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Mostly Printed CNC 525 "C-23.5mm OD"

by Allted, published

Mostly Printed CNC 525 "C-23.5mm OD" by Allted Mar 15, 2015
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Summary

Changelog
7/13/16 - New Roller Assemblies. No more motor mount flex, less hardware needed. More, mostly printed! New size added.
5/25/16 - New Center and Z Axis assemblies, More rigid!, easier to square, universal tool mount.
4/24/16 - New Corner assembly, easier to square, shorter print time, more rigid.

Mostly Printed CNC / MultiTool
These parts are for 23.5mm OD conduit.
25mm OD here-http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:790533
25.4mm OD here- http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1671517

WE WON! Grand Prize winner!. Thank You all for the votes and cooperation.

Nice write up, explains this in more detail Here

I set out to build a minimal cost CNC Machine with the goal of some basic aluminum capabilities and easily multi function.

More info
http://www.vicious1.com/

Hardware and printed parts available here.
http://www.vicious1.com/shop/

Printing info
http://www.vicious1.com/blog/parts/

The only special tools needed are a hacksaw, and a drill to for 4 holes.

This can be easily expanded to almost any length, width, and depth depending on rigidity required. Shorter lengths = more rigid. This is built using hardware store emt conduit (In the US it is sold as 3/4" (ID)), or as an upgrade you can use stainless steel tubing.

Most woods and plastics should be no problem. I milled Aluminum with a footprint of 23.5in x 32in x 4in. Aluminum works well https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GIYMuYgX0rY

You can switch the spindle out with a drag knife, laser, Extruder, ect, making it a great prototyping multi-tool. By adding length and depth It could easily be used to shape large easily milled things like wood, foam, or plastics. Keep it small for aluminum.

Add Ons

End Stop Mount
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1023985

MK8 MK9 extruder mount 3D printer
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:868983

Dewalt DW660 Mount
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:944952
http://amzn.to/1D7xByM

DW660 perpendicularity tester
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1525661
https://youtu.be/WM2AMtxMhMk

Pen Mount
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1612207

Blank Tool Mounts
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:805803

Laser (Leo69) Mount
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1636811

If what you are looking for isn't here search "MPCNC 525"

Print Settings

Rafts: Doesn't Matter

Supports: No

Infill: See http://www.vicious1.com/blog/parts/

Instructions

Wood Demo
https://youtu.be/j_O9fbzjSn8

3D Printing
https://youtu.be/amo8czFC75Y

Dual head
https://youtu.be/TZso__iMGu8

4 Head Madness! Just to show the platforms capabilities.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DeVeyUas5vU

X and Y axis take up about 264mm, so whatever cut area you want your outside dimensions should be that plus 264mm.

Electronics

I am using marlin / Ramps 1.4, there are a lot of options if you don't like this combo, grbl, tiny g, ect.

The X and Y steppers are wired in parallel, just like the z axis is on a 3d printer. Or in series.

http://www.vicious1.com/ramps-wiring/

Pre-configured firmware here- http://www.vicious1.com/marlin-firmware/

Bill Of Materials

Current List - http://www.vicious1.com/blog/parts/

Software

3d CAM

http://www.estlcam.com/
Looks like we have a winner! Free full featured, consider buying it for $50. Clean and simple.
http://www.vicious1.com/estlcam-basics/

Controller
http://www.repetier.com/
Right now I use Repetier-Host
http://www.vicious1.com/repetier-host/

Fusion 360 for the intermediate users with some experience.

I am very open to suggestions for others.

Extras

http://stores.ebay.com/carbideplus/ - drillman1's shop is the only place to get your endmills and things. Great prices, fast, easy.

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3 days ago - Modified 3 days ago

I'm thinking of doing a kind of virtual build of this in Solidworks. Reason being, I'm seeing more and more that people want some kind of guid to building this, and as assembly view complete with all hardware could aid in this (and possible be used to make a manual is someone know how to do that part) So, I was wondering which program was use to draw these parts, and if the original files for the current parts could be uploaded or uploaded in .STEP or .X_T, to help..... save me some time in redrawing them?

You can assemble STL's.

If you do a search in these comments and in the forums I give my reasons for not sharing that file format. Sorry.

2 days ago - Modified 2 days ago
DavesMODs - in reply to Allted

I can, however in Solidworks .STL imports look like a hybrid mesh/part, meaning the mesh points are all visible. This is a negative in three ways; 1- Slows the program as it is tracking each point or each part. 2-The assembly commands such as concentric and Tangent rely on "smooth" circles and surfaces to properly define them (a circle of triangle faces can't be defined as circular). The third is just a visual preference. Hybrid parts view is not as visually appealing as a true part in renders due to the mesh overlay. So for example, the product image above looks great, but add the mesh over to each part imported from STL and it quickly loosed the visual appeal and clarity of a solid/flat surface looking object.

Sorry, I am not releasing them.

How is the printing quality and speed? Compared to for example ultimaker 2

Allted - in reply to Razzo

Totally depends on size and your rail quality, generally the accelerations are set lower do to the larger moving mass. Other than that they use all the same electronics and hardware so not as different as you might think.

How long did you take to design this CNC?

It was a part time project for me at the time so it is hard to say plus shipping of parts and all that. I made a corner block bottom and put some conduit in it and sat it on the dinner table, a few weeks later I had a working prototype. I have been making revisions ever since!

I printed and assembled your brilliant project when it first came out.. What parts should i reprint to update to the more rigid parts ? Thanks !!

Not sure what parts you have now. I kind of released them over 5 months.
Have a look at the render if the parts don't match yours, start printing! Joking. Depends on what your doing with it, if your happy no problem with what you have.

The newer corners are more solid/square, the new middle and z are a big undertaking but are much more rigid, the new rollers are a surprisingly big update themselves no more motor flex.

Feel free to ask specifics.

Hello Allted. Thanks you for be here to reply and help to everyone that have a questions. First at all,I am newbie on this all. I have not a deep knowlogede about arduino. I know something, the elementary things. I would like to know if I can use a TR8*8 bolt screw instead M8 bolt screw (see picture link). In case yes, what I will have to change on firmware?.

Regards.

http://imgur.com/a/TaPam
http://imgur.com/nxCTQAM
http://imgur.com/qZqUSal

TR8 Leadscrew is not recommended. You trade mechanical advantage and resolution for speed and slightly less friction. The nuts are brass and not designed for the weight of this axis and tool, they also tend to have a lot of backlash.

If you do it you will need a custom nutlock, and calibrate your z axis steps per mm (seems to be 2 different versions so a careful measurement is necessary)

Can I hook up an https://www.arduino.cc/ board and graphic LCD to the controller you sell on your website? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=igPUZym_EDU Video on hook up

Allted - in reply to Ace01

Yup, both are sold on the site. the board is pre-flashed with the correct firmware for the screens I sell.

Ace01 - in reply to Allted

Perfect can't wait to get this built.

I already printed the old _Roller_F.STL part. Any issue of using this instead of the new version?

the main reason for the upgrade was that the old motor mount was prone to bending.
and the old roller and the new mount are not compatible

Now this is truly a open source CNC. Can't wait to have mine built and cutting carbon fiber to build racing quads. Thank you for doing this. I am going to order the hardware kit from your website.

Hey Allted, 1/ Thanks for being an open source Champion. 2/ What is the size of the biggest printed part? thanks and please. (170mm bed)

Looking in more detail, see the largest piece is under 160mm. Woohoo. buildable on my little printer!

Has anyone done a complete build video for the CNC?

Might be a stupid question. Were is the sizes for all the conduits to cut to what length?

This comment has been deleted.

can this be printed with one spool of filament?

If you read Allted's blog, the Bill of Materials lists 1.8 kg of filament is needed, so generally that's 2 1kg spools.

Hi man! That's a piece of work!
Congrats for your high designing skills.
Just a tough. In the Roller fixing nuts for the Roller_lock, I've intended I should use M4 bolts that uses M4 nuts. Is that ok? I ask just because I found nut pocket at 8mm, while Intl metrics for M4 is 7mm. Even squares nuts won't fit anymore in there.
Hope you'll understand my point. It's almost impossible to find M4 nut at 8mm here.
Anyway, gr8 job.

If you can get the nuts in there you can use any size you want. I know M3.5 aren't as common but they should fit.

Aug 2, 2016 - Modified Aug 2, 2016
biomushroom - in reply to Allted

Nope... you didn't get it... the pocket is bigger than it should. It should be an M4 -> 7mm, instead it carries the 8mm hex that is for the M5 nut. Just take a look in Google "M4 metric nut size" -> http://image.slidesharecdn.com/dimensionsofmetrichexnuts-121221090634-phpapp01/95/dimensions-of-metric-hex-nuts-1-638.jpg?cb=1356080846
I get your point, but if you want to put your design publicly available in Europe, you should follow IE metric rules.
I know drawing in other measurement system is a pain in the neck, but ask and listen to "metric peoples" helps a lot :)
I managed to correct the design in Inventor and, if you want, I'll post the STL for anyone to use and abuse it.
Cheers my friend.

A few things. This is world wide not just Europe. It was designed in the US and does fit the most inexpensive hardware here. Being an engineer most of the work I do is in metric. So to solve this problem the easiest way possible I fit the larger nuts and then smaller nuts should be no big deal just find a little something to stick in there to stop them from spinning. This is about a year and a half old now an very few people seem to have an issue with this. Long story short, this size seems to work for the majority.

You can release your part no problem. I'm sure you understand I can't make a release for all the different nut sizes out there, plus lock nut and regular.

Hello.

I am finishing of mouted the conduit and all printers parts. I do not find any information related to how to wire and for example were goes mounted the limits swicht and how. Please somebody can helpme with this.

Another thing. Could I use TR8*8 bolt instead the normal M8 bolt on Z axle ???

Someone have used it?

Regards and thanks in advance.

Aug 1, 2016 - Modified Aug 1, 2016
sadkins1981 - in reply to morfeushavana

The "official" assembly instructions, including electronics, are here:

http://www.vicious1.com/assembly/

And you can find more at the forums here:

http://www.vicious1.com/forum/

Aug 1, 2016 - Modified Aug 1, 2016
morfeushavana - in reply to sadkins1981

Thanks for your reply sadkins1981 but on that assembly doesn´t say anything about limits swicth its posittion and how the are mounted or where. At least I don´t find it.

I don't recommend limit switches for the beginner. Milling/routing is not the same as 3D printing. Limit switches are only useful for advance operations.

You will see how to disable homing in the software setup.

Hello Allted, thanks. Where I can see a step by step guide where I can understand how run firmware and software to the machine.

I want to build this but i want to use the same controller as the Shapeoko 3 and Xcarve. Would all the parts be the same besides that board. anyone that could help i'de greatly appreciate it

It should work fine as long as you don't plan on 3d printing.

nope none of that, i have a few dedicated pro printers just for everything from pla to polycarbonate and also tpu :) this will be specifically for cnc work, no 3d printing. would i JUST need to replace that board and use all the other components as you've listed? also i think i want to use the better Nema23 motors :) can you please message me to [email protected] i have some other questions

I emailed the other address earlier

hi is anyone else out there having trouble finding 23.5mm conduit as i cant find any in the uk

I made 2 other versions as well. I'm guessing 25mm will be easier for you to find?

25mm OD-http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:790533

25.4mmOD-http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1671517

Mostly Printed CNC 525 "F-25mm OD"
by Allted
Mostly Printed CNC 525 "J-25.4mm = 1" OD"
by Allted

@Allted please shoot me a message to [email protected] been trying to speak with you for some time now. thanks

Allted, I was just slicing the new 'C-Roller' and 'C-RollerM' parts for printing, and found a strange internal void that doesn't appear to have any purpose.
Edward

Yup, no purpose but no harm as well. At some point I might go in and get rid of it but it might be adding some extra strength to the grip as well.

Well, I'm printing mine without, I'll let you know how the machine handles :)
Edward

How do you think this thing would perform on milling out a guitar body? Or even a neck with some manual labor in the mix for the matter?

I'm headed out to the local flea market right now. Looking for a donor guitar so I can give it a shot. I couldn't seem to find a kit online that had all the parts that was a decent price. So I will start with a used one and see what happens. I have seen lots of cool cnc'd bodies out there.

I mean like but a blank and carve the whole thing. That would be amazing if this little guy can pull it off. Get a blank of basswood from warmoth. its the cheapest and softest. Kinda a poor performer as also. But a real test would be any wood above that. Like mahagony or ash.

I just put up a second video of me milling some Ipe, that is the most dense wood I can find and it handles it just fine.

Hey Allted,
on the parts list on your site(http://www.vicious1.com/blog/parts/)
Why are some part names grayed?(FootBottom, RollerMount, RollerPlate)

That should match up with how I print the bundle colors. I need to double check since I just updated that list today, but that's what it used to be for.

Oh okay. Just wanted to make sure it didn't mean you were mid update or something.

Are we able to request a modified version of the new roller mount that features the holes for the wires? Currently that's where my motor leads are terminated at, but if not I guess I will rewire the motor.

Oh man, I didn't even think about that. You are talking about the solder-less mounts?

Hey Allted, I just wanted to check in and see if you did have plans for the solder-less mounts? If not I will re-wire the steppers. Could you provide me a lead on where to find the 4 wire shielded cable you provided with the vitamins kits?

What size/version machine are you using? I'm moving this week, Don't have time to do all 6 but I can do the ones you need first. Sorry it gets a little crazy around here sometimes and if my notes get erased I forget.

I am using the US Standard Conduit version. So the 23.5mm version??? But most certainly get what you need to get done first because I am away for the entire next week for work so won't be around my printer. Plus I already have a working one so its not a big deal.

I just tried to make it like it was before and it doesn't fit. So I think I am going to have to make a clip on part or add material the mount. I'll have another look at it after I get out today's orders.

No problem. Thank you so much for taking a look at it sir.

That is correct. Would it be difficult to make a version of them?

Hi, I'm just got my 1st 3D printer and am excited about the prospects of building this CNC setup as well as i've wanted one for a long time. I'm primarely a woodworker, but i love creating things. So primarily looking to do routing work in dense hardwoods. But i also have a need to do some aluminum milling. I'd probably build something ~30"x48" to start. But i'm wondering how accurate & rigid is ur current setup for milling stuff like aluminum at those sizes? And would the new 25.4mm(1") version u are working on provide a marked improvement over the 3/4" version for rigidity? I would even consider going stainless at some point but probably not for the 1st version given the added cost as i need to learn on it.
Thanks
And curious to hear what those who have built are achieving w/ a mostly stock built unit.

Large wood projects and aluminum milling are on two opposite ends of the CNC spectrum. I don't think I would try to do both with the same machine.

I can't really answer the accuracy question, every build will be different, the tool, and the gcode has just as big of an effect. If I give some specific numbers it will cause a flood of emails saying there machine is either better or worse and how to fix it. All I can say is I have been milling frames for the MP3DP at 15.5" square out of HPDE and they are coming out way better than I expect most woodworkers would care about. I actually have been routing a bunch of small pieces of whit oak and ipe for an upcoming video and the measurements are coming out pretty much spot on.

23.5mm and 25.4mm frame sizes won't change the machine much, Go with what you can find locally. I just bought a bunch of stainless for the 25.4 build and it was $3/foot where emt is $7/10'. If that pricce doesn't seem to bad to you the Stainless is very nice and really the only upgrade I can see having a rigidity effect at this point.

If you are about to get started with your prints whatever size you chose print the roller assemblies last I will be releasing the new ones in a few day or sooner.

Hmm. Well space a big factor atm as i really don't have the room for 2 machines, let alone 1. My shop is already full of at least 2 or 3 of every machine. lol. 3/4" emt is only $3.61 here atm. While 1" emt is $6.66. So 1" doesn't offer any more rigidity over 3/4"? I'm no engineer but seems the added surface would increase it somewhat. I haven't sourced stainless locally. but i know its expensive online. I have worked w/ emt b4 and 1" seems stronger then 3/4".

