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DaVinci 1.0 Extruder Heatsink Cooling Shroud

by KDan, published

DaVinci 1.0 Extruder Heatsink Cooling Shroud by KDan Jan 7, 2015
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Summary

There have been other fan shrouds created, but I wanted something to focus most of the airflow onto the heatsink while trying to absolutely minimize airflow disturbances in the nozzle/heater block area.
Drawing air directly over a hot, just-printed ABS layer is a recipe for warping and delamination!

This shroud uses the stock heatsink, and fits as snugly as possible while still allowing clearance for the heating cartridge and thermistor wires. It will clear the carriage when installing, but you must carefully route the heater cartridge wires against the chamfered corner of the shroud as shown in the photos. You also might want to apply kapton or metal tape to several areas around the extruder metal housing where there are air leaks.

UPDATE: New pictures added to show location of cutouts for proper routing of thermistor wires. Also pictures to show air leak locations that should be sealed!

PLEASE READ THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR OTHER IMPORTANT INFORMATION.

Instructions

IF YOU DON"T READ ALL OF THE INSTRUCTIONS - PLEASE READ THIS FIRST PARAGRAPH!

After experimenting with the fan blowing both ways, it has become clear that it MUST be mounted to suck air up through the shroud - NOT blowing air into it. If blowing air in, there is too much airflow around the hotend and the part. This may cause difficultly in getting the hotend up to temperature. It may also aggravate part warpage.
I have also applied a piece of Kapton tape to cover the gap between the bottom of the duct on the shroud and the carriage to try to eliminate airflow in the hotend area even more. I strongly advise doing this - it works.

Thermal heatsink compound applied to the heatsink (and in my case to the extra thermal barrel heatsink) greatly improves the heat transfer and significantly improves the potential for printing PLA.
I used DOW 340 Silicone heatsink compound, but if you have some Arctic Silver lying around, use that!

I sliced this with Slic3r and set the support material overhang threshold to 74 degrees. This will leave the uppermost layers of the duct unsupported, but it should bridge OK. I also used a 3mm brim around the part.

Note the small cutouts with radiused edges I've put on the right side for routing the thermistor wires.

I tried to size the fan mounting holes so that the original screws could be used and they would self-thread into ABS.

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i just don't have any of those problems printing pla it's all i use on my davinci due to strength. but i was thinking of useing it for flexible filament and see if that will print to. so your quite simply saying block the bottom if i use this?

This is for the DaVinci V1.0. According to your profile, you have a Duo. The newer DaVinci's apparently print PLA OK.

yes i do have the duo. it seems when i do monitor the temps the abs is set to 214c and pla is set to 194c. i guess i thought pla should be hotter to not jam right? so anyway there is no sensor to really know what it is printing i think so i have mine set to abs and i get the 214c while really using pla, it works prints great. and i bought the xyzcart it suppose to change color temps for bed and extruders and reset filament. but it does not it only resets and changes color and aabs pla setting it wont control temps at all! it reads as if it did work on eeprom but when you look at your monitor it did not change temps anywhere. so i only have 2 settings for that abs or pla. make sense? i have emailed them but the xyzcart people refuse to answer me after i told them the problem. i am still going to print this.

This is great!

P.S. I add a bit of thermal paste to the heatsink that this shroud concentrated the airflow over. Helps remove just enough heat from the barrel to allow PLA to print

KDan - in reply to ebat

I'm glad it's working for you. That was the sole purpose of the design. Unfortunately there were a few people who never quite understood that. You can print PLA without a layer cooling fan, but you can't print PLA if your extruder is constantly jamming up. I was able to print PLA with it reliably as long as I kept the temperature in the proper range.

My DaVinci doesn't get much use anymore and I do all of my PLA printing on a Kossel these days.

How exactly did you remove the old drive wheel? did you have to cut it off because on my machine it appears to be one piece

The original drive wheel is a press fit. You either need a puller, or cut it off. I cut it off.
See: http://voltivo.com/forum/davinci-hwmods/746-upgrading-stock-drive-gear-and-idler#6282
Second picture.

Thanks. My machine has over 1,400 hours on it at this point and the extruder is starting to click and having issues feeding. You can see the wear on the drive wheel so I'll be needing to replace it.

Wow, 1400 hours! Mine has about 281 hours. Bought it in December.
Have you noticed any other wear? How are the slide rail bushings holding up?

hey could you please upload your old design with the cutout in it. I am using It in my design and I would like to put a link to your design in my instructions. Thanks

There is no old design with a "cutout" in it. At least, not from me. There was a modified version of this STL up for a while that did not attribute the source of the design, but that person has apparently taken it down.
Please note: License type has now been changed to Attribution - Non-Commercial - No Derivatives because of that version which completely destroyed the purpose of this design.
If you are looking for a layer cooling fan duct for printing PLA, you need a different part design. This one is designed to AVOID circulating air around the hotend for printing ABS. It focuses all of the cooling air on the thermal barrier tube heatsink. Please read the first comments on Jan 7th.

Mar 30, 2015 - Modified Mar 30, 2015
tbadera - in reply to KDan

Destroyed? Did you ever even try it? Must have worked if people are asking for it.

