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Mostly Printed CNC / MultiTool -Updated 5/25/16-

by Allted, published

Mostly Printed CNC / MultiTool -Updated 5/25/16- by Allted Mar 15, 2015

Thing Info

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Summary

Changelog
5/25/16 - New Center and Z Axis assemblies, More rigid!, easier to square, universal tool mount.
4/24/16 - New Corner assembly, easier to square, shorter print time, more rigid.

Mostly Printed CNC / MultiTool
These parts are for 23.5mm OD conduit.

WE WON! Grand Prize winner!. Thank You all for the votes and cooperation.

Nice write up, explains this in more detail Here

I set out to build a minimal cost CNC Machine with the goal of some basic aluminum capabilities and easily multi function.

More info
http://www.vicious1.com/

Hardware and printed parts available here.
http://www.vicious1.com/shop/

Printing info
http://www.vicious1.com/blog/parts/

The only special tools needed are a hacksaw, and a drill to drill 4 holes.

This can be easily expanded to almost any length, width, and depth depending on rigidity required. Shorter lengths = more rigid. This is built using hardware store 3/4" (23.5mm OD) emt conduit. international version using 25mm OD is linked below.

Most woods and plastics should be no problem. I milled Aluminum with a footprint of 23.5in x 32in x 4in. Aluminum works well https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GIYMuYgX0rY

You can switch the spindle out with a drag knife, laser, Extruder, ect, making it a great prototyping multitool. By adding length and depth It could easily be used to shape large easily milled things like wood, foam, or plastics. Keep it small for aluminum.

Add Ons

International Edition -25mm conduit-
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:790533

Solder-less Stepper Mount (recommended if you aren't using the wiring harness)
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:823301

End Stop Mount
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1023985

MK8 MK9 extruder mount 3D printer
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:868983

Dewalt DW660 Mount
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:944952
http://amzn.to/1D7xByM

https://youtu.be/WM2AMtxMhMk

Nema 23 mount
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:783589

Blank Tool Mounts

Print Settings

Rafts: Doesn't Matter

Supports: No

Infill: See http://www.vicious1.com/blog/parts/

Instructions

Wood Demo
https://youtu.be/j_O9fbzjSn8

3D Printing
https://youtu.be/amo8czFC75Y

Dual head
https://youtu.be/TZso__iMGu8

4 Head Madness! Just to show the platforms capabilities.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DeVeyUas5vU

X and Y axis take up about 265mm, so whatever cut area you want your outside dimensions should be that plus 265mm.

Electronics

I am using marlin / Ramps 1.4, there are a lot of options if you don't like this combo, grbl, tiny g, ect.

The X and Y steppers are wired in parallel, just like the z axis is on a 3d printer. Or in series.

http://www.vicious1.com/ramps-wiring/

Pre-configured firmware here- http://www.vicious1.com/marlin-firmware/

Bill Of Materials

Current List - http://www.vicious1.com/blog/parts/

Software

3d CAM

http://www.estlcam.com/
Looks like we have a winner! Free full featured, consider buying it for $50. Clean and simple.
http://www.vicious1.com/estlcam-basics/

Controller
http://www.repetier.com/
Right now I use Repetier-Host
http://www.vicious1.com/repetier-host/

Fusion 360 for the intermediate users with some experience.

I am very open to suggestions for others.

Extras

http://stores.ebay.com/carbideplus/ - drillman1's shop is the only place to get your endmills and things. Great prices, fast, easy.

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Are the assembly instructions available for the 5-25-2016 update? What router does the update support and will the Dewalt DW660 mount work with the new update?

All tool mounts will need to be updated. The 660 mount has already been added to thingiverse, and is linked in the description, http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:944952

Mostly Printed CNC -Add On- Dewalt DW660 Mount - updated-
by Allted

Super! Thank you. Does the use of the 660 mount eliminate the need for the C-Z-Lower and C-Z-Motor parts?

Nope that is the Zaxis parts. I should have some assembly instructions up today or tomorrow I hope maybe it will make more sense then.

http://www.vicious1.com/assembly/
Most have already been updated should finish it off before anyone finishes printing the parts, although assembly is very similar to the last parts.

I just got the bearing and bits for the last variant, but have not printed the middle bits yet (was to start today).... Before printing one or the other, will these updated parts use the same or less parts? Can I print this instead and be ok with what I got....

Hi, first i must say that you did amazing job! Can i use it to cnc with acrylic perspex sheets?

Thanks! You sure can, try a few different kind of bits I think a down cut flute would be best on thin sheet material but there are also good plastic bits available.

hi, i was trying to look for instructions related to milling process and wiring diagrams for the same but i wasn't able to find anything like that on your website.... Can you please guide me regarding this matter?

No extra wiring is needed. I just plug mine into a speed controller and go.

http://www.vicious1.com/estlcam-basics/
http://www.vicious1.com/speed-control/

where to connect the spindle terminals to the ramps?

Most of us don't we just manually turn it on and off.

Can i use DC PWM speed controller to control the 300 watt spindle? link to the speed controller is given in the link below
http://goo.gl/wpKSKs

Yes, you can, but it does add more complexity to your setup. If you're unsure of the wiring it really is easier to just go with a DW660 and speed controller or DWP611 with built in speed controller - you probably don't want to jump right into spindle control right off the bat if you have no experience with it. Take it one step at a time, build it, learn the machine, learn the software, learn things using an easy tool like the DW660 - then go for a DC spindle down the road if you want.

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ok thanks :)

Is here someone that have a 3d file how the printer is assembled? Like the first picture on this site!
I like to remix the machine.. whould me more than nice

If you are asking for the CAD files I have not released them, other than the tool mounts.

May 8, 2016 - Modified May 8, 2016
nonkonform - in reply to Allted

Ok,.. I mean the cad/3ds/c4d what ever file format to make one more stage to illustrate what I like to do .. I think when I make a picture its easyer to understand... I plan one more stage for the z axis to make it more stable and a heat champer around...

and thanks for responding

MPCNC Openscad assembly and parametric control
by jegb70

I am using a Beaglebone Black with a CRAMPS cape and as part of my MPCNC build I have made a 3D printable case for the BBB/CRAMPS combo. It's on Thingiverse here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1532808. It's kinda still in the works but it's at a usable stage. Additions I am thinking of adding are standoffs for the space between the BBB and the CRAMPS boards and mounting flanges. I have also posted the freecad files for easy modding. Please let me know what you think.

Beaglebone Black with CRAMPS cape case

Nice Thing,

I also want to build one myself.

I live in germany and don't have accress to cheap 23,5 or 25mm metall tubing. I had found some 25mm tubing for 20-22 € for 2 meter. That is to expensive. Same material (steel) with 26,9 mm cost only 4,40€ for 2 meters.

So I guess I must change the plans to match the tubing or anybody give me a hint for cheaper tubing.

Is it possible to "simply" scale the parts for 26,9 tubing?

Wieviel kostet denn der Zeug in Deutschland?

May 2, 2016 - Modified May 2, 2016
mformaker - in reply to aarondiab

Hi aarondiab,

What do you mean with "der Zeug" the mpcnc or the tubing?
I guess u mean mpcnc:
arduino + ramps = 30 €
5 nema 17 = 50 €
Screws nuts about = 50€
bearing 608 ZZ = 12 €
If "der Zeug" = tubing -> according to link 18€
printed parts = 30€

I meant the tubing.

danke mann,

ich habe TAGE lang gesucht und nur gnadenlos überteuertes zeug gefunden.

Come check out the forums I think there was some German machines in there.

Scaling that much is probably not a good idea. Have you looked into closet rod, or shower rod, stainless steel tubing, ect?

Hi Allred,

I searched DAYS for the best option. (For tubing and to keep it low price)
I considered:

  • alu
  • stainless steel
  • steel

Alu is quiet cheap 6m ~ 12 € 25x2mm, but I expect it not to be rigid enough.
Stainless steel is ridicleous expensive ~ 6m = 60-80€ 25x2 this is not really nice.

But if we change the measurement of the tubing there are really apealling prices with good material AND easy availeable.
For example 21,3 (OD)x3mm ~ 9€ for 6m (Steel tubing) and 26,9(OD)x2mm ~ 11€ for 6m.

Apr 29, 2016 - Modified Apr 29, 2016

Just a heads up for everyone, not sure if this is posted in the instructions anywhere BUT...

When printing the "Middle Z Rigid" part I ran into problems twice and wasted a bunch of hours and filament.

First print: I ran into problems when not using support structures.

Second print: I also ran into problems when using support structures (I'm using Makerbot Replicator 2 and Makerware)

But I noticed on the second print the problems occurred when the printer added supports to the hollow parts of the print (such as the screw holes)

The solution that worked for me was the following:

Use Cura software: https://ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software

Make sure you use the correct machine settings / infill settings / speed settings etc

And use these settings also

Support type: Touching buildplate

Platform adhesion type: Raft

Also you may want to set the shell thickness to .6 mm since Cura doesn't have a "number of shells" setting. This will ensure that the 2 shells add up to the recommended 1.2 mm

Then save the gcode

If you are using a makerbot you cannot use this gcode as is so it requires further modification

You will need to open Replicator G software: http://replicat.org/download

Open the gcode file that you just saved, then save as .x3g

Yup, sorry for not putting it in writing. That is the only part that needs support.

This is soon to be replaced by the new center and Z axis assembly.

Printing like crazy now .... does that mean the whole center and Z assy will be updated and the parts will be changed? If so, when can we expect them?
Thanks for the great work, you're really an open mind. I wish I'm too :-))

Ready when they are worth making. I had what I thought was a beter upgrade and it turns out it wasn't any better so now I have another one getting tested now. You can follow along with the progress here. http://www.vicious1.com/forum/topic/updated-center-parts/

My machine needs 3 new top corner pieces mine all have cracked. The file has been pulled. Is there a way you could upload these somewhere else or put them on here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:902483 ? The pieces I need are in the picture of the assembled build.

-OLD- Mostly Printed CNC -Add On- LEG
by Allted

I put both of the old ones up there and will take them down in a few days to avoid confusion.

That piece does very little if you have cracked 3 of them you are tightening it way too tight. Mine are snug but if I need to I can still rotate the conduit by hand without loosening them.

could i build the machine with 25mm tubes? because in europe we do not hace 3/4 inch tubes. and if it is posiblle, i have to print the same stl?
Thank you

International Edition -25mm conduit-
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:790533

Mostly Printed CNC -International Edition- Parts -Updated 5/25/16-
by Allted

Has anyone got a build parts source list for the UK ?

And last question for the day. I am ready to try some milling. I have the dewalt, and end mills, and printing the quick change adapter to switch between tools. I got some MOLEX connectors to make it easier to disconnect the extruder, I'm guessing that ya'll use some sort of quick disconnects for the wires? Cat5 connectors were way to expensive. My question is, what are ya'll using for quick tool changes?

CAT 5 will not work for power.

How do you use PETG without a heated bed? And will the mk 8 extruder go up to 250 or do I need an all metal hotend.

I think it is rated a bit higher than that. I have a roll to try but I am running some test parts first.

You can easily add a heated bed, I have them. Plug and play.

I didn't see them in the parts store on the page?

Still working on a finding a decent supplier.

They are readily available elsewhere though. I have a link for a set on the 3d printer project page.

Sohas anyone added a couple heat beds to this yet? I'm thinking of mulling my 3d printer bed to drop in like 4 heat beds for a 20"x20"heated build area. Just not sure how I would run it, probably externally controlled of course. Any thoughts?

This has come up a few times in the forums.

Hello again. My PLA(ordered it before I got the advice on PETG) arrived and I'm starting to look at my options for spindles as the printer does it's job.

It occured to me to ask, does the MPCNC code and hardware support spindle PWM?

Sorry for the trouble.

You should tag this, and the international version with the MPCNC tag. Searching for MPCNC doesn't find this item (but it finds the hundreds of accessories).

Thats funny, I didn't even realize. The MPCNC name didn't stick for almost 5-6 months I think, forgot to add it I was updating things a few days ago an swore I checked that, scatter brained. Thanks good catch.

Sorry I don't own one, so I can't take measurements and test it. sorry.

Hello ! congratulations for your project.
I 've also finished the assembly of the structure .
I do not understand how do I connect the motors to the RAMPS board .
I have only one connector for x-axis and y but I have two motors to be connected . how can I do ?

thank you !

You wire them in parallel with one pair reversed. Usually the stepper wires need to be cut and extended anyway so wiring it together makes it easy. http://www.vicious1.com/wiring-the-steppers/

Or I have custom wiring harnesses.

you are number 1 !!!

This thing is pretty boss. I think I am going to build one but I am going to use a Beaglebone Black and a CRAMPS board with Machinekit (Linuxcnc fork) Like I have on my 3d printer.

Thanks

I looked into it that last night, looks cool. If you get this going will you post a how to on the forums or somewhere? I think a lot of people will have an interest in it.

Will do. I have machinekit running on my delta printer with a BBB and CRAMPS board so I think it won't be that difficult but I need to save up for a CRAMPS board and another BBB. If I get it all configured I will post a sd card image with machinekit configured.

Awesome!

UPDATE: I have almost everything printed and a friend is going to trade me a BBB for milling work when I get it up. I also just ordered the CRAMPS board so it is all coming together. I will post once I get it set up and running.

Hello! I've been thinking of taking on this project for some time now as an upgrade to my Makesmith CNC. The one thing I wanted to ask about was how hard it would be to itegrate one of my favorite features of the Makemsith: The use of rotary encoders so that the machine was able of self-correcting if it ever goes out of step during a cut.

Do you think it would be hard for me to implement something like that? Worthwhile?

Rotary encoders are ideal, self correcting is awesome. Downside is they are usually really expensive. There is a user that used the MPCNC and made his own arduino based rotary encoders. There is a video on you tube.

They're expensive? Odd, the Makesmith was, like super-budget oriented... Open source too. The idea was to use micro servo's instead of stepper motors. Hmm, well I think I'll take a shot at it eventually. I hate not having the things on my delta printer. I'll make the base model and then try to contact the guy you mentioned,

Thanks for the assistance!

Huge power difference between the micro servos and the Nema 17 steppers.

Apr 7, 2016 - Modified Apr 7, 2016
GeoDude - in reply to Allted

Oh yeah! Stuff took forever on that thing. Looking forward to something with a bit more oomph. Only have PETG arm the moment so I'll have to wait to get some PLA, but then I'll start cranking the parts out

PETG wouldn't be a bad choice for a lot of these parts if you have the time to print it. I had varying success with layer adhesion on some of the tool holder parts and ended up redoing a few pieces in PETG.

There isn't an issue with a different rates of shrinkage between PETG and PLA?

Shrinkage isn't really an issue for either, and they are basically interchangeable in that regard. Everything I have printed with both has been dimensionally the same.

Apr 9, 2016 - Modified Apr 9, 2016
3dEz - in reply to GeoDude

My MPCNC is 90% PETG, only because I ran out of black PETG and had to print corner blocks in black ABS. I had no problems with shrinkage.

Apr 3, 2016 - Modified Apr 3, 2016

I made the decision to build this. I have started printing parts. I have 2 additional questions. 1) would black iron pipe work better than conduit since it is much stronger? 2) Are there any parts that could really benefit from being made in aluminum instead of printed? I have a casting setup at home. Once I have everything built and working, I am going to try my hand at lost PLA Casting. I am not sure if this project would have much benefit from aluminum or not.

1) If it is more rigid along it's length, maybe. It is much heavier and the surface finish is questionable. Careful with the work stronger, it doesn't mean much. Ideal is rigid along it length, minimal sag. Light, able to handle high point load on it's surface. Nice surface finish.

2) Right now just the roller motor mounts. Unless you want to get crazy, all the parts would be awesome castings.

That makes sense. Yep. strength is vague. I believe that it is more ridged than conduit but I could be wrong. It would be much heavier and I can see your point there. Also, I am not sure about the surface. Black iron pipe is not sand cast so it probably has a good surface. I could see corrosion screwing that up though where conduit is going to be more corrosion resistant.

I will play around with Lost PLA casting after I get this built and working. Might be awhile though.

So, I just started printing everything... I just wanted to double check something: I'm having a very hard time getting the corner block over the conduit I got from Home Depot. I'm not sure if it's supposed to be as tight as it is. I can't get the conduit through the piece (no bolts) without having to pry it open pretty significantly with a flat screwdriver. I took some micrometer readings:

pipe OD: .925" / 23.50mm
http://i.imgur.com/UMpv0JN.jpg

printed piece hole diameter: .90" / 22.86mm
http://i.imgur.com/BiX9mXJ.jpg

once it's in, the part that's supposed to be clamped down is spread open pretty far (i know there is supposed to be a gap after bolting down):
http://i.imgur.com/gBgfhSn.jpg

the .stl looks like it's supposed to be .929" diameter. Is my printer printing the piece too small? I'm slicing in Cura, if that matters. I don't forsee this really being an issue if the piece doesn't crack, I just wanted to see if others were having a similar experience. Thanks!