I guess i'm curious about why u wouldn't consider wood & aluminum projects on the same machine? Aside from not wanting to mix metal shaving's into you're wood projects are there any other reasons? I can certainly see myself having a seperate wood shop & metal shop at some point. As i'm also trying to doing metal fabrication work also. I plan on having a plasma CNC at some point when i move.

1"emt will not work. You need to verify the OD's. EMT is rated by the ID.

3/4" emt is 23.5mm OD and and 1" = 25.4mm, yes it technically would be stronger but you will not find 1" OD emt in the US you would need to invest in stainless steel. Other parts of the world the EMT is 1", odd as heck but that's how it goes I guess.

A large machine is less rigid, cutting metal requires every little bit of rigidity you can get to get the speeds up to something reasonable. I didn't say you couldn't do it but it is far from ideal. If you look through my videos you can see the speeds at which I cut aluminum on a 25"x30" (built for wood). You can add midspan supports to help if you are going to do it. You can easily do a giant plasma cutter as the only force on the gantry is the weight of the hose. Have a quick look though google at the difference is machine size vs cutting volume (and price for that matter) of a wood cnc vs metal it might illustrate the issues better than my explanations. Wood up to 4'x8' for 5-8k, metal 24"x12" $50k.

It is a multi machine but not necessarily all at the same time, best to chose the main use and see what else works in that build volume.

If you need some better examples you should put up a post in the forums. You will get a lot more opinions there, generally I am the only one that sees these comments.

Hey everyone that likes the MPCNC. Here is overlooked link to donate to Allted the creator of the MPCNC. I donated a bit when I finished printing my parts. Got the nicest written thank you. He puts the money towards his student loans. I have never met the guy, but clearly, he has put a lot of effort into this. I hope to reward him a bit more when I get mine running.
http://www.vicious1.com/donate/

Great Work! I have everything built and wired up. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to send a sample lasercut DXF file to work with this? Including software to any changes I have to do to the board. I am using what was included in the kit on viscious1.com and am trying to now use the machine now that I have everything wired up.
I really just want as a starter to get the axis to be able to move to make sure it runs smoothly. Any suggestions for a beginner are welcome!
Thanks!
Best,
Andrew Reynolds

If you bought it from me it is flashed and ready to go, if not you have some work to do. I wasn't really sure if you used my recommended parts or my parts.

If you bought it from me, here is how you get started. http://www.vicious1.com/estlcam-basics/

Thanks for the very quick response! Yes I bought a kit from you last summer and built everything but long story short, had left it at my parents house while I was away at college and am just now getting back to working on it to start printing and cutting with the machine.
Thanks for the link I will follow the steps and hopefully be up and running!

Thank you for this great design, i was looking to build a cnc machine for years but never could talk myself into the amount of money needed for it. But i have a question (and i have done a complete CTRL+F through all the comments) I live in Europe and the DeWalt is not here for sale. Sure there there are dremels, but i am not a big fan of them. For the the same price as the DeWalt you can buy a Proxxon : http://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/28481.php

Is there a reason not to use this ? Thanks a lot

Thanks for the compliments. That is why I built this, I had wanted one for a long time but didn't want to invest that much money into some of the other systems. I never thought anyone else would actually use it, boy was I wrong.

Or one of the 300-800W spindles available everywhere, but they are more expensive.

Jul 9, 2016 - Modified Jul 9, 2016
FreeMason - in reply to Allted

Thanks Allted and rtideas, i decided to go for a Kress 1050: http://www.kress-elektrik.com/Power-tools.71+M5a52714ab70.0.html?&tx_commerce_pi1%5BcatUid%5D=17&tx_commerce_pi1%5BshowUid%5D=1035

This seems to be the standard in europe when building a hobby cnc. I might upgrade to a chinese spindle but because i want a big working space (like 48") i am worried a chinese spindle of 5-7 kilo might be too heavy...

Looks like a very nice tool, and priced accordingly. ;)

Found a CAD file that might help give you a start to making mount for it (link on bottom of page):
https://damencnc.com/en/tools/kress/kress-milling-motor/87

Depends on how much power you want/need. The Proxxon is listed as 100W. That's about a 1/2 amp by my calculations. You might look at trim routers or other rotary tools by Bosch, Ryobi, Porter-Cable, Makita, etc. with 3 amps or more of power. I plan on using a 3.5A/420W (@ 110v US) cutout tool from Harbor Freight (a cheap tool store with most goods from China) that I picked up for less than $20US. You can check eBay or places and look for used tools elsewhere. You may have to design a tool mount, but that should not be too hard--or ask for help.

Jul 5, 2016 - Modified Jul 5, 2016

Can i cut 4mm Carbon with this system?

Carbon fiber, yes very easily.

you can have the Toolmount file in a format different from stl?
Unfortunately Fusion360 not allow me to modify it to create a support for my dremel: D

Mostly Printed CNC -Part- Blank Tool Holders
by Allted

spectacular!
Thanks

Is PLA good enough?

Yes, It is what I recommend.

http://www.vicious1.com/blog/parts/

I've just finished printing all the parts with the old version of the middle assembly. What do I need to do to upgrade to the new middle assembly and is it worth the extra plastic? I'm printing in PLA if that makes a difference.

Also, is there an assembly guide available for the old version (pre 5/26)? I think I'd like to just assemble my machine as-is, and then do upgrades later.

The old and new assembly guides are right here. http://www.vicious1.com/assembly/

The updated parts have an asterisk in the list, http://www.vicious1.com/blog/parts/

Is it worth it? If you are routing/milling with the CNC then yes it is worth it, anything else not much of a difference.

Ah, okay, I missed the old version further down the page. Thanks!

For the new middle/corners, is there any other hardware that's needed in order to upgrade? I might look at putting together an upgrade guide at some point when I get around to actually doing the upgrade :)

Do you plan to do major updates to the machine going forward? If so, do you have some plans on how to version the designs? With only two common variants of the design, it's pretty easy to deal with, but it'll start to become a headache managing a bunch of different versions all in the same place. If you want help with managing the documentation for that, let me know. I'd love to help out.

The update you will need 4x2.5" bolts, and 1x5" bolt, maybe some extra screws and nuts depending on the tool mount you use.

Thanks for the offer. I think I want to update the rollers, and maybe the feet but that's it, and I ill be able to release the 25.4mm version as well. After that there are some ideas for a milled version or a 3 rail/axis version for the people that want to go giant.

Hello, my question is about 3D printing, how fast can I print with this machine, in mm/s approximately?

Trick question. With my recommended parts and setting default is maxed at 197mm/s, double that at 16th stepping.

But, https://all3dp.com/3d-printing-speed

I usually print at about 30....

It was not my intention to do a trick question, i want to print really big models like architectural models, so I want speed and I 'm looking for a machine that is much faster than a, for example, Prusa I3. I think I 'm going to build your machine if anyone recommend me another.
Thank you very much for the information and congratulations for your design!

Did you read the link it explains the speed limitations. To speed up the prints a larger nozzle is a better option.

what is the spacing of the holes for the tool mount?

the first one, ive tried the blank mount part but all i get is the mk mount base. i want the exact distance between the holes moving up the sides of the mount

The drawing is located in the blank mount part page with dimensions.

Jun 19, 2016 - Modified Jun 19, 2016
wbarber69 - in reply to Allted

i figured it was 25 but i just wanted to make sure.
heres a blank if anyone wants to make their own tool mount
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1634262

I havent printed it yet, but the dimensions are sketched directly on top of the stl files, so they should be acurate.

Blank Universal tool mount for MPCNC 525

I have the old style center and was looking for the files for the tool mounts (especially the dewalt 660). Does anyone still have the old files? I really don't want to print off an all new center just yet...

Could you provide the SolidWorks files? As the assembly...

No I'm sorry I have a few reasons for not doing this.

okay :) Allted I would like to know the length that I need to cut the OD conduit for a working area of 500 x 500 x 250 I would be very grateful you can help me with this. o/

He walks you through it here, or there are links to calculators at the bottom:
http://www.vicious1.com/assembly/conduit-rails-tubes-pipes/

thank you for your support! to calculate the pipes for the legs Do I use 250-13 = 237 mm (for my case)?!? and congratulations for the design! very good!

One of the things that it awesome about this design is that I can print every part, but one, on the print bed of the Monoprice MP200. The one part that I can't fit in the 125X125X125 print volume, just barely fits. No worries, I have access to other printers. I just think it's awesome that most of it can be printed on the $200 printer.

Allted - in reply to dbax

Glad to hear, thank you.

Jun 15, 2016 - Modified Jun 15, 2016

have anyone try to cut carbon fiber sheet with this machine? maybe just a 2mm CF sheet?

Thanks

Jun 14, 2016 - Modified Jun 14, 2016

I just finished assembling a MPCNC will ABS parts printed at a 70% infill. Holy cow what a difference!

Using ABS rather than PLA has SIGNIFICANTLY improved the rigidity of this machine. I can flex the z axis on the PLA MPCNC by tugging on it this ABS one is rock solid!

Awesome that that worked out for you. Most find the shrinkage causes alignment issues. A few of you lucky ones get parts that fit well and are stronger. Congrats.

Thanks man. Printed in ABS was a challenge to figure out! I have not noticed any shrinkage of the parts. I had high resolution PLA parts that I already had printed to compare the ABS to PLA. I have an entire MPCNC machine that is printed in PLA 70% infill at 120 micron layer height. I dont know what Im going to do with those parts now? They currently live in a grocery bag and may just stay there indefinitely.

I had to design a specialty printer to do this. It worked and I built 2 printers with a chamber just to print the parts to make this MPCNC machine with ABS parts. Im so hooked on ABS now!! ABS + MPCNC = AWESOME!

If anybody is interested I posted the custom built printer on thingverse here:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1589570

Side note... My comments have a huge blank space at the top. Weird. I am trying to repost this comment to see if I can fix this issue by resubmitting.

Custom Prusa with Conduit Y Axis 608 Bearing
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Hi ! i've been investing plenty of time onto this, but i'm still sad.
I had it printed, but i couldn't find 25mm conduits.
Then i re-printed it to adjust my 22,5mm conduits. They we're just fine.
I burned some cnc shield meanwhile, but finally got it all right.
Now, when I try it, it is still not perfect and when I put it to work the motor usually runs without moving the makita when it finds resistence.
Could someone help me pls ?
I'd really like to have it working.
I'm starting to think this project is not proper for me.

There are a lot of questions to answer before anyone can help you.

You should move your question to here, http://www.vicious1.com/forum/forumz/troubleshooting/
Put in as meany details as possible, including what parts you are using and how you have it set up. Including some pictures usually helps as well as do videos.

Hi, can I use metric screws in this version or only imperial?

Allted - in reply to fjlp

Metric is fine, there is a list here. http://www.vicious1.com/blog/parts/

do you have a dermal 300 mount for new middle?

3000? arkteknik did one search mpcnc 525 and there is the new list, http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1617018

MPCNC 525 - Dremel 3000 Mount

Hello,
can you maybe reup the nutlock for the old middle assembly? :-)

Hi Allted, THX very much!!! <3

Your welcome, sorry to delete them on you.

I need the old 11 mm z-nutlock also but the link above doesn't seem to work.

Is there an archive of all the files for the older build anywhere? thanks!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/oof591up28anm27/del%20z%20nut%20lock%2011mm%20coupler.STL?dl=0

There was a thing with all the old files but I can't find it right now I didn't post it.

thanks for the quick response!

Great job :)
Can you post the full specification of the C-ToolMount part in order to create my own adapters (3D printing...) ?

Mostly Printed CNC -Part- Blank Tool Holders
by Allted
Mostly Printed CNC -Add On- MK Extruder
by Allted

Whooop, The rework of the middle looks great. Question, can you use the new middle without changing the corners and rollers.

Thanks and yes, it all works together.

First off, this machine looks incredible and I can not wait to start putting it together. Second, thank you for the lightening fast shipping on the hardware bundle I purchased on your site. I ordered on Monday and it showed up on Wednesday - gotta love that! So now on to my question - I had just started printing the first of the middle parts when I saw your 5/25/16 update. I quickly hit cancel and am now printing the new middle parts but there are two that are confusing me. The C-NutLock looks like it comes in 11 mm and 13 mm sizes, and the Pineapple_coupler comes is "5mm_8MM" and "5mm_5_16in" sizes. Which of each should I print if I got hardware from you? I looked for the answer here and on your site but either missed it or just didn't see it. Thanks for your help and for this inspired design!

Thanks for all the compliments!

I actually just, updated that in the middle assembly page.

The bundle from the site uses the 5/16 coupler, and the 11mm nut lock.

Perfect, thank you!

Are the assembly instructions available for the 5-25-2016 update? What router does the update support and will the Dewalt DW660 mount work with the new update?

All tool mounts will need to be updated. The 660 mount has already been added to thingiverse, and is linked in the description, http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:944952

Mostly Printed CNC -Add On- Dewalt DW660 Mount - updated-
by Allted

Super! Thank you. Does the use of the 660 mount eliminate the need for the C-Z-Lower and C-Z-Motor parts?

Nope that is the Zaxis parts. I should have some assembly instructions up today or tomorrow I hope maybe it will make more sense then.

http://www.vicious1.com/assembly/
Most have already been updated should finish it off before anyone finishes printing the parts, although assembly is very similar to the last parts.

I just got the bearing and bits for the last variant, but have not printed the middle bits yet (was to start today).... Before printing one or the other, will these updated parts use the same or less parts? Can I print this instead and be ok with what I got....

You will need 4 more 2.5" bolts and a 5" bolt, that's the only difference.

Thank you. I've got it printing now. I did notice or couldn't find it referenced... the nut lock and spacer doesn't use a sprint anymore for backlash or did I overlook something? If not, I was going to print the nutlock twice (instead of the spacer) and see if I can install a standard nut and spring in there.....

Too many people were having issues setting the tension with the spring so I just took it out.

You idea about using the lower space is great, I had never thought about that. I might have to do a little write-up. If I do I will credit you for sure.

Thank you, much appreciated.
I was thinking it would work like this (but not quite there printing wise to test), Putting the spring above the nut in the holder (closest the Z motor). Thread the rod upward through the bottom nut and spring until it just touches the second nut. From there, back the rod out 3-4 turns, pushing it up against the second nut (to add downwards tension), and then threading it up all the way to the motor.
I should have everything printed to test in 2-3 days, and let you know how it worked.

Hi, first i must say that you did amazing job! Can i use it to cnc with acrylic perspex sheets?

Thanks! You sure can, try a few different kind of bits I think a down cut flute would be best on thin sheet material but there are also good plastic bits available.

hi, i was trying to look for instructions related to milling process and wiring diagrams for the same but i wasn't able to find anything like that on your website.... Can you please guide me regarding this matter?

No extra wiring is needed. I just plug mine into a speed controller and go.

http://www.vicious1.com/estlcam-basics/
http://www.vicious1.com/speed-control/

where to connect the spindle terminals to the ramps?

Most of us don't we just manually turn it on and off.

Can i use DC PWM speed controller to control the 300 watt spindle? link to the speed controller is given in the link below
http://goo.gl/wpKSKs

Yes, you can, but it does add more complexity to your setup. If you're unsure of the wiring it really is easier to just go with a DW660 and speed controller or DWP611 with built in speed controller - you probably don't want to jump right into spindle control right off the bat if you have no experience with it. Take it one step at a time, build it, learn the machine, learn the software, learn things using an easy tool like the DW660 - then go for a DC spindle down the road if you want.

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ok thanks :)

Is here someone that have a 3d file how the printer is assembled? Like the first picture on this site!
I like to remix the machine.. whould me more than nice

If you are asking for the CAD files I have not released them, other than the tool mounts.

