prusa i3 aluminum frame w/ aluminum upgrades
by thainfamousnate, published
ive modified twelvopros design with the back braces to fit m10 threaded rod on the y axis, and upgraded alot of printed parts to be CNC cut out of 1/8" aluminum to match the 1/4" CNC'd aluminum frame. i3XL (300x300mm) is in development, look at the derivative for a sneek peek!!!
note: the stl files are from twelvopro
to mount a buda schnozzle or prusa nozzle to the x carriage use-- http://www.thingiverse.com/download:147063, (the buddasch_i3 file)
to mount a j head use --
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8252, ( the wades wildeyed mount file)
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this is my derivative of twelvopros i3 design. i upgraded most of the printed parts to 1/8" aluminum parts, the only printed parts are the x carriage, x motor bracket, x idler bearing bracket, the heated bed lm8uu holders, the endstop brackets from obijuan, and belt x tensioner from thinkyhead. i am working on making all parts out of aluminum.
designed for: m10 threaded rod, m8 threaded rod, m8 smooth rod, T2.5 belts and grub screws, lm8uus, a budaschnozzle, gregs extruder, and a RAMBo Board running repetier host, repetier firmware, and slic3r.
build is complete!!!
new .4mm prusa nozzle!!!
All smooth & threaded rods - Fastenal.com
Budascnozzle, RAMBo Board w/ cord & power supply: - Lulzbot.com
Printed Parts, NEMA 17s, lm8uus, & everything else: - ebay.com
M10 threaded rod - 2@18"
M5 threaded rod - 2@12"
M8 threaded rod - 3@ 9"
M8 smooth rod - 2@ 12-5/8" for z
- [email protected]" for y [email protected]" for x
second build i used 5/16" threaded rod instead of m8 and 3/8" threaded rod instead of m10. i also shortened the y axis by 1.5-2" to reduce the amount of tension needed on the belt a little.
i put the m8 smooth rod in an air drill and rubbed it with 0000 steel wool to make the bearings slide a little better( probably took off .002"). second build i used O1 steel rod from mcmastercarr and didnt have to steel wool it at all!
i bought two sets of 12 lm8uus and used the best of both (the inner plastic sleeve is of low quality). second build i used lm8uus from easyreprap on ebay, and every last one of them slides smoothly.
the marlin firmware wasnt working right so i switched to repetier firmware, much better
i am done calibrating all axises and extruder and am working on the endstops and home position.
software and firmware tweaks finished
up and Printing! 4/20/2013
added tiny heatsinks to the drivers and a fan on the RAMBo Board.
also a 75 mm LED ring around the nozzle to see the print area better, wired straight to the power supply( if i knew more about the firmware i would wire the LED Ring to the Board to turn on when a print starts).
prusa nozzle! 5/18/2013