#3DBenchy - The jolly 3D printing torture-test

by CreativeTools, published

#3DBenchy - The jolly 3D printing torture-test by CreativeTools Apr 9, 2015

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#3DBenchy is a 3D model specifically designed for testing and benchmarking 3D printers. It is a small recognisable object that you can download for free, make and share.

It is designed to 3D-print quickly and be a fun tool for calibrating your 3D printer. There is a single-part STL file for 3D printing the boat in one material, and a multi-part STL assembly to be used for multi-material/printhead 3D printing.

Documenting the results

You can use the Smartphone Photo Studio for 3DBenchy to easily take photos and share the results of your 3D print. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1085472



We invite you to join the community and talk about 3D printing with #3DBenchy

You can visit 3DBenchy.com for more information on how to use #3DBenchy.

You can also search the internet to find more about #3DBenchy.

Follow the #3DBenchy boat on ...

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We invite you to join the the Thingiverse Group for #3DBenchy to discuss different aspects about 3D-print settings. http://www.thingiverse.com/groups/3dbenchy

For a full set of instructions please visit http://3DBenchy.com. You can also search for the tag #3DBenchy on social media to see what other 3D-printer users have made.

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I love this model so much that I thought to myself, "I wonder how big I can make this?" The answer? About 3.5 times the size of the original model!!!!! I don't know what the use will be, it might just become a planter for succulents like the little one I made! However it turns out, It'll be amazing. Thank you for making this model!

Thanks for your kind words about #3DBenchy Captain_Zeta! :) We surely like to print different sizes too and will probably borrow your idea of planting stuff in the cargo area of #3DBenchy. Please share your print as a make if you have the opportunity in the future.

Cheers :)

How doe you dat baby

Can you make a customizer for the bottom text? I want to print some of these for the crew of a sailing journy...

Thanks Synthron for your suggestion. Unfortunately we don't have plans to make a customizable version of #3DBenchy but feel free to edit the file for your own purposes. To see a detailed description of the licence terms, please see: http://3dbenchy.com/license

Where if the file for a flag? Is there supposed to be a flag? Because I saw that there was a hole when I printed mine and I thought, "where's the flag?"

We made the hole as a feature to test small-diameter skew holes. There is no flag file yet but feel free to make your own. You can simply use a small piece of wire or splint of a tooth-pic, as a flag pole. :)

well i recently got my geeetech g2s pro printer (delta rostock) to work.. printed my first test print yesterday.. nothing more than an outher shell to calibrate the best temp for my pits of abs. picked 195 degree C and a bed temp of 50 C reluctantly sliced it with cura as slic3r gives errors... and started to print.

actually started great.. but around lines 90-100 something strange started to happen. I believe it didn't go up anymore.. but forward (y axis / towards me) so spaghetti on one side.. and a distance on the other while not growing.

i could make a picture, but don't understand how to add it to here.
anyone any ideas on this issue. oke i must admitt hat it is not really 3D benchy related more than printer.

kind regards, matt

Your 3d printer didn't hit the maximum height I assume, so the only thing that was wrong was the slicer you used. This file is so high resolution it naturally troubles the slicer. Have you tried printing it again? Or on a different slicer? I printed mine on an UP! Mini and it handled it fine.

I'm trying to do a multipart Printing. Slic3r told me that the STL "3DBenchy_-Multi-part-Single-Hull-_3DBenchy.com.stl" is not manifold and so the result is not good.
Do you have a good STL for this part?

Thanks for your comment. We have noticed that specifically Slic3r is sensitive to this mesh. We recommend you to download netfabb Basic and adapt the mesh.


I installed netfabb.. but the one part file is error free according to netfabb, but still the slicing by slic3r gets really messed up.

I'm able to print and it looks okay, except the windows (all 4) sage a little at the top peak. Any ideas what settings I should look at for correcting that? I get the same results with both PLA and ABS with temp changes applicable to those filaments. Other bridge test prints with much wider spans and smaller overheat material come out perfectly. I'm using Cura on Prusa I3 type printer.