May 8, 2016 - Modified May 8, 2016
nonkonform - in reply to Allted

Ok,.. I mean the cad/3ds/c4d what ever file format to make one more stage to illustrate what I like to do .. I think when I make a picture its easyer to understand... I plan one more stage for the z axis to make it more stable and a heat champer around...

and thanks for responding

MPCNC Openscad assembly and parametric control
by jegb70

I am using a Beaglebone Black with a CRAMPS cape and as part of my MPCNC build I have made a 3D printable case for the BBB/CRAMPS combo. It's on Thingiverse here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1532808. It's kinda still in the works but it's at a usable stage. Additions I am thinking of adding are standoffs for the space between the BBB and the CRAMPS boards and mounting flanges. I have also posted the freecad files for easy modding. Please let me know what you think.

Beaglebone Black with CRAMPS cape case

Nice Thing,

I also want to build one myself.

I live in germany and don't have accress to cheap 23,5 or 25mm metall tubing. I had found some 25mm tubing for 20-22 € for 2 meter. That is to expensive. Same material (steel) with 26,9 mm cost only 4,40€ for 2 meters.

So I guess I must change the plans to match the tubing or anybody give me a hint for cheaper tubing.

Is it possible to "simply" scale the parts for 26,9 tubing?

Wieviel kostet denn der Zeug in Deutschland?

May 2, 2016 - Modified May 2, 2016
mformaker - in reply to aarondiab

Hi aarondiab,

What do you mean with "der Zeug" the mpcnc or the tubing?
I guess u mean mpcnc:
arduino + ramps = 30 €
5 nema 17 = 50 €
Screws nuts about = 50€
bearing 608 ZZ = 12 €
If "der Zeug" = tubing -> according to link 18€
printed parts = 30€

I meant the tubing.

danke mann,

ich habe TAGE lang gesucht und nur gnadenlos überteuertes zeug gefunden.

Come check out the forums I think there was some German machines in there.

Scaling that much is probably not a good idea. Have you looked into closet rod, or shower rod, stainless steel tubing, ect?

Hi Allred,

I searched DAYS for the best option. (For tubing and to keep it low price)
I considered:

  • alu
  • stainless steel
  • steel

Alu is quiet cheap 6m ~ 12 € 25x2mm, but I expect it not to be rigid enough.
Stainless steel is ridicleous expensive ~ 6m = 60-80€ 25x2 this is not really nice.

But if we change the measurement of the tubing there are really apealling prices with good material AND easy availeable.
For example 21,3 (OD)x3mm ~ 9€ for 6m (Steel tubing) and 26,9(OD)x2mm ~ 11€ for 6m.

Apr 29, 2016 - Modified Apr 29, 2016

Just a heads up for everyone, not sure if this is posted in the instructions anywhere BUT...

When printing the "Middle Z Rigid" part I ran into problems twice and wasted a bunch of hours and filament.

First print: I ran into problems when not using support structures.

Second print: I also ran into problems when using support structures (I'm using Makerbot Replicator 2 and Makerware)

But I noticed on the second print the problems occurred when the printer added supports to the hollow parts of the print (such as the screw holes)

The solution that worked for me was the following:

Use Cura software: https://ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software

Make sure you use the correct machine settings / infill settings / speed settings etc

And use these settings also

Support type: Touching buildplate

Platform adhesion type: Raft

Also you may want to set the shell thickness to .6 mm since Cura doesn't have a "number of shells" setting. This will ensure that the 2 shells add up to the recommended 1.2 mm

Then save the gcode

If you are using a makerbot you cannot use this gcode as is so it requires further modification

You will need to open Replicator G software: http://replicat.org/download

Open the gcode file that you just saved, then save as .x3g

Yup, sorry for not putting it in writing. That is the only part that needs support.

This is soon to be replaced by the new center and Z axis assembly.

Printing like crazy now .... does that mean the whole center and Z assy will be updated and the parts will be changed? If so, when can we expect them?
Thanks for the great work, you're really an open mind. I wish I'm too :-))

Ready when they are worth making. I had what I thought was a beter upgrade and it turns out it wasn't any better so now I have another one getting tested now. You can follow along with the progress here. http://www.vicious1.com/forum/topic/updated-center-parts/

My machine needs 3 new top corner pieces mine all have cracked. The file has been pulled. Is there a way you could upload these somewhere else or put them on here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:902483 ? The pieces I need are in the picture of the assembled build.

-OLD- Mostly Printed CNC -Add On- LEG
by Allted

I put both of the old ones up there and will take them down in a few days to avoid confusion.

That piece does very little if you have cracked 3 of them you are tightening it way too tight. Mine are snug but if I need to I can still rotate the conduit by hand without loosening them.

could i build the machine with 25mm tubes? because in europe we do not hace 3/4 inch tubes. and if it is posiblle, i have to print the same stl?
Thank you

International Edition -25mm conduit-
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:790533

Mostly Printed CNC 525 "F-25mm OD"
by Allted

Has anyone got a build parts source list for the UK ?

And last question for the day. I am ready to try some milling. I have the dewalt, and end mills, and printing the quick change adapter to switch between tools. I got some MOLEX connectors to make it easier to disconnect the extruder, I'm guessing that ya'll use some sort of quick disconnects for the wires? Cat5 connectors were way to expensive. My question is, what are ya'll using for quick tool changes?

CAT 5 will not work for power.

How do you use PETG without a heated bed? And will the mk 8 extruder go up to 250 or do I need an all metal hotend.

I think it is rated a bit higher than that. I have a roll to try but I am running some test parts first.

You can easily add a heated bed, I have them. Plug and play.

I didn't see them in the parts store on the page?

Still working on a finding a decent supplier.

They are readily available elsewhere though. I have a link for a set on the 3d printer project page.

Sohas anyone added a couple heat beds to this yet? I'm thinking of mulling my 3d printer bed to drop in like 4 heat beds for a 20"x20"heated build area. Just not sure how I would run it, probably externally controlled of course. Any thoughts?

This has come up a few times in the forums.

Hello again. My PLA(ordered it before I got the advice on PETG) arrived and I'm starting to look at my options for spindles as the printer does it's job.

It occured to me to ask, does the MPCNC code and hardware support spindle PWM?

Sorry for the trouble.

You should tag this, and the international version with the MPCNC tag. Searching for MPCNC doesn't find this item (but it finds the hundreds of accessories).

Thats funny, I didn't even realize. The MPCNC name didn't stick for almost 5-6 months I think, forgot to add it I was updating things a few days ago an swore I checked that, scatter brained. Thanks good catch.

Sorry I don't own one, so I can't take measurements and test it. sorry.

Hello ! congratulations for your project.
I 've also finished the assembly of the structure .
I do not understand how do I connect the motors to the RAMPS board .
I have only one connector for x-axis and y but I have two motors to be connected . how can I do ?

thank you !

You wire them in parallel with one pair reversed. Usually the stepper wires need to be cut and extended anyway so wiring it together makes it easy. http://www.vicious1.com/wiring-the-steppers/

Or I have custom wiring harnesses.

you are number 1 !!!

This thing is pretty boss. I think I am going to build one but I am going to use a Beaglebone Black and a CRAMPS board with Machinekit (Linuxcnc fork) Like I have on my 3d printer.

Thanks

I looked into it that last night, looks cool. If you get this going will you post a how to on the forums or somewhere? I think a lot of people will have an interest in it.

Will do. I have machinekit running on my delta printer with a BBB and CRAMPS board so I think it won't be that difficult but I need to save up for a CRAMPS board and another BBB. If I get it all configured I will post a sd card image with machinekit configured.

Awesome!

UPDATE: I have almost everything printed and a friend is going to trade me a BBB for milling work when I get it up. I also just ordered the CRAMPS board so it is all coming together. I will post once I get it set up and running.

Hello! I've been thinking of taking on this project for some time now as an upgrade to my Makesmith CNC. The one thing I wanted to ask about was how hard it would be to itegrate one of my favorite features of the Makemsith: The use of rotary encoders so that the machine was able of self-correcting if it ever goes out of step during a cut.

Do you think it would be hard for me to implement something like that? Worthwhile?

Rotary encoders are ideal, self correcting is awesome. Downside is they are usually really expensive. There is a user that used the MPCNC and made his own arduino based rotary encoders. There is a video on you tube.

They're expensive? Odd, the Makesmith was, like super-budget oriented... Open source too. The idea was to use micro servo's instead of stepper motors. Hmm, well I think I'll take a shot at it eventually. I hate not having the things on my delta printer. I'll make the base model and then try to contact the guy you mentioned,

Thanks for the assistance!

Huge power difference between the micro servos and the Nema 17 steppers.

Apr 7, 2016 - Modified Apr 7, 2016
GeoDude - in reply to Allted

Oh yeah! Stuff took forever on that thing. Looking forward to something with a bit more oomph. Only have PETG arm the moment so I'll have to wait to get some PLA, but then I'll start cranking the parts out

PETG wouldn't be a bad choice for a lot of these parts if you have the time to print it. I had varying success with layer adhesion on some of the tool holder parts and ended up redoing a few pieces in PETG.

There isn't an issue with a different rates of shrinkage between PETG and PLA?

Shrinkage isn't really an issue for either, and they are basically interchangeable in that regard. Everything I have printed with both has been dimensionally the same.

Apr 9, 2016 - Modified Apr 9, 2016
3dEz - in reply to GeoDude

My MPCNC is 90% PETG, only because I ran out of black PETG and had to print corner blocks in black ABS. I had no problems with shrinkage.

Apr 3, 2016 - Modified Apr 3, 2016

I made the decision to build this. I have started printing parts. I have 2 additional questions. 1) would black iron pipe work better than conduit since it is much stronger? 2) Are there any parts that could really benefit from being made in aluminum instead of printed? I have a casting setup at home. Once I have everything built and working, I am going to try my hand at lost PLA Casting. I am not sure if this project would have much benefit from aluminum or not.

1) If it is more rigid along it's length, maybe. It is much heavier and the surface finish is questionable. Careful with the work stronger, it doesn't mean much. Ideal is rigid along it length, minimal sag. Light, able to handle high point load on it's surface. Nice surface finish.

2) Right now just the roller motor mounts. Unless you want to get crazy, all the parts would be awesome castings.

That makes sense. Yep. strength is vague. I believe that it is more ridged than conduit but I could be wrong. It would be much heavier and I can see your point there. Also, I am not sure about the surface. Black iron pipe is not sand cast so it probably has a good surface. I could see corrosion screwing that up though where conduit is going to be more corrosion resistant.

I will play around with Lost PLA casting after I get this built and working. Might be awhile though.

So, I just started printing everything... I just wanted to double check something: I'm having a very hard time getting the corner block over the conduit I got from Home Depot. I'm not sure if it's supposed to be as tight as it is. I can't get the conduit through the piece (no bolts) without having to pry it open pretty significantly with a flat screwdriver. I took some micrometer readings:

pipe OD: .925" / 23.50mm
http://i.imgur.com/UMpv0JN.jpg

printed piece hole diameter: .90" / 22.86mm
http://i.imgur.com/BiX9mXJ.jpg

once it's in, the part that's supposed to be clamped down is spread open pretty far (i know there is supposed to be a gap after bolting down):
http://i.imgur.com/gBgfhSn.jpg

the .stl looks like it's supposed to be .929" diameter. Is my printer printing the piece too small? I'm slicing in Cura, if that matters. I don't forsee this really being an issue if the piece doesn't crack, I just wanted to see if others were having a similar experience. Thanks!

Print a calibration cube and do an extrusion test. Those numbers are close but a little off. Hopefully just over extrusion.

Thanks for the help. Calibration cubes were off, I was using Cura to slice, now i'm using slic3r and it's a world of difference and everything is printing accurately. All my parts are printed and additional materials have arrived. So I start assembly tonight!

I'm going to build the recommended size to start, but i'm going to try to build a 4'x8' version shortly after testing (to fit my 4x8 workbench). Have you or anybody built middle supports for the conduit? I've looked around but haven't seen any.

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still, private files I can't see them

Mar 29, 2016 - Modified Mar 29, 2016
3dEz - in reply to rissoual

Love the visual guide to the problem.. two pictures are worth 2 thousand words ;)
Alted has instructions on how to adjust the parallelism as part of the build manual. This is common problem and frankly drove me a bit crazy at the beginning. There are some tools here in Thingiverse to help (I haven't tried) but if you backtrack your built just a bit it is very fixable. Start by unscrewing your legs and loosening up all of your corner blocks. The center hub should drive everything square to a reasonable state, but before you start tightening screws check 1) your square dimensions 2) than your diagonals 3) go back to 1, repeat. The diagonals being the same (if your square dimensions are) will guarantee the parallelism. Hope this helps a bit. You seem to have a huge difference, I was going crazy with just a few mm diff. ;)

Allted - in reply to 3dEz

You can also back out the 4 3" screws in the center assembly, and put them back while it is still on the rails.

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Anyone better than I am at CAD capable of making a mount for the bondtech extruder? http://www.bondtech.se/stl-files/

I am thinking about building this but I am concerned about its aluminum capabilities. I have read that aluminum is really its upper limit. I would be interested in this primarily for aluminum with other materials being secondary. Most of the aluminum that I would consider would be sheet and plate so not really thick (probably no more than 1/4".

Is it reasonable to do a lot of aluminum sheet and plate with this? Alternatively, is aluminum more of a proof of concept where it is technically possible but very challenging to set up and really strains it?

What limits the use of aluminum is mainly the spindle HP and less so the motor torque. I would suggest using the NEMA 23s to negate that issue. Then you will need to find a more powerful spindle. I would suggest going for a full spindle assembly rather than running a hand spindle like the Dwalt used. These spindles are designed to go through aluminum more easily, and with the better HP, they will have the power to do it. Hope this helps.
Byron

It does help, thanks. Nema 23's are not too expensive. I also have a reasonably powerful wood working router that would probably do better than the dewalt. I could also look into a different spindle if that is too big. So that solves the spindle and axis power issue with out much added cost.

What do you think about the stiffness/strength against the x and y axis when the tool hits the aluminum. Do you think that there is enough stiffness in this machine to push through the aluminum on a consistent basis with out too much flex?

I would say it is a rigidity issue. I have never stalled either my steppers or my router, which was a dremel at first. If you plan on doing a lot of aluminum just build it as small and as short as possible. My first 2 videos on you tube were with a tiny flex shaft grinder and tiny 42 oz/in steppers. and as you can see it milled them just fine at a foot print of 30x30.

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I think that I am going to make this. What footprint do you think that I should start with for mostly aluminum? 500X500mm or smaller?

I guess I could always throw in a couple upgrades in the future such as linear rods as well if I wanted a bigger footprint.

Mar 26, 2016 - Modified Mar 26, 2016
john2364 - in reply to Allted

Yep, the Videos looks like it handled it fine. I just never saw what it took to get to that point or how much stress was really applied.

Making it smaller would be ok since I do not have the need to mill large pieces of aluminum although, I always seem to find new needs when I do something like this ;).

Making it smaller would increase rigidity around the x and Y rods, but what about x/y strains on the tool holder/Zaxis rods, is there a concern there or do you think that its mostly in the outer x/y rails where rigidity is a concern?

You could also double up the cross axis rods like the 4 printing head video shows. This would reduce your workable area, but increase rigidity.

Allted - in reply to JBF

No way. I need to brush up on my Spanish and ask him to respect the license.

Although if he sell that for his asking price I am in the wrong business.

Great Thing ;-)
If we use the Marlin Firmware from your site and the Hardware like recommendet, we still Need to configure steps for the axis in the config ?

Best regards from austria

Allted - in reply to ruvy

If you use all the recommended parts the steps are pre-configured.

Allted - in reply to ruvy

Looks great. You need some lube on that z axis though, squeak squeak. haha

I do not understand

Please I have a problem in the mechanism of my machine.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9C5ytNMIQKwaGI5dWZqN0xINlU

how I corrected?

video is private

Anyone know how I can extended the cables for the Heater (12V, 30W) on something like the MK8 printer head? Is there a special wire I need to pick up, and what sort of process does it take to solder/connect them together.

