Super Game PiSP

by Carasibana, published

Super Game PiSP by Carasibana Feb 5, 2015
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When I first saw the PiGRRL released by Adafruit I knew that I had to build one, but I wanted to tweak it a little, then part way through my design process Adafruit upped their game and released the [Super Game Pi]( http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:629873 )!

But I had a problem, it was too large for my Printrbot! D:
So I designed this, my version of the Super Game Pi , which I call the Super Game PiSP, because I based the basic shape off of the PSP.

I had a few things in mind making it, namely:

  • It had to print on my Printrbot Simple Metal ( ~ 150mm ^3 volume )
  • I wanted to reduce the visibility of screws in the design ( my component mounting screws are internal )
  • I wanted a more rounded design
  • I wanted the battery to be internal
  • I wanted to use the Pi B+ ( and now it can use the Pi 2 B ! :D )
  • I wanted to use tac buttons , and not have to cut up a game controller PCB

So with those in mind I created this!

The electronics and setup are nearly identical to the guide for the Super Game Pi https://learn.adafruit.com/super-game-pi , except I used a Pi B+ , and tac switches instead of a hacked up game pad

I'll post more detailed information later, but I want to get this released before I head to work! ( More detailed information now available on the instructions page, as well as pictures of the internals )

Inspired by, but not directly derived from the Super Game Pi ( used it as reference for quite a few measurements )


The assembly of this Thing is done entirely with 3/8 4-40 Machine screws, Two of which had to be cut off short unfortunately ( though it could work properly by not screwing them in entirely )

You will need a 4-40 tap to tap all of the screw holes.

Assemble the bottom three pieces together , and the top three pieces together. Then install the electronics. The screen slides into place, but you may need to flex the top piece slightly to get it to fit, and you may wish to secure it in place with a small amount of hot glue. The speakers and power switch will need to be secured with a small amount of hot glue. the battery pack is not secured in place, it is held in place by the PCB for the buttons above it when the enclosure is closed. All of the other pieces are held in place with machine screws.

** Note as Juper pointed out, you will need to cut the traces in between the button leads on your PCB for the Blue and Yellow buttons to prevent them from shorting out across each other.

Once all of the electronics are installed, carefully connect the top to the bottom and screw the enclosure shut.

The electronics used in this project are:

You will also need some through hole PCB to cut up and mount the buttons onto, such as the
Adafruit Perma-Proto Full-sized Breadboard PCB - Single I had an old Radio Shack one left over.

The software setup and electronics connections are very well explained in the Adafruit Super Game Pi Write up

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I'm very interested to make this project but the instructions page is missing....
Could you send me it in PM.

Many thanks

I'm fairly new to this kind of project. How difficult would it be to use a Raspberry 3 with this build? Do you know what I would need to do differently?

PI 3 would be ideal since you have built in Bluetooth and WiFi. Structure is the same. You will want the latest version of retropie to accommodate the hardware changes.

Pi3 Worked fine for me. I did de-solder the GPIO and then soldered my wires directly into the Pi's PCB.

Should work with no changes as far as the hardware is concerned. software /should/ be pretty much identical as well.


I've successfully printed this thing, and hooked up the audio. There is a white "noise" in the menus of emulationstation and when there is no music / sounds (loading e.t.c) and its really hissing up. Any idea on what that can be? Tried with both 0.5w and 1w speakers. Same noise


I struggled with this issue. I have tried many things. Lets work together to figure this issue out. I am looking into some small gauge shielded wire to solder to the speaker and the amp chip. There are some software tweaks you can do but this has proved minimal change. I also am trying to modify Carasibana's STL files to add a potentiometer to manually control the sound. This also may be an issue with the Tip ring sleeve audio port. So much is packed into this design audio tends to bleed a lot. Let me know what you think.

Jul 20, 2016 - Modified Jul 20, 2016
Grimmbly - in reply to Grimmbly


Shielded wire fixed the issue.

Can someone help me with the button diagram, i am a bigginer and i dont know how to do the buttons


Are you still having trouble?

this is what i wanted! the adafruit one got complicated for me when i had to hack up a snes controller. anyone have a good guide to do this one? i dont want to follow the adafruit one.

I am having a difficult time getting it to recognize my buttons. Do you have any advice or anything you did to edit the retrogame file to see your buttons on a pi2?

taa11 - in reply to taa11

I am asking if you could please provide some advice on getting buttons to work in emulation station. I was able to get them to respond in the terminal window, but not emulation station.

