Ultimaker 2 Aluminum Extrusion 3D printer

by jasonatepaint, published

Ultimaker 2 Aluminum Extrusion 3D printer by jasonatepaint May 17, 2015

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This is not The Greatest UM2 Clone, no.
This is just a tribute.

This project began as a fun way to learn AutoDesk Fusion 360. I started by importing the entire Solidworks CAD file into a new Fusion 360 project, dropped the frame (walls) from the printer, built 20x20 Misumi aluminum extrusions to wrap the printer guts and then worked to build brackets to support all the parts that previously attached to the frame.

I've been printing nonstop on this new printer with the same precision and quality as my real UM2. In fact, I can use the same GCODE in either machine with identical results.

A360 Source Download Link - Use this link to download a copy of the source (in your CAD flavor).


Bill of Materials - This list provides 99% of the parts you'll need.

Build Instructions - A supplement to the official UM2 assembly guide to address instructions specific to this printer.

All parts were printed in PLA, in Cura, using 3 shells w/20% infill.

I am running both the official and aluminum extrusion Ultimaker's with 1.75mm filament. Ultimately it'll be up to you to decide what filament gauge you want to use. Often it comes down to what filament you already have in bulk. :-) For that reason, I haven't included the parts to complete the hotend/extruder in the BOM. If you choose to go with the default 3mm setup, you can acquire the parts thru one the the sellers in the BOM. If you choose to use 1.75, I have included some additional parts to print and more info in the build instructions. In either case, the knurled drive gear in the BOM will work for both filament sizes.

Buying Parts

The prices in the BOM are most likely out of date. Use the links in the BOM to find the parts. I had good experiences with all of the sellers I dealt with and found the parts to be close-to if not identical to official parts. This includes the 1.75mm version of the UM2 nozzle/heatblock.

The BOM has a breakdown to buy all the parts to build the Z-axis platform/heated bed or to buy the official UM2 heated bed kit (which is actually intended for the UMO+). The cost of getting the kit is only $15 more when you calculate the PSU and lead screw Z-axis motor. There's also a small electronics board which acts as a relay for powering the heaterboard with the 24PSU and outputing 19V for the UMO. It's not needed, but an added bonus for a future project. :-) The kit is going to be easier... but it depends on how patient and adventurous you are.

Floor of the Printer

My printer is using 1/4" acrylic that I bought from Lowes and cut on a 20x12 laser cutter. I sanded the underside to create a frosted look. I would have cut it as a single piece but the laser cutter was just a tad too small. This is why it's 2 pieces joined with 3D printed connectors and screws. I have included the CorelDraw file and the floor connectors.

Update 1

  • Updated all Gantry parts to adjust tolerances for bearing fitment. After assembling another printer, I've found that they needed a .1mm increase.
  • Updated Y-Axis Motor Mount to allow for room of the belt.
  • Updated X-Axis Motor Mount to allow for screw space

New files all have _v2 prefix. Deprecated files were moved to a file called "deprecated_v1.zip.

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For those how have built this, have you had problems with the fans from the motherboard. I have tried two separate boards and multiple fans and the cooling fans just won't work. Could someone post pics or something of wiring or maybe some advice?

A couple things....

  • The PSU is supplying 24v.
  • The Fans are 12V, wired in series (to split the 24v and divides it among both fan)
  • The PWM circuit is VERY delicate. If you wrongly wire 12V fans in parallel, you will kill the PWM circuit.
  • Not all fans are created equal. Cheap fans will not work properly.

The BOM has fans that are listed for each part. Don't cheap out on fans... yes, good ones are expensive...but they work and will limit your frustrations. I've found that cheaper fans will not properly split the voltage, causing one fan to run at 14v+ and the other only at 6v+, causing one fan to spin faster and the other to not spin at all... Also, cheaper fans don't seem to work well w/PWM... so you never have 0-100% spin control on the fan.

Hope that helps.

what limit switches are people using on these? I'm currently looking for some based in UK and don't really want to order from china

Any mechanical limit switch can work. The X/Y gantry have a longer metal arm on them, to allow the switch to be placed out of the way but have the gantry touch the switch arm for limiting.

Wire them for Normally Open if using the default fimware configuration.

Normally I wouldn't spam like this, but I thought some of the people following this Thing would appreciate this. I am selling a few leftover parts from building my printer on eBay. Specifically a set of the Aliexpress smooth rods and a z-axis linear stepper motor. If you are interested, PM on here for the URL.

firmware is the one used on the ultimaker 2 right?

11 hours ago - Modified 11 hours ago

Hi, I have no idea how to use this. Has anyone that used it before help me. I'm wondeering if i could do it this way https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_6i7aNibAA. Thanks

Do I really need a heatbed only for PLA prints?

If you do the painters tape/hairspray/etc hack, you can get away w/o heat... but only with PLA. And even then, it has it's caveats, as far as what you can reliably print w/success (e.g. prints w/ minimal contact on the surface).

After spending years 3D printing, I find there are certain things you don't skimp on... The hot-end is #1 and a heated bed w/a (borosilicate) glass surface is 2nd. While the motion hardware is important, the core function of this machine is to print... and those are the key components to printing.

The heat does help when printing w/PLA by slowing the shrinkage. Additionally, you get a beautiful glass finish on the bottom of your print, which after the bed cools, just pops off the bed. After years with kapton tape, painters tape, and hairspray... nothing beats a heated glass bed.

jasonatepaint, any chance of getting the top and bottom brackets to take a M6 bolt? holes are too small and i can't seem to adjust the file to take the bolt, internal thread of my extrusion will only take m6

The file is not parametric, so you would have to update each part w/6mm holes.... OR print with decent infill (50%) and additional shells and then drill the holes out.

Cheers pal, managed to make up a modified version to take bigger bolts, will post them up when I'm back in office,

Built the cabinet today, Jason, this was a pleasure to build, it's a fantastic piece of work and thank you for sharing it!

After I have this one running I'll most likely use the files to make a larger version with a 18"x18" build space! And strip my old machine for parts! Lol

Nice! Thanks :-) And I know what ya mean about stripping down an old machine to build a bigger/better one. My UM2 clones both have parts from my older printers. :-)

Cool man :),

I've got a vertex at the minute, it's a horrid machine, knocks a lot, hotends rubbish etc, so going to butcher the board and electronics, buy a 18"x18" bed and basically build up a cabinet with these parts to house it! New rods/belts etc it'll be a hybrid monster lol!

I have two of these being built atm, as a friend who prints hasn't a large enough build space on his current machine to print the z axis parts and tray etc (using a fabrikator)

I believe he's going to install a diamond triple hotend! I shall make sure he posts up on what he did and how so the community know! Right I'll try and get those parts posted up now!

I need your help please , I have ordered
And then changed to the order to this extrusion profile:
Iam really confused , which Extrusion to go for ?

Well it's a difference of 1mm in the gap of the slot. The 5mm version has a bit more material, however, I doubt this will make any difference on these short lengths.