Here's the MK8 setup I had ordered for reference: http://amzn.to/1UekNyb

Reason I ask is if I go from one corner to the other in my small test setup (3' x 15" outside dimensions), the cables would have to be dragged across the surface to even barely be long enough. When I get this to it's full size of 3' x 5' (outside dimensions) there is NO way that heater wires will reach.

You'll be fine at 18ga or better, heated bed is a different story.

Awesome thanks, I'll use my good friend Amazon Prime and order some now. Thanks again for the great design.

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can i take 22 mm od tubes?

No, sorry. For right now either this one with 23.5, or the IE version with 25mm.

Can all of these parts be made on makerbot mini?

Not sure, the roller f is the tallest, the new middle z rigid is the largest otherwise.

I printed all the parts except the rigid middle z with makerbot mini. Is there some way you would recommend slicing the middle z part into 2 parts to print?

Someone has done it on the forums at vicious.com successfully. You might want to try there an see if they want to share their stl's.

I printed all the parts, except the rigid-middle on my makerbot mini. You can do without the rigid-middle if you are willing to print the middle parts from the older plans. You need to re-orient some of the items, but that is no big deal even with the Makerbot Desktop software.

Hey Allted,

I'm thinking about building this to cut polyurethane foam inserts and other things. I come from a 3d printing background and understand that side (extruding up on the z axix), but I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around milling (cutting down). Would the mpcnc be a good tool for cutting out foam? What type of head/cutting tool would be appropriate for this application if was going to cut out thick foam inserts approximately 2-4 inches? Thanks in advance!

Not really sure what you mean by foam inserts, If they are 2D inserts you might be better off with a hot wire cutter. If you are looking to do more than just foam this is the right tool.

When I say foam inserts. I'm simply saying stuff like custom foam inserts for gun cases as an example.

I think that means they are all 2D cuts correct? Hot wire cutter would be best. They are easy to make and no has made a hot wire add on for this yet, sounds like a good challenge.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1211039 This is an attachment that uses a needle to cut thin foam in a 2D pattern (for foamie ariplanes), but I think craing might be talking about machining the foam to fit a 3D shape, using a bit.

I haven't made my MPCNC yet, but I found this estlcam videos to be pretty informative. I hope they represent what using the software will be like.

http://www.estlcam.com/ - The one here where he cuts a 3D shape (a mold of a teddy bear) might help you.
http://www.estlcam.com/projekte.php - The knife block is a pretty cool demo too.

MPCNC 2826 Brushless RC Motor Foam Cutter

My 3D printer broke, and I was thinking of having a friend print out all the parts for this machine, so I could use it as a 3D printer among other things. I know it's great for wood and metal, but how good is it printing?

What layer height is it capable of and how good do the prints look? I am a bit spoiled by .1 layer height of the pritner that broke on me (monoprice flashforge/ctc clone).

I imagine I'd have quite a build area for the 3d printer.. I could print like 12" x 12" dungeon gaming tile pretty easily I imagine.

I am excited about the prospect of this being my primary 3D printer. Please let me know if this is feasible.

I'd buy the kit you're selling.. and I guess you sell a $50 extruder for it as well?

Kind of a tricky question. Technically we are running at 2 times the resolution of most printers, 32nd stepping instead of 16th. Practically this doesn't matter at all. Our prints look just like any other printers we all use the same parts. If you have ever seen a bad print it wasn't the printers fault. I have a bunch of printers running, 4 different brands, all the prints look the same.

Layer height is determined by nozzle size. The MPCNC can easily handle .1mm, as can any other printer.

Yup, have all the parts needed.

My sales pitch is this, It's a printer like all the rest, it can just be bigger, and you can mill with it when you need something other than plastic. Oh, and its pretty inexpensive.

Mar 8, 2016 - Modified Mar 8, 2016
JenniferG - in reply to Allted

Thanks for the reply. I really want to do this but I have so many questions and I don't see a web resource that carefully goes over every single detail of this project. There are so many individual resources avaialbe to read but I don't see an article that ties everything together.. Where is it? I don't know how to go about this.

Is the electronic schematic provided with your controller board? is all of the firmware , drivers & software open source? What programming language / platform? (e.g. I know ASM, C , Arduino etc).

HO wmuch for an entire kit as a 3D printer? I have no clue what to buy.. I really want to pursue this but so many questions.

Does your hardware have an sd reader and usb interface? Does it use cura? how is the wood router controlled?

Vicious1.com?
If you don't find your answers there let me know.

So what all do I need for the 3D printer? I'll buy the conduit at Home Depot and I plan on building a rock solid base with 2x4's.

I need your hardware kit with 30A power supply right? ($275) I might as well skip the 5A power supply? This will work with 110V right? Then I need to buy your printed parts kit for $190. And then the extruder head. What else? What's the spindle for? Do I need the spindle if I attach a DW660?

You only need the 30A if you are going to use a heated bed. other than what's on your list you need an extra stepper driver to run the extruder. If you buy the plastic from me you will need to select the extruder mount as the tool holder.
Yes 110V, or 220V.
The dw660 is the most common tool we use as the spindle in the U.S..

Mar 8, 2016 - Modified Mar 8, 2016
JenniferG - in reply to Allted

So the $240 kit + $190 kit (23.5 with Dw660 tool mount) + $49 extruder + ?$ extra stepper driver + conduit .. that's it?

Stepper Driver DRV8825 ? $4.95

Does the DW660 mount have a way to connect a vaccuum tube to it?

Get the extruder mount and just print your own 660 mount, or you can buy it as an add on.

Yes that's the right part. It is linked on the extruder page.

Thanks for all the help. Is all the software and firmware opensource?

Btw, what is the most common printer software used with ramps 1.4? Does it have an SD card reader or USB interface?

All of this is on the website, a bit scattered but it's there.

Are you asking about free or open source? You can use whatever you want. This is no different than any other FDM 3D printer on the market, it can just handle higher loads.

There is no most common software there are a dozen options. The ramps has a USB port, you can add anything else you want.

You might want to post your questions on the forums to get other peoples opinions other than mine. This comment section isn't the best place for a question.

I really appreciate all your help. I'll check out the forums.

This comment has been deleted.

OK, don't tell my wife, but I'm going to start printing this thing, and sneaking parts into our amazon orders. I should have this thing humming in another few months.

Seriously though, I really want to do this. Before I do, I want to make sure I won't be making a ton of parts just to find out I can't print one of the really hard ones. What's the first thing I should print? What part/assembly has the highest chance of failure? The Z parts in the middle?

I would start with the Better Middle Z, http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:931550

-old- Mostly Printed CNC -Add On- Better Middle Z
by Allted

I printed it, a bit slow, with a brim, and it was 7:20. So if I keep at that pace, it's going to be about 160 hours of printing. It looks very good, and feels strong as a rock. I'm confident I can make this thing. Thank you for your work. I will definitely be buying the hardware kit from vicious1.com.

What you need now is a mostly carved 3D printer.

Well.......I do have some plans for that. It would be a super cool project and a good way for user to try out a lot of the machines functions and a make a useful device. Something along the lines of a box frame prusa.

That would be cool. I have an i3 (wanhao duplicator) and it's been very forgiving of my novice abilities.

Maybe instead, you should make a Mostly carved CNC lathe, and then make a Mostly Turned 3D Printer. Then you'd end up with the trifecta!

Here I find KML bearings 608-RS is the same or need to be 608-2RS?

Hopefully they are just mislabeled. If they are not they only have the rubber shield on 1 side?

The two sides looks the same... and on both sides it says 608-rs KML. I only buy two of them. Should I try other site to buy or you think that can work this ones?

I'm sure you will be fine, but it's not my money to gamble with.

If you are unsure they are available on vicious1.com.

First off GREAT DESIGN! I am in the process of printing this and it looks great so far. I have a question that may have been asked but with almost 1200 comments it would take me longer to find it then it is to print it.

My question is regarding using this as a 3D printer among the other tools. Could the build platform be recessed into the table to provide a larger build height or would this cause too much wobble in the z axis? Say to give 12" of build height.

Thank you for this great design and any suggestions regarding my question.

Thanks.

It wouldn't need to be recessed you can just make longer legs, either way. Tall printing is tricky. I believe there is a video on youtube with a 12-15" printer. They have dual heads and a bowden setup, great idea! I never had too much success with print quality on a bowden but this is one of those cases where its advantages outweigh it's disadvantages!

Ok thanks, I was thinking more along the line of lowering the centre of gravity thinking that might stabilize the Z axis better... ok back to the drawing board so to speak. Thanks for you help and again, great design.

Hello
Is there anyone who has have printed it out in ABS?
How much should I scale up the parts for? because the ABS shrinks a little!

I have a Zortrax M200

Thanks in advance

And excuse my bad English!

Mar 4, 2016 - Modified Mar 4, 2016
norm8332 - in reply to Mackan108

Mine is ABS and I have no problems. It was a bit tight on assembly but it works great. With PLA I was concerned about plastic creep under stress causing looseness over time since studies have shown this in the medical field. Mine was assembled over 9 months ago and used a lot with no loosening of anything. ABS is much more resistant to creep under stress.

I printed in ABS at scale and no problem.

I printed it in ABS and didn't scale anything. The only things that were real tight was the bore for the 608 bearing in the Z motor mount, the Z nut holder and the coupling. That being said, the only reason I used ABS is because that's what I had.

Lots of people have tried it, very few have had success. Printed ABS does not shrink uniformly, so you will get bad parts, especially on the middle assembly.

If you have something against PLA (recommended), try PET.

3dEz - in reply to Allted

I printed mine in petg with great results... Looks sharp too

Hey thanks for the replies.
I printed Corner Block 2 yesterday in the 102% to test, the hole became 24mm.

I also have a Ultimaker Original. but it does not really work, that's why I thought I could print in ABS with my Zortrax.

I've had really good results with PLA. I'm ~95% finished printing. If cost is an issue, foxsmart (thefoxsmart.com, no affiliation) sells PLA for $16/Kilo + $4 US shipping per 6 kilos.

Thanks for the link, I just bought a roll to test. If it's good that price is awesome!

How is the cnc plasma cutter going? How do you wire the plasma cutter into the cnc program?

check it out in the vicious1.com forums.

Feb 23, 2016 - Modified Feb 23, 2016

Hi dear.
I printed the IE and bought 25mm OD tubes and... they shake into the rails...
I double checked the printed files and retainers (read corners) fits perfectly into the 25mm tubes, but rhe rollers rails are not tight fits. Printing dimensions are ok with just 0.05mm discrepancy from original model.
I'm not sure if the design is intened like that, but seem 0.4mm too large for the 25mm OD tubes... I tried a 1" tube and fits perfectly in the rollers but not in the corners or in the Z_motor holder, but perfectly in the Z roller cage.
Any tough?

I used to get nothing but complaints about how tight that exact same part was, I never changed the model. Now you are the second person to say to loose. I actually bought 25mm rail yesterday. I will give it a try myself later. It really must fit though there are hundreds of these out there.

Hi there, I have been printing the IE parts i.e. Corner Block V2 but my 25mm OD Chrome tubing (checked with calipers, accurate) does not fit, I measured the 3D model diameter as 25mm ID, but printing at around 24mm ID (checked with calipers),

Its beyond me how some people have successfully printed these parts and fitted them "snug". Am I doing something wrong?

Cheers, Jon

Have you tried a calibration print with some inner holes?
The parts have print tolerances built in, so you coming up a whole mm different sounds like something else is wrong. Most of the holes are at least .2mm oversized, that is the usual deviation. I can't add more because simplify 3D seems to do holes really well so if I go too big people that use that would end up with loose parts

Try a different slicer as well, some handle them better.

So I'm considering saving up and building this to compliment my 3D printer. Coming from having built a 3D printer I have one question about this device that doesn't make sense to me. Why doesn't this use mechanical switched or anything for end stops like my 3d printer? how does it know when it has reached the end in one direction and stop instead of trying to keep going?

There could be a really big answer for such an innocent question.

1) You can add them if you want, no problem.
1a) This machine starts wherever you place it. Home is where it is. If you really think about it it is easier that way.
2) Most don't use them because unlike a single use small machine we don't always work in the exact same spot. See my latest laser video and you will see the 3d printing hotbed still on the surface as I work next to it.
3) When milling you typically clamp down your work material the create a home that best suits where it is.
5)milling is upside down to 3D printing so z home is usually different unless you use the build surface as home, not the safest way to do it.

Ok cool. thanks for the quick response. Pretty much all of that makes sense except the z axis. When you start to mill something do you just lower the bit to where it touches the material? or have it all the way up? I assume its important where its home is because if i understand correctly if its too high you will be cutting air and if its too low you'll cut too deep too soon. Right?

Yup, easiest way to mill is to just touch the bit to the work surface and set that as z=0.

Makes much more sense when you try the software, or do your first milling. Watch some of the videos and it should be perfectly clear.

Feb 22, 2016 - Modified Feb 22, 2016

A stupid, but maybe not so much, question:
Would this machine be okay for milling wood of app. 100x150 (cm)? If there woul be too much flex... now the "stupid" part... how bad of an idea would it be to fill the outside tubes with cement or something like that?

Edit: Or would I simply be better off just constructing some supports?

That is very large but you should be okay with wood, a midspan support will help for sure. The outside tubes only....might be a good idea but a support I would think is easier.

Is it possibly to use it as a cnc plasma cutter or do you think I need to make a shield that the sparks and heat will stay down and a not fly up.

First one.

Working hard to work out the kinks, https://youtu.be/siJPmzG_pRU

the only problem i have is my plasma cutter once you lift it from the surface of the work piece within 7 seconds the arc turns off but if it can make fast enough to the next part not so much and issue

I just got back from the hardware store. They don't have 5/16x1-3/4" bolts. Instead, would a 5/16x2" bolt work? Would it be too long?

A few people have done it. It works but I think you need to flip one.
Such a bummer, when I first made it I check all three of my local hardware stores to make sure things were very common. This one always seems to be a problem to find though.

I need to draw a new support for the power dexter (multitool) you can have some files in a format other than STL?

Unfortunately in the Fusion stl files have no way to model them as solids
Thanks

Blank tool mounts in parasolid format, should be universal.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:805803

Mostly Printed CNC -Part- Blank Tool Holders
by Allted

Thanks ;)

Hi, Can you show the dimension information of all these parts? I want to make some modification but it is hard to measure the STL model. Thanks.

That is a giant request, and a bit unfair.

Can you be more specific?

Yes, I know, it is unfair. How about just show me the information about the z-motor-mount.stl(IE version), I just want to make the tool mounter, thank you.

I have blank tool mount parasolids available, this should make it simple.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:805803

Mostly Printed CNC -Part- Blank Tool Holders
by Allted

Thanks, I knew that, but I plan to make a tool mounter based on the Z-motor-mount.stl that does not need to drill the tubes, I think that will be easy to install and will be stable.

That would reduce the usable length of the z axis by several inches.

What happened to Camar0's Rigid Middle Z and other add-ons? I printed the parts a few weeks ago and didn't get around to sourcing some of the hardware until now, but I can't find the original images, assembly instructions, or hardware list. It looks like all of his Thingiverse designs have been removed.

He did not say anything to me.

You might want to ask him before republishing his parts. He obviously took them down for a reason.

Have you tried the machine without them? I highly suggest trying it before you fix something that might not really be a problem.

Very strange. His account and everything are completely gone. I wouldn't even know how to get a hold of him if I wanted to.

As for the parts, I had already gone to the trouble of printing them and getting the hardware together, so I wanted to get them installed before I did the final assembly. It's the only "mod" I've printed for it other than your updated parts, so I figured it wouldn't make things any worse, and it would be easier to just go ahead and put them on before I assembled everything rather than tear it apart again to try both configurations.