Jan 6, 2016 - Modified Jan 6, 2016
KazumaTachi - in reply to taa11

I am also having a similar problem. After doing all the configuration multiple times and checking my wiring it has come to my attention that the pi2 is just not recognizing the tactile buttons. If you figure out the issue please let me know.

Edit: I have done some research and think that there is something different about the gpio on the pi2. Some people have done a workaround like Francky95 by connecting it through usb. Although I am not experienced enough to do that myself.

Feb 9, 2016 - Modified Feb 9, 2016
Grimmbly - in reply to KazumaTachi

I am experiencing the same results. If i do the buttons individually they work. start and select button works find. Analog stick works fine. All other buttons do not recognize. I may try a different breadboard. The buttons will detect wired as a single button from the xyba.

Feb 9, 2016 - Modified Feb 9, 2016
Grimmbly - in reply to Grimmbly

Okay, after looking over the documentation and getting the multi-meter out, I would like to point out what has already been written and observed in the initial instructions. The Adafruit breadboard, has tracers and all the buttons will short out if the tracers are not removed since they share a common ground. That is to say, all 5 buttons will short out and will not read. I am going to go purchase a simple breadboard with no tracers at Radio Shack. I will post an update if this fixes the issue. I am confident that it will since single buttons will work if wired individually.

Looks like you have to wire the positive and ground contact wires diagonally. For example, left top; right top; left bottom; right bottom; --- if you wire left top ground and right top positive = short in your connection and will short all 5 buttons since they share a common ground. Also the tracers need to be cut out if you are using the Adafruit bread/perfboard and this included in the modified directions for this project. @ Carisabana please add my first comment to your instructions to help further project doers on this project.

Is there a way you could post your wiring for the tactile buttons? I wanted to see how you wired them through the PCB board.

Dec 4, 2015 - Modified Dec 4, 2015
Carasibana - in reply to taa11

Theres a close up photo with colour coding in the pictures!
basically they all share a common ground wire, and then each has its own wire running back to the GPIO pins described in the Adafruit instructions.

any thoughts on redoing this with the pi zero and a dpad? would last like 4x time longer on the same battery and be awesome for playing old gameboy/nes/snes type games

Hey dude, how do I attach the Adafruit Buttons on a plexboard/breadboard to the Raspberry Pi GPIO Pins?

everything looks about the same except the buttons, are the instructions different for the buttons if so can you explain to me how to do them?

After 45 hours and 42 minutes printing, I have now printed this entire thing at 100 micron layer height high quality mode. My printer struggled with the steep curves so I had to use supports which left the curves bumpy. I'm now in the process of sanding and polishing before applying a glossy clear coat. MUCH bigger than I expected. Very cool project for a new Raspberry Pi 2

Could this build be modified to fit a 7.0" screen?

Hey, I love the design, its really cool! I'm using Cura with my printrbot and the Middle top and bottom pieces seem "too big" for my machine. My understanding is these are design to fit RIGHT on the max build volume of the machine, and Cura isn't letting me print them. Could you help me pls? Additionally, I'm having problems with the button circles to stick to the build plate... (Might just be a me problem)

They are indeed designed to go right to the limits of the Simple metal's build area. I can't speak to Cura, because I used Slic3r to do my slicing, however I found that if you have it printing a Skirt or a Brim it may be pushing those outside of the printable area. you could try printing them with no skirt or brim , or on a raft possibly. I'll also upload my GCode for the middle pieces ( no heated bed was accounted for in them though )

as for issues with the button circles, I'd need to know more about your setup , what are you printing onto? do you have a heated bed? hope I've been of some help! look for MT.gcode and MB.gcode in the files section if you want to load them up in Repetier or something.

I'm printing onto blue painters tape. I have tried printing with just the tape, and have tried printing with some glue on the tape. Print speeds are around 20mm/s, and i have tried switching up that value... Also, while printing the first layer, the printer kinda "drips" out filament, like little dots. I will try out Slic3r to see how that goes. Thanks!

My first instinct is to try increasing the first layer height to around 0.35 .

Solved! I ended up experimenting with raft settings... Thanks for your help!

Glad to hear it! :D

Ok I'll try them both. Thanks so much!

