by smartfriendz, published

SmartrapCore by smartfriendz Feb 25, 2015
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06-08: : plates stl was not manifold in slic3r. Now they have been repaired in netfabb basic. it works everywhere.
06-06: : add some accessories like ramps support . Support for endstopY and some little debugs. It's going more and more clean now to assemble. Thank you to all from the community for feedback.
05-28: version 1.2.2" : some debug of 1,2 + new places for endstop X/Y . X goes under head , so cable can go with the head cables , Y goes on the right wall, fixed. no more danging cables for endstops.
04-10: little update . was alignment problem between Yslides and XYbearings
04-09 : Version 1.2 : Big changes everywhere but extruder :
-> bearingsXY : now fix on the side ,more easy to build and far more solid on the Y rod ( it was breaking too easy)
-> Head : new one piece part , was problem with assembly. when you fix, parts are not aligned and bearings become hard. was not stable enough
-> new inductive support : more solid and lower
-> new slideY : far more solid, Xrods are further away , we have now an iso assembly (allmost)
-> new Zslide : more solid, bigger, we fix the plank with 4 wood screws . no need to counterdrill anymore.

03-13 : new plate 2 : Ztop bearing and GT2 hole too small. The belt was touching the part !
03-06: new plates : reinforced Y support on bearingsXY, screws holes on Yslide, now only one Yslide has endstop support
02-28: new plate2 : ztop was bad oriented.
02-27 : new plates. not necessary to update : holes for jhead support in head was too low for 8mm rod version. update for compatibility. not important for this version 6mm XY rods.
02-27: new plate2 . Jhead attach with inductive sensor was not well oriented on the plate

link to the smartrapcore / smartrap group with lot of accessories :

This is the new model out of the http://smartfriendz.com lab !

new video : https://youtu.be/7opAXs0lU5o

The video chanel is mixed with our smartrap project. There is not much videos for now about the smartrapcore, but it's coming, especially the full assembly video serie !

This kit is ready to sell and published here , exactly like the smartrap project wich was a frank success on the open source side.. thank you to all !

To have something different from the Smartrap, we started the project from a coreXY base and made it as simple as the Smartrap to assemble and update.

The box doesn't have any cut and there is no special or too precise operation to do to assemble this model. Printed elements are simply put on top of the box ans screwed with simple wood srews.

The sources are written in code in openjscad and published on youmagine : https://www.youmagine.com/designs/smartcore

There will be "certainly" a customizable version here in openscad,
I'm working on it too .

Here you can find the stl files for a common choice of elements :

  • 10mm wood
  • Nema17
  • X and Y rods in 6mm and Z rods in 8mm .

With the openjscad, you get options for Wood thickness, nema size, rods size , printable size .
You can choose the "what to show" selector to have :

  • all assembly
  • parts plates to export ( be carefull, it works direct in cura but not in slic3r, you need to repair parts with netfab basic for it )
  • wood and dos sizes ( printed on models ).
  • separate elements.

You can ofcourse play with it and edit the file as you want .. the source is quiet clean ( even if scary at first read :) .

Soon to come :

  • BOM
  • assembly videos
  • integrated assembly in the openjscad file.



Wood : 4 planks sized like output in openjscad. Thickness is as you like.

Printed parts : please use the output of openjscad related to your parameters

Screws: 6 x M3x30 / 6 x M3x25 / 10 x M3x16 / 10 x M3x10 / 5 x M3 nuts / 12 x 3.5 wood screw flat head! / 5 x M8x25

Rods: 4 rods XY , diameter and length like in parameters. 2 rods Z , like in parameters.

Stepper motors : 4 ( X Y Z extruder) nema17. Can be 40mm or 48mm length.

electronics: can be any reprap electronics. we develop with ramps 1.4.

Inductive sensor: LJ18A3-8-Z/BX

Hotend: Jhead type.

Bearings: 10 x 608zz. 4 lm8uu . 8 lm6uu ( or 12 lm8uu if rodsXY 8mm).

Bowden cable: 70 cm . in diameter 2 , out diameter 4.

GT2 belt 6mm : around 3 meters . See openjscad related to your parameters

GT2 pulleys : 3 x 20 teeth.

pressfit : 2 x 4mm with M6 thread.

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SmartrapCore by smartfriendz is licensed under the GNU - GPL license.