I am still in the process of making space in my garage for it, so I haven't done anything but some dry fitment of the parts to check for tolerances.

Files aren't available, so if anyone happened to grab the whole pack of STL's, I will reupload them along with the instructions.

Feb 13, 2016 - Modified Feb 13, 2016
amorton12 - in reply to amorton12

Here is a make that includes good pictures showing bolt orientation.
http://www.thingiverse.com/make:186314

If anyone else is interested, the Wayback machine actually preserved the zip fil containing all the STL's.

http://web.archive.org/web/20160118003244/http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1096636/zip

The names are a jumble however, so use the file sizes from the cached Thingiverse page to determine which is which.

Hi Alllted: I been following the development of your project since the beginning and it is amazing, I wondering if anyone has ever tried vertical machining with your design, Im about to start building mine, but due to space restrictions Im thinking of vertical instead of horizontal (well not 100 % vertical but maybe with a 15 to 20 angle) Thanks!!

That was one of the first things a coworker asked when I was first showing prototype parts to him.
I don't see why not, it will add some extra strain to one of your axis (probably the Y), but I think it will be fine as long as you don't try and cram one of the 1.5HP full size routers on there.

A counter weight on the belt that controls the vertical axis should alleviate most of the added stresses.

Hi, And thanks for a very nice and excellent jobb.
I have printed all the parts for the IE. Now when the building begins it turns out that all the nut traps do not fit with normal metric nuts. The traps are to big so the nuts turning around. Have I missed something ?
Everything else fits perfekt.

//Peter

I did find when assembling mine that there are two different OD of regular nuts out there for the 6-32 SAE nuts - I got one pack of screws with nuts that fit the recesses perfectly, but another bulk pack I bought has smaller nuts that spin inside the recesses. I ended up using the smaller ones in places where I could get a wrench on them, and the big ones anywhere it had to be captive.

Thanks!

What size are you using M3.5 or M4? Lock nut or regular. M3.5 lock nuts should fit. You can always glue the nuts in the traps.

Feb 6, 2016 - Modified Feb 6, 2016
PTibemo - in reply to Allted

I´m using M4 lock nuts. M3,5 is to hard to find, and it´s even smaller. I would have guest that´s the traps are done for M4,5
Nut trap for M4 should be 7mm (flat surface to flat surface). 5mm hight if lock nut and 3mm std m4 nut.

I'll have a look at it. All the nut recesses are the same size, none of the others gave you any issues? This is the first I have heard of this.

All the nut traps are to big for a normal M4 nut. But there is no problem with the size of the parts, It fit´s perfect with the tubes and bearings.

Feb 8, 2016 - Modified Feb 8, 2016
Allted - in reply to PTibemo

I'm pretty sure they should be an M3.5 and things would fit nicely.

I'm having the same problem. 3.5m is way to small for the nut traps. Even m4 nuts turn around in the nut traps. All the other measurements are correct, so this does not seem to be a problem with the calibration of my printer. A standard m3.5 nut is about 6mm wide and m4 is 7mm wide. The nut traps however are designed for 8mm...So I think it's kind of weird nobody else mentioned this before or they all just have badly calibrated printers haha. However, I just glued them in since I already printed almost every part.

Is there a better roller lock? Possibly with recessed holes, definitely with thicker holes. Mine split with minimal force!

That is the only one but it really is not structural at all. Snug screws would be more than tight enough. If you over tighten them you can actually split the roller f.

Sorry

Not a problem! I'll try to figure something out with washers.

you could tell me the measurements (length) of pipe in mm? because I do not understand what length should I do the tubes of z axis

Grazie :)

http://www.vicious1.com/assembly/conduit-rails-tubes-pipes/

There is a calculator at the bottom of that post if you want a custom size.

Perfect!
Thanks!

I found everything except the coupling nut 5/16 x 0.75 .... anywhere ... :(

Menards has them, there going to be in the area of the threaded rod.

Menards who it is?

It's a US-based hardware store. I got mine from a similar store called Lowe's. If you can find a hardware store that sells nuts, bolts, and threaded rod, they should have coupling nuts.

I am an Italian maker. I then look for a shop that sells threaded rods and nuts? there is the possibility of replacing this piece with another component easier to find? ..thanks

I'm not sure if there is a suitable substitute - you could possibly use 2 or 3 nuts instead, but I think it really does help to have the right part in this case. Wherever you bought the rest of your hardware should sell a coupling nut - it is a common item.

So I noticed you sell the parts required to make this on your site. Have you considered a customizable version? All I basically need are the fasteners, and I already have the M3x10mm screws and some of the 6/32 screws.

I have but it just takes too long. Then I have to pack custom boxes, take inventory, and order accordingly, and it would only save you $1-$2. The fasteners are not the expensive part.
Sorry

They are in Canada! I'll buy on Ebay in that case. Prices aren't great, but better than local. Thanks anyway!

thanks for your super project.
I have a question, I can use an electronic card different from Ramps? I have a card like Alligator 32bit compatible with Arduino Ramps Mega2560 or there are contraindications?

Thanks :)
Manuel

I had never seen that board before looks nice I am always a little concerned of built in stepper drivers but other than that it has it all! It says it has a marlin port available so that sounds like you will need to add all my edits to there port to get up and running, not to big of a deal.

Let me know how it goes looks cool.

I use the card already on printers that I have and it works the same as with driver Ramps 8825 but with many improvements.
Settings and fw are identical

I finish and then try to print the pieces definitely
To me it would affect only the function cutter for wood and plexiglass as 3d printers I've already 4.
I can give me some guidance particularly since they are interested in this single function?
Components that do not print or some fundamental?

Thank you
:)

thanks for your super project.
I have a question, I can use an electronic card different from Ramps? I have a card like Alligator 32bit compatible with Arduino Ramps Mega2560 or there are contraindications?

Thanks :)
Manuel

How big could I get before it wouldn't be rigid enough? Specifically, I'm thinking about making 2 - One that's a 3D printer and one that's a CNC machine. Would 8'x4' be too big of a CNC machine? If not, could I go to 8'x8'?

You can easily make surfboard blanks out of foam 10'x3'.

This gets answered about once a week. What will you be milling, how big of a tool, how fast do you expect it to got, what material, what are your expected tolerances?

As far as I know the longest conduit is 10', so that is the absolute max. You can add supports mid span under the outer rails to help make things more rigid. When it gets really big I would worry about the z direction sag before anything else. If you had a small dimension like in the surfboard example, one dimension can go huge.

Build a big one and let us know how it goes. My shop is too small.

Okay, thanks. Sorry, I did a quick google beforehand but I wasn't able to find anything.

I'm extremely tempted to make an 8'x4' CNC machine in that case. If I do, I'll post my findings!

I didn't mean to sound snippy, sorry. I just meant sometimes I answer in more details.

I think it is best if you work with half sheets, unless you really need to cut full sheet parts. But I would absolutely love to see a full sheet MPCNC!! I could pull it off in this little shop if I built it on an angle, but I really have no use for it, it would purely be for fun.

Okay, and suddenly I'm debating whether I should build 2 or just have 1 and switch out the tool.

Has anyone used aluminum tubes or rods? Would the steel bearings damage the aluminum?

Aluminum may not be stiff enough, and would be much more expensive than conduit.

Hello, Could someone share their feedrate and rpm settings for cutting acrylic ? plexiglass ?

Anyone in the UK who has made one, please could you let me know where you got your steel tube from? thanks

Has anyone done a mod where only 1 stepper I needed for the X axis. Something similar to the Xcarve?

Wouldn't work unless you added a drive shaft, that is how I was going to do it originally. Steppers are so cheap why not greatly increase your power?

Xcarve does not use a drive shaft. It uses the same belt system but only with one motor on X placed behind the gantry. It runs really fast. Mind that I love what you did but further designs could be done to reduce the Costo to the max.

Right, but this is a different geometry. It would need a drive shaft, and that would cut the power per axis in half, then you would need nema 23's. At that point 2 17's are easier and cheaper. I went through all that in the original design. Including power output of drivers and there cost.

Wondering how the Dewalt DW660 would compare to something like a compact router, like the Bosch Colt (which I currently have on hand). Initially I'm planning on doing plexiglass and cutting parts out of plywood (1/8" - 3/4"). Then eventually I want to get into cutting parts our of aluminum sheets and doing designs / inlays in a harder woods.

The length of time it takes to create something isn't a big deal to me, since I'm already use to doing things a bit slow on my 3D Printer. Would maybe the DW660 be great for all around general stuff and only need the Bosch for certain things that require a bit more power? Or maybe the DW660 can handle everything I wanna do, just have to change the speed (and bit) when I work on harder materials like Aluminum / Hard Wood.

The colt will work, there are two different mounts here on thingiverse for the colt and the MPCNC.

The colt has a little more power than the 660, but it is larger and heavier. The larger size increases the lever arm on the gantry reducing the rigidity and heavier increases moving mass reducing accelerations. That said the colt is fine, you already own one I wouldn't bother spending extra money. Rigidity is by far the most important trait of a CNC, this one has enough to handle shallow pass aluminum milling/routing. As for power the third and forth cuts I made were in aluminum 6061 3d milling with a flex shaft low power grinder. Power isn't really a problem, rigidity is always the focus.

So make the machine as short as you possibly can, and always mount you material to be cut close to the gantry. You don't have to always work on the table I always stack my material to get it as close as possible.

You should get the appropriate bits for the material and cuts you are doing. Bits are only a few dollars and are actually pretty specialized. I keep a few 2 flute endmills, 2 flute ball nose, single flute down cut for plastic and thin sheets/ply, and a some wood bits. Drillman1 on ebay has/had a starter set on ebay for under $20.

Hmm, with that it mine, I may just go with the DW660 right now (since it's only about $50) since I also plan on making one of these for a friend too. So I'll need to make one with all new parts anyways.

I'll definitely look and see what Drillman1 has to offer, thanks.

Curious, if you've seen anyone mount this to a sheet of plywood so that it can be stored hanging on a shop wall? Wonder if I could store the entire device + spindle. I was thinking something like this setup would be sweet:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=REiwGWiu_zQ

I have seen one hanging on the wall, but I think that was just a second build in progress. You could very easy do it, I would suggest not storing it with the heavy tool on it just because it is easy to remove, why store it under stress when you can remove the stress.

I have wanted to make a large one built on an angle for big wood cuts, but my current shop is much too small for that. I think this would work great if you had a short z height machine.

Jan 14, 2016 - Modified Jan 14, 2016

Just ordered the Parts bundle from your website, can't wait to start printing all the parts and getting this put together :-)

Has anyone found a good 3mm 3D Printing Hot End for this MPCNC setup? Reason being is that I have a bunch of 3mm filament sitting around for my current 3D Printer. Would love to be able to set this up as a second printer when I need to mass produce some parts.

Well I do like the direct drive mk8 style extruder setups, they work so well. Some are 3mm capable. Not the ones I usually stock, but I am looking into getting somebspare parts. The only difference in the 3mm ones is the throat, 1 small part.
On thebother hand if you want to make a bunch of parts or larger parts something like the valcano woild be much faster. Its a larger nozzle monster that lays down a lot of plastic at once. Seems like a good idea if yoibwant to mass produce things.
Let us know how it goes.

btw, is there a decent Graphics Controller you recommend? Since I noticed yours was out of stock. Maybe this one?
http://amzn.to/1N9JZMN

That will work just fine, The only issue is some need a resistor soldered on the back. If you get if and the contrast is out of wack let me know and I can help you fix it.

Sounds great, thanks. I have a ton of resistors laying around here, so I should have the right one for the job ;-)

I have found that my conduit pipes are not perfectly inline with each other on each side, does this actually effect the machine? From my testing it doesn't seem to make a massive difference as long as things are moving smoothly.

However, it is still weighing on my mind. Just want a little clarification on that. The machine I am making is large. 5'x3' ish.

Thanks

In what way?
This should get you really close, http://www.vicious1.com/assembly/frame/

The inner rails are not perfectly square. Not sure exactly how to fix it, but I will mess with it. Though I have not mounted the entire thing to a table yet, so that may be the problem.

Whilst designing my own CNC I solved a little nag that I had when leveling my MP_CNC, so have posted that part for use if any one can use
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1261340
It can be used around the sides and corners for leveling and supporting the bed, and I will incorporate into the feet or legs on my MP_CNC when time allows me to do so.

Bed Level for MostlyPrintedCNC
by Lucan07

Has anyone cut Delrin/Acetal with the MPCNC? I'm wondering how smooth the edges could be, especially for cutting sheets. Could you make puzzle pieces slide together nicely for example?

Would you mind sharing the cad files?

Not yet, sorry. I have explained in detail in these comments and in the forums why. I will release them when #2 is getting finalized.

Thanks for the reply. I figured it had been mentioned before, but with 1000+ comments here and no comment search feature...

This version is damn amazing, and inspiring. You have me excited to see V2, I didn't even know it was in the works.

Well nothing groundbreaking yet.

Just minor tweaks.

Jan 10, 2016 - Modified Jan 10, 2016

Not sure what the precision is of conduit but this could be an upgrade for tighter tolerances when used with the international versions parts... http://www.amazon.com/Polished-Finish-Precision-Standard-Tolerance/dp/B00CNM6RFA

Here's a slightly cheaper option in Aluminum. Now if I only hadn't printed all the parts for American conduit first.

Nice but $64/3', I know it seems like an easy upgrade but consider the overall moving mass and do you really need .0001" resolution? I am not trying to be negative but it is really easy to upgrade every single part on this machine, start with the stock machine and then evaluate if you really need better?

Aluminum might easily wear out rolling against hardened steel bearings. I would stick with steel.

If mine prints better than any of my 6 3d printers I feel the resolution is outstanding. They all use polished rods, my mpcnc uses $7/10' conduit. There is something to be said for rigidity.

Ordered my electronic kit! Went and checked out the conduit today, everything around me seems to have a weird coating on it that's incredibly rough. Is this the same conduit you are using? Home Depot and Lowes call it "texture" - its a clear coating over bare metal.

That should just be a zinc coating that comes off with an hour or so of use.

Normal

Awesome. I like the idea of it being slider, and I know some camera sliders with bearings use carbon fiber, and I think it's the same cost as what I listed above for the carbon. I wonder if it would survive the number of passes but it would be incredibly accurate, much stiffer, and weigh as much as air.

Could you measure the diameter of the OD of the conduit after the coating has worn off?

Jan 15, 2016 - Modified Jan 15, 2016
Allted - in reply to mrarmyant

Mine are being torture tested. One of them has just been printing the roller f part continously for almost 3 months my measurements would be pretty bad.

You should aim for either 23.5mm or 25 for the IE version.

I feel the point load of these bearings would be much higher and cause delamination, pretty fast.

I would love for you to try it out though, if it works it would be a pretty slick upgrade.

Wow these accept a good range then. What's the desired size you think for the US version?

That is a radial load, we use point loads. And di you see the price.
Conduit is $3.50/10' and works perfectly. I wouldn't bother. You can always pay for better, but diminishing returns is very clear in the cnc world.

I highly reccomend using it as is, first. You can't call something an upgrade if you have no baseline to compare it to. There are plenty of "upgrades" that haven't been compared against the stock machine. Most actually work but I doubt they actually have real world benefits. So why spend the time and money.

That is not a range, one or the other. I don't want to give a range that would cause a lot of issues for me. Just know it is a litte forgiving, as it wears in you can snug things up.
Like I said i run one 20 hours a day for about 3 months there is plenty of wear but it still prints really well.

Did you ever thinked of using LM25UU Bearing's?

Sure, and then you look at the price of those bearings and the polished rods, and the tools to cut hardened steel. At that point you might as well get a small HASS Mill.

Good point ;) never thinked about that. I thought that the bearing easily slide in normal steel pipe.

First off thank you for the design.