Print a calibration cube and do an extrusion test. Those numbers are close but a little off. Hopefully just over extrusion.

Thanks for the help. Calibration cubes were off, I was using Cura to slice, now i'm using slic3r and it's a world of difference and everything is printing accurately. All my parts are printed and additional materials have arrived. So I start assembly tonight!

I'm going to build the recommended size to start, but i'm going to try to build a 4'x8' version shortly after testing (to fit my 4x8 workbench). Have you or anybody built middle supports for the conduit? I've looked around but haven't seen any.

This comment has been deleted.
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still, private files I can't see them

Mar 29, 2016 - Modified Mar 29, 2016
3dEz - in reply to rissoual

Love the visual guide to the problem.. two pictures are worth 2 thousand words ;)
Alted has instructions on how to adjust the parallelism as part of the build manual. This is common problem and frankly drove me a bit crazy at the beginning. There are some tools here in Thingiverse to help (I haven't tried) but if you backtrack your built just a bit it is very fixable. Start by unscrewing your legs and loosening up all of your corner blocks. The center hub should drive everything square to a reasonable state, but before you start tightening screws check 1) your square dimensions 2) than your diagonals 3) go back to 1, repeat. The diagonals being the same (if your square dimensions are) will guarantee the parallelism. Hope this helps a bit. You seem to have a huge difference, I was going crazy with just a few mm diff. ;)

Allted - in reply to 3dEz

You can also back out the 4 3" screws in the center assembly, and put them back while it is still on the rails.

This comment has been deleted.

Anyone better than I am at CAD capable of making a mount for the bondtech extruder? http://www.bondtech.se/stl-files/

I am thinking about building this but I am concerned about its aluminum capabilities. I have read that aluminum is really its upper limit. I would be interested in this primarily for aluminum with other materials being secondary. Most of the aluminum that I would consider would be sheet and plate so not really thick (probably no more than 1/4".

Is it reasonable to do a lot of aluminum sheet and plate with this? Alternatively, is aluminum more of a proof of concept where it is technically possible but very challenging to set up and really strains it?

What limits the use of aluminum is mainly the spindle HP and less so the motor torque. I would suggest using the NEMA 23s to negate that issue. Then you will need to find a more powerful spindle. I would suggest going for a full spindle assembly rather than running a hand spindle like the Dwalt used. These spindles are designed to go through aluminum more easily, and with the better HP, they will have the power to do it. Hope this helps.
Byron

It does help, thanks. Nema 23's are not too expensive. I also have a reasonably powerful wood working router that would probably do better than the dewalt. I could also look into a different spindle if that is too big. So that solves the spindle and axis power issue with out much added cost.

What do you think about the stiffness/strength against the x and y axis when the tool hits the aluminum. Do you think that there is enough stiffness in this machine to push through the aluminum on a consistent basis with out too much flex?

I would say it is a rigidity issue. I have never stalled either my steppers or my router, which was a dremel at first. If you plan on doing a lot of aluminum just build it as small and as short as possible. My first 2 videos on you tube were with a tiny flex shaft grinder and tiny 42 oz/in steppers. and as you can see it milled them just fine at a foot print of 30x30.

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I think that I am going to make this. What footprint do you think that I should start with for mostly aluminum? 500X500mm or smaller?

I guess I could always throw in a couple upgrades in the future such as linear rods as well if I wanted a bigger footprint.

Mar 26, 2016 - Modified Mar 26, 2016
john2364 - in reply to Allted

Yep, the Videos looks like it handled it fine. I just never saw what it took to get to that point or how much stress was really applied.

Making it smaller would be ok since I do not have the need to mill large pieces of aluminum although, I always seem to find new needs when I do something like this ;).

Making it smaller would increase rigidity around the x and Y rods, but what about x/y strains on the tool holder/Zaxis rods, is there a concern there or do you think that its mostly in the outer x/y rails where rigidity is a concern?

You could also double up the cross axis rods like the 4 printing head video shows. This would reduce your workable area, but increase rigidity.

Allted - in reply to JBF

No way. I need to brush up on my Spanish and ask him to respect the license.

Although if he sell that for his asking price I am in the wrong business.

Great Thing ;-)
If we use the Marlin Firmware from your site and the Hardware like recommendet, we still Need to configure steps for the axis in the config ?

Best regards from austria

Allted - in reply to ruvy

If you use all the recommended parts the steps are pre-configured.

Allted - in reply to ruvy

Looks great. You need some lube on that z axis though, squeak squeak. haha

I do not understand

Please I have a problem in the mechanism of my machine.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9C5ytNMIQKwaGI5dWZqN0xINlU

how I corrected?

video is private

Anyone know how I can extended the cables for the Heater (12V, 30W) on something like the MK8 printer head? Is there a special wire I need to pick up, and what sort of process does it take to solder/connect them together.

Here's the MK8 setup I had ordered for reference: http://amzn.to/1UekNyb

Reason I ask is if I go from one corner to the other in my small test setup (3' x 15" outside dimensions), the cables would have to be dragged across the surface to even barely be long enough. When I get this to it's full size of 3' x 5' (outside dimensions) there is NO way that heater wires will reach.

You'll be fine at 18ga or better, heated bed is a different story.

Awesome thanks, I'll use my good friend Amazon Prime and order some now. Thanks again for the great design.

This comment has been deleted.

can i take 22 mm od tubes?

No, sorry. For right now either this one with 23.5, or the IE version with 25mm.

Can all of these parts be made on makerbot mini?

Not sure, the roller f is the tallest, the new middle z rigid is the largest otherwise.

I printed all the parts except the rigid middle z with makerbot mini. Is there some way you would recommend slicing the middle z part into 2 parts to print?

Someone has done it on the forums at vicious.com successfully. You might want to try there an see if they want to share their stl's.

I printed all the parts, except the rigid-middle on my makerbot mini. You can do without the rigid-middle if you are willing to print the middle parts from the older plans. You need to re-orient some of the items, but that is no big deal even with the Makerbot Desktop software.

Hey Allted,

I'm thinking about building this to cut polyurethane foam inserts and other things. I come from a 3d printing background and understand that side (extruding up on the z axix), but I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around milling (cutting down). Would the mpcnc be a good tool for cutting out foam? What type of head/cutting tool would be appropriate for this application if was going to cut out thick foam inserts approximately 2-4 inches? Thanks in advance!

Not really sure what you mean by foam inserts, If they are 2D inserts you might be better off with a hot wire cutter. If you are looking to do more than just foam this is the right tool.

When I say foam inserts. I'm simply saying stuff like custom foam inserts for gun cases as an example.

I think that means they are all 2D cuts correct? Hot wire cutter would be best. They are easy to make and no has made a hot wire add on for this yet, sounds like a good challenge.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1211039 This is an attachment that uses a needle to cut thin foam in a 2D pattern (for foamie ariplanes), but I think craing might be talking about machining the foam to fit a 3D shape, using a bit.

I haven't made my MPCNC yet, but I found this estlcam videos to be pretty informative. I hope they represent what using the software will be like.

http://www.estlcam.com/ - The one here where he cuts a 3D shape (a mold of a teddy bear) might help you.
http://www.estlcam.com/projekte.php - The knife block is a pretty cool demo too.

MPCNC 2826 Brushless RC Motor Foam Cutter

My 3D printer broke, and I was thinking of having a friend print out all the parts for this machine, so I could use it as a 3D printer among other things. I know it's great for wood and metal, but how good is it printing?

What layer height is it capable of and how good do the prints look? I am a bit spoiled by .1 layer height of the pritner that broke on me (monoprice flashforge/ctc clone).

I imagine I'd have quite a build area for the 3d printer.. I could print like 12" x 12" dungeon gaming tile pretty easily I imagine.

I am excited about the prospect of this being my primary 3D printer. Please let me know if this is feasible.

I'd buy the kit you're selling.. and I guess you sell a $50 extruder for it as well?

Kind of a tricky question. Technically we are running at 2 times the resolution of most printers, 32nd stepping instead of 16th. Practically this doesn't matter at all. Our prints look just like any other printers we all use the same parts. If you have ever seen a bad print it wasn't the printers fault. I have a bunch of printers running, 4 different brands, all the prints look the same.

Layer height is determined by nozzle size. The MPCNC can easily handle .1mm, as can any other printer.

Yup, have all the parts needed.

My sales pitch is this, It's a printer like all the rest, it can just be bigger, and you can mill with it when you need something other than plastic. Oh, and its pretty inexpensive.

Mar 8, 2016 - Modified Mar 8, 2016
JenniferG - in reply to Allted

Thanks for the reply. I really want to do this but I have so many questions and I don't see a web resource that carefully goes over every single detail of this project. There are so many individual resources avaialbe to read but I don't see an article that ties everything together.. Where is it? I don't know how to go about this.

Is the electronic schematic provided with your controller board? is all of the firmware , drivers & software open source? What programming language / platform? (e.g. I know ASM, C , Arduino etc).

HO wmuch for an entire kit as a 3D printer? I have no clue what to buy.. I really want to pursue this but so many questions.

Does your hardware have an sd reader and usb interface? Does it use cura? how is the wood router controlled?

Vicious1.com?
If you don't find your answers there let me know.

So what all do I need for the 3D printer? I'll buy the conduit at Home Depot and I plan on building a rock solid base with 2x4's.

I need your hardware kit with 30A power supply right? ($275) I might as well skip the 5A power supply? This will work with 110V right? Then I need to buy your printed parts kit for $190. And then the extruder head. What else? What's the spindle for? Do I need the spindle if I attach a DW660?

You only need the 30A if you are going to use a heated bed. other than what's on your list you need an extra stepper driver to run the extruder. If you buy the plastic from me you will need to select the extruder mount as the tool holder.
Yes 110V, or 220V.
The dw660 is the most common tool we use as the spindle in the U.S..

Mar 8, 2016 - Modified Mar 8, 2016
JenniferG - in reply to Allted

So the $240 kit + $190 kit (23.5 with Dw660 tool mount) + $49 extruder + ?$ extra stepper driver + conduit .. that's it?

Stepper Driver DRV8825 ? $4.95

Does the DW660 mount have a way to connect a vaccuum tube to it?

Get the extruder mount and just print your own 660 mount, or you can buy it as an add on.

Yes that's the right part. It is linked on the extruder page.

Thanks for all the help. Is all the software and firmware opensource?

Btw, what is the most common printer software used with ramps 1.4? Does it have an SD card reader or USB interface?

All of this is on the website, a bit scattered but it's there.

Are you asking about free or open source? You can use whatever you want. This is no different than any other FDM 3D printer on the market, it can just handle higher loads.

There is no most common software there are a dozen options. The ramps has a USB port, you can add anything else you want.

You might want to post your questions on the forums to get other peoples opinions other than mine. This comment section isn't the best place for a question.

I really appreciate all your help. I'll check out the forums.

This comment has been deleted.

OK, don't tell my wife, but I'm going to start printing this thing, and sneaking parts into our amazon orders. I should have this thing humming in another few months.

Seriously though, I really want to do this. Before I do, I want to make sure I won't be making a ton of parts just to find out I can't print one of the really hard ones. What's the first thing I should print? What part/assembly has the highest chance of failure? The Z parts in the middle?

I would start with the Better Middle Z, http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:931550

-old- Mostly Printed CNC -Add On- Better Middle Z
by Allted

I printed it, a bit slow, with a brim, and it was 7:20. So if I keep at that pace, it's going to be about 160 hours of printing. It looks very good, and feels strong as a rock. I'm confident I can make this thing. Thank you for your work. I will definitely be buying the hardware kit from vicious1.com.

What you need now is a mostly carved 3D printer.

Well.......I do have some plans for that. It would be a super cool project and a good way for user to try out a lot of the machines functions and a make a useful device. Something along the lines of a box frame prusa.

That would be cool. I have an i3 (wanhao duplicator) and it's been very forgiving of my novice abilities.

Maybe instead, you should make a Mostly carved CNC lathe, and then make a Mostly Turned 3D Printer. Then you'd end up with the trifecta!

Here I find KML bearings 608-RS is the same or need to be 608-2RS?

Hopefully they are just mislabeled. If they are not they only have the rubber shield on 1 side?

The two sides looks the same... and on both sides it says 608-rs KML. I only buy two of them. Should I try other site to buy or you think that can work this ones?

I'm sure you will be fine, but it's not my money to gamble with.

If you are unsure they are available on vicious1.com.

First off GREAT DESIGN! I am in the process of printing this and it looks great so far. I have a question that may have been asked but with almost 1200 comments it would take me longer to find it then it is to print it.

My question is regarding using this as a 3D printer among the other tools. Could the build platform be recessed into the table to provide a larger build height or would this cause too much wobble in the z axis? Say to give 12" of build height.

Thank you for this great design and any suggestions regarding my question.

Thanks.

It wouldn't need to be recessed you can just make longer legs, either way. Tall printing is tricky. I believe there is a video on youtube with a 12-15" printer. They have dual heads and a bowden setup, great idea! I never had too much success with print quality on a bowden but this is one of those cases where its advantages outweigh it's disadvantages!

Ok thanks, I was thinking more along the line of lowering the centre of gravity thinking that might stabilize the Z axis better... ok back to the drawing board so to speak. Thanks for you help and again, great design.

Hello
Is there anyone who has have printed it out in ABS?
How much should I scale up the parts for? because the ABS shrinks a little!

I have a Zortrax M200

Thanks in advance

And excuse my bad English!

Mar 4, 2016 - Modified Mar 4, 2016
norm8332 - in reply to Mackan108

Mine is ABS and I have no problems. It was a bit tight on assembly but it works great. With PLA I was concerned about plastic creep under stress causing looseness over time since studies have shown this in the medical field. Mine was assembled over 9 months ago and used a lot with no loosening of anything. ABS is much more resistant to creep under stress.

I printed in ABS at scale and no problem.

I printed it in ABS and didn't scale anything. The only things that were real tight was the bore for the 608 bearing in the Z motor mount, the Z nut holder and the coupling. That being said, the only reason I used ABS is because that's what I had.

Lots of people have tried it, very few have had success. Printed ABS does not shrink uniformly, so you will get bad parts, especially on the middle assembly.

If you have something against PLA (recommended), try PET.

3dEz - in reply to Allted

I printed mine in petg with great results... Looks sharp too

Hey thanks for the replies.
I printed Corner Block 2 yesterday in the 102% to test, the hole became 24mm.

I also have a Ultimaker Original. but it does not really work, that's why I thought I could print in ABS with my Zortrax.

I've had really good results with PLA. I'm ~95% finished printing. If cost is an issue, foxsmart (thefoxsmart.com, no affiliation) sells PLA for $16/Kilo + $4 US shipping per 6 kilos.

Thanks for the link, I just bought a roll to test. If it's good that price is awesome!

How is the cnc plasma cutter going? How do you wire the plasma cutter into the cnc program?

check it out in the vicious1.com forums.

Feb 23, 2016 - Modified Feb 23, 2016

Hi dear.
I printed the IE and bought 25mm OD tubes and... they shake into the rails...
I double checked the printed files and retainers (read corners) fits perfectly into the 25mm tubes, but rhe rollers rails are not tight fits. Printing dimensions are ok with just 0.05mm discrepancy from original model.
I'm not sure if the design is intened like that, but seem 0.4mm too large for the 25mm OD tubes... I tried a 1" tube and fits perfectly in the rollers but not in the corners or in the Z_motor holder, but perfectly in the Z roller cage.
Any tough?

I used to get nothing but complaints about how tight that exact same part was, I never changed the model. Now you are the second person to say to loose. I actually bought 25mm rail yesterday. I will give it a try myself later. It really must fit though there are hundreds of these out there.

Hi there, I have been printing the IE parts i.e. Corner Block V2 but my 25mm OD Chrome tubing (checked with calipers, accurate) does not fit, I measured the 3D model diameter as 25mm ID, but printing at around 24mm ID (checked with calipers),

Its beyond me how some people have successfully printed these parts and fitted them "snug". Am I doing something wrong?

Cheers, Jon

Have you tried a calibration print with some inner holes?
The parts have print tolerances built in, so you coming up a whole mm different sounds like something else is wrong. Most of the holes are at least .2mm oversized, that is the usual deviation. I can't add more because simplify 3D seems to do holes really well so if I go too big people that use that would end up with loose parts

Try a different slicer as well, some handle them better.

So I'm considering saving up and building this to compliment my 3D printer. Coming from having built a 3D printer I have one question about this device that doesn't make sense to me. Why doesn't this use mechanical switched or anything for end stops like my 3d printer? how does it know when it has reached the end in one direction and stop instead of trying to keep going?

There could be a really big answer for such an innocent question.