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If the frame is slightly uneven (not perfectly level) will the inductive sensor compensate for that and adjust the bed as each layer is printed?

Why not a 8mm rod version ? With same 1/8" walls ?

Can you use a E3D v6 hotend with this? Or do you need a J-Head?

Hello i'm new with 3dprinting. I have a solidoodle like printer and i'm using a geeetech mk8 extruder in it. Can i use it in this design? i'm thinking of remaking my printer with this design. I have all the electronics. and would like to reuse most of them as to reduce the cost.

Thanks guys! :)

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Hey, wanted to mention that I have a spin of this using Vslot for the X axis, and it works really well. It resists some of the twisting I had seen with 8mm rods.


I'll get my copies of the SCADs up on my fork, feel free to make use of it yourselves!

Hi! Does anybody have a list of of components with links to Aliexpress (with the number of parts, e.g., in Excel)?

what is the highest speed ?

hi..can u please help with the firmware.
i have a problem with enabling z motor to hold the print bed x seconds.{the problem is ,the z motor is not enabled enough time and the printbed fall down and start to print in the air} ,i am usig heatbed.
thk u .

Jan 8, 2016 - Modified Jan 8, 2016
laxde - in reply to quicksound

In "Configuration_adv.h" change the following deactive time. If set to 0, it is disabled and will not deactive stepper motors.
//default stepper release if idle

thk u for your help.

I've been using my SmartRapCore for awhile now and it's really great once built.

The Z platform is a little bit wobbly since it's all plastic. I wonder if you could use some SC10UU bearing blocks and 2020 extrusions to make a more stable Z platform.

Dec 13, 2015 - Modified Dec 15, 2015

Looks nice! printed all parts.. but came to the conclution that I need to use 8mm rods all around..
Tried to use OpenJSCAD but could not get it right.
Can anyone upload a remix with 8mm rods and 12mm wood?


same problem here !
please fix it?
the v1.2 with lmu8 / 8mm rods on x/y/z axis

[Remix] SmartRapCore 8mm / LM8UU - 12mm wood frame

Same here. No lm8u bearings fit in the holes, even after opening and modifying the OpenJSCAD.

Dec 16, 2015 - Modified Dec 16, 2015
MonZon - in reply to nwsheppard

is there like in OpenJSCAD a menu, where you can insert the desired sizes ( eg 10mm or 12mm wood, 8mm rods etc) ?
I have certainly not enough knowledge of Onshape, to be able to change the drawing to fit the 8mm rods or 10mm wood, in my case. .

This comment has been deleted.

is there someone who can tell me how I can connect Z-probe to the ramps? Wiring diagram will be really good!

Nov 16, 2015 - Modified Nov 16, 2015

Im new to 3d printing but want to print this. What settings in cura should I use for the best/fasted outcome?

I've printed this in PLA at 0.3 layer height, 50% infill (too much for some parts), shell thickness 0.8, bottom/top thickness 0.9, 60 mm/s @ 0.4mm nozzle.

anybody who can share the firmware for this printer?

The Marlin firmware files can be downloaded from SmartFriendz github repository:


Note that the firmware is version 1.0.1, so a little dated. It did work pretty well for me though. I have sense updatd to 1.0.2

I have been watching this design since you posted it Serge, I even have the V1 parts from you. Time to print up the current parts and finally (finally) assemble it. I can add it to my growing printer farm!

I have a question ,why you gays choose the LJ18A3-8-Z/BX not the LJC18A3-8-Z/BX???

Nov 1, 2015 - Modified Nov 1, 2015

Alright I finally got everything working but I can't print faster than 30mm/s or my metal extruder just can't push the filament through the hot end fast enough. This is m first time going bowden so I'm sure it's something simple I'm missing. So far I have tried putting more pressure on the screw applying force to the filament, lowering the acceleration, lowering the max feedrate of the E axis to 30mm/s (sad but it works). and increasing the heat. Nothing besides decreasing the speed seemed to work. I'm printing a test marvin (from 3d hubs now) and everything looks great I just need to be able to print faster.


Hey Guys!

Just about to finish my smartrapcore (yay)..

How ever, i have an issue with the wiring for the hot end and the PTFE bowden tube.. It seems to be affecting my hotend and inductive sensor during probing, resulting in one point beeing too close to the bed.