I'd go for the 5mm.. the t-nuts will be smaller (they're heavier than the aluminum extrusions). Additionally, if you can, go for the 5mm t-nuts with 3mm threaded holes. This way you can use 3mm screws instead of 5mm. They're lighter, cheaper, and are just as strong in this application.

Where are the limit switches mounted, Thanks

All of your questions can be answered with a little bit more reading. :-) It's all in the instructions.

May 10, 2016 - Modified May 10, 2016
IAtkinI_GTE - in reply to jasonatepaint

any preference on limit switches? i have a choice of quite a few and can't decide which ones will be the best for it,

also the motor pulleys are they defy 20tooth 5mm bore? as the UM2 packs come with 16tooth 5mm bores

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It's exactly the same as the Ultimaker 2.

Hello jasonatepaint, I am using E3D V6 now for replacing the original hotend. I connect the heatsink fan to 19-24V connector on the main board and the fan is always on. I wonder if there is any way you know that I can control this fan like before (only turn on when the nozzle is hot). Thanks.

May 1, 2016 - Modified May 1, 2016
jasonatepaint - in reply to wenyi189

Yes you can... but with a caveat. If you're not planning on using 2 hotend/extruders, you can use the second hotend 24v output (Heater 1), which uses PWM too.

Edit the firmware file: pins.h. Line 1187, change from

#define HEATER_1_PIN 3


#define HEATER_1_PIN -1

Next, go into Configuration_adv.h. Line 80, change from

#define EXTRUDER_0_AUTO_FAN_PIN   -1



Also in Configuration_adv.h, you can change the following

#define EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_SPEED   255  // == full speed

Save and upload to the board. Your hotend fan will work w/PWM off the 2nd hotend output and will turn on/off at what ever temperature you set for EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_TEMPERATURE

Thats a good idea. Thanks alot man. I think I could also just buy another 5V fan to replace it. As long as it can cool down fast enough.

My rods are bended. Is it possible to use stainles steel rods ? Or do they have to much resistance ?

Quite a few people have posted about their linear rod woes. It seems to come down to quality control issues from the manufacturer... and the resellers are just buying in bulk and reselling w/o any verification. Sadly though, this is a "you get what you pay for" scenario. There's a reason why the aliexpress ones are a few dollars each as opposed to $10-20 each if you buy from a quality manufacturer.

Another option is to buy quality rods in longer length and cut them yourself. For my 2 builds, I had quality 8mm rods from a delta printer breakdown. So I used a 3D printed jig to cut 6 and 8mm rods with a Dremel Max. This has been very successful route for me. The seller VXB.com is a good US seller. I use their 13" (330mm) 12mm rods. I have also been successful with buying longer length of 6mm on eBay (from a US seller) and cutting to size. I have purchased twice from the same reseller w/great results. I'll have to go thru some old emails to find the name/link, so let me if you want it.

I'd stick with the hardened and chromed rods. After hundreds, or even thousands of hours printing, and possibly millions of separate movements I would be worried about anything else holding up. I actually had to get two rods replaced because they were bent and the aliexpress seller was quick to send me new ones. Since they aren't too expensive, and really are the heart of the machine, I ended up ordering three complete sets and and using the straightest of the bunch. Now I have spares. Not that I recommend doing that for everything, it's just what I did.

I will try it with stainless steel rods from my work. The alibaba rods are so worse

I had to replace one of the 6mm rod from Aliexpress becuase it was stuck in LM6UU bearing. I paid another $30 to get just one rod from Misumi. One of the 8mm rod is bent as well but it works okay so I left it along.

I have a question.
My rods are moving left and right when motors are moving.
they are falling out of the bearings.
How can i fix this?
and i have another question.
My rods are going up and down while moving, but the rods are straight.
I think my pullys are not straight.
How can i fix this?


The bearings should have the 8mm spacers (varied lengths, depending on axis). Pushed against those spacers are the outer bearing and the pulleys. The pulleys should be tightened against the spacers/bearing, locking the rods in place. This must be down on all 8 corners (X + Y).

Rods going up and down? On the Z-axis? This can happen if you've widened the holes that the 12mm rods fit into on the top/bottom. I had this problem on one of my builds after making the diameter too big. Gorilla glue (clear) is great stuff. It foams and expands as it cures. It's also completely removable if you need to break down the machine. A few drops in the holes of the Z top/bottom gantry parts will keep them from sliding/moving.

No the rod for left and right. While moving its going up and down

I think one of my rod is doing the same, but it does not seem to affect the print.

It you sure ? The heater is then absolutely not exactly making you Gets Poor print quality ?

The heater? I meant one of my rods is moving up and down slightly.

Yes but the heater is connected with it, with the 6mm rod my heater is also moving up and down

Oh, yes, if it is that bad. Mine seems to be okay. If your's is bent that much then I suggest you to get a new one.

Shoot some video and stick it up on Youtube or somewhere, so I can help diagnose. Hard to really know w/o seeing it in action.

Apr 24, 2016 - Modified Apr 25, 2016

in regards to the extrusion the 2020 profile i can find has a 5mm slot not a 6mm will this cause problems or does it have to be 6mm?

I'm having a nightmare sourcing out this stuff for a reasonable prince with a cut in UK

also with the gantries, I'm presuming the 339mm v2 top and bottom Z are if your Z rods are longer? current me if I'm wrong before i print the wrong ones?

The slot should not make a difference at all. The "connector" parts have a slot in them to fit in extrusion slot. However, a 1mm difference should not cause any headaches.

As far as the 330 vs 339mm... comes down to which 12mm rods you get. When I built my machines, I had a lot of 8mm (x/y gantry) linear rods, so I opted to not buy any of the "UM2 rod kits" and instead bought the 12mm rods from a US distributor as 13 inch long (330mm). The 339mm version was added later to support people buying the official UM2 length. The overall Z-length print area doesn't change with either option.

nice one pal :) great response all things answered, been printing parts all week, time to start ordering :D

had a good nose through all the files already this is a amazing 1:1 clone its going to save me some pennies and give a great project!

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Hello finely got a board from robotdigg i hooked the 2-12 volt fans up to fan pwm next to led on ultimaker2 board the fan stays on full speed i cant control the speed i tryed in software simplified3d and in the LED does that mean its a bad board ?
i planned on using the e3d v6 bowden setup i need just 1 fan to run when i turn machine on to cool the hotend the 5 volt fan is to small i believe?
also has anyone tryed the bulldog lite as a bowden setup on ultimaker 2?

A couple things.... The output PSU is 24v. The 2x12v fans needs to be wired in series, so that the 24v power is split between the 2 fans.

If you wired them in parallel and hooked them up to the board and turned it on, you killed the PWM circuit for that output port. IF you also tried the same setup on the LED output port, you also killed that PWM circuit. Bad news is that there is no way to fix this. Once they're "dead", They will only output a fixed voltage and can no longer be controlled via software/controller. :(

If that happened, don't feel TOO bad. I've done it myself. I resolved the issue on one printer by changing the firmware to use the secondary hotend output to run my fans.

