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prusa i3 aluminum frame w/ aluminum upgrades

by thainfamousnate, published

prusa i3 aluminum frame w/ aluminum upgrades by thainfamousnate Mar 31, 2013

Description

ive modified twelvopros design with the back braces to fit m10 threaded rod on the y axis, and upgraded alot of printed parts to be CNC cut out of 1/8" aluminum to match the 1/4" CNC'd aluminum frame. i3XL (300x300mm) is in development, look at the derivative for a sneek peek!!!
note: the stl files are from twelvopro
to mount a buda schnozzle or prusa nozzle to the x carriage use-- thingiverse.com/download:147063, (the buddasch_i3 file)
to mount a j head use --
thingiverse.com/thing:8252, ( the wades wildeyed mount file)

Recent Comments

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I would like to buy the aluminum

Well done. Working on cutting the frame for my build. For those making your own, insure your materials are actually .25" thick. Mine are .258", which made assemply a challenge. Should have adjusted the holes for actual material thickness. Love the design, I will post pics when done.

Is it possible to get a full set of the drawings...the pictures are cropped and I can not see everything. I have the main frame CNCed from 1/4" alum but need the drawings of the corner blocks.
Thanks

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Instructions

this is my derivative of twelvopros i3 design. i upgraded most of the printed parts to 1/8" aluminum parts, the only printed parts are the x carriage, x motor bracket, x idler bearing bracket, the heated bed lm8uu holders, the endstop brackets from obijuan, and belt x tensioner from thinkyhead. i am working on making all parts out of aluminum.


designed for: m10 threaded rod, m8 threaded rod, m8 smooth rod, T2.5 belts and grub screws, lm8uus, a budaschnozzle, gregs extruder, and a RAMBo Board running repetier host, repetier firmware, and slic3r.

done calibrating
firmware tweaked
build is complete!!!
new .4mm prusa nozzle!!!
video soon!!!


Sourced Parts:
All smooth & threaded rods - Fastenal.com
Budascnozzle, RAMBo Board w/ cord & power supply: - Lulzbot.com
Printed Parts, NEMA 17s, lm8uus, & everything else: - ebay.com
Prusa Nozzle:
rerapdiscount.com

Cut List:
M10 threaded rod - 2@18"
M5 threaded rod - 2@12"
M8 threaded rod - 3@ 9"
- 1@11"
M8 smooth rod - 2@ 12-5/8" for z
- [email protected]" for y
[email protected]" for x
second build i used 5/16" threaded rod instead of m8 and 3/8" threaded rod instead of m10. i also shortened the y axis by 1.5-2" to reduce the amount of tension needed on the belt a little.

Build Notes:
i put the m8 smooth rod in an air drill and rubbed it with 0000 steel wool to make the bearings slide a little better( probably took off .002"). second build i used O1 steel rod from mcmastercarr and didnt have to steel wool it at all!

i bought two sets of 12 lm8uus and used the best of both (the inner plastic sleeve is of low quality). second build i used lm8uus from easyreprap on ebay, and every last one of them slides smoothly.


the marlin firmware wasnt working right so i switched to repetier firmware, much better

i am done calibrating all axises and extruder and am working on the endstops and home position.

software and firmware tweaks finished

up and Printing! 4/20/2013

update:
added tiny heatsinks to the drivers and a fan on the RAMBo Board.
also a 75 mm LED ring around the nozzle to see the print area better, wired straight to the power supply( if i knew more about the firmware i would wire the LED Ring to the Board to turn on when a print starts).

prusa nozzle! 5/18/2013

Comments

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ddutch13 on Feb 24, 2014 said:

I would like to buy the aluminum

rcazwillis on Dec 6, 2013 said:

Well done. Working on cutting the frame for my build. For those making your own, insure your materials are actually .25" thick. Mine are .258", which made assemply a challenge. Should have adjusted the holes for actual material thickness. Love the design, I will post pics when done.

tsenneville on Dec 3, 2013 said:

Is it possible to get a full set of the drawings...the pictures are cropped and I can not see everything. I have the main frame CNCed from 1/4" alum but need the drawings of the corner blocks.
Thanks

thainfamousnate on Nov 22, 2013 said:

i couldnt get marlin to work for the life of me so i swear by repetier host and firmware. if you want my repetier configuration file i can email it to you, the rigidity of the frame of this printer allows me to crank up the speeds, this thing zips around!

coltrain87 on Nov 19, 2013 said:

thainfamousnate,

I love your printer and actually made one from your plans! would you be able to send me the marlin firmware definitions so i can get started? thanks man

mpluma on Oct 28, 2013 said:

When are you going to start selling frames? Where can I find one?

jensnykaer on Nov 12, 2013 said:

I'll second that

Gris on Jul 5, 2013 said:

Hello, Great job !!

But I dont understand in you production_i3.dxf file, the pieces on the right are CN in 3mm aluminium ?

Have you a clear BOM list ? and may be some making doc or have you use this -> http://78.47.92.212/i3_documentation_pics/

Thanks for your answers

All the best for your projects.

thainfamousnate on Jul 5, 2013 said:

yes, on the right 3mm(1/8"), i do have a BOM, a outsourced parts list, and a hardware list( one overall nuts and bolts shopping list, and one hardware list showing what hardware each Plastic parts uses. i will post it soon after i verify it, ive been busy trying to CNC frames and print plastic parts to sell. also i changed some parts back from 1/8" aluminum to printed parts as they add more cnc time and are overkill. stay tuned!!

thainfamousnate on Jun 1, 2013 said:

the main frame, back braces, and heated bed carriage are meant to be CNC'd from 1/4" aluminum(roughly 6mm) and the parts "upgraded" from plastic are meant to be CNC'd from 1/8" aluminum(roughly 3mm). i reposted the updated files shortly after lamerhouse pointed it out, they now match the y corners.

luixcaetano on Jun 1, 2013 said:

Hi.

I'm sorry for the ignorance but how many mm are 1/8''? And is it correct? I have found a lot of other frames that are 1/4''.

Thanks

lamerhouse on May 21, 2013 said:

hello ...

sorry but the printer feet which you used .. that are not the original ones and some m8 and m10 .. do not go well with your measurements

thanks

thainfamousnate on May 21, 2013 said:

i checked and yes its slightly off. im modifying the dxf of the frame to show these modifications . funny thing is the machine pictured was built with those exact pieces and it doesnt seem off at all. i found the spacing from floor to M10 Threaded rod was off by .06". is this the amount of the off measurement you got?

lostrichy on May 10, 2013 said:

Hi, Whats the fitting at the top of the z axis threaded bar to the alloy plate? Can't quite tell from the photo's.

thainfamousnate on May 11, 2013 said:

608zz bearing, the m5 rod isnt constrained by it, it just floats around slightly and prevents the rod from rubbing against the frame

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