MakerBot Filament Spool Holder

by charlespax, published

MakerBot Filament Spool Holder by charlespax Mar 18, 2011

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MakerBot Industries now sells filament on spools! Here is a spool holder you can mount on you Thing-O-Matic or Cupcake CNC in place of any rod cover.

You should also print the spool housing to keep you filament nice and tidy. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8762

If you want to stack two spools, checkout tbusers Spool Stacker http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:9198


1) Print spool holder.
2) Remove one rod cover from your MakerBot
3) Mount spool holder.

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May I have the size of makerbot filament spool?
Out Diameter, Inner diameter and Reel diameter?

Does the spool revolve, or does the filament unwind off of the stationary spool?

The filament spool spins on the stationary spool holder unwinding the filament.

But you probably will waste quite a lot of material trying to get one that won't crack along the build layers.

The arms on the holder cracked, I was using an TOM with MK6 Plus .4mm, 100% infill and one shell and white ABS. Any suggestions?

Printed with 3 shells 15% infill and the arms crack - otherwise it would hold the spool perfectly. The print looked great otherwise. Wonder if the MK7 needs some different settings due to the nozzle size differences. Might try "glueing" it with ABS cement. There is a small enough space between the shells I could almost fit a sheet of thin metal between them.

Mine prints fine, but when the arms bend slightly to snap into the spool, one cracks, is there a recommended set of settings that enable the right level of flexibility? I was using the mk7 defaults (1shell, 30% infill). Perhaps a thinner wall (no shells) or a lower infill?

Up the number of shells to something like two or three. When printed the arms should without infill, only concentric shells. The wall thickness was designed such that the inner most shell will adhere to itself.

Can you explain this a little more. "When printed the arms should without infill, only concentric shells."

I am not Makerbot savvy enough to understand this. O:-)

It looks like I'm not very savvy with English. I meant the thin vertical piexes will not have infill. The three shells on the outside of the part will merge together and create a six shell thick wall.

I couldn't use it to hold the spool without tangling so I'm using it to hold a sponge that my filament runs through to clean it. Works nice for that. =-X

The spool holder can be used in place of a rod cover on the side of the bot. This may solve your tangling issues.

I printed this up and installed it and am having a small problem. IT works fine at first but after a few rotations of the spool the filament starts to get twisted up and kink, similar to what happens when you straighten up a garden hose or cable that is coiled up on the ground.

Is anyone else having this problem, and if so how did you solve it?

This printed very nicely on my Cupcake w/ Mk5
amp; HBP. You can see my derivative pic up top (finally got around to taking a photo). Now to print a filament lead so the filament doesn't interfere with the top belt.

I switched to the natural ABS and kept essentially the same settings (increased temperature to 235 which worked very well for me in the past) and I am getting significantly better layer adherance. I had originally tuned my TOM for that plastic, and switched to the black ABS only when I ran out. I haven't printed this piece yet, but I anticipate a much better print. I suspect ultimately that my temp wasn't high enough, as you say the black ABS needs ~+5 degrees.

I think the roughness may be related because again, I don't get the same with the natural. I know that I skipped a few times during the print pictured, however I didn't on the other one. I am using the better print to hold my new natural ABS spool. My black ABS wasn't on a spool so it keeps gettin
g tangled if I am not dilligent about feeding it properly (that's why I'm printing spool holders here...).

Anyway, thanks for your feedback. I've got to go get Replicatorg0025 (still on 0004). Need to look up "Printomatic". All in all a valuable response.

Kept the same original settings, bumped the temperature to 235, and got a significantly stronger hunk of plastic. Thanks again.

I've printed two of these so far and I'm having a consistent problem. This clearly has nothing to do with the design as so many others have been successful, but my filament holders keep breaking as in the pic below. It seems to print fine, but then when any stress is put on it the arms split.

Is my temp too hot or too cold? or is this another problem altogether?

I would advise you to check your print settings. Since upgrading my TOM to a MK6+ and switching to black abs and using replicatorg 0025, I had to adjust printomatic settings to switch it to my .4 nozzle size, a layer height of .265 (almost as low as printomatic recommends I use, though higher resolution it may actually weaken my print), and I had to change the filament diamater to about 2.80 (measured from the filament directly with calipers, take at least two measurements per point on the filament as it may not actually be rount).

I had trouble with several layers in my print not adhering on the first try which I suspect was plastic resisting being pulled through the extruder. A temperature that is too cold will also give a lack of adhesion and too hot has caused oozing and collapsing on other prints of mine (among browning of natural abs). Black abs is recommended to need about a 5 degree celcius increase in general though batch to batch even two of the same color plastic can vary.

Your holder's sides look quite rough and uneven compared to mine. I presume part of that is the lighting itself on your holder. The rest makes me think it would be best to review results on the 20mm cube with no infill and the 20mm wall and 50mm tower to make sure plastic is flowing at the correct rate, layers are bonding, and steps are not being missed.

I would love a 116 mm height version for 5lb spools. Did try some openscad stuff, split in the middle and making it longer but that made replicatorg unhappy aka it did not want to generate gcode for that. Do not have or know how to use SolidWorks.

I'm sure since your post you must have found a solution but if not, you can use my version. Best regards.


BFB Plate for spool holder

I've had my eye on this since I first ordered my Makerbot! Fantasticly simple and so helpful!

Love it! Really great design that works perfectly.

Does it work better mounted on the side or top?

Each place works well. I typically mount it to the top since that's more convenient for me. You should use whatever works best in your situation.

Prints well, does exactly what it says on the tin, and very, very useful. I babysat the spool while it was printing but now that it is installed, the filament just feeds by itself.

Thank you!

One of my best prints! I really like it and do not have to watch the printer while printing. It just "does its job".


best print my bot has made so far!

I'm using it now! This solved a huge problem for me. Thanks!!!

This is awesome I really appreciate it. :-$

Wait, does MBI ship them like this by default now?

This looks exactly like the kind of system on those UP! things. Nice little spool attached on the side of the machine happily unspooling to the extruder.

This will make feeding makerbots more like loading cartrigdes than plopping feedstock next to it and feeding it like that. :-D

I like it. Nice simple and elegant design. Very cool.

How well do the new spools work? Does the filament unwind without slipping over the edge of the spool as it turns?

The spools are awesome. The filament stays on the spool pretty well and comes off easily as the extruder pulls it off. I'm designing some clip on pieces that will keep filament on the spool even during rough handling.

like it

reminds me of toilet paper holders i've seen somewhere.

they are more simplified. there is no square flange at the bottom.

and only one hole at the bottom.