There is a 5v output port in the center of the board. The important part here is that you get a fan that pushes a ton of air. The BOM mentions a CFM airflow... make sure the fan you buy is at least as many CFM. Cheap fans here are NOT an option.

Hope that helps!

that was a typo i ment 2- 24 volt fans,I bought the 24 volt e3d,v6 i was thinking about that 2 -12volts but thought it was a bad risk glad i didnt use 12 volt fans I had alot of bad experience doing this printer. you did a great job with everything. 1 was buying the 1st motherboard from china as i posted earlier i bought from global wholesale thru,aliexpress the motherboard just sparked and bent capacitors they sent the board in a vanilla envelope with little bubble wrap,this one is from robotdigg next time ill go directly to ultimaker and pay alot more then hopefully no more headaches so if my pwm circuit is bad is it hard to edit firmware to use the 2nd hotend
Thanks for the help i need to start reading my questions after i type before pressing enter
Thank you

Is it possible to use the UM2 power brick instead

2x24v is not correct either. The spec calls for 2x12v fans, run in series (not parallel). It is possible that running 2x24v fans in parallel, you drew twice as many amps then was expected and it blew out the PWM. Buying the board direct from UM won't protect against bad wiring unfortunately. The PWM circuit is sensitive to over amps being pulled through it. The UM forums have plenty of discussions about this.

I've purchased a board from Global Wholesale and didn't have issues, however I believe my board was shipped in a thin box that was then put inside a vanilla envelope. The "U-Maker" store on Aliexpress has been good to deal with. I had a faulty controller and had a new one shipped by them after determining it was bad. Granted, it requires a bit of patience and time for shipping back to them. :-)

Hello sorry to bug you again i tryed searching ultimaker forums and found nothing do you have any bookmarks for bad pwm circuits or the one you went to

Apr 20, 2016 - Modified Apr 20, 2016

This is awesome. I'm going to eventually build this.

Apr 17, 2016 - Modified Apr 17, 2016

Could you also tell what you use to secure the bowden tube at the printhead side? It is not the standard UM2 bowden tube fitting with horseshoe clamp?

Check out the BOM under UM2 Print Head. They're called Bowden Couplings.

Hello Jasonatepaint.

I let you this link for you can updated the boom list for they than want to buy the power plug conector to the ultimaker board on aliexpress. I hope someone help this. The bad thing is that you will have to buy 10 units.


Thanks. As soon as I have some free time, I'll update.

How noisy is this setup? Does anyone have any videos of it on setup and first layer?

Just getting ready to build one in UK :)

It's very quiet. One of the quietest printers I've ever seen. I wouldn't be able to sleep with it in the same room, but it's not going to wake up the whole house when it's running in another room.

Thanks for the reply bud

Going to be building one of these to take 1.75mm filament not sure on what I'll need to do this hotend wise,

Maybe the e3d mod and a different extruder?

I suggest just skipping the UM2 hotend parts and go straight to the E3D v6. That's what I did and I do not regret it!


Ultimaker 2 Aluminum Extrusion 3D printer

@ jasonatepaint Hello, sorry for spell correction.
Is it also possible to download standard cura firmware to controller?
And just edit the E-Steps? i want to use the 2.85mm Filament.
I'm just building it ATM, Very nice product you made.
Greetings from holland

I have not found a way to do this. The problem is that each compiled binary has a hash value that is compared w/the one that is on the board. Since the firmware uploaded on it is NOT a valid hash, it won't attempt to overwrite it.

Uploading the firmware isn't hard and allows you to tweak all sorts of things. Check out my instructions that tell you what you have to do to compile and upload. It's relatively painless. :-)

And greeting back from Austin, TX. Been to Amsterdam a few times... just beautiful, one of my favorite cities! :-D

Okay, Thank you for response,
What do i need to change in your firmware to use 2.85mm filament?
Or could it be changed software matic?


The firmware isn't mine.... just the stock UM2 firmware.

If you are using Cura to slice, you can change the filament diameter within the UM2 controller by selecting a Filament type (e.g. PLA, ABS) and changing it's diameter.

If you are using something else that overrides the internal settings (e.g. Simplify3D), then you set it within the slicer software.

@ Josanatepain Thank you for response. Where can i Find the configuring.h?

hahaha... that's the worst representation of my username, ever! :-)

It's part of the UM2 firmware. In my instructions, at the bottom, it talks about uploading the firmware and where to get it. The "configuration.h" file is in the Marlin folder of the firmware.

Can I buy an optoendstop and use it in the ultimaker 2 board, I want to use something with more precision than a simple switch?
How can I do? Someone have tried it?

Yes possible. Although I don't have specifics. It'll be a configuration change in the firmware (e.g. end-stop pull up resistor setting + NO/NC settings).

Honestly, unless you are doing something non-standard, the only axis that would cause issues is the Z-axis at start of the print. However, I get a very repeatable first layer on my printer. I only ever have to level/adjust the bed after I've disassembled the hotend. So I've had optical end stops on my list for a while, but it's always been a "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" sort of thing.

Is it possible to buy a full metal mk8. And using the um2 gear? The mk8 is using another gear. That will give Some trouble right?
Or i need to change Some thing is firmware? So yes. How?

Apr 11, 2016 - Modified Apr 11, 2016

All very possible. Just a matter of using the correct values in the firmware. I'm not certain if there would be alignment/feed issues with the UM2 knurled gear on an MK8 extruder setup. Probably easier to just keep the MK8 gear and update the firmware.

In Configuration.h, look for DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT. The last value in that array is for the extruder.

define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.0,80.0,200,800} //for MK7 gear

Could you adjust the E-steps into the EEPROM , M92 parameter, without touching the firmware?


Sure. Check out M500/501 for viewing/saving your changed settings.

However, if you want the latest firmware on your printer, you'll have to eventually update it. If you manually change settings, make sure to keep track of them so when you do need to update the firmware, you can get back to your current settings.

Apr 4, 2016 - Modified Apr 4, 2016

Does anyone how to get the Ultiboard to update its firmware, when I select update default... I get the following error message
Failed to install firmware:
This firmware is not compatible with this machine.
Trying to install UM2 or UMO + firmware on an UMO?

The board that I got is from the BOM website.

This error is expected if you're trying to flash the firmware from Cura (as a binary .hex) file.

The best way to upload the firmware is to follow my instructions. You will need to Arduino IDE to compile and upload to your board.

I just used the install default firmware function in Cura and it gives me that error, I didn't select custom firmware. Does the firmware on Github the latest?

I am not sure about the updating. I just downloaded the latest Marlin firmware from Ultimaker official Github and flashed it.

Dont buy the motherboard from a store called global wholesale from aliexpress they send the motherboard in a vanella envelope no bubble wrap the capacitors all were bent they wont refund money nor send a new one total scam I just want to warn other people so they dont get burned

Mar 20, 2016 - Modified Mar 20, 2016

What are the correct files for the feeder? I want to use 3mm filament. Looking in the feeder folder, there seems to be a lot of STL files.

