#3DBenchy - The jolly 3D printing torture-test

by CreativeTools, published

#3DBenchy - The jolly 3D printing torture-test by CreativeTools Apr 9, 2015

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#3DBenchy is a 3D model specifically designed for testing and benchmarking 3D printers. It is a small recognisable object that you can download for free, make and share.

It is designed to 3D-print quickly and be a fun tool for calibrating your 3D printer. There is a single-part STL file for 3D printing the boat in one material, and a multi-part STL assembly to be used for multi-material/printhead 3D printing.

Documenting the results

You can use the Smartphone Photo Studio for 3DBenchy to easily take photos and share the results of your 3D print. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1085472



We invite you to join the community and talk about 3D printing with #3DBenchy

You can visit 3DBenchy.com for more information on how to use #3DBenchy.

You can also search the internet to find more about #3DBenchy.

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We invite you to join the the Thingiverse Group for #3DBenchy to discuss different aspects about 3D-print settings. http://www.thingiverse.com/groups/3dbenchy

For a full set of instructions please visit http://3DBenchy.com. You can also search for the tag #3DBenchy on social media to see what other 3D-printer users have made.


Benchy Float Accesories by dsb007


Smoke for #3DBenchy boat by akira3dp0


Smartphone Photo Studio for #3DBenchy and tiny stuff


Wave stand by Furnibird for the #3DBenchy jolly 3D printing torture-test


Tom's 3DBenchy rudder stand V2 (12 ships) By tomulinek


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perfect print thank you so much sir

Nov 29, 2016 - Modified Nov 29, 2016

Dear CreativeTools,
we are captains, admirals, pirates… thanks to #3DBenchy fleets all over the world. And as we use it as the 3D printing benchmarking model, we need a stand for our fleet also. I made one as a tribute to your work: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1925678. :)

Off to the battle, sailors!

Tom's 3DBenchy rudder stand V2 (12 ships)

We love the accessory you made for #3DBenchy! Perfect for displaying a dozen ships! Thanks for making this and sharing the file. :)

Problem with Dual color, the top color seems to be off target with the hull, every thing is off by about a mm on the port side which causes drooping on the side railing, any advice? I'm using a E3d chimera, on a prusa i3, it had me thinking my left size might not be perfectly aligned with the right side, but with the chimera only being 18mm from nozzle to nozzle shouldn't have this big of a impact.

Hi tibuck,

Make sure that both STL files are perfectly aligned in your slicing software. It is common that when importing each file, that some programs don't regard the original position of each STL file.

If they are correctly aligned, then any deviation in your 3D print is due to a mechanical or firmware/software issue.

I am using simplify3d with the dual extrusion wizard, I have tried printing other items such as the Makerbot cup cake and a few different Dual color calibrations, Everything checks out but the Benchy, honestly I would know where to begin to align them manually. I have very recently upgrade my Marlin firmware to the last RC& bugfix So perhaps it could be related as for mechanical I did go though and made sure all was aligned and tight. has anyone else using Simplify3d mention this sort of problem ?

I'm a student trying to innovate within the growing 3-D printing industry and I was wondering if anybody could fill out this quick survey to help me gather some data. Any responses are helpful, Thanks!


The dualprint STLs have a lot of errors. Microsoft's STL fixing service can't repair one of them, and KISSlicer doesn't know what to do with them. Can you upload fixed versions? Thanks!

Thanks for your comment. The dualprint STL files have common issues created and found in polygon modelling software. We chose to leave these present in the files so that the makers of 3D printing software could use them as samples for automatically healing models with "errors". Today some slicers fix the errors without problems and other slicers can't.

You can import the dualprint STLs into https://www.netfabb.com/ or http://meshmixer.com and fix them there and then export them to your 3D printing software.

While I appreciate your stance on using this as a test case, it causes problems in slicers people use every day. It would be appreciated if you uploaded a fixed STL alongside the bad STL. This way you accomplish your goal of providing a test and users, like me who use Linux primarily, aren't stuck trying to find a Windows machine to run Netfabb or MeshMixer.

Thank you for the hard work on these models, they are a fun benchmark!

5 days ago - Modified 5 days ago
dkulinski - in reply to CreativeTools

Deleting redundant comment. Save comment but does nothing to indicate it was clicked.

Comments deleted.

