Test your 3D printer!

by ctrlV, published

Test your 3D printer! by ctrlV Mar 1, 2015

Verified Files

149 Share
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Order This Printed View All Apps

Use This Project

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag

Thing Statistics

171151Views 36646Downloads Found in 3D Printing Tests


check out the new version 2

version 3

more infos in our forum

This is a hard to print testfile!
often you don't know if your printer is ready for complex files. with this file you have an easy option to check problematic printing/slicing stuff.

does your printer challenge this ultimative part?
check it out and get (almost) instant results.

these test are included in this tiny file:

  • size: the object is 4x50x50mm (baseplate)
  • hole size: 3 holes (3/4/5mm)
  • Nut size: M4 Nut should fit perfectly
  • fine details: pyramide, cone, all numbers
  • rounded print: wave, half sphere
  • minimum distance between walls: 0.1/0.2/0.3/0.4/0.5mm
  • overhang: 25°/30°/35°/40°/45°
  • bridge print: 2/3/4/5/6/7/8/9mm
  • surface: all the flat parts

there could be a lot of things go wrong, here the most common ones

  • your printbed is not leveled (should be better than layerheigth you're printing, e.g use a Micrometre)
  • your axis (Y/X/Z) clearence (with higher speed you also get problems with the moving mass)
  • your slicer and configuration (every slicer handles things different and could contain bugs)
  • retract settings (not correctly set you will see blobs or holes on every retract position)
  • to high temperature (small details will get overheated)
  • to reach this time, your printer should run between 60-200mm/s, infill as fast as possible. not every printer works in this range, so try to figure out where you're printer limit is.
  • text is hard to read > use a smaller nozzle/other slicer


infill: 33% infill or similar
layerheight: choose the smallest possible layerheight. optimal 0.1mm or lower
print time: about 50 minutes, depending on your printer & settings. ) to reach this time, your printer should run between 60-200mm/s)
raft; you can use a raft

More from 3D Printing Tests

view more

All Apps

3D Print your file with 3D Hubs, the world’s largest online marketplace for 3D printing services.

App Info Launch App

This App connects Thingiverse with Makeprintable, a cloud-based mesh repair service that analyzes, validates and repairs most common mesh errors that can occur when preparing a 3D design file for p...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App
Aug 28, 2016 - Modified Aug 28, 2016

So, I tried this out, and it looked pretty good to my mind, til I realized that it never actually finished the top layers.

I'm using an MP Select Mini, and as you can see from the pictures, the two main issues I have are a bit of stringiness, and the fact that hte never actually finished the tops of anything. I'm using Hatchbox PLA at 190c. From the reel it says I can go from 180 to 210, so I guess I can try a higher temp and see what happens.


ETA: Interestingly, when I look at this file in the slicer in Repetier, I also see it the way it printed - honeycomb with no lines...

check > Layers and perimeters > horizontal shells > top > set to 3 or more

Pls help me print Jedi...Newb? - yeh I am. Begging? Sure.

Thanks so much for your help!


3D Print Test Model for Review / Critique

you can click "i Made One" instead of creating a new model so all users can see what other prints look like.

please provide this informations

  • material
  • speed
  • temperature

I'm using PLA. Simplify3D.

Fans are 100 after 1st layer

Bed temp is 70. When I go to 60 the first layer doesn't stick well...or maybe it was the other extruder that I'v now moved out of the way so it doesn't snag on the layers.

Nozzle temp was 190.

What's the general principles to temps? Should I aim for lowest bed temp / highest nozzle temp or something like this? I'm a bit lost tbh.

I followed the setting on the OP guide. I think it was set to the lowest speed (3600 mm/per min...worked out to be 60mm / sec).


  • Fan should not be used for the first layers.
  • Bed is ok with 70°C, if it does not stick, level your bed.
  • try higher temperature (range could be 160-230°C for PLA)

Thanks you!

Any idea how come the top layer isn't filled in?