Do you guys know any way to "relief" the cables? and there for releasing some of the pressure it applies on the hotend mount?

My smartrapcore is 300x300x300mm, if that has anything to say.

it sounds a litle strange to me ? maybe the bowden is too short ? or cables, simply ? in that case we solder some cable extensions.
300x300 , that sounds great. I hope we will see some pics ? or even a new build here ?
thank you

As a side note, i printed the V1.0.1 - Should i upgrade for the v1.2 sliding bits?

101 should be fine.
It's good to update every 2 or 3 evolutions though , you see a nice difference. Updates are also integrating user's experiences and feedback about what was the most anoying , or hard to adjust.

Thank you for the feedback!

I tried wrapping up my cables and bowden tubes just for the looks of it, and this seems to have reliefed the pressure quite a bit :D
It's now printing close to perfect :)

And obv. i will put up some pictures :P just have to give it some looks first!

Quick question: My X0,Y0 is in the back left of the printer instead of the front left. Any idea on how to make the X0,Y0 be in the front left? If it helps, I'm using a RAMPS 1.4 and Marlin.

I ended up fixing it through trial-and-error. I needed to swap the X & Y stepper motor plugs and then flip the plug for the Y stepper motor (now connected to the X driver).

good try :) I'm sorry i wanted to look how to do that here but didn't find the time to find the right solution.. i see you found out :)

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Which is more up to date, the Onshape file or the JScad?

Is there a BOM for the printed parts from your Onshape file? Im looking to get them printed (standard box version) and dont want to miss anything.

Or a simplified BOM for the parts that are necessary to get it printing, and then the extra parts to print once the printer is working?

Sep 9, 2015 - Modified Sep 9, 2015

Built this awhile ago, and works great for the most part. Did custom parameters in OpenJSCad.

1ft 8mm X/Y rods, 400mm 10mm Z rods. I went with a different extruder - found a simple bowden extruder using a mk8 extruder gear and a compression spring which I liked better.

  1. When scaling up to 10mm on Z, the Z slide will rub against the back of the box. It needs to be spaced out a tiny amount from the back. I used a couple of washers with decent success, although the wood screw doesn't thread a whole lot into the wood. So far it holds up alright, although I did put wood glue on the screws before screwing them in.

  2. For the top of the Z slide where you insert the rods, I found that when I tried to tighten the belt for Z, the part would flex downward and my Z rods, which were once flush with the top of the part, now poke out. I modified the STL by putting a cover over the top of the rods so they stay in the part. I also extended the hole for the screw that holds the 608zz bearing all the way through the part as the bolts I had stuck out because they were too long. I also made the holes 5.2mm in diameter to compensate for some plastic shrinkage, and now the rods fit snugly without sanding or drilling.

  3. Scaling the X/Y to 8mm causes the clamps for the lm8uu bearings to be too small. Screwing a screw in cracks it for me, and there's not enough area for the head of the screw or a nut to properly clamp the bearings into place. I ended up screwing some screws halfway in until the head hit the plastic, and then secured everything in place with some hot glue.

  4. Endstops weren't getting hit. The X endstop kept going under the part which it was supposed to hit. The Y endstop was barely missing the part that was supposed to hit it as well. I cut up some small pieces of filament and hot glued them in a stack so that they hit the endtops.

Overall, really great work. Besides the couple hiccups which I managed to workaround, the printer went together quite easily(although making the box took a lot more time than expected). Print quality and build volume is stellar, especially considering I managed to source everything for under $350.

Once I fix some issues with my power supply wires I'll probably post a make.

wonderful ! nice job .
thank you for the feedback , it's always very usefull to read real experience.

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I found that out, but now I have a serious problem which were not exist in the first version, where can we mount the end stops'

One is under the X carriage, facing the left if you look from the front of the printer.

Y is mounted on the box on the right panel.

You can see the mounting locations if you render the full machine in OpenJScad

What happened to the option for without wood supports, Im trying to use your gantry in a enclosure with a top so the wrap over style doesnt work, I see v1 has them but the bearing setup has changed.

ha yes. this option in first version didn't follow up . I'm sorry for that . We are actually working on an aluminium frame , so the parts will have again this option ( direct screws without wood top ) .
more infos to come at the end of the week .