1) You can add them if you want, no problem.
1a) This machine starts wherever you place it. Home is where it is. If you really think about it it is easier that way.
2) Most don't use them because unlike a single use small machine we don't always work in the exact same spot. See my latest laser video and you will see the 3d printing hotbed still on the surface as I work next to it.
3) When milling you typically clamp down your work material the create a home that best suits where it is.
5)milling is upside down to 3D printing so z home is usually different unless you use the build surface as home, not the safest way to do it.

Ok cool. thanks for the quick response. Pretty much all of that makes sense except the z axis. When you start to mill something do you just lower the bit to where it touches the material? or have it all the way up? I assume its important where its home is because if i understand correctly if its too high you will be cutting air and if its too low you'll cut too deep too soon. Right?

Yup, easiest way to mill is to just touch the bit to the work surface and set that as z=0.

Makes much more sense when you try the software, or do your first milling. Watch some of the videos and it should be perfectly clear.

Feb 22, 2016 - Modified Feb 22, 2016

A stupid, but maybe not so much, question:
Would this machine be okay for milling wood of app. 100x150 (cm)? If there woul be too much flex... now the "stupid" part... how bad of an idea would it be to fill the outside tubes with cement or something like that?

Edit: Or would I simply be better off just constructing some supports?

That is very large but you should be okay with wood, a midspan support will help for sure. The outside tubes only....might be a good idea but a support I would think is easier.

Is it possibly to use it as a cnc plasma cutter or do you think I need to make a shield that the sparks and heat will stay down and a not fly up.

First one.

Working hard to work out the kinks, https://youtu.be/siJPmzG_pRU

the only problem i have is my plasma cutter once you lift it from the surface of the work piece within 7 seconds the arc turns off but if it can make fast enough to the next part not so much and issue

I just got back from the hardware store. They don't have 5/16x1-3/4" bolts. Instead, would a 5/16x2" bolt work? Would it be too long?

A few people have done it. It works but I think you need to flip one.
Such a bummer, when I first made it I check all three of my local hardware stores to make sure things were very common. This one always seems to be a problem to find though.

I need to draw a new support for the power dexter (multitool) you can have some files in a format other than STL?

Unfortunately in the Fusion stl files have no way to model them as solids
Thanks

Blank tool mounts in parasolid format, should be universal.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:805803

-old- Mostly Printed CNC -Part- Blank Tool Holders
by Allted

Thanks ;)

Hi, Can you show the dimension information of all these parts? I want to make some modification but it is hard to measure the STL model. Thanks.

That is a giant request, and a bit unfair.

Can you be more specific?

Yes, I know, it is unfair. How about just show me the information about the z-motor-mount.stl(IE version), I just want to make the tool mounter, thank you.

I have blank tool mount parasolids available, this should make it simple.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:805803

-old- Mostly Printed CNC -Part- Blank Tool Holders
by Allted

Thanks, I knew that, but I plan to make a tool mounter based on the Z-motor-mount.stl that does not need to drill the tubes, I think that will be easy to install and will be stable.

That would reduce the usable length of the z axis by several inches.

What happened to Camar0's Rigid Middle Z and other add-ons? I printed the parts a few weeks ago and didn't get around to sourcing some of the hardware until now, but I can't find the original images, assembly instructions, or hardware list. It looks like all of his Thingiverse designs have been removed.

He did not say anything to me.

You might want to ask him before republishing his parts. He obviously took them down for a reason.

Have you tried the machine without them? I highly suggest trying it before you fix something that might not really be a problem.

Very strange. His account and everything are completely gone. I wouldn't even know how to get a hold of him if I wanted to.

As for the parts, I had already gone to the trouble of printing them and getting the hardware together, so I wanted to get them installed before I did the final assembly. It's the only "mod" I've printed for it other than your updated parts, so I figured it wouldn't make things any worse, and it would be easier to just go ahead and put them on before I assembled everything rather than tear it apart again to try both configurations.

I am still in the process of making space in my garage for it, so I haven't done anything but some dry fitment of the parts to check for tolerances.

Files aren't available, so if anyone happened to grab the whole pack of STL's, I will reupload them along with the instructions.

Feb 13, 2016 - Modified Feb 13, 2016
amorton12 - in reply to amorton12

Here is a make that includes good pictures showing bolt orientation.
http://www.thingiverse.com/make:186314

If anyone else is interested, the Wayback machine actually preserved the zip fil containing all the STL's.

http://web.archive.org/web/20160118003244/http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1096636/zip

The names are a jumble however, so use the file sizes from the cached Thingiverse page to determine which is which.

Hi Alllted: I been following the development of your project since the beginning and it is amazing, I wondering if anyone has ever tried vertical machining with your design, Im about to start building mine, but due to space restrictions Im thinking of vertical instead of horizontal (well not 100 % vertical but maybe with a 15 to 20 angle) Thanks!!

That was one of the first things a coworker asked when I was first showing prototype parts to him.
I don't see why not, it will add some extra strain to one of your axis (probably the Y), but I think it will be fine as long as you don't try and cram one of the 1.5HP full size routers on there.

A counter weight on the belt that controls the vertical axis should alleviate most of the added stresses.

Hi, And thanks for a very nice and excellent jobb.
I have printed all the parts for the IE. Now when the building begins it turns out that all the nut traps do not fit with normal metric nuts. The traps are to big so the nuts turning around. Have I missed something ?
Everything else fits perfekt.

//Peter

I did find when assembling mine that there are two different OD of regular nuts out there for the 6-32 SAE nuts - I got one pack of screws with nuts that fit the recesses perfectly, but another bulk pack I bought has smaller nuts that spin inside the recesses. I ended up using the smaller ones in places where I could get a wrench on them, and the big ones anywhere it had to be captive.

Thanks!

What size are you using M3.5 or M4? Lock nut or regular. M3.5 lock nuts should fit. You can always glue the nuts in the traps.

Feb 6, 2016 - Modified Feb 6, 2016
PTibemo - in reply to Allted

I´m using M4 lock nuts. M3,5 is to hard to find, and it´s even smaller. I would have guest that´s the traps are done for M4,5
Nut trap for M4 should be 7mm (flat surface to flat surface). 5mm hight if lock nut and 3mm std m4 nut.

I'll have a look at it. All the nut recesses are the same size, none of the others gave you any issues? This is the first I have heard of this.

All the nut traps are to big for a normal M4 nut. But there is no problem with the size of the parts, It fit´s perfect with the tubes and bearings.

Feb 8, 2016 - Modified Feb 8, 2016
Allted - in reply to PTibemo

I'm pretty sure they should be an M3.5 and things would fit nicely.

I'm having the same problem. 3.5m is way to small for the nut traps. Even m4 nuts turn around in the nut traps. All the other measurements are correct, so this does not seem to be a problem with the calibration of my printer. A standard m3.5 nut is about 6mm wide and m4 is 7mm wide. The nut traps however are designed for 8mm...So I think it's kind of weird nobody else mentioned this before or they all just have badly calibrated printers haha. However, I just glued them in since I already printed almost every part.

Is there a better roller lock? Possibly with recessed holes, definitely with thicker holes. Mine split with minimal force!

That is the only one but it really is not structural at all. Snug screws would be more than tight enough. If you over tighten them you can actually split the roller f.

Sorry

Not a problem! I'll try to figure something out with washers.

you could tell me the measurements (length) of pipe in mm? because I do not understand what length should I do the tubes of z axis

Grazie :)

http://www.vicious1.com/assembly/conduit-rails-tubes-pipes/

There is a calculator at the bottom of that post if you want a custom size.

Perfect!
Thanks!

I found everything except the coupling nut 5/16 x 0.75 .... anywhere ... :(

Menards has them, there going to be in the area of the threaded rod.

Menards who it is?

It's a US-based hardware store. I got mine from a similar store called Lowe's. If you can find a hardware store that sells nuts, bolts, and threaded rod, they should have coupling nuts.

I am an Italian maker. I then look for a shop that sells threaded rods and nuts? there is the possibility of replacing this piece with another component easier to find? ..thanks

I'm not sure if there is a suitable substitute - you could possibly use 2 or 3 nuts instead, but I think it really does help to have the right part in this case. Wherever you bought the rest of your hardware should sell a coupling nut - it is a common item.

So I noticed you sell the parts required to make this on your site. Have you considered a customizable version? All I basically need are the fasteners, and I already have the M3x10mm screws and some of the 6/32 screws.

I have but it just takes too long. Then I have to pack custom boxes, take inventory, and order accordingly, and it would only save you $1-$2. The fasteners are not the expensive part.
Sorry

They are in Canada! I'll buy on Ebay in that case. Prices aren't great, but better than local. Thanks anyway!

thanks for your super project.
I have a question, I can use an electronic card different from Ramps? I have a card like Alligator 32bit compatible with Arduino Ramps Mega2560 or there are contraindications?

Thanks :)
Manuel

I had never seen that board before looks nice I am always a little concerned of built in stepper drivers but other than that it has it all! It says it has a marlin port available so that sounds like you will need to add all my edits to there port to get up and running, not to big of a deal.

Let me know how it goes looks cool.

I use the card already on printers that I have and it works the same as with driver Ramps 8825 but with many improvements.
Settings and fw are identical

I finish and then try to print the pieces definitely
To me it would affect only the function cutter for wood and plexiglass as 3d printers I've already 4.
I can give me some guidance particularly since they are interested in this single function?
Components that do not print or some fundamental?

Thank you
:)

thanks for your super project.
I have a question, I can use an electronic card different from Ramps? I have a card like Alligator 32bit compatible with Arduino Ramps Mega2560 or there are contraindications?

Thanks :)
Manuel

How big could I get before it wouldn't be rigid enough? Specifically, I'm thinking about making 2 - One that's a 3D printer and one that's a CNC machine. Would 8'x4' be too big of a CNC machine? If not, could I go to 8'x8'?

You can easily make surfboard blanks out of foam 10'x3'.

This gets answered about once a week. What will you be milling, how big of a tool, how fast do you expect it to got, what material, what are your expected tolerances?

As far as I know the longest conduit is 10', so that is the absolute max. You can add supports mid span under the outer rails to help make things more rigid. When it gets really big I would worry about the z direction sag before anything else. If you had a small dimension like in the surfboard example, one dimension can go huge.

Build a big one and let us know how it goes. My shop is too small.

Okay, thanks. Sorry, I did a quick google beforehand but I wasn't able to find anything.

I'm extremely tempted to make an 8'x4' CNC machine in that case. If I do, I'll post my findings!

I didn't mean to sound snippy, sorry. I just meant sometimes I answer in more details.

I think it is best if you work with half sheets, unless you really need to cut full sheet parts. But I would absolutely love to see a full sheet MPCNC!! I could pull it off in this little shop if I built it on an angle, but I really have no use for it, it would purely be for fun.

Okay, and suddenly I'm debating whether I should build 2 or just have 1 and switch out the tool.

Has anyone used aluminum tubes or rods? Would the steel bearings damage the aluminum?

Aluminum may not be stiff enough, and would be much more expensive than conduit.

Hello, Could someone share their feedrate and rpm settings for cutting acrylic ? plexiglass ?

Anyone in the UK who has made one, please could you let me know where you got your steel tube from? thanks

Has anyone done a mod where only 1 stepper I needed for the X axis. Something similar to the Xcarve?

Wouldn't work unless you added a drive shaft, that is how I was going to do it originally. Steppers are so cheap why not greatly increase your power?

Xcarve does not use a drive shaft. It uses the same belt system but only with one motor on X placed behind the gantry. It runs really fast. Mind that I love what you did but further designs could be done to reduce the Costo to the max.

Right, but this is a different geometry. It would need a drive shaft, and that would cut the power per axis in half, then you would need nema 23's. At that point 2 17's are easier and cheaper. I went through all that in the original design. Including power output of drivers and there cost.

Wondering how the Dewalt DW660 would compare to something like a compact router, like the Bosch Colt (which I currently have on hand). Initially I'm planning on doing plexiglass and cutting parts out of plywood (1/8" - 3/4"). Then eventually I want to get into cutting parts our of aluminum sheets and doing designs / inlays in a harder woods.

The length of time it takes to create something isn't a big deal to me, since I'm already use to doing things a bit slow on my 3D Printer. Would maybe the DW660 be great for all around general stuff and only need the Bosch for certain things that require a bit more power? Or maybe the DW660 can handle everything I wanna do, just have to change the speed (and bit) when I work on harder materials like Aluminum / Hard Wood.

The colt will work, there are two different mounts here on thingiverse for the colt and the MPCNC.

The colt has a little more power than the 660, but it is larger and heavier. The larger size increases the lever arm on the gantry reducing the rigidity and heavier increases moving mass reducing accelerations. That said the colt is fine, you already own one I wouldn't bother spending extra money. Rigidity is by far the most important trait of a CNC, this one has enough to handle shallow pass aluminum milling/routing. As for power the third and forth cuts I made were in aluminum 6061 3d milling with a flex shaft low power grinder. Power isn't really a problem, rigidity is always the focus.

So make the machine as short as you possibly can, and always mount you material to be cut close to the gantry. You don't have to always work on the table I always stack my material to get it as close as possible.

You should get the appropriate bits for the material and cuts you are doing. Bits are only a few dollars and are actually pretty specialized. I keep a few 2 flute endmills, 2 flute ball nose, single flute down cut for plastic and thin sheets/ply, and a some wood bits. Drillman1 on ebay has/had a starter set on ebay for under $20.

Hmm, with that it mine, I may just go with the DW660 right now (since it's only about $50) since I also plan on making one of these for a friend too. So I'll need to make one with all new parts anyways.

I'll definitely look and see what Drillman1 has to offer, thanks.

Curious, if you've seen anyone mount this to a sheet of plywood so that it can be stored hanging on a shop wall? Wonder if I could store the entire device + spindle. I was thinking something like this setup would be sweet:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=REiwGWiu_zQ

I have seen one hanging on the wall, but I think that was just a second build in progress. You could very easy do it, I would suggest not storing it with the heavy tool on it just because it is easy to remove, why store it under stress when you can remove the stress.

I have wanted to make a large one built on an angle for big wood cuts, but my current shop is much too small for that. I think this would work great if you had a short z height machine.

Jan 14, 2016 - Modified Jan 14, 2016

Just ordered the Parts bundle from your website, can't wait to start printing all the parts and getting this put together :-)

Has anyone found a good 3mm 3D Printing Hot End for this MPCNC setup? Reason being is that I have a bunch of 3mm filament sitting around for my current 3D Printer. Would love to be able to set this up as a second printer when I need to mass produce some parts.

Well I do like the direct drive mk8 style extruder setups, they work so well. Some are 3mm capable. Not the ones I usually stock, but I am looking into getting somebspare parts. The only difference in the 3mm ones is the throat, 1 small part.
On thebother hand if you want to make a bunch of parts or larger parts something like the valcano woild be much faster. Its a larger nozzle monster that lays down a lot of plastic at once. Seems like a good idea if yoibwant to mass produce things.
Let us know how it goes.

btw, is there a decent Graphics Controller you recommend? Since I noticed yours was out of stock. Maybe this one?
http://amzn.to/1N9JZMN

That will work just fine, The only issue is some need a resistor soldered on the back. If you get if and the contrast is out of wack let me know and I can help you fix it.

Sounds great, thanks. I have a ton of resistors laying around here, so I should have the right one for the job ;-)

I have found that my conduit pipes are not perfectly inline with each other on each side, does this actually effect the machine? From my testing it doesn't seem to make a massive difference as long as things are moving smoothly.

However, it is still weighing on my mind. Just want a little clarification on that. The machine I am making is large. 5'x3' ish.

Thanks

In what way?
This should get you really close, http://www.vicious1.com/assembly/frame/

The inner rails are not perfectly square. Not sure exactly how to fix it, but I will mess with it. Though I have not mounted the entire thing to a table yet, so that may be the problem.

Whilst designing my own CNC I solved a little nag that I had when leveling my MP_CNC, so have posted that part for use if any one can use
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1261340
It can be used around the sides and corners for leveling and supporting the bed, and I will incorporate into the feet or legs on my MP_CNC when time allows me to do so.

Bed Level for MostlyPrintedCNC
by Lucan07

Has anyone cut Delrin/Acetal with the MPCNC? I'm wondering how smooth the edges could be, especially for cutting sheets. Could you make puzzle pieces slide together nicely for example?

Would you mind sharing the cad files?

Not yet, sorry. I have explained in detail in these comments and in the forums why. I will release them when #2 is getting finalized.

Thanks for the reply. I figured it had been mentioned before, but with 1000+ comments here and no comment search feature...

This version is damn amazing, and inspiring. You have me excited to see V2, I didn't even know it was in the works.

Well nothing groundbreaking yet.

Just minor tweaks.

Jan 10, 2016 - Modified Jan 10, 2016

Not sure what the precision is of conduit but this could be an upgrade for tighter tolerances when used with the international versions parts... http://www.amazon.com/Polished-Finish-Precision-Standard-Tolerance/dp/B00CNM6RFA

Here's a slightly cheaper option in Aluminum. Now if I only hadn't printed all the parts for American conduit first.

