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Replicator Dual: extruder fix based on Makerbot Rep2 fix

by RodLaird, published

Replicator Dual: extruder fix based on Makerbot Rep2 fix by RodLaird Apr 6, 2013

Description

This variant uses the hardware available from the Makerbot store - just tweaks the hinge point to ensure it fits and works under the Replicator dual top mount.

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Ok, I've printed this out several times and I've got a set on my Replicator 1 Dual working nicely. Things I found out.

1) I was never able to get both sides to work in one print. The base plate for the left extruder kept warping. I ended up loading the STL file into Turbocad, deleting the right set, and printing the left by its own and that gave me a good print.

2) The support that prints under the middle is a pain to remove. The basic thing removes but you really really want the back plate to mount flat on the stepper without tension. To get that to work I used a rotoary tool (aka a moto-tool) to remove the excess material that ended up on the bottom side where that support is.

3) Post that goes up through the bearing is somewhat fragile. If you put the bearing cover on and then take it off roughly you stand a good chance of breaking it.

4) Printing this with the defaults for the Replicator is fine, although once modified I find I get better prints with the Rep2 defaults. One side effect of this upgrade is that retracts get better (the stepper grips the filament harder)

5) It is important to check for clearance issues between the bottom of the grub gear and the bottom of the bracket. If you get left over material or other stuff in there it can bind which will cause the motor to work harder to turn. So clean any strings or chips out of there.

6) Don't print it with a raft, you will want the back sides of the pieces to be as smooth as possible. I used 240C and 110C for the bed for a black ABS print.

And of course in general don't be bashful about printing another one if one doesn't seem quite right!
Is that 'Jagged Seams' flag on by default ?
Is that 'Jagged seams' flag on by default ? If so, that's dumb....

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Instructions

The source files are there if you want to tweak things further for any reason. The original suggestion of setting the wall thickness to 3 and fill to 10% works well.

UPDATE: There is an additional STL which has been exported from Rhino3D with some different settings which should make it easier to print with the latest version of Makerware. (The previous version works fine with Skeinforge/ReplicatOrg)

Ok, I've printed this out several times and I've got a set on my Replicator 1 Dual working nicely. Things I found out.

1) I was never able to get both sides to work in one print. The base plate for the left extruder kept warping. I ended up loading the STL file into Turbocad, deleting the right set, and printing the left by its own and that gave me a good print.

2) The support that prints under the middle is a pain to remove. The basic thing removes but you really really want the back plate to mount flat on the stepper without tension. To get that to work I used a rotoary tool (aka a moto-tool) to remove the excess material that ended up on the bottom side where that support is.

3) Post that goes up through the bearing is somewhat fragile. If you put the bearing cover on and then take it off roughly you stand a good chance of breaking it.

4) Printing this with the defaults for the Replicator is fine, although once modified I find I get better prints with the Rep2 defaults. One side effect of this upgrade is that retracts get better (the stepper grips the filament harder)

5) It is important to check for clearance issues between the bottom of the grub gear and the bottom of the bracket. If you get left over material or other stuff in there it can bind which will cause the motor to work harder to turn. So clean any strings or chips out of there.

6) Don't print it with a raft, you will want the back sides of the pieces to be as smooth as possible. I used 240C and 110C for the bed for a black ABS print.

And of course in general don't be bashful about printing another one if one doesn't seem quite right!
This mesh is non manifold. Makerbots latest slicer creates extra plastic. What did you use to export this ?
Interesting. I have reloaded the above STL file in Rhino and it shows no non-manifold edges. Netfabb also shows that the STL has no problems. So I am not sure why you think it non-manifold... In any case as noted in the instructions, the source files are available in Rhino (3DM) and STEP formats. Let me know what software is showing this STL as non-manifold... I am curious. I print using ReplicatOrg generally because of its greated control so would not pick up a makerware problem. cheers R
Thanks Rod. I use blender for mesh checking, it has a 'select non manifold' option in point and edge edit modes. In your .stl, every time there was a transition from high to medium res subdivisions, there was no stitching geometry to marry up the transition, it was just lots of points left in mid air - spatially on another edge - but not actually joined / welded. The latest MakerWare slicer started to add weird diagonals when it printed, it obviously looked okay when rendered, but that doesn't mean its manifold / watertight.

I have re-stitched the mesh by hand, and uploaded it, along with the fixed blend file. Your mod works great by the way - thanks so much for doing this, my delrin plungers had finally worn through, so I really needed this!

thingiverse.com/thing:107465
Replicator Dual: extruder fix based on Makerbot Rep2 fix - Manifold / remesh Fix
I went back into Netfabb and found that indeed it showed some holes (which it can of course repair.).

Clearly what Rhino says is "clean" - isn't. Thanks for drawing attention to this; Skeinforge seems to blast right through these problems. I will contact McNeel to get their rede on this too; I would expect software of Rhino3D's calibre to deliver clean STLs after their edge checking has been applied and reports a clean file!
Cool. Give Blender a whirl for validation, it's free, but a little hard to use. That may seem like an understatement when you first load it up :) It still won't detect crossed quads and the like, just failings in basic topology (i.e. open edges)
I tweaked the Rhino3D STL export settings and have put up a clean version of the STL here too...

Thanks for spotting this; I would never have picked it with the Skeinforge slicer... All my STL's should be clean from here in...
Great job Rod, Blender gives the new file (NO_ERRORS) the all clear, looks like a good clean export - what were the changes you made, should I ever decide to use Rhino ? I won't print the new file (my printer is fixed now - yay!) but, for your information, I was using MakerWare 2.2.0.49. Thanks again for the Replicator (1) Dual mod that uses the purchasable hardware kit - this was convenient for me.
There is an optional export flag for STLs that allows for "Jagged seams". Your comment on the resolution transition problem clued me that this may be the issue. Disabling this option cleaned the STL...

I will be trying out the 2.2 MW as soon as I clear my desk queue. As it happens I sold my Replucator dual with the extruder fixes to a mate of my son who is now putting it to good use. I am now enjoying a Rep2X - which of course comes with the "next generation" extruder heads. You will have twigged to this change if you look at my things, as I have produced a set of hinges / handle for the lid. Nice kit. I am hoping the acquisition of Makerbot by Stratsys will bring some of their software patents; some of them have the potential to significantly improve slicing / printing... We shall see ;-)
Is that 'Jagged Seams' flag on by default ?
Is that 'Jagged seams' flag on by default ? If so, that's dumb....
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