Also I'm confused about Nozzle width vs resolution...If the Nozzle is set to 0.4 I can still print at 0.1 resolution? Does this mean a 0.4mm nozzle can extrude thinner than 0.4?


if the top layer is not filled > check temperature > lower speed > other material (to exclude material problems).

the 0.4mm nozzle gives you minimal 0.4mm extrusion width.
with 0.1mm layerheight the extrusion will be squished.
your printer has to be leveled well, you can use a raft to get a flat startpoint.

the slicer calculate the volume needed from these parameters:

  • filament diameter
  • extrusion multiplier
  • layer height
  • nozzle diameter

Great test sample.

Mar 27, 2016 - Modified Mar 27, 2016
ctrlV - in reply to Horridmemory
  • it seems the buildplate is not 100% even (backside bottom has gaps in the left down side) > try to use a raft
  • the pyramide has some stairs, could be from x/y clearence and/or to fast printing speed

  • maybe try another slicer http://www.whoote.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=9
    CraftWare is very promising

some questions

  • what print material & temperature did you use?
  • slicer including version
  • printer connection (USB/SD/LAN)

you get more results with http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1363023

Test your 3D printer! v3
by ctrlV

[email protected],slic3r v1.2.9 over usb. going to get a glass build plate when i get the chance so that should fix that but ill try a raft in the meantime. i was thinking either the hardware isnt secured properly or the cheap filament im using (no idea where it came from was a gift with printer) is why im getting stairs on the pyramid and lines in the side of my print. good guesses? im currently trying to fix some bolts that keep coming loose on the x axis bearings with a dab of elmers glue. upon inspection it appears the bearings on the right side have left some scratches on the smooth rod.will i need to replace the rod as well as the bearings? its not super bad but its not completely smooth in that spot anymore.

hard to see.
in the top view, the bridge with 0.95 seems broken. so 1.0 seems better. the top surface should be perfectly flat.
retraction seems to be too low > fine strings between walls. (speed up and/or use more distance)

ive 2 mm retraction and 30mms retraction speed. if i get it up to 60mms my filament get stuck. (the hobbed bites filament)
extra retraction distance is set up to 0 and retraction lift its 0 too

try to increase retraction in 0.1 mm steps with 30 mm/s.

i cant print this for poop =(

It would be nice if you export the model again with higher angle resolution. The big circle is more like a hexadecagon

have a look at version 2 here


Test your 3D printer! v2
by ctrlV

Oh nice. Thanks!

Hi CtrIV i have make several test and these are result:

what do you think?

Other information:
PLA Unknow Slicer CURA
Nozzle 0.35
speed work 40 mm/s
speed no Work 60-130mm/s
192° C

Any tips?
some TIps?

Hi Fregius1

  • it seems the retract is to small.
  • use more retratct mm and/or more retract speed.
  • is it a direct or bowden extruder?
Sep 26, 2015 - Modified Sep 26, 2015
Fregius1 - in reply to ctrlV

Hi CtrIV

i have not used the retract

It is a bowden extruder

can you tell me any parameters for the retraction?

  • depends on the lenght of the bowden, inner diameter and material.

  • you can iterate from 1-10mm, in 1mm steps
  • speed 20-200mm/s depending on the feeder hardware (as fast as possible)

  • blobs = more retract
  • holes = less retract

Hi CtrIV

my bowden is lenght 700mm
inner diam is 2mm
material PLA

I test with the retract and let you know.


Hi CtrlV,

i have made the first test, very bad:

i have insert Cura parameters

What do you think?

  • try to lower temeperature, since it's a unknown material.
  • lower in 5°C steps (range could be 160-230°C for PLA)

  • the bowden is long, maybe you need more distance.

Apparently my machine is super slow. All these estimated times are usually double for me. I am still trying to calibrate this prusa i3 properly. I finally found a way to keep the bed near proper leveling at all times, no matter how many prints I do.

I just cannot seem to find proper settings. Anyone have a Prusa i3 Geetech Pro C dual extruder? I have mastered keeping it clear of jams, producing average quality prints but with excessive run times. I am working on getting proper cooling on the machine, I keep it lubed properly with the right lubrication. The board gets proper air flow, the borisilicate glass is secured to the heated bed with high quality painters tape which I have become a master at applying.