Hi Carasibana,
I've been working on this project and was very excited to see it done, but then I hit a snag, the TFP401 HDMI/DVI Decoder to 40-Pin TTL Breakout's connection to the 40-pin FPC 200mm Cable is extremely weak and touchy. When I closed it all up the screen's colors would shift all around and the only way to fix it was to push the cable's end down harder into the decoder. I was thinking about ordering a new decoder, would that fix the problem? If not, what suggestions do you have?

it sounds like your connector is a bit loose for the ribbon cable. the only thing I can think of to suggest aside from ordering a new decoder would be to try taking a small strip of thin plastic , cutting it to the width of the ribbon cable , and inserting it into the connector with the cable ( on the side without the actual electrical connectors of course ). Hopefully that would add some bulk to the cable , and allows the connector on the decoder to grab onto it more firmly.

Aside from that I'm not sure what else you could try, unfortunately troubleshooting is a tad difficult like this.
Hope you get it worked out!

I have been trying to put this together and I have a question. How did you handle the HDMI cord because I can't get it to fit?
Did you have to modify the ends of the cable in any way?

Jul 4, 2015 - Modified Jul 4, 2015
Carasibana - in reply to Condorghost

yes, I took the plastic casing off of the ends of the cable that I had so that I could bend it back closer to the end, then made sure the end wasn't going to come off with some heat shrink tube.

Thanks, That worked perfectly. Another question, Do you have any advice on how to mark the points you need to drill to mount the breadboards to the case?

I just set the perfboard in place before putting anything on it or assembling the case and put a couple dots on it to makr where screw holes should go with a sharpie

I want to make this but I want to use a D-pad rather than a joystick.. is there any kind of dpad breakout board to replace this with? I can use the D-pad from an SNES/NES controller and re-model that one STL to fit it if this were possible.

Absolutely, the cupcade adapter basically turns the joystick into a D-Pad anyway, it would just be a matter of connecting up buttons to act as a D pad, tying a common ground to them , and attaching a connection from each of them to the Raspberry pi where the cupcade adapter is connected. You could make your own with Tact-switches , or use one out of a game controller and trace the connections.

Hello! I just published my own PSP-shaped Retropie gaming thingy, remixed from the same source as this. I didn't actually realize that this one existed until after I had published mine - sorry about that, not meaning to copy you there.

Hey! I'm glad you told me about it! You didn't copy me, no reason at all to down play your own accomplishments because coincidentally someone else did something similar before you. If anything I'm super excited to see this! the differences in the designs are really interesting! and I really like that you laid out where you were coming from with the design.

May 30, 2015 - Modified May 31, 2015

Any tips on fitting the battery inside? I built mine almost exactly like yours, yet the battery seems to be a millimeter too thick.

id suggest filing down the plastic in the area it doesnt fit, or filing on either side .5mm to get it to fit.

Anyone have any thoughts on why my joystick will only register down and left ctrl during setup? I have wired this exactly like the adafruit instructions, but I'm not sure if there is something special I have to do with a B+ and the cupcade.

I figured it out, I had a bad version of retropie.

Do you think I would have any issues using the controller instead of the breadboard and buttons? Will everything fit?
Thanks for the design, looks awesome cant wait to make it.

May 14, 2015 - Modified May 15, 2015

Is there any easy way to add volume control? volume wheel or on off switch or something?

also this new 1000c powerboost looks interesting. it seems to be the same size and the load sharing is somewhat of a nice incentive for me at least. thoughts?

also if anyone is interested i made a simple wishlist on adafruit of the the parts

awesome thanks! yours looks great, left a comment and a like on it too.

do you have any more detail on the headphone jack and volume control? this is almost exactly what i am wanting to do on mine but not sure how to wire it all up.

May 20, 2015 - Modified May 20, 2015
Djamuka - in reply to kferg55

Put the link here too....



I like this idea. Do you have any updates on the STL files to include this for 3.5mm audio jack and volume control?

Pretty confused about the tac button wiring with the conductive rivers. Don't the horizontally oriented buttons get shorted by the river they are seated in?

YES they would, a very good point. I had to cut the traces on the PCB to separate them. I'll add a note to the instructions mentioning this. Thanks for point out the oversight! :)

May 6, 2015 - Modified May 6, 2015

I am also thinking about adding 2 more buttons to the right piece to support n64 emulation. do you think there would be room inside for these extra button?

yes I think there would be room for a few more buttons there. it might be worth while to move the 4 coloured buttons that are there up a smidgen when doing it though.