It is difficult to diagnose accurately why the windows sag. The main reason for sagging bridge regions is the movement speed of the extruder in relation to extrusion rate and cooling. These need to be adjusted in the slicing software. Faster movements across the gap and stronger cooling is necessary.

Just printed amazingly on my Lulzbot Mini using esun PetG.

Found out this 3D model has multiple polygon errors that some slicers might not be able to handle. There are several 2 point polygons and some nasty nonplanars that appear to not triple. Will upload a fixed one to Remixes.

have you ever uploaded this?

would be very interested in the link :D thanks in advance :D

I am not able to fix it. I don't blame the uploader, it is probably the STL exporter he is using. I have found CAD programs like Solidworks and Solidedge have STL exporters that make way too many polygons, leave thousands of holes, 2D polygons and huge file sizes. Some slicers are more error compensating than others. Slic3r does not like any bad geometry. I have been able to 3D print Benchy, several of them but never liked the quality of the layers. It also takes way too long to be useful as a benchmark. I use several calibration targets for my troubleshooting benchmarks. The complete Benchy will appear to have few errors in netfabb but trying to fix them creates all kinds of nonplanar polygons. I thought I would go in and fix each part, then assemble the whole thing but all the parts seem to have massive geometry errors. This is just the hull and there are over 23000 holes and thousands of shells.

not bad however I printed at 0.5 scale and now i have to sing my printer to sleep to stop it from have boat related nightmares

prints perfectly on a cube 3 printer

Simplify3d still fail to print this properly

In what way ? I'm curious as I have it printing on my Hephestos 2 using Simplyfy3d now at 0.05 with no support and (so far) so good...

Jan 11, 2016 - Modified Jan 12, 2016
skelator - in reply to GaspodeX
Bridge Torture Test

S3D, and Cura, are absolutely horrid at bridging due to them considering the outer layers of the bridge as not being a bridge so they go so fast you get what you are getting. For me it was so fast that it ripped one side off and drug it around then went slow as it was trying, while dragging the left side with it, to print the inner bridge. Go to S3d, or Cura, and home in on the layers where the bridging just begins. Do it by lines not layers and you will see the inner bridge is dark blue (going slow) and the outer string wall is in green (going fast). It is a known bug I saw on their forums since 2013 but has never been addressed and after seeing the same deal in Cura I begin to wonder if the engine, at its core, in s3d is the same as in Cura because Slic3r does not have this issue. For me, especially at $149, this is a deal breaker.

Getting some odd gouging on the port freeboard exactly the same on 2 prints. Like it rode up on the pier. Looks like it will need a dutchman and some chinking. Something is up with my slicer or the model. Looks like the official site is down as well.

I'm printing a 3DBenchy on my new Robo 3D R1+. Its looking really good so far!

You are kidding me with that right? What was the point? If you want to prove something add holds and bulkheads and cabins and hatches.

Yeah! 3DBenchy! Printing mine now. :P

We have now finalised the #3DBenchy STL files for dual- and multi-part color 3D printing! The files are now added to this thing so that everyone can download them and give it a try. :)

Read more about dual-print at http://3dbenchy.com/?p=709

I am having some strange issues with 3DBenchy_-Dualprint-_Hull_Box_Bridge_walls_Rod-holderChimney-_3DBenchy.com.STL when uploading into SLIC3R. Has anyone else experienced any problems? Meshmixer doesnt report any problems. Netfabb will not repair. Thanks!

Thanks ImmersedN3D for informing about the issue with this file. We have also tested this and see that when importing the file Slic3r yields the following message:

  • Auto-repaired (268551 errors)

The STL file has normal issues, meaning that it is made of three shells that have some overlapping triangles on the contact surfaces of these shells.

Maybe Slic3r does interpret this as an critical error and tries to do some auto-repair, which in this case makes the file topology worse. We have seen that in the latest version of the software (1.2.9) the surface of the STL file get all corrupted with holes and inverted surfaces.

One way to give this another try is to see if the auto-repair function in Slic3r can repair can be suppressed so that the software does not modify the topology.

This is very interesting and valuable feedback since one can realise that the #3DBenchy files can also be used to test the capabilities and settings of the different slicing software solutions.

