Loading

Air 2 - Lowered & Flipped Z Motors

by wasta, published

Air 2 - Lowered & Flipped Z Motors by wasta Apr 16, 2013

Description

These parts can be used to lower and flip the Z motors on the RepRap Air 2 by Mecano.

The download includes a right and left motor bracket, a dxf with additional holes/cuts for mounting/cable management, and an optional end-stop holder for the Z axis.

If you already have an Air 2 frame laser cut, you can use the printed bracket as a template to drill the 2 additional holes needed to attach the part.

This part is admittedly overbuilt, but it prints well.


**Edited: Added a Slim, Short, and Low-Poly Versions of the part.**

I have not printed or tested the short or slim versions, but they should work fine.

The "short" version of the bracket should probably only be used if the z smooth rod is cut long enough to reach the bottom smooth rod clamp. I worry it may not stay square otherwise?

Some kind of paper drilling template may also be needed for the "short" version if it is being added to an existing Air 2 frame.

Recent Comments

view all
Okay, I am going to try this one last time, but Wasta, is there a way of printing the left and right brackets apart from eachother? I am usually home late and don't have time to print a full board, but if I can print them one at a time I might just be able to print one a day :)
Do you think printing it in Aluminum would gain me accuracy?

I have found that buying a Prusa i3 frame in Alu is even cheaper and I hear it gains good accuracy.

I am noticing my Acrylic frame isn't as study as I would like it to be, even with all the added supports. Even after glueing the frameparts together in an absolute square configuration.
The .dxf included in the downloads is the Air 2 dxf with the two extra holes required to mount the lower z motor bracket. If you print it out on paper at 1:1 scale and lay it on your existing frame, it will ensure the centers of the holes to mount the lower z motor brackets are in the correct spot.

If you can find a 4mm drill bit for acrylic you will probably get a better result. I would also recommend putting a waste board behind the acrylic when drilling the holes so the bit doesn't break through the backside of the hole.

More from 3D Printer Parts

view more

Remixed From

Liked By

view all

Tags

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag. Print Thing Tag

Instructions

The .stl is prearranged for printing.

The .dxf shows the additional 4 additional holes required, along with optional holes for cable routing.


Additional Hardware:

4x: M3 x 16mm
4x: M3 x 12mm
8x: M3 Washers
8x: M3 Nuts
Okay, I am going to try this one last time, but Wasta, is there a way of printing the left and right brackets apart from eachother? I am usually home late and don't have time to print a full board, but if I can print them one at a time I might just be able to print one a day :)
Hi Wasta, I fixed all my printing problems. Could you please explain what you mean with:
"Some kind of paper drilling template may also be needed for the "short" version if it is being added to an existing Air 2 frame." ??

I am going to modify my frame with a hand-drill and and make the holes in the acrylic myself now.

It cost me 115 euros to lasercut the aluminum version of the frame so I'm saving up money for now.
The .dxf included in the downloads is the Air 2 dxf with the two extra holes required to mount the lower z motor bracket. If you print it out on paper at 1:1 scale and lay it on your existing frame, it will ensure the centers of the holes to mount the lower z motor brackets are in the correct spot.

If you can find a 4mm drill bit for acrylic you will probably get a better result. I would also recommend putting a waste board behind the acrylic when drilling the holes so the bit doesn't break through the backside of the hole.
Do you think printing it in Aluminum would gain me accuracy?

I have found that buying a Prusa i3 frame in Alu is even cheaper and I hear it gains good accuracy.

I am noticing my Acrylic frame isn't as study as I would like it to be, even with all the added supports. Even after glueing the frameparts together in an absolute square configuration.
It will take some time before I will be able to print this. My repetier says it takes about 4 hours to print these...

Any idea if I can tweak the settings of my printer to make it quicker, yet keep quality?

I am using Slic3r in Repetier.
The original part does take a while to print. I think I used .3 layer height, 2 perimeters, .25 infill, and 2 solid layers top and bottom. Everything at 100mm/s.

I just added some files that should decrease print time, but may not be as sturdy. A short, slim, and low-poly version.

Hope it helps.
Awesome, yes, I will start printing tonight! I have all my print settings at 50~60mm/s because I had a problem with missing steps. Maybe I can try and go to 90mm/s and input a 15hz vibration setting in my Marlin software to make it a bit faster but I notice that my hotend has problems keeping up with the speed and then starts to put small parts of filament like a dotting pattern instead of dropping a nice constant flow-like line.

Still at the academy now. Be back later!
Nice stuff man, I have received an optical endstop when I ordered my new hotend, so will be using that one on this when I have printed it all and am ready to start working on it.
Top