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non-grinding feeder for Ultimaker

by jakob, published

non-grinding feeder for Ultimaker by jakob Mar 15, 2013

Description

This feeder can handle retractions with no problems and your filament will stop slipping or grinding. You do not need to use "proprietary" Ultimaker 2.85mm filament anymore as this feeder can handle 3mm and will not deform the filament. From now on you can use 3mm filament with the stock bowden and you will have no problems with jamming.

OpenSCAD File is really ugly... needs a lot of cleanup...

Update (2013-07-25):
The design has several problems:
1. Distance between gears is difficult to adjust.
2. Bolts get loose when retracting filament. I used loctite screwlock.
3. Rubber rollers were too soft and wear was too high. Replaced them by knurled steel rollers -> Maybe higher shore hardness rubber rollers would also do...
4. Added springs for better contact pressure.
5. Sometimes the variable part bends away and the gears jump over the teeth. -> Needs to be fixed by fixed by a guide on the left and right side or by a linear bearing.
6. The bowden clamp riser has a too big bore which leads to clinched filament if high pressure occurs. Don't know if this is really a problem because I used 2.2mm filament and had a clogged nozzle... -> fixed this by a aluminum part (see picture). Maybe we could also fix this by modifying the printed parts.s

Recent Comments

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So your solution to the grinding problem is to add more contact surface between filament and bolt by adding another bolt and further reducing friction by actively driving the counter-bearing (instead of passive drive like in Bertho's design). This is cool! I had a similar idea but my intention was just to add a second drive-bolt.

This should also change the maximum force that is applied onto the filament and therefor the pressure drop over the nozzle, which in turn should increas maximum print speed. Have you testet on an increased print speed?

I am interested, because i am always working on increasing speed. Have you ever experienced the motor being choked by the filament?

Greets Jump
I use peltier elements for pumping the heat from steppers and electronics into the heated bed. Therefore I need less energy than just using a pcb heater, my steppers run cooler and I don't need the fan for the electronics.
O.o Watercooled steppers?!?
how fast are you gonna print on this thing?

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Instructions

You will need:
- 14 bearings 618/6-2RS (6x13x5mm)
- some screws, nuts, and washers (M3, M5, M6)
- bowden clamp: thingiverse.com/thing:17027
- rubber rollers
I used these pollin.de/shop/dt/MTE0ODU1OTk-/Heimwerkerbedarf_Eisenwaren/Laufrollen_Raeder/Lauf_Transportrolle_17_mm_4_Stueck.html
and cut a M6 thread into the hole. Maybe you can get some from an old printer or copier. It should also work with a knurled wheel. The deformation shold then still be less than with stock feeder as the pressure is much lower.

I printed the parts in PLA with 30% infill. Heatbed would be useful to prevent warping but it also worked without one. The bearing holes were a bit too large and I had to use epoxy glue to fill the space. I recommend to calibrate the printer.

So your solution to the grinding problem is to add more contact surface between filament and bolt by adding another bolt and further reducing friction by actively driving the counter-bearing (instead of passive drive like in Bertho's design). This is cool! I had a similar idea but my intention was just to add a second drive-bolt.

This should also change the maximum force that is applied onto the filament and therefor the pressure drop over the nozzle, which in turn should increas maximum print speed. Have you testet on an increased print speed?

I am interested, because i am always working on increasing speed. Have you ever experienced the motor being choked by the filament?

Greets Jump
I use peltier elements for pumping the heat from steppers and electronics into the heated bed. Therefore I need less energy than just using a pcb heater, my steppers run cooler and I don't need the fan for the electronics.
O.o Watercooled steppers?!?
how fast are you gonna print on this thing?
Thanks for the new photos! It's good to know that I solved the puzzle. I just printed a gear1 in weed whacker filament (first time printing nylon) and it should be usable. If I find the time to finish the project or develop it further, I'll post my progress. Dual counter rotating drive drums--what could be better? :)
OK, uploaded a few photos. and updated description. At the moment I don't have enough time to work on the feeder. Block1 needs to be redesigned and this would solve most problems. Please note that this is a very experimental design but it works really good for me and hundrets of retractions are no problem.
Gee--thanks for the puzzle. ;) It would be a nice puzzle hint to know how many of each gear is necessary. (4- "gear1," 4-"gear2," and one of each of the others). An even better hint would be a photo or graphic showing the three gear2s that are invisible in the photo on the side opposite the big gear!

I haven't built it or even printed the parts yet, but I think that's how many are needed and I think I understand how it goes together.
the more recent models of ultimaker have a spring loaded extruder.
LOL, why not add a couple of dummy gears and give it some fancy steampunk design....
Yeaah, with some dummy cuckoos and ant-like legs going in & out :D
Will you provide an instructions manual for this?
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