Comments deleted.

cool ill have to try an edit it to see if itll work. might be hard to get it positioned to fit comfortably for n64 and snes.

Any advice for low profile screw drivers? I'm having the hardest time screwing together the base pieces.

i am probably going to get hex screws similar to the ones i linked below. that way it will be easier to use a right angle allen wrench to reach everything

Apr 14, 2015 - Modified Apr 14, 2015

This looks so much better than all the other handhelds. nice and streamlined, the only thing for me is the speakers. im not sure why but they just seem off to me jutting out at the angle like that. maybe closing the middle gap from end to end on the speakers? not sure. i am pretty sure i will be trying to print this out soon though, it just destroys the other handheld models. would love to maybe see a revision or a 7" or something!

and im assuming these need to be printed with supports?

EDIT: you think these buttons will work just as well? seems like the sizes are the same

glad you like it!
yes it does need some very minor support material to print.
The buttons you linked to seem perfect, no reason that they wouldn't work that I can see.

another couple questions. what kind of glue did you use to assemble? and if its not to much trouble, would you mind sharing some of your print settings? mine are coming out a bit off

No glue, just 3/8 4-40 Machine screws ( two of them were cut down a tad ). I honestly don't remember the exact print settings I used. I printed in PLA at ~ 190C with a 0.2mm layer height

the button caps yes just snapped onto the buttons i used ( though you have to be a little careful with them , I did break the tabs off one while trying to put it on and had to print another.) The circuit diagram from Adafruit is exactly the same. I'm not sure about the battery honestly , I've never had it die on me. I think my longest time using it was around 3 hours straight.

Apr 29, 2015 - Modified May 1, 2015
kferg55 - in reply to Carasibana

if you will allow me to bother you again :p i was wondering if these screws would work?


it says they are 4-32 which means they would just have 8 less threads?

and there are 46 screws total? thats what i counted

yes those should work, I think the 4-32 is incorrect though? as later in the posting for them it says that they are:

2-piece per bag
Steel construction
Plain finish
#4 - 40 x 3/8 in.
Flat head socket drive

I'm honestly not sure how many screws there are in the design, I never bothered to count.
sorry about the delay.

May 11, 2015 - Modified May 12, 2015
kferg55 - in reply to Carasibana

cool thanks! i just figured hex would be a lot easier to screw in for all the weird angle pieces. and after counting several more times after i put it together i got 57 screws. ill double check again once i actually put it together but i believe thats correct. which were the 2 that you had to cut down? i might try and get a shorter one for those.

i believe these are the best ones to get. home depot wont let me order more than like 20. only about $15 delivered from this place - http://www.kljack.com/default.aspx?page=item%20detail&itemcode=4C37KFC

awesome! appreciate all the help and answers, really makes it easier for a noob like me.

Apr 15, 2015 - Modified Apr 15, 2015
kferg55 - in reply to Carasibana

awesome thanks! so for the start and select buttons you just replaced the cap for the buttons used for the rest correct? and since you were saying this is all the same as the super game pi the circuit diagram and wiring tutorial on adafruit would be the same? and about how long does the battery last? just need to find a shorter hdmi and i think ill order all the parts.

I am having a ludicrous time trying to get Left_bottom to print, any suggestions?

It needs supports. I suggest generating them in meshmixer.

what kind of problems are you having?

I've got a question that you might be able to help me with. I am doing a Super Game Pi from adafruit and I am almost done! My main problem at the moment is that when I do the configure input button mapping in emulation station, it never asks me for X and Y buttons. It only asks me for up,down,left,right, a, b, start, select, page up (L shoulder), and page down (R shoulder). My x and y buttons both register as button pushes if I map them to a wrong slot (like if I map x to select for example).

Do you have any suggestions on how to get emulation station to map x and y?? Thanks.

Apr 6, 2015 - Modified Apr 6, 2015
Carasibana - in reply to aplusa3d

Emulation Station's button mapping is ONLY for emulation station , not for the emulators that it launches. It took me a while to figure that out.

In the Adafruit guide there is a section under initial setup about retrogame.c that has the button mapping for your device. that maps the GPIO input pins to keyboard button presses.

