6 x 6 Inch Glass Bed Clips for Printrbot Jr.
by phraust, published
After three generations of so-so results (lots of slippage, and they tended to reduce my X-Axis travel by getting in the way), I've settled on this to mount it. It also uses some of those little Goody brand rubber bands to keep tension, something like $2 at the grocery store, some springs I found at Home Depot (8mm ID / 20mm Uncompressed Length), and some #4 nuts and bolts.
Printing directly on to the glass has had mixed results. Since I don't have a heater, I've tried both with and without PLA "Juice", bare glass, and on painters tape.
Printing on bare glass makes for beautiful print surface results. The bottoms come out looking like a mirror. The problem is the parts don't stick very well. Tried smooshing the bottom layer, still dislodges whenever there is too much sideways force.
With the PLA Juice (elmers glue + water), it printed okay. I still had issues with sticking on longer prints. I heard I'm supposed to use PLAc glue, but I have no idea what that is. Might try it next time I stop by the hardware store.
I'm currently running with the blue tape, so this gives it a little extra bite around the corners.
In the end, I got a super-flat build platform that is way easier to clean and retape compared to the plywood. I also don't have to worry about the warping issue I had before, though with the added X-Y tension, it may migrate down the to X Carriage.
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I started using Elmers glue stick on unheated glass when printing with PLA. Find the kind that starts purple and drys clear. The problem I have now is getting it off the glass. A little water around the print usually does the trick.
It is 98 cents for two glue sticks at Walmart. I tried a lot of different glues and blue tape and this works the best.
hi i have a printrbot jr and every time i print something for example this design the Z axis dosnt move up enough . how do i fix this please help.
You may want to try putting a thermistor (usually under $2) and NiChrome flat-wire (sub $5 for enough to cover the 6x6 bed) taped to the underside of your glass. Once wired into the heated bed pins on the Printrboard, you can get an easy, cheap and effective heated glass bed.
I recently put one together and I'd get enough heat to print right onto the glass. With the help of a 20k 10ohm resistor, you can get the bed hot enough for ABS sticking too.
Great clip method!
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4 x #4 Bolts (Similar to ones that came with the Printrbot Jr.)
4 x #4 Nuts (Same thing, similar to the ones that came with it.)
4 x Springs (I got a little baggy of 6 springs from Home Depot, smallest ones I could find, I.D. of 8mm / height of about 20mm).
1. Print. I used 10% Infill, 2 Perimeters, with support.
2. Clean off the support structures, file down anything that gets in the way.
3. Assemble them.
They are laid out int he STL the same way they fit on my Printrbot Jr. I placed the #4 bolt in the clip first, then the spring on the bottom, the spring holder, then the knob and the bolt underneath.
I found that without the spring holder, the bottom of the spring would move around after long prints and throw my level off. I also had to cut off the bottoms of my #4 bolts so they wouldn't get stuck on the screws underneath the X Carriage. Depending on the screws you use, you might have to do the same.
4. Add the rubber bands.
They use 4 rubber bands to keep tension on the glass plate, stretched around each of the outer pegs (you can see them in the picture).
On my previous builds, they'd start to wander and the glass bed would end up sliding around. Sor far, It's worked pretty well. You might want to stretch them out first, to get them easier to put on.
5. Add glass.
I just fit the left side in, then the right, and pressed the front and back sides to get a good hold of the glass.
6. That's it!
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