BTW - I did post it with credit to your originally, but you came in and acted butthurt that I changed your design. I don't gain anything from showing people how to improve their printers, so I took it down. Not worth the arguments.

Re-read what I said - it "destroyed the original purpose of the design". And that is exactly what it did. I've explained the technical details of how and why over and over again. Obviously, you aren't interested in that.

Your modifications would likely improve layer cooling for someone trying to print PLA. But for ABS, that is precisely the wrong thing to do. I'm sorry if you are not technically astute enough to grasp that. As I've already pointed out, you really need a dedicated layer cooling fan that can be controlled by M-codes on a machine that will be called upon to print both ABS and PLA.

If you believe in your concept, why not design you own original part rather that poking holes in someone else's STL file and then telling them what they did wrong without ever understanding it's original purpose? Most other people clearly did - and the comments here and elsewhere reflect that.

Mar 30, 2015 - Modified Mar 30, 2015
tbadera - in reply to KDan

Still didn't try it, talking out your ass. Don't worry, I read your comments fine the first time "blah blah blah butthurt" and "I know everything about 3d printing so bow to me"... 10-4 buddy

What do I know, I've only been working with computer cooling systems for 17 years.

BTW - changing your license after the fact doesn't affect me, when I modified the model the license allowed it... and that's the license I agreed to... might want to be more careful in the future, you could have prevented all of this butthurtedness

Mar 30, 2015 - Modified Apr 1, 2015
KDan - in reply to tbadera

There's not much more I can add at this point. Your level of intelligence pretty much speaks for itself.

BTW - You violated the original license agreement by changing the license type while mine was still in effect. It remains in effect until I (or you) take it down. You might want to be more careful... Read the fine print.

I invite you once again to create an original work based upon the concept you believe is better than mine. Prove me wrong. I welcome competition, but not plagiarism. I don't want hacked versions of my work circulating when the duplication is so blatantly obvious that people think I designed the part. (as in the case of tonay88)

The reason I didn't "try" it is the same reason I didn't try every other part on Thingiverse claiming to be some sort of DaVinci cooler or shroud. I recognized that they weren't designed to do what I was looking to do - i.e. to cool the thermal barrier tube without blowing air over the just extruded layer of ABS.

Mar 19, 2015 - Modified Mar 19, 2015

I got a private email from someone asking why I didn't just design the part in a way that the kapton tape at the bottom was not necessary.

Good question.

I tried. Unfortunately there has to be clearance to install the unit in the carriage. If anyone has an idea of a better way to seal that gap, please let us know. The doubled over kapton tape is the best method I've discovered so far.

Where did you get the bearings for the Idler wheel? Mine is having issues and was looking into upgrading/replacing them. Keeps clicking after so much on filament no matter what I clean or do. 3rd party or XYZ doesn't matter.

Mar 8, 2015 - Modified Mar 8, 2015
KDan - in reply to sroyalty

You may need more cooling.

1) Add heatsink compound (Dow 340, or even Arctic Silver) on the filament barrel tube where it goes through the aluminum block.

2) Add a secondary heatsink on top of that same aluminum bar. You must keep it small so as to not interfere with the idler/drive wheel, or interfere with installation of the unit in the carriage. I machined my own that threads onto the barrel, but a small flat one will also work. For an example, look here: http://voltivo.com/forum/davinci-peersupport/399-da-vinci-and-pla?start=60#4844

The ball bearings were from the tail rotor shaft of an old Trex 450 RC helicopter. But all you need is pair of 3x8x3mm (MR83ZZ) ball bearings. You can get them anywhere that sells ball bearings - there must be a million places. Other sizes that have a 3mm ID could also work. I'd recommending boring out the drive wheel to the bearing OD size with a lathe in order to get precise fit and precise centering.

The last item that will help a lot (but you must have adequate cooling first) is a better drive wheel. Check out this picture:
http://voltivo.com/forum/davinci-peersupport/399-da-vinci-and-pla?start=140#5829

I bought that drive wheel at RobotDigg for $3.50 (you can get similar ones on eBay, etc) The wire EDM cut ones are top notch.
http://www.robotdigg.com/product/73/RobotDigg-Filament-Drive-Gear

Is that drive wheel installable without removing the stepper?

It would be if you could get the old one off without removing the stepper.
I removed the stepper and then cut the old wheel off with a dremel tool.
See: http://voltivo.com/forum/davinci-hwmods/746-upgrading-stock-drive-gear-and-idler#6282

no more jams! , that peice of tape on the bottom isolating the hotend is a must. works great! do you guys have issues sticking pla to the bare glass ?

I have the fan blowing into the extruder and it has been helping with my terrible overhangs quite a bit, But I have yet to wrap the nozzle so it is having a hard time getting up to temperature. Haven't seen any delamination yet.

For what you are trying to do, you should be using layer cooling fan. This shroud was specifically designed to cool the filament feeder tube.

Hi, I made one of these shrouds, no other mods, and now my hotend doesnt heat up properly. I set it to 230 C but it doesnt get past 225 C. Do you think its related to the shroud? Anyone else having similar problems?