Could someone please advise the wall thickness that this is optimally designed for? I'm currently using a line width of 0.4 with a 0.4mm nozzle and then using a 1.2mm wall width, but it seems to be slightly off in terms of not really looking right. There are slight gaps in between the walls in certain places and the hole on the top at the back is pretty poor quality as its only 2 walls at that point.

Hi samuel235!

Thanks for posting the question. The outer wall perimeters tend to differ somewhat depending on the kind of slicer software used. If you want you can post images of your print as a make http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622/#made. You can also post them on the #3DBenchy Facebook Group (https://www.facebook.com/groups/3DBenchy) or Google+ (https://plus.google.com/u/1/communities/115261440450659130664)

#3DBenchy - The jolly 3D printing torture-test

I'm not sure what you're telling me here. Are you just telling me to post my results to a community thread for discussion and skipping over the question of "What wall thickness is this model designed to work with" or are you asking me to post the issue i have for others to discuss?

I can only guess that i made an error in the software maybe, but i can't see one tbh. I very much doubt that this would be an issue no matter the wall thickness i define as its down to my software to then determine if it needs to fill the walls in.

Thank you for your response samuel235. The reason why we suggested the social media groups for #3DBenchy is that it is not technically possible to attach images here on the comment area of Thingiverse. Any image or images that show how your printed #3DBenchy looks like, would give us so much more possibilities to help.

It is also a matter of definition and we want to make sure we completely understand your question and can reply with good advice. There are a few different wall thicknesses in the 3D file but there is also wall thickness in the 3D printing Gcode and the final printed model - meaning the thickness of plastic that separates the outside from the sparsely filled inside.

In most common print settings with a filament-based 3D printer, the wall thickness is made of two perimeters of 0.4 mm each. This can be adjusted and vary depending of what kind of slicing software is used.

Any access to images of your prints, or the actual sliced print files you have, as well as more information about your printer, filament, etc - would help us more to help.

I appreciate your time to reply, however my question was just simply asking for advice in regards to what the file was designed to print best with, that is all. I don't wish to have others tell me what is wrong with my print as i'm figuring this out alone right now, and this way enables me to learn my printer better/easier than if someone simply told me what was wrong with my prints. I would rather troubleshoot myself first, and if i can't find the fix then ask others for assistance.

So from your reply, i think its safe to assume that as long as i print with a wall thickness 1.2mm or bigger then it will be optimal for the print.

Thank you for your assistance, and i will be sure to post my make of the benchy in the near future for others to see and compare to, to get answers on what they can do themselves to improve their prints.


Thanks Sam :) We look forward to see your prints and answer any questions you have.

For those who want to try #3DBenchy as a 3MF file in the slicing software, we have now created and uploaded the file 3DBenchy.3mf. It is a modern file format better suited for 3D printing. For more information visit http://www.3mf.io/

The original 3DBenchy.stl original file weighs 11,3 MB. The new 3DBenchy.3mf weighs just 3,1 MB but still contains the exact 3D surface information. Please note that not all 3D printing software packages today support the new .3mf file format.

We played a bit with the Sketchfab.com features for virtual reality and configured #3DBenchy so that anyone with a mobile phone and simple VR set can stand inside the bridge and be the skipper! :)


You can alos see the video below:

the base came out perfectly but the cab was all distort and off where it should be.
any pointers or any help?

In most cases it is important to have adequate cooling of the plastic while 3D printing. Please submit a make with some images so that we can help you further.

Comments deleted.

It says: For a full set of instructions please visit http://3DBenchy.com.
but I can't find the instructions anywhere?
and the troubleshooting section is always empty so how so you tune with this if you new to the art.

Aug 21, 2016 - Modified Aug 21, 2016
CreativeTools - in reply to hootiehoo

Thanks hootiehoo for your comment. We are working on documentation to be released in the near future. Please stay tuned! :)

If you wish you can subscribe to http://newsletter.3DBenchy.com

Why does Slic3r (v1.2.9) say "Auto-repaired (1430 errors)"?
I would have thought such a popular test object would be manifold.

Thanks for your question. :) We don't have the exact answer but think that it has to do with what and how Slic3r interpretes the mesh for "errors".

does it float on water ????

Aug 2, 2016 - Modified Aug 2, 2016
CreativeTools - in reply to fablabolbia

Thanks for asking Fab Lab Olbia :)

.. #3DBenchy does not float in water (yet) but there is a great accessory you can 3D-print to make it float. It is made by Thingiverse user thingiverse.com/dsb007.