Nice but $64/3', I know it seems like an easy upgrade but consider the overall moving mass and do you really need .0001" resolution? I am not trying to be negative but it is really easy to upgrade every single part on this machine, start with the stock machine and then evaluate if you really need better?

Aluminum might easily wear out rolling against hardened steel bearings. I would stick with steel.

If mine prints better than any of my 6 3d printers I feel the resolution is outstanding. They all use polished rods, my mpcnc uses $7/10' conduit. There is something to be said for rigidity.

Ordered my electronic kit! Went and checked out the conduit today, everything around me seems to have a weird coating on it that's incredibly rough. Is this the same conduit you are using? Home Depot and Lowes call it "texture" - its a clear coating over bare metal.

That should just be a zinc coating that comes off with an hour or so of use.

Normal

Awesome. I like the idea of it being slider, and I know some camera sliders with bearings use carbon fiber, and I think it's the same cost as what I listed above for the carbon. I wonder if it would survive the number of passes but it would be incredibly accurate, much stiffer, and weigh as much as air.

Could you measure the diameter of the OD of the conduit after the coating has worn off?

Jan 15, 2016 - Modified Jan 15, 2016
Allted - in reply to mrarmyant

Mine are being torture tested. One of them has just been printing the roller f part continously for almost 3 months my measurements would be pretty bad.

You should aim for either 23.5mm or 25 for the IE version.

I feel the point load of these bearings would be much higher and cause delamination, pretty fast.

I would love for you to try it out though, if it works it would be a pretty slick upgrade.

Wow these accept a good range then. What's the desired size you think for the US version?

That is a radial load, we use point loads. And di you see the price.
Conduit is $3.50/10' and works perfectly. I wouldn't bother. You can always pay for better, but diminishing returns is very clear in the cnc world.

I highly reccomend using it as is, first. You can't call something an upgrade if you have no baseline to compare it to. There are plenty of "upgrades" that haven't been compared against the stock machine. Most actually work but I doubt they actually have real world benefits. So why spend the time and money.

That is not a range, one or the other. I don't want to give a range that would cause a lot of issues for me. Just know it is a litte forgiving, as it wears in you can snug things up.
Like I said i run one 20 hours a day for about 3 months there is plenty of wear but it still prints really well.

Did you ever thinked of using LM25UU Bearing's?

Sure, and then you look at the price of those bearings and the polished rods, and the tools to cut hardened steel. At that point you might as well get a small HASS Mill.

Good point ;) never thinked about that. I thought that the bearing easily slide in normal steel pipe.

First off thank you for the design.

Could you please tell me how smoothly is it supposed to slide on the rails? I have the whole frame assembled, and all the electronics will be in tomorrow. I am having a hard time figuring out, if my rails are smooth enough. I can hand move it quite well, with little resistance. However, it is not as smooth as building say a reprap axis with the chromed rods.

I expect this machine to not be as smooth.

Please let me know.
Thank you

There will be lots of rolling resistance. But make sure you followed the directions and didn't tighten everything down, especially the tension bolts that have plastic on both sides of the bearings.

The plastic will give a bit and the zinc coating will wear off and things will be much smoother after a little use. then if things are too loose you can snug up the tension bolts.

Make sense?

Jan 7, 2016 - Modified Jan 7, 2016

I have a 5ftx10ft CNC Plasma table I have been trying to finish for years. Problem is I have to use a 2x2 CNC plasma to cut the size panels out for the gantry. Do you think this would hold up to a mount for a Hypertherm machine or hand torch? Maybe if some sort of shield was around it to keep from any blow back from coming towards the main Z? I'm using ABS for the more simple parts and PETG for the ones requiring precision. I guess I could try to design a torch mount if anyone is interested.

I was looking into buying a cheap plasma torch a few weeks ago, and then we started to get crappy weather. I would need to do cuts outside, so I put that on hold.

I don't see why it wouldn't be able to handle that at all. Hardest part is dealing with the trigger.

I would love to see you do this! I want a plasma cutter, and a Tig welder And I would be very happy with my shop!

That's interesting I have the exact opposite worry. I have a hyperhterm 45 and 100, there is a fair amount of splatter that comes up from peirce cuts. The cut material also retains heat. And we aren't talking minor heat like 240c, we are talking 1000c+, granted it cools as its being blown into the air. Possibly drilling and tapping holes in the bottom of the z would allow for a light duty aluminum shield to be bolted on that is the profile of the overall assembly.

The trigger however can be disconnected on the machine side and connected to a relay controlled by the computer. It's just a momentary switch in the handle that runs back to a relay in the machine! A machine torch is much much easier, and what I wanted for my large table, but adds another 500 bucks when I already have the hand torch. I'm printing my CNC now and will be placing an order for the electronics then will let you know how it goes!

So cool. I bought a solid state relay anticipating the switch/trigger sounds like I did the right thing.

So for that shield you could do a downward facing cone, or maybe some wire mesh? You are making me jealous, maybe I can invest in a cutter after taxes. Can't wait to see it in action.

I'm thinking just quite literally a flat piece of aluminum, say 1/16th thick. That would be plenty and just needs to make sure that any upward spatter stops there. There isn't a lot of force, it's just hot. Hopefully your taxes are in your favor!

Crude mount but looks effective. http://arnnworx.com/images/17_small.jpg

Watch some videos of CNC plasma cutting and watch the pierces. I once put a chop saw blade on a circular saw made for wood (lots of plastic) the entire thing was unusable after about 4 cuts. Ran across http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:176587, but no comments on it actually working. Have you tried the heavy duty dewalt router on this? Might get that to machine a handle mount out of aluminum then use that for the plasma cutter to finish the large plasma cutter that I was originally building to make a tube bender...

HF Plasma Cutter handle mount
by jacktar
Jan 7, 2016 - Modified Jan 7, 2016
Allted - in reply to mrarmyant

So for me, doing basic cuts on thin stock, wanting to stick with 120V your cutter (about $1500?) is over kill right ? I see so many cheepie plasma's around $500. Is there something I'm missing or you think I'll be okay with a basic cutter?

Jan 7, 2016 - Modified Jan 7, 2016
mrarmyant - in reply to Allted

I got mine new for 1200, a hypertherm 30 can be had for less. There are some really decent Chinese vendors out there now, but they all tend to over rate the cutters, hypertherm is the only one that under rates. Also one of there employees, Jim Colt, has a huge online presence and is incredibly supportive. The two things with tools to remember are a) at some point you will always wish you went bigger and b) when you do need to go bigger, what's the resale value of the tool you originally bought?

I almost bought a chinese one, I purchased my hypertherm about 4 years ago and could still sell it for close to what I paid for it. The support has been phenomenal. And there are always replacement parts if something goes wrong.

I think they just came out with a 30 XP, and I know it does both 110/220. That would be a super handy unit and would always have an incredible long term value. There is also one with built in air which is quite cool. Welders Supply Co has some good deals, ( I think that's where I got mine.) but I can definitely tell you after having used about 10, and owned 3, plasma cutters you get what you pay for. And if times are tough unloading the Porsche of Plasma is way easier than finding a buyer for a Tut Tut.

Nice, thanks!

The dewalt dw660 has plenty of power for aluminum, and a smaller moment arm than the larger routers. Stiffness/rigidity is the enemy of this machine not power. So as small of axis as possible especially the Z axis. No need for larger motors or spindles.

I would start with a printed mount and the metal shield. I think it would be fine. I mean the hand piece is wrapped in an injection molded ABS cover right?

A mount should be super easy, mounting the cable in a way that it would not tug on the gantry as it moves is the biggest concern. It has been at least a year since I touched a plasma cutter so I don't remember how stiff that cable bundle really is.

How small are we talking? I could always have a set of small milling tubes and a 2ftx2ft set of plasma.

It's not horribly stiff but could be a problem. You would probably sip tie it so it leaves the Z vertically and have it suspend from the top. Typically the hand torch lengths are around 25ft so plenty of room for this.

If you can manage that cable bundle well enough you can do a giant build with a 6"-8" Z no problem. The hand piece is very light and not sensitive to minor movements. I think a 4'x4' would be completely within reason, or something like a 3'x6' even. Plasma is the one area I think you could do an even larger build with no issues if you put a support mid length on the outer rails. I believe there are a few 4x8 builds out there for wood sheets but no picture evidence yet. The forces on that would be huge compared to a plasma.

So a common issue with CNC plasma is acceleration - do you know what max acceleration of this unit with the 72oz steppers is?

My default conservative accelerate is 400mm/s and that is set for the dw660. It can easily be turned up for something as light as a plasma torch.

This comment has been deleted.

so If I want full clean 1000x1000mm workspace my measurement should be 1260x1260 to compesate the XY axis correct?

That's pretty close. GeoDave made this Calculator that gives tons of info.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:948320

Mostly Printer CNC / Multitool Layout Size Calculator
by GeoDave

What a great design. I have a couple of questions. What's the largest build volume you can get with this setup? I looking to do something like 4' x 8'.

This comes up a lot, for a more detailed answer you can probably just search these comments.

But in a nut shell, it depends on what you want to cut at that size, and the tolerances you need. I wouldn't plan on aluminum. If you go large I suggest adding a support somewhere on the span of the outer rails. But technically yes it is easily doable.

I have 60feet of sch40 stainless 3/4 pipe. The o.d. Is 26.67. Is there enough flex in the design to squeeze it into the 25mm prints

No sorry, It causes miss alignment issues. Even 25.4 hasn't worked out.

Wow that right huh. How big could you go with conduit before it stars to flex n vibrate

I always suggest going slightly larger that you largest anticipated work piece. The answer depends on what tollerances you need.

The largest would be 36x36 cutting space. Mostly with 1/4in aluminum sheets. I've never played with conduit but friends are telling me I would get a good amount of bouncing if the tool head started to chatter while cutting closer towards the center.

Your cuts would be 36" or the sheets? If you are making small parts you can build the machine a bit differently (clamping it on top of the sheets) and be fine.

Your friend has one of these? The video of me cutting the aluminum motor mount is on a 36"x24". If you haven't tried it I wouldn't count it out. Use the minimum z distance you can and I don't see a problem. I have a new dw660 mount that makes the bit to gantry distance 20mm shorter, shorter = more rigid = faster cuts.

I was aiming for my largest part to be 36x36. But I have a nice hard wood work desk I plan to make the cnc fit. No my friend dose not have one he is a commercial electrician n just thought the conduit was a little weaker. But I'm definitely going with your design. I downloaded the files last night. Is the updated dw660 file in there? Also how much working space do you get out of the overall corner to corner frame? Say I make x axis 30 inches how much should I subtract to get the working space?

36x36 butting area for aluminum is asking a lot. I think it will work, but I can't promise. It is worth a try though, the only other way to cut that big is a plasma table or a water jet, any mill with that big of an envelope would cost more than a water jet.

There is a calculator linked at the end of this page to help you out, but it does not account for the spindle. it was made when we were using the fordom style tool.

yea, well that was worst case lol but I decided to go with mounting it on my one of my work benches I'm not using, over all frame size will be 30in x 60in. so I'm guessing from what I have read, ill be in the ball park of 28x52 working space, do you think it could support a DeWalt DWP611? if that's a possibility that would be amazing

Jan 2, 2016 - Modified Jan 2, 2016
Camar0 - in reply to Thebak3

My build has 50x50 cut area with 60x60 rails and works fine. All total I spent $50 modifying my rails, z angle, and adding the rigid middle parts. Good luck with your build!

Thebak3 - in reply to

awesome! thank you!

I think the 611 is complete over kill, the 660 is smaller, lighter, shorter moment arm, and has way more than enough power. Lots of factors when moving a tool other than HP. 611 gives more power but decreases rigidity.

very true, ill take your advice! Ill be ordering your hardware/electronics kit on the 14th from your website!

Planning on making this to cut panels for my printer enclosure.

How easy is it to disassemble for storage?

I live in a not-so-big apartment and only have space to set it up for temporary use. Would I be able to disassemble each axis without de-tensioning the belts? That way I would have a collection of 6 poles and the center carriage that I could store away in a closet.

Not impossible but not real easy either. Best to mount it to a board and then hang it on the wall or something.

I am having a problem with my motors sticking or catching even when moving them by hand when powered down.

When I disconnect the motors from each other they run perfectly smooth which I think pretty much eliminates a mechanical issue, but when I wire them in parallel with the connector they start to stick every 10 mm or so. This problem persists when I run them with repetier through an arduino mega and RAMP 1.4 and DRV 8825 (recommended setup from the site.)

Could this be due to the mismatch in inductance for the two motors on the same axis? I would expect to see other people commenting on this if it was so.

Dec 30, 2015 - Modified Dec 30, 2015
Allted - in reply to jwrightzz1234

That is normal. They act as generators when you move them and they actively fight back. It means you are wired perfectly.

When I power the motors and run them in manual mode after about 100mm the motors will stick or stagger. I have tried to change the speed, change the current on the driver but it hasn't made a difference.

One thing to note that seemed a bit odd was that after jogging the motor maybe 400mm the heat sink will start to get hot to the touch. The current on the driver is set to 2 amps.

My motor ratings are 2 amps per phase, is the current setting on the driver enough to run the system?

Your drivers are set wrong. You didn't give any specifics on what steppers or drivers so please look up your drivers and how to set them properly. The steppers should have a voltage and amperage rating. You will nees to convert that to watts and then find the voltage for that pot based on 12v and you drivers equation.

Dec 30, 2015 - Modified Dec 30, 2015
MishaT - in reply to jwrightzz1234

Sounds like a short in your wiring, or you accidently crossed coil pairs when wiring.

Has anyone tried sanding or polishing the conduit? I quick sanded with 220 grit paper to knock down the major bumps and it seemed to help reduce the noise at least.

3dEz - in reply to MishaT

Yes, I used some steel wool (same used to polish cooking pans) and they look really shiny. Obviously the zinc is gone now so I coated with oil.

That coating is just zinc (soft) over relatively smooth steel. It comes right off after a half hour or so of ruining by itself.

Hello, do you have any ideas as how to how I can mount a Proximity Sensor near the nozzle so that I can perform auto bed leveling? (I have been having issues printing due to undeveloped print bed).

A few things.
If you are printing right on the waste board you can just mill it flat and then your surface is pretty perfect.
If you are printing on a heated bed take the time to level it, the prints come out better. It should be easy if it is on springs.

If you don't want to do either of those. This seems to explain it well, http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:539692 a mount should be very easy to fab up.

How to install an Inductive Proximity Sensor for Auto Bed Leveling

Thanks for the speedy reply!

Good day. Sorry to here this engine will fit instead of your engine "PL42H48-D5" mm, 5.5 kg. cm, 5mm shaft, current 2.4 A, step 1.8°.??

Good day. Sorry but this engine will fit instead of your engine. "PL42H48-D5" mm, 5.5 kg. cm, 5mm shaft, current 2.4 A, the step of 1.8°.

As long as it is a nema 17, it fits. that looks like a 42oz/in though make sure it is at least that strong, that is as small as you should go.

Awesome design! Ideas are a dime a dozen but to take an idea and turn it into reality is priceless. Then to polish it up and share it with everyone else is outstanding. I just started my build and I read in another post you were working on v2. Would you mind sharing any of the updates you're thinking about? I may incorporate those into my build as I go. I would suggest to others out there planning on printing their parts to test fit as they go. I had to reprint about 20hrs due to my printers configuration, there is some tight tolerances on some of the parts.

Thanks!
V2 is just getting started. I am working on the very first piece. That means I have a long way to go, and a ton of prototype parts to print. As of now it will require a whole new set of printed parts but I am doing my best to keep the hardware the same. Maybe switch the 3/4" screws for 1", but screws are cheap.

what are dimensions of 25mm metal rods? I can't find any information how long they are in standard project...

Hi, nice looking design.
I have some stainless tubimg. Ø22mm OD and some Ø19 OD and was wondering if you had the original cad files to share.
I find trying to modify .STL's is almost easier to redraw.
I can use most solid files.

many thanks

Allted - in reply to Bixx

Sorry. I am not ready to give out the files yet.

I have given my reasons for this many times in these comments and on the forums but it boils down to, these are easy files to create for someone with CAD abilities. This also slows down the influx of poorly designed, or incorrectly designed parts. When I first released these files so many people just started combining stl's and changing dimension making totally non printable parts. Then I get stuck trying to help people troubleshoot them.

I would not suggest using smaller bars. If you do make a smaller version please respect my release licenses.

Bixx - in reply to Allted

Hi Allted,
thanks for taking the time to reply.
I respect your reasons and have no intention of abusing your licenses.

Does anything adjust on the bearings slide to take up slack around the conduit, or does the 3d print just need to be very exact?

