpBurner. 3D printed laser cutter/engraver by villamany Dec 26, 2014

Contents

Use This Project

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag

Thing Statistics

112509Views 10564Downloads Found in Machine Tools

Summary

NOTE: The files contained here are for 3dpBurner first version. Check http://3dpburner.blogspot.com for the newer 3dpBurner2.

3dpBurner is an open source laser cutter/engraver.
It is created with the same RepRap concept, using 3D printed parts and some easy to find "vitamins" (not printed hadware).

I tried to do it as cheap as possible, by using cheap electronics
and a "low power" laser (a laser diode).
The X/Y working area is fully customizable and the max working object height is up to 50-60mm.

You can check http://3dpburner.blogspot.com for more details.

NOTE: It is imperative you get the apropiate protection for your eyes and prevent the toxic fumes released by the most of materials. First thing you need to buy prior to powering your laser is a pair of glasses adecuated to your laser wave lengh. The laser spot or laser reflections can hurt your eyes very easily. Avoid to use invisible diodes as IR laser diodes, they are more dangerous due you can not see when they are powered.

You can see some works here: http://3dpburner.blogspot.com/p/videos.html

Sep/17/2015: NEW VERSION UPDATE!. Added a 3dpBurner2 picture. Check the 3dpBurner2 page of the blog for more info.

Apr/27/2015: After some months and many tests, the 3dpBurner has been proved to be stable and rock solid, producing very good results, so the design is considered full finished now :)

Jun/18/2015: Laser Driver bumper is for the WalyePower model laser driver. If your WalyePower PCB board is larger you can break the unfinished cutting tab (some sellers send it with this tab).

Dec/28/2014: Added "walyePowerLaserDriveBumper.STL" and "ArduinoUNObumperPlain.STL" files.

Videos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=10mtTxxuomQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JqyotXOw7E0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v1f7wb4RKRg

Instructions

These are the recomended print settings:

Printed on .STL file position, using ABS without supports.

baseMountTypeA.STL----x2----Infill 50%
baseMountTypeB.STL----x2----Infill 50%
fanDuct.STL-----------------x1----Infill 50%
fanMount.STL---------------x1----Infill 50%
xIdler.STL--------------------x1----Infill 50%
xIdlerMount.STL------------x1----Infill 50%
xMotorMount.STL----------x1----Infill 50%
yBeltHolder.STL------------x1----Infill 50%
yIdler.STL--------------------x1----Infill 50%
yLimitHolder.STL-----------x1----Infill 50%
yMotorMount.STL----------x1----Infill 50%
xCarriageNutHolder.STL--x2----Infill 50%

xIdlerBridge.STL------------x1----Infill 90%
xMotorBridge.STL----------x1----Infill 90%
xCarriageV4.STL-----------x1---.Infill 90%

gauge50mm.STL-----------x1----Infill 20%
walyePowerLaserDriveBumper.STL---x1----Infill 20%
ArduinoUNObumperPlain.STL---x1----Infill 20%

Check the blog for full details and instructions: http://3dpburner.blogspot.com

More from Machine Tools

view more

All Apps

This App connects Thingiverse with Makeprintable, a cloud-based mesh repair service that analyzes, validates and repairs most common mesh errors that can occur when preparing a 3D design file for p...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Going the vector route with Cambam, is there a way to have multiple intensities within a file? For example, if I'm cutting cardstock and I want certain lines to cut all the way through, and certain other lines to be score lines for folding.

Finally completed wiring this thing up and tuning the laser! I will post pics asap. Still trying to figure out the software, but I wanted to make a couple observations. First of all, I'm impressed at what a fine line this thing can create! I was expecting a big fat blurry line, but no, the line can be like a very fine tipped pen. Also, everybody, take the eye protection very seriously. This laser is BRIGHT!

Hi all. Just wondering if anyone has experimented with CAM software other than CamBam. I don't really want to pay the money for the pro version and the free version doesn't seem to have the post processor support. I looked into Fusion 360 and found this thread ( http://forums.autodesk.com/t5/computer-aided-machining-cam/grbl-laser-cutter-power-settings-with-pwm/td-p/6205742 ), but it doesn't seem as easy as CamBam with the post processor that Villamany has posted. Is there a free CAM software that any of you know of similar to the CamBam experience? Thanks in advance for any input.

Oct 18, 2016 - Modified Oct 28, 2016

I have nearly completed the hardware and software. I uploaded the given GRBL and uploaded the settings. For the 2500mw laser I have ( https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2500mW-2-5W-Blue-Light-Laser-Module-Parts-with-Holder-Heat-sink-for-Mini-Laser-Engraving/32437247036.html ), which has a built in constant current driver, I have made a custom driver with a logic mosfet (FQP30N06L, datasheet: http://cdn.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Components/General/FQP30N06L.pdf ) with the schematics: https://arduinodiy.files.wordpress.com/2012/05/fet.jpg. When engraving a greyscale picture it gives mostly the same light intensity between 90-255 and after 90 down to 0, it begins to dimming.
My question is, am I doing something wrong about the PWM values or is it normal?

EDIT: I have changed the pulldown resistor to 1K and somehow it is OK now.

I have some problems with resolution. In theori I have 20016=3200 steps/rev. With 20 teeth T2 pully that makes 3200/202=80 steps/mm.
That is also the normal number for GRBL where I have the following:
$100=80.000 (x, step/mm)
$101=80.000 (y, step/mm)

But printing on some anodised aluminium it seems to make a step like pattern with 10-11 steps/mm
In theory there would be 80 steps/mm.

Any idea to what the course is for the low'ish quality

Picures:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/10412277/box.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/10412277/text.jpg

Last but not least. A GREAT thank you to Villamany for job well done.

/Ole, Denmark

Just to check the setup - have you got the jumpers on the CNC board under the stepper drivers to match the stepping resolution?

Ste

Alle 3 jumpers are mounted under the a4988 drivers for 1/16 step. Also with 80 steps/mm in the setup, the true travel distance is correct. I will try other setting from fullstep to 1/16 and see de difference in print quality. Maby that will tell me something. In every day use its is plenty accurate, but I I'm curious as to why it happens.

First of all thank you @villamany for this awesome design. I have got all the parts for my engraver and I have bought this 2.5w laser:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2500mW-2-5W-Blue-Light-Laser-Module-Parts-with-Holder-Heat-sink-for-Mini-Laser-Engraving/32437247036.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.OHK029

and this driver:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/12V-TTL-1W-2W-3W-445nm-450nm-Laser-Diode-LD-Driver-Power-Supply-Stage-Light-free/32638918727.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.OHK029

In your blog, when tunning thr driver you tell to set the voltage to 6.5V but in explanations of the laser it says that it works with 12V. So should I use the same settings as yours or should I make some modifications on these values? Thanks in advance and thank you for everything.

Hi, sorry i never used that laser, however seems to have a built in driver.

Also i dont know if it supports TTL modulation.

Oct 12, 2016 - Modified Oct 28, 2016
s3rkan - in reply to villamany

Thanks for the quick reply. I searched the internet a bit and found that banggood is selling the same laser.

http://www.banggood.com/445nm-2_5W-2500mW-Blue-Laser-Module-With-Heatsink-For-DIY-Laser-Cutter-Engraver-p-993521.html?rmmds=search

Like you said, it has an built in TTL driver. And on backside here is the picture:

http://img09.banggood.com/forum_images/20160323/20160323030418_93756.jpg

There are three pins: T+ T+ and T- (I suppose they are the TTL pins)

Please could you help me about this? I couldn't find any appropriate information on the net.

EDIT: For those who has the same laser, I have just made a simple mosfet driver for PWM driving. And now it is working now.

Does this support 1/32 microstepping? I upgraded to DRV8825 stepper motor drivers and configured the shield and doubled the steps per mm for 1/32. It was then I was having the issue that I described last week where the designs I made would fail. As soon as I reconfigured them for 1/16 microsteps my designs started burning fine. I'm satisfied with 1/16 but was wondering if there is an issue I'm missing nonetheless.

You need to mod the 3dpBurner configuration for double the steeps (160 steps mm).

However, probably you dont notice better quality and you will get a little lower max speed due to more steps to process.

My machine is almost complete, just waiting for the laser to arrive. Great project Villamany! I'm reading over the unofficial guide trying to learn about the software. I've got the 3dpBurnerSender and image2Gcode working well. I was trying to get CamBam working , but think i need to buy a license before it will work with my machine at all right? I could not figure out where to put the post processor file either, will buying a license unlock that feature? I'm not sure when i'll be able to spend that kind of cash so kinda bummed. Anyone have any luck with free cam software and care to share settings, or have a link? any help appreciated.

Hello,

The Prototyp 3dp Burner with A-Achse for Baseball bat is ready.

http://www.thingiverse.com/make:248575

3dpBurner. 3D printed laser cutter/engraver
by scv36

Hi there.
I'm trying to create custom images in inkscape and bring them over into CAMBam. I can do that fine, as well as prepare the gcode. However, when I go to burn the image, I set the home in the bottom left, press start, and the machine spazzes out. The laser turns on for a moment, then turns off, and the axis moves all the way to the front. Nothing else happens? Am I missing something in the workflow? Running the same gcode in CamMotics and on my MPCNC works fine.

Marlin dont use the same laser control codes than GRBL.

Download the CamBam postprocessor from here and set as default.
www.3dpburner.blogspot.com/p/files.html

hello guys, it's possible to install a Z motor to move laser up and down with different material thickness?

Hi , i am thinking for a 400 x 600 mm. Do you think i will have problem on y axis, does it need to be 10 mm rods. I think also 2 motors for y axis is one road

Hi. It should work fine with two Y motors. Get the most plain tables you can.

I created a facebook group for this great engraver if interested please join www.facebook.com/groups/1687028311623740/

Hey villamany,
I've been using this machine for a while now and it's been working really well!
But somehow if i want to engrave using image2gcode, I'm limited to fairly low speeds. Even if I put in 10000 or 15000 it is fairly slow.
This must be an issue with image2gcode, because
if I use cambam this is not an issue. Is there any setting I can change to increase the engraving speed?

Hi, it is limited by Arduino clock. The 3dpBurner Firmware, sender and image2gcode apps try to get the best performance by reducing the unnecessary data stream, however Arduino has limits.

At slower speeds you can hear a smooth motors and buffer stay almost at 17 (on the status bar of the sender), but over this speed you can hear an unsmooth movements and buffer goes to 0, this produces "micro-pauses" and the same unsmooth burning.

I you use lower resolution you can go faster due to less gcode lines to process at time, but no much more to do.

You can get the limits at desired resolution by setting the resolution on image2gcode and engraving a picture (use at least 60x60mm one), note it is only a speed test and you can disconnect the laser wires for prevent burning. Then increase speed and repeat until the buffer starts to fall, once the limit is reached you can see the buffer going down to 0 and notice a different motor sound.

I plan to publish soon different gauges for getting a bigger point, by unfocussing a little the laser, by this way you can reduce resolution and increase speed on bigger engravings.

Aug 31, 2016 - Modified Aug 31, 2016
chabachaba - in reply to villamany

ahh okay that makes sense.
Is this because of the arduinos processing power/memory? if so, would using a mega instead of an uno allow for better speeds?

Mega works at same speed than UNO

Hi Villamany, Would this be able to cut 2mm Styrene platic sheet?

Hi, never tried that plastic. But i cut 1mm PVC nicely.

Maybe some user can help.

Hello villamany,

I have a particular concern:

A friend wants a 3DpBurner with a working area of Y800mm X600mm Z 100mm.

He will therefore also baseball bat with a diameter of 80mm engraving & Bowls with 500mm diameter.
In the GBRL I have enabled the Z axis, and these cloned on Shild with two jumpers on A.
The sender program supports the cloned A axis, so no problem.

Among the problems:

1: Passage height of 100mm, for the two bridge would V2 exceed 50mm.
You have the Cad files.
Tell me what it costs.

2: The program does not support the Imagetogcode cloned (Z) A axis.
Which conversion program would be an alternative.

Sorry for the circumstances.

mfg .: scv36

Hi svc36. Sorry the 3dpburner only support up to 50mm working piece. More height will cause wobble. Maybe you can go for a 3 axis design machine

Hello,

Well, it's just worth a try, the walls should be reinforced by 5mm to 10mm.

A temporary solution Image2gcode I've found that simply Jpeg normal use S generate open with an editor and replace X by Z the file.

mfg.:scv

Aug 21, 2016 - Modified Aug 21, 2016

Hello,

I now have the third Burner built (A4).
This gives me a lot of trouble with error: Expected Command Letter.
The burner runs unchecked about to stop.

Ok, error found.

Poor soldering of the CPU from the Arduino Uno R3.

mfg.:scv36

This has been a great build! Thanks Villamany for sharing.

I got pretty much everything together and now working on cleaning up the wiring.
I did a couple of test burns last night with a picture and some came out ok. Some of them just a black silhouette. : )

Do you adjust the speed and laser power? Or just one of them?

Do you have some recommended starting points for various materials that worked for you?

Like what settings did you use for the Marilyn Monroe picture?

Each machine, material and color is different. You need to play with settings.
For wood grayscale engravings you can use as starting point this https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B5Y1gEmSHMjMRnpmdV9Ib2RsYWM

Great Thanks!

Eventually I want to do some engraving on acrylic. Any tips?

For clear acrylic you can use a paper sheet under the acrylic part. For non clear ones engrave directly.
https://youtu.be/cwLYmyKqtfw

Gotta go out and buy some acrylic now.

Each time I burn the image is upside down and my controls are backwards. Would it be the stepper motor wiring is reversed?

Also, I d/l 3dpBurnerA3Config.nc and changed the travel size (330x300) to match my build. Kept the acceleration at 1000 for now. Loaded and sent it. Then hit reset.
When I press "go home" it moves it to the lower right (backwards?) and crashes into the supports. Where should "home" be?

Right now I just jog it into position and zero XY for my tests.

Yes, rotate 180 degree the connector of the motor (on the cnc shield) and check if direction is ok now.

Also check the line "N0=xxx..." on the configuration file and replace the Y value (420) by your Y travel)

Any idea if the laser used here would be sufficient to do photoresistive PCB etching like shown here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4SNkzoOvoD8
I think it should be, but want to make sure before I start trying to build one.

The video uses 406nm at 60-100mw from a old XBox acordingn to comments.

I think you need to do test, a high laser power can cause a halo effect around the traces i think.

My 3DP burner is physically built, now doing the wiring. I have a few of electronics noob questions, not sure where else to ask.

  1. For the resistor, which is preferred, the 4k or the 10k?
  2. For the motors, my motors came with a six wire connector that doesn't seem to be compatible with the shield, and not sure how to wire that.
  3. After tightening the 20 tooth pulleys, they are a little eccentric on the motors, causing them to wobble. Will this be a problem with accuracy of moving the laser?

Found this guide to stepper motor wiring, hope it's helpful for anyone.
http://reprap.org/wiki/Stepper_wiring

Looking to make one of these soon. Just curious as to what bed materials everyone who has made one of these uses. Is there certain types of material to stay away from? Do others work better?

I use MDF 10mm wood due it is usually cheaper and more plain than others materials, but when cutting you need to use any metal sheet like aluminium over the MDF table for prevent base wood marking. I use some times 1mm tickness aluminium sheet but as cheap alternative you can use a simple cooking aluminium sheet (best mate side up for prevent reflexions).

Comments deleted.

Hi Villamany!
First of all i want to tell you how much I appreciate this project.
I've already made a core-xy frame, if I did not then I would have chosen this project for the hardware.
I have a question about the software you've made, the image2gcode.
I've tried this software, but it doesn't work with a standard grbl firmware (0.9j, with spindle speed control), and i'm guessing why. (i've read that you've made a simplified version, but i don't know what have been changed)
I've looked into the output file, and i can't find the issue, maybe the space between commands.
Can you help me?
Thank you! :)

Hi daysleeper, need more info about the exact problem, no any movement, no power variation...

Hola,
the problem is that, even if can move the machine by the direction arrows (in grbl-controller) and regulate the laser power, and even if i can run a simple hand written g-code, if i load the image2gcode's output the machine won't move.
I've just checked, the g-code is space/tab-insensitive, so my hypothesis was wrong (G0X +0. 12 34Y 7 is equal to G0 x+0.1234 Y7).
Here's a brief extract of the head of a tested file (made with image2gcode) that's not working:
M5
G0 X0 Y0
G90
G21
F2000
G0X0Y100.08
G1
M3
X0Y99.9S0
X0.18
X0.36
X0.54
X0.72
X0.9
...
I can't see anything that grbl can't handle, but i will do further test.
Thank you for your effort!

I think it should work or launch error responses

I've made further test and it seems that it's not your "fault" at all, since the same g-code is working like a charm with universal gcode sender...
I was using gbrl controller 3.5.1, since the zapmaker's link for the last version is not working (anyway, the last version is not so far from mine..).
Thank you again for your sharing!

Having trouble with the lower smooth rods not gliding into the doubled up linear bearings. Lost a few tiny ball bearings when I inserted, and it scraped the rods a bit. Could they be misaligned? Would lubrication help? Anybody have the same issue or can offer suggestions?

One trick in ABS pressure parts warehouse clang.

emphasize Acetone bearing shells 3-4 x with cotton swab from.
Both LM8UU install and align with the guide rod.

Ps .: This is a Google translation, hope is understandable

Hi thistof, play loosing and tightening the M8 nuts and base mount M3 bolts with the bridge placed on one side and the other for align.

A few oil drops into the bearing before inserting the rod can help.
Losing some balls should not be a major problem unless the bearing sounds "click, click" continuously, if this occurs, replace the bearing.

Can anyone recommend a good power supply for 120VAC (american) to use with this project?

Jun 9, 2016 - Modified Jun 9, 2016
villamany - in reply to thistof
May 27, 2016 - Modified May 27, 2016

There was another question, when printing SERVICE image is printed upside down and mirrored. it may be from improper installation of engines or this software needs to be solved?

You have many options to solve this:

Turned contacts engines . Now I will look for a free alternative cambam ))
Thank you.

Comments deleted.

Good day , everyone gathered and set up . But I can not figure out how to use the program , namely, how to display the laser to the desired point me to start printing , I bring and he then goes where he pleases . and the second question in a program format and create images for print . If you can video printing process from the beginning to the end of the show . Thank you

May 26, 2016 - Modified May 26, 2016
CatalanCaptain - in reply to antonkopa

First, you have to move the laser head to your desired starting point with the application arrows. I usually take the down left corner as my 0,0 starting point. It depends on your design.
Then turn on the laser filling the camp near the PWR button with a low number i.e: 5. Click PWR button and then ON button (must do in this order).
Make any fine adjustments of the starting position and click ZERO XY button to tell the application that this will be their new 0,0 coordinates.
Finally click SEND FILE to start burning
For the images to print visit http://3dpburner.blogspot.com.es/p/files.html and download Image2Gcode application developed by Villamany. It's a simple but powerful tool to burn images, and is optimized for 3dpburner.

Happy burning ;)

Comments deleted.

Check the "After flashing" section in the link I provided earlier.
Check the line "$N0=M5G92X0Y300Z0F5000" in the config file.
This command set the startup config every time you power up or reset the arduino.
Then check G92XYZ*** command on http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code/es#G92:_Set_Position . This will set any position you want as your starting position.

In manual mode, the serving team when everything works and the laser enters the desired point can 3dpBurner.Image2Gcode problem with the settings ?

May 26, 2016 - Modified May 26, 2016
antonkopa - in reply to antonkopa

Can someone that is ready to print the file to check ? (((

I don't understand what are you exactly asking for...
Image2Gcode starts burning from the upper left corner (in horitzontal mode) I think.
If you want that we check any file share the link to it.

Comments deleted.

thank you very much , I figured not set the correct value Engraving pattern

Hola Villamany, lo primero felicitarte porque es un proyecto estupendo, muy bien pensado y diseñado, util y sencillo. Tengo este laser que adquirí para otro proyecto pero no tengo mucha idea de donde podría conectarlo en la arduino uno (http://es.aliexpress.com/store/product/Power-5V-focusable-blue-violet-light-point-spot-500mW-405nm-laser-power-supply-laser-head-for/914980_32345624968.html?spm=2114.04010208.3.1.jYjnjU&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_0,searchweb201602_1_10017_10021_507_10022_10020_10009_10008_10018_10019_101,searchweb201603_7&btsid=1d7524c8-b4cd-43b6-a448-9adee4fe68fb) podria usarlo?

Hola, pues podrias conectarlo usando su fuente de alimentacion y un transistor por ejemplo este: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1429253

Pero parece que no admite control PWM por lo que no podras variar su potencia y deberas trabajar en modo todo/nada (ON/OFF)

IRF520 mosfet module bumper

For all those who had problems with cheap chinese drivers, I recommend this ones: http://www.ebay.es/itm/3A-analog-linear-PWM-laser-diode-driver-with-thermal-protection-/152027396256 .
It adds some interesting features (like overtemp protection, interlock, etc) and isn't much expensive.
Happy burning ;)

Thanks for sharing. They are good build quality

Only a pair of notes:
I tested that driver but they need a good heatsink and probably a fan for cooling. They provide the same 12v input to the diode and needs to dissipate more power as heat. You could also install a regulator for a lower voltage but this mean more components.

Also, at least on my unit the power resolution is lower (starting the beam at S10 instead S0).

For these reasons i decided to return back to the chinesse ones.

Right, the transistor dissipates a lot of heat due to 12V differential voltage. I'm actually trying a dual output power supply. 5V for the diode driver and 12V for the shield.

After burning 2 chinese drivers without knowing the causes, I decided to move on a more reliable driver.

The loss of resolution isn't very significant. You can use minimum as S10 in Image2Gcode and the program interpolates. Right?

Yes, you can use S10 as minimun on the application, but usually i send S0 for view and center the beam without goggles, at this power laser is like a led, at S10 goggles are a need. So i decided to return back.

Maybe 5v is not enought for driving the diode, take care max Vc is about 5.5v at full power.

Report your results when done!

I mean S10 on image2Gcode application as the minimum laser power, and then it interpolates between 10 and 255.
I use S5 to ligth up the diode to center the beam.

In my case, I use M140 diode, so the maximum voltage at 2W output is 4.5V, as supplier (https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/diodes/445-m140-didoes) show in their tests.

I've tested in a little engrave outline+infill text on plywood with successful results. I will post later results.

Just a note of thanks...

Got my burner up and running and working awesome. My students are all very impressed with it.

Thanks for all your help and work getting this project out to the masses. It's awesome.

I've finished assembling and wiring (i used https://www.ebay.it/ulk/itm/262393653353 as driver) the laser lights up but it has no power to engrave anything...

Do you measured the actual laser diode current?
Are you setting S to 255?
Is your laser focussed?

i measured the current and focused the laser but i used the button (Laser ON) and 100 in power on the interface of your control program
am I doing wrong?

Max power is 255 not 100. But increase slowly checking the laser current with the ammeter.

One more thing sorry...
What resistance i have to use beetween the two laser poles?
1ohm?

No resistor on the laser side. Carefully check the wiring and BOM http://3dpburner.blogspot.com/p/lectronic.html

sorry on the TTL side

Any from 2-10k should work. It is only used when Arduino resets for prevent momentarily laser turning on.

omg...
the resistance wasn't still mounted...
the laser was working well and finally engraving
arduino resetted, the laser bliked and now is not turning ON anymore....
omg... :( :( :(

The resistor abscense is not the cause. Probably a highther current or spike fried your diode.
Do you checked the diode current while increasing slowly up to S255?

I Made a mistake measuring i presume... Can I put a 2A fuse in the middle of driver and laser ? To prevent accidents?

Not sure if the fuse can blow before the diode or not. However if you want to use go for a rapid one.

I never had issues with a correct tuned driver.

Resistance user posted a beter tuning method using 1N5404 rectifier diodes here http://odicforce.com/epages/05c54fb6-7778-4d36-adc0-0098b2af7c4e.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/05c54fb6-7778-4d36-adc0-0098b2af7c4e/Categories/Background_and_Projects/Setting_the_Laser_Driver

They are cheap and can be used for checking the correct working driver before final laser tuning. I suggest to use 6x 1N5404 instead the laser diode.

Thank you that's a great alternative. I will do that for sure when the new laser arrives

Ok i will try and post the results

Next problem...

Hooked up the laser after testing a dc motor and measuring current. Current was set to .17A when laser was hooked up. Got the machine running, was able to tune the laser to to .39A when it suddenly went to 0. Now nothing. Motor still works fine. Is the laser shot?

Might be dead... Did you connect it right? If you didn't, you you can destroy it because these things have a very low reverse voltage rating..
To calibrate a driver you might want to read this: http://odicforce.com/epages/05c54fb6-7778-4d36-adc0-0098b2af7c4e.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/05c54fb6-7778-4d36-adc0-0098b2af7c4e/Categories/Background_and_Projects/Setting_the_Laser_Driver

A DC motor is a bad choice as a dummy load. You can not predict the voltage drop over it..

Need to add no light came out of the laser and the voltage was set to 6.5V as per instructions.

How exactly do I measure the current? Where do I place my multimeter leads?

Anyone?

Use the current mode of your multimeter and put leads in serial with the diode

Thanks. Turns out my driver was bad. Glad I ordered a few.

hi my laser has arrived
i've bought this : http://www.ebay.it/itm/170970293178?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
it has an x-drive board integrated.
so i want to ask how to configure it or if it's already plug and play as described
thank you

I dont have experience with this built in driver, but probably is not PWM capable.
Acording to description you need a 6-8.4V power supply for driving and any like and IRF520 or relay module as switch.
Dont know if the driver can have any delay at power on/off and also seems to come with a high current setting not suitable for continuous working at max current.

Apr 29, 2016 - Modified Apr 29, 2016
Electro85 - in reply to villamany

So do I have to buy another driver?
And can you post a link or a name of a driver that can do? Maybe your driver (you only posted a photo)

Have a look here: https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/flexdrives/x-drive
It's the vendor's website and it has full and clear instructions on how to modify the driver

I have nearly completed building my 3dp Burner, and everything has gone together flawlessly. I am now working on the wiring, and I have a total noob question. I bought the Nichia NDB7875 that you suggested, and it came prewired with the 2.4A X-drive laser driver. I also bought the stand alone Laser driver also that you recommended, and now I am assuming that I should remove the prewired driver, and use the stand alone driver? Thanks again for developing such a great product!

Hi tritodd. Thanks.
Yes. you should remove the built in driver for using the PWM capable one

That's great news. Thanks for the info .Thanks as well for the great design. It's kept me busy for the last month.

Hi everyone , Just fitted my M140 and I'm getting burning (just) @ 6v and 400 mA . I cant increase the current anymore , the current pot is maxed out. So i'll have to raise the voltage but I'm paranoid about damaging the diode.

Id like to know what I can safely raise the voltage to without shortening the diode life (or blowing it ) .
a current of 800-1200 mA would be ideal.

Thanks...

Dont worry, Increase voltage slowly. Take care you set first S255 for full power.

On my last build i set the voltage at 7.5v for the same reason.
Laser is current dependat not voltage (my firs test was at 12v).

The voltage is not critical for diodes the lower voltage, the lower risk if a spike ocurrs and lower heat disipation on the driver, but not critical.

Hello Villamany, I have almost finished my engraver but i am thinking to add a cutter(blade) or plotter (pen) so it will be needed to place a servo. Do you know how to wire the servo to the arduino? What pins to use?.Thank you very much for your work

Sorry, no experience with servos and GRBL. But you can use a 12v solenoid and IRF520 module for driving it (i think you can also use the pwm for pressure control like comercial cutters)

some of the parts in your assembly video are not here

Nevermind I see your design has changed quite a bit since that video

I'm printing 3dpBurner2, everything is printed OK, except carriageV3.STL (I prefer this instead of carriageV5.STL due to my custom hardware mount).

Can you provide information about your slicer (including version), settings and print conditions to print carriageV3.STL? Are you using supports? Cooling? Print speed?

I use without any issue (main settings):

Slicer used: Slic3r 1.2.9 (tested several versions with same results)
PLA
layer height 0.25mm
I print on a cold glass with hair spray coating, no raft, no brim, no support
Perimeters 2, top/botom layers 3, rectilinear infill at 40%-60%
Active colling during all print except first layer
Perimeters 60mm/min
External perimeters 40mm/min
Infill 70mm/min
Solid infill 60mm/min
Botom layer 25mm/min
Bridges 60mm/min
Overlap 15%
Solid infill when ther layer area is <70mm^2

Thank you! Problem was with lower side of lm8uu hole (closer to center of carriagev3, right under belt clips), lower side is almost parallel to the printer's bed surface. Strong cooling and lower perimeter speed (10 mm/second) helped me a lot.

One more question - how strong your PLA parts? PLA plastic is often cracking/breaking under load. Do you have any problems with that plastic in your 3dpBurner2?

Nice.
No any issues with PLA parts.

What is the thickness you can cut for standard acrylic and wood. 1/4"?

awesome design i want tot start making mine just want to know are your stl files metric

Yes, they are for fixing 8mm smooth rods and M3/M8 hardware

Cheers mate...awesome job

Would this be rigid enough for pcb milling?

Maybe the small size, but not designed for this and don't have Z axis

any idea if it also works with pla?

Yes, while you maintain the tolerances. But check the 3dpBurner2 version on the blog. It is PLA optimized.

Start to finish how much $$ did this run ya?

It should cost less than 200USD if you get the parts on cheap sites.

Hello

I want to let the fans with a 5V relay switch off / on.

On the CnC shield is a cool connection , as it has to be driven ?

On -Z ( is also a TTL on ) does not go unfortunately because with S100 for example . the 5V relay too little gets voltage .

thanks

Hi. You could use the coolant pin and commands for relay control.
https://github.com/grbl/grbl/wiki/Connecting-Grbl

Ok - Coolpin M8 on M9 off
Fan.

Now hear it all the more Automates the fan with the laser on / off is connected .

Feb 10, 2016 - Modified Feb 10, 2016
villamany - in reply to scv36

Yes, you should now to configure your gcode post processor for inserting the M8 and M9 in similar way than M3 and M5 for turning the laser ON/OFF.

Entry in 3dpBurner Image2Gcode v0.1

Gcode header
( Header )
G0x0y0
M8
( Header end )

Gcode Footer
( Footer )
G0x0y0
M9
( Footer end )

not still burning .

4.6 - 4.8 V 1A
6.5V 1.7 A

The laser driver of the blue trimming potentiometer me no adjustment is broken , it is possible .

Have these replaced by a 5K potentiometer .

Feb 4, 2016 - Modified Feb 4, 2016
villamany - in reply to scv36

No, you need to replace by the same pot type, however if you can adjust current 1-1.7 probably is ok.

If you actually are getting 1.7A on the laser, this should burn. Make sure you have focussed the beam and the laser diode is really working at that current.

I now have a Nichia NDB7875 445nm 9mm installed, which lase with 4.8V 1.2A

i use the same NDB7875 at 6-6.5v and 1.7A

Yes I know ;)

First I have again a new blue trim pot solder before I increase the voltage .
The current stopgap with a bipod 5KPoti are max 1.2 A

Feb 3, 2016 - Modified Feb 3, 2016

Hello

I have built a 2W M140 N445 Blue diode .

First test with 4.6V - 4.8V brought no burning results .
Second attempt with 6.5V no burning results .

Where is the problem?

thanks

Feb 3, 2016 - Modified Feb 3, 2016
villamany - in reply to scv36

what did you mean with no firing?. No work anymore or still no burning?

What is your current setting at 4.6 and 6.5v?

The voltage doesn't matter for laser power while goes above the max Vc on de diode (about 5.5v on the 9mm 445 one).
The better is the lower voltage but above max Vc due to lower voltage is more safe for spikes and has less power dissipation (heat) on the driver.

Hi, tell me please , what material you use for table ?

I use MDF or plywood (must be plain tables)

Comments deleted.

need more info about you laser setup.
Do you measured the laser current?
Voltage?
PWM is present on driver input?

If you "play" with voltage and current without taking care the values probably you has fried your diode.

Thanks for the answer. I now properly calibrated it and it the diode works. I had the current way too low (didn't think the potentiometer had that many turns).

Hi, probably you have your motors incorrectly wired to CNC shield and/or incorrectly current setting of your drivers.
Check with a multimeter your motors coils and connect by this order to Motor sockets.
Pin1 CoilA
Pin2 CoilA'
Pin3 CoilB
Pin4 CoilB'

Jan 31, 2016 - Modified Jan 31, 2016
chabachaba - in reply to villamany

I checked the motor wiring multiple times. It's correct. the problem seems to be that there is no voltage on the direction pin (DIR) whatsoever, no matter in which direction I want the motor to go. this is the case for both motors.
What could cause this? (I already replaced the motor drivers, wired endstops, checked endstop wiring (the software recognizes it) , flashed the firmware multiple times)

Comments deleted.

Does anyone have a Materiallist in German for the 3dpBurner V2? My technical German is not very well...

Is it possible to print these parts with pla?

Yes, while you maintain good tolerances. But i recommend the 3dpBurner2 instead. it is PLA printing optimized.

Jan 21, 2016 - Modified Jan 22, 2016

Hello
I 've been using the laser driver problems with the Volt setting , I can not get over 2:50 Volt .

I test for the whole time with a LED .

Driver is the same as yours.

update :

The driver works well, there were two cold solder the cause .

Hello there,

I have copied this excellent project .

The next step is the shoring of Nichia NDB7875 445nm laser diode 9mm blue to 3W .

For that I have to use a 500mw laser line sacrificed to the housing .

I wanted to know if I can also use the laser lens of them now ?

Jan 18, 2016 - Modified Jan 18, 2016
villamany - in reply to scv36

Thanks.
The lens should be for laser wavelength (445nm for ndb7875). But probably your lens can be an acrylic one, so is not recommended for these powers. The crystal ones are more clear (more power) and cant be damaged by the laser itself.

If you had troubles acquiring the crystal one you can try them, but not sure if perform ok.

Jan 13, 2016 - Modified Jan 13, 2016

Hey. Awesome design. I'm building one right now. With the blue laser diode mentioned on your website, is it strong enough to engrave stuff into anodized aluminum or plastic? ( can I engrave my phone with this?)

Hi, usually no metal can be engraved. Some people said that black anodized aluminium can be but not tested personally.
About the plastic, yes it can be engraved without problems.

Hi. Is it possible without special alterations to make use of your marker or pencil, drill machine?

Hi, no. You need to design a carriage for that.

The Arduino Mega 2560 compliant you send hex file

As Villamany says in his summary of the thing (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1053787), it's on the main 12V power line.

3dpBurner2 voltage/current Meter

where we have to connect the circuit voltmeter

So what about would you reckon is the ballpark cost for putting one of these together, already have a printer

Less than 200usd with the NDB7875 laser i used (the most costly part)

What do you think the problem might be. b How many bass that I bought. then I forgot to rearrange the connection cable resistance when I thought it was him. laser printing on fire but is not doing

I forgot to connect the resistor to TTL input. laser light was burning giving but not doing now what do you think the problem is broken laser did wonder

No, the problem is other. Resistor is not the cause.

cam bam download link give. I could not find :(

WHAT SHOULD BE THE MAXIMUM POWER FOR CUTTING 2 MM.

I wonder if the 500 mW laser will cut me in?

These lasers (2000-60000mw) cant cut metal, only plastics, fabrics, cardboard, balsa... woods like 2-4mm plywood need many pases. 500mw is low power, also there is no any standard setting for work with any material, you need to try and test your own serup for each new material.

THE LASER POWER SHOULD BE THE MAXIMUM NUMBER.RESOLUTION SHOULD ALWAYS BE 0.18

Dec 11, 2015 - Modified Dec 11, 2015
villamany - in reply to Casper23

I take the beam usually as a tool of 0.18mm diameter for vectorial engraving/cutting and about 0.10mm for grayscale engravings.
Real burning thickness is material/power/speed dependant,

Dear villamany!
First, thanks a lot that you share this fantastic laser engraver machine. I'm just waiting for my laser module already...until it comes I wired up a ledstrip instead of it. I built it in a bit bigger size, about 600x600mm.
So, everything is clear, except the controlling :/ . I have this ( http://www.aliexpress.com/item/USBCNC-3-Axis-Stepper-Motor-USB-Driver-Board-Controller-Laser-board-for-CNC-Engraving-Machine/32252767115.html ) controller board. The arduino cant handle the grbl 0.9 ... :( just the 0.8c. What do you propose ? What can I do? ( I'm a rookie with the arduino...)

I dont have experience with this board. But it uses Arduino. Try to flash it with 3dpBurner2 fw and use Z+ pin as TTL input for your laser driver. 0.8 uses the same pinout than 0.9 but swaped the Z limit pin and spindle enable when you enable the variable spindle (as on 3dpBurner). Check the GRBL wiki for pinout (you can consider Arduino UNO as similar to your board uses but different shape)

Comments deleted.

I have a safety question. I have almost finished my 3dpburner, and also got some orange safet googles. However, I am concerned, that when running a long job at my workbench in the garage, someone else might enter the room. Exactly how dangerous is it to look at the laser with out safety googles. Does the distance to the viewer matter?

It is a class IV laser and can burn your eyes. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laser_safety

However, i accidentally see my laser working without protection some times and reflections are material dependant, I think you should make an enclosure for your laser machine, for example using wood or a good cardboard box and adding a translucent red plexiglass window on the enclosure front. This will protect a lot.

Take care if these laser are focused can burn at some meters of distance, reflections usually are not focused but can damage your fragile eyes in similar way.

Hello villamany,
thanks for sharing this project with the community! One question: what software are you using for image engraving?

Keep up the good work!

Thanks. Check the downloads on the blog. Im using 3dpBurner Image2gcode.

I want the software to install video up. I'm glad you wrote in the order.

sorry, what did you mean?

software loading Can you prepare a video.

Sorry, i dont have video for this.
Applications are simple and easy to use and Arduino is also easy to flash using the Xloader app.

Any thought of creating a dremel cnc attachment for this unit, only thing it's missing is the z axis and dremel mount.

I would love to see that be made as the laser engraver itself has been perfect.

Thanks again !

Congratulations for the project !!
I wonder if the 3dpBurner is capable of cutting aluminum, my goal is to make chassis plates for rc car.
What is the most suitable laser to do this kind of work and I need to modify your project to develop the work?
I am new to 3d printer and am interested in using your project.
Thank you

Thanks. No, these laser cant cut aluminium. You need to go for expensive very high power laser, plasma, waterjet, cnc milling...

Thanx for 3dpBurner.Image2Gcode.exe. Are U have plans for develop this program? For example add DVG or DXF files processing. Just like changing CAMBAM for this laser cutter.

There are some good dedicated cad/cam software, For the moment the 3dpBurner software goal still to be simple, easy to use and optimized for GRBL. I dont have much spare time so these features are not on the toDo list.

I have 2 nema 23 motors laying around from a plotter. Will these be too heavy? I'm going to have to modify the mounts a little but want to make sure the bridge's won't flex

Never tested NEMA 23 on this design. Probably can have other dimension fitting issues (touching bridge belt holder) And more mass to move/vibrations

Hello,

Very good project!!

But I'm having trouble with GCODE- I cannot get text to print even. I use Inkscape with Laser Tool Plugin, if I was to print the word "ZOO", the Z prints fast and the O's go slowly, meaning much deeper burn, and looks ugly. I think from reading this may be to do with $9 command, but does 3DPBurner firmware support this, as I cannot see in $$ command?

I see you print nice in your videos though?

Nov 11, 2015 - Modified Nov 11, 2015
villamany - in reply to TJTHEDOG

I dont have experience with inkscape plugin so dont know what settings to play.

Send me the gcode file for checking. What sender app are you using?

[email protected]

http://pastebin.com/xy0fXxAf

I was using your sender ... is this okay?
The arc control I think is the problem but I don't know GCODE very well.

Nov 12, 2015 - Modified Nov 12, 2015
villamany - in reply to TJTHEDOG

Yes 3dpBurner Sender is ok. I see you are using G0 for linear movements instead G1, so lines are running at max speed (travel speed) while arcs are running at correct speed (working speed or F speed).

Configure your plugin for use G0 only for travel movememts. And probably now you will see all engraving movements are slowly and you need to increase the F speed.

G0 is always executed at max speed and should be used only for travel movements. While G1, G2 and G3 are executed at engraving speed (setting up by Fxxx command).

Ah, okay thanks I sort of understrand. I do not think the plugin is configurable. Pity as Inkscape seems very good/easy to use, perhaps another plugin will be made soon. Cannot use free CamBam as not compaitble with you plugin I think.

Thank you for help and support.

you may be able to open the gcode as text, and use the find and replace function. eg. find G0 replace with G1. It will cause all your rapids to also slow down to the F value, but that shouldnt matter as the laser would be off during these moves. Print would just take longer. No garentees though

Hi! Working on the 3dp Burner 2. Just wondering, I printed all the STL's for ver2 that you sent me. But I'm printing in ABS on a heated bed in an enclosed printer but everything seems to be coming out a few millimeters short of fitting, My first thought was to just scale everything up a few percent but dunno if that will impact much. Any suggestions would be helpful!

The recommended print settings is PLA at min 40%. Tolerances are different for PLA and ABS due to different shrinkage (but a few milimeters sounds much) Design is PLA optimized. However you can try adjusting your flowrate and printing the toleranceTest part.

After finally getting the last component (heatsink) as it was previously lost in the post, I'm still struggling to get this running Villamany....

I've now bought 3 laser drivers in effort to get an a8 or 10 version (via eBay photos), however they've all been a12's. I'm not able to adjust the current on these - I can get the voltage to 6.5v, but the current barely changes no matter how much I turn the potentiometer, and there are no clicks after the required 25 turns (according to specifications sheet for the component, however these appear to all be Chinese copies of the original potentiometer on these boards).

Has anyone had any success with the a12 driver, and if so, how did you calibrate it? (some detail would be great please if possible)

Just an update - the A12 driver does work, but light does not go out as per instructions for the A-10 driver (on my three driver boards anyway ...). Using a 7k2 resistor as per instructions fine.

Thanks for the info!

Oct 15, 2015 - Modified Oct 15, 2015

Wow, really cool design.
I'm thinking about making one. How much would you estimate all the non-printed parts cost?

Oct 16, 2015 - Modified Oct 16, 2015
villamany - in reply to chabachaba

I think all parts including printed ones with the 3W laser should be <200usd. You can use a cheaper laser if you want.

Any printing details about count of shells etc?

Oct 8, 2015 - Modified Oct 8, 2015
villamany - in reply to HiJech

For 3dpBurner1 i use ABS at 90% infill, for printing on .STL position without supports, at .25 layer height and use 2 shells.

For 3dpBurner2 I use PLA at 40% infill, for printing on .STL position without supports, at .25 layer height and use 2 shells.
You can print the two main bridge parts at higher infill if you want but 40% is ok.

Hello Villamany!
Thank's a lot!
I've just finished the complete build.
The electronics just works fine and I'm looking for a store in Europe to order the laser and the driver, but it seems that I have to order the laser in the Usa.
On ebay I found this one: http://www.ebay.de/itm/12V-TTL-1W-2W-3W-445nm-450nm-Konstantstromquelle-Treiber-Stromregler-Licht-Effe-/400953380353?hash=item5d5aaf0e01:g:-zYAAOSw9N1VnPZ5

But I'm not sure if it has PWM also included?
I don't think so?!
I only can find drivers with ttl..
Can you give me a link for the correct laser driver, please?
That would be nice.
Greetings from Germany!

These drivers have a TTL input. The Arduino (GRBL) will PWM it's output so you can regulate the outputp power.
I have ordered a laser here: http://odicforce.com/
The driver they have http://odicforce.com/epages/05c54fb6-7778-4d36-adc0-0098b2af7c4e.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/05c54fb6-7778-4d36-adc0-0098b2af7c4e/Products/OFL432 looks exactly the same as the one you found..
If you PM me I'll send you a list of what I have ordered from them.
The prices are comparable to the ones in the US. Except you save some on shipping and time.
The heatsink is slightly larger than the one Villamany uses, but I have adapted the x-carriage for it.

That would be awesome!!
PM was sent.
Greetings!

Dec 30, 2015 - Modified Dec 30, 2015
highground - in reply to ReSiStAnCe

Have bought & received my new heat sink (as recommended) and await your design :-) Thanks Villamany!

I published the files.
Check the remix section

Thanks Resistance, I might have a go at printing it over the weekend. However it does appear to be perhaps different to Villamanys upcoming release, which encloses the beam with what appears to be a sliding sleeve. I'll just have to try both!

I'm working on that.. The idea is to have a similar sleeve (shroud) which will slide in the grooves of the heatsink

Dec 30, 2015 - Modified Dec 31, 2015
highground - in reply to ReSiStAnCe

I'm not sure if the version Villamany has redesign has this or not yet, but I think it would be great if the shroud could double as a focusing gauge - drops to 50 mm to set focus then clicks up a fraction perhaps to then allow movement? My other issue at the moment is the cable loom coming out of the laser carriage - I currently have it supported by some thick wire to hold it in position. Partially this is because I've put a thermal sensor on my laser, and the loom holds it against the heatsink. I'm hoping to mount this elsewhere in the next design.

I've also almost completed a user manual for the 3dpburner, which I'll send over to Villamany in the next week or so. As other people have seen mine and want to build their own, I decided to make this to help out, as CamBam etc isn't easy to figure out without a lot if experimentation or a little help. (For me anyway)

Thanks for reply RaSiStAnCe, yes, the 3dpBurner uses TTL drivers so the HiJech and ReSiStAnCe posted ones are ok (are the same).
About the heatsink, if you already dont have one i plan to publish soon a new carriage that uses a different heatsink with improved cooling. Check this http://3dpburner.blogspot.com/2015/12/improved-carriage-coming-soon.html

Again, thank's a lot villamany!!
Thumbs up for your great work!!!
Greetings

Hi! I have a 2w laser with TTL.What is resistor I need?

What laser driver are you using?

Sorry,, never used that driver. Not sure how the TTL input works (5v compatible??). No info about this. I think the best is test without the laser the correct working and also check if needs the resistor. On walye drivers the resistor is only used for pull down the TTL input while arduino is booting, all works without it but the laser can turns on about 1s when you apply power if resistor is not used. The value is not very important, any from 4 to 10k should work fine.

0V is off, 5V is on. Now U can say value of resistor to me?

If you power the driver withot TTL wired and laser stay off dont need resistor else try with a 10k

Sep 8, 2015 - Modified Sep 8, 2015
DaGov - in reply to villamany

No,if I just take 12V without TTL laser is on. Thanx

So try 10k

What power of resistor? I used 0.25W and power of laser is very low. Try 5.1k, 8.2k, 10k.

Laser power is not resistor dependant. Resistor is only used as pull down for prevent unwanted instant power laser on when Arduino resets. The smaller power you have is ok. I ised 1/4W.

Great blog and tutorial Villamany, I'm just about to build this (just waiting on delivery of some final parts) however I've have seen you've been hard at work building a new version - any ideas when you'll be ready to release the details and instructions? Keep up the good work!

Hi Highgroung, yes i'm working on the new version assembling guide, but not sure when finished. Maybe 1 month. However, probably all 3dpBurner1 vitamins parts can be reused for the 3dpBurner2, getting a bigger working area due to the more compact design and the X,Y base threaded rods will be left over for spare parts :)

can anyone give us a tut on how to setup the driver i just fried my 2nd driver :_(

note to everone my driver (a-12) does not work with the 10k resister

I have the same a-12 board which I haven't tried yet, but I have already put a 10k resistor on it. Have you found one that works? Perhaps try a 7k?

make sure you leave the resistor on it i just zaped my laser and its trashed.

Sorry to hear that...!! :-(

What was happening when you had the resistor on the first time - were you getting no power at all to the laser?

When u plug the usb in power come on full for min then back off guess then I took off resistor then did it and that's when I fried it did you try yours out yet

No mate I probably won't get to test mine for another week perhaps. I think I'll test with a meter for your problem before I do so too! Hopefully your sacrifice will help others .... if that makes you feel any better

Comments deleted.

My cnc shield v.3 arrived yesterday but I realize that my laptop USB port deliver only 4.5v not 5v. I mean that I read 4.5v when I send M3 S255 command. Also I tuned A10 driver exactly what you say but I cannot reach 1.65A, only I get max 0.8A even if I turn the pot contionusly

bob74 - in reply to ase

Im having the same trouble with the amps on the A10 driver, i can only reach 0.33A.

think it did the same on mine too

No one for help?

Do you have the laser o any load attached to laser output when measure current or are you measuring shorting the output with ampmeter?

I have not constant current power supply so I afraid if I burn the diode. Any suggestion?

Aug 11, 2015 - Modified Aug 11, 2015
villamany - in reply to ase

Try this method for tuning the driver, sorry for the translation.

http://3dpburner.blogspot.com/p/alternative-driver-tuning.html

Aug 16, 2015 - Modified Aug 16, 2015
ase - in reply to villamany

Thanks for your detailed guide. I have tried this method and everything is same but I find the problem. It is related to Voltage. When I set it to 6.5v (as you said) the board current never rise from 800 mA (it is upper limit) even if I multi turn the pot. So I decide to increase the fixed voltage. I turn the voltage pot CW a bit (I did not measure new voltage value) and now it draw 1.55 amps.

Nice! The more safe voltage is as low as possible for getting the desired current. The higher voltage the higher dangerous spikes at turning On the laser.

Constant current driver is a must for this diode.

Do you have the laser o any load attached to laser driver output when measure current or are you measuring shorting the driver output with ampmeter?

I had the laser attached when testing mine, I've now changed the laser diode potentiometer on the driver and it all works fine now!

Nice!, maybe defective driver board?

when mite you be done with your video love to see it.

I've seen plenty of videos of engravings on multiple materials. But, is it possible to cut THROUGH wood and other materials?

Would you recommend that someone less familiar with electrical engineering avoid this project? I'm a 3d programmer, so familiar with complex "stuff", generally speaking. I'm familiar with the electronics basics, checking voltage, resistance, etc. Basically, I can solder and use a multimeter. Anything beyond that venturing into new territory.

Thanks for any insight!

Basics electronics is ok for this project... it can cut thin and non ferrous materials I cut card board, eva foammy, plastics sheets. I also cut 4mm plywood but very slowly and on multiple pases.
For cutting > 2mm thickness the best is a CO2 laser machine.

Check for 445nm laser cutting on google. The most used is the M140 laser diode, but the 9mm diode I used is better and more powerfull than M140

i only get 0.05v then i hook everthing up and send cmd i only get from 4.95 to 4.05v thats the max? im not sure if its the driver or type anyone had luck out of the a-10 driver boards?

I have A8 and A10 versions working withot problems @6.5v. The laser max VC is about 5.5v at 2.4A so above this 5.5v should work fine...
But you can try at 4v if you are sure the current regulation of your driver is ok.

ok i tryed the laser comes on but does not do much im going to order new a10 and see how that works out also i like to take this time and thank you for your help. you should put a video up of the hole build really love this project thanks

Thanks... im working on the second itineration now :)

Comments deleted.

Remove the pull down and arduino connections. Apply only 12v input and check laser output again. If still 4v i think is a defective driver.

ok got a q for everone that has made this I got the laser driver a-12 and im getting 4.95 volts from cnc sheld but when I go to turn pot on driver I can only get 3.95 volts? I have a 10k resister on it I can keep turning it but it will not go past 3.95 volts any help would be nice

the driver voltage output is related to 12v input, the arduino 5v output is only used to control the driver transistor gates. So max output should be close to 12v. At least on the A8 and A10 i used.

do you know if the 10k 1/2watt carbon film resistor will work on the laser driver?

Yes, it should work

if i want to make the size of the bed bigger how do i change this in settings? cant seem to find anything about the settings thanks

there is no need to modify settings. Actually endstops only are used to send the carriage to a corner. No travel limits... You have the $130 and $131 settings to define the X/Y max travel, but they are not used on the actual firmware

Hi, I made this great design one but I have only ramps 1.4. I could not achive using D6, D11 pins for TTL. Anybody can help me controlling it via ramps and marlin changes.
Thanks

Could you provide a link to purchase the 3D printed parts from you? I would live to support your effort!

Also, I don't know much about electronics, could you also tell me where to find the drop down resistor?

Thank you very much for your effort!

May 24, 2015 - Modified May 24, 2015
villamany - in reply to Winchester7mm

Of course, you can print yours or contribute with the project buying parts here. http://store.3dpburner.com thanks!
..any resistof from 1 to 10k should work, you can get it from any not used electronic board.

I am half-way through, mechanical part finished and looks very nice - Many Thanks to villamany for a functional, sturdy and efficient design! Now it's time for electronics, and I am going to use Mega2560 + RAMPS + LCD panel with SD card + the diode driver I got on Ebay from Moscow - it is exceptionally well designed, has several different kinds of protection (thermal, spikes) and seems to be easy enough to configure. Laser diode is M140 2W.
Shall post the results when everything is assembled, tuned and working.
After that perhaps I shall try to implement peltier TEC cooling for the Laser to prolong its life.

Nice!, but take care, the fan is used for heatsink cooling and pushing fumes away the lens for prevent contamination.

I followed your directions for tuning the laser but am having some issues.

I was never able to adjust the current pot by turning it counter clockwise until the driver led would go out... it never will. it stays lit.

I can't get the current adjustment to make any changes on a walye-power-a10 board... no matter what direction i rotate the current pot i always get an output of 3.1 amps when i short the laser output with the current meter in the loop.

do you think this is a bad board?

This is interesting. I finished my build today and all of the motion control electronics are working fine but I have same issue as Mike. After turning voltage to 6.5V, I adjust current counter-clockwise but yellow driver light never turns off.I also have the A10 driver board.

I just started tuning my laser as well - I have A10 board, voltage set to 6.5v - the yellow light never turns off. I can confirm that 0 voltage is coming from arduino, but the light is still on and current flowing through the laser circuit. thoughts?

I got mine tuned up today. I never could get the light to turn off with the meter hooked up to read voltage. I went ahead and hooked it up to read current(short) and was seeing about 3 amps. I turned the current adjustment counter clockwise and saw the current reading start to go down. It takes many turns but you will see the light turn off once you get around the one amp range .I was afraid to kill my meter so I would turn laser on, adjust for a few seconds,then turn off with gcode sender laser on/off button. Once you get the current low enough to shut the light off, you can connect the laser with the meter in series for current reading. Turn laser on and adjust current to final value of 1.65 amps.

Comments deleted.
BTutu - in reply to leo69

Hello can you tell me the output current and voltage of your A10 board after tuning? And which pulldown resistance do you use? Thank you very much

leo69 - in reply to BTutu

I have my a10 set to 6.5 volts , 1.67amps. I've run a few jobs now with no overheating or any issues . I'm very happy with the project. The voltage setting was easy but I did have problems setting the current like every one else. The light would not turn off for me either. Finally got it set by connecting meter to output (short) so I could see the value go down with each turn of the pot. I only turned the power on a few seconds at a time for fear of frying my meter but finally got it tuned. Pull down resistor is 10k by the way.

OK im not the brightest when it come to electronics... I set M3 S255 I verify that it is sending 5 volts. if I turn off the laser in the sender program, I verify that the voltage is 0 - but the output of the driver is still 6.5 volts and 1.64 amps. I guess I'm doing something wrong cant seem to get it to turn off the laser output. thoughts? thanks for your help!

Re-check the correct connection of the driver TTL input and CNC shield Z- pins, take care polarity.

Also if you install the Pull-down resistor (i use 4k7) on driver input and leave the TTL input unconnected, the laser should stay off. If not, maybe your driver has some problem.

Yes, the current pot is a multi turn precision type. You can hear a very small click when. Set to min/max positions.

I also have the A10 version and work as expected. Is your voltage about 6v?

Apr 12, 2015 - Modified Apr 12, 2015
BTutu - in reply to villamany

Hello, I also encounter the same problem with the A10 version, impossible to adjust current. It started out with 4A, and the current trimpot did nothing even when I turned it to min/max (I mesured the resistance value of the trimpot to know it min/max). Some time it would get down to 3.3A at best, but then after a while jump up to 3.8 or 3.9 A. The light never turn off except for when I connected the ampmeter to mesure the output current. I checked all the connections and my pulldown resistance is 6.8K.
Maybe the board has a problem? I'm thinking of connect another trimpot at the output pins to regulated the current to the diode...

Sorry, i dont know what is the problem, maybe is defective or some mods on new drivers. Dont connect the laser, you will fry it.
A trim pot on the output is not suitable, it will be fried due to currrent.
Test with/without pullDown resistor, on my first test with a lab power supply i use some LED diodes instead the laser (low current test) and fried many of them.

Maybe some A10 version users can confirm they are working as expected (at this moment i have only the A8 version for testing).

Just a note. I loaded the STLs into Kislicer and it is complaining about some vertices... Printed them anyway and some of the parts do not look ideal. They will still work. But not as pretty as could be. Hope the author can fixe them and update these files.

thanks for report. Sorry, i only use Slic3r and no issues for printing

Have you tried engraving acrylic at all? I'm looking to engrave a logo in acrylic just to get that white frost where the images would be in clear acrylic.. wondering if you've had any success or tried doing it?

Yes, i get good results by using a paper sheet under the acrylic and focusing laser to paper. Also work by covering the acrylic with some tape, but i prefer the first method.

Great, are you just literally placing a regular sheet of standard printer paper under the area to be engraved and focusing to that?

Yes, simple and efective.

Of course, i use an aluminium sheet under de paper (1mm thickness) for prevent burning the wood working table.

am going to give it a try tonight, additionally do you remove the protective layer off both sides of the acrylic as well prior to engraving with the paper under it?

yes, remove it

So I just gave it a go... i'm getting nothing at all. not even the paper burning. I focused the laser as tight as i could to the paper. I have a piece of wood under the paper and then plexi on top of the paper,removed the protective layers off the plexi. If i take the piece of paper out the wood engraves really dark but with the white paper in it , nothing happens. Does the color of paper make a difference? Any help is appreciated here. Thanks again

Comments deleted.

What laser are you using? current? Can you take picture of your setup?
Try with paint tape on top and focussed to top.

Got it all put together!

Having an issue getting the travel to be smooth though. When i push and pull x and y by hand slowly it feels pretty smooth .. if i push fast it starts to bind. Steppers are skipping as well from speed ... I keep trying to align x and y differently but am not having good results..

Any suggestions?

I was having trouble with jerky movement during my first test run. It turned out to be a bad oversight on my part. I looked at photos and saw that the stepper drivers had three jumpers in to enable microstepping. My drivers did not come with any jumpers so were set to full step by default. Once I got the jumpers and set them all was smooth.

Mar 5, 2015 - Modified Mar 5, 2015
villamany - in reply to mikebaier

Maybe some bearing is damaged due to shock or dirty.
Usually I get a smoother movement a few days after having mounted the machine when all this shot.
You can try cleaning and lubricating inside bearings (i use PTFE oil). On one of my machines had to replace two bearings (it was hearing "click" at high speeds).

Make sure align is smooth during all travels and check your drivers current, if too low or high you can get skipped steps. Do you have same problem on X axis? What is your working area?

Thank you for the quick reply!

I was moving the stepper motors through the 3dp burner application by manual control with a movement of 10, when I did this either on the x or y axis i was getting the skipping. When I use the "homing" feature it works smoothly. I lowered the manual movement to 2 and it works... is there a command I can send to lower the speed of travel for x and y when using the manual movements?
I had previously lubricated with sewing machine oil.

I also checked the and adjusted the current for the stepper drivers but had same results on manual movement

My working area is 400mmx400mm

Additionally i was wondering how i can set the position to center objects on the platform? currently it begins right at the corners of the homing switches. Is there a way to adjust this?

Thanks again for your help.

It's an amazing design that you've done and I'm amazed at how well the parts printed with all of their different elements. Nicely done!

Mar 5, 2015 - Modified Mar 5, 2015
villamany - in reply to mikebaier

3dpBurner Sender uses rapid movments for "manual jogging". Type $$ and press enter on console. You will see all configurable parameters. If you type $110=6000 you will set the max X speed to 6000mm/s
Play with speeds and accelerations to fit your needs. The default values of 12000mm/min are ok for my 210x300 Working area.

Try to mantain acceleration as high as possible for better and smoothing results.

About the centering, I am turning the laser on at minimun power (by S0 M3) and manually adjust the zero corner. The homming switches are not working well for actual limit locations and GRBL, you can tweak it by using the $Nxx startup lines but I preffer to manually adjust the stock material.

That worked like a charm... I was able to get around 6200mm/s to work. Not sure why so much slower then you're able to achieve.

When i go to start a file to burn the y axis moves towards the limit switch and tries to run through the limit switch for a couple seconds before starting to work. If i hit the home button x and y axis hit the limit switches and then offset perfectly.

Any thoughts on what would cause the y axis to move initially when starting a print?

Im getting up to about 20000mm/min max speed on my setup, but lowered to 12000 for prevent shaking issues. Also the max speed im using for burning is only 2000-3000 mm/min with my 9mm 445nm laser, this speed is for picture engraving, for normal engraving is a lower speed... about 1000 -1500 for wood engraving, 210mm/min for 2mm eva foam cutting... so if you use similar laser 6000mm/min is more than enough. Im using these motors http://www.3dpburnershop.blogspot.com/p/mot.html

Put a gcode file suitable for 210x300 working area. I will test and check, maybe postProcessor you use is generating some bad hommig commands for 3dpBurner. What CAM program are you using?

do you have a 3 watt laser and a 3 watt laser driver that you would be looking to sell to me?

Comments deleted.

Started printing the parts tho weekend. Awesome project! Quick question in the electronics diagram, there is a R which I assume is a resistor. What size/type do I need? Sorry, for the dumb question.

Its a pull down resistor (any from 1 to 10k should work). See NOTE 3 and NOTE4 http://3dpburner.blogspot.com.es/p/bill-of-materials.html

Hi, i'm very interresting to change my 3D printer with this option. I would like to know how it possible to cut in mm for wood and paper (type craft) cause i would cutting 5 or 6 mmillimeter in wood support or more of course....
Thank you very much for your video, photos and your contribution, it's amazing, funny and very very interrestinf?
Nel68 - Pessac, France

Thanks, you need a CO2 cutting machine for this purpose. 5mm wood thickness is not very suitable for actual laser diodes

What is the maximum you have cut with your machine? I guess paper and pvc sheets should not be an issue right? and what about thin 1mm wood - like for a xmas window decoration?

i whas lokking at your page would it be possible to give it an i2c lcd and an sd card

I don't know/tested any similar, but maybe you can ask on GRBL project site: https://github.com/grbl/grbl

There are some users using a Raspberry Pi connected to arduino with wifi and sd card feature.

also wondering if you've experimented with the 5 watt lasers from that site at all... I was thinking of upgrading to a higher wattage as I'd like to be able to cut acrylic .. any thoughts on this? I would need a stronger laser driver as well I would imagine.

Only tested the 2w and 3w lasers, the driver im using i get about 2.2A max, so you need another driver. i think these laser diodes are not suitable for cutting acrylic, you need a CO2 laser maybe 40-60W. It can cut but very very slowly

Hey do you have the laser, heatsink, and laser driver that you would be looking to sell for this project?

I would be interested in purchasing if you did

would love a nice parts listing with where to purchase every single piece needed to complete this design. I'm very much considering giving this a go.

where are you finding is the best place to purchase 8mm rod and such

I managed to get it loaded... thanks

Feb 14, 2015 - Modified Feb 14, 2015
villamany - in reply to mikebaier

http://3dpburner.blogspot.com/p/bill-of-materials.html?m=1

I bought most of parts through Ebay.
The 8mm rods was on a local store and i cut to size, but i can supply you if you want. I can buy more rods and cut to desired size. Also have some spare bearings, Arduino, CNC shield and Pololu drivers

Thanks i'm looking for places to purchase the rods now.

Also, I see the link for the grbl files on your blog, however which actual file do I download so that i can open it as a library in the arduino IDE so I can load the grbl to the arduino. I'm having a heck of a time trying to figure out which actual file allows me to do this.

Thanks again for all your help. I absolutely love this project and can't wait to get it working.

I managed to get it loaded... thanks

Remember to remove before the old GRBL library from Arduino library folder when upgrading GRBL, anyway seems that shortly there will be a new GRBL version to open as .ino file

I'm very anxious to build this design. Best I've seen yet:) Only problem is that I'm printing on an Up! Mini with a 4.7 inch cubic build volume. The X idler bridge and motor bridge are just a bit too tall for me to print. Would it hurt the performance of the design if these two pieces were about half an inch shorter? Is it possible for you to post the .stl files for shorter pieces or maybe something in sketchup format so I can shorten them myself? Awesome project! Thanks for the contribution.

Please, let me know if they work :)
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:682682

3dpBurner Bridge parts for UpMini

This looks great. I'm still waiting for some rod to arrive but I'll let you know if these shortened bridges work out. Many thanks!

Any chance you could post up your $$ Grbl settings, just done first run / burn and don't think I've got it set up fast enough, as more charcoal than nice laser cut, Many thanks in advance....

Many thanks again, managed to improve things by increasing some of my existing Grbl setting, but did not expect them to be that high, explains a lot, will have a play over the next couple of days

http://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/Communication_/_Control
Take care, some programs (as GRBL controller) produce a micropause after each line.

This is working fine for me http://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/GcodeSender

Also im working on a simple Gcode sender Windows application for 3dpBurner. Coming soon

Feb 1, 2015 - Modified Feb 1, 2015
CheScott - in reply to villamany

Hrm... Looks like I might have a wiring difference (I did make it up....), just updated to your Grbl Firmware (After a hair ripping experience with Ubuntu and uploading), I have my laser hooked up to a normally open "NO" relay connected to the "Spindle Enable" on the Arduino Shield, No matter what I do now the Laser is on permanently.....How did you hook yours up to support "M03" & "M05"?

Feb 1, 2015 - Modified Feb 1, 2015
villamany - in reply to CheScott

Use the zLimit pin instead the spindleEnable one. For variable spindle (variable laser power) feature you need to use this pin. Also if you are using a relay instead a variable laser driver type $N1=S255 this will ensure 100% dutty cycle for the relay. You can turn laser on with M3 command and M5 to turn it off. And if you use PWM capable driver Sx for set the laser power (S=0 to 255 = 0 to 100% laser power)

Check grbl v0.9 wiring for variable spindle here https://github.com/grbl/grbl/wiki/Connecting-Grbl

Excellent, thanks again for your help.....

I'm printing your parts as I write this, and looking through your BOM carefully. (I'm happy to cannibalize an older Prusa printer for most of the hardware.)

What laser driver do you recommend? I'm having difficulty determining which one you indicate on your blog. Can you provide a link to a compatible one somewhere?

Wonderful concept!

Nice!, waiting your make. I'm using this driver and working fine for now: http://www.ebay.com/itm/405nm-445nm-450nm-520nm-Laser-Drive-200mW-3W-12V-Driver-for-RGB-Laser-with-TTL-/251627812234

You can find it using Google pictures searching by "445nm 405nm driver" and selecting the pictures tab

Excellent. Thank you for the fast reply!

Jan 5, 2015 - Modified Jan 5, 2015

I don't use it long enough but personally i'm using the 9mm 445nm diode from here https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/diode-modules . Note that the seller claim to be a 3W diode and recomended me to use this diode at 2.4A for laser pointers and 2.2A for cotinuous usage on CNC machines. First try was at 2.1A. Pretty power but the cooling block get very hot after 5 min working time. Then I read the datasheet (download from the same seller page) and the reality is: Absolute maximum ratting recommended by the manufacturer is 1.7A !! at this current the diode put out about 1.6-2W. So the seller is overdriving the diode a lot to get 3W. I set my driver down to 1.65A and repeat all tests. At this power no overheating is noticed and it is working well enough after 3h of continuous use. I have booth lens, the 3 elements glass one and the G2. The 3 elements one (cheaper) is much better for this purpose (less optical power but more concentrated).

For the moment no lens contamination notice, the cooling fan push the fumes away the lens... but take care, some fumes are very toxic.

At this last setup i engrave many materials: wood, EVA foam, acrylics, plastics, card board, mirrors (by back side), leather...
I cut: paper, cardboard, vinyl, 4mm plywood!!(but slowly at 80 passes at 500mm/s), 1mm white plastics, fabrics...

It can cut many materials but very slowly for most of them, it is perfect for cut paper, cardboard, EVA foam (i don't test with balsa for now)... For cutting wood and other materials the best is a CO2 laser.

I will post some works, but i have not much time, so i'm updating the blog slowly.

Very cool project.
The engravings look great. Have you been using a diode setup like this long enough to comment on diode life expectancy?
Looks like in the current setup the fumes might contaminate the optics, have you noticed any of that?

I see you cut some foam/rubber, and didn't see any mention on the blog, is the 1.6w able to cut any wood or plastic?
Looks like it might be mostly for engraving. (Which is seems to do quite well.) Unless one is interested in springing for a
larger watt diode.

Thanks for the post.

Comments deleted.
Top