Loading

This Thing is currently under moderation: due to missing STLs
Files and images for this Thing are currently unavailable.

M8 to Nema-17 Z-Coupler

by jameswood, published

M8 to Nema-17 Z-Coupler by jameswood Apr 18, 2013
Share

Thing Apps Enabled

Contents

Use This Project

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag

Thing Statistics

Views Downloads Found in 3D Printer Parts

Summary

EDIT: You probably don't want to use this. It's too rigid. I'm currently using these: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22422 (I think mine's prettier but that doesn't count for much if the prints suck!)

If you need a rigid coupler these are great, but for most reprap applications (including the Printrbot Plus), give mine a miss. Sorry!

A simple coupler to mount M8 threaded rods to a NEMA 17 stepper. The up arrow points up!

I'm [no longer] using two of these on my Printrbot Plus and so far, [have changed my mind about them being] so good. (Don't overtighten!)

All Apps

This App connects Thingiverse with Makeprintable, a cloud-based mesh repair service that analyzes, validates and repairs most common mesh errors that can occur when preparing a 3D design file for p...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Does this work okay? It seems as though the "plate" in the middle of the central column, separating the M8 side from the NEMA side, would hinder the "squeezing" action of this piece.

The fit is so snug that it isn't a problem. The motor side needs tapping with a screwdriver to get it on there, and the threaded rod needs screwing into the connector. The plate is really thin and can be cut out, but I don't think you'll need to.

If anything, I think these might be slightly too rigid. I'm getting some z-banding that I wasn't before, but I have also recently made many other upgrades and I'm still trying to nail down the exact cause.

Perhaps the piece is so rigid as the walls are so thick (they look to be something like 8 mm thick, right?). Reducing the width of these to something closer to 2 or 3 mm should allow the frame to be a bit more flexible whilst still being strong enough to use.

Top