Could you please tell me how smoothly is it supposed to slide on the rails? I have the whole frame assembled, and all the electronics will be in tomorrow. I am having a hard time figuring out, if my rails are smooth enough. I can hand move it quite well, with little resistance. However, it is not as smooth as building say a reprap axis with the chromed rods.

I expect this machine to not be as smooth.

Please let me know.
Thank you

There will be lots of rolling resistance. But make sure you followed the directions and didn't tighten everything down, especially the tension bolts that have plastic on both sides of the bearings.

The plastic will give a bit and the zinc coating will wear off and things will be much smoother after a little use. then if things are too loose you can snug up the tension bolts.

Make sense?

Jan 7, 2016 - Modified Jan 7, 2016

I have a 5ftx10ft CNC Plasma table I have been trying to finish for years. Problem is I have to use a 2x2 CNC plasma to cut the size panels out for the gantry. Do you think this would hold up to a mount for a Hypertherm machine or hand torch? Maybe if some sort of shield was around it to keep from any blow back from coming towards the main Z? I'm using ABS for the more simple parts and PETG for the ones requiring precision. I guess I could try to design a torch mount if anyone is interested.

I was looking into buying a cheap plasma torch a few weeks ago, and then we started to get crappy weather. I would need to do cuts outside, so I put that on hold.

I don't see why it wouldn't be able to handle that at all. Hardest part is dealing with the trigger.

I would love to see you do this! I want a plasma cutter, and a Tig welder And I would be very happy with my shop!

That's interesting I have the exact opposite worry. I have a hyperhterm 45 and 100, there is a fair amount of splatter that comes up from peirce cuts. The cut material also retains heat. And we aren't talking minor heat like 240c, we are talking 1000c+, granted it cools as its being blown into the air. Possibly drilling and tapping holes in the bottom of the z would allow for a light duty aluminum shield to be bolted on that is the profile of the overall assembly.

The trigger however can be disconnected on the machine side and connected to a relay controlled by the computer. It's just a momentary switch in the handle that runs back to a relay in the machine! A machine torch is much much easier, and what I wanted for my large table, but adds another 500 bucks when I already have the hand torch. I'm printing my CNC now and will be placing an order for the electronics then will let you know how it goes!

So cool. I bought a solid state relay anticipating the switch/trigger sounds like I did the right thing.

So for that shield you could do a downward facing cone, or maybe some wire mesh? You are making me jealous, maybe I can invest in a cutter after taxes. Can't wait to see it in action.

I'm thinking just quite literally a flat piece of aluminum, say 1/16th thick. That would be plenty and just needs to make sure that any upward spatter stops there. There isn't a lot of force, it's just hot. Hopefully your taxes are in your favor!

Crude mount but looks effective. http://arnnworx.com/images/17_small.jpg

Watch some videos of CNC plasma cutting and watch the pierces. I once put a chop saw blade on a circular saw made for wood (lots of plastic) the entire thing was unusable after about 4 cuts. Ran across http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:176587, but no comments on it actually working. Have you tried the heavy duty dewalt router on this? Might get that to machine a handle mount out of aluminum then use that for the plasma cutter to finish the large plasma cutter that I was originally building to make a tube bender...

HF Plasma Cutter handle mount
by jacktar
Jan 7, 2016 - Modified Jan 7, 2016
Allted - in reply to mrarmyant

So for me, doing basic cuts on thin stock, wanting to stick with 120V your cutter (about $1500?) is over kill right ? I see so many cheepie plasma's around $500. Is there something I'm missing or you think I'll be okay with a basic cutter?

Jan 7, 2016 - Modified Jan 7, 2016
mrarmyant - in reply to Allted

I got mine new for 1200, a hypertherm 30 can be had for less. There are some really decent Chinese vendors out there now, but they all tend to over rate the cutters, hypertherm is the only one that under rates. Also one of there employees, Jim Colt, has a huge online presence and is incredibly supportive. The two things with tools to remember are a) at some point you will always wish you went bigger and b) when you do need to go bigger, what's the resale value of the tool you originally bought?

I almost bought a chinese one, I purchased my hypertherm about 4 years ago and could still sell it for close to what I paid for it. The support has been phenomenal. And there are always replacement parts if something goes wrong.

I think they just came out with a 30 XP, and I know it does both 110/220. That would be a super handy unit and would always have an incredible long term value. There is also one with built in air which is quite cool. Welders Supply Co has some good deals, ( I think that's where I got mine.) but I can definitely tell you after having used about 10, and owned 3, plasma cutters you get what you pay for. And if times are tough unloading the Porsche of Plasma is way easier than finding a buyer for a Tut Tut.

Nice, thanks!

The dewalt dw660 has plenty of power for aluminum, and a smaller moment arm than the larger routers. Stiffness/rigidity is the enemy of this machine not power. So as small of axis as possible especially the Z axis. No need for larger motors or spindles.

I would start with a printed mount and the metal shield. I think it would be fine. I mean the hand piece is wrapped in an injection molded ABS cover right?

A mount should be super easy, mounting the cable in a way that it would not tug on the gantry as it moves is the biggest concern. It has been at least a year since I touched a plasma cutter so I don't remember how stiff that cable bundle really is.

How small are we talking? I could always have a set of small milling tubes and a 2ftx2ft set of plasma.

It's not horribly stiff but could be a problem. You would probably sip tie it so it leaves the Z vertically and have it suspend from the top. Typically the hand torch lengths are around 25ft so plenty of room for this.

If you can manage that cable bundle well enough you can do a giant build with a 6"-8" Z no problem. The hand piece is very light and not sensitive to minor movements. I think a 4'x4' would be completely within reason, or something like a 3'x6' even. Plasma is the one area I think you could do an even larger build with no issues if you put a support mid length on the outer rails. I believe there are a few 4x8 builds out there for wood sheets but no picture evidence yet. The forces on that would be huge compared to a plasma.

So a common issue with CNC plasma is acceleration - do you know what max acceleration of this unit with the 72oz steppers is?

My default conservative accelerate is 400mm/s and that is set for the dw660. It can easily be turned up for something as light as a plasma torch.

This comment has been deleted.

so If I want full clean 1000x1000mm workspace my measurement should be 1260x1260 to compesate the XY axis correct?

That's pretty close. GeoDave made this Calculator that gives tons of info.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:948320

Mostly Printer CNC / Multitool Layout Size Calculator
by GeoDave

What a great design. I have a couple of questions. What's the largest build volume you can get with this setup? I looking to do something like 4' x 8'.

This comes up a lot, for a more detailed answer you can probably just search these comments.

But in a nut shell, it depends on what you want to cut at that size, and the tolerances you need. I wouldn't plan on aluminum. If you go large I suggest adding a support somewhere on the span of the outer rails. But technically yes it is easily doable.

I have 60feet of sch40 stainless 3/4 pipe. The o.d. Is 26.67. Is there enough flex in the design to squeeze it into the 25mm prints

No sorry, It causes miss alignment issues. Even 25.4 hasn't worked out.

Wow that right huh. How big could you go with conduit before it stars to flex n vibrate

I always suggest going slightly larger that you largest anticipated work piece. The answer depends on what tollerances you need.

The largest would be 36x36 cutting space. Mostly with 1/4in aluminum sheets. I've never played with conduit but friends are telling me I would get a good amount of bouncing if the tool head started to chatter while cutting closer towards the center.

Your cuts would be 36" or the sheets? If you are making small parts you can build the machine a bit differently (clamping it on top of the sheets) and be fine.

Your friend has one of these? The video of me cutting the aluminum motor mount is on a 36"x24". If you haven't tried it I wouldn't count it out. Use the minimum z distance you can and I don't see a problem. I have a new dw660 mount that makes the bit to gantry distance 20mm shorter, shorter = more rigid = faster cuts.

I was aiming for my largest part to be 36x36. But I have a nice hard wood work desk I plan to make the cnc fit. No my friend dose not have one he is a commercial electrician n just thought the conduit was a little weaker. But I'm definitely going with your design. I downloaded the files last night. Is the updated dw660 file in there? Also how much working space do you get out of the overall corner to corner frame? Say I make x axis 30 inches how much should I subtract to get the working space?

36x36 butting area for aluminum is asking a lot. I think it will work, but I can't promise. It is worth a try though, the only other way to cut that big is a plasma table or a water jet, any mill with that big of an envelope would cost more than a water jet.

There is a calculator linked at the end of this page to help you out, but it does not account for the spindle. it was made when we were using the fordom style tool.

yea, well that was worst case lol but I decided to go with mounting it on my one of my work benches I'm not using, over all frame size will be 30in x 60in. so I'm guessing from what I have read, ill be in the ball park of 28x52 working space, do you think it could support a DeWalt DWP611? if that's a possibility that would be amazing

Jan 2, 2016 - Modified Jan 2, 2016
Camar0 - in reply to Thebak3

My build has 50x50 cut area with 60x60 rails and works fine. All total I spent $50 modifying my rails, z angle, and adding the rigid middle parts. Good luck with your build!

Thebak3 - in reply to

awesome! thank you!

I think the 611 is complete over kill, the 660 is smaller, lighter, shorter moment arm, and has way more than enough power. Lots of factors when moving a tool other than HP. 611 gives more power but decreases rigidity.

very true, ill take your advice! Ill be ordering your hardware/electronics kit on the 14th from your website!

Planning on making this to cut panels for my printer enclosure.

How easy is it to disassemble for storage?

I live in a not-so-big apartment and only have space to set it up for temporary use. Would I be able to disassemble each axis without de-tensioning the belts? That way I would have a collection of 6 poles and the center carriage that I could store away in a closet.

Not impossible but not real easy either. Best to mount it to a board and then hang it on the wall or something.

I am having a problem with my motors sticking or catching even when moving them by hand when powered down.

When I disconnect the motors from each other they run perfectly smooth which I think pretty much eliminates a mechanical issue, but when I wire them in parallel with the connector they start to stick every 10 mm or so. This problem persists when I run them with repetier through an arduino mega and RAMP 1.4 and DRV 8825 (recommended setup from the site.)

Could this be due to the mismatch in inductance for the two motors on the same axis? I would expect to see other people commenting on this if it was so.

Dec 30, 2015 - Modified Dec 30, 2015
Allted - in reply to jwrightzz1234

That is normal. They act as generators when you move them and they actively fight back. It means you are wired perfectly.

When I power the motors and run them in manual mode after about 100mm the motors will stick or stagger. I have tried to change the speed, change the current on the driver but it hasn't made a difference.

One thing to note that seemed a bit odd was that after jogging the motor maybe 400mm the heat sink will start to get hot to the touch. The current on the driver is set to 2 amps.

My motor ratings are 2 amps per phase, is the current setting on the driver enough to run the system?

Your drivers are set wrong. You didn't give any specifics on what steppers or drivers so please look up your drivers and how to set them properly. The steppers should have a voltage and amperage rating. You will nees to convert that to watts and then find the voltage for that pot based on 12v and you drivers equation.

Dec 30, 2015 - Modified Dec 30, 2015
MishaT - in reply to jwrightzz1234

Sounds like a short in your wiring, or you accidently crossed coil pairs when wiring.

Has anyone tried sanding or polishing the conduit? I quick sanded with 220 grit paper to knock down the major bumps and it seemed to help reduce the noise at least.

3dEz - in reply to MishaT

Yes, I used some steel wool (same used to polish cooking pans) and they look really shiny. Obviously the zinc is gone now so I coated with oil.

That coating is just zinc (soft) over relatively smooth steel. It comes right off after a half hour or so of ruining by itself.

Hello, do you have any ideas as how to how I can mount a Proximity Sensor near the nozzle so that I can perform auto bed leveling? (I have been having issues printing due to undeveloped print bed).

A few things.
If you are printing right on the waste board you can just mill it flat and then your surface is pretty perfect.
If you are printing on a heated bed take the time to level it, the prints come out better. It should be easy if it is on springs.

If you don't want to do either of those. This seems to explain it well, http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:539692 a mount should be very easy to fab up.

How to install an Inductive Proximity Sensor for Auto Bed Leveling

Thanks for the speedy reply!

Good day. Sorry to here this engine will fit instead of your engine "PL42H48-D5" mm, 5.5 kg. cm, 5mm shaft, current 2.4 A, step 1.8°.??

Good day. Sorry but this engine will fit instead of your engine. "PL42H48-D5" mm, 5.5 kg. cm, 5mm shaft, current 2.4 A, the step of 1.8°.

As long as it is a nema 17, it fits. that looks like a 42oz/in though make sure it is at least that strong, that is as small as you should go.

Awesome design! Ideas are a dime a dozen but to take an idea and turn it into reality is priceless. Then to polish it up and share it with everyone else is outstanding. I just started my build and I read in another post you were working on v2. Would you mind sharing any of the updates you're thinking about? I may incorporate those into my build as I go. I would suggest to others out there planning on printing their parts to test fit as they go. I had to reprint about 20hrs due to my printers configuration, there is some tight tolerances on some of the parts.

Thanks!
V2 is just getting started. I am working on the very first piece. That means I have a long way to go, and a ton of prototype parts to print. As of now it will require a whole new set of printed parts but I am doing my best to keep the hardware the same. Maybe switch the 3/4" screws for 1", but screws are cheap.

what are dimensions of 25mm metal rods? I can't find any information how long they are in standard project...

Hi, nice looking design.
I have some stainless tubimg. Ø22mm OD and some Ø19 OD and was wondering if you had the original cad files to share.
I find trying to modify .STL's is almost easier to redraw.
I can use most solid files.

many thanks

Allted - in reply to Bixx

Sorry. I am not ready to give out the files yet.

I have given my reasons for this many times in these comments and on the forums but it boils down to, these are easy files to create for someone with CAD abilities. This also slows down the influx of poorly designed, or incorrectly designed parts. When I first released these files so many people just started combining stl's and changing dimension making totally non printable parts. Then I get stuck trying to help people troubleshoot them.

I would not suggest using smaller bars. If you do make a smaller version please respect my release licenses.

Bixx - in reply to Allted

Hi Allted,
thanks for taking the time to reply.
I respect your reasons and have no intention of abusing your licenses.

Does anything adjust on the bearings slide to take up slack around the conduit, or does the 3d print just need to be very exact?

The parts are intentionally undersized, to take up the initial flex. Then there is one bolt on each part that controls tension, the one with plastic on both sides of the bearing.

Good day. I really liked your design! And I decided to do it. I am a novice. Please tell me.The pipe is 25mm and the length is 500mm all? And another question can I replace the stepper motors you used on "17HS8401 Nema 17 or Nema 17 17HS4401"?

Here is a calculator to figure out lengths.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:948320

Any NEMA 17 will work. The stronger the better, the ones you linked are as small as I would go.

Mostly Printer CNC / Multitool Layout Size Calculator
by GeoDave

Огромное спасибо. Кое что не понятно но разберусь. Значит двигатели в принципе можно и другие но схожие с параметрами ваших двигателей. Буду искать. Еще раз спасибо. Поеду трубы закупать.

Google translate to the rescue!

Please post a picture when you are finished.

Definitely going to unsubscribe. And ask questions as you build. I'm a beginner. But the 3D printer has already mastered.

if one was going to make an externally powered heat bed for this large size 3d printer, how would one go about doing it? any ideas or suggestions?

For something standalone you could use a PID with a SSR. Search ebay for more info. Allted uses a second ramps (i think?). I thought about using radiant floor heaters powered by the ssr/pid for truly large format heat bed but youd still fight warping unless your in a heated build chamber. Just my 2c.

Yea, that looks like a solid idea, but how were you able to build or where did you buy the heater? were you planning to build the floor heaters around the build area, or from underneath? i have a glass mirror, almost 2 foot square building area. my thought was something akin to a reptile heating pad, but of course able to heat to the higher temps.

