Ultimaker X(2X), Y(2X), Z
by carljones, published
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is there any chance you can upload the IPT's and IAM's?
i am working on a ultimaker project and i am probably going to make a similar design.
it would save me a lot of time and id would be much appreciated!
Thank you for your effort!
oh and by the way: to save you from tedious filing: let the machine remove a bit extra material in each corner. You can make it do that by drawing some circles of your endmill diameter (+ some tolerance) that just touches the corner you wish to cut out. The two (crescent shaped) parts of the circle that cross the original line are the extra material you need to remove.
Yes, first advice would be to not do it: As I said your are basically developing a new printer, there is no way you will iron out all the kinks before your project is due. Building a UM takes about 1-2 days, but that because it is a very good kit, all parts work together and the design has been tested a few thousand times. Building a new printer design will set you back much longer, multiply that given your lack of experience with 3D printing.
Add to that that printing larger models without warping is very hard and requires lots of design compromises. There might be a reason why professional printers all use a heated chamber and print slow. The only dimension in which you can scale up easily is Z...
Now, perhaps you could tell us what you wish to print on it? Usually, the much easier solution would be to reduce your piece into smaller printable parts. Why would your thing need to be printed in one piece?
Also, if you are new to 3D printing, that quote you got is probably meaningless. Your model is not very optimized for 3D printing, you never had it in your hands once. To make anything successfully, you need to go over several iterations of prototypes. This is where rapid-prototyping + 3D printing shines. With an ultimaker on your desk you can quickly iterate over several designs a day (unless you go answering beginners questions on TV..), something you cannot do with post-order 3D printing services. That problem (lack of enough prototypes) is something I also with our interns here: the better products all have a progression of prototypes.
So, to wrap it up: do buy an Ultimaker if you must, but do keep it stock initially. Start printing out your design at a scale that is printable (in parts or whole). Fix what is wrong with those, lather, rinse, repeat until it is good enough. If you need to, scale up the Z-axis of the UM, but keep it as short as possible, I'd say 60cm max.
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I have been working from the Original REV 3 Ultimaker Laser Cut Drawings found thingiverse.com/thing:13571
My Plan is to have a panel made at work consisting of 4mm Birch Ply with 1mm Aluminium Both Sides and then cut out on a CNC router with a 3mm cutter. On the DWG,DXF file you will see that I have started to put 1.5mm rounded internal corners which I will take a file to after. These should be cut out on the 15/04/2013 as my panel has been pressed. I then should be able to start the assembly of the case that weekend as I will have more time for finishing touches like rounding some of the edges off to help give it a better overall finish before taking it back to work to get sprayed.
I am not sure what to do with the base yet. I have been reading up on a lot of peopleâ€™s comments, I am thinking of an Aluminium heated bed.
The side panels I am going to put a recess in for a Perspex panel.
I am going to purchase the Laser less Ultimaker Kit shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultimaker-kits/laserless-ultimaker-kit-new.html .
What will be different is the X,Y Rods and Belts keeping the more expensive parts standard. I will be asking Ultimaker when I come to purchase this kit, if they will supply those parts to me, to my dimensions at an additional cost.
I am not looking for funding like someone else on here.
But I am after your knowledge, especially with regard to an inexpensive way for the base.
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