From the instructions:

I am running both the official and aluminum extrusion Ultimaker's with 1.75mm filament. Ultimately it'll be up to you to decide what filament gauge you want to use. Often it comes down to what filament you already have in bulk. :-) For that reason, I haven't included the parts to complete the hotend/extruder in the BOM. If you choose to go with the default 3mm setup, you can acquire the parts thru one the the sellers in the BOM. If you choose to use 1.75, I have included some additional parts to print and more info in the build instructions. In either case, the knurled drive gear in the BOM will work for both filament sizes.

True enough, thanks :)

I was confused about it for awhile. If you wanna use 3mm, use the link in the manual which points you to https://www.youmagine.com/. The file there is for 3mm. You only need to print the 2 files provided on Thingiverse that labeled 1.75mm for the modification. Or, there is a better solution to use a full metal kit for the feeder part. Link here: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Improved-Version-Printer-Parts-Reprap-Makerbot-MK8-Full-Metal-Aluminum-Alloy-Bowden-Extruder-Kit-No-Motor/32542731423.html

Thanks for the replies. The metal kit says 1.75mm, will this work for the 3mm? Thanks

Yes, but for 3mm you have to buy one of these connectors.
Get the one called PC6-M6.
I had to get one because my hotend could only take the 3mm bowden tube.
But it works just fine for 1.75mm.

Hi there :)- just a little question. What is the build envelope? Thanks :D-

It's a 1:1 clone of the UM2. The print dimensions are the same as the UM2.

My mainboard faceplate somehow does not fit. It seems like the solder points on the back side of the main board is pushing against the part and lift it up. Any ideas guys?

NVM, I think I will just cut the extra solder off.

Just noticed something weird about X motor mount, is that top left hole supposed to be half blocked?


After all the back-and-forth, I figured I better fix that damn part before this turns into a slap fight. :-D

You are correct that the part had a design flaw (the blocked hole). It was missed throughout the process since the slicer fixed the problem. As far as the tight fit for mounting the motor, it's a matter of keeping things loose until everything is in place. The socket head of the screw sits in the extrusion gap w/o issue. Just a matter of alignment. But since it's been a common complaint, what's a 3mm shift among friends. :-)

I uploaded a new version (v2) of the X-axis mount now that's offset by 3mm that should clear the extrusion completely. The reason it's so tight is that when designing I didn't want to move ANY default UM2 hardware so that it would be as exact as possible.

Thanks, printing it up right now

Your mesh viewer is a bit strange, the hole is not actually blocked when you print the object.

It's not just Rhino, the blockage is there, it's not just a rogue poly either, it's about 5mm thick.



I also had a problem with the x axis mount.
Along with your problem the holes are not correctly aligned so they don't fit anyway.
You should make this one instead. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1363713

UM2 Alternate X Axis Motor Support
by jffry7
Mar 19, 2016 - Modified Mar 19, 2016
jasonatepaint - in reply to DerpyEyed

I uploaded a new version, but still flipped the other way than your part. I have it flipped because the portion that needs support is hidden against the extrusion, so there's no droop from bridging and looks cleaner.

Edit: Just realized this isn't your part. Oops. :-)

Does the new version fix the alignment issue that DerpyEyed mentioned?

That's the one that the person gave me when I was having problems. And when I made both of them (because the first one failed) there was nothing inside the hole.

That's got the same blocked hole..

You need to change your settings somewhere, the hole is actually not blocked and something is causing it to appear that way.

I am using slic3r and my printed part has it blocked. I didn't really think about it at first but I noticed it.

It's even visible in the thingiverse viewer.. http://i.imgur.com/B7IPuv0.png

I'm having a bit of trouble. I installed the firmware, and it runs the first time setup. Once it finishes leveling the build plate it moves the plate all the way to the bottom, but the problem is that it stops a little before it hits the switch and says that the switch is broken. The switch is not broken because it works fine when it starts, but when it goes back down after leveling it just stops before it hits it and tells me that the z stop is broken. What can I do to fix this?

I figured it out. I had to go into the configuration and increase Z_MAX_POS.
I'm actually surprised I figured that out because I don't know how to code for arduino.

I thought we don't have to touch any firmware setting. Thanks for sharing. I checked the configuration.h and it says all three axis are 230. I am guessing if it is able to hit the limit switch then it does not matter?

I'm just saying if the plate stops before it even gets to the switch, then increase the z max pos. Don't set it too high or the plate will go up into the nozzle when leveling and might break some things. A value of 270 worked for me.

Cool. Thx. My parts should arrive in a week or two and I will start building as soon as I get them.

It takes a while, so set aside a couple days. Also, there might be some parts you need that are not listed on the bom. So be on the lookout for that.

What parts are you referring to?

I just mean don't be surprised if you find you need something, and it wasn't listed on the bom.

Oh yeah, I can imagine that. Have you ran into anything that you needed but wasn't on the list?

Let me look at it and try to remember.
If you are planning on printing the fan shroud for the hotend, you need 8x M3x14mm screws to hold the fans on.
If you print the fan shroud yourself, then search amazon for "high temperature tape" to put around the area where the hotend goes.
Also, I think this design assumed that the limit switches have threads in them, but the limit switches I got were not threaded, so for the Y axis I had to design my own custom bracket to hold that in the correct place.
And if you are going to print the extruder bracket that goes on the extruder motor, you will need the screws and spring for that. I just bought an aluminum one because it came with all the parts.

Make sure when you buy the hotend you get the correct size for your filament, since my hotend was made for the 3mm bowden tube and the extruder bracket only came with a collet for the 1.75mm tube, I had to search and buy a collet that fits in the same screw hole but takes the 3mm tube.

Here are some tips that I realized when building this:
On the ultimaker 2, it comes with a braided sleeve that already has all of the cables inside, but since you have to make that yourself you need to buy 2 of the special connector to plug into the board (I don't know what they are called).
I would suggest using some Category 5 cable (the cable you use to plug your computer into the internet router) to connect everything on the hotend to the board, since cat 5 has 8 small cables inside you can just solder those and it will be organized.
You are also going to need a crimping tool to create the connectors. You should be able to pick up one of those for around $40

At the moment I can't think of any other tips.

I think the heating cartridge takes at least few amps of current. In this case I am pretty sure you don't want to use a single cat 5 wire for the heating cartridge. It might work, but even though I doubt it will heat up fast enough.

Thanks for the reply. I got the limit switches from fbrc8.com but I can't really tell from the picture whether they have the threads. I have picked the right size hotend(1.75mm) and I have printed both version extruder bracket(3mm/1.75mm). Thanks for mentioning the spring because I was wondering about it. I have purchased all screws mentioned in the build manual as well.