The parts are intentionally undersized, to take up the initial flex. Then there is one bolt on each part that controls tension, the one with plastic on both sides of the bearing.

Good day. I really liked your design! And I decided to do it. I am a novice. Please tell me.The pipe is 25mm and the length is 500mm all? And another question can I replace the stepper motors you used on "17HS8401 Nema 17 or Nema 17 17HS4401"?

Here is a calculator to figure out lengths.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:948320

Any NEMA 17 will work. The stronger the better, the ones you linked are as small as I would go.

Mostly Printer CNC / Multitool Layout Size Calculator
by GeoDave

Огромное спасибо. Кое что не понятно но разберусь. Значит двигатели в принципе можно и другие но схожие с параметрами ваших двигателей. Буду искать. Еще раз спасибо. Поеду трубы закупать.

Google translate to the rescue!

Please post a picture when you are finished.

Definitely going to unsubscribe. And ask questions as you build. I'm a beginner. But the 3D printer has already mastered.

if one was going to make an externally powered heat bed for this large size 3d printer, how would one go about doing it? any ideas or suggestions?

For something standalone you could use a PID with a SSR. Search ebay for more info. Allted uses a second ramps (i think?). I thought about using radiant floor heaters powered by the ssr/pid for truly large format heat bed but youd still fight warping unless your in a heated build chamber. Just my 2c.

Yea, that looks like a solid idea, but how were you able to build or where did you buy the heater? were you planning to build the floor heaters around the build area, or from underneath? i have a glass mirror, almost 2 foot square building area. my thought was something akin to a reptile heating pad, but of course able to heat to the higher temps.

Dec 21, 2015 - Modified Dec 21, 2015
Camar0 - in reply to Jimmystanley37

More relevant info:

http://airtripper.com/698/resistance-wire-heated-build-platform-diy-tutorial/

http://www.projectsbyzac.com/843/reprap-3d-printer/large-3d-printer-heated-bed-build-platform-issues

Or buy 9x MK2B heated beds off Aliexpress for $57 shipped from china and build an array of 9x 8"x8" heat beds wired to relay(s). ;) That sounds the easiest to me.

Hi Allted

Trying to get the lost homing distance using your suggested router and components? Table 36" x 36" = 30" x 30"? Having issue importing STL in SW to assemble the table.

Thanks
DGP

Not sure what the question is?

Sorry , with the tool offset, how much machining area do I have? if the tool is at x0,y0 on 36"x36" table how much machining area do I have?

Thank
Dave

Depends on the size of your spindle. Both of mine are printing parts right now but I can check in the morning. You lose somewhere around 7 inches with the dw660.

Hi,

Do you recommend an enclosure for the Full Graphic Smart Controller sold on your website?
I read there are different case dimensions and I want to make sure I print the right case.

Thanks,

Dec 19, 2015 - Modified Dec 19, 2015
Director - in reply to Pyramids

I do not have Allted's specific Full Graphic Smart Controller, but for mine I used this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:789899/#files. I put the Arduino/Ramps and a fan in an old Radio Shack box I had laying around and just bolted the LCD case to it. These posts have some photos. My LCD looks very similar to Allted's and doubt there are big differences in the dimensions.
http://www.vicious1.com/forum/topic/placement-of-electronics/#post-4376
http://www.vicious1.com/forum/topic/cosx2y2-milled-in-wood-post-1/#post-4673

Probably a good idea to measure the STLs in Sketchup or another CAD program to check some of the dimensions.
SteveC

Robo3D RepRap display with capacitive touch

oh wait you mean the LCD....I'm working on that right now.

My printers are all busy trying to full some christmas orders. I will release it as soon as I have printed and tested it.
Trying to make it match the ramps case.

Yes, the LCD. I just got it in the mail today. I look forward to your design.

I'm pretty partial to this one.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1183975

Ramps 1.4 Cover
by Allted

Hi Allted, Passing inch to 3/4 inch millimeters would measure 19.05mm is correct? tubes are 19.05mm original version?

Conduit is measured by the inside diameter. The OD is about 23.5mm

That has just screwed me over, I ordered 3/4 tubing to find it far too small. I have never heard of anyone measuring it from the inside without stating ID.

Thanks Allted!

Dec 16, 2015 - Modified Dec 16, 2015

these pieces work in 25.4mm tubes that get in Argentina.

No, sorry.

Please look into stainless steel tubes, or look at ebay for 25mm OD.

Dec 16, 2015 - Modified Dec 16, 2015
ramirou - in reply to Allted

In Argentina we have restrictions for foreign purchases, buy in ebay is not an option, the international version will not work with 25.4mm tubes?

Furthermore as 3/4" in millimeters it is equal to 19.05mm?

25.4 will not work it has been tried many times.

Look into 25mm OD stainless steel, it is very common. Used for boats, restrooms, closet rods. Make a few phone calls, all the metal suppliers here can get 25mm, but for us the emt is much cheaper.

3/4" emt is rated by the ID.

The only country to have a size issue so far are parts of australia. You should physically measure anything your hardware store has.

Thank you, keep looking .... for now I only found 25.4

Hello Allted, again congratulations on the prize !!! I make a query, I want to make the machine milling wood, my idea is to make traveling on the axes 1 meter x 50 or 80 cm, will be sufficiently rigid in these measures?

No problem.

Check out the website for more details.
vicious1.com

Felicitaciones!!!! por el premio, totalmente merecido...una gran maquina...la estoy construyendo...muy buen aporte!!!

Thank you, the grand prize is determined sometime this month. keep your fingers crossed!

Good luck on the build

Hey Allted thanks again for a great design and project!
I've finally got my cnc completely assembled and wired up that I bought as a kit from you. I downloaded Repetier Host yesterday to try and do a test run of an STL file. But after slicing and everything for some reason the X-axis goes straight across and the motors don't stop until it keeps hitting the side of the machine. I am assuming I have to set up the parameters within Repetier Host for the size of the working area but I'm not sure how to do that. The cnc is 3'x3'. If you or anyone else in this forum has a solution that would be greatly appreciated!

All the settings are on this page.
http://www.vicious1.com/import-extruder/
That might help explain this better.

Okay great thanks for the quick reply! I'll be sure to try it out later tonight

Sounds like it is trying to home before it starts. You need to take that out.
You should take out all the beginning gcode, and use this as the end

G91
G1 E-5
G1 Z5
G90
M104 S0 T0 ; turn off temperature
M104 S0 T1 ; turn off temperature
M140 S0
M84 ; disable motors

Is there any modifcations to include some gears at the motors output to get a little bit more precision?

What kind of precision are you looking for?
The step size of the sets sold at vicious1.com is .oo5mm for the X and Y axis, much higher for the Z. Those steps are so small inconsistencies in the rails are probably larger.

first of all thank you for the real quick response, I was looking for to use it for PCB milling among other things and I didn't see as many repercussion for this application.

The hardest thing about pcb milling is mounting the boards extremely flat. There should be no issues with step resolution, Make the machine small and rigid and you will be fine, if you can get the raw pcb's flat.

This comment has been deleted.

Hi,

Thanks for great, useful CNC building. I know it is multitool but I want to use it with easy changeable tool holder. I mean that First, I draw some shapes with pen and then I cut them from outer border via laser diode. So laser head and pen holder should mount easy on Z axis.
If it is has a click part or two bolts, it will be good. I hope, understand me

Allted - in reply to ase

I'm pretty sure that actually has been made. Check out the remixes for inserts that fit in the standard tool holder.

Link to Metric parts list is borked...

Hi,

What is the conduit's length that you use (include the length of conduit who isn't visible) ?
And what surface is it possible to work with ?

If i want to make a 50*50cm CNC, the conduit must be around 60cm, is it ok ?

Thanks in advance

Any size you want.

There is a calculator GeoDave made, linked at the end of that page.

http://www.vicious1.com/assembly/conduit-rails-tubes-pipes/

Ok. Thanks for the informations.
I will watch all of this.

Did anyone try Nema 23 Motors with T2.5 belts? The motors i have, have already mounted T2.5 pulleys on them. I would like to use these belts:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-5Meter-T2-5-Timing-Belt-width-6mm-Pitch-2-5mm-with-steel-core-T2/1758387649.html?spm=2114.01020208.3.40.8A9qh7&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_1_79_78_77_80,searchweb201644_0,searchweb201560_1

Does anybody know how well these belt pulley system works?

leo69 - in reply to Scenz

I would stick with 17's. If anything.Just get the bigger 17 steppers and try to find drivers that will power them to their full potential. The 4988 drivers leave the x and y steppers a little under powered because they're wired in parallel. I'm running 3amp tb6560 drivers with big heatsinks on them. This is plenty of juice for my 17's.

Scenz - in reply to leo69

Well i have them already so i would try them first. I've just orderd some TB6600 to drive them. On the Z-axis i'm going to use one nema 17 which i also already have.

Dec 11, 2015 - Modified Dec 11, 2015
Camar0 - in reply to Scenz

I like your plan with the tb6600s. I'm running 1x drv8825 12.5v at 1.54a currently per motor. I can rapid faster than the cnc router parts 4x4 standard kit (18,000 mm/min vs 15,000). I'm going to bump it up to 2.2a and 40v when I finish modding my hp 600pb power supplies. With the 6600 you could even use the esp120 if you dialed down the voltage below 50v.

17vs23 depends on your size and goals for the machine. No doubt 17 is fine for most but there are a large range of machine sizes being built here. Im very happy with 23s moving my 5' rails. The belts will limit your rated working loads so reference the charts.

Allted - in reply to Scenz

It will work just fine, you will need to recalculate each axis step per mm in the firmware though.

Careful you can rip the machine apart with 23's, it has already happened.

Dec 9, 2015 - Modified Dec 9, 2015
Camar0 - in reply to Allted

Which part did they break?

I've crashed my setup into the ends a handful of times for various reasons and even milled through a steel screw without breaking it. I'm still using the carbide bit that plunged through the screw head at full speed and it seems okay. The 9mm GT2 belts just start hopping when I hit the ends. I used the mechanical belt tightener add on to attach my belts with eyelets if that makes any difference. The tension is pretty tight. I would have to say end stops are a good idea with the 23s.

Allted - in reply to

Not sure, pretty sure it was in the forums. He built it and first thing he did was hit home all. Said he was rebuilding it with 17's.

Guys, why 3/4" is 23.2 or 25mm, 25.4mm is 1 inch. How come 3/4" is equivalent to 25 mm? I'm building this machine using SI unit but 25mm is very big. Luckily i still did not buy the frame.Somebody can clarify this?

Nov 30, 2015 - Modified Nov 30, 2015
Camar0 - in reply to msidris

EMT, RMC, sch 40, sch 80, whatever spec international uses all give a wall thickness and diameter. Someone else may have a better explanation for the international specs.

http://www.atc-mechanical.com/tube-pipe-101/tube-pipe-size-overview/

Nov 25, 2015 - Modified Nov 25, 2015

Great design and execution I am only critical of one small thing, the tool mount is simple but restrictive and I do not like the idea of removing and remounting for different tools plus came up very tight using 8mm Leadscrew with Flanged Nuts.
My solution which is rough to say the least is to have a quick release mount so I can have many different tools attached to back plates with plugs so that moving from Print Head to Milling Head or Laser Head etc would be as simple as
1) Unplug electrical
2) Slide out current head
3) Slide in new Head
4) Plug in electrical
5) Check calibration and continue to etch print engrave or mill as required.
My design is basic but should work but if a standard quick release were available then mounts could be designed onto the stock back plate and shared very simply and quickly.
I am proficient in Many programming languages from COBOL to Visual Studio but do not have time to learn CAD tio the extent I would like at this time so use simple tools like tinkercad to produce prototypes when playing. My attempt is here but if someone with CAD experience produced a standard unit I would prefer to use that.
I have posted my attempt on here as an example rather than for people to use.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1156014

Mostly Printed CNC QR Toolmount
by Lucan07
Nov 24, 2015 - Modified Nov 24, 2015

Hi Allted,
great design, simple and clean! Thanks a lot for sharing this with the community, giving everyone a chance to build their own machine.
Meanwhile I'm building my own here in China and I'm thinking on translating your instructions in chinese, would be cool to raise an army of MPCNC.

Allted - in reply to XiaZ

Thanks for the kind words. Have at it, build a couple, I did!
If you do end up translating it I would love to link to it or put it on the site. We have German and Spanish so far.

what pc options to run the MPCNC is everyone using?

awesome desgign!

I'm wondering has anyone tried to make this machine very large?

i need to be able to cnc a full 4ft by 8 ft sheet of plastic...

I'm wondering if the emt conduit is rigid enough for that span? Is there any other material with the same outer dimension that would easily
be adopted in it's place for strength?

Thanks in advance.

Nov 22, 2015 - Modified Nov 23, 2015
Allted - in reply to mikebaier

I am really not sure how it will do at that size. You can put some supports on the outer rails to increase rigidity if needed but plastic is pretty mellow to cut and might not need them. If you are interested in cutting all the way through you might be okay. It is the depth that I would be most concerned about changing on a 3d profile.

The only other rails I know of are stainless steel pipes or boat rails. They might be more rigid but I can't say for sure.

I don't really have the space right now to build a full sheet machine or I would give it a try. This question gets asked once a week or so. So if you try it out let me know how it works so I can see if any changes need to be made.

Hi, may I ask you for some advise about limit of the Z axis. I have all the part printed out. I want to build a 3d printer with a E3D V6 hotend. and want to get a X and Y axis for 24"x24", but I am not sure how tall I can go with this frame. I am thinking about something like 24" tall for the Z axis. I it possible to go that tall? or it is design to be short for CNC mill only? Thank you.

Dec 18, 2015 - Modified Dec 18, 2015
3dEz - in reply to prozix

For printing big, consider the E3D V6 Volcano. It has a different heatbreak/nozzle with larger volume hot end and was designed for extruding high plastic volume fast. It was designed for printing very large parts. You will probably need a geared extruder too. You can find an eBay clone cheap and with a couple of hours of prep work (polishing barrel, seasoning, etc) it should work fine.

Thank for the information. I plan to use large extruder 1.2m to print only large model. I think I may have to reduce the Z Axis to 8" and find another solution for the taller, but smaller base for my next printer ( an up and down bed for example ). I am wondering what is the maximum speed your printer can go for a decent quality print. Thank again for your advise.

To clarify, the largest I have done is 8". I can easily go much larger but I can not comment on to how fast you can move. Actually I believe you have to move a bit slower that that large of a nozzle to be able to melt the filament required anyway.

Please try it.

24" seems a bit much, honestly I have not tried anything over 8". 24" is possible but you would probably have to print very slow to reduce "ringing" in your prints.
I suggest starting shorter and deciding from there. 24" would take a very long time to print unless you use a large extruder nozzle.

Which pipe length would i need to get an work area of around 45cm * 45cm ?

The recommended build gets you just about 500x500. http://www.vicious1.com/assembly/conduit-rails-tubes-pipes/

If you want to cut it down, GeoDave made an awesome calculator here, http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:948320

Mostly Printer CNC / Multitool Layout Size Calculator
by GeoDave

Hi,

I've printed most part of this machine and begin to install, but I am not sure how to install the axis Z, is the 5_16 coupler nut installed in z_nut_lock? is the 5_16 coupler nut necessary? and what is the usage of the spring between 5_16 coupler nut and 5_16 nut? And what to adjust by Z adjust knob? Can you show me the video of axis Z movement? Thanks.

Regards,
ZhangZQ

http://www.vicious1.com/z-nut-lock/

The coupling nut is necessary, the spring and second nut is not. they are used for a crude anti backlash/slop remover.

The z adjust knob adjust the height of the z axis.

It will all make sense when you get it assembled.

I just finished assembling your MPCNC and it really looks awesome! Many thanks for sharing. Regarding Z tower I installed the upper coupling nut with the spring and the second nut as you advised on your website at http://www.vicious1.com/z-nut-lock/ and the Z carriage seems to flow with a slight friction due perhaps to the many bearing used, so when I move the Z axis up and down with the software the Z axis motor heats up so much as if it have to make a greater force than the one for the movement that has to fulfill to the Z carriage. I hope I was clear in the description of this issue, any help is really appreciated.

loosen up the spring or take it out completely

Allted, thanks, your project is very great. It is more clear for me to install the z-nut-lock part, but I still don't understand the usage of the spring and the nut, however I will install it first, And I still don't know how the z adjust knob to adjust the height of the z axis.

Did anyone use petg to print the parts?

