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Air 2 - Jordan

by wasta, published

Air 2 - Jordan by wasta Apr 17, 2013

Description

This is a printer frame based on the Air 2 by Mecano.

It can increase your print height by 60mm or 2.3 inches (depending on your hot end)

The printable height has been increased to 150mm (w/ Budaschnozzle) by extending the laser cut frame and flipping the z axis motors to the bottom of the printer. This printer can be assembled with the same smooth and threaded rods used for an Air 2 (The photos show a printer using 395mm smooth rods on all axis. The renders show the frame with the original Air 2 rod lengths)

This is a work in progress. Any and all suggestions for improvement are welcome.

EDIT: Added low-poly versions of frame and motor brackets for faster slicing.

Features:

  • 190mm x 190mm x 150mm print area

  • z motors flipped to bottom of printer

  • printed braces for increased frame rigidity. (all braces moved to rear of frame for cleaner aesthetic.)

  • the top acrylic brace has been extended to the back of the printer to ensure square and make room for printed braces.

  • the crosspiece has been heightened / widened to increase strength and open up the build envelope

  • cable / filament routing

  • additional threaded brace / filament spool holder. (this is optional, but it seems to stiffen the frame. it is similar to Airwolf3d design but moved outside of 150mm printable area in z axis)

  • all curves from RepRap Air 2 design removed in favor of chamfers

  • unnecessary holes / slots removed.

  • can use same "vitamins", smooth and threaded rods as or Air 2 (as shown smooth rods on z are cut to 395)

Design based largely on RepRap Air 2 by Mecano, ideas and parts from Lulzbot, Airwolf3d, and RepRapPro. thanks!

Recent Comments

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Hello!
What model of stepper motors used in the printer? And what a set of used electronics? I want to build my first 3D printer based on your drawings.
rely nice!
is it possible to get an DXF file of 10MM size asi can run in a CNC with 3mm?
That shuld be BEST Ever!
Well, all my prints are going well, as you can see here for example:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:107403

I have no idea why it keeps going wrong on this one. I tried different settings.. Somehow there is somewhere a part in the file that has a place where my print-bed has to move too fast and it looks as if my stepper motor skips a step. I haven't had this on any other print and I have tweaked my stepper drivers very well.

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Instructions

To make this printer... Laser cut the frame .dxf from 6mm material. The laser cut pieces can fit in an 18' x 24 laser on two sheets of material with about half a sheet left over.

Print the included frame brackets and motor brackets. I would recommend ABS for all parts with a generous infill on the frame brackets.

Assembly is basically the same as the Air 2, and the parts from the original BOM can be used.
http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Air_2#Bill_Of_Materials

The printer is shown with x ends from Airwolf3D, and a custom x carriage, but any x axis compatible with an i2 should work.

Additional Parts:

  • 23 - M3 x 12mm
  • 4 - M3 x 16mm
  • 35 - M3 Washers
  • 27 - M3 Nuts
  • 1 - M8 threaded rod 360mm (optional spool holder)
Hello!
What model of stepper motors used in the printer? And what a set of used electronics? I want to build my first 3D printer based on your drawings.
rely nice!
is it possible to get an DXF file of 10MM size asi can run in a CNC with 3mm?
That shuld be BEST Ever!
I quit trying to print the parts, the lowered Z-motor brackets are just unprintable for me, every time I try somewhere something goes wrong. I can print everything I want except for these.

It's not in your design, it's in my printer somewhere.

I've given up and am going to build a MendelMax.
Maybe when that machine is done, I can try and make this Air...
I did print lowerd z motor bracket, twice and no problem at all

layer is 0.2mm

Did ur print sudden stop?
What's ur control board and does it have sd card to upload file for offline printing?
Well, all my prints are going well, as you can see here for example:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:107403

I have no idea why it keeps going wrong on this one. I tried different settings.. Somehow there is somewhere a part in the file that has a place where my print-bed has to move too fast and it looks as if my stepper motor skips a step. I haven't had this on any other print and I have tweaked my stepper drivers very well.
Supersimple Air 2 Spool Holder
This is great! I always wanted to move my motors to bottom. I hope that it will be compatible with my Prusa Air :)
Did you already print some parts?

I'm trying my second print on the bottom-mounted Z-motor holders :)

First print failed halfway after 2,5 hours. Now printing it again at 0.25mm layer height, 0.25 infill. Will take about 6/7 hours to complete.

Any suggestions on layer height for printing? I reckon 0.25mm should be good, but maybe 0.4mm is enough?
I cannot find any cheap aluminium cutters in my country (The Netherlands).. So the material should be 6mm Alu, and does anyone here know a cheap solution for me?

- Marinus
are you making your frame of aluminum?

the photos are of 6mm acrylic sanded matte.
I have inquired for laser cutting 6mm Aluminum, some company asked me €368 for it..

That is 480.68 us dollar... Damn... Thats impossibly expensive.
I am currently also having acrylic, but it is too wobbly and it is starting to annoy me :)
Actually already glued the sides together because I feel it's making my prints a bit more messy than they should be.

Just want to have the most rigid structure there is so I can rule out all instability factors.

Would you think Aluminum is overkill?
What frame do you have, the Air 2 the Air XL?

I tried to address the wobble with the extra printed brackets connecting the crosspiece to the sides. On the Air 2 the crosspiece is only connected to the top, so if the slots don't fit together tightly there is some play in the frame.
Hi, yes I am using an Air 2 XL now, thats why I can make the switch to your design without a problem. I have ordered new smooth rods to be sure so I can cut new longer ones if needed, but I think it's all very swappable.

Also ordered more bearings, moar bolts and a complete new wire collection so I can re-wire my machine and make it nic3r and bett3r ;)
Hi... Beautiful design ... which Y Motor Bracket you use?
Beautiful design ... which Y Motor Bracket you use?
It is the y bracket from an Airwolf3d V5.
Cool! I'm just finishing up my Air 2 (calibrating) and one thing I would like in the future is more build height.

One thing we did at our makerspace (http://nova-labs.org) is make the slots and tabs in the source files for the acrylic parametric. That way if someone couldn't source 6mm acrylic and had to settle for the 1/4" stuff (that isn't even 1/4") from the local hardware store, they could dial in a few parameters for material thickness and laser kerf (thickness of cut) and have really tight fitting parts. Our first set of panels were good but we tightened the fit down 0.1mm and the next set was perfect.
nova-labs looks like a great space. would love to stop by sometime while in the DC area.

I agree a parametric model would be very useful to account for material variation. I used this little thing to find the right slot for the laser cutter / material combo used to cut the frame. thingiverse.com/thing:76477
Kerf Test - 6mm
by wasta
yeah I saw that thing and it reminded me of another change we made to the DXF for the Air 2. Doug designed in two pairs of test pieces with a bunch of slots, holes, and tabs in the waste space on the layout so we could take the material and just cut one of the test pair, see how they fit, make any adjustments, cut a second test and if all was good, cut out the actual parts.
Cool! I'm just finishing up my original Air 2 (calibrating) and one thing I'm looking towards in the future is getting more height.

One thing we did at our makerspace (http://nova-labs.org) is we made all the slots and tabs parametric so we could account for differing thicknesses of acrylic and laser kerf. We were having a hard time sourcing actual 6mm stock so we wanted to make it easier for members that could only get what Home Depot calls 1/4" acrylic to actually cut tight fitting parts.
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