For the 2 special connector, I'm not sure if you are talking about the white male connectors that are supposed to be plunged into the main board? I believe these are mentioned in the BOM as "other parts", as well as the braided sleeve. It is a interesting idea to use the cat 5 cable, but my question is whether or not the wire in cat 5 cable can tolerate the amount of current passing through the wire of heating cartridge. Well, I have not done any research on that but it came up immediately in my head.

The heating cartridge and PT100 have their own cable that is plenty long enough to reach the board, so you don't need to connect those to the cat 5 cable.

I got my limit switches from the same place. They do not have threads.
One thing I forgot to mention is you need M2.5 nuts for the M2.5 screws. I never saw those in the bom so I had to get those too, I would highly recommend getting the thin version of the nuts.

Since the limit switches do not have threads, you will need to cut the two cylinder shaped parts off where the y axis endstop goes, to make it short enough that you can put nuts to hold them in place.
Either that or you can print the custom bracket that I made to hold the switch. (Also requires you to cut off the cylinders)
If you find your own solution then you may not need a custom bracket, but it works great for me.

Custom Y endstop bracket

Okay, I got it. Will this nut do the job?


I haven't start the assembly yet so I'm not sure what cylinder thing you are talking about but thanks for sharing the file.

I would actually get the nuts/any extra screws you need from http://www.mcmaster.com/
They are high quality and are very cheap, and they deliver quickly too.
That's where I got all my nuts/screws, they are a great provider.

So much frustration going on right now trying to build this printer. The rods I received are no good. one of the X/Y print head rod is too big to fit any of 4 LM6UU bearing I have. I have to re-order one from Misumi and it cost $30. There is another X axis rod that is slightly bent and I think it wouldn't matter that much. I had to reprint some of the spacers so they can fit onto the rods. I should expect a long debugging period after I actually put everything together.

Got it. My print head arrived today. I bought a pre-assembled head because I wasn't sure about making it myself at the time. It looks terrible especially the fan mount part. I am printing a custom fan mount right now and thinking about the solution for the cables. The cables for three fans are really short.

Mar 6, 2016 - Modified Mar 7, 2016

I have a problem, it's looks like belts are too short in X direction. I'm pretty sure I've placed gantrys correctly.
Here is a photos


All belts are same length, looks like there in the X should be a little longer.

@edit The front side is on the longer or the shorter one?

It's hard to tell from those images (they're pretty small), but my first question is, are you sure you ordered the correct 610mm belts? They are all the same size. The reason you think one should be longer than the other is the size of the frame and the offset for the Z-axis.

The belts need to be put on in a particular order as they will be a tight fit. The official Ultimaker assembly guide shows the way they need to be assembled. Keep in mind that the black slider blocks that the belts fit through, have a big of give due to the spring inside the block. This will help w/tensioning.

Thanks for reply. Everything is ok. I thought that X axis should be this longer one than Y. However, it is the opposite :)

Hello. I am very excited about this design and want to build it. I have ordered pretty much all parts and I am confused about the screws. Are screws listed in the build manual covering all needed ones or should I also follow the UM2 source file for screws and nuts? They don't seem matching each other. Thanks.

In theory, yes, I have listed all the screws you will need. It's possible I missed one or two... but I have not heard back from anyone complaining yet. ;-)

Hello, I'm searching the correct stepper motor to put in the printer. Which are the important specifications for the prupose of it works well?
Thanks for helping

It's in the BOM under "Extruder"

For the extruder. If I have a different knurled drive that has a different diameter, would that affect anything or is there a way to change that in some settings.

Yeah, you'l need to change the following variable in configuration.h


You can get that info from the manufacturer of your knurled gear.

Mar 4, 2016 - Modified Mar 4, 2016
DerpyEyed - in reply to jasonatepaint

Where do I find configuration.h? I know it has to do something with the firmware, but I haven't gotten that far into this project yet.

EDIT: I actually found that the other intended knurled drive works just fine on the extruder I bought.

At the end of the instructions it talks about uploading the firmware and changes that have to be made. The firmware is available on Ultimaker's github. The link is in the instructions.

Yeah with a bit of looking around I found the code, and got the Arduino compiler so I could actually compile it.

Mar 1, 2016 - Modified Mar 2, 2016

My ultimaker is in progress. But I have some doubts about the electrical cabling. First what is the kind of socket to connect the 24v psu to the board and what is the good cabling ? I don't want to burn the board at the first try ^^. Does there is a instruction/document about the cabling ?that ll be great

In the BOM, under Heatbed (part-by-part), there is a 4-pin Kycon connector. That's the connector you need. It's completely possible to do. And to make it easier, here's an image of the pins and their required polarity. http://i.imgur.com/AkZkut0.jpg

Are there simply two pins for each pole? I'm thinking about desoldering the Kycon connector and integrating a 24V power supply and just solder leads in the board. And of course make a bracket for the extrusion.

Yes. But the idea is that each pair is carrying it's own rail of current. I have not confirmed this, but my guess is that one rail is for the heatbed and one is for everything else. So when wiring one up, you will want to make sure you're providing enough amps (and use heavy gauge wire).

Thanks a lot Jason! I missed this information in the EBOM. I ll upload some pictures when the printer ll be finish.

Mar 1, 2016 - Modified Mar 1, 2016

Just to check i have the correct idea about the frame, you have these extrusions:

And put the frame together like this;

Using the printed parts and/or tapped holes in the extrusion ends?

Check out the instructions, the illustrations of all the parts are labeled.

You will Tap the top/bottom of the vertical extrusions to mount the top/bottom brackets.

Yeah it pretty much goes like that. Once you get the two halves done they fit together nicely.
The one that I am working on is about 90% done. Just waiting on some missing parts, after that I just have to make all the wires and I'm done.

Nice Job!!!!!
Building one now. You did an awesome job of setting up the build list and STL. prints.

You're Welcome :-)

Interesting project but where can I order the first print outs?

Find a friend with a 3D printer or pay someone to print them out for ya.

While I believe this build is pretty straight forward, if this is your first 3D printer build, a legitimate kit may be a better option. While I give you everything you need to build the printer, experience with electronics and general "maker" knowledge is needed.

Building 3D printers is a LOT easier after you've have some 3D printing experience. Plus, if anything goes wrong, you can re-print the parts. :-)

Does the hotend upgrade kit come with all the parts required for the Z axis? or do I need to get more parts? thanks!

If you're talking about the direct drive extruder: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1102900

Yes, I believe it's everything you need. But please let me know if you discover something I missed. I sometimes miss a screw or two... but I think I got it all. :-)

Ultimaker 2 PG35L Direct Drive Extruder for 1.75mm E3D v6 Hotend

My bad, I meant the heated bed kit... oops.... thanks for the response! I actually have the direct drive hotend printer and already have the hotend and the motor on me!

It comes with all the parts, including the power supply and stepper. with freebies such as a separate board but maybe use for other project. NOTE rods not included.

Do you mean the board that comes with the heated plate it not required?