Make Benchy Float Accesories: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1598845

Make Benchy Float Accesories
by dsb007

thanks mate ! amazing !!!

I love this model so much that I thought to myself, "I wonder how big I can make this?" The answer? About 3.5 times the size of the original model!!!!! I don't know what the use will be, it might just become a planter for succulents like the little one I made! However it turns out, It'll be amazing. Thank you for making this model!

I know right! I love his model also. I have made one that was 485% bigger than the original size!

Thanks for your kind words about #3DBenchy Captain_Zeta! :) We surely like to print different sizes too and will probably borrow your idea of planting stuff in the cargo area of #3DBenchy. Please share your print as a make if you have the opportunity in the future.

Cheers :)

How doe you dat baby

Can you make a customizer for the bottom text? I want to print some of these for the crew of a sailing journy...

Thanks Synthron for your suggestion. Unfortunately we don't have plans to make a customizable version of #3DBenchy but feel free to edit the file for your own purposes. To see a detailed description of the licence terms, please see: http://3dbenchy.com/license

Where if the file for a flag? Is there supposed to be a flag? Because I saw that there was a hole when I printed mine and I thought, "where's the flag?"

We made the hole as a feature to test small-diameter skew holes. There is no flag file yet but feel free to make your own. You can simply use a small piece of wire or splint of a tooth-pic, as a flag pole. :)

well i recently got my geeetech g2s pro printer (delta rostock) to work.. printed my first test print yesterday.. nothing more than an outher shell to calibrate the best temp for my pits of abs. picked 195 degree C and a bed temp of 50 C reluctantly sliced it with cura as slic3r gives errors... and started to print.

actually started great.. but around lines 90-100 something strange started to happen. I believe it didn't go up anymore.. but forward (y axis / towards me) so spaghetti on one side.. and a distance on the other while not growing.

i could make a picture, but don't understand how to add it to here.
anyone any ideas on this issue. oke i must admitt hat it is not really 3D benchy related more than printer.

kind regards, matt

Your 3d printer didn't hit the maximum height I assume, so the only thing that was wrong was the slicer you used. This file is so high resolution it naturally troubles the slicer. Have you tried printing it again? Or on a different slicer? I printed mine on an UP! Mini and it handled it fine.

I'm trying to do a multipart Printing. Slic3r told me that the STL "3DBenchy_-Multi-part-Single-Hull-_3DBenchy.com.stl" is not manifold and so the result is not good.
Do you have a good STL for this part?

Thanks for your comment. We have noticed that specifically Slic3r is sensitive to this mesh. We recommend you to download netfabb Basic and adapt the mesh.


Unfortunately, netfabb is not able to fix it. I have fixed it by using MeshLab.

Im having trouble with this part too. Would you mind sharing the fixed part?

I installed netfabb.. but the one part file is error free according to netfabb, but still the slicing by slic3r gets really messed up.

I'm able to print and it looks okay, except the windows (all 4) sage a little at the top peak. Any ideas what settings I should look at for correcting that? I get the same results with both PLA and ABS with temp changes applicable to those filaments. Other bridge test prints with much wider spans and smaller overheat material come out perfectly. I'm using Cura on Prusa I3 type printer.

It is difficult to diagnose accurately why the windows sag. The main reason for sagging bridge regions is the movement speed of the extruder in relation to extrusion rate and cooling. These need to be adjusted in the slicing software. Faster movements across the gap and stronger cooling is necessary.

Just printed amazingly on my Lulzbot Mini using esun PetG.

Found out this 3D model has multiple polygon errors that some slicers might not be able to handle. There are several 2 point polygons and some nasty nonplanars that appear to not triple. Will upload a fixed one to Remixes.

have you ever uploaded this?

would be very interested in the link :D thanks in advance :D

I am not able to fix it. I don't blame the uploader, it is probably the STL exporter he is using. I have found CAD programs like Solidworks and Solidedge have STL exporters that make way too many polygons, leave thousands of holes, 2D polygons and huge file sizes. Some slicers are more error compensating than others. Slic3r does not like any bad geometry. I have been able to 3D print Benchy, several of them but never liked the quality of the layers. It also takes way too long to be useful as a benchmark. I use several calibration targets for my troubleshooting benchmarks. The complete Benchy will appear to have few errors in netfabb but trying to fix them creates all kinds of nonplanar polygons. I thought I would go in and fix each part, then assemble the whole thing but all the parts seem to have massive geometry errors. This is just the hull and there are over 23000 holes and thousands of shells.

