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M8 to Nema-17 Z-Coupler

by jameswood, published

M8 to Nema-17 Z-Coupler by jameswood Apr 18, 2013

Description

Print files for this Thing are now hosted at Youmagine

EDIT: You probably don't want to use this. It's too rigid. I'm currently using these: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22422 (I think mine's prettier but that doesn't count for much if the prints suck!)

If you need a rigid coupler these are great, but for most reprap applications (including the Printrbot Plus), give mine a miss. Sorry!

A simple coupler to mount M8 threaded rods to a NEMA 17 stepper. The up arrow points up!

I'm [no longer] using two of these on my Printrbot Plus and so far, [have changed my mind about them being] so good. (Don't overtighten!)

Recent Comments

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Perhaps the piece is so rigid as the walls are so thick (they look to be something like 8 mm thick, right?). Reducing the width of these to something closer to 2 or 3 mm should allow the frame to be a bit more flexible whilst still being strong enough to use.
The fit is so snug that it isn't a problem. The motor side needs tapping with a screwdriver to get it on there, and the threaded rod needs screwing into the connector. The plate is really thin and can be cut out, but I don't think you'll need to.

If anything, I think these might be slightly *too* rigid. I'm getting some z-banding that I wasn't before, but I have also recently made many other upgrades and I'm still trying to nail down the exact cause.
Does this work okay? It seems as though the "plate" in the middle of the central column, separating the M8 side from the NEMA side, would hinder the "squeezing" action of this piece.

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Does this work okay? It seems as though the "plate" in the middle of the central column, separating the M8 side from the NEMA side, would hinder the "squeezing" action of this piece.
The fit is so snug that it isn't a problem. The motor side needs tapping with a screwdriver to get it on there, and the threaded rod needs screwing into the connector. The plate is really thin and can be cut out, but I don't think you'll need to.

If anything, I think these might be slightly *too* rigid. I'm getting some z-banding that I wasn't before, but I have also recently made many other upgrades and I'm still trying to nail down the exact cause.
Perhaps the piece is so rigid as the walls are so thick (they look to be something like 8 mm thick, right?). Reducing the width of these to something closer to 2 or 3 mm should allow the frame to be a bit more flexible whilst still being strong enough to use.
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