Any info yet? I got all my vitamins just waiting to print, Super excited thanks!

awesome! I was about to start just cutting it up in blender lol

awesome! I was about to start just cutting it up in blender lol

I have finished the smartrapcore printer and the first print of a cube has the form is equal at rhombus.
Not understand why.
I noticed that the two pulleys in the "Y" direction does not run perfectly aligned.

Can help me ?



I would like to make a SmartrapCore with all axes 8mm and all bearings LM8UU.
I didn't found a version, so I would wanted to adapt in OpenSCAD , but I always get this error when I open the "smartcore.scad" file from Github:
Compiling design (CSG Tree generation)...
WARNING: Ignoring unknown function 'polygon'.
WARNING: Ignoring unknown function 'polygon'.
WARNING: Ignoring unknown function 'polygon'.
WARNING: Ignoring unknown function 'polygon'.
WARNING: Ignoring unknown variable 'output'.
WARNING: Ignoring unknown function 'polygon'.
WARNING: Ignoring unknown function 'polygon'.
How can I solve this , or is there a version with all axes 8mm available ?
Thanks in advance

Aug 9, 2015 - Modified Aug 9, 2015

What's the advantage of JSCAD?
Also I get a compile error from the github fork's smartcore-v1.2.jscad (1.2.4 june 17 2015) saying:

"TypeError: this.color.join is not a function"

The solution is to replace in line 534:




setColor is expected to be an array not a string.

Aug 5, 2015 - Modified Aug 5, 2015

Hi, you can have all the parts instead of the divided plate complete? I have no way of print for so many hours so I need individual pieces ... thanks

Update ;)
forget it all found on github

Where do i put the new xy stop sensors in 1.2.4 cant seem to find the right spot.

X endstop is under the carriage of the fusor facing left, and Y endstop is on the right side facing back, next to the motor.
If you go to youmagine and render the file with openjscad, you can see them on place.

Jul 20, 2015 - Modified Jul 20, 2015

Thanks for the great design!

I've tried to post on youmagine, but it didn't work =(

I'm having a trouble with inductuon sensor mount part - generated from JSCAD it is not complete - it doesn't have the full ring around the sensor, just the from half. Where do I get the correct one?

Also, belt length calculated in JSCAD is a total length including all the belts or its only x-y belts?

All newest design, firmware and slicer settings are found at: https://github.com/smartfriendz/smartcore

This project looks like it is developed i JSCAD and there are some parameters which can be chosen. But not all combinations are tested and verified to be good.

I've been using 8mm rods all over and there have been some bad parts. Many of these bad designs has been changed and therefore I can't say if they are all solved now.

Jul 20, 2015 - Modified Jul 20, 2015
MonZon - in reply to laxde

So version on OpenJSCAD (which is on youmagine) is not the latest and greatest?

If you get induction sensor mount with half hole it is not newest. I've always found github to have the newest changes.

Jul 10, 2015 - Modified Jul 11, 2015

Are the files at "Thing Files" for version 1.2.4? are they update?
Someone can tell me where can I find the design of the extruder ("cold end"), I couldn't find it with the others design. Isn't usually comes with the others parts? any design can work as extruder?

Best regards,

Could you please tell me if the picture above is a version 1.2 or 1.2.4?
I couldn't fin info about the 1.2.4 here

Best regards,

The first picture and the movie are a version 1.2.4

Jul 10, 2015 - Modified Jul 10, 2015

Could anybody tell me where can I buy the printed parts of this printer?

Jun 14, 2015 - Modified Jun 15, 2015

Just some questions :
how did you manage to have clean print on the plate 2 ? The holes for the rod (6mm) on the Y slides have overhang that start on nothing ...I don't see how you can print it ...

How will you fix the spool holder in the box ?

Jun 7, 2015 - Modified Jun 7, 2015

We are looking for a 2d-configuration for laser engraver, your design is the machine that I was dreaming, thanks a lot!!!

Me too! How is your build going? I have not started yet.

Jun 7, 2015 - Modified Jun 7, 2015

SC12 plate 1/2/ 3 are not manifold ! impossible to slice right now !!!

Ho yes sorry, i forgot to pass by netfabb basic. The stl out from openjscad are good for cura but not for slic3r.

Ok !

Where may i find the Smartcore Profile for Cura ?

