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Filament Storage Solution (IKEA SAMLA)

by wstein, published

Filament Storage Solution (IKEA SAMLA) by wstein Mar 27, 2015
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Summary

The IKEA SAMLA Boxes (22 l / 6 gallon) is the ideal storage solution for my needs. The profiled wall design makes it very stable. It can hold up to 5x 750g standard spools and I can put Silica gel inside. The IKEA SAMLA boxes should be available in many countries in the world.

By mounting an installations tube in the box, I can feed the filament direct from the box to my printer. That's very convenient!

My spool have all about 20 cm / 8 inch diameter but there is some space left to the wall, so 21.5 cm / 8.5 inch should also fit fine.

It is fast and easy to print. It is very easy to assemble. A drilling jig is also included.

The STL files are for M4 screw and nuts, but as it is customizable you can configure it also for inch parts, other tube/pipe or boxes.

Print Settings

Rafts: Doesn't Matter

Supports: No

Resolution: 0.3mm layer

Infill: 20%


Notes:

I print it without bottom layer - this prevents wraping on my non heated print bed.

Instructions

Parts list for each box:

  1. IKEA SAMLA Boxe with Lid (22 l / 6 gallon) 798.508.75
  2. 32mm installation tube/pipe (1.25 inch should also fit)
  3. 2x printed socket
  4. 6x M4x8 bolt (M4x10mm can also be used)
  5. 6x M4 nuts
  6. 6x M4 washers

Tools you need:

  • electric drill
  • 4mm drill
  • a pipe cutter or a miter box with saw
  • screw driver

Build steps:

  1. print two sockets for each box
  2. print one drilling jig
  3. use the drilling jig to drill the three holes on each side of the box
  4. mount the sockets as you see on the images
  5. cut the installation tube/pipe at 315mm (12.4inch)

Put the spools on the tube and put it onto the sockets. Now push the side wall a little bit apart and the tube will snap into the sockets.

I recommend also this things:

  • Spacer to hold the spools apart (I'm using simple_spacer_32x5.stl and simple_spacer_32x10.stl )
  • the Spool Adapter for perfect fitting of different spools
  • a Filament Clip

Optional:

For sealing your boxes:

You may find this things useful to control humidity:

Versions

Version 2.0: The customizer calculates the correct tube length, now. So it should be easier to create for different boxes.

Version 2.0.1: fix for latest customizer version

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Great idea! Time for me to go to IKEA! :-)
BTW can I ask you what's the project of your cable holder? I need it and I have the same printer and the same extruder (it seems a MK8)...

Thanks for your interest, I am not sure which cable holder you are talking about. My printer is an unmodified BQ Prusa i3: https://www.bq.com/de/prusa. Maybe this links will help you:

wiki: http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3_Hephestos/de
github: https://github.com/bq/prusa-i3-hephestos

Thank you for the link.. your extruder is a little different, I have a Geeetech Prusia I3 Pro B, but I can try starting from the files in that page and making something similar...
And tomorrow... IKEA! I noticed in the near store there is the 22l model available, so maybe I can solve my problem..

Drilling jig is too big for M3D maybe give measurements of drill location ?

On each short side of the box, measure up from the bottom lip (in center, not the "feet), and make a small mark/line at 118mm. Then, lay your ruler across that mark you just made and you will see the width at that point is 100mm, so make you second mark/line at the 50mm point. Where the 118mm and 50mm lines intersect is your drill point for the bottom of the three holes.

Drill that hole and attach the holder temporarily to the outside of the box and use it as a template to mark the other two holes.

Then mount everything up and your good to go. The lengths of PVC should be about 315mm, but the box flexibility allows for a fe mm of play there too. On my last set, I just had the guy in the shop cut two pieces for me. I told him 315mm, but then saw his ruler was cm only, so no marker. I told him to just cut at 32cm then. Turns out, he was off by about 2mm so at 318mm they still fit just fine without me doing any more cutting.

The real key to this system is the spool holder and spacers, once those are in place it feeds like butter!

Many thanks for your reply to mjkout. You made a perfect description. There is nothing more to say. Many Thanks!

Multiple Filament Dry Holder and Dispenser (Updated 9/19/2013)

what sort of pipe did you use

In Germany it is called HT-Rohr: https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hochtemperaturrohr
PP indoor wastewater pipe

I feel the need to mention that my first print of the spool holder was completely useless due to the fact that the raft wouldn't come off. I

This comment has been deleted.

I am sorry, that you run into trouble. I do not understand the problem, maybe you could share a photo? Nevertheless, thanks for your comment, this may help others not to run into the same issue.

Planning on going this weekend to grab one of these at IKEA to do this myself, curious what size spools this fits though. I just ordered one of these: http://www.amazon.com/MakerBot-Filament-Diameter-Large-Spool/dp/B00SNM5YBC?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_14&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER and it says the spool diameter is 9 inches, would that fit? Thanks.

Also I see you don't print the bottom layer due to "wrapping on my non heated print bed", assuming you meant warping? I'm guessing that is the issue I'm having on my Makerbot Replicator 2, seems that the bottom layer of this (and a few other) prints all "wavy", it seems to only happen on diagonal flats. Like the center of the diagonals bows inwards/up or maybe overlaps on the previous diagonal? Anyhow, thanks in advance for your answers and thanks for the files!

My spool have all about 20 cm / 8 inch but there is some space left to the wall. 21.5 cm / 8.5 inch should also fit fine.

Yes, wraping is correct.

The socket looks wavy/stepped because I adjust the wall angle. It became better if you use a higher resolution. But there is no functional drawback.

This comment has been deleted.
wstein - in reply to haste

Many thanks

You seem to be missing the spacer part? Good design otherwise!

You can find the spacer here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:728531

Customizable Spacer
by wstein

You should put a dehumidifier in there!

Anyone having trouble with the customizer for this? I really want to adjust this for the hardware I have on hand, but the customizer keeps giving me an error. The only parameters I'm changing are on the first tab: has width 9.5; bolt hole 5.0 (yes, I'm using english hardware. It's what I've got.)

I have fixed the bug it works now correct. Sorry for the trouble!

Works great, now! Thanks so much for the original idea, design and fix!

Many thanks for your interest. It would be great if you can share your experience.

Very good idea this forage !

Many thanks! I can't wait, getting the first feedback from one actually build this.

Excellent! Also consider putting silica gel inside to stabilize the humidity :)
How about an air tight filter solution where you can feed the filament through?

This comment has been deleted.
Apr 4, 2015 - Modified Apr 5, 2015
wstein - in reply to DIY_glenn

This was also my first intention. Currently I am opening the lid a bit for printing. So I don't have to drill additional holes for the filament and it is air tight while not in use!

Actually I'm absolute happy with that solution. But I have some ideas in mind - stay tuned...

If I build this I might install five of these test tube pierceable caps to push the filament through . . .
http://tinyurl.com/j54chcu

Might cause too much friction on the filament I would think. Causing prints to fail as the extruder won't be able to pull the filament? Definitely let us know if you try this though.

May 13, 2016 - Modified May 13, 2016
wstein - in reply to cgehringer

that is very interesting! It would be great if you could share your experience. I am looking forward to see your results.

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