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Ultimaker Belt Tensioner BANANA style (Rev. 3)

by vibrovirii, published

Ultimaker Belt Tensioner BANANA style (Rev. 3) by vibrovirii Mar 27, 2013

Description

REMIX found here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:84108

Since I liked the banana tuning from Jeremy: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:45236
but some people might not want to change their blocks. So I designed a working version that one can bolt on existing UM blocks.

I prefer to use solid blocks from chasmaker: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22157. It allows me to bolt on the tensioner with small bolts.

Use 10mm M3 bolts for mounting to chasmakers blocks. If you use longer ones for the tensioner check if endswitches work. Leave everything else original on the blocks. So if you have wooden blocks with long bolts already through them. Just remove the nuts. Screw back the bolts a bit and then use the tensioner as replacement of your nuts. So the tensioning bolts on the lever stay unchanged. It's often just a hair of adjustment extra needed.

Cura settings: .4mm nozzle and wall thickness, 100% infill.
Rotate the tens-case stl file 180 else you have to bridge. Solidworks messed up. Troubles rotanting the assembly.

Solidworks parts and assembly added. Do with it as you please. Please do improve.

Recent Comments

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im printing them out now. going to first try them with my original wooden blocks and see how they go. Great idea btw
Well chasmaker offers 2 versions, the solid one, or like the wood layers style, the wood style is 1 on 1 copy from i think a laser drawing, considering the bolt holes are 2.8 mm and not 3. Version 2 is a dimensionally correct copy with merged wood layers. Either way the end result is a copy of original dimensions. Since I imported the solid chasmaker block, sketched on the surface, converted entities, and extruded the sketch, so thats the reason in size change of the 4 bolt holes. And yes they use 30mm bolts, only the solid version of the blocks do not required to be holded together. So it saves you 4 30mm bolts. leaving empty bolt holes. Untabbed. Thats the reason i didn't change the 2.8 mm. So it will grib the thread of your bolt on a stock wooden linear block and replaces the 4 nuts. By knowing it has 2.8 mm holes, please do screw in a bolt before assembling, this way you create threading and assembly goes easier. cheers
Thanks for the reply :) I'll print this out and let u know how it goes.

Sorry for the confusion as I havent printed chasmaker blocks yet. From the pictures I thought they were EXACT replacements for the wooden blocks (ie. they use 30mm bolts too), but i guess they're not?

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Instructions

PS it was a very tight squeeze. I hope it fits for all. But it fits on my stock UM.

Sorry, could u explain again how to attach these.

Two scenarios:

1. Using wooden blocks, I just remove nuts, and print this out and attach them ON TOP of existing wooden blocks (screw into this instead of nuts)

2. Using chasmaker blocks --> Aren't chasmaker blocks 1 to 1 replacements for wooden parts? So how does attaching these differ from number 1 above?

Thanks!
the only thing that different is, 1 vs 2 = 1 uses 30mm nuts vs 2 uses 10 mm nuts. I don't like screwing in and out 30mm bolts and having to deal with the layers of wood that make up your linear block. So if you just keep stock linears blocks made of wood, dump the nutz, screw back the bolts a bit, pre screw your tensioner holes, then hold against wooden linear block, screw back your 30mm bolts and the tensioner functionts as your nutz.
Thanks for the reply :) I'll print this out and let u know how it goes.

Sorry for the confusion as I havent printed chasmaker blocks yet. From the pictures I thought they were EXACT replacements for the wooden blocks (ie. they use 30mm bolts too), but i guess they're not?
Well chasmaker offers 2 versions, the solid one, or like the wood layers style, the wood style is 1 on 1 copy from i think a laser drawing, considering the bolt holes are 2.8 mm and not 3. Version 2 is a dimensionally correct copy with merged wood layers. Either way the end result is a copy of original dimensions. Since I imported the solid chasmaker block, sketched on the surface, converted entities, and extruded the sketch, so thats the reason in size change of the 4 bolt holes. And yes they use 30mm bolts, only the solid version of the blocks do not required to be holded together. So it saves you 4 30mm bolts. leaving empty bolt holes. Untabbed. Thats the reason i didn't change the 2.8 mm. So it will grib the thread of your bolt on a stock wooden linear block and replaces the 4 nuts. By knowing it has 2.8 mm holes, please do screw in a bolt before assembling, this way you create threading and assembly goes easier. cheers
Did anyone make one? I'm curious. Thanks
im printing them out now. going to first try them with my original wooden blocks and see how they go. Great idea btw
What Ultimaker revision is this designed to work on?
I have a rev.1 Ultimaker (with 8mm rods for the head and not 6mm like the current revision) meaning that the blocks are a bit different from what I can see.
From rev.1:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ultimaker/5488406840/lightbox/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ultimaker/5488410802/lightbox/

From rev.3:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ultimaker/6236709845/lightbox/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ultimaker/6236773441/lightbox/

Thanks

Daniel
Perhaps you can still use them if you only bolt the lower 2 holes. I have it only bolted with one bolt. No movement whatsoever of the tensioner. Looks like they made them taller the rev 3 bocks.
Thanks fir the picture i see the lever has changed an such. Thanks for showing. My ultimaker is from Januari 2013 V3 i'd pressume. I've designed tensioner straight from the link of chasmaker which is of half way 2012. So I don't know. All I know is the blocks from chasmaker fit fine and look the same as the ones I received with the machine. So I had 0 issues bolting them on and they fit perfect for me. So by the looks of your pictures they won't fit on rev 1. Cheers.
Thanks a lot for your quick answer.
I have never since initial assemby over 1,5 years ago disassembed the block or X/Y construction. I tried to loose some screws to bring down the lever on one of the blocks but it's really stuck in there. Now I won't be able to tinker with the machine for some days. There are other things that make a v1 machine harder to upgrade...I'm thinking about just ordering a completely new pre-assembled machine for nice quality and upgradeability...
or at least the dimensions clearly stated? I'm busy with other stuff so if you can supply that, saves me a load of time :)
Well if you can find a 3d model of the rev 1 block i'll make it for you. You do not have to disassemble anything right? the only think you add is an addition to your current linear blocks.
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