For the Heater board Rev 0.1 PCB, if using UM2 Ultiboard board 2.x.x then not required but if using UMO board version 1.5.7 then you need it.

Looks like I got a 2.1.4 board so I guess I don't need it.
Hopefully I can figure out which cables plug into which port. (As of this message I haven't received the board yet)

Check this out for the heated bed assembly of the kit. https://ultimaker.com/en/manuals/249-assembly-manual

Once assembled you can bounce back to the official UM2 assembly manual for instructions on attaching the wires to the controller board.

I have already put the bed together. I'm just waiting for some missing parts to arrive in the mail, which is the only thing stopping me from finishing the assembly.

Feb 25, 2016 - Modified Feb 26, 2016

What part of the build platform hits the z-switch? Since the switch is mounted below the rods, I don't see how it will push the switch. Unless there is something I am supposed to attach to the HBP that is not mentioned in the instructions.

Also, I'm having trouble assembling everything that goes onto the x and y rods. Because that is also not mentioned in the instructions.

Okay, I just looked at my machine that has the new aluminum plate. I used the same Z-axis bracket that's uploaded and just used a couple small spacers to offset the change.

As far as mounting the Z-axis switch mount, take a look at my google docs instructions. On the diagrams look for part "G" to see how it's mounted. The switch will sit flush against the vertical portion of the part, with a spacer.

If I get some time, I will try to provide a resized part. But you can use washers or anything to offset enough that the screw touches the switch. Flip the screw so that you screw it in from below, using the head to hit the screw. Since you screw it in from below, the size of the screw doesn't matter too much. Once you've determined a safe offset (make sure you don't go so low you crush stuff). Then put a nut on the topside of the plate w/a little loc-tite to keep the screw from moving and tighten the screw against the nut.

Ultimaker changed the aluminum plate to make it compatible w/their entire UM2 lineup. So it slightly changed the way you mount the z-axis limit switch.

Find the M3 screw hole on the back right portion of the plate. This screw, when mounted, should hit the limit switch. The 3d printed mount for limit switch will need to be extended outward. I think I uploaded this part... but I will check after I post this and if it's not there, I will get it up there and let ya know.

I'm having trouble assembling everything that goes onto the x and y rods.

I'm not quite sure what's missing... My instructions point back to the official UM2 instructions for assembly of the X/Y gantry (belts, pulleys, etc). More details and I'll try to help

Feb 26, 2016 - Modified Feb 26, 2016
DerpyEyed - in reply to jasonatepaint

What size(length) screw goes into the hole you are talking about?
Let me know when you uploaded the extended piece.

Feb 23, 2016 - Modified Feb 23, 2016

There is a problem with the Motor Mount X-axis piece. The holes that connect it to the extrusion are too close to the side, and when you stick the screws through the holes they do not reach the center of the extrusion, and it can't be attached. If you sand away enough of the side to make it fit, the extrusion then blocks two of the screws for the motor from being able to go through.
EDIT: Pretty much the screws are too close to the edge and it doesn't fit on the extrusion. (I have the correct size)
Has anyone else had this problem? What is the fix?

I did have this issue I ended up adding about 1.75mm of material between the extrusion holes and the motor mount holes. But considering no one complained about it I thought it is how much my material shrank as I did modify some parts as well not to mention about 1.5mm spacer on all axis. Either that or I completely screwed the extrusion measurements (misumi)

In my case, my material doesn't stretch, like, at all. So this makes it impossible for me to attach that piece. I'm not a designer, so I can't fix the model myself (I tried fixing it). I also tried using a drill to make the hole bigger, but that actually ruined the piece, so I have to make another one. Because of this, I'm now at a brick wall for this project and I can't continue unless it is fixed. I have tried every way I can think of to fix it myself, and all of them failed.

Sorry to hear of your issues. ABS shrinks a bit more than PLA, so if you printed in ABS, that could have contributed to it possibly.

My solution to working with the tightness in installing this mount, is to pre-install the 2 motor screws near the extrusion before I attach the mount to the vertical extrusion.

Good luck w/the rest of the build.

I print in PLA. And I actually fixed the issue by using the fixed version provided by jffry7. You might consider using his part in your project; it fits the design perfectly with no issues.

UM2 Alternate X Axis Motor Support
by jffry7

When I load up the BoM.. it's blank? Why? I'd love to try making this.. the only reason I don't like ultimakers is this proprietary case that leaves you in a bind if something fails. But this aluminum rails version is easier to get into... and honestly better looking! Please tell me the parts can still be obtained?

You're the second person to mention this. I think it's because a default "form" page that google added.

Look for the tabs "BOM" and "vitamins". That's where all the good stuff is.

i just tryed to purchase 2 parts from aliexpress they took money out of my account then canceled my order with no refund so dont buy from aliexpress Just a warning

I've bought all sorts of stuff from Allexpress w/o issue. Even refunds/replacements. Aliexpress isn't 1 seller... it's like eBay's Buy-it-now.... If you had a problem w/one seller... report them to Aliexpress.

On a side note... if you see something on there and it's priced WELL below every other seller.... it's probably a scam.

Ali is sorta like EBAY, seller are a hit an miss but be aware 90% of seller share same shipping forwarder. There are times when you buy multiple item(at he same time) that 2-3 different seller gives you same tracking info. Immediately contact them, some seller will help you out even resend the item but better catch it fast cause some seller dont care, i marked those sellers.

For those interested in adapting Robert's cable chain, I modified to fit our Aluminum Extrusion version.


Note: It only have 1mm clearance to the aluminum extrusion and about 2-3mm clearance to the bed. For those with acrylic base cover, reduce the number of segments as it might push down a bit on the acrylic when homing Z.

Cable Chain for UM2 Aluminum Extrusion
by jffry7

Anyone know how much this printer weighs assembled?

I'll have to put one of mine on a scale to get an idea... but I could safely say it weighs no more than a standard UM2.... and possibly lighter... the aluminum extrusions are very light compared to the stock acrylic walls.

Hi, I have been try to get past the setup screen, however whenever I plug motor or end stops in the screen is blank. I can press the button and it beeps but not screen. When I unplug the motors and end stops I can get the welcome screen back. At one point I was ale to get both teh z stage and x axis to move across to the end stops, both were triggered correctly and it moved back to the middle. I have replaced the display board, ribbon cables and screen. Does anyone have any ideas on what it could be or what I could try next?


ok... Break through! So even without the screen (just pressing the button and listening for beeps) it starts the configuration process and everything seems to be moving correctly, hitting the end stops on X,Y,Z,and travels around the bed correctly. So I'm just back to working out why the screen only displays correctly for the first 3 setup screens, then becomes unreadable with small green rectangles everywhere like snow, before finally becoming unreadable gibberish. The only thing I can do now is replace the main board. If anyone can shed some light on this I would be very grateful!

Sounds like it could be a bad ulticontroller board. Not the main board, but the OLED's board. I got a bad one from China and worked w/them to get it shipped back/replaced. I printed via USB direct to the printer until I got the new board.