not bad however I printed at 0.5 scale and now i have to sing my printer to sleep to stop it from have boat related nightmares

prints perfectly on a cube 3 printer

Simplify3d still fail to print this properly

you are wrong, it prints fine. http://imgur.com/a/U8NoE

In what way ? I'm curious as I have it printing on my Hephestos 2 using Simplyfy3d now at 0.05 with no support and (so far) so good...

Jan 11, 2016 - Modified Jan 12, 2016
skelator - in reply to GaspodeX
Bridge Torture Test

fyi i have bridge settings to 50% speed reduction and 80% extrusion mult.

S3D, and Cura, are absolutely horrid at bridging due to them considering the outer layers of the bridge as not being a bridge so they go so fast you get what you are getting. For me it was so fast that it ripped one side off and drug it around then went slow as it was trying, while dragging the left side with it, to print the inner bridge. Go to S3d, or Cura, and home in on the layers where the bridging just begins. Do it by lines not layers and you will see the inner bridge is dark blue (going slow) and the outer string wall is in green (going fast). It is a known bug I saw on their forums since 2013 but has never been addressed and after seeing the same deal in Cura I begin to wonder if the engine, at its core, in s3d is the same as in Cura because Slic3r does not have this issue. For me, especially at $149, this is a deal breaker.

i think you just dont know how to bridge, i print bridges like a mofo on s3d. and benchy prints fine. dont know what your experienceing but they have since fixed it

No, they have not. Go print a 100mm bridge or just look at it because, and I brought this up on their forums, it has NOT been fixed.

https://imgur.com/iypQjUO does this satisfy you. Not a single broke. Or sagging strand

I suggest you read what skelator said BECAUSE that is precisely the bug I was talking about AND it is well laid out so even YOU can see, and understand (it has pretty pictures) what we are talking about.

Jun 30, 2016 - Modified Jun 30, 2016
skelator - in reply to siderala

look at my previous comment and picture, try to print this bridge torture test:


see my detailed posting in S3D forums and contribute if you can

Bridge Torture Test

Exactly, YET the pretty pictures isn't enough to some people. Shows the errors I mentioned where the perimeters of the bridge are not treated correctly but we still manage to get a troll.

im not arguing that when you look at the link you see what is there, i can read, im simply replying to the original comment that this cannot be printed with s3d. then you told me it doesnt to bridges properly. i showed you two examples of how your wrong. its not being a troll when someone says something is not possible and i simply say that it is. ill gladly print the "torture test" if that will help.

I stand by what I, and skelator, has said. It is a known bug for years now (go back on their forum) but has never been fixed.

btw, on the picture you showed why the gap in the middle?

Getting some odd gouging on the port freeboard exactly the same on 2 prints. Like it rode up on the pier. Looks like it will need a dutchman and some chinking. Something is up with my slicer or the model. Looks like the official site is down as well.

I'm printing a 3DBenchy on my new Robo 3D R1+. Its looking really good so far!

You are kidding me with that right? What was the point? If you want to prove something add holds and bulkheads and cabins and hatches.

Yeah! 3DBenchy! Printing mine now. :P

We have now finalised the #3DBenchy STL files for dual- and multi-part color 3D printing! The files are now added to this thing so that everyone can download them and give it a try. :)

Read more about dual-print at http://3dbenchy.com/?p=709

I am having some strange issues with 3DBenchy_-Dualprint-_Hull_Box_Bridge_walls_Rod-holderChimney-_3DBenchy.com.STL when uploading into SLIC3R. Has anyone else experienced any problems? Meshmixer doesnt report any problems. Netfabb will not repair. Thanks!

Thanks ImmersedN3D for informing about the issue with this file. We have also tested this and see that when importing the file Slic3r yields the following message:

  • Auto-repaired (268551 errors)

The STL file has normal issues, meaning that it is made of three shells that have some overlapping triangles on the contact surfaces of these shells.

Maybe Slic3r does interpret this as an critical error and tries to do some auto-repair, which in this case makes the file topology worse. We have seen that in the latest version of the software (1.2.9) the surface of the STL file get all corrupted with holes and inverted surfaces.