I just cannot seem to find a good method to get it reliably at set to print, watch it get a stable base and walk away. It seems to be 50/50 if it will produce well or not.

did you level your printbed?
(should be better than layerheigth you're printing, e.g use a Micrometre)

Yes, I have used several calibration tests and have gotten it so accurate to where bed leveling is never an issue to me. I am working on a permanent solution to Z calibration being lost but that is easily fixed before the first layer is completed.

I don't use software calibration for leveling or z height, I do it all hardware related. If I set my machine at others rated speeds of up to 120mm/s I end up with tons of string, loose infill which results in poor prints. I can't figure out how others get print speeds that are so quick. I don't mind waiting a long time for my prints but if there is a way I can alter it I'd love to do it!

I also have set my POTS on my driver boards to all the same calculated and measured voltages. I have also secured my extruder mount as tightly as possible to prevent sag. The only thing I can think of is machine resonance and poor build design of the geeetech series.

The belt motors for X and Y axis use one toothed gear which is tightened onto the motor but the other side is a wing nut double ball bearing unit. It easily causes friction as it cannot stay stable. I am working on a solution that does not wobble or rely on a perfect system, ie, using the teeth of the belt to ensure it stays locked into a horizontal position and doesn't go side to side.

What is happening is the smooth double ball bearings are wobbling causing the belts to grind against the side of the brackets. I believe this could be part of my problem. The unit is a screw, a lock nut, a bracket and two ball bearings, altogether these create a smooth platform opposite of the motor to move the belt. I believe it is "too" smooth as the belt continues to rub up against the bracket resulting in lots of "dust" which is the belt wearing down. If you could help me think of a solution I would be eternally grateful.

Sep 23, 2015 - Modified Sep 23, 2015
ctrlV - in reply to HenryGuy
  • so with lower speed about 20-30mm/s it works?
  • maybe a photo or video could help.
  • the construction looks not very rigid on the pictures.
  • is there any visible torsion if you try to bend the x axis?
  • does the printer have rubber feet?
  • what material you try to print with?

It works with 40-60mm/s though several types of prints do not work at all, spiral vases in particular. How would I check for visible torsion? I'm kinda confused by that.

I did put rubber feet all around the base but overall the build actually spreads the movement out evenly. I print exclusively with PLA while I am trying to calibrate the machine. Once I can reliably get continuous good prints from it I will try other materials.

I'll try to take a good photo of it soon.

  • each printer has a speed limit, depending on the weight of the moving parts and the strenght of the stepper motors.
  • the rigidity is important. to check try to gently push the nozzle in the x/y axis and watch if there is any visible movement (torsion).
  • what happens in vase mode?
  • what pla brand is it?

please check picture in the forum:

Sep 27, 2015 - Modified Sep 27, 2015
HenryGuy - in reply to ctrlV

The average top end speed on my printer, Prusa i3, is roughly 120mm/s if it's tuned properly.

I have rubber feet all over the base, the machine does not move or have any sort of visible torsion. It's actually pretty smooth overall and pretty quiet from other machines I've seen. I fall asleep while it's printing all the time. It just randomly skips or shifts on the Y-axis and I need to retune the POT on the second Z-axis motor as it gets "stuck" sometimes during a print.

I got photos of what I believe to be the poorly designed brackets with bearings. No matter how I adjust it I cannot get the belt to stay centered which inevitably causes a ton of friction when the belt hits the bracket. As you can see, there is tons of rubber dust from the belt grinding and I clean it up every other day. I print every day as much as I can but some days I give up due to little errors that I mentioned above.

Long prints seem to always "randomly" shift on the Y-axis and if I don't pay attention my Z-axis may lose leveling due to one of the Z-axis motors failing to function (need to adjust POT once more). This is easily fixed by paying more attention to the X-axis before starting the print, usually I can eyeball the level but I have a level I bought that fits the X-axis perfect for leveling (it's tiny and super accurate).

Hoping to find a solution to this belt bracket as it just seems so... poorly designed. I have measured the gap from either side and have both the motor gear and the bracket centered perfectly so they are not off axis which would cause the belt to shift from side to side. It is simply that inevitably it shifts a little to either side which causes the belt to shift to the edge and start grinding. I saw a post for a bunch of different gears that can be customized, based on your opinion, do you see a way I can change this set up to reduce the belt rubbing and subsequently reduce the strain on the motor while hopefully alleviating the Y-axis shifting altogether.