You should be able to find it on the github : https://github.com/smartfriendz/smartcore/
(profile then cura)

Where I can find the openjscad for the 1.2.2 version? I want to use 8mm rods on XY

go to the main tab and look for the link to the youmagine page. the openjscad will be in documents tab. not sure if the one there has been updated to 1.2.2 yet though.

great genial 3d printer!
this ist probably the best 3d printer on thingiverse. because the steppers have to move small weights - so the printer can print faster.
thank you for sharing us your work.

can someone help me? i only have 10mm linear rods, and lm10uu bearings... i need the pieces with that holes!


How would we measure how long the z belt should be?

Also do you think that the carriage would be strong enough to hold a direct drive extruder?


any way you could set it up to where the files are not all together so it can be printed a few at a time or one part if someone needs to just make one part

You have to go to https://www.youmagine.com/designs/smartcore there you have the openjscad, put your parametres (rods, print volume, etc...) and then you can chose to see or export stl from separated parts.
You will find the 3 versions released.

Downloading doesn't seem to work - tried firefox, chrome, and IE... both auto-download (waited forever) and clicking the link fail.

Is the site experiencing problems? I'm about 100 of the downloads... the count kept going up as I tried but failed. This is by far the best Corexy design I've seen, and I'd LOVE to have it rather than designing parts from scratch.

Thanks so much... Can't wait.

Tou have to "edit" in openjscad, and when you configured it, select build plate for download stl...

You can see to the size of the wood planks, rods and the belt you need, if select wood an rod size.

Thanks, but I was talking about the youmagine smartcore download here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/smartcore/download

That fails to give you the openscad source, which is it's purpose... I got the source from github, but wanted to let them know their site is failing.

This is one of the more elegant designs for a CoreXY. Has anyone else used that configuration to eliminate the belt crossover?

May 17, 2015 - Modified May 17, 2015

How long does the z belt need to be? (Presuming default settings)

This comment has been deleted.

Has anyone already made the hotend suspension suitable for E3D V6?

Just created one

May 1, 2015 - Modified May 1, 2015

I had a problem with slicing plate 2 with slic3r, so I've fixed file using https://netfabb.azurewebsites.net/. There is link ;) Plate one ready!

What are the metal-looking pieces under the glass? I'm thinking of building a smartrapcore, and would like auto leveling as well. I will be using a glass plate, but the proximity sensor needs to detect metal.

Looks like aluminum tape.

It's aluminum Tape for the Inductive Sensor, for calibration.

Friend, you could help me? I live in Brazil and not against electronic .. u could tell me or tell where can I find?


Nice! What thickness of the filament is used ?

The Filament used is 1.75 mm.

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Really nice and compact!!!! This is what i'm looking for. TQ

Nice Build :D

I have ordered the SmartrapCore from Smartfriendz Shop... Waiting for Shipping :P

This comment has been deleted.
Mar 15, 2015 - Modified Mar 16, 2015

Thank you for this interesting design.
I have an E3D extruder the same as the one on the above images.
Is it possible to have this option in jscad?

Thank you

I saw E3D and JHEAD have the same attach dimensions. I modified the diameters in jscad file to 16.2 and 12.2

Which parameter did you modify?

Mar 17, 2015 - Modified Mar 17, 2015
cla - in reply to ramooown

I found the extruders holes too small.
I modified in the jscad file the values on lines 571-599-625 to 16.2 and on lines 572-600-626 to 12.2

I am not a jscad expert so I just tried because I already printed the other parts and the hotend attachment was the last missing

Hey! awesome design! I'm thinking of buying one on your website, but I have a few questions:

  • How is the print size (on the stock one you sell on your site)?
  • Does it use 1.75mm or 3mm filament?

thanks chabachaba.

print size is 200x200x150 by default ( with the settings here and with the sold kits ) .

it uses 1.75mm filament.

The Y-slide bearing holders look smaller than the bearing holders on the Z-slide part. Are they the right size? When printed they seem too small to fit the LM8UU bearings.

In this version on thingiverse , we use the basic kit , that means : XY rods in 6mm and Z rod in 8mm.

All options are available ( even bigger rods), but that is only in youmagine with the openjscad file .

ah, that makes much more sense now, thank you. Now I just need to learn how to use those :P

it's quiet simple to just visualize , choose options and select "generate plates" . Then save as stl.
Note : the generated stl there is not good for slic3r , but ok for cura . For slic3r you will need to clean the plates with netfab basic.