Jul 27, 2015 - Modified Jul 27, 2015
sylefeb - in reply to CreativeTools

Great model, thanks for making this available, and for providing the separate parts! I am having fun printing and tweaking printer settings.

Even though all 'Multi-part' meshes are nicely closed and manifold, I noticed a different issue which can create problematic cases: the union of all the meshes (the different parts) does not exactly reproduce the original. There seems to be tiny 'pockets' in between the meshes - these are very small, much less than a millimeter. My guess would be that when the parts were extracted using the modeling software, it did not produce a perfect complement. If you still have the original shapes used to extract each part (intersection?), I would be interested in trying this out in our own CSG engine -- this is a very interesting use case.


[edit] Just after posting I realized I could do the following: Dilate each part by a very small amount -- 0.001 mm (it 'grows' outward) -- and then take the intersection of the original mesh with this dilation of the part. This extracts a clean shape for each part. The union of all the parts is then strictly identical to the original surface. The color boundary between parts moves at most by 0.001 mm. I am wondering, does this elect for derivative work? (i.e. can I post my file -- an IceSL script -- the original stl are never modified in this process).

Thanks sylefeb for your explanation regarding testing the multi-part STL files. We made these deliberately manually by detaching the different features and closing them. The result was then used in boolean operations, in several steps. We are aware that there are gaps and tiny "imperfections" in this model.

The reason why we decided to make these parts manually in polygon modelling mode, instead of deriving it from the initial "pure" CAD data, is that the purpose of #3DBenchy is twofold. It tests both the hardware (3D printers) and the software (slicers) and how these can adapt for human-made "imperfect" 3D models. In other words, the very small imperfections replicate what what is commonly produced by different varying 3D modelling techniques, and thus it is valuable for developers of slicing and mesh-healing software.

Feel free to send us the files you made and we will gladly analyse and consider publish them in the future. :)

Fair enough - I agree this is a nice test case and that slicers should be robust to that. And indeed, this made me restart work on a small hole filter for IceSL ;-) (even though the offsetting + CSG script completely resolves the issue already).

Jun 15, 2015 - Modified Jun 15, 2015

3DBenchy is killing me! I can get a pretty good print on my Wanhao Duplicator 4S but my Ultimaker 2 is printing it with zebra stripes on the sides of the cabin! I have posted am image with my make from the Duplicator 4S. I am not the only person in the Ultimaker family fighting this but assume that others have either not had the issue or have gotten around it. If the latter, I wonder how?!?!?

I have tried different resolutions, different infills, different orientations on the build platform, different flow rates, different number of shells, and different speeds (though currently trying one more variation of speed). Always the stripes and always on the same two sides of the cabin (but not on the engine box). I have heard that changing acceleration might help but have not figured out how to do that yet!

The fleet of 3DBenchy's that I have printed is getting ridiculous. There is a topic on this on the Utilimaker forum here: https://ultimaker.com/en/tips-and-tricks/view/16357-why-does-my-print-have-tiny-zebra-stripes?page=1#reply-109627

Thanks for posting about your issues regarding #3DBenchy and the stripes. If you mean the diagonal stripes visible on the vertical walls of the cabin, we believe that they are at result of the infill pattern "touching and bulging" on the perimeter lines.

If you open the expert settings in the Cura slice engine, you will be able to see a value called "Infill overlap (%)". The default value is 15%. Try making this smaller and see if the result changes.

I printed at 10% overlap and the lines are still evident. I am not even sure it is worth going lower as the look exactly the same!

This feels like an issue with the Cura slicer except that I get the same thing when I use Simplify3D...which makes it an idiosyncrasy of my particular flavour of Ultimaker 2 (as I find it hard to believe no one prints without Zebra effects)?

I assume that there are other Ultimaker 2's in the wild that can print this with out the lines? Would love to hear a confirmation and if there was anything needed from a profile perspective.

Very cool item. Good idea! I am working on developing some software to help make 3D printers easier to start using. We are looking for BETA users and feedback if you'd please give our 3 minute survey a go! http://bit.ly/3dprinting_survey

Thank you!

We use Printrbot Simple Metal printers with Repetier-Host and Slic3r software. When I go to slice the boat, I get a "box". Any idea how to change that? Never had trouble slicing anything before.