PS: If I tighten that wing nut anymore I have to raise the power on the motor so high it gets super hot due to the tension being so high from tightening the bracket. How its tightened now it has perfect slack.

  • with 2 Z steppers it can happen that you loose steps on one side, which results in a jam.
  • maybe a little bit more power to the steppers can help.
  • the other more complicated way is to build a z-axis driven from one stepper.

  • the bracket is not easy to solve. the belt should run guided on each side.
  • maybe use a smaller bearing and print a pully with a guide (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16627)
  • use 2x F604 ZZ bearing if there is enough clearing
Parametric pulley - lots of tooth profiles

Thanks I will try that bearing

Sep 16, 2015 - Modified Sep 16, 2015

Thanks for this calibration thing.

Here is mine:

What you think. The Bridging was a nightmare. Letters not that visible. Measures 49.9mm both sides.

I think I have some stringing due to hight temperature used for PLA. 210c which is normal but a bit high for his type of PLA I guess?

Some blobs on the round bit...

What you think must I correct?

Test your 3D printer!

what pla & slicer you used?

I used some no name PLA from eBay and CURA.

PLA should be heated at 210c according to the box but I found it prints better at 200c.

try to find the lowest possible extrusion temperature:

  • heat to 210C°
  • feed manually some filament.
  • lower in 5C° steps until the stepper misses steps.
  • compare the different extruded pieces (check for blobs/irregularities)
  • dial the temperature from the best extrusion.

  • since the model is to small it's possible that the extrusion width is to small
  • check the filament diameter
  • for bridging make use of the cooler
  • blobs come normally from to much material
Aug 12, 2015 - Modified Aug 12, 2015

After changing filament, things are now a lot better. I can finish the print and I don't think its that bad.
Edges lift though and I wish the quality were a tad bit better.




print were done at 230C with 110C bed, 0,2mm layers

Aug 8, 2015 - Modified Aug 8, 2015

There you go. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B25jT6STybhMSV9oZXNGNXRFYnc/view?usp=sharing I also made a 175% print and I can read the numbers and CTRLVTest. My extursion width 0.88 mm for now for 0.8 mm nozzle. I can imagine if the letters are thinner than 0.88 mm slicer program dont reads them. I also forgot to close supports for the small print.
I didnt take any post print actions like clean the webs etc.

ctrlV - in reply to EGG84

the small parts are to small for 0.88mm. they about 0.5mm.

Is there also a version for E3D volcano? With big diameter you cannot read "CTRLVTEST" but the rest is ok :)

ctrlV - in reply to EGG84

got a picture?

I am new at 3d printing and I have been strugeling to get my printer to work as I wish it to.
Simple prints work just fine and I can't really find any issues with those.
But when I try more complicated prints, I always get into truble. So far I have not been able to print any kind of support, machine starts printing them then they just fall appart and machine keeps printing in empty air. Always have to refeed the extruder after this also.
So a friend tipped me about this build as a way to truble shoot my maschine, so I gave it a go.


this is what happend. It looks just like the issues I have with supports, starts alittle bit, but then it prints in air. I have no idea how to tweek the settings.
I use a makerbot Replicated 2x, Bed is 110C, extruder is 225C.
I don't really know what other settings I should tell you about yet, I just don't know the machine and hobby well enough yet to understand all of it.

looks like a not correctly working extruder. hard to guess. maybe you can create a video.

  • i assume you have the standard settings in your printing software (Makerware).
  • try to extrude abs without printing anything. you should get a small continuous string. if not try with 5C more Temperature Steps until it works. do not go higher than 250C with ABS.
  • check for jams, since it printed the raft it could be a temperature issue, that occurs after some time.

I have extruded fillament several times after I pull the fillament out of the extruder to refeed it. Always get a nice stream of hot fillament, does not seem to be any issues there.
I have also printed several simple prints without any details without any issues, so I don't think it clogges after a while. Also done larger rafts without any issues. its always when fine details come into play, Supports or similar.
Yes, I have the standard settings. I also did a factory reset yesterday of the mahcine after a firmware upgrade, to no avail.

do you have a picture of something simple with the same filament?
what layerheight you try to print the ctrlV Test?
which filament you use?
there is no support needed for this part.
did you level the bed?
does the printpreview show the part correctly?
a video could show more.