This comment has been deleted.

Great design! Any decrease in Z accuracy though from using belts rather than threaded rods?

Thank you :) I didn't notice nad the result is very flat on Z. I think we have a 0,1 mm resolution which is exactly what we wanted.

Great! Then I guess I have a new project to build. hehe

The parts in the video are different from the ones in the images. The video has the rods mounded side-by-side whereas the images have them with one above the other. The video one seems to be superior to me. Are the part files updated to match this?

The video was a beta version and this one is more compact with both rods vertically aligned. Its not less strong or stable, so I don't think the old version was superior ? In term of printing, i find the new version more stable with integrated new bearings supports.

Do you think you will archive an higher print quality with this printer than with a good adjusted Prusa i3?

I really can't tell . I think it's very complicated to define "well adjusted" .. and IMO there is no competition between such two models. Prusa I3 is a wonderful machine , definitely !
With time, i think we will see more and more printed out from smartrapcore, so we will better see if it's good enough :)
For now, i can tell i'm happy to print at 80mm/s and 150mm/s moves :)


I've just ordered parts for the Core! I am wondering about where to find info about the screws/bolts etc to put it all together?

and also has anyone found anywhere cheap to buy the glass plate?

Thanks!! cant wait to try it! will be my first printer :D

a BOM is started on youmagine. i will coy it here in a doc as it's finished . The screw set is right now.


I'd like to make a purchase, but I have a lot of the parts you already have there so I am hoping to do this: purchase the printed parts, rods, hardware (nuts screws, etc.), switches, fan, sensor and end-stops (I will use yours just to be safe). I already have bearings, LM8UUs, steppers and the RAMPS (although if your RAMPS is pre-flashed and configured then I would buy that), belts, pulleys/gears. I would likely build the box out of wood as you have or the same thickness machined aluminum with acrylic 'windows' and a door. Is there a way to purchase these items from you or as sub-kits? If you are able and willing, would you please send me a PayPal invoice and I will pay it.


Hi Samer,

Did you find our shop , now with lot of accessories ? : http://shopping.smartfriendz.com . Maybe you will find there what you want ? It would be more easy than doing all by email ( certainly for me).
About the wood, i guess it's better to make it cut directly there in a local shop ? there's absolutely no forms inside, just straight planks.
Note : I've just made a special shipping price for USA ( after some deal ) .. globally 20 euros.

I did. Is your RAMPS a stock board or did you flash it with something special? If not I will use one I have here and an LCD to go with it.

ho. ok.. sorry :)

I do flash it , but nothing special. it's the marlin I use for all smartrapcore. It is simply on our github ( configured) , in the smartcore part.
From this version, i think it is very simple to adjust variablese to make work the LCD ( some line with the right LCD to uncomment in configuration.h ) .

Do you by any chance have a step by step document with how you flash and make edits and ao on? Everything I have found in the web makes assumptions about what has to happen first and usually they are off.

Great design, I like the inductive sensor. Also much cheaper than a frame with aluminium profiles. Do you think a direct drive extruder is possible?

Autolevel was "difficult" on my mod of the original smartrap so I have changed it to a more semi automatic version (lil bit like the first servo version just without servo).

If I finish my CNC I would like to try a full aluminium version of this printer. But I am unsure about the Z-Axis. Is it really rigid like this? Looks like the plate is fixed just in the back? Would love to see a photo of the mounted plate from below.

Anyway, thanks for your work in the past. It got me into 3D printing!

Thank you for the compliments autrion, and if i could do something to bring you in this nice domain, especially in the open source side, i'm more than happy :)

The plate is not "really" rigid like this. It's enough to print with good quality, but i'm not 100% happy with it.. Working in the background to another solution.. I try to don't complicate too much ( simplicity should be the number one feature of this printer) , and no more steppers.. so it won't be easy to find. We will find.. we always find :)

I have yet to build a 3d printer but I have been researching for a long time and following the 3d printing scene for years. I will be building a machine in a month or two and it will more than likely be a SmartRap or SmartRapCore. Thank you for all of your contributions to the community!