The emulators are setup to mostly care about the keyboard keys you're emulating by default , but if you want to change the key mapping for a specific emulator, it needs to be done for each emulator either in their individual configuration files, or from the options menu in the emulators themselves. its probably easiest to connect a USB keyboard to your game pi for that configuration and check the retropie fourms for help finding where to change those mappings.


Could it be possible to put in a headphone jack to allow to swap between headphones and speakers (soundboard?) also how could these controls work for Kodi?

Hi can you please give us the size of the holes so we can install two extra holes for N64 games

I assume you mean the holes for the tact buttons? If so , they have a radius of 6.103 mm

look at the two last photo snes the screen and well psx the screen and shift? psx, pcengine sega cd? its makes you the same ?


Super Game PiSP
Comments deleted.

Thank you so much for making this. This is exactly what I was looking for! My printer, like yours, was not big enough to print the other one.

Glad you like it!

What Printrbot did you use for this? I have a simple metal and this won't print on it because of the size...The max print size of a simple metal is 150 mm and the largest part is 150 mm....so shouldn't I be able to print this?

Same issue here! I printed on a simple metal, had to rotate the file 90 degrees to print vertical in Cura. Supports everywhere. Works for me.

I printed this on a simple metal... not sure why it would be an issue?

Hey this looks great!
However, I think some people are curious about the spacing of the buttons... where on the grid of copper pads are your buttons soldered? Can you have a close up picture of the boards and where you soldered the buttons? Also, what are the dimensions/distances for the holes for mounting the button boards?
I think if you posted them, someone could make some Inkscape (or KiCAD, Eagle CAD, etc) files so that people can etch, cut, and drill their own button boards for your project. ;)

Feb 23, 2015 - Modified Feb 23, 2015
Carasibana - in reply to PhatJustice

great idea , and good points, I'll post this info when I've got a second to do it!
( posted a closeup picture for the time being )

Feb 25, 2015 - Modified Feb 27, 2015
PhatJustice - in reply to Carasibana

Cool. I'm sometimes slow to respond (my neglected "Things" are a testament to my lack of time) but it would be nice to at least get something out so that you can make those boards more consistently when/if you do repairs. You can also design headers so that the wiring is cleaner too.
I'm assuming that the buttons are perfectly center of the mounting screws for the action buttons? Do you have the distances for the center of those mount points?

Update: Found the mechanical drawings for the tactile buttons on Adafruit. I made a small mock up of the drill points (for screws and nubbins) and solder pads for them, but I haven't done the vias.

Hi, I am currently building this with a Pi 2, but I am having power issues, the powerboost is not providing enough power for the whole thing. any ideas ?

Feb 23, 2015 - Modified Feb 23, 2015
Carasibana - in reply to jbdahan

You may need to use a more powerful power boost, I don't think they make a larger model with battery charger included though , so you'd have to wire up a separate one.

I'm actually surprised that you're having an issue though, everything I've seen about the pi2 is that its power usage is just slightly higher than the B+, and I've run mine from the battery with a WIFI module in the USB with no issues.

Power Comparison

Powerboost 1000

L-ion / Lipo Charger

May 19, 2015 - Modified May 19, 2015
Djamuka - in reply to Carasibana

Hi, I think the powerboost 500 is too lite:

TFP401 = 500mA

Rpi 2 + Wifi Dongle + GPIO +... = 650mA

All = 1150mA ...?

jbdahan is right I think?

Hey Thanks !
After further research it looks like my powerboost is having issues. I will update when i can things working

How hard would it be to add a D pad make it a 7 Inch screen and add two extra buttons?

The DPAD under the joystick maybe and the two extra buttons under the 4 so that the console can also play N64 GAMES

Unfortunately the 40-pin FPC is out of stock,


Any alternatives suggested?

How much does this thing approx. cost?

Total of the electronics is ~ $188.45 on Adafruit's store at the time of writing this, not including the cost of the plastic filament.

if you are looking at ordering from Adafruit, on Wednesday nights they host a live electronics show on youtube and twitch where they typically offer a 10% off coupon.

What are the print dimensions. My 3D printer I am waiting on prints just under 5"

the largest piece is ~ 150mm wide

How do we set up the select and start buttons? and the 4 other buttons since its different to the Super Game Pi

You mount the buttons onto some perfboard that is cut to fit, you can see the perfboard in the internal images pictures I posted.

the ABXY buttons are on the same piece, the start and select buttons are on the same perfboard, and the Left and right shoulder buttons are each on their own separate piece

To play N64 games would you need a D-Pad or just more buttons?

it would depend on the emulator and the controls of the game you're playing. with this the cupcade adapter translates the analog signal from the joystick into digital signals, essentially it makes the joystick act like a D-Pad with the buttons mapped to keyboard buttons.