Aug 6, 2015 - Modified Aug 6, 2015
Vanklow - in reply to ctrlV



second try.
Tried to level the bed even better.

Changed platform temp from 110 to 103
extruder temp from 225 to 230
retraction distance from 1,3 to 1,0
retraction speed from 25mm/s to 40mm/s

using ABS filament
have been priting with 0,1mm layers, like you said in instructions.

will try one last time today without raft, just to see.

  • looks better
  • what happens exactly when the print stops/fails? (extruderjam or printing in the air?)

pretty sure its jamming, partially first and then total. Thats where all those thin strands comes from. Before its acting up, the print looks perfect

  • try another abs if possible, it could also be a defective extruder.
  • is there any sound while jamming?
  • is the extruder motor hot?
Aug 7, 2015 - Modified Aug 7, 2015
Vanklow - in reply to ctrlV

I will try to feed the fillament into the other extruder and test thatone, but if its the fillament, I will have to buy some new.
We will see.
thanks for helping me out in this feeble beginner fase.
no sound and motor is not hot

Just a suggestion, but it would be much easier to visualize the undersides of the overhang test if it leaned toward the outside of the part rather than toward the bridge test.

Thanks for the input. i will have a look to it.

This comment has been deleted.

Are there any more hints as to how to print this? Can I print it with a raft or not?

ctrlV - in reply to davron

you can use a raft.
what kind of tips you would like?

Hey ctrlV, thanks for the awesome design! I've been looking for something like this, glad I found your model.

Starting to use ABS (PLA is fine) and having issues so it is time to dive deeper into the Slic3r settings!

Printed in 1.5 hours, too slow but I don't want to mess with anything until I asked for your thoughts on the print.

Here is the Slic3r config file: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_taEg5rj9qIa2RMYW90aGJBTkk/view?usp=sharing

Pics: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B_taEg5rj9qIflB4cnZGVmNhbXdrRUdnR3dpeFV4ZFN6TGRaLXp5Z3lhZFBrMFZzQ09KR1U&usp=sharing

Bunch of pics of various angles, probably overkill. Main issues are one corner lifts (using kapton tape on Creator Pro), the bridge section is botched pretty bad, walls aren't good, lettering has issues, overhangs are all connected.

Any input you could provide would be great.
Thanks again for a awesome model!

it seems there are a lot of problems
flatness of the printbed, the bottom looks not complete, try to use a raft or level your bed.
maybe overextrusion (you extrude with 1.1 multiplier)
temperature could be to low
filament_diameter is set to 1.75mm, double check this, normally you have smaller dia as written on the spool.

Jun 10, 2015 - Modified Jun 10, 2015

Hey ctrlV, great model mate, thank you. Temp 150 deg, speed 200mm/s, style 150um, 33% infill. 1hr50 to print. Using KISSlicer but I'm not having much luck with detail or removing stringyness.Tried new filament (colorFABB PLA/PHA) but still the same. Any help here will be greatly appreciated, thanks.


150C° seems a little bit low, since colorfabb tells 195-220C*.
adjust retract setting in 1mm steps.

Sorry that was a typo, 180C was my temp but I did try it at 220C but had 3 times more string and much less definition. Have retract (suck) at 3 (default), but I have had retract (suck) up to 10 (other prints) with no significant change in string or definition.

prime and suck are normally the same with a direct Extruder.
what speed/min jump/trigger you've set?
whats your printer?

Jun 11, 2015 - Modified Jun 11, 2015
johnpaulgrosser - in reply to ctrlV

Type A Machine Series 1 2013, speed 70mm/s, min jump 1mm, trigger 5mm

some PLA Brands tend to string if the temperature is to high, try to get the lowest temperature you can print.
go down in 5C° steps until the extruder jams. raise for a few °C and try to print.

I have attempted more reprints at different temps with Kisslicer, but no real change.

As a quick experiment I installed Slic3r and the results are completely different. Still needs some work with the settings but see for yourself.

seems better than the first version, did you use the same retract settings in slic3r?

some PLA Brands tend to string if the temperature is to high, try to get the lowest temperature you can print.
go down in 5C° steps until the extruder jams. raise for a few °C and try to print.