I would remove the ulticontroller and try to just operate the printer via USB (w/Repetier or S3D) and make sure everything works, with the exception of the display/controller. If all that works.... it's the ulticontroller.

Hi Jasonatepaint, Thankyou for the advise. I downloaded Repetier Host and it printed a dry run well. The bed heated to 60 deg the print head to 200 deg and all fans etc are working. After about 30 mins the OLED came on for a while, then disappear. This is the second screen and display controller board I have purchased. Both from Robotdigg. If I put an SD card in the screen goes blank, not sure if that normal. I will buy another display controller and see if its any better... But I'm starting to think it might be something else.


This comment has been deleted.

I just started to build mine. Do someone know how to stop the translation of the rods inside de bearings? I tried to push the pulleys again the bearing, but it's not good

Feb 11, 2016 - Modified Feb 11, 2016
jffry7 - in reply to Jetjetonik

I printed a cylinder sorta like a stopper that covers the bearing holders. But actually you wont need this when you tighten the pulleys as the rods should stay in place. I left them there cause it doesnt bother me anyway. Hope it helps unless I misunderstood your question

You were right. When the belts are tense, all the rods don't move anymore.

Feb 7, 2016 - Modified Feb 7, 2016

For the Gantry Z-Axis Top/Bottom I can't tell whether I am supposed to print the normal or the 339mm version? Can someone help with this? Also I can't tell which file is for the z-axis limit switch bracket.

339mm if you are using stock UM2 rods.

Z-Axis_End_Stop.stl is the limit switch bracket you are looking for.

How can I tell if the rods I have are stock UM2?

Where did you order them from?

I believe it was aliexpress.

Then it sound be 339 then.
The other version was used for the original designer because he had some leftover reprap rods from another project that were a different length than the ultimaker ones.

Does anyone have a cheaper power supply? I dont want to buy a 90 dollar power supply...

You can use any 24v PSU... as long as it puts out enough amps (10+). If you're using the UM2 controller, you'll need to buy the connector/pins (in the BOM) -- Also look thru the comments so you can get the wiring correct.

does anyone have any experiance with geeetech's knockoff ultimaker electronics board

they're alright

With a friend, we build 2 of this printer. We bought all of the mecanical parts, but not the electronic.
Do someone try to use an arduino+ ramp 1.4 instead of the ultimaker board ? I see two advantages, it's cheapest (+-30$ arduino, ramp, display and pololu) and if one pololu burn or fail, you can change it and not all the board. However, you should probably use the ultimaker 1 firmware. If someone tried, I am interested to have his feedback.

yes there is a version with ramps. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1178406

Ultimaker 2 Clone + Ramps 1.4 = Cheap and Cheerful!

Thanks for this quick answer! I

could you send me one?

Hey I'm going through the build manual and I'm not sure what the 2.5mm screws are for. It isn't mentioned anywhere except for the parts list

The limit switches.

Hmm what about the 16x M3x12 flat heads?

The top brackets

OK thanks.

Btw there are typos in the manual then, it says to use 10mm screws (Join the Y-axis extrusion with the Z-axis extrusion and X-axis extrusion using 2x Sides Top Brackets (C) with 4x M3x10 flat head screws)

Hi Guys,
I'm hoping that someone that has built this can lend some advice from their experience:

I'm looking to understand the print times associated with all the printable parts required for this build.

I'll be using a public printer at my local library (I don't have a printer and need to get the first set of parts) and as such, print times will most likely be constrained to time blocks. (ie. 4 hr blocks) This will give me a better idea as to how long it will take to get everything sorted. I'm not too pressed for time as I am still ordering (and awaiting delivery) for parts (China / US -> Vancouver)

I'm really excited about this build, looks like I'll be back for help along the way!

PS-> looking at doing the extended version

Sort of depends on the print speeds/material used(cooling)/and layer height... but assuming PLA @40-50mm/s with .2mm layer height, most parts can be printed in under 4 hour blocks. Many of the bracket parts are duplicates, so you can do smaller jobs if needed.

If you know the printer and slicer you're using, you can build plates of parts now to get an idea of how long each will take.

Jan 29, 2016 - Modified Jan 29, 2016
Fireflynj - in reply to Printlyfe

That would be difficult to figure out. Might help if you can find out what software the library is using and get a copy of the config files. So you can setup on your own computer and play with it and can get an estimate of print times. It all depends on printers configuration and what you put in for slice resolution, # perimeters, and etc... A lot of time can be lost just experimenting with it.
also look at https://www.3dhubs.com/, an option is it have someone else to print it.

Thanks for the reply.
I'm going to find out some more info from library and see what I can't come up with, alternatively, will take your advise and set everything up and get proper build times etc at home before I go in.

Hello, anyone knows how to change the printing size on the ultigcode? PLEASE HELP!!!

I have no clue what you're asking.

Can I use a regular stepper with a coupling and leadscrew for the Z axis, or does it have to be all in one?

jffry7 pretty much spelled it out. You will want to make sure it's threading is Tr8*8. The old UMO Leadscrew used a different thread pattern that would require firmware changes and is also lower resolution.

If not mistaken measurements are for the non-coupling leadscrew as bed sits close to the stepper but you can either raise the z end points or lower the z motor mount (but may need to raise the whole platform). On the other hand there are cheaper ways to buy non-coupled ones unless you are re-using the existing stepper.

Lets wait for jasonatepaint I could be wrong

What is the print bed size?

Same as the UM2.

Hi, I would like to use RUMBA or MKS GEN as motherboard because my budget is pretty low. Does anyone knows where I can find the firmware or a guide for the Marlin customization?

Thanks in advanced.

Yeah, anything using the Mega2650 will work. Just a matter of configuring Marlin to work with the way you have things wired up. (Configuration.h, Configuration_adv.h, and possibly pins.h). In Configuration.h, choose your board and most of the work will already be done as long as you use the ports as labeled on the board. Otherwise, you may need to alter pins.h to match pin to particular functionality (fans, motors, heaters, etc).

As far as a guide, I would google "[your board type] and marlin firmware" and you're bound to find many guides for Marlin. If you're using the UM2 OLED controller you'll have to do some homework to figure out pins. But each pin has an official name that you can match on both controller and board... just a matter of finding documentation that has the pin-out.

Does anyone know if this will print at 60 microns or below like they claim the original um2 can?

Yes, you can. Just takes forever to print anything when the layer height is 0.06mm. I printed a sample Yoda model and I had to let it print over night.

Good to know my Robo3d is pretty slow to print anything so i don't mind waiting do you have any experience with PET filament i tend to use PET over ABS and or PLA

true, and pet also needs to be slightly slower to make sure it fully melts, going to be odd going to a teflon insulated hotend after using my e3dv6

Would it be possible to get the cad/solidworks/iges or whatever format file you designed these in? At lease for the parts that attach to the extrusion material? I want to build this but the extrusion I sourced i thing has a slight difference in shape and profile.