Comments deleted.
Feb 8, 2015 - Modified Feb 9, 2015

looks great! i am looking to build a portable pi2 retropie as well. I really like the clean faceplate and tac switches, same thing i was looking for. i think if 2 more buttons can be added on the right side it will be great for n64. the left shoulder can be z and the right should can be the n64 right shoulder.

Also thinking of putting a 7 inch screen in it for some longer battery life

got any internal pics of how you did the tac switches or hid the screws? and if you are feeling extra extra generous maybe list of materials!?!

Feb 10, 2015 - Modified Feb 10, 2015
Carasibana - in reply to kferg55

Posted some internal pictures , and did a little write up in the instructions including a parts list! Hope it helps! :D
Glad you like the design! thank you! :)

the screws aren't exactly 'hidden' I just put them around the edge of the design so that they weren't obvious on the flat section of the back or front of the console. and I had the electronics mounting screws be internal , this is a really big contrast to when you look at the back of the Adafruit Super Game Pi design.

Super Game Pi

Hi, Could you please if possible upload a design with two spacing for button holes :)

Hi there, sorry but I'm not clear on what it is you're asking for.

I've included the 123D design files, which are available in the thing files section for anyone that wants to make any alterations to the design.

Love your design! Im gonna build it with my middle school Pi Club. Could you post some pics of the guts. Would be helpful in explaining how to hook it up. Also what size battery did you use? How big were your Tac Switch measurements?

N64 games run great on the pi2. Any thoughts in a design that will add a few more buttons? So I can get my Mario cart 64 on.

Again, Great work!

Glad you like it! I posted a couple of pictures of the internals for you. Also there are now links to information on all the parts I used in my build in the instructions section.

As for more buttons, the easiest place to add them to the design would be underneath the 4 coloured tac switches ( ABXY ) , there is a little free space there, and would be easy to wire the onto the same PCB as the ABXY buttons. you might also be able to squeeze a couple of buttons onto the PCB with the select and start buttons , if you went with a smaller button design. Also the joystick in this incorporates a button when you press down on it.

If you were able to move the cupcade adapter to underneath the joystick PCB ( I'm not sure if there is enough room or not? ) you might also be able to fit some buttons under the joystick.

Oh very nice. My brother and I are making the Super Game Pi, but I had the same problem you did with printing them. I ended up cutting the parts in half and using plastic epoxy rejoining them. I wanted more USBs and flexibility for mine to use it as a portable raspberry pi as well. I really like your design and will make that with the new Pi 2. Also I will likely remix this and add a headphones jack and add a ponified personal touch.

Welp this is honestly the best looking custom handheld I've ever seen, and I say this having built my own. I known you remixed it from the Adafruit design but considering how you streamlined it and broke up the case for smaller printers I think this can be evaluated on its own merits. Seriously great work.

PortaBerry Pi (Handheld Raspberry Pi Emulator)
by 3Derp

:D Thank you! , your design was one of my inspirations as well! So this really means a lot! I really like the buttons on yours , which is why I went the same way.

I didn't remix it directly from the adafruit design , I made the model from scratch and took some measurements from the adafruit design, they're listed as Remixes because when you make a thing , it says " Sources: What is your Thing inspired by, derived from, or a remix of? "

I listed the models that are there, because they inspired me, I actually was originally going to add yours as well , but I couldn't find it! now that you posted the link , I've added it as an inspiration. I just wish there was a way to differentiate Remix from Inspiration in the Sources list.

I think I should clarify my comment about the 'remix' because I believe it stems from a misunderstanding about how Thingiverse works that you just cleared up for me. I thought if a design was published as a remix it could only be seen/accessed through the original parts design page (I believe I was wrong about this). I understand that you designed these parts from scratch which is why I'm so impressed by the design and believe that it should be a stand-alone design (which I realize now that it is).

I'm glad I could help inspire (I thought the buttons looked familiar ;)). My only advice is that you potentially add some detailed pictures of the inside of the case so anyone trying to make this can get a feel for how the wiring comes together.

Again amazing work, you may have just inspired me to make a new version of my own project :D