Nov 7, 2015 - Modified Nov 7, 2015
Director - in reply to Scenz

PETG is now my goto plastic for mechanical assemblies. I started out with PLA and some ABS but after I got a spool of PETG from the Microcenter I printed the rest of the Z assembly in it including Allted's newer Middle_Z_rigid, all of Camar0's Rigid_Middle_Z assembly and my Makita tool holder. PETG has excellent interlayer bonding, has the flexibility of ABS and does not have the brittleness of PLA. It warps less than ABS but I did have had one part pop off the build plate due to insufficient contact area. I suggest an 80C build plate, Aquanet hairspray and a 4mm brim. Also a bit of aluminum foil can help to keep the chamber warmer depending on your printer. I did some destructive testing of some PLA and PETG parts and the PETG was much stronger. It interestingly does not break apart on layer boundaries but seems to tear apart randomly. PETG does string a lot so you need to keep your nozzle clean or it will accumulate globs of black plastic. All my parts were printed with 0.3mm layers on a Kickstarter Robo3D.
-SteveC

How stiff was the PETG after you printed it? I'm not sure if it will be rigid enough. My taz 5 warps ABS like it's going out of style and PLA doesn't work for crap in it.

Allted - in reply to Scenz

That is my favorite material but you need to make sure you are getting no warping and the dimensions are good.

5 parts to print and I will got it ^)

I want to make full video assembly instruction on my YouTube channel, can I do it? of course I will give all your links. And video'll be for Russian speakers.

Please do! Many have tried, no one has done it yet. We did get one time lapse, that was pretty good.

Ok, hope I will have everything I need to next weekend.

Channel name, please)

nice project, has anyone try this as a laser cutter instead of cnc?

This is the best cnc design i think i've seen. just amazing! i am now a fan, thanks so much!!!! :D

Thank you!
Give it a try.

ok, so i am using simplify 3dand the base of my prints, using PLA, are the correct dimensions and measurements, but as it builds up, the Z gets smaller. The top of a 20mm calibration cube measures 20mm across the bottom of the X axis and 19.35mm across the top of the x axis. the bottom of the Y axis 20mm and the top is 18.35mm. the Z axis measured on the X axis side is 20mm, and pretty close to 20mm (+-.15mm). it looks like its building a pyramid.

I've printed all my bits using S3D v3.02 without the issue you're experiencing. I suggest performing some calibration prints first. There's also known issues with S3D v3+ so troll the S3D forum and make sure you've got all your settings correct. The biggest problem is to do with retraction.
https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewforum.php?f=9&sid=88e38dfa4a602a1f9873c18146652a74
https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=3536&hilit=retraction

One of two things could be wrong. Either slow down your print, or go a few degrees hotter on your extruder.

ok, now all of a sudden i have max temp error. it has been fine up till now, but now my extruder is shooting up super hot? checked all the wires, they seem fine. firmware hasn't been changed?

Thermistor problem

i figured it was the thermister. it's brand new. so can i jump it like you did with the resistor, or do i have to have it to get the correct temps on the hotend?

Have to have it. Check it for resistance. its either broken wire, wire is shorted, or therm is shot. Did you check to make sure it is in the hole?

can i repace the thermister with a thermocoupler? will it still work the same or would it need gcode edits? i have a spare thermocoupler, but no extra thermisters

You have a 1 in 13 chance you won't need to edit your firmware.

So, 1 in 13 chance it will work with a thermocouple instead of the thermistor? I'm ordering new thermistor just in case, but wanted to test it with a thermocouple to be sure that is the issue. Seems to have good resistance and it was mounted correctly, so I'm assuming it's a bad thermister. It's odd because it printed the wrapped calibration cube, then I went to print another and the heaters spiked.

There are 13 temperature settings in the firmware, Or something like that. Plug in your thermocouple and see what reading it gives you. If it is wrong you need to figure out what to change it too.

The thermistor checks out good. No shorts or grounds that I can find. I'm wondering if something in simplify3d changed the firm ware orgcodes. I switched back to repetier and reflashed and edited the firmware and the heaters still kick on and shoot uo as soon as they are plugged in. I get max temp error on the lcd screen now too. Any suggestions?

So I took everything apart and rewired it. Re flashed the correct firmware. Even put all new stepper drivers on. I plug in the usb, the little green light flashes. But when I plug power in, the red heater led comes on immediately, and the black chips right about them get super hot. I unplugged the heater and the led still comes on, but those chips don't get hot anymore. The only thing I changed before this happened was using simplify 3d. I printed the test cube using s3d and when I went to start another I noticed the temp was sky rocketing. I unplugged it and an here looking for answers?

If you post these questions in the forums you would have a better chance of faster help. No one sees these questions other than me on thingiverse. No one is reading through 1000+ comments.

i'll get into the forums now. thanks

you blew mosfet somehow. Change the board type and use a different port for your hot end. Usually happens if you accidentally ground the metal tab on the mosfet.

Sorry I has been busy I answer as soon I possibly can.

Make sure you cover your ramps set.

Hello:
I have a problem, put the zero position in the left corner, in front of me, and when I try to move, it seems that the engines continue pulling -0, I see no way to change it.
Please someone help me, I'm already tired of searching the web and see nothing.
Thank you.
Sorry for the translation but with Google, is not English.

Allted - in reply to mgg_1

Not sure what you mean. You want it to go the other way?
http://www.vicious1.com/reversing-the-axis-direction/

Do you have to change anything in the software to work it as cnc or laser engraver?

Nov 2, 2015 - Modified Nov 3, 2015
Director - in reply to mogey336

I think that one small change needs to be made in the Marlin firmware to get a PWM TTL signal out to control the laser. The RAMPS's unused printer fan PWM output pin is used to control the On/Off state and intensity of the laser though the laser's "TTL" input. The default for the fan pin is a transistor driving 12V between connector P3 and P4. This needs to be switched in the firmware to a TTL output like D4 on the SERVO 4 connector. Changing the motherboard #define in the Configuration.h file to this should remap the fan output to the SERVO 4 connector:
"#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_13_EEB"
Note that I have not tried this yet. Others please chime in if other changes are needed or I messed this up.

That was on the firmware side. Some work must be also done on the gcode generation. To control the fan output pin the gcode command "M106 PWMvalue" needs to be inserted into your gcode by a post processor. Forum user ductsoup is working on a Python script to do this post processing on Inkscape generated gcode (http://www.vicious1.com/forums/topic/laser-gcode/).

I pasted my long winded comment here: http://www.vicious1.com/forums/topic/laser-add-on/ if anyone wants to add to the discussion.
-SteveC

http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M106:_Fan_On
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/Release/Marlin/Configuration.h
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/Release/Marlin/boards.h
http://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/f/f6/RAMPS1.4schematic.png

Nothing in the firmware. You can use different software to generate your gcode, but do not have too. I do not have a laser, yet, so I couldn't recommend software.
I am still unsure of what laser to spend my money on.

Thanks for your fast reply
I'm printing the parts now and i have a question
Why The X and Y steppers are wired in parallel?
The power supply 12v 5A Adapter For LED strip in the parts list for Arduino only or for Arduino and ramps 1.4?
i downloaded the software from https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin do i need to change it or it is already modified?

You should have a look at vicious1.com. All of these questions are answered there.

The other option to drive 2 steppers is a breakout board and its unnecessary, or in series.

12v5A in enough to power everything and a hot stepper and heater. The only time you need a lot of power is heated beds.

Pre-made firmware on the site under, marlin. The edits are list here and on vicious1.

FInally, thaks to allted and his fast responses, i got this beast running and printing. Tweaking a little now to get some solid pretty prints. Question, has anyone thought, or done a polishing on the gantry rails? just thinking about making it smoother

Mine have polished themselves with use. hahaha, the zinc coating comes of rather quickly and leaves a nice smooth path. My first/oldest machine is now printing the most incredibly smooth parts. I have no idea if my second machine will turn out that way but the parts are honestly the best FDM printed parts I have ever seen. I'll post some pictures in the forum this afternoon.

I am not much of a complainer but something really made me upset. The USB cable you supplied with your kit seems to be faulty. I used it with one of my laptops using the CNC, which worked great, and every time I plugged in the usb cable my touchpad would stop working so I had to unplug it every time I wanted to move my mouse, and I really didn't think anything bad at the time. About a week later after doing several different jobs on my CNC my computer wouldn't recognize an arduino anymore, none of my arduinos worked with the computer and the computer was using the neccessary driver files. After the next few weeks I used the same cable to program my other arduinos and the arduinos didn't do what my programs specified, so I looked over the program several times and couldn't find an error. I even did a simple program like digitalwrite one port HIGH and wait 2 seconds and turn it off and wait 10 seconds. It seems that the HIGH/LOW is swapped that it turns on a digital port when it is in LOW and turns it off when it is HIGH. I thought that it was the computer I was using so I did the same thing on another computer with a different arduino that didnt have that problem and it did the SAME thing. I even tried a different usb cable and it did the same thing. I then realized that it had to be the USB cable ruining my arduinos and my computers usb ports since it wont even recognize a usb flashdrive anymore. I had 5 working arduinos and it ruined 4. They still work if I use HIGH for off and LOW for on but do this weird sequence first when the arduino starts up randomly changing the values of the digital ports every second for about 5 seconds and then it stops. I ruined one of my arduino nanos by plugging it in to the computer that had the faulty usb ports(big mistake) then I realized that it didn't work anymore. I am wondering if one of the 5 volt wires are touching the data cable sending 5 volts to my arduino and sending 5 volts to the computer(which has a protection against that but after a few hours of the cable being connected to the computer it ruined it, knowing that the protection can only protect it for so long until it's dead. I am not 100% positive this is the issue, It could just be an compatiblility issue between the computer and the arduino, but I dont think this is true because I used a different arduino and a different computer and the same cable and it had the same exact problem. I am really upset about this.

I'm sorry you are having these issues. I don't test every cable anymore because I have never found a bad one. I do use them throughout the batch to program with and switch every 5 boards or so. These have actually outlasted the other cables I used to use that were longer. I have never heard of an arduino failing with reverse logic. You could do a quick continuity check to see if it is actually the cable.
You said this one worked initially? Even If I had tested that cable it would have worked fine then, I don't know how else I can test them. I use these cables myself and trust them.
I am sorry this happened to you, what do you think I should I do to make this right?

I had this same problem before but it ended up ruining the entire arduino board. I put power in the voltage input pin on the arduino while having it connected to my computer so 2 different power being put into the board ruined it (it started smoking around the usb connector on the arduino). I noticed that you have the power supply powering the arduino board and it is required to plug in the usb cable to your computer so additional power is being put on the board. Maybe seperating the power of the ramps board and the arduino or just putting cables in the kits that have the ground and the data wire without the +5v wire. I could be wrong, the arduino may be able to support voltage input and usb input at the same time but I am just telling from my own experience. I did use a voltage meter on the cable and found that 2 of the conductors had high resistance to eachother telling me that 2 of the conductors are in partial contact. I also did the same thing to a cable that worked and it didnt have any reading at all telling me that the cable is truely defective. I believe that the cable was either defective when I got it or was fine when I got it and through hours of use with 2 different ways of powering the arduino board were on it could have partially melted the conductors in the usb cable and caused a connection. I understand that you don't manufacture the cables nor do you have time to examine every cable you have, but I write this to tell you "Hey, something went wrong". I don't care about the the usb ports on my computer since it is owned by my school so they will have to fix it but I am still really upset about my arduinos being bad.

I pre wire the power supply so you can not plug it into the wrong port. That power absolutely has to be there for the system to run. I am doing nothing different from any other 3D printer on the market. If you are having power issues you should look into a lcd screen add on. It would be the safe option for you.
The power to the ramps is separate from the arduino, is it possible you set the board on a conductive surface?
As far as I know usb needs all 4 wires, and your computer should have overload protection. I have programmed literally thousands of ramps kits through my laptop at a previous job and have never fried a usb port. Please understand there is a possibility that this is not my fault.
A resistance test is not the same as a continuity test high resistance could mean a bad connection, has nothing to do with a short.
Every wire should have resistance.

I am not sure what to do to help you. The issue I am having is you said everything worked initially, meaning what I sent worked. after that anything could have happened. I do not want you to be unsatisfied, but I feel I did everything in my power to ensure you received a working product.
Is there anything you feel I did wrong?

I understand that there isn't anything you did wrong. What I was saying was there wasn't a bad connection that 2 seperate conductors inside the cable were in partial contact causing some resistance between 2 seperate wires. What I mean by resistance is the resistance reading from my voltage meter. I used the resistance tester on my voltage meter instead of the continuity tester since I have a cheap voltage meter and the continuity tester doesn't work well and sometimes doesn't work at all. There shouldn't be any resistance reading on my voltage meter between the 2 seperate wires. I know that my voltage meter isn't giving a false reading because I have tested another cable that works just fine and it didn't show anything at all. I really believe this to be a defective cable. I understand that my computer has an overload protection but after several hours of being plugged in it could fail. Also, would you know of the brand that makes your usb cables, it would be very much appriciated.

Dec 18, 2015 - Modified Dec 18, 2015
3dEz - in reply to Justin1

Justin1
Arduinos have notoriously flimsy 5V regulators that converts the voltage delivered by the Ramps board. You probably did no ruined the whole arduino, just the 5V regulator on the Arduino board (this is a very common issue). On my prusa I just disconnected the diode on the Ramps board that supplies the input voltage to the Arduino 5V regulator and powered the Arduino with an External 5V supply (via spliced USB cable). Some people did creative soldering of a more capable 5V regulator on the Arduino board. Also, if the resettable 5V fuse on the Arduino board is shorted at any point in time it may never recover to a low resistance state (hence underpowering the Arduino). Good news is, if you separate the 5V supply as I describe above you can resuscitate the "ruined" boards (i.e. if the problem was just the regulator of fuse).

Well I tried to do some aluminum today, My z axis has way to much slop in it (not rigid enough). Kinda bummed out.

What was your spindle, depth of cut, feed speed, bit diameter, distance from the gantry, what kind of aluminum?
Did you see my most recent aluminum video?

dw660, .3mm, 5mm/s, 1/8" 3 flute, and probably too far, not sure why I built it so tall (6" z), must have been thinking multi use (3d printer). I'm sure that's what caused such poor results. But even with the z fully retracted I can get a significant amount of play by hand.

6" is really far. Raise the workpiece as high as possible and for your first metal cut try a depth of. 1mm and maybe slow it down. Then work your way up. I've had practice. And my machine is 24x30. In my vid you can seei start fully retracted, and my ceter is snugged up real good

Oct 31, 2015 - Modified Oct 31, 2015
makerfitchie - in reply to Allted

Ya, I'll have to try that, I'm only slightly larger than you 27x35. I'll have to lower the machine legs, would shortening the Z axis help any with rigidity. It's the gantry that's "twisting" and not the tubes bending.

From the video it looks like your better middle z is flexing. Adding rigidity may help.

Tighten up the gantry bolts and just raise the workpiece, I have mine on a stack of wood in the vid. Don't rebuild it. The less the z axis hangs down the shorter the lever arm is to twist the gantry. Mine is in good shape and I would not cut any faster. I was pushing the limits of my machine.

I'm not sure if you can see the movement in this video but this is my issue, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1314dYiBd4

Looks like your z is loose. the long 3" bolts tension this. Are you using the better middle z parts? There will always be some flex, a better way to check is use 1 finger in the tip of your cutting bit. That is where this will flex from, and it will give you a very realistic feel for what it takes to move the z axis.

I have since tightened the 3" bolts, what I would call significantly, I could still do more but I'm concerned about over tightening them. It cleaned up I would say 40-50% of the slop. I'm running a cut right now with .2 DOC and 2.5mm/s, I wasn't able to raise the work peice as much as I would have liked so if I get closer to 0 I may be able to increase speed back to 5mm/s, seems to be going good. Other than really slow. :(.

And that whole middle assembly is a balance, tightening the other middle end and middle joiner tension bolts will help as well but you really need to pay attention to what it is doing to the ease of movement. I tighten them up for cutting and dial them back a bit for printing.

The first cut that breaks the surface is usually the worst. If that sounded good and the rest is going well bump up one of those numbers, probably the speed. That DOC is okay to me, the speed should be able to go up a bit. A finished slow cut is better than no cut. You were about to rebuild, now your cutting aluminum..win win.

The first cut was still ugly, Not as bad as the first attempt for sure!

ok, the monster machine is alive, moving. extruding for now, next step is to mount it. i have the board cut, and will build the table tomorrow. question for ya'll, how are you mounting it to your tables? just screwing it down through the holes in the feet once its square? FYI AllTed is awesome. thank you for putting up with me through this build, and not only answering my emails, but doing so fast and answering all my silly questions. (I will be ordering a dewalt and some bits asap, really want to try some milling and routing, and want to add a laser to try some cutting as well. super stoked about this thing and the possibilities.

It's Alive!!!!!!!

I usually mount mine with a screw in each corner. I did a little setup on the assembly page on the site. http://www.vicious1.com/assembly/

ok, so i got it all mounted, and started the first test print with the MK8 extruder. and it looks like crap.seems like the extruder isn't feeding. almost like it is too weak to feed the filament. i set the pot at .9. any suggestions

If you use the forum and post some pictures, that would make this easier.