Hey, I printed this and it came out pretty good but, the numbers are not showing perfectly and I Have some nozzle marks on the print too.
What can be the cause of it?
I'm using Slic3r 0.1mm layers ABS in a Makergear M2

Here are the photos:


Thanks in advance!

these things come in mind:

  • overextrusion (on the photo the top is not flat)
  • lower the print speed and/or enhance your X/Y clearance. (your print looks a little bit shaky)
  • try another slicer (Slic3r could contain bugs depending on version)
  • check your extrusion width (http://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math)
  • retract setting seems not optimal (strings and blobs)
  • the first layer seems to be at wrong height (or you have brim enabled)

Sorry for the noob questions, I just bought the printer a few days ago and I'm learning on the way.
Ok so there's overextrusion, that can be fixed by changing the extrusion width right? in Slic3r, is that modified by the extrusion multiplier? I should lower that number? I have a 0.35mm nozzle diameter if that helps. 1.75 filament diameter
How do I enhance the X/Y clearance? (I will try lowering the speed but I would like to know what this means...
The retract settings seem not optimal, should I retract less or more?
The first layer has no brim enabled and is at same height as the rest of the layers, what should I do?
Thanks a lot for all the help!!

overextrusion means too much plastic, you can change that with the correct filament diameter or extrusion multiplier. lower it until you get a flat part.
X/Y clearance is how precise the toolhead moves over the axis, since every moving part need to have a little bit tolerance.
this is normally given by the printer mechanics. in your case the linear rails.
there are fine strings, so try to lower the retract a little bit.(also depends on the material & temperature)
tha first layer seems to be squezzed, maybe your printing your first layer to low.

do blobs on the sides of pointy bits (pyramid, cones) have to do with retract settings?

sounds like, a picture can tell more.

This comment has been deleted.
This comment has been deleted.
This comment has been deleted.

I'm running Mattercontrol on my MOST Delta printer and with "normal settings" mine said it was going to be about 1:55 to print. What speeds do you have your machines at? I finally changed layer height to 0.15 and that put the time down to 1:17 running at 75mm/s. The details are not great but I have not tried any measuring yet.

to reach this time, your printer should run between 60-200mm/s, infill as fast as possible.
not every printer works in this range, so try to figure out where you're printer limit is.

This comment has been deleted.
This comment has been deleted.
This comment has been deleted.
This comment has been deleted.
This comment has been deleted.

Thank you very much!!

Thanks for this test print. If my numbers and letters are hard to read what can I do to make them more readable? Should I start with adjusting the temperature of the extruder nozzle? Where could I start tweaking things to make a better print?

All of the other aspects of the test seemed to work great on my printer.

Mar 9, 2015 - Modified Mar 9, 2015
ctrlV - in reply to danrockwell

if possible share a picture

these could help

  • lower the print speed
  • try another slicer
  • lower temperature
  • use a smaller nozzle
  • enhance your X/Y clearance
This comment has been deleted.

I need some tuning tips for speeds, acceleration, and feed rates. The instructions say this should print in 50 min, it took my printer 2hrs 41 min. way too slow compared to others.

without more details it's hard to answer.
set your infill to a high speed, since this is not seen on the outside.

thanks for this, ran this through Makerbot to my Flashforge Creator and very pleased with the results.

glad to hear, do you got a picture?

So, let's assume I'm a newbie to 3d printing (I'm not but there's always more to learn!)

What are some of the things that are likely to go wrong when printing this, and what are the possible causes of those things?

ctrlV - in reply to mushoo

there could be a lot of things go wrong, here the most common ones

  • your printbed is not leveled (should be better than layerheigth you're printing, e.g use a Micrometre)
  • your axis (Y/X/Z) clearence (with higher speed you also get problems with the moving mass)
  • your slicer and configuration (every slicer handles things different and could contain bugs)
  • retract settings (not correctly set you will see blobs or holes on every retract position)
  • to high temperature (small details will get overheated)

you can compare the existing prints from the other users.

Here are some more infos about his part.

This comment has been deleted.