I have been thinking about the Z-axis design and playing around a bit in Sketchup. I was thinking about just printing out two of the Z-axis Assembly and driving them both from a dual shaft NEMA 17. You would be adding the weight of two more bearings and two more supports but I think the additional stability would be worth it. The cost would be minimal. You be doubling your parts in the Z assembly as well as adding a few 625 bearings, a shaft coupler, and a piece of 5mm rod. Of course, you would need to change the sides of the box that the Z axis assemblies mount to but that shouldn't be that big of an issue either.

Here is a drawing of what I am thinking:

very good idea ! I wouldn't think about the double shaft stepper... I was also thinking about a double Z of course.

certainly something to try in real ! not so hard to test i think ? parts are just two times the same :)

thank you !

Feb 28, 2015 - Modified Mar 1, 2015
autrion - in reply to smartfriendz

Great idea Wayne!

@Serge: Which Induction Sensor are you using for the autolevel? I am searching already for a few hours but can't find one with 5V. I am trying to retrofit the smartrap with a direct drive extruder and induction.

Update: Found a cheap Chinese sensor on eBay, question answered ;)

Did you noticed issues with belts dropping off "slide Y" part's bearings?
Are the GT pulleys and "bearing xy" parts limit the slide of bearing?
I imagine if machine is straight and level it would not happen, but reality is different sometimes

On the picture model, it could happen easy , but on the last version ( stl ) , the slideY part where extended , so the belts are between the hats now .
bearingsXY don't have this problem as the belt pass inside and is well maintained in case of misalignment.

You may need some vibration absorbtion sheets, such as cork, at board connections.

absolutely ! It is in fact not "that" noisy. I was used to the smartrap which is very quiet. So, after the first standard adjustments, we will work on that.
It looks like making holes in wood panels help also.

Great Job Serge!

thank you mad :) it's just a start . I believe this model will go farther than the smartrap. The basis is more strong.

I'm working on finishing another printer now, but I will give this one a go after I finish it. I'll use 8mm rods since I have some already. What infill do I need on the printed parts? I may get to printing those soon.

Found issue with 2 elements motorXY and bearingsXY - they don't behave correctly for wider boards (like 19mm or 3/4 inch)

here is patch file to fix it

hee. thank you :) It's not common to find someone finding a bug AND resolve it ! cool :)

Fantastic design. My son and I built a smartrap last year mainly because it could easily be broken down to fit in luggage as he studies overseas and needs the portability. The smartrap could be built really cheaply and was light and compact. Your new core machine looks much more rigid and robust and can no doubt be pushed faster. I'd probably be tempted to fit a brace panel across the front to make the sides more rigid and mount the spool and extruder stepper in the vacant space in front of the bed. What is the cylinder in front of the extruder hot end? Is it an optical sensor for Z axis endstop and bed autolevelling? My next machine will be a corexy but I am leaning towards a steel welded frame like my first Prusa Mendel i2 derived machine.

thank you :)
the sensor in front is an inductive sensor. The glass plate has aluminium tape under . It's indeed for autolevel bed.
The main goal of this new design was to have a more easy to assemble kit and more robust. We're happy about that for now. I print now around 80mm/s and moves are at 150mm/s . Even without a panel in front, it's not moving a lot at this speed.
Evolution of this model seem also more easy.. the goal is to have a full range of "quality" , from the really basic kit as you see now ( the cheapest also i think? ) to more sofisticated models with aluminium box, front panel, raspberry pi inside...etc..etc..
we have a lot of place now :)

Any videos of this printer running? Has anyone built one of these?

Hi bret,

There some videos of development version on smartfriendz youtube chanel ( forgot to put the link here.. i will ) . I tihnk no one built it..i just published it :)

How loud is it? Seems like wooden box and hard mounts of the motors would resonate motor sound a lot.

Feb 25, 2015 - Modified Feb 25, 2015
smartfriendz - in reply to hudbrog

It is loud to me ! i was used with the smartrap to a very low sound .. It will be something to work on , certainly ! holes in wood, mousse inside ?. I'm sure there's good things to do about to reduce sound. I admitt it's not my priority for the start of the model .
after all it's not as loud as that :)

Have you tested small rubber feet on the bottom of the box also to lower the sound ???
So its not a lot of vibrations transplanting to the bottom also and further down the table.
And will you sell it as a complete kit also serge ??