jlguil's case-rap, portable 3d printer
by jlguil, published
look at case-rap 4.0
I can't understand howcome there is still people liking this printer... Because it is blue? The picture quality is better? I can tell you case-rap 4.0 is lightyear better than this one...
Smaller, lighter, easier to build, faster to swap from a position to the other.
I wanted a portable/foldable 8x8x8 reprap.
The main idea is that I didn't want it to fit in a suitecase, I wanted it to BE a suitecase!
I also needed it to be simple to build and not too expensive. It took me 12 h building and cost 350 CAD$
If you allready know about wood work, you'll find it easy to build!
This reprap is inspired from mendel 90 (because I was already working with this model) and from foldarap. I could have started from prusa i3. It would have been even smaller as the x rods are one over the other.
I will may be work on a case-rap "2.0" in the future that will be smaller and lighter.
(You're still reading this? look at: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:824763)
Hope you like it and if you build one, I Want pictures and comments please!
I recently designed hinges for the case-rap here is the link
jahck82 had improved the dxf file for the wood parts here is the link! Thanks!
Here is the list of material I used to build my case-raps. I live in Canada, so I tried to use stuff from here, I mean imperial screws, rods, wood, etc. But if you live in europe for exemple, you can use metric stuff and build the same printer! In this case, I suggest to print all my .stl parts, but mendel 90's, x motor bracket, x idler, and extruder.
5/8 mdf board or plywood. (here it is sold as 4x8 foot, way too much)
(It might be 1/2 in but you'll have to adjust the dimensions of you cuts.)
piano hinges, or anything you have.
5 metal latches
wood glue, hot glue gun
1 in 18 ga nail and gun, or anything else: wood screws, finish nails, etc)
5 stepper motors
electronic: I used ramps 1.4 with arduino and lcd+sd
electrical cables, To make it more "clean", I used 10 wires electrical cable
5/16 rods (buy 3 of 36 inches) but better if you can get real 8mm
10 lm8uuaj linear bearings that you can adjust to fit 5/16 rods.
or lm8uu if you have 8mm rods.
1/4-20 threaded rod (buy 1 of 36 inches, it's enough)
4 1/4-20 nuts
a set of belts and pulleys
1/2 or 5/8 wood screws
6-32 bolts nuts, and washers from 1 in to 3 inches
5 roller blades bearing (8mm in the center)
7 springs (for leveling, extruder, and z axis stabilisation)
3 micro switchs
12v 140W power supply (you'll need a less than 2 inches thick: a small one) a psu doesn't fit.
I did not prepare a detailled build instructions, but I droped on thingiverse my 3 .skp files. (It is for sketchup, if you don't have it, download "sketchup make", it is free.) There is the detailled mdf cut plan, and an other file where everything is "assembled", even printed parts. The orginal plan is for 5/8 mdf (16mm) and the new one is for 1/2 plywood (12mm)
First assemble all the wood piece with glue and nails. Make sure upper and lower parts fits together.
Then put them in working position and follow the mendel 90 build manual.
For printed parts, they are almost the same as mendel 90, but with several changes.
(1.They are designed to be able to adjust lm8uuAJ to fit 5/16 rods. 2. There is a left-right swap, because of ramps 1.4 sd card is on the left. 3. Some parts have been lightly modified to make it fit in the box. 4.General simplification: I removed all what was not essential)
I decided to class stl files into categories so you don't get lost trying to know where it is supposed to fit.
Here is the link for building instruction of original mendel 90:
For the wiring, I suggest the use of a multi-strand wire. It has to be flexible, and long enough to allow you going from transport to operation position.
before folding the printer, put the z axis to 165mm, and put the y carriage to the rear of the printer. Like this, the x carriage fits right between y rods.
Also, I recommend not to paint it because the paint sticks. Or put some oil where 2 parts are in contact.
And For the front panel, I recommend to put the hinges on the bottom side. So you don't have to hold it while position changes.
some people asked me for autocad files, I was able to generate a dxf file but I can't try it as I don't have autocad... But I uploaded it. Tell me how it works.
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jlguil's case-rap, portable 3d printer by jlguil is licensed under the GNU - GPL license.
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- Remixing or Changing this Thing is allowed.
- Commercial use is allowed.
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