One way to give this another try is to see if the auto-repair function in Slic3r can repair can be suppressed so that the software does not modify the topology.

This is very interesting and valuable feedback since one can realise that the #3DBenchy files can also be used to test the capabilities and settings of the different slicing software solutions.

Jul 27, 2015 - Modified Jul 27, 2015
sylefeb - in reply to CreativeTools

Great model, thanks for making this available, and for providing the separate parts! I am having fun printing and tweaking printer settings.

Even though all 'Multi-part' meshes are nicely closed and manifold, I noticed a different issue which can create problematic cases: the union of all the meshes (the different parts) does not exactly reproduce the original. There seems to be tiny 'pockets' in between the meshes - these are very small, much less than a millimeter. My guess would be that when the parts were extracted using the modeling software, it did not produce a perfect complement. If you still have the original shapes used to extract each part (intersection?), I would be interested in trying this out in our own CSG engine -- this is a very interesting use case.


[edit] Just after posting I realized I could do the following: Dilate each part by a very small amount -- 0.001 mm (it 'grows' outward) -- and then take the intersection of the original mesh with this dilation of the part. This extracts a clean shape for each part. The union of all the parts is then strictly identical to the original surface. The color boundary between parts moves at most by 0.001 mm. I am wondering, does this elect for derivative work? (i.e. can I post my file -- an IceSL script -- the original stl are never modified in this process).

Thanks sylefeb for your explanation regarding testing the multi-part STL files. We made these deliberately manually by detaching the different features and closing them. The result was then used in boolean operations, in several steps. We are aware that there are gaps and tiny "imperfections" in this model.

The reason why we decided to make these parts manually in polygon modelling mode, instead of deriving it from the initial "pure" CAD data, is that the purpose of #3DBenchy is twofold. It tests both the hardware (3D printers) and the software (slicers) and how these can adapt for human-made "imperfect" 3D models. In other words, the very small imperfections replicate what what is commonly produced by different varying 3D modelling techniques, and thus it is valuable for developers of slicing and mesh-healing software.

Feel free to send us the files you made and we will gladly analyse and consider publish them in the future. :)

Fair enough - I agree this is a nice test case and that slicers should be robust to that. And indeed, this made me restart work on a small hole filter for IceSL ;-) (even though the offsetting + CSG script completely resolves the issue already).

Jun 15, 2015 - Modified Jun 15, 2015

3DBenchy is killing me! I can get a pretty good print on my Wanhao Duplicator 4S but my Ultimaker 2 is printing it with zebra stripes on the sides of the cabin! I have posted am image with my make from the Duplicator 4S. I am not the only person in the Ultimaker family fighting this but assume that others have either not had the issue or have gotten around it. If the latter, I wonder how?!?!?

I have tried different resolutions, different infills, different orientations on the build platform, different flow rates, different number of shells, and different speeds (though currently trying one more variation of speed). Always the stripes and always on the same two sides of the cabin (but not on the engine box). I have heard that changing acceleration might help but have not figured out how to do that yet!

The fleet of 3DBenchy's that I have printed is getting ridiculous. There is a topic on this on the Utilimaker forum here: https://ultimaker.com/en/tips-and-tricks/view/16357-why-does-my-print-have-tiny-zebra-stripes?page=1#reply-109627

Thanks for posting about your issues regarding #3DBenchy and the stripes. If you mean the diagonal stripes visible on the vertical walls of the cabin, we believe that they are at result of the infill pattern "touching and bulging" on the perimeter lines.

If you open the expert settings in the Cura slice engine, you will be able to see a value called "Infill overlap (%)". The default value is 15%. Try making this smaller and see if the result changes.

I printed at 10% overlap and the lines are still evident. I am not even sure it is worth going lower as the look exactly the same!

This feels like an issue with the Cura slicer except that I get the same thing when I use Simplify3D...which makes it an idiosyncrasy of my particular flavour of Ultimaker 2 (as I find it hard to believe no one prints without Zebra effects)?

I assume that there are other Ultimaker 2's in the wild that can print this with out the lines? Would love to hear a confirmation and if there was anything needed from a profile perspective.

Very cool item. Good idea! I am working on developing some software to help make 3D printers easier to start using. We are looking for BETA users and feedback if you'd please give our 3 minute survey a go! http://bit.ly/3dprinting_survey

Thank you!