What material are you printing with and what temperature are you using?

for some reason i am locked out of the forums. i'll reset my login info tomorrow. I am using PLA, translucent yellow maker brand. Temp is set to 225 since that is what printed at in my makerbot. THe issue seems to be that the stepper motor doesn't spin enough to push the filament. it tries, but don't have enough torque it seems. i have the Pot on the driver set at .9v. i have this http://www.ebay.com/itm/261975444746?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT extruder that i think my driver, the A4988 is the issue, since you use the 8825. this is what i had on hand. i will pick one up from my local guy tomorrow if he has one, if not, i'll order one from you.

Followed it to a t with the exception of also using a small washer behind the bearing. it has to be a difference in the driver. i'll have to look somewhere to find the formula to see if i can crank this one up enough to get it working. i also ordered a new one that is identical to the drivers you use. so should be here in a few days.

Oct 31, 2015 - Modified Oct 31, 2015
Allted - in reply to Jimmystanley37

Your driver is fine you don't need another one, you just need to set it properly.
I can't give you a voltage, they all seem to be different. one of mine takes twice the power as the other. You need to test yours.

Did the washer misalign the drive pulley causing friction? I couldn't find a washer small enough. Is your metal funnel up and the ptfe side down?

yea, it is lined up good, i am going to retweak it tonight after all the kids are done trick or treating. happy holloween everyone

Pretty sure your driver is set wrong. I can use up to .9 on the 8825's and I know the formula is different. Try turning it up until it flows right, then make sure the extruder stepper doesn't get too hot. It should get warm though.

Anyone else having issues slicing the Roller F? using Slic3r 1.2.9 with 55% infill and after 1.5 hours of slicer working I just gave up and canceled it. All other parts printed without issue. I'm seeing errors like "Unable to close this loop having x points.", anyone have ideas?

using Solidoodle 3/Repetier-Host. I'm still 2 weeks out from my hardware order from China, so I have time to troubleshoot.

Oct 29, 2015 - Modified Oct 29, 2015
Director - in reply to TychoTheBuilder

I just sliced that stl with Slic3r 1.2.9 (called from Repetier-Host V1.5.4) and at 0.3mm it took 30s and at 0.1mm it took 1m 20s. You can try netfab but I wonder if something else is a problem. You can also skip Repetier-Host and invoke Slic3r directly.

Oct 29, 2015 - Modified Oct 29, 2015
Camar0 - in reply to TychoTheBuilder

Mine sliced/printed okay. Try sending it to Microsoft netfabb cloud for a repair and see if that helps.
https://modelrepair.azurewebsites.net

Meshmixer might be able to help also.

You just made my day! Never heard of MS netfab site, it fixed the issue! Thank you!

If I had internet points, I'd give you some.

Hey Allted, jut thought I would let you know that I have posted a couple of pictures of a test run of a 2 sided milling job of a shock tower for an R/C monster truck. Extremely happy with the results. Holes line up nicely. Used registration pins to get the job done.

http://www.thingiverse.com/make:158621

Mostly Printed CNC / MultiTool -Updated 5/25/16-

Nice work
Is there a circuit diagram for the electronics?

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getting stoked almost done my printing just and only a few parts left waiting on shipping! dewalt 660 is what I am going to use.

@Allted,

It's an awesome design. Is it possible that you can share the CAD files that we can modify in case?

I'm not ready to do that yet. Maybe if I do a redesign.

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Hey there looking for some 3D printing help (printing these parts though) I would love to re-print my middle parts at or close to 100% infill but it's super important the middle has no curling and whenever I print anything above 80% infill (pla, 60c heated bed, & build tak) I get some pretty intense curling. I tried a raft with no luck. Any ideas?

In my experience, buildtak doesn't last very long. Probably time to change it out.
Blue tape or purple aquanet hairspray has always worked very well for me. When I use the heated bed for PLA I only heat it to 35-40C maybe your too high and its keeping it soft.

Oct 14, 2015 - Modified Oct 14, 2015

Hi Allted, excellent work. Here in my country the conduit diameters are crazy. There's no metric options, only imperial. The 3/4" conduit is 19mm OD (and not 23.5). The other option is a 1" conduit (25.4mm OD). What you think, can I print the IE version (25mm conduit) to use with 1" OD conduit ? This 0.4mm diference will be a problem ? Thanks for help.

0.4 is my same IE problem. i have IE with 25.4 some tensions on assembly

The IE version should be okay. Maybe a bit snug but i think it will be fine.

So I'll start to print today :) Thank you very much.

Has anyone thought of using extra conduit as legs? I am planning on hanging my unit on the wall. Its about 32x42. I was imagining something like the feet holders for the main structure but want a way to fold these down. Appreciate any thoughts.

These use conduit, but do not fold. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:902483
You could just use it on the wall, For most uses it could actually be used that way. Vertical use has the benefit of almost self clearing of the milling chips/debris.

-OLD- Mostly Printed CNC -Add On- LEG
by Allted

as soon as i put my Z axis pipes in it makes the center not square :(

I think I'm going to have to reprint the to Z joiners again with +1% or 2% increase... maybe 0.5%

That is not a good idea unless your printer is not calibrated correctly. The middle pieces use all surfaces as work surfaces scaling them would make it worse. Try loosening all the bolts, all of them. Put it back together and then tighten them all a little bit at a time, until snug not tight.

So got my machine running and just trying to do a simple vector graphic drawing. I setup a tool in estlcam for the pen and set the speed at 100mm/s, when I run the job it appears to be running at about 100mm/m. I am using the same steppers as you and have the 3 jumpers installed under each driver. I've gone over everything and I am missing something but not sure what. Probably in the firmware but I used the firmware from your site.

Have a quick run through of the estlcam settings on vicious1.com. Something changed in the last update I think. Make sure the export is in mm/min. http://www.vicious1.com/estlcam-basics/

Yup, that was exactly the problem! Thanks Allted. 100mm/s appears to be to fast for my machine however, had some weird missed steps. Appeared to be caused by the belts as I could see them vibrating during the rapid movement. Would that be a signal of belts that are too tight or too loose?

Nothing to do with the belts. Start with something a little more useful like 20mm/s and go up from there.

Thanks for the help Allted, here is my first solid run with the MPCNC https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHp2fsxu7_4

I added the video to the website. Looks pretty smooth.

It's pretty good but I do have some slight binding from how tight the bearings are on the conduit still. I am hoping that that will "smooth/wear" out as the machine starts to get used. When the machine is free moved I get some slight clicking from the bearings at various spots. It may require a purchase of better bearings as well, but I could say no to $20 for 60 608-RS2's

These are not $1000 rods and bearings. It won't feel perfect but it should cut just fine.

I realize that for sure, Will be trying for a first cut today!

How dimensions in the tube to have a buid volume of 80x60cm? There are about 20 cm of trash in X and Y ?

About 25cm.
GeoDave made a nice calculator, http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:948320

Mostly Printer CNC / Multitool Layout Size Calculator
by GeoDave

Excellent work! Do you think this would be able to cut through 3.x mm carbon fiber?

Sep 30, 2015 - Modified Sep 30, 2015
Allted - in reply to antpgomes

Yup no problem. I need to put this answer in a FAQ. I have a feeling you're going to go through bits faster than you would with other materials but they aren't that expensive.

Has anyone had a hard time putting the bearing inside the z mount? I think the mount might be a little bit too small

you just gotta want it ;) you want it snug but if you can't fit it just give it a little sanding.

I was wondering if you could maybe provide some insight, I think I fried my arduino during my first few testing attempts tonight. I had previously made a bunch of manual moves via repetier. I then used estlcam to create a basic tool path, ran the gcode and realized it was extremely slow (now that I think of it it seemed much slower than the 20mm/s in estlcam), killed the job and changed to 100mm/s and promptly had a thermal shutdown by the drivers. killed power to the 12v and unplugged usb. Started trying to figure out how to loosen up the CNC as it does require good force to move by hand. At one point I was moving x by hand rapidly. Is it possible this action could have damaged the Arduino as now the arduino appears dead.

Moving the axis by hand does generate power, usually not enough to harm anything. If you were really moving it around fast, than I'm sure some damage could ave been done. I would assume only to the driver on the axis you were messing with, but I can not say for sure. Did you kill only the power supply? I'm sure it doesn't like power coming in the wrong way.

I should have said removed the 12v power from the ramps and disconnected usb. A little more digging and I have found that the mega will not power up from the 12v, only from the usb and even then the usb controller on the mega gets really hot and does not detect. I'm going to have to order a new mega I guess.

On a lighter note, It seems most of my stiffness is coming from the tool gantry, I decided to try warming it up with a heat gun to "relieve" the pressure effectively causing the binding and that seems to have worked quite nicely.

Oct 1, 2015 - Modified Oct 1, 2015
norm8332 - in reply to makerfitchie

In my experience this usually this means the 5 volt regulator on the Mega 2560 is blown. I have blown a couple before. The regulators can be replaced if you are handy with a soldering iron. Look here: http://www.instructables.com/id/Fix-a-fried-Arduino-Mega/

Regulators: http://www.ebay.com/itm/10X-AMS1117-5-0-5V-LDO-SOT-223-Voltage-Regulator-10Pcs-SHIP-TODAY-New-/181861073695?hash=item2a57c3c31f

Thanks for the tip norm!, sadly that does not appear to be the only problem. The "on" led comes on red when on USB but nothing when powered via regulator. I tried removing the regulator as suggested in the instructable but no change in behaviour. No big deal it was a $13 "counterfeit" board so I'm not out the $75 that a genuine would have cost me. I have another "brand" of compatible coming via Prime tomorrow.

Glad it wasn't an expensive one..Its most likely still the regulator. The instructable one was shorted, yours is probably open circuit. But if its a cheap one and you have a new one on the way then it doesn't matter..

Ya, I'm glad it wasn't a genuine board... Should be back up at testing tomorrow night! and with the cnc rolling easily now it'll be calibration time.

Is there any photos or diagrams to show exactly how the electrical wires are run from each motor? I can see that they run from the stepper into the conduit pipe but am confused as to where they come out/how they connect with the others without getting in way of the moving X & Y axis.

You can see what I have in the main picture on this page. It goes in the tube on the side you can see and comes out the other. I zip tie the wires together at the far end and leave a lot of slack and zip tie it to the corner block as well. It's all personal preference.

For the electronics, am I correct in understanding that the 2 x motors are in parallel to each other (so they move in opposite but equal magnitude) and the 2 y motors are in parallel?

And how do the endstops work?

Yup, both in parallel. http://www.vicious1.com/forums/topic/wiring-diagram-case/#post-3081

I do not recommend using end stops in the beginning. If you decide to use them use min and max end stops and wire them in the Normally open position to work with the current firmware or normally closed if you want to be really safe but you will need to edit the firmware.

Im also very interested in what i need to get the LCD going i just got mine today.

What screen dp you have?
The directions are in the firmware. The little screen needs a line uncommented, the bigger one also needs a library added to you firmware.

i have the bigger one, could you be more specific where the instructions are? I got the Makita RT0700C ;) need to make a mount for it as the one that's made its for the US conduit.

In config.h in the firmware towards the bottom. Unfortunately you have to add the library to your arduino, I can't do it from my end. You can google your screen and the reprap wiki has it all laid out for you.

Sep 28, 2015 - Modified Sep 28, 2015
S7design - in reply to Allted

Got it working, but now i dont know if it is a faulty screen or a firm ware issue, see the 2 videos whats it doing. i can't scroll in menus and once it got stuck and just went crazy with out me touching it any further. I think it may be defective unit as it wa shipped to me in its own static prof bag and then just put in a plastic bag and sent, no padding what so ever... https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B97YYgjmlWKMMFF4VGwxVHdjbFE

Got it working, but now i dont know if it is a faulty screen or a firm ware issue, see the 2 videos whats it doing. i can't scroll in menus and once it got stuck and just went crazy with out me touching it any further. I think it may be defective unit as it wa shipped to me in its own static prof bag and then just put in a plastic bag and sent, no padding what so ever...

Sep 29, 2015 - Modified Sep 29, 2015
Allted - in reply to S7design

Looks like the button is stuck in. Turn the knob and push and pull the button to try and unstick it. Check to see if there is any solder bridging the terminals. There is a lot of sloppy soldering on the import parts. That's why I test all the electronics before I send anything out. I had a ramps board with only half the parts soldered on.

LOL that had to be fun. Well to me it seems that its soldered OK, no terminals are touching each other, i also played around with the button pulling on it and what not... is there a option to swap out the button? I did contact the buyer but he eint replying so i filed for a return and will order another one from a other seller

So if i want to add SD card reader and an LCD screen, what one do you recommend? i plan to setup a dedicated PC for this, but if i wanted to run it stand alone then i would need these add ons right?

Both screens do basically the same thing. The smaller one is easier to get working. The bigger one need an extra arduino library, and sometimes the knob is backwards, or the screen needs an added resistor.

Do you sell the screens? if so, what one is recommended?

I went ahead and ordered this one LCD Display Controller 12864 Full Graphic for RepRap RAMPS 1.4 3D Printer Prusa

Just to be clear on the LCD types. The smaller one also has a much bigger version called the XXL LCD. They have 4 lines of text and use the exact same firmware change in "configuration.h". The other is called the Full Graphics LCD and requires a different change in "configuration.h". I have the XXL on my printer and it is really nice. I have the Full Graphics one on my MPCNC and it works well but I think the display is kind of busy with a lot of unnecessary graphics. I have not used a dedicated PC for my printer or CNC in ages. The SD card is a more reliable and simpler way to feed the gcode.

Has someone used an trapezoidal thread instead of the standard threaded rod? Like this one: http://www.banggood.com/500mm-Lead-Screw-8mm-Thread-2mm-Pitch-Lead-Screw-with-Copper-Nut-p-982941.html?p=TZ2504841376201410EJ.

I know that they are more expensive than the normal one but these should have a much lower backlash.

Are you having a backlash issue with your z-axis?

I do not believe you will notice any difference except the price. The backlash on a threaded rod with a coupler nut is tiny, add a spring and another nut to pre-load and you should be in great shape. The ones you have linked have short brass nuts, they might actually have a larger backlash and you will have no way to pre-load it out unless you buy a second set just for the nuts.

If you agree to buy one and work on getting it working, I will as well. I see that many other cnc machines use this and would love to give it a try. Might have to cut down that brass nut though.

Well I wouldn't use the brass nut. I would make one nut myself out of POM. Then my z-axis shouldn't have any backlash. But at the moment i'm only planning my build. Maybe in two or three months i'm going to build it.

Has anyone found a good set of bits that are good for general use? I am not sure what to buy.

A inexpensive bit to get would be an 1/8th inch 2 flute end-mill. Get a few of these and from there you can get some specialized ones for what you plan on cutting, plastic, metal, wood, ect. I have a wood end-mill and it does seem to keep the cuts cleaner.

I get them from drillman1 on ebay but I'm not sure where you're located.

Hi Allted,

I have made your MP CNC. I try cutting something. (a circle stl file used on my 3d printer) but it is streched in one direction, like an oval.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Ben

A Lot of little things can cause this, should be easy. how much off are they? If it is only a tiny bit make sure you machine is square, if is a lot check the things below.

Using my firmware? If not make sure the x and y steps match in the firmware.

Same number of jumpers under the x and y drivers? This would cause large errors.

Same size pulleys on the x and y axis?

Hi Allted,

I am using your firmware, all pulleys are the same size and jumpers are the same under each driver. When I draw the circle it is approx. double the size on one axis. I have a picture, can I upload it some where for you?

Its driving me crazy!!!

Any other ideas??

Thanks again for your help.

Ben

Sounds like one of your axis is in 1/16th step mode for some reason. If you don't want to solder the board for a fix, I would just set both axis to 16th step mode and edit the firmware.

The jumpers need to be set differently, Take 2 jumpers off under the x and y axis. I believe you only need to leave the "1A" jumper on. In the firmware cut the X and Y steps in half, and re-upload.

You lose nothing by doing this. Most 3D printers use 16th steps.

Hi Allted,

You were correct!!. i have removed the jumpers except the last one and halved my steps in the firmware to 50.

I drew a 10mm line and measured it on both the x and y axis and it draws a 20mm line. Do I have to halve the steps again or is it running is 1/8 mode?

Thanks for your help.

Ben

What drivers are you using? Judging by the steps you are using the a49's. The jumpers are different for those.

Sep 30, 2015 - Modified Sep 30, 2015
benmyers - in reply to Allted

Wow fast reply.

I am using the drv8825 drivers.

Okay, put the single jumper on the other end of the set of 3,that should put you in 16th. D0, sorry I had a 50/50 chance and I took a guess.