Dec 21, 2015 - Modified Dec 21, 2015
Camar0 - in reply to Jimmystanley37

More relevant info:

http://airtripper.com/698/resistance-wire-heated-build-platform-diy-tutorial/

http://www.projectsbyzac.com/843/reprap-3d-printer/large-3d-printer-heated-bed-build-platform-issues

Or buy 9x MK2B heated beds off Aliexpress for $57 shipped from china and build an array of 9x 8"x8" heat beds wired to relay(s). ;) That sounds the easiest to me.

Hi Allted

Trying to get the lost homing distance using your suggested router and components? Table 36" x 36" = 30" x 30"? Having issue importing STL in SW to assemble the table.

Thanks
DGP

Not sure what the question is?

Sorry , with the tool offset, how much machining area do I have? if the tool is at x0,y0 on 36"x36" table how much machining area do I have?

Thank
Dave

Depends on the size of your spindle. Both of mine are printing parts right now but I can check in the morning. You lose somewhere around 7 inches with the dw660.

Hi,

Do you recommend an enclosure for the Full Graphic Smart Controller sold on your website?
I read there are different case dimensions and I want to make sure I print the right case.

Thanks,

Dec 19, 2015 - Modified Dec 19, 2015
Director - in reply to Pyramids

I do not have Allted's specific Full Graphic Smart Controller, but for mine I used this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:789899/#files. I put the Arduino/Ramps and a fan in an old Radio Shack box I had laying around and just bolted the LCD case to it. These posts have some photos. My LCD looks very similar to Allted's and doubt there are big differences in the dimensions.
http://www.vicious1.com/forum/topic/placement-of-electronics/#post-4376
http://www.vicious1.com/forum/topic/cosx2y2-milled-in-wood-post-1/#post-4673

Probably a good idea to measure the STLs in Sketchup or another CAD program to check some of the dimensions.
SteveC

Robo3D RepRap display with capacitive touch

oh wait you mean the LCD....I'm working on that right now.

My printers are all busy trying to full some christmas orders. I will release it as soon as I have printed and tested it.
Trying to make it match the ramps case.

Yes, the LCD. I just got it in the mail today. I look forward to your design.

I'm pretty partial to this one.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1183975

Ramps 1.4 Cover
by Allted

Hi Allted, Passing inch to 3/4 inch millimeters would measure 19.05mm is correct? tubes are 19.05mm original version?

Conduit is measured by the inside diameter. The OD is about 23.5mm

That has just screwed me over, I ordered 3/4 tubing to find it far too small. I have never heard of anyone measuring it from the inside without stating ID.

Thanks Allted!

Dec 16, 2015 - Modified Dec 16, 2015

these pieces work in 25.4mm tubes that get in Argentina.

No, sorry.

Please look into stainless steel tubes, or look at ebay for 25mm OD.

Dec 16, 2015 - Modified Dec 16, 2015
ramirou - in reply to Allted

In Argentina we have restrictions for foreign purchases, buy in ebay is not an option, the international version will not work with 25.4mm tubes?

Furthermore as 3/4" in millimeters it is equal to 19.05mm?

25.4 will not work it has been tried many times.

Look into 25mm OD stainless steel, it is very common. Used for boats, restrooms, closet rods. Make a few phone calls, all the metal suppliers here can get 25mm, but for us the emt is much cheaper.

3/4" emt is rated by the ID.

The only country to have a size issue so far are parts of australia. You should physically measure anything your hardware store has.

Thank you, keep looking .... for now I only found 25.4

Hello Allted, again congratulations on the prize !!! I make a query, I want to make the machine milling wood, my idea is to make traveling on the axes 1 meter x 50 or 80 cm, will be sufficiently rigid in these measures?

No problem.

Check out the website for more details.
vicious1.com

Felicitaciones!!!! por el premio, totalmente merecido...una gran maquina...la estoy construyendo...muy buen aporte!!!

Thank you, the grand prize is determined sometime this month. keep your fingers crossed!

Good luck on the build

Hey Allted thanks again for a great design and project!
I've finally got my cnc completely assembled and wired up that I bought as a kit from you. I downloaded Repetier Host yesterday to try and do a test run of an STL file. But after slicing and everything for some reason the X-axis goes straight across and the motors don't stop until it keeps hitting the side of the machine. I am assuming I have to set up the parameters within Repetier Host for the size of the working area but I'm not sure how to do that. The cnc is 3'x3'. If you or anyone else in this forum has a solution that would be greatly appreciated!

All the settings are on this page.
http://www.vicious1.com/import-extruder/
That might help explain this better.

Okay great thanks for the quick reply! I'll be sure to try it out later tonight

Sounds like it is trying to home before it starts. You need to take that out.
You should take out all the beginning gcode, and use this as the end

G91
G1 E-5
G1 Z5
G90
M104 S0 T0 ; turn off temperature
M104 S0 T1 ; turn off temperature
M140 S0
M84 ; disable motors

Is there any modifcations to include some gears at the motors output to get a little bit more precision?

What kind of precision are you looking for?
The step size of the sets sold at vicious1.com is .oo5mm for the X and Y axis, much higher for the Z. Those steps are so small inconsistencies in the rails are probably larger.

first of all thank you for the real quick response, I was looking for to use it for PCB milling among other things and I didn't see as many repercussion for this application.

The hardest thing about pcb milling is mounting the boards extremely flat. There should be no issues with step resolution, Make the machine small and rigid and you will be fine, if you can get the raw pcb's flat.

This comment has been deleted.

Hi,

Thanks for great, useful CNC building. I know it is multitool but I want to use it with easy changeable tool holder. I mean that First, I draw some shapes with pen and then I cut them from outer border via laser diode. So laser head and pen holder should mount easy on Z axis.
If it is has a click part or two bolts, it will be good. I hope, understand me

Allted - in reply to ase

I'm pretty sure that actually has been made. Check out the remixes for inserts that fit in the standard tool holder.

Link to Metric parts list is borked...

Hi,

What is the conduit's length that you use (include the length of conduit who isn't visible) ?
And what surface is it possible to work with ?

If i want to make a 50*50cm CNC, the conduit must be around 60cm, is it ok ?

Thanks in advance

Any size you want.

There is a calculator GeoDave made, linked at the end of that page.

http://www.vicious1.com/assembly/conduit-rails-tubes-pipes/

Ok. Thanks for the informations.
I will watch all of this.

Did anyone try Nema 23 Motors with T2.5 belts? The motors i have, have already mounted T2.5 pulleys on them. I would like to use these belts:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-5Meter-T2-5-Timing-Belt-width-6mm-Pitch-2-5mm-with-steel-core-T2/1758387649.html?spm=2114.01020208.3.40.8A9qh7&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_1_79_78_77_80,searchweb201644_0,searchweb201560_1

Does anybody know how well these belt pulley system works?

leo69 - in reply to Scenz

I would stick with 17's. If anything.Just get the bigger 17 steppers and try to find drivers that will power them to their full potential. The 4988 drivers leave the x and y steppers a little under powered because they're wired in parallel. I'm running 3amp tb6560 drivers with big heatsinks on them. This is plenty of juice for my 17's.

Scenz - in reply to leo69

Well i have them already so i would try them first. I've just orderd some TB6600 to drive them. On the Z-axis i'm going to use one nema 17 which i also already have.

Dec 11, 2015 - Modified Dec 11, 2015
Camar0 - in reply to Scenz

I like your plan with the tb6600s. I'm running 1x drv8825 12.5v at 1.54a currently per motor. I can rapid faster than the cnc router parts 4x4 standard kit (18,000 mm/min vs 15,000). I'm going to bump it up to 2.2a and 40v when I finish modding my hp 600pb power supplies. With the 6600 you could even use the esp120 if you dialed down the voltage below 50v.

17vs23 depends on your size and goals for the machine. No doubt 17 is fine for most but there are a large range of machine sizes being built here. Im very happy with 23s moving my 5' rails. The belts will limit your rated working loads so reference the charts.

Allted - in reply to Scenz

It will work just fine, you will need to recalculate each axis step per mm in the firmware though.

Careful you can rip the machine apart with 23's, it has already happened.

Dec 9, 2015 - Modified Dec 9, 2015
Camar0 - in reply to Allted

Which part did they break?

I've crashed my setup into the ends a handful of times for various reasons and even milled through a steel screw without breaking it. I'm still using the carbide bit that plunged through the screw head at full speed and it seems okay. The 9mm GT2 belts just start hopping when I hit the ends. I used the mechanical belt tightener add on to attach my belts with eyelets if that makes any difference. The tension is pretty tight. I would have to say end stops are a good idea with the 23s.

Allted - in reply to

Not sure, pretty sure it was in the forums. He built it and first thing he did was hit home all. Said he was rebuilding it with 17's.

Guys, why 3/4" is 23.2 or 25mm, 25.4mm is 1 inch. How come 3/4" is equivalent to 25 mm? I'm building this machine using SI unit but 25mm is very big. Luckily i still did not buy the frame.Somebody can clarify this?

Nov 30, 2015 - Modified Nov 30, 2015
Camar0 - in reply to msidris

EMT, RMC, sch 40, sch 80, whatever spec international uses all give a wall thickness and diameter. Someone else may have a better explanation for the international specs.

http://www.atc-mechanical.com/tube-pipe-101/tube-pipe-size-overview/

Nov 25, 2015 - Modified Nov 25, 2015

Great design and execution I am only critical of one small thing, the tool mount is simple but restrictive and I do not like the idea of removing and remounting for different tools plus came up very tight using 8mm Leadscrew with Flanged Nuts.
My solution which is rough to say the least is to have a quick release mount so I can have many different tools attached to back plates with plugs so that moving from Print Head to Milling Head or Laser Head etc would be as simple as
1) Unplug electrical
2) Slide out current head
3) Slide in new Head
4) Plug in electrical
5) Check calibration and continue to etch print engrave or mill as required.
My design is basic but should work but if a standard quick release were available then mounts could be designed onto the stock back plate and shared very simply and quickly.
I am proficient in Many programming languages from COBOL to Visual Studio but do not have time to learn CAD tio the extent I would like at this time so use simple tools like tinkercad to produce prototypes when playing. My attempt is here but if someone with CAD experience produced a standard unit I would prefer to use that.
I have posted my attempt on here as an example rather than for people to use.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1156014

Mostly Printed CNC QR Toolmount
by Lucan07
Nov 24, 2015 - Modified Nov 24, 2015

Hi Allted,
great design, simple and clean! Thanks a lot for sharing this with the community, giving everyone a chance to build their own machine.
Meanwhile I'm building my own here in China and I'm thinking on translating your instructions in chinese, would be cool to raise an army of MPCNC.

Allted - in reply to XiaZ

Thanks for the kind words. Have at it, build a couple, I did!
If you do end up translating it I would love to link to it or put it on the site. We have German and Spanish so far.

what pc options to run the MPCNC is everyone using?

awesome desgign!

I'm wondering has anyone tried to make this machine very large?

i need to be able to cnc a full 4ft by 8 ft sheet of plastic...

I'm wondering if the emt conduit is rigid enough for that span? Is there any other material with the same outer dimension that would easily
be adopted in it's place for strength?

Thanks in advance.

Nov 22, 2015 - Modified Nov 23, 2015
Allted - in reply to mikebaier

I am really not sure how it will do at that size. You can put some supports on the outer rails to increase rigidity if needed but plastic is pretty mellow to cut and might not need them. If you are interested in cutting all the way through you might be okay. It is the depth that I would be most concerned about changing on a 3d profile.

The only other rails I know of are stainless steel pipes or boat rails. They might be more rigid but I can't say for sure.

I don't really have the space right now to build a full sheet machine or I would give it a try. This question gets asked once a week or so. So if you try it out let me know how it works so I can see if any changes need to be made.

Hi, may I ask you for some advise about limit of the Z axis. I have all the part printed out. I want to build a 3d printer with a E3D V6 hotend. and want to get a X and Y axis for 24"x24", but I am not sure how tall I can go with this frame. I am thinking about something like 24" tall for the Z axis. I it possible to go that tall? or it is design to be short for CNC mill only? Thank you.

Dec 18, 2015 - Modified Dec 18, 2015
3dEz - in reply to prozix

For printing big, consider the E3D V6 Volcano. It has a different heatbreak/nozzle with larger volume hot end and was designed for extruding high plastic volume fast. It was designed for printing very large parts. You will probably need a geared extruder too. You can find an eBay clone cheap and with a couple of hours of prep work (polishing barrel, seasoning, etc) it should work fine.

Thank for the information. I plan to use large extruder 1.2m to print only large model. I think I may have to reduce the Z Axis to 8" and find another solution for the taller, but smaller base for my next printer ( an up and down bed for example ). I am wondering what is the maximum speed your printer can go for a decent quality print. Thank again for your advise.

To clarify, the largest I have done is 8". I can easily go much larger but I can not comment on to how fast you can move. Actually I believe you have to move a bit slower that that large of a nozzle to be able to melt the filament required anyway.

Please try it.

24" seems a bit much, honestly I have not tried anything over 8". 24" is possible but you would probably have to print very slow to reduce "ringing" in your prints.
I suggest starting shorter and deciding from there. 24" would take a very long time to print unless you use a large extruder nozzle.

Which pipe length would i need to get an work area of around 45cm * 45cm ?

The recommended build gets you just about 500x500. http://www.vicious1.com/assembly/conduit-rails-tubes-pipes/

If you want to cut it down, GeoDave made an awesome calculator here, http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:948320

Mostly Printer CNC / Multitool Layout Size Calculator
by GeoDave

Hi,

I've printed most part of this machine and begin to install, but I am not sure how to install the axis Z, is the 5_16 coupler nut installed in z_nut_lock? is the 5_16 coupler nut necessary? and what is the usage of the spring between 5_16 coupler nut and 5_16 nut? And what to adjust by Z adjust knob? Can you show me the video of axis Z movement? Thanks.

Regards,
ZhangZQ

http://www.vicious1.com/z-nut-lock/

The coupling nut is necessary, the spring and second nut is not. they are used for a crude anti backlash/slop remover.

The z adjust knob adjust the height of the z axis.

It will all make sense when you get it assembled.

I just finished assembling your MPCNC and it really looks awesome! Many thanks for sharing. Regarding Z tower I installed the upper coupling nut with the spring and the second nut as you advised on your website at http://www.vicious1.com/z-nut-lock/ and the Z carriage seems to flow with a slight friction due perhaps to the many bearing used, so when I move the Z axis up and down with the software the Z axis motor heats up so much as if it have to make a greater force than the one for the movement that has to fulfill to the Z carriage. I hope I was clear in the description of this issue, any help is really appreciated.

loosen up the spring or take it out completely

Allted, thanks, your project is very great. It is more clear for me to install the z-nut-lock part, but I still don't understand the usage of the spring and the nut, however I will install it first, And I still don't know how the z adjust knob to adjust the height of the z axis.

Did anyone use petg to print the parts?

Nov 7, 2015 - Modified Nov 7, 2015
Director - in reply to Scenz

PETG is now my goto plastic for mechanical assemblies. I started out with PLA and some ABS but after I got a spool of PETG from the Microcenter I printed the rest of the Z assembly in it including Allted's newer Middle_Z_rigid, all of Camar0's Rigid_Middle_Z assembly and my Makita tool holder. PETG has excellent interlayer bonding, has the flexibility of ABS and does not have the brittleness of PLA. It warps less than ABS but I did have had one part pop off the build plate due to insufficient contact area. I suggest an 80C build plate, Aquanet hairspray and a 4mm brim. Also a bit of aluminum foil can help to keep the chamber warmer depending on your printer. I did some destructive testing of some PLA and PETG parts and the PETG was much stronger. It interestingly does not break apart on layer boundaries but seems to tear apart randomly. PETG does string a lot so you need to keep your nozzle clean or it will accumulate globs of black plastic. All my parts were printed with 0.3mm layers on a Kickstarter Robo3D.
-SteveC

How stiff was the PETG after you printed it? I'm not sure if it will be rigid enough. My taz 5 warps ABS like it's going out of style and PLA doesn't work for crap in it.

