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Easy printing Electric Violin.

by firecardenal, published

Easy printing Electric Violin. by firecardenal Apr 11, 2015
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Summary

Thanks to Stepan83 for the Elviolin.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:745940
its design has inspired me.

In this version:
I modified some parts to facilitate printing without supports
I have given a different and modern look.
And I've added a integrated chinrest support.

All parts can be printed without supports, except for the chinrest

Recomended printing parameters:

5 Shell thickness.
4 top down solid thickness.
20 to 30 % infill
0.20mm. layer heights.

If you print on ABS filament, you can use acetone or PVC pipe glue to bind the parties. If you print on PLA, then use a epoxi glue.

You can use a sanding papper and patching paste for automotive jobs to leave a smooth surface to paint on color of your choice.
Dont forguet to use a primer paint before the application color.

you can find on ebay the electronics.
Find as electric violin pickup.

Use a 9.5mm threaded rod as steel core to stronger the violin body.

Instructions

Instructions
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:745940/#instructions

materials list:
Printed parts - 6pcs
bridge - 1pcs
sound pickup - 1pcs
electronic preamp - 1pcs
guitar pegs - 4pcs
metal rod M8x370 - 1pcs
screws:
m4x25 - 9pcs
m4x50 - 1pcs
m4x40 - 2pcs
m3x8 - 4pcs (for pegs)
m2x10 - 4pcs (for electronic preamp)

nuts:
m4 - 12pcs
m3 long nut - 4pcs for hot installation in holes (for pegs screws)

m2x10 - screws for electronic preamp I melt it directly in plastic

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There's a hole at the very bottom of the base that almost goes all the way through, and there's a slot in the last neck piece (where the tuners get installed) and a hole there as well that all look like they are sized for an M5 bolt and nut. Is everyone just ignoring that hole and not bothering to install hardware there?

The instructions say to feed a threaded rod through that hole, for added rigidity.

Has anyone used PLA on the neck? How does it hold up if its stored under tension? I usually get stress fractures on PLA in a day or 2 if left under constant load.

Feb 23, 2017 - Modified Feb 23, 2017
Jaxelsson - in reply to DevWolf

I'm using PLA for the neck. So far so good. I would think it would depend on your print settings and the amount plastic you use for the print. Maybe print direction too. I hope to have time to experiment with how much plastic is necessary to find the right combination of lightness, strength and good sound. My first neck was 4 mm walls with 20% infill and of course the truss rod.

I have found that too but interestingly enough I found a video on YouTube the other day where the guy put three different materials into an oven and he said that the PLA had the best outcome. I haven't tried it myself but I think it could work rather well for this.

https://youtu.be/CZX8eHC7fws

Where can I get the stl file for the bridge?

Has anyone tried this pickup/preamp combo with it? http://a.co/hJRQ79Z

Wondering if it is the same size as: http://a.co/1Zk2ePA (which looks like the same as the eBay one)

I bought that one from Amazon, and I will be installing it when I put my violin together. It does match the screw holes in the violin base. The pickup has a plug at the end of it for the board, which is nice, but the wires on the pickup are too short (and the plug won't pass through the violin neck anyway), so I'll have to cut the wires, splice in a wire extension of a few inches, and pass the wires through the hole in the neck before I solder the end with the plug back on. I still think soldering wires together is easier than soldering to a board, so I think it's a good option.

Stevepax, I went ahead and used one of these for my similar ElViolin mod, and it did work with two caveats. 1. Bumps up against my lowest tuner a little bit so not a perfect fit but can be adjusted for. 2. The pick up wire was just long enough to reach but I had to use pliers to plug it in. And the best way to get it through the hole in the neck (part two) was to pop the contacts out of the plastic plug to make it just small enough to slip through. You need small and delicate fingers but it works. Don't forget to mark which side was black. :-)
I did find a challenge with the pick up wire hole and the threaded rod going through the same spot so I initially drilled a hole to the side of the truss rod. But I have now also created a new STL file that moves the hole to the sides of the truss rod. Once I have tested it I will upload it to The Mina Violin mod.

Comments deleted.

oh by the way mine is in playing progress lol

thanks for this i made it the main body in 1 piece with carbon fil petg 45% infill and 2 shells at 0.2mm layers and then i used woodfil pla for the bottom part of the violin stand then the top underside piece in orange abs then the chin piece in purple abs man it looks sick near to no prep work little sanding where their was some supports and i just clear laquered it cheers guys and dolls i was so impressed that i tipped you
thanks again ps i made a bracket for the bottom to mount the pickup and the jack plug plus 2 new nobs for it in wood fill wish i could post some pictures

Hey firecardenal! When the 8mm rod is inserted into the channel, how are you supposed to get the cable of the pickup through the hole where the bridge resides?

Ok got it.

Question about the perimeter/shell thickness. 5 perimeters bump up the print time.

Did someone print it with a less perimeters?
Does the sound quality differ then?

Ok got it.

I am having trouble finding an online source for the M8x370 mm rod, any suggestions? I am in the North East US if that helps. Preferably looking for an online order.

I haven't tried it yet, but it could be possible to substitute the 8 mm rod for a 5/16" one cut to about 14.5".

Sep 29, 2016 - Modified Sep 29, 2016

Pardon the dumb question, but how large does the print bed need to be in order to print this? How large is the completed instrument?

My print bed is 220 x 220 and it fits just fine. The biggest piece in terms of X and Y is the body, but the neck pieces are fairly tall. It should be about normal violin length when finished, so my guess is around 16".

I've got all the parts, currently sanding/filling, all fits together great.

