6-Pin or 10-Pin Shrouded Male Connector - IDC - Printable

by Renosis, published

6-Pin or 10-Pin Shrouded Male Connector - IDC - Printable by Renosis Apr 2, 2011


This is a 6-Pin Shrouded Male Connector which accepts an IDC Connector. I bought some Polulu Carrier kits and only a 10-Pin Connector was included. Unfortunately, I don't have any electronics suppliers in my town and I didn't want to wait for a delivery, so I built my own.

Update: Openscad Parametric Version coming soon.

I keep meaning to learn some OpenScad so I can easily make these types of things parametric, but every time I start, I end up thinking, "Man I could get this done in like 20 seconds in Sketchup".

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@whosawhatsis - I know, I saw it! Awesome work! We need more things like these.

I designed a printable latching header like the ones used to connect the Gen4 endstops. http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

Awesome! More vitamins added to the 'botable prints.

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Pictures on the left kind of show you what to glue where. It is pretty obvious but I posted them just in case.

Noticed that some people are printing these and end up with walls that don't get filled. This is an issue with the 'extra shells' options in Skeinforge. For some reason skeinforge has trouble with small or thin objects when you have extra shells turned on. To fix this issue, set the three 'extra shells' options to 0 in the 'fill' plugin. This 'bug?!' may be fixed soon, I don't know, but it is confirmed to exist all the way up to the current version SF40 I believe.

Print the part. Get an IDC connector and stick 3 x 2 male header pins in it (picture 1). I used one with a broken clip for testing purposes just in case I was sloppy with the glue. Surround the walls of the opening in the bottom of the printed connector shroud with some ABS cement (Picture 2)(I use Plastruct Plastic Weld, which you can get in just about any hobby shop). Stick your IDC connector with the male header pins into the hole. Wait for the ABS Cement to set. I also put glue across the bottom of the assembled shroud, to get better adhesion (picture 3). Remove the IDC connector once you are sure the cement has set. And you should now have an Assembled 6 Pin Shrouded Male Connector for your Electronics Projects!


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feilen on Apr 16, 2011 said:

Awesome! More vitamins added to the 'botable prints.

on Apr 8, 2011 said:

The shroud works just great. Prints nice. CA glues it in nicely. Plug fits nice and snug. I'm now inspired to remove pins from other connectors and attempt to make custom plugs. Additionally interesting is the idea that I might be able to print connectors directly into my enclosures.

Renosis on Apr 8, 2011 said:

I'm glad it worked out! I was worried that it wouldn't fit right with other people's profiles. It's such a small part that small differences in thread size can effect it quite a bit!

As for making other stuff... I've been examining all my electronics looking for new types of connectors to make. The 4 pin molex would be an easy ones. I don't know where to get pins for the stepper driver connectors. The whole point would be lost if I went and bought a bunch of the connectors to
rip them apart and make printed connectors.

Maybe if I were to buy thin copper rods I can cut to size and then I would be able to make all sorts of connectors.

I never even would have thought to just build these things into enclosure... that's brilliant!

on Apr 4, 2011 said:

I never have these around when I need them. This is just so simple and awesome.

Maybe it's even possible to make the other end with female headers.

Renosis on Apr 4, 2011 said:

Well... That's an idea! I think I'll give it a go.

RobertHunt on Apr 3, 2011 said:

Where did you get the carrier from? I'm looking at using a Polulu driver for my stepper based extruder as Gen 4 stepper drivers are impossible to get hold of in the EU unless I import one where as Polulu drivers are abundant.

Is the board design open source or are there instruction for building one?

Renosis on Apr 3, 2011 said:

Yes, the Pololu driver and Carrier Board I believe are open source hardware. They are pretty commonly used on RepRap printers, I believe. There are instructions out there for building one without an, "official" carrier board (if that's what you would call it). I got the carrier board kit and the pololu driver from MakerGear.com. Which is based in America, so that is not much help to you. I guarantee there are suppliers in the EU.

This is where I got the instructions for putting together this particular carrier board:


As for etching a board or something like that, I have no idea how to do all that. So I wouldn't know where the first place to look would be. As for using the Pololu Stepper
driver in a MakerBot... they work great! 1/16th Microstepping makes for much quieter operation and my ToM seems to just work a little better with it. The major benefit is you put it together yourself, so you know what kind of quality to expect from it. I was having problems with my Y axis on the M
akerBot Stepper Drivers. I suspect it is bad soldering joints or something.

macegr on Apr 3, 2011 said:

Yep...let's see how many checkboxes this might tick for someone thinking about getting a 3D printer.

* You usually need only one, or a few

* When you need it, you probably need it now (or 10 minutes from now)

* It's tiny and fast to print

* Probably costs less than a penny in plastic, would cost you 30 or 40 times that. Over printer lifetime it could really save you money by printing these minor detail objects.

Renosis on Apr 3, 2011 said:

Yeah, it's really small but, I guess technically it gets rid of one of those 'vitamin' parts. I guess I'll make a 10-pin one too.

tomlombardi on Apr 3, 2011 said:

Great job, this is what the Makerbot is all about. :)

freakinhuge on Apr 3, 2011 said:

We need more things like this! Gotta love connector making via a 3D printer! :-D