Allted - in reply to Scenz

That is my favorite material but you need to make sure you are getting no warping and the dimensions are good.

5 parts to print and I will got it ^)

I want to make full video assembly instruction on my YouTube channel, can I do it? of course I will give all your links. And video'll be for Russian speakers.

Please do! Many have tried, no one has done it yet. We did get one time lapse, that was pretty good.

Ok, hope I will have everything I need to next weekend.

Channel name, please)

nice project, has anyone try this as a laser cutter instead of cnc?

This is the best cnc design i think i've seen. just amazing! i am now a fan, thanks so much!!!! :D

Thank you!
Give it a try.

ok, so i am using simplify 3dand the base of my prints, using PLA, are the correct dimensions and measurements, but as it builds up, the Z gets smaller. The top of a 20mm calibration cube measures 20mm across the bottom of the X axis and 19.35mm across the top of the x axis. the bottom of the Y axis 20mm and the top is 18.35mm. the Z axis measured on the X axis side is 20mm, and pretty close to 20mm (+-.15mm). it looks like its building a pyramid.

I've printed all my bits using S3D v3.02 without the issue you're experiencing. I suggest performing some calibration prints first. There's also known issues with S3D v3+ so troll the S3D forum and make sure you've got all your settings correct. The biggest problem is to do with retraction.
https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewforum.php?f=9&sid=88e38dfa4a602a1f9873c18146652a74
https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=3536&hilit=retraction

One of two things could be wrong. Either slow down your print, or go a few degrees hotter on your extruder.

ok, now all of a sudden i have max temp error. it has been fine up till now, but now my extruder is shooting up super hot? checked all the wires, they seem fine. firmware hasn't been changed?

Thermistor problem

i figured it was the thermister. it's brand new. so can i jump it like you did with the resistor, or do i have to have it to get the correct temps on the hotend?

Have to have it. Check it for resistance. its either broken wire, wire is shorted, or therm is shot. Did you check to make sure it is in the hole?

can i repace the thermister with a thermocoupler? will it still work the same or would it need gcode edits? i have a spare thermocoupler, but no extra thermisters

You have a 1 in 13 chance you won't need to edit your firmware.

So, 1 in 13 chance it will work with a thermocouple instead of the thermistor? I'm ordering new thermistor just in case, but wanted to test it with a thermocouple to be sure that is the issue. Seems to have good resistance and it was mounted correctly, so I'm assuming it's a bad thermister. It's odd because it printed the wrapped calibration cube, then I went to print another and the heaters spiked.

There are 13 temperature settings in the firmware, Or something like that. Plug in your thermocouple and see what reading it gives you. If it is wrong you need to figure out what to change it too.

The thermistor checks out good. No shorts or grounds that I can find. I'm wondering if something in simplify3d changed the firm ware orgcodes. I switched back to repetier and reflashed and edited the firmware and the heaters still kick on and shoot uo as soon as they are plugged in. I get max temp error on the lcd screen now too. Any suggestions?

So I took everything apart and rewired it. Re flashed the correct firmware. Even put all new stepper drivers on. I plug in the usb, the little green light flashes. But when I plug power in, the red heater led comes on immediately, and the black chips right about them get super hot. I unplugged the heater and the led still comes on, but those chips don't get hot anymore. The only thing I changed before this happened was using simplify 3d. I printed the test cube using s3d and when I went to start another I noticed the temp was sky rocketing. I unplugged it and an here looking for answers?

If you post these questions in the forums you would have a better chance of faster help. No one sees these questions other than me on thingiverse. No one is reading through 1000+ comments.

i'll get into the forums now. thanks

you blew mosfet somehow. Change the board type and use a different port for your hot end. Usually happens if you accidentally ground the metal tab on the mosfet.

Sorry I has been busy I answer as soon I possibly can.

Make sure you cover your ramps set.

Hello:
I have a problem, put the zero position in the left corner, in front of me, and when I try to move, it seems that the engines continue pulling -0, I see no way to change it.
Please someone help me, I'm already tired of searching the web and see nothing.
Thank you.
Sorry for the translation but with Google, is not English.

Allted - in reply to mgg_1

Not sure what you mean. You want it to go the other way?
http://www.vicious1.com/reversing-the-axis-direction/

Do you have to change anything in the software to work it as cnc or laser engraver?

Nov 2, 2015 - Modified Nov 3, 2015
Director - in reply to mogey336

I think that one small change needs to be made in the Marlin firmware to get a PWM TTL signal out to control the laser. The RAMPS's unused printer fan PWM output pin is used to control the On/Off state and intensity of the laser though the laser's "TTL" input. The default for the fan pin is a transistor driving 12V between connector P3 and P4. This needs to be switched in the firmware to a TTL output like D4 on the SERVO 4 connector. Changing the motherboard #define in the Configuration.h file to this should remap the fan output to the SERVO 4 connector:
"#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_13_EEB"
Note that I have not tried this yet. Others please chime in if other changes are needed or I messed this up.

That was on the firmware side. Some work must be also done on the gcode generation. To control the fan output pin the gcode command "M106 PWMvalue" needs to be inserted into your gcode by a post processor. Forum user ductsoup is working on a Python script to do this post processing on Inkscape generated gcode (http://www.vicious1.com/forums/topic/laser-gcode/).

I pasted my long winded comment here: http://www.vicious1.com/forums/topic/laser-add-on/ if anyone wants to add to the discussion.
-SteveC

http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M106:_Fan_On
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/Release/Marlin/Configuration.h
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/Release/Marlin/boards.h
http://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/f/f6/RAMPS1.4schematic.png

Nothing in the firmware. You can use different software to generate your gcode, but do not have too. I do not have a laser, yet, so I couldn't recommend software.
I am still unsure of what laser to spend my money on.

Thanks for your fast reply
I'm printing the parts now and i have a question
Why The X and Y steppers are wired in parallel?
The power supply 12v 5A Adapter For LED strip in the parts list for Arduino only or for Arduino and ramps 1.4?
i downloaded the software from https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin do i need to change it or it is already modified?

You should have a look at vicious1.com. All of these questions are answered there.

The other option to drive 2 steppers is a breakout board and its unnecessary, or in series.

12v5A in enough to power everything and a hot stepper and heater. The only time you need a lot of power is heated beds.

Pre-made firmware on the site under, marlin. The edits are list here and on vicious1.

FInally, thaks to allted and his fast responses, i got this beast running and printing. Tweaking a little now to get some solid pretty prints. Question, has anyone thought, or done a polishing on the gantry rails? just thinking about making it smoother

Mine have polished themselves with use. hahaha, the zinc coating comes of rather quickly and leaves a nice smooth path. My first/oldest machine is now printing the most incredibly smooth parts. I have no idea if my second machine will turn out that way but the parts are honestly the best FDM printed parts I have ever seen. I'll post some pictures in the forum this afternoon.

I am not much of a complainer but something really made me upset. The USB cable you supplied with your kit seems to be faulty. I used it with one of my laptops using the CNC, which worked great, and every time I plugged in the usb cable my touchpad would stop working so I had to unplug it every time I wanted to move my mouse, and I really didn't think anything bad at the time. About a week later after doing several different jobs on my CNC my computer wouldn't recognize an arduino anymore, none of my arduinos worked with the computer and the computer was using the neccessary driver files. After the next few weeks I used the same cable to program my other arduinos and the arduinos didn't do what my programs specified, so I looked over the program several times and couldn't find an error. I even did a simple program like digitalwrite one port HIGH and wait 2 seconds and turn it off and wait 10 seconds. It seems that the HIGH/LOW is swapped that it turns on a digital port when it is in LOW and turns it off when it is HIGH. I thought that it was the computer I was using so I did the same thing on another computer with a different arduino that didnt have that problem and it did the SAME thing. I even tried a different usb cable and it did the same thing. I then realized that it had to be the USB cable ruining my arduinos and my computers usb ports since it wont even recognize a usb flashdrive anymore. I had 5 working arduinos and it ruined 4. They still work if I use HIGH for off and LOW for on but do this weird sequence first when the arduino starts up randomly changing the values of the digital ports every second for about 5 seconds and then it stops. I ruined one of my arduino nanos by plugging it in to the computer that had the faulty usb ports(big mistake) then I realized that it didn't work anymore. I am wondering if one of the 5 volt wires are touching the data cable sending 5 volts to my arduino and sending 5 volts to the computer(which has a protection against that but after a few hours of the cable being connected to the computer it ruined it, knowing that the protection can only protect it for so long until it's dead. I am not 100% positive this is the issue, It could just be an compatiblility issue between the computer and the arduino, but I dont think this is true because I used a different arduino and a different computer and the same cable and it had the same exact problem. I am really upset about this.

I'm sorry you are having these issues. I don't test every cable anymore because I have never found a bad one. I do use them throughout the batch to program with and switch every 5 boards or so. These have actually outlasted the other cables I used to use that were longer. I have never heard of an arduino failing with reverse logic. You could do a quick continuity check to see if it is actually the cable.
You said this one worked initially? Even If I had tested that cable it would have worked fine then, I don't know how else I can test them. I use these cables myself and trust them.
I am sorry this happened to you, what do you think I should I do to make this right?

I had this same problem before but it ended up ruining the entire arduino board. I put power in the voltage input pin on the arduino while having it connected to my computer so 2 different power being put into the board ruined it (it started smoking around the usb connector on the arduino). I noticed that you have the power supply powering the arduino board and it is required to plug in the usb cable to your computer so additional power is being put on the board. Maybe seperating the power of the ramps board and the arduino or just putting cables in the kits that have the ground and the data wire without the +5v wire. I could be wrong, the arduino may be able to support voltage input and usb input at the same time but I am just telling from my own experience. I did use a voltage meter on the cable and found that 2 of the conductors had high resistance to eachother telling me that 2 of the conductors are in partial contact. I also did the same thing to a cable that worked and it didnt have any reading at all telling me that the cable is truely defective. I believe that the cable was either defective when I got it or was fine when I got it and through hours of use with 2 different ways of powering the arduino board were on it could have partially melted the conductors in the usb cable and caused a connection. I understand that you don't manufacture the cables nor do you have time to examine every cable you have, but I write this to tell you "Hey, something went wrong". I don't care about the the usb ports on my computer since it is owned by my school so they will have to fix it but I am still really upset about my arduinos being bad.

I pre wire the power supply so you can not plug it into the wrong port. That power absolutely has to be there for the system to run. I am doing nothing different from any other 3D printer on the market. If you are having power issues you should look into a lcd screen add on. It would be the safe option for you.
The power to the ramps is separate from the arduino, is it possible you set the board on a conductive surface?
As far as I know usb needs all 4 wires, and your computer should have overload protection. I have programmed literally thousands of ramps kits through my laptop at a previous job and have never fried a usb port. Please understand there is a possibility that this is not my fault.
A resistance test is not the same as a continuity test high resistance could mean a bad connection, has nothing to do with a short.
Every wire should have resistance.

I am not sure what to do to help you. The issue I am having is you said everything worked initially, meaning what I sent worked. after that anything could have happened. I do not want you to be unsatisfied, but I feel I did everything in my power to ensure you received a working product.
Is there anything you feel I did wrong?

I understand that there isn't anything you did wrong. What I was saying was there wasn't a bad connection that 2 seperate conductors inside the cable were in partial contact causing some resistance between 2 seperate wires. What I mean by resistance is the resistance reading from my voltage meter. I used the resistance tester on my voltage meter instead of the continuity tester since I have a cheap voltage meter and the continuity tester doesn't work well and sometimes doesn't work at all. There shouldn't be any resistance reading on my voltage meter between the 2 seperate wires. I know that my voltage meter isn't giving a false reading because I have tested another cable that works just fine and it didn't show anything at all. I really believe this to be a defective cable. I understand that my computer has an overload protection but after several hours of being plugged in it could fail. Also, would you know of the brand that makes your usb cables, it would be very much appriciated.

Dec 18, 2015 - Modified Dec 18, 2015
3dEz - in reply to Justin1

Justin1
Arduinos have notoriously flimsy 5V regulators that converts the voltage delivered by the Ramps board. You probably did no ruined the whole arduino, just the 5V regulator on the Arduino board (this is a very common issue). On my prusa I just disconnected the diode on the Ramps board that supplies the input voltage to the Arduino 5V regulator and powered the Arduino with an External 5V supply (via spliced USB cable). Some people did creative soldering of a more capable 5V regulator on the Arduino board. Also, if the resettable 5V fuse on the Arduino board is shorted at any point in time it may never recover to a low resistance state (hence underpowering the Arduino). Good news is, if you separate the 5V supply as I describe above you can resuscitate the "ruined" boards (i.e. if the problem was just the regulator of fuse).

Well I tried to do some aluminum today, My z axis has way to much slop in it (not rigid enough). Kinda bummed out.

What was your spindle, depth of cut, feed speed, bit diameter, distance from the gantry, what kind of aluminum?
Did you see my most recent aluminum video?

dw660, .3mm, 5mm/s, 1/8" 3 flute, and probably too far, not sure why I built it so tall (6" z), must have been thinking multi use (3d printer). I'm sure that's what caused such poor results. But even with the z fully retracted I can get a significant amount of play by hand.

6" is really far. Raise the workpiece as high as possible and for your first metal cut try a depth of. 1mm and maybe slow it down. Then work your way up. I've had practice. And my machine is 24x30. In my vid you can seei start fully retracted, and my ceter is snugged up real good

Oct 31, 2015 - Modified Oct 31, 2015
makerfitchie - in reply to Allted

Ya, I'll have to try that, I'm only slightly larger than you 27x35. I'll have to lower the machine legs, would shortening the Z axis help any with rigidity. It's the gantry that's "twisting" and not the tubes bending.

From the video it looks like your better middle z is flexing. Adding rigidity may help.

Tighten up the gantry bolts and just raise the workpiece, I have mine on a stack of wood in the vid. Don't rebuild it. The less the z axis hangs down the shorter the lever arm is to twist the gantry. Mine is in good shape and I would not cut any faster. I was pushing the limits of my machine.

I'm not sure if you can see the movement in this video but this is my issue, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1314dYiBd4

Looks like your z is loose. the long 3" bolts tension this. Are you using the better middle z parts? There will always be some flex, a better way to check is use 1 finger in the tip of your cutting bit. That is where this will flex from, and it will give you a very realistic feel for what it takes to move the z axis.

I have since tightened the 3" bolts, what I would call significantly, I could still do more but I'm concerned about over tightening them. It cleaned up I would say 40-50% of the slop. I'm running a cut right now with .2 DOC and 2.5mm/s, I wasn't able to raise the work peice as much as I would have liked so if I get closer to 0 I may be able to increase speed back to 5mm/s, seems to be going good. Other than really slow. :(.

And that whole middle assembly is a balance, tightening the other middle end and middle joiner tension bolts will help as well but you really need to pay attention to what it is doing to the ease of movement. I tighten them up for cutting and dial them back a bit for printing.

The first cut that breaks the surface is usually the worst. If that sounded good and the rest is going well bump up one of those numbers, probably the speed. That DOC is okay to me, the speed should be able to go up a bit. A finished slow cut is better than no cut. You were about to rebuild, now your cutting aluminum..win win.

The first cut was still ugly, Not as bad as the first attempt for sure!

ok, the monster machine is alive, moving. extruding for now, next step is to mount it. i have the board cut, and will build the table tomorrow. question for ya'll, how are you mounting it to your tables? just screwing it down through the holes in the feet once its square? FYI AllTed is awesome. thank you for putting up with me through this build, and not only answering my emails, but doing so fast and answering all my silly questions. (I will be ordering a dewalt and some bits asap, really want to try some milling and routing, and want to add a laser to try some cutting as well. super stoked about this thing and the possibilities.