Cyrus 3D Printer

by Cyrus3D, published

Cyrus 3D Printer by Cyrus3D Apr 19, 2013


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This version has become obsolete. I am currently working on a new version which is stronger and lighter. The new version will have build envelope of 20cm x 20cm x 20cm. If you need to have a bigger print envelope, I would advice to either upgrade to 20mm extrustion profile or openbeams with this design.

The reason: at higher speeds the makerbeams can cause flexing of the frame which can have influence on the print quality (not major but still).

Another thing to consider, if you are building this with frames, put dampers on it to reduce the noise of the casing. If you can afford it, go for acrylic, or to play it safe, go for 20mm extrustion/openbeams and then use acrylic casing.

My advice is, if you like the Cyrus printer, the design, mechanics etc... hold on with building one because the new version will be much better ;)

I Still need to add the BOM list and instructions to assembly it, although if you look at the renders, it's quite straight forward for the people who can't wait for it.

The files are free for everyone to use, replicate for your mates, your brother, sister, neighbor. But It has it's limitations, no Commercial use of the files thank you :).

Please if you like this design and you are downloading it, press the like button. It shows some appreciation and gives me motivation :)

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Where can I find an image that shows the connection of the belts?
From the images currently available can not understand
Thank you and congratulations for the great work

Hi sasan

Please I need the marlin configuration to activate the H-Bot system that you use in the cyrus, I hope you can help me.

thans for your time.

Hi farias,
I've moved away from marlin to repetier. but if you are using marlin, you have to uncomment the "corexy" line in the config file to enable the h-bot XY movement. if you enabled it and you are getting weird movements, try swap the X and Y motor wires, or try playing with the invert function of the X and Y motor. good luck!.

p.s. I would recommend to port over to repetier firmware as it is in my opinion a bit cleaner and the updates are more regular.

thanks man, in the firmware repetier how you do? to activate the H bot system.

when will you have? the new version of cyrus.

You need to change the "#define DRIVE_SYSTEM" value to either 1 or 2 depending on your wiring I believe.. good luck! :)

ok thanks

hey sasan you made a nice work with the cyrus printer, I congratulate to you, is there a possibility that you could upload BOM list and instructions to assembly?
thanks men

Hi Farias, thanks for the kinds words. I've never made the BOM. I've made so many adjustments in the past months that this design has become obsolete. I'm finalizing the new version which will be available soon. If you do decide to go ahead with this design please use the pictures, renders and files as guidelines to create a more suitable one for your own liking.

The solidworks files are available at:

I would advice to get rid of the sideplate and upgrade the framework to openbeam or 20x20 profiles. the huge printbed requires a very stable and sturdy frame. good luck and happy thinkering!

thanks man for your help, good luck with the new version of cyrus printer, I hope can see the new cyrus.

thanks man for your help me, good luck with the new version of cyrus printer.

hey is there a possibility that you could upload all the parts for the assembled version?

in which format?

i dont know what format you have, but some i can take some measurements on, like ipt, idw....

IPT and IDW are both autodesk formats, I've made this in solidworks, only useful format I can think of is IGES or STEP....

hmm. iges or step might would work, maybe if you have the parts in .sldprt or something like that?

hey, what type of extruder are you using?

Hi this version used the QU-BD extruder

can u upload the assembled file plx

what do you mean exactly? assembled version in STL format?

sure :D

It's uploade, second picture :). Mind you to use it as a guideline to the inner workings etc, I strongly suggest to use either openbeam or bigger profiles if you want to have it less noisy and more stable . Good luck ;)

thanks :D

Wanting to build one of these, and want the larger size. ;)
How long do you believe it may be before the updated details are available?

If you are looking to build the bigger version, it will off course increase the cost. You need then at least 400watt power supply because the rubber heater alone to heat the platform needs 20A, and the rubber heater itself is not that cheap either.

The new design is scaleable and it doesn't need allot of changes, downside is the cost. I think scaling it up from an printsize of 20cm to 30cm will cost an additional 150/200 usd.

The new design uses only linear guides and ballscrews, hence the bigger, more expensive :). the updated details are still at least 2 months away, I need to test it proper before releasing anything.

If you NEED the bigger print envelope maybe the QU-BD printer can offer a compromise. Theirs cost like 1000usd. For people living in USA this is not expensive, but for people in europe the shipping alone cost 250usd. and for 1250usd, most people in europe grab an alternative.

You are right with regards to the Z platform, support on all sides is better but it would mean more machining, more parts, possible extra nema 17 motor thus more costs. That's why most printers are built this way, to keep it cheap, easy to assemble, but take more time to callibrate.

So if you want something off the shelve, in my personal opinion, QU-BD is decent for the price. but if you want to build something yourself, don't spare expenses. You might safe yourself 200usd but you will end up hating yourself when you are spending hours on callibration ;).

good luck!

Like the enclosed design, seems to be the way to go next. What is the frame made from? ie alloy extrusion or rod?


The frame is made of makerbeam, I will be moving to openbeam, it is 50% bigger and you can use standard M3 nut. The Z axis is your standard one, threaded rod and spider coupling. What it makes it special though is the triangle shape. which is similar to the original bits from bytes 3d printer.

Can't get Slic3r to create gcode for the slidezrechts.stl file. There may be an issue with that file. Can you upload another? All other files seem to be fine.

I've re uploaded it for you.


It uses HBOT, marlin firmware with corexy enabled. There is no BOM/Instruction ready yet. Will update once finished :)

Thats awesome. How fast can you print with it? Also what bed material are you using?

It really depends on what file you are printing, I've done 150mm/s ( take in consideration there is a nema 17 moving at those speeds) with easy files..
while some files needed to be slow to 80mm/s to get nice quality.

I would think if you rip the head off and make it bowden... you can get some scary speeds ;).

I am actually testing a bowden setup, designing the files for it :).