What version of Slic3r? I have tried 1.2.5 and 1.2.7 with good results.

For some reason Slic3r complains that the mesh isn't manifold, but all other software we have tried says that it's a solid mesh. This doesn't seem to have any impact on the sliced result though (not for me anyway).

After importing/exporting it through blender, the manifold errors in slic3r disappears. It seems there is something with the STL-file that slic3r doesn't like.

To cast more light on 3D-print settings we created a dedicated topic on the #3DBenchy Group here on Thingiverse.

Feel free to give us feedback so we can adapt and improve this topic.

Hey everyone, if you want to easily see what settings and printers others are using to get their #3Dbenchy results check this out. You can even win free filament every week for uploading your own Prints!

It's so adorable! Great design, as usual. :D

Thanks for the kind words PrintThatThing! Glad you like our little adventurous boat! :)

oh man. :( it cant float. i was gonna use it in my fish tank just for fun (w/ somthing around the filter so it woudnt sink )

We know! :)

Unfortunately the design of #3DBenchy did not allow for buoyancy :( But fear not! In due time new accessories will be released for this little boat fur such nice decorative uses as in a fish tank.

Stay tuned!

Apr 14, 2015 - Modified Apr 14, 2015

cool prints!!
But can you make a duel color model we could use to test multicolored printers?

Thanks for your comment! :)

Sure thing! In a few days time there will be new 3D files that we will add to this thing. These will be basically an unmodified #3DBenchy (from a externa shape point-of-view) but made for dual print and also a textured version for color-3D-printers.

Stay tuned for the upcoming downloadable files.

Hi, awesome print! What printer did you use?

Hi, awesome print! What printer did you use?

The 3D-printed green #3DBenchy as the main image for this thing was 3D-printed on a RepRap-based 3D printer.

Dziękuję! Cieszymy się, że ci się podobało # 3DBenchy

We are glad you liked #3DBenchy... and had to give Google Translate a try! ;) hope the text was correctly translated.

If the boat house was moved back a bit so it was balanced it would actually float.

Thanks for the suggestion Galaktican! Under the design process we considered making the boat buoyant but it would not have fit the other specifications. In our tests (even the buoyant version) kept capsizing :) since it also is too top-heavy. Having made a compromise we opted for the current design and size.

The object alone doesn't seem very valuable, as I do not think the problem is that there is a shortage of calibration objects on Thingiverse, it is that most people have no idea how to adjust the appropriate settings in their slicer or related printer software. While the PDF calls out many specific features of the test, it gives you no idea whatsoever as to how to interpret the data. This SEEMS aimed at a total novice consumer, but fails to provide actionable guidance to such an individual.

That said, this is neat and I hope the guide gets HEAVILY expanded upon. :)

Thank you donstratton for your comment. We totally understand and also feel that there is so much more to calibrating a 3D printer than to just printing one single object.

The reason why we designed #3DBenchy is because we realised that after almost seven years of FFF 3D printing, we must have made thousands of small 20x20x10 and countless benchmarking parts. After printing them we just threw them away into the trashcan.

With #3DBenchy we tried to put as many specific shapes and surfaces into a single and small model, that one also can recognise as a model and maybe keep or give it away to a child (or adult!) :)

Realising that any benchmarking part is a compromise, we will also add more value to it in the future regarding hints on how to actually calibrate and get the most out of a 3D printer.

We promise that we will heavily expand upon #3DBenchy and really look forward to this! Stay tuned here on:

#3DBenchy - The jolly 3D printing torture-test

So, Is there a calibration object on Thingiverse that does describe how to adjust settings for a given problem?

This comment has been deleted.

I can't even get Slic3r to slice this properly.

We just tried in version 1.2.5 of Slic3r and it worked well.

See image: https://www.flickr.com/photos/3dbenchy/16525321913/

Try downloading the latest version of Slic3r.org and use fresh default print settings, to see if it works for you.

Great model. Thanks!

Really cool! I made one in Carbon fiber-reinforced filament and have already found some areas where i can calibrate my printer to work better! The guide in the pdf was great!