Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!

LEGO Compatible Strandbeest

by rswarner, published

LEGO Compatible Strandbeest by rswarner Mar 14, 2013
2 Share
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Order This Printed View All Apps


Use This Project

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag


Thing Statistics

16480Views 3781Downloads Found in Math Art


This is a leg pair, derived from Theo Jansen's Strandbeest, that is compatible with LEGO Technic. I built a set of these to give to my six year-old, who is pretty excited about robots and our 3D printer. Combined with two LEGO Technic motors, some geartrain parts, and the LEGO IR remote, this becomes a walking robot. I assembled this as a steerable robot with the drive train in the center, and three leg-pairs on each side. The LEGO remote can drive two motors, so I set it up with one motor driving each side, so that the bot can be steered like a tank.

Here's a short video, narrated by my 6 year old: http://youtu.be/0TVsqX-lvMk


To make a walking robot, you will need six leg pairs.

The Strandbeest leg pairs are very fun to watch walk, and though the leg assemblies in each pair are symmetrical, their movements are not! The leg pairs are modular, and they snap together with four snap pins, and an indexed shaft. This allows a modular assembly that carries the crankshaft through each leg pair. The crank washer detail image shows the position of the washer (grey in the image) in between the connecting rods and the crank disk.

The gait of the Jansen legs is designed so that three leg pairs are the equivalent of one wheel. So my design has you coupling the leg pairs at 120 degrees from one another. To make a complete walking bot, you will need six leg pairs (twelve legs). I will put together some parts plates soon to simplify this.

You will need to print (per leg pair):

1 ea Body Back Shell
1 ea Body Cap
1 ea Body End
1 ea Crank
2 ea PelvisHipA
2 ea PelvisHipB
2 ea KneeFootA
2 ea KneeFootB
2 ea PelvisToC
2 ea BackOfLegToC
4 ea KneeToHip
4 ea Claw-Grooved
1 ea Washer

There is also some hardware, and of course some LEGOs required to make this work. Specifically, you will need some Technic (the blocks with holes through them) parts, indexed shafts (48 mm, black or grey with a + shaped profile), and several little black snap pins. A pair of motors, some gears, and the IR remote go really well with this! I will upload a photo of this group of required parts soon.

I have work to do on the part names. These are derivative of the way they are named here: http://geogebrawiki.pbworks.com/w/page/11911516/Strandbeest

The geometry of each leg is comprised of two right triangles (actually two triangle sandwiches), and two identical struts that form a parallelagram between the two triangles. The points of the upper triangle are the pelvis, hip, and Point A. The points of the lower triangle are the Knee, Ankle, and Foot. I'm sure this will be confusing, but refer the the site above for an explanation. Point C is where all the connecting rods attach to the crank with the indexed LEGO shaft.

These files should be printed with 0.35 mm layer heights. The Z axis dimensions are all multiples of this number so that you can get very close to a LEGO-compatible dimension in all axes. I use a Printrbot+ with a 0.5 mm nozzle, and I have printed this in ABS. I used 25% honeycomb infill with two skin layers with good results. For strength, orient the long parts on your print bed so the grain of the skin layers is diagonal compared to the long axis of the part (my printer will do this if the parts are aligned to the Y axis). The + shaped holes for the indexed shafts are a tight interference fit, and the larger round holes should provide a running fit on those shafts. When you go to assemble the crank disk in the body back shell and body cap, you may have to do some cleaning of the parts with simple hand tools. A small amount of synthetic bicycle grease inside this assembly really helps keep this running smoothly. There are so many points of friction in these assemblies that you need to pay close attention to how tightly you assemble the joints. It all adds up. But so does the slop, so don't go too loose either!

This is designed to be assembled with 6-32 hardware. Some of the parts have "A" or "B" in their names. You'll see that the "A" types have holes that give a slip fit on the 6-32 screws, whereas the "B" versions have a sort-of self-tapping fit. In addition to the 6-32 hardware, you will need four (per leg pair - two per foot) #11 neoprene O-rings, available in the plumbing aisle of your home improvement big box. These provide traction for walking on slick surfaces. The "claw" part is meant to be secured tightly in the foot, not to roll. I just settled on O-rings for simplicity. I will upload an image of the required 6-32 hardware soon. Most of the leg assembly uses 1/2" pan head screws. The Body Cap and Back Shell are held together with 3/8" countersunk screws. The joint where the Back of Leg to C connecting rod connects to the Ankle (third angle on the KneeFoot part) uses a 3/4" pan head, which is a little too long but it works. The Body assembly is held together with two 1 1/4" pan heads, with the heads flush in their counterbores.

6-32 hardware (per leg pair assembly):
8 ea 6-32 1/2" pan head
2 ea 6-32 3/4" pan head
2 ea 6-32 1 1/4" pan head
4 ea 6-32 3/8" countersunk

Orientation of the screws (and the corresponding "A" and "B" triangular parts):

The detail photos of the printed parts show the orientation of the screw heads in the leg assemblies. NOTE: these prints were a previous revision, so some parts look slightly different in these photos, but the assembly process is the same. All of the screws in one leg will go in from the same side. In the assembled leg pair, one leg is flipped. One will have all of its screw heads on one side, and the other will have its screw heads on the other side.

The only part that requires support material is the Body Back Shell, due to the counterbores for the pan head screws. The small counterbores for the LEGO snap pins seem to work fine without support material. YMMV with extruder nozzles smaller than 0.5 mm.

More from Math Art

view more

All Apps

3D Print your file with 3D Hubs, the world’s largest online marketplace for 3D printing services.

App Info Launch App

This App connects Thingiverse with Makeprintable, a cloud-based mesh repair service that analyzes, validates and repairs most common mesh errors that can occur when preparing a 3D design file for p...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Would be great if you could post more pictures of the assembled pieces, I'm having real trouble trying to match what is where using only 1 or 2 images

Great! I can print it on a B9Creator for my kids!
I'll give you feedback and share my Make!

Great! Looking forward to seeing it!

That's a great design.
Could you post a detail instruction drawing? It's somehow difficult to assemble.
Thanks a lot.

Sorry for the delayed reply. I've been away from Thingiverse busy with work. I'll try to add an exploded view and edit te text a bit. Sorry for the difficulty.

Great model and video (especially the commentary) - I love the way it turns.

If you've previously downloaded the files, make sure they are all .stl's I had mistakenly uploaded some .ipt files. It's all fixed now.

Any chance you could re-upload the .ipt / Inventor files?

Coming right up!

Added to my collection! A video would be great.....

Video shows my son menacing a cup of tea. This shows an earlier revision of the body assembly, but you'll get the idea!

where do I find the video?

Sorry. I had it in the files section. Now there's a link to it in the description.

That's awesome. Great job!