Feb 11, 2015 - Modified Feb 13, 2015
KDan - in reply to krockstrom

Which direction is your fan blowing? The shroud works much better if it is drawing air OUT - not blowing inward.

You might try sealing up all of the other the air leaks.

The most important areas to seal are the opening behind the spring that puts tension on the idler, and the other is the gap between the lower lip of the shroud and the carriage. The shroud could not be designed to fit any tighter in this area because clearance was required to allow metal housing (with the shround and fan attached) to be installed into the carriage. This gap can produce unwanted airflow in the hotend area, but it is much worse if you have the fan pointing the wrong way.

I always seal up this lower gap with kapton tape or metal tape anyway.

You need to attach the tape to the carriage, and then leave a flap for it to rest up against the bottom lip of the shroud duct.

I'll try to attach a photo in the instructions if I get a chance.

If you still can't get up to temp, then you probably have a problem with the heater cartridge or thermistor not making good thermal contact with the hotend.

I've easily got my hotend up over 250C with the shroud in place.

One final thing you can do that is always a good idea on any hotend is to insulate the heater block. Some people use ceramic or fiberglass tape (NOT packing tape!) and then cover it with kapton tape to hold it in place. This will allow your hotend to maintain temperature much better even when you have a fan blowing directly on the print area (which is often the case with PLA).

You need to attach the tape to the carriage, and then leave a flap for it to rest up against the bottom lip of the shroud duct.

Despite your excellent pictures, I did not quite get it until I read that line. That clarifies it perfectly, my suggestion is to add that to the instructions tab.

Yes switching the direction of the fan to suck the air seems to work, it reached 230 without any problems. Will see how or if it affects the prints

Feb 3, 2015 - Modified Feb 3, 2015

Excellent news jt122333 !

I've ordered some PLA to try. If that works, I'll order a Colorfabb sample pack which has Bronzefill and Woodfill.

Just to clarify, the only mod you have is the shroud ?
Did you open the top lid or front door while printing ? And what temps are you using ?

(Sorry for all the questions, just very excited about this and can't wait to try it)

IT'S WORKING! The funny thing is that I had a new small heatsink that came with a new raspberry pi so I threw that on by attaching it next to the bolt around the tube, added some thermal paste and your shroud, put it back together and it worked worse, it actually had worse creep. I assumed this was due to my placement of the heatsink and my sloppy thermal pasting, took it back apart, removed sink and paste. Printing out in copperfill right now, no stupid clicking/jams at all. Extremely happy!

It seems that several people are reporting success printing PLA using the shroud and heatsink compound. I decided to order some PLA today to try it myself.

Thanks for the update!
Greg

@ jt122333, I'm REALLY interested to see how you get on with the copperfill.
Keep us posted. ;-)

Printing this out now, going to try some copperfill with it, will let you know.

I have been trying for days now to get PLA to print. I have tried this part as well as a couple of others and I just can't seem to get the printer to finish a part without jamming. I think your idea of the threaded heat sink would help substantially. Did you get around to having that created?

Feb 2, 2015 - Modified Feb 2, 2015
KDan - in reply to asperkins

Yes, I did. But still have not tried any PLA. Others have and apparently it works beautifully with a small secondary heatsink.
See http://voltivo.com/forum/davinci-peersupport/399-da-vinci-and-pla?start=60#4844

Picture of my heatsink here: http://voltivo.com/forum/davinci-firmware/239-cooling-fans-for-extruded-plastic-and-the-tool-head?start=40#4468

Using thermal compound may be the biggest factor in achieving success.

is this for the stock 1.0 not the 1.0 AIO. I have the very first version of the da vinci, will it work? Thanks

It's for the 1.0 not the AIO. Not sure if there is really any difference.

I decided to cover most of the other openings with kapton tape. Around the connectors on both sides and also the large opening right above the extruder stepper motor where the spring is. Trying to reduce the air leaks to force as much air as possible over the heatsink.

Next project will to add a second fan and recompile the firmware to allow it to be controlled by Repetier for selective cooling.

This looks fantastic! (see what I did there?)

Jan 7, 2015 - Modified Jan 7, 2015

Brilliant! You've read my mind :) This is exactly what I was after, modifying the other fan shroud to prevent the air flow from hitting the hot-end, remove the clips and use the original screws to secure it to the extruder. This should work a lot better for PLA! Unfortunately my printer is out of service now, the board being replaced, so I won't be able to try it just yet. But before it broke I had a similar setup with some layers of aluminum foil installed underneath the heat sink to block the air flow to the hot-end, just like on your design, and it did make the temps stable again, even with my overpowered stock fan running at 8.8v.

It seems tricky to print though, with so many overhangs. I'm eager to try it!

Jan 7, 2015 - Modified Mar 22, 2015
KDan - in reply to oscahie

I originally wanted to duct the cooling air straight out horizontally or even somewhat upwards, but the extruder carriage just doesn't allow you much room. I tried several iterations that just wouldn't fit.

One other idea that I want to try with this version is to put a piece of kapton tape over the gap between the bottom of the lower air duct and the bottom of the carriage. That should help to eliminate any air leakage towards to bed and hotend.

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