by MaverickIdeas, published
So bad news, we lost. Yup, in the process of losing we developed a new term for amature mistakes. "Revpol" this is defined as apply voltage backwards, or reverse polarization.
Anyway, we will be uploading all source code soon along with a BOM. In the meantime until the team is ready to upload everything I will answer questions regarding the build in the comments as to get people going.
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Hi MaverikIdeas. You guys did a great job on this robot. I love the look!
I am curious how you connected the turret up to the plexiglass top. Did you use any bearings between the two layers or just let them slide against each other?
At the end, what kind of weight is the arm capable of lifting? I am currently in the "studying stage" of my robot arm build and I am aiming for ~3lbs, if possible. I am also debating on using aluminum parts or print my parts for it, did you feel comfortable with the sturdiness of the printed arm?
Thank you and the team for sharing!
Note that i'm seeing 2 different robots here in the first 2 pictures. One that's rectangular and one that's bend for the plastic of the robot arm attached to the rotating platform. I personally like the rectangular thing more, missing the STL's though from it. Would prefer those in OpenSCAD most. Have those still somewhere?
Note for robot vision having a camera that's nearby 1 fps, why would that be a bad idea from your viewpoint? I'm intending to run self built robot vision software at say a quadcore ARM or something. Those very pricey to buy in. The SoC's are $30 a piece if i buy a 100 at a time at 1.0Ghz, but a SoC in itself is not usable. The Odroid thing is $89 and quadcore 1.7Ghz or so. That's a tad expensive. The electronics is massively overexpensive for the robots.
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These were printed, but I had to dremel out a nice amount of material to create a bevel for the sprocket gear to enter and exit the linkage without bindage.
I used a drill bit to clear the holes keeping all holes in the tracks consistent at around 3 mm-3.1 mm whatever drill bit you have. I then used cut pieces of polycarbonate 3mm longer the the tracks are wide. Insert and use a lighter to get the end hot and then use the lighter to push the rod in the tracks "mushing" the soft plastic and creating a riveting effect. The repeat on the other side. Leave one link where this is not done on the outer side; this is your master link. ABS should work just fine.
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