We use Printrbot Simple Metal printers with Repetier-Host and Slic3r software. When I go to slice the boat, I get a "box". Any idea how to change that? Never had trouble slicing anything before.


What version of Slic3r? I have tried 1.2.5 and 1.2.7 with good results.

For some reason Slic3r complains that the mesh isn't manifold, but all other software we have tried says that it's a solid mesh. This doesn't seem to have any impact on the sliced result though (not for me anyway).

After importing/exporting it through blender, the manifold errors in slic3r disappears. It seems there is something with the STL-file that slic3r doesn't like.

To cast more light on 3D-print settings we created a dedicated topic on the #3DBenchy Group here on Thingiverse.

Feel free to give us feedback so we can adapt and improve this topic.

Hey everyone, if you want to easily see what settings and printers others are using to get their #3Dbenchy results check this out. You can even win free filament every week for uploading your own Prints!

It's so adorable! Great design, as usual. :D

Thanks for the kind words PrintThatThing! Glad you like our little adventurous boat! :)

oh man. :( it cant float. i was gonna use it in my fish tank just for fun (w/ somthing around the filter so it woudnt sink )

We know! :)

Unfortunately the design of #3DBenchy did not allow for buoyancy :( But fear not! In due time new accessories will be released for this little boat fur such nice decorative uses as in a fish tank.

Stay tuned!

Apr 14, 2015 - Modified Apr 14, 2015

cool prints!!
But can you make a duel color model we could use to test multicolored printers?

Thanks for your comment! :)

Sure thing! In a few days time there will be new 3D files that we will add to this thing. These will be basically an unmodified #3DBenchy (from a externa shape point-of-view) but made for dual print and also a textured version for color-3D-printers.

Stay tuned for the upcoming downloadable files.

Hi, awesome print! What printer did you use?

Hi, awesome print! What printer did you use?

The 3D-printed green #3DBenchy as the main image for this thing was 3D-printed on a RepRap-based 3D printer.

Dziękuję! Cieszymy się, że ci się podobało # 3DBenchy

We are glad you liked #3DBenchy... and had to give Google Translate a try! ;) hope the text was correctly translated.

If the boat house was moved back a bit so it was balanced it would actually float.

Thanks for the suggestion Galaktican! Under the design process we considered making the boat buoyant but it would not have fit the other specifications. In our tests (even the buoyant version) kept capsizing :) since it also is too top-heavy. Having made a compromise we opted for the current design and size.

The object alone doesn't seem very valuable, as I do not think the problem is that there is a shortage of calibration objects on Thingiverse, it is that most people have no idea how to adjust the appropriate settings in their slicer or related printer software. While the PDF calls out many specific features of the test, it gives you no idea whatsoever as to how to interpret the data. This SEEMS aimed at a total novice consumer, but fails to provide actionable guidance to such an individual.

That said, this is neat and I hope the guide gets HEAVILY expanded upon. :)

Thank you donstratton for your comment. We totally understand and also feel that there is so much more to calibrating a 3D printer than to just printing one single object.

The reason why we designed #3DBenchy is because we realised that after almost seven years of FFF 3D printing, we must have made thousands of small 20x20x10 and countless benchmarking parts. After printing them we just threw them away into the trashcan.

With #3DBenchy we tried to put as many specific shapes and surfaces into a single and small model, that one also can recognise as a model and maybe keep or give it away to a child (or adult!) :)

Realising that any benchmarking part is a compromise, we will also add more value to it in the future regarding hints on how to actually calibrate and get the most out of a 3D printer.

We promise that we will heavily expand upon #3DBenchy and really look forward to this! Stay tuned here on:

#3DBenchy - The jolly 3D printing torture-test

So, Is there a calibration object on Thingiverse that does describe how to adjust settings for a given problem?

Comments deleted.

I can't even get Slic3r to slice this properly.

We just tried in version 1.2.5 of Slic3r and it worked well.

See image: https://www.flickr.com/photos/3dbenchy/16525321913/

Try downloading the latest version of Slic3r.org and use fresh default print settings, to see if it works for you.

Great model. Thanks!

Really cool! I made one in Carbon fiber-reinforced filament and have already found some areas where i can calibrate my printer to work better! The guide in the pdf was great!