I would gladly post my remix on here as well with credit to your design.

Jan 1, 2016 - Modified Jan 1, 2016
jffry7 - in reply to JATMN

Its already on the "Thing Details" under summary "A360 Source Download Link"

JATMN - in reply to jffry7

Wow.. how did I miss that.. stupid

jffry7 - in reply to JATMN

You're not the first...Me I missed it too the first time :D

Hello Jasonatepaint.

A questions.

I have a power suply of 19 volt and 6.32 amp. Do you thing I could use it for my build. Now I have a 24v power suply but I am having trouble whith it.

I am a little afraid that if I connect a 19v power supply my electronic card could be burst or break. Remember all devices (fans, led etc) was made built for 24v.

If you are using the UM2 24v heated bed, then you will definitely need to use a 24v PSU. A 24v hotend heater would work at 19v, just would heat slowly. The bed, however, would never reach temps needed for ABS (90-100c).

Using a 19v PSU won't break anything... but the heater cores expect 24v. The original UM uses 19v, but upgrading an UM to the heated bed, requires a 24v PSU...

I have had some bad luck with my slider blocks. The rods constantly fall/slide out of them causing obvious problems. I've been able to somewhat fix it with zip ties. Is this normal? Or are my blocks just loose?

I had the same issue with my original slider blocks. I used zip ties for a while, but eventually got fed up enough to switch to these: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-xy-bushing-slider-block
I've had very little issue with these new blocks, and was much happier as compared to the injection-molded slider blocks I initially used.

Afterthought: Another issue I had with the injection-molded blocks is that they were actually too "short", causing the rod spacing of the 6mm cross rods to be too small, which isn't exactly a good thing. The new slider blocks fixed that too.

I'm glad you're happy with them !

Anyone know if ultimaker board 2 can run a ramp's lcd?

Sure. Just a matter of matching pin outs. They all use the same pins... You'll have to do the research to figure out your cables and the corresponding pins on the board.

Thank you very much!!!

Reading through the comments and noticing that some of the parts sourced are having issues such as the heat bed, my question is, is this only a problem with the builting of the heat plate or is it also a problem using the prebuilt kit aswell.

Second question is about, controls. Are all the control boards and display working well, any issues with the part numbers listed? Also will these part bumbers work with the extended model build size?

my question is, is this only a problem with the builting of the heat plate or is it also a problem using the prebuilt kit aswell.

The official "heatbed upgrade kit" works just fine. I have ordered and used 2 of them w/o any issue. The quality control is good on these kits... the individual parts sold online seem to suffer quality control.

Are all the control boards and display working well, any issues with the part numbers listed?

Yes, they work just fine. Again, if you receiive one that is not working correctly, contact your seller. Out of 3 that I bought, 1 of them was bad, but it was returned/replaced w/o issue.

Also will these part bumbers work with the extended model build size?

Yes... same firmware, with the exception of printer's dimensions.

Are they still selling the official heatbed upgrade kit? I heard they were going to stop selling them. If now where can one get one?

I have not investigated this in depth, but I know they are still for sale. I know the US seller MakerShed stopped carrying it. It seems to be one of those parts that are in and out of stock often.

If you are in the US, you can get one here: http://fbrc8.com/collections/ultimaker-original-spare-parts/products/umo-heated-bed-upgrade-kit

Thanks for the quick response! Excellent news. I really appreciate all your hard work on this "thing", you have done a great job. Ill be ordering parts tonight for the build!

That where I got my heated bed as well, fast processing and I am half way across the world. I hope they dont stop selling them.

Are the heated beds optional or mandatory


My back plate that came with the heatbed upgrade kit was touching the belts when the bed is raised so I have designed a new simple plate to replace it.

Ultimaker 2 Print Table Back Cover

This is just the heated silicon pad.... so you would need to use a high-temp silicone to adhere it to an aluminum plate. The official UM2 heatbed is a combination of the heatbed and an aluminum heat spreading plate.

It could definitely work... just return more work from you to assemble/fit the parts.

I am contemplating building this thing. Sort of just finished a Prusa I3 kit. What a nightmare. So I am wondering just how close to
the UM2 does this clone perform? What kind of printing speed and layer resolution are people who built this getting?

Unfortunately money is the big problem. I see I can get the original UM2 z axis motor and screw here http://fbrc8.com/products/z-motor-with-trapezoidal-lead-screw would this help achieve the same layer resolution?

Anybody printing the parts for sale?

I've been asked that question a lot... "What quality are you getting from your machine?"... and the simple answer is: It prints as well as my official UM2.... but that's because a lot of time went into making sure all the pieces/parts fit well and things are properly squared/level. The same machine, not built well and not properly calibrated will not print as cleanly.

As far as the z-axis motor/lead screw.... depending on the route that you go, you can get the z-axis motor + complete heatbed setup in the official "Ultimaker heatbed upgrade kit".... it definitely makes things easier in the build process.

Great build! Has anyone found a heat bed from aliexpress with correct resistance yet?

Hi Jason, I've got couple of questions, is it possible to convert my Makerfarm i3 to your UM2 clone and make it double the size? I have the RAMPS 1.4 board, would that work? I understand that making size bigger would need a bigger heatbed, different configuration of FW. Does anyone sell that big of a heatbed? And one last queston, what is this build style called?

Yeah, any Mega2560 board should work... just a matter of changing the firmware to fit your chosen board.

Search thru the comments and look for my answers on making a big Ultimaker. It's completely possible.... but would require you to redesign some parts. Your big problems will be weight of the heatbed... often really big beds are supported on 2 opposing sides to support the weight. Bigger isn't always better..

Build style? It's a Cartesian-style printer. Not sure if that's what you're asking.

I really like your design. Do you think that i could i build with your parts an Ultimaker 2 GO?

Yep. You'd just need to change your Z-axis aluminum extrusions. As far as what the new value is, you'll need to do some measuring/calculations based on the differences between the 2 printers.

Gantry_Z-Axis_Bottom_339mm_v2, what the difference between this and the standard? Looking at the dimensions in net fab, I can't see a difference. I don't want to print the wrong one. Thanks

Sorry for the delay. The _v2 versions of the files increased the tolerance on the linear rod holes from .1 to .2mm. It requires less sanding and fitting.

Ultimaker 2 print head and sliding block

Could you also post the inventor files from inventor 2013

Nov 20, 2015 - Modified Nov 20, 2015
karlzhao314 - in reply to anthony01

Download the Autodesk 360 files in Inventor format.

Nov 20, 2015 - Modified Nov 20, 2015

It's me again! Not sure if you remember me. I've started building my school's printer (which is this with some cost-saving modifications, along with a Chimera) and collecting parts for my own (which is this with a few changes to make it even more Ultimaker-like, as well as a 100mm extension on the Z axis to make it an extended). It's a joy to build and your instructions are very clear and easy to follow. For the frame I didn't even have to read the text; I just built it based off the excellent pictures.

Question time: are the XY motor mount spacers required? