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Working 5 speed transmission model for Toyota 22RE engine

by ericthepoolboy, published

Working 5 speed transmission model for Toyota 22RE engine by ericthepoolboy Mar 9, 2015

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Summary

This is the 5 speed transmission that comes bolted to the back of a 22RE. This is the 4WD version of the transmission so it has a mounting surface to bolt a transfer case to. The transfer case will be the next thing I will upload

Fully working. All 5 speeds plus reverse. It uses a good amount of 3mm rod and 623zz bearings. M2.5 x 5mm set screws and nuts were used due to the small size of some of the parts.

http://youtu.be/SB34I33Bqrg

Instructions

Update: 03/16/2015
Updated assembly drawings

Update: 03/15/2015
Shift linkage.stl file updated for more clearance. The old one will still work you just might have to modify it,

Update: 03/12/2015
Transmission housing cover 1 had a problem with the source file not laying flat. New file has been uploaded.
Thanks pointing this out RossRobotics

The assembly diagrams are not that great. This model is more complex than the engine and is pretty much one giant assembly so it's hard to convey that through multiple assembly diagrams. There are a bunch of photos showing the parts and the locations but assembling this will take a little bit of know how. You will have to figure out which holes to drill, ream, and tap. There's not too many of them. Any questions, just ask.

See excel spread sheet for parts list, descriptions, and notes about parts. Most parts will require a Brim to prevent curling.

There is a test jig to print out to see if your gears mesh properly before you put everything together. If you're finding that your gears are too tight you can file the teeth down or scale the gears down in the X and Y directions a small percentage. Do not scale the Z. You can also scale up if you're finding that they are too tight.
I made the fit on the gears pretty loose so you should be able to just print them and go but it depends on your printer.

There are also three holes on the side of Transmission housing 2. These can be tapped and you can insert a ball/spring/set screw into them as well as make a groove on the shift shaft to make a detent so that each shaft is held in the neutral position. It helps keep the transmission from going into random gears while shifting or locking up due to two gears being engaged at the same time.

You will need to reprint the new engine stand or modify your current start so the transmission can mate to the engine.

For the hardware i still recommend boltdepot.com but amazon has pretty decent prices for packs of 100 for socket products.

The 3mm rod that is made by Amico on Amazon works great. Fits the bearings perfectly and is cheaper than the tool steel I recommended previously. If you buy the 10 pack of 150mm x 3mm or 200mm x 3mm rods then you will have more than enough.

http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-200x3mm-Transmission-Airplane/dp/B00FHMAIHQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1425864242&sr=8-7&keywords=3mm+rod

If you find any issues with the files or assembly diagrams please let me know by commenting or private message.

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Are the assembly diagrams the 2 pictures you have posted? Thank You

Eric, have built Mitsubishi Boxer and the Toyota engine with gear boxes and diff etc. Would like to send Drop Box link with photos and info if you would send me your contact details. Many thanks
John Williams - Isle of Man _ U.K.

I just gotta say I am impressed! Cool build

I have problens in gears 1 the small top. I'm printed with PLA, infill 30%, 190°, bed 60°, Printer Graber (but closed). This config is correct?

Is there an adapter to bolt straight onto an electric motor? if not can you make one?

Nevermind i saw another users on with an adapter

Can you bolt this to your 22RE engine model?

Hello.

I've made one of this but the bars does not fit into the gears and some pieces does not fit with others.

what is the source of rotation?

Exelent job. Could you send me your design solidworks because I would like to make such a device.

So how does it actually work? Like is there a power source? Air input? Does something turn faster as the different shifts happen?

How do I design a 3-speed automatic transmission?

Hi;

I am Ozan from Turkey and studying mechanical engineering.I am taking a class about 3d printers and my prof. gave me a project.I found this project and liked it but there is a problem.

I need technical drawings of all parts.I can't open the parts in every drawing programs and can not converting the files for technical drawing.If anyone can help me I'll be very pleased.

I tried to scale up the "male" part of the input shaft in 3D Studio MAX but after exporting the 3D model to STL file, the STL file has errors. I think that some faces are flipped inside out. How can I fix the problem?

Which plastic putty can I use for PLA plastic?

Which lubricant is compatible with PLA plastic? Eric should have specified self-tapping screws instead of machine screws for joining plastic parts like the transmission housings together. How do I repair stripped screw threads in plastic?

I used the inserts that says "ericthepoolboy".
This you can see in my work: http://www.thingiverse.com/make:131014.
I got them here:

http://tienda.bricogeek.com/tornillos-y-tuercas/669-inserto-para-plastico-m3x4mm-20-unidades.html

Working 5 speed transmission model for Toyota 22RE engine

Silicon lube or I use Super Lube Synthetic Grease. Self tapping screws would have been better but they are only commonly available in a Philips head which i don't like the look of and they are more prone to splitting the printed part if the hole isn't big enough for the screw.
For a stripped hole, you can buy threaded inserts online and use a soldering iron to insert them. They are cheap, they just become tedious if you are installing a bunch of them. You could also re-tap the hole for for a 4-40 screw.

Should I use build on any of the housing units

Hi what software did you use to make the gears as I would like to model a gearbox but am having trouble working out gears?

Everything was done in solidworks

hello , did you know where i can find the solidwork's model 3 d ?

I have a few questions about the shift rod "detents"
-what is the easiest way to modify the shift rods to make it work
-I assume a flat spot of some kind needs to be put in exactly the right spot (neutral?)
-where can the balls and springs be sourced from, I"m having a hard time finding them

I sourced balls from amazon. They need to be about 2.5mm. Small enough to fit through a threaded 3mm hole. The springs i got from inside a toggle switch. I marked the shift rod by assembling the whole transmission and using a small drill bit to put a small mark on each shift rail while it was in neutral, 1st, 2nd etc. I then used a round file to make the detent. You can also get small m3 ball detents off of ebay. I think the assembly diagrams I made may have the rough dimension of the shift detent location but I may be mistaken.

Turns out that a 689Z bearing (9x17x5) broken apart yields the perfect size balls. Still brainstorming what I can destroy to get a tiny spring.........

Cigarette Lighters also have really nice springs

A lock cylinder has the smallest springs I ever saw....

Car door lock, ignition cylinder

House door lock, deadbolt, etc.....

how long did this take you and what would you sell them for. this is beyond incredible.

Probably about 72hrs of print time and a couple hours to assemble. If I have to ball park how much I would sell one for it would be about $400-500.

Needs a clutch.

It doesn't "need" a clutch. But yes it doesn't need one for accuracy. I welcome you to figure out how to 3D print a working clutch.

holly crap dude that's awesome...great work!

I'm currently printing this for a client and I have to say, this is one of the best examples of a real-world model that's been adjusted to print easily. Excellent work. It looks absolutely fantastic!

... But like where's the clutch?

Hello,
I want to ask if the upper rod from the inputshaft goes through the whole transmission?
In one of the diagramms it looks like it does, but this way it would not work.

The input shaft only goes into the first gear half way, the output shaft rides in the bearing in the other half. The input/output shafts should not be touching at all inside the first gear.

Hi, could you send me the diagrams, i wanna know the measurements to do a scale, I would appreciate

Don't have any diagrams with measurements. Most slicers will tell you the over all dimensions though.

Comments deleted.

I have a modified stand. Look at my other things

Comments deleted.

I am looking at buying the hardware and since I am not an expert in hardware, I am confused.
Does any have the products # for www.boltdepot.com or the item # for http://www.mrmetric.com/?

No part numbers but everything is organize by screw type, size, and length.

First off I'd like to say Awesome design! I've had all the parts printed for a few weeks now but only received the last of the hardware today. I was just wondering is there any reason why the gear 1 top has both a bearing and set screws? seems kind of out of place to me.

Never mind. Just realised it's on 2 separate shafts. My bad.

can i scale this up to make it larger? im asking because it says dont scale z but can i scale it as a whole?

Yes, you can scale it up. You'll have to source out bearings and rots to fit to your scale though.

Hi Eric.
First, many thanks for sharing this project. I realized this transmission and I haven't got any problem for the assembly. All is perfect - thank !!!!!
I would like to add the motor 12V 120 RPM to have a real functional system.
Do you have a adaptor piece ( inside the bell housing ) to integrate this motor and share it ?
thank !

No, I do not. I only have the housing to attach to the motor. If you look under the makes of the transmission you can see what another user did to power just the transmission.

Ok Eric, I will contact the user or design one.
Thank

do you have experience designing gears? i'm curious too know how you went about designing this completely awesome transmission!!!

hey can you upload that output disk you have in the video?

Wow, I was just trying to print something I designed with almost the exact same concept as this, but with less decoration, for a physics project. It's neat to see other people got the same idea and found a way to make it work.

And I could be assembled with an electric motor.
You can see how it works in:

https://youtu.be/KApvwnkKJgs

Regards

That's awesome, Great work.

Hey great design just beginning to print this out. I just wanted to know could you tell me which parts were printed inn what colour. to save you typing out all the names you can name out the parts by what row their in on the excel spreadsheet

Hi!!

Where i can find the "bearing-less" version???

Thanks.

May 8, 2015 - Modified May 8, 2015

I realize you said you didn't want to release the solidworks model, but could you possibly release an assembly version with STL's or step if you're so inclined. Possibly including hardware?

In this file you have mounting speeds in STL format:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9lhaopk788xce5a/Gears.stl?dl=0

Regards

Check out the H pattern guide that Krisstto designed, he couldn't post it so i put it up for him.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:807505

Shifter H box for Toyota 22re transmission

Hello,
I just finished my build of your engine/transmission design. I'm having trouble getting the valves to function due to friction. I'd like to reduce cam lift and possible incorperate some roller followers to help, I have no way to edit .stl files, is there any chance you could upload youre cad files, I'm using Solidworks 2015. The only other question is Im not getting power to the last gear box section so I don't know if I have a gear in the wrong location. There is a gear that is impossible to see and I don't know what drives the box section. Looking forward to your transfer case....Many thanks for your hard work!!!!

Regards,
Cris

I have put some pictures to see if they can help you.

http://www.thingiverse.com/make:131014

Regards

Working 5 speed transmission model for Toyota 22RE engine
Comments deleted.

What is the actual scale of this beast?

any tips on gluing the gears together. I have tried using the rod as a guide to keep them inline, but get glue on the rod. how did you do yours. any nice jog on the design. everything so far is working extremely well. everything printed in PLA on a Makerbot rep2. will post pictures when its done. thanks in advance for any help on glue

Use just a tiny bit of super glue. Four little tiny drops on the piece then glue together. Use pliers to twist the rod out of the part when the glue dries.

just a side note, I also used vasaline on the shaft so the glue would not stick to the shaft when gluing. worked out perfectly. the gears now are aligned properly and run alot smoother. thanks again. hopefully next week or so ill have it working and post it

thanks got it to work

Hi.

I'm printing this gearbox and now I'm looking for the hardware but I have some questions about the magnets.

Fisrt, those magnets the kinf of magnets that attract the metal things? I don't know if I have a traslation issue.

Second, where do I have to set the magnets into the gearbox? I see that are 24 magnets.

Thanks a lot.

Magnets are for the removable doors/panels and the bell housing/engine. Four go on the door and the other four go to the corresponding hole in the transmission housing.

Ok. Thanks a lot.

Where were you able to source the M2.5-5mm set screws?

Amazon.com
BoltDepot.com
mrmetric.com

Apr 9, 2015 - Modified Apr 9, 2015
mkelly - in reply to ericthepoolboy

Thanks. Amazon only had one option and was 1month ship time. I'll see if the other two are better

Followup, 6mm should work for length right?

Apr 9, 2015 - Modified Apr 9, 2015
ericthepoolboy - in reply to mkelly

6mm should work fine, you could always grind them down a little bit too. Even add a point to hold to the shaft better.

Also, amazon's prices fluctuate so much for these that its not worth buying from them half the time. MrMetric has them for less than 5 cents a piece plus flat rate shipping or free if you order over $50

Apr 9, 2015 - Modified Apr 9, 2015
mkelly - in reply to ericthepoolboy

Thanks again. I ended up finding 5mm from bolt depot so I went through them instead of MrMetric.

Only part I wasn't able to find state side was the 4mmx2mm magnets. Looks like they'll take a month on a slow boat from china via amazon.Unless you happen to know of a better suggestion.

Thanks for the great designs btw. My engineer coworkers are crazy excited to see it finished.

My magnets came from china. You can always use a smaller magnet that's a standard size. Like 5/32 x 1/16.

hi i am a mechanic that builds engines but i am also very interested in automated manufacturing like 3D printing. before i print all this out and put it together i was curious what kind of output there is on the drive shaft end of the transmission. is there any way a shaft could be inserted into it to maybe drive a rear differential and actually make a model working drive train out of the transmission and engine you have designed?

It has a small female hex socket for the output shaft but it would be easy enough to design and print something that would do what you want. The female hex socket is there so that the transfercase can be bolted to the back when I'm done with it.

This is just AMAZING! I would love to make one after i get my current projects caught up. What was the print time on this?

Hello, Eric.

I'll start off by congratulating you on such a wonderful job. It is of great quality and highly detailed. Would it be too much to ask for the original files? I want to to add two more sets of gears to make it a seven speed. I also wanted the original so that I may make a more detailed exploded view of each step with a BOM list with each part having its own bubble with a corresponding number on the BOM. Thanks in advance! I have experience in SW, Autocad, Inventor, and ProE.

Sorry, as of now, I'm keeping all the SolidWorks files private. More detailed instructions will be made in the future.

Okay, no problem. Thanks for the reply. :)

This is amazing!

I looked and didn't see an answer, so I'm sorry if this is redundant, but do you know how much PLA this took? And how long?

Mar 31, 2015 - Modified Mar 31, 2015
nel68 - in reply to egamel

Hi, personally I printed during one week, but with a slow speed (reducing to 75%) cause I print with a Prusa and whit no support, no raft or brim. This week I also print other parts for my work... The total weight is 370 gr (0.816 lbs) on my weighing scale, approximately 2/3 grey for outdoors and 1/3 in red for the Interior for the mechanical workings. I've made no changes of scale and I used Cura. 3mm bars can be longer than the indicated sizes that are a little fair. Good luck, it's so amazing.
You can look my printing in "MADE" item, photo with motor

That is Amazing !!! I myself is one of this motors/tranny on my old celica!

Hi, I have made your Toyota motor R22 (so funny) and actually i finish this gear box. Congralutaion for your EPIC job, really.
I just think it's difficult to find where go exatly each rod, cause each have on different size and it's not writting in your plan, this for it's more easy for other beginner in a futur...
I 'm interresting to know what is your job in your life (maybe enginer? or designer? or...?) It's an wonderful job and i'm really enjoying to make this one.
Please don't stop, WE wan't other personnal production... now your an STAR onTHINGIVERSE and anymore ;-) :-)
NEL68

Amazing! Now you just need the clutch and you're basically done with the whole powertrain!

Agreed. This has so much potential (see what I did there) but needs a clutch to be used in a practical way like a model running car.

I'm blown away by the work you must have put into this. Awesome work.

Comments deleted.

Incredible work. Great job and thank you for sharing :-)

Comments deleted.

What resolution, infill, # of shells, and material did you use?

look at the parts list and instructions. It has notes for all the different pieces.

Mar 27, 2015 - Modified Mar 27, 2015
Aceric - in reply to ericthepoolboy

The only thing in your list that would answer my question was the resolution, which is stated the same on almost every piece anyways, few others have other comments, nothing about Infill and shells or what material you found best.

What I'm actually curious about is the material. I have a replicator 2x and can only print abs as of now. If you printed this in ABS kudos to you, and I will try myself. If you printed in PLA, I think I will wait until I have upgraded my printer to be PLA capable as well.

EDIT: As well as the material for your engine. I assume what ever material you used for the transmission, was the same used on the engine.

And for the gears? I can not print the Gear 1 and 3 Counter Shaft. I'm using PLA, but the lower part at the top is not working.

If this helps. I have a R2X and i print plenty in PLA but when i use PLA i do 192c and 37c and a 58mm cooling fan lightly blowing on the print , about 1 foot away from the print. Blue tape and door open .On larger prints i take the lid off also. The only reason i did ABS is an over stock of filament ,5 rolls of orange and to many rolls of other ABS. So i printed the gears solid but even then i used some cooling so the bottom did not swell. But printing solid was really over kill . The model is perfect so , ABS or PLA will print nicely .

Again Eric , Thank You

Everything was PLA, One use printed everything in ABS and it came out fine. I believe he has a MakerBot. The gears and the shift linkage are the only things that really should be printed in high resolution, higher infill, and more perimeters And they should be printed in PLA if you plan on running the thing constantly as a display. And if your printer can print ABS, its should be able to print PLA just fine. Maybe just add a cooling fan. My setting for everything except the gears was 3 perimeters, 3 bottom layers, 4 top layers, 30% infill, 60m/s speed, and .2mm layer height. But it all depends on your printer, how long you're willing to wait for your part to print, and the quality you desire. Here is a link to the transmission made with ABS.

http://www.thingiverse.com/make:126875

Working 5 speed transmission model for Toyota 22RE engine
by ALM7377

Yeah, I can't just print PLA with the replicator 2x, I have to make some modifications to have active cooling. That's what I was referring to when I said I'd have to wait till I upgrade the printer if I do decide to use PLA. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:221306 is the mod I'm looking at.

Not sure if the link you provided is printed with ABS, there is nothing stating it. I will attempt this in ABS after I complete my current project.

All in all though this is an awesome print, and looking forward to doing it.

Print PLA with Makerbot Replicator 2x Upgrade

I know he printed the engine in ABS from talking to him personally. I can only assume that the transmssion is also. I have active cooling on my printers but honestly I just use a house fan blowing directly on the entire part. Glass bed with hair spray. Bed at 70 C and extruder temp 5 degrees higher that normal.

I will definitely try just using a fan, now I just gotta get the PLA.

Awesome - nice work

Are the bearings supposed to fit in to the holes in housing 2? They don't seem to have a place to live otherwise and it pushes the bearing retainer and 5th gear shift collar out.

Any chance of getting an assembly drawing for the rear housing (housing 3) and the bell?

The bearing retainer for housing 2 should have a small lip on it to keep the bearing sandwiched between the housing and the retainer. Did you ream out the entire hole?

Make a knob for that sucka!

Hi Ericthepoolboy, congratulations, you're an amazing guy. It's amazing this very thorough work... and so funny. OK I am ready to make the gearbox at speed because I finish your engine two weeks ago. Please, do not stop your creation, I think they are very important, I have expilquer the operation of the engine to my children and friends. It is very educational and informative and highlights the work of 3d printers. It changes the people making weapons... Respect to you. I'm admirative of your job (maybe jalouse, lol)

Mar 24, 2015 - Modified Mar 24, 2015

Hello Eric,
Congratulations on another successful design!
Regarding respecting this design's CC non-commercial license- A friend without a 3D printer has inquired about me printing one for him.
Would you consider him paying me for time and materials to print one a violation? This is more than a "favor to friend" type of print.
What if he pays to print one for him?
What if he buys a printer from me to print it? I'd be happy to sell him one, making about as much money.
I'd hope that the primary uses that would offend you would be someone production printing and selling copies, or using it as an advertisement (many websites ARE getting traffic off it..)
Hopefully this comes across as genuinely trying to understand and respect your wishes about the use of your design that you've put tremendous effort into. Thanks again!

That's perfectly fine. The only reason I have the non-commercial in there is because I don't want people uploading my files to shapeways to make money or cranking out kits and selling them.

wow this is awesome, I think eventually we'll have a fully working car at this rate

Comments deleted.

Eric, did you get my message?

Yeah, I replied with an email.

I didn't get it for some reason. Can you send it again, I will keep an eye out in my spam folder..

Comments deleted.

The transmissions is connected to the engine using the input shaft on the transmission and the pressure plate thats mounted on the flywheel.

Sincere compliments. I was studying how to proceed to create this component in while I'm making the engine. But I do not understand how to connect the engine to the gearbox. And 'possible to have a picture or a diagram like the other proposed?
Really congratulations again, and I can not wait to find out what you're realizzand yet.
Forgive my English.

Wow this is amazing, I can't wait to print it. How did you design this? What software did you use? I am very interested. Way to go totally great!

Sorry I deleted my comment about the shift collar 5th gear not printing right. Tried the part on another printer and it printed fine.

Did you print in ABS or PLA?

Comments deleted.

Next step: Working limited slip differential ;)

No, needs to be a torque biasing differential, works better than the clutch plates of a limited slip when printed.

Mar 12, 2015 - Modified Mar 12, 2015

I have an issue with Transmission_Housing_1Cover-_Scaled, it's about half a mm off the 0 Z axis. I use Makerware for my builds and when use the "Lay Flat" command it does not lay on the build plate. I can do move it manually, but someone may have problems printing as it would be off the build plate. It seems that something is invisible underneath it since Makerware thinks it's on the build plate already.

Not sure why "Cover" is bolded, it's an issue with Markdown editing..

UPDATE: I found the cause of this issue. You can see in the linked pic that there is a piece that interferes with the model. I used Netfabb to cut off the 'spike'.
http://s19.postimg.org/f4u94ebb7/issue.jpg

Fixed the source file. Thanks for bringing that to my attention.

Hey Eric, where did you pick up your 3mm rod at and did you have to sand it down to allow the bearings to fit? Thanks in advance.

Amazon. They have several different sizes that come in packs of ten. And their stainless for less than $10. I bought the pack of 10 200mm rods and used half. They are slightly under 3mm so the bearings from china fit perfectly without sanding.

If anyone's starting this and the engine, one pack of ten should be enough for both, as the engine only uses 3 rods.

Are you going to make a starter motor drive for this? I notice that you also seem to have solved the torque issue which was a problem with just the engine, and it spins a bit faster, did you add a few more cells to the compressor motor?

I changed out the motor to a 12V 120RPM motor so that I could power the transmission without a problem. The original 3v motor will still work with the transmission attached, it's just slower. I wanted the electric motor and batteries to be self contained hence the smaller motor. I will upload the modified compressor housing that fits the 12V motor but the battery location will be left to the user. As for a starter motor, that was the original plan to drive the engine but after careful thought I decided against it due to the high speed required from the motor which would probably lead to premature wear of the drive gear.

http://www.amazon.com/HOSSEN%C2%AE-120RPM-Powerful-Torque-Replacement/dp/B00B1KZ8UU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425929082&sr=8-1&keywords=12v+120rpm

Thanks Eric. Looking fwd to getting the modified housing.. I have all other hardware in route. Cant wait to get started building!

Here's the modified compressor housing.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:721705

A/C Compressor Housing for geared motor. 22RE Engine

Freeking awesome! Thanks eric! Downloading now...

Amazing! Great job!

Next "Featured Thing" lol Awesome work!!!!! We gonna get the full truck?

Absolute great work . Bearings and rod stock ordered. Printing starts in 3hrs :)

Thank You Eric

Hey this is really neat! If you join the Thingiverse Engineering group and submit this project I will feature it in the group!
http://www.thingiverse.com/groups/engineering

Mar 9, 2015 - Modified Mar 9, 2015

Did the 22re's come mated with an r150 or was it something else like a w56? Either way great job and keep up the awesome work!

Ben_R - in reply to neua

didnt the celica have the w58 5 speed?

Yes, the W56 and W58 are pretty much the same thing inside and almost all parts are interchangeable except for the output shaft and rear housing. When I get some more free time I will model the rear housing for those that just want a 2wd transmission.

The 22RE engines had W series transmissions behind them. Some had G series in the later years. The turbo'ed 22RET had the R151F. The R150F came behind the 3.0 5VZ

Mar 9, 2015 - Modified Mar 9, 2015
neua - in reply to ericthepoolboy

Gotcha yeah my 89' has a w56-b I believe and my 00' 4runner (5vzfe, 3.4l) has the R150f behind it. Wasn't sure if they ever did put that trans behind the 22r. Guess not lol.

Gotcha yeah my 89' has a w56-b I believe and my 00' 4runner (5vzfe, 3.4l) has the R150f behind it. Wasn't sure if they ever did put that trans behind the 22r.

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