Sep 30, 2015 - Modified Sep 30, 2015
benmyers - in reply to Allted
MODE0 MODE1 MODE2 Microstep Resolution
Low Low Low Full step
High Low Low Half step
Low High Low 1/4 step
High High Low 1/8 step
Low Low High 1/16 step - I currently have it set like this.
High Low High 1/32 step
Low High High 1/32 step
High High High 1/32 step
Sep 28, 2015 - Modified Sep 28, 2015

I used pla... My corner blocks have broken and my roller locks and one roller broke after tightening then down. It's like the hole size is too small for the conduit... Used 75% in fill at .26 as suggested

Orientation is also supper important with all these parts, just fyi. a corner block printed on it's size shouldn't break once you stick conduit through it. A corner block printed up and down will de-laminate quite quickly... trust me lol

Very important, the should all be printed as oriented in the previews here on thingiverse.

Didnt change any of them. Reprinted most of the parts needed last night. Between 2 printers its not that bad.

Sounds like you are going way too tight. Nothing on here should be more than snug. I am still using the original parts I printed. one of my corner blocks screw tabs are bent but I think I only used 2 perimeters on that one.

Ill make sure not to go so tight next time. Im curious to print out a remix of the roller cover and see if making them a tad longer will lessen the stress. Im going to be moving this thing around a lot so I need it to be sturdy.

Ill make sure not to go so tight next time. Im curious to print out a remix of the roller cover and see if making them a tad longer will lessen the stress. Im going to be moving this thing around a lot so I need it to be sturdy.

Ill make sure not to go so tight next time. Im curious to print out a remix of the roller cover and see if making them a tad longer will lessen the stress. Im going to be moving this thing around a lot so I need it to be sturdy.

Sep 27, 2015 - Modified Sep 27, 2015

Has anyone tried using the Rumba board with the mostly printed CNC? I think it might be able to give us a 2nd stepper driver for each of our 2 motors that are currently sharing a single stepper driver. Even with 5 drivers for the CNC (2X, 2Y, 1Z stepper drivers) it still has an E2 left for an extruder if we want to print or you could possibly use it to add a 4th axis. Even for the people using NEMA 17 this would double the X,Y torque back to its rated levels per motor. Also the motors would each be directly wired into the board which would be slightly simpler. It's $50 on eBay but it does come with the Arduino built in. I am not familiar with how to enable or pair the E0, E1, or E2 to another axis though which is why I am asking.

Allted - in reply to

My 76oz/in steppers are running at full power, with plenty of room for more on the drivers. I wouldn't mind using an extra driver each, but that increases the cost as well. There are a few creative ways to add drivers to the ramps which I had planned on initially only to find out it wasn't needed. Are you having power/torque issues?

A lot of the decisions I made on the design of this were cost and diminishing returns, this is one of them

But to answer your question, the rumba will work, no problem.

I have the mostly of materials and the last is print! :-D Have any one print in PETG? I think is bether than PLA in this project, I am right?

I used PETG from the Microcenter for a Makita mount and the corner block top clamps. It works really well at 0.3mm/layer. Much stronger and more flexible than PLA. It will not delaminate at all and will crack randomly through the layers before it delaminates. It does not warp anywhere nearly as bad as ABS. It can warp a bit and pop off the build plate depending on the part geometry and plate contact area. I suggest Aquanet type hairspray on a cold bed then heated to 80C for printing. For temperamental geometries I use a brim and aluminum foil loosely on the open sides of the printer to keep in the heat.
SteveC

Petg is awesome! Sometimes you get minor curling, but its easy to look out for.

Sep 26, 2015 - Modified Sep 26, 2015

Is the original firmware hosted somewhere?

I tried "Marlin_16_32_090615" but couldn't do much due to the temp error, then I tried "Marlin_16_32_083015_THERM" everything seemed to at least work again. Ran some saved G-code through the MPCNC and it failed twice one time digging my Dewalt deep into my table?

When you state "This is for 32nd stepping, 16 Tooth Pulleys and 5/16″ threaded rod." I'm confused does that mean the configuration has already been updated for those characteristics or something else?
This is what was in the firmware hosted

default settings

define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {200,200,4535.44,200}
define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {9000, 9000, 120, 25}
define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {700,700,90,800}

define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 700
define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 800

define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_X {0.0, 20.00}
define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_Y {0.0, 5.00}

define DEFAULT_XYJERK 4
define DEFAULT_ZJERK 0.4
define DEFAULT_EJERK 5.0

Gcode that used to work: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7-z7FYF-0QHRlMyM0dLa2dxTEk/view?usp=sharing

The updated firmware with the "therm" is just updated accelerations and changed extruder steps. The numbers mean that is preset for 32nd stepping on the drivers for drv8825, 16 tooth pulleys and 5/16th rod for the z axis. some people are using other drivers and/or metric z threaded rod.

If you gcode is failing in different places it might be your repetier, is you computer going to sleep?

I don't remember putting in those extruder offsets? Did you change those?

Sep 27, 2015 - Modified Sep 27, 2015
Humanisticnick - in reply to Allted

I think i figured it out.

This is whats on your site at the top of the firmware section:
DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {400, 400, 5, 25} (think I can bump these up)
DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {800,800,80,800} (might turn these down)
DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 800 (maybe lower)

However in the config.h file in the "THERM" firmware file its:
DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {9000, 9000, 120, 25}
DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {700,700,90,800}
DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 700

Again, I'm a noob in this file but I'm thinking the main issue for me is the Max Acceleration on the Z going up in the new version, not down. My DW660 is super loud so I did a dry "reprint" on my gcode and you could see the z axis pausing during spinning and making a noise. Didn't seem normal.

I changed my values to:
DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {200,200,4535.44,760*1.1}
DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {400, 400, 5, 25}
DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {700,700,70,800}
DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 700

and my dry run ran better but it's too late to try a real cut. I'll give a go tomorrow and let you know. Just FYI
Also could part of my problem be that the ~46oz/inch stepper on the Z is just having a hard time with the DW660?

I'm not sure when those max numbers come into play except homing the machine. Make sure your plunge rate is low. Pretty sure once it is running it is all about the plunge rate. I am still unpacking and can't test that yet. But I have been using those numbers since I put that firmware up.

46/0z/in should be fine, it has a huge mechanical advantage on the z axis. Double check there is nothing on the threaded rod and it is lubed up, the anti-backlash isn't too tight. Z axis is more fiddle than the others.

No I didn't change anything. I'm not a firmware guru, I'd just like to flash the same thing that you had on it when I got the board from you originally

Sep 27, 2015 - Modified Sep 27, 2015

I think I just must have cut off a gypsy one day in traffic and got a cnc curse lol.

https://youtu.be/wHiYJtVk4hw

slow down you z plunge rate a bunch and try again. It is moving pretty fast.

I think I figured it out.

1st) Update seemed to have too much excel for my z crashed bit
2nd) Fixed speeds (this is in video) but first fail loosened up lock nut so with the plunge rate high made the z axis fall

I've been working on some beefier mounts for the Dewalt so I was going to need to fiddle with the z axis again soon. Going to replace my coupler (with another printed one but I have ordered a metal one for like $1 from china) as it has cracks, going to be cleaning and lightly lubing the threaded rod, printing a new lock nut, etc.

How big of a deal is backlash with the 5/16, you mentioned somewhere else we could also just try a long 5/16th nut?

Careful the metal ones do not fit the 5/16ths rods perfectly. I have used a wrap of a soda can on them to shim them up.
I have used a long coupler nut and noticed no difference.

I can make a z nut lock with a sort of set screw in it that might solve your dropping issue, if there is room and the screw won't interfere with the travel.

I'm calling it quits for the night as it's 11:45 here and I have work tomorrow. I got the z off and got the new coupler on. Replaced another corner block.

If you'd be willing what i'd basically like is the ability to get ride of the anti-backlash setup (which I understand is working for everyone else) and just whip up a solution that just completely holds the included long 5/16th nut captive top and bottom. I'm sure I can figure it out stumbling around in tinkercad for a couple hours but if you have anything in mind I will print and test.

This gave me the opportunity to at least print and test my DW660 mount at least, 3rd print/design worked
https://goo.gl/photos/NSSZEV3DdkPPLcYw5

Serious question, what color combo should i use for this build. I am 17 days from going home, and so excited to start this build. I have an idea of Purple and yellow? what would you all like to see?

How about a patriotic theme, red, white, and blue.

That actually sounds like a plan.

Sep 23, 2015 - Modified Sep 23, 2015

video using dwp611 https://youtu.be/CeIE3S4ViJE

Added that to the website, impressive for sure.
Thanks for sharing

I realise this would require quite a redesign, but would there be any advantages in going with square tubing instead of round when it comes to rigidity/stability? I was thinking about using square tubes rotated at a 45 degree angle with bearings running on three or all four sides. Eccentric spacers can then be used to "snug-fit" the carriages.

With properly designed carriages this could also enable you to support the square tube with something like a two-by-four with a v-slot routed on top of it which should remove any flexing issues for larger builds.

4 bearings at each point instead of 3. 8-10 eccentric expensive spacers. Mostly cost and no wants to adjust a bunch of eccentricthey are built in with the flex of plastic. Round is more rigid than square, think roll cages.
2x4's and vgooves wouldn't be an ideal replacement.
Larger builds is a relative term here. Comparing prive vs volume we are doing quite well as is.

I see, thanks for the feedback Allted. Round it is :-)

Sep 18, 2015 - Modified Sep 18, 2015

Have completed the prints and put everything together. Now the middle mount seems to run smooth when all is assembled. Now i got stuck with the wiring. Im have no clue about electronics :) so the diagram you pun on here i don't get. I did it based on this picture http://forums.reprap.org/file.php?151,file=5418,filename=zseries.png and one motor goes one way and the other the other way then found this diagram http://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/images/d/d1/Steppers_Parallel_and_Series_2.png and did it like the right imag, now the motors only jerk back and forward not even turning...
can you pls make a diagram for us dumb asses :) like the first link showing the 1A, 2A 1B 2B positions and what wire colors goes where
thanks

Yeah that shapeoko pic is what it would look like if you flipped the entire plug over, that works but seems to confuse everyone. there are some pics in here but you need to be signed in to see them. http://www.vicious1.com/forums/topic/wiring-diagram-case/
this pic, does that help? http://i.imgur.com/wUiAuJx.png its really hard to do a proper write up on this because the colors are always different. You need to do it in pairs.

so the 1 2 3 4 are markings for the 4 pin connector on the ramps, going from left to right? so my steppers have red blue green and black wire, but all 4 wire put in single opening so i cant make out the order except if going with the order on the Shapeoko pic. So looking at your picture and my color combo i would have to connect: pin 1 to M1(top one) blue M2 red,pin 2 to M1 red M1 blue,pin 3 to M1 green M2 green and pin 4 to M1 black M2 black ?

Wait, you just got this from me correct? My new steppers already have the end on them, that means theyre in order. Before you cut the ends off just make note of what order they're in.
I will have premade wiring harness is done in the next two weeks I'm sorry I couldn't get them done sooner

I just got one from you. Still sitting in the box till Oct 11th. Can't wait to get the parts printed and build this thing.

Lots of printing ahead...but worth it.

Have you tried printed over the entire build area of one of these? Also, how do you have your filament setup to feed to the extruder?

No I have no real interest in large prints. I have no patience for that, way to many opportunities for something to go wrong and a ton of time gets wasted. I rarely print more than 1 part at a time. I want fast and now.

I will be hanging the filament over the top from a rod.

Sep 20, 2015 - Modified Sep 20, 2015
S7design - in reply to Allted

No i did not get them from you, got them from ebay. A friend helped me out showing me the diagram of my steppers and the coils so after that your initial diagram made perfect sence :D managed to wire them and they move. Manually moving in repetier works perfectly, but dose not always want to start the job. What should be set as CNC program depth. 1t started on 1mm but then a few tims not, and then set it to 2mm and started once ,dose not want to go the second time. And get this error code: 02:56:44.703 : N6 M80 61
02:56:44.704 : Error:checksum mismatch, Last Line: 2
02:56:44.704 : Resend: 3
02:56:44.714 : Resend: N3 M111 S6
68
02:56:44.714 : Resend: N4 T0 30
02:56:44.714 : Resend: N5 M20
52
02:56:44.714 : Resend: N6 M80 61
02:56:44.714 : N7 M220 S100
70
02:56:44.714 : N8 M221 S100 72
02:56:44.714 : N9 M111 S6
78
02:56:44.714 : Error:Line Number is not Last Line Number+1, Last Line: 2
02:56:44.714 : Resend: 3
02:56:44.714 : N10 T0 43
02:56:44.718 : Resend: N3 M111 S6
68
02:56:44.718 : Resend: N4 T0 30
02:56:44.718 : Resend: N5 M20
52
02:56:44.718 : Resend: N6 M80 61
02:56:44.718 : Resend: N7 M220 S100
70
02:56:44.718 : Resend: N8 M221 S100 72
02:56:44.718 : Resend: N9 M111 S6
78
02:56:44.718 : Resend: N10 T0 *43
02:56:44.719 : echo:Active Extruder: 0
02:56:44.723 : echo:Active Extruder: 0
02:56:44.729 : Error:Line Number is not Last Line Number+1, Last Line: 10
02:56:44.729 : Resend: 11
02:56:44.733 : echo:Unknown command: "2"
02:56:44.733 : Error:Line Number is not Last Line Number+1, Last Line: 10
02:56:44.733 : Resend: 11

Did you flash my firmware? Are you using a ramps board? If you can manually move it it is a CAM post processing error. Are you using ESTLCAM, and repetier? http://www.vicious1.com/marlin-firmware/ http://www.vicious1.com/estlcam-basics/

I did follow all the instructions on your site. Im using the ramps1.4 and using ESTLCAM 8 and repetier. After reviewing your instruction pictures again i saw that the start of my code that came out of ESTLCAM was missing G00 X0.0000 Y0.0000 Z0.0000 in front of the G00 Z2.0000 line after inserting that it started right away. So was happy for 5 minutes after i wanted another run with it and i had to restart it like 5 times + repetitively having to press "OK" under the manual movement tab once the print starts, to be able to active the movement of the CNC. Really really strange having to restart it so many times to then have it working, and every time i follow a same procedure...

That happens every time for you? I'll look into it but the creator of estlcam and I tested the new post processor a week or 2 ago and it was working great. Are you using the new marlin setting in estlcam ?

Well i have to restart the ramps cca 5 times till it wants to starts any print /job and after repetitively pressing OK, if i just leave it it never started...I installed estlcam 8 and i did not have the preset Marlin settings in estlcam, i then used default preset and setup the settings as per the picture on your instructions

Did he get rid on the Marlin preset or you just haven't downloaded the newest Version?

I got the version 8 and i did not delete anything, i tried installing it now at work and i see the Marlin preset, so ill try re-installing estlcam 8 at home in a few hours and let you know. Thanks again for your prompt help on all the issues, really awesome of you :)

Just trying to get you up and running to see what your going to make with this! I am pretty stuck just making more kits for people, I really haven't built anything yet. Living vicariously...

Thanks man, my main goal is to make some custom aluminum fan grills and acrylic water paths. Now im regretting not making the hight adjustable feet. I already super glued the corner block and top foot tougher, do you think i can still make the adjustable foot or will i have to make new ones?

reinstalled it, got the presets of marlin, made out the cnc program, and run it in repetier, starts at first ask, only thing is it now in super super slow mo :DDD the ETA of the print is more then 2 Hours Vs the 2.3minuts that it was originally :D whats wrong with the speed now :D

There is a speed setting in estlcam, is that right, and there is an export setting. Check your units. I prefer mm/s, you need to export in mm/s for sure.

I have all the units in mm and mm/s see the screen shoot https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B97YYgjmlWKMQjRkSnUzSmoyY00 and the desired depth of CNC i set to 1mm. did you mean the speed settings in the tool list under F(xy) and F(z) ? or where?

Sep 22, 2015 - Modified Sep 22, 2015
Allted - in reply to S7design

They is anothere setting, on the same screen you choose marlin. Export units. Set it to mm/s by default it is mm/min I believe. Meaning its going 60x's too slow.

i must be blind, i see only feed unit, that was by default on mm/min i set it up on mm/s already as you can also see on that screen shoot.

Settings tab

Hi, i sorted it out, its under the feed rate and it should be mm/min as thats what repetier uses in the printer settings so i got that sorted, also still need to fine tune my table as it still a bit bent but finaly got some good results with the pen and also the first milling test went semi OK, but only failed as did not had it properly secured. See here https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B97YYgjmlWKMQjRkSnUzSmoyY00 . Also id like to ask you about the Dw660, learn today its only available in the US, i can order it on ebay but im not sure if it will work here, i also read its only 110V vs 240V we have here, and also would need a plug adapter for it. Can you recommend any other milling tool that i could use that is available in the EU and thats to expensive( up to €150). As the 660 is a good deal even if i pay postage and import fees from the US. thansk again

Congrats!

The 660 is definitely 120v only. can you get a Makita 3706?