But perhaps someone can help me with assembling the bridge/pickup part of things. Violin bridges have angled feet to fit the curvature of a real violin, but this one is flat. Should I file the bridge flat? Should I print an angled insert / shim? How did you do this?

Yes, you can use sandpaper to obtain a flat surface. It is not necessary to do so completely, with a little enough.

has anyone recorded how their violin sounds?

As far as I know, nobody has. But, I know someone who has printed and made one of these, and it sounds great. I hope this helped.

-PrintingForTheFuture

Hi, this is a great great model. Very well designed.

Clueless non-violinist question -- the middle body part has a small lip where it adjoins to the neck, which is quite visible in the model (so it's not an artifact of my printer :-)). This results in something like a "fret" when assembled. Violins and electric violins do not have this, I think. Does it serve a purpose, or should it be filed / sanded off?

One more question -- how do you get your model as smooth as in your pictures? How do you remove the Z lines etc.?

Hello, thank you for giving notice of this problem.
It must be a mistake on my part in the last update.

Whenever I get some time I'll check and will upload the new model.

Thanks again.
Rafael.

Is there any way to split the first easy print file into three individual objects for printing? My computer keeps freezing up when trying to cut it because of the high amount of faces. 123d.

Thanks !

Slic3r allows that quite easily. Just click "Split" from the icon bar, then delete the parts you don't want.

I have been printing it over the last couple days. The lower, and middle neck both took about nine hours. The top neck piece looks like it will be about seven. Perhaps my print speed is slow, but it comes out well. I am using a 0.4mm nozzle with a 0.2mm layer height 24% honeycomb infill.

Hello firecardenal,

Would you perhaps be able to tell me how long each part of the violin takes to print? If you could get back to me on this it would be a big help in my build process of this beautiful violin!

Thanks,
TSD45

Would you mind posting a the STL files so that the angled components print laying on their side? Having the layers printed long ways makes the print more robust. I tried rotating them flat in Slic3r but it would only get close to flat and only print half of the neck on the first layer. Thanks for making this! Super excited to have a violin when it's finished :)

Where can I get the hardware such as screws?

I got most of the hardware at Home Depot for the first make, but I have also ordered larger quantities of hardware from Amazon. For this and other Thingiverse projects that require less common hardware, mcmaster.com has also proved very helpful.

Amazon also now has a very similar pickup that attaches by clip rather than solder:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SY3OF4C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This requires modification of the bridge section because the pickup is much shorter than the one that has to be soldered.

Here's another link for the silent pickup- not from ebay (4-4-16):
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/NEW-DIY-PROJECT-ELECTRIC-GUITAR-BUILDER-KIT-LP-STYLE-FLAMED-MAPLE-TOP-BASSWOOD-KIT/1864094286.html?spm=2114.40010308.4.18.P9CEko

but an ebay search for "silent violin pickup" will lead to the same part for $18.99 vs. $49.99 off ebay. Ebay is also where I got the M8 rod, but mcmaster.com also has a wide selection of rods.

the ebay link is dead. would be awesome if this had a bom with a list of the part names so we can search other websites, ebay is terrible.

Hello,

Here's another link to the correct pickup/electronics on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Violin-Silent-EQ-Pickup-Piezo-W-Mic-Phone-Plug-Hole-Battery-Pack-/220905780299?hash=item336f02b44b:g:82EAAOxyBvZTQpkx
This model is a perfect fit.

We did move the hole for the pickup wire off-center and down through the slot for the nut, and then I changed the bottom channel to come from new location to the original exit in the middle. We just insert the nut before the pickup wires. Works great!

Have fun! This is a great violin!!!

Is this thing a 4/4 (Full size) violin??

Absolutely! And it sounds great!

Is this designed to use a specific preamp? If so which one? I'd like to know the answer about the rod that someone else asked as well.

Hello Amadon,

I used the preamp listed in the details from ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/usr/lvjiajia1703?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754
It fits perfect and works great!!
I used the M8 threaded rod - could only find an M8 meter rod on ebay and had to cut it down. This is a great violin!!!! Kudos to Firecardenal!!

Awesome. I found the preamp after some digging last night. LOL Shoulda updated my comment sorry.

For the threaded rod. Does it act as a truss rod as in you put nuts on it and tighten it?

Not so much a truss rod, although that's what we call it. It gives the body rigidity to support the tension on the strings - at least that's how we see it. Firecardenal can give you a more specific description.
We've used the rod in two configurations. The first time that we sliced to gcode and printed, the center channel was big enough to allow the M8 rod to slide in and out easily during assembly but stay in place once assembled - worked great! The second time, using different slicer and configs, the channel was a perfect fit with the M8 threads and the rod was screwed into the parts (just completed the violin last night). Of the two, I prefer the looser fit because it's very easy to work with and quicker to assemble.
The quality of both is great!! - and number 3 violin will be finished soon too.

firecardenal, What program did you use to design this?

Rhinoceros

Sorry, i want to know where can i find the stl of bridge?
Thanks.

You mention in the info that you used a 9.5mm threaded rod... but in the instructions you're using an M8 metal rod... smooth or threaded? and which one is it 9.5 or 8?

Thanks

Can you upload each individual part as its own STL file?

It is better to print one at a time just in case the printer jams or whatever.

Some slicers and printer interfaces can exclude regions and parts. I use pronterface and there's a menu to select the area that a part is in and it skips all gcode commands that involve that region.

Hi, I wanted to know that you used bridge, or whatever stl file. so I print it and upload it.

Waiting the photos of printed version.

Thanks stepan83

well, not finished but is on track.
I uploaded some pictures.
Hope you like.
In a few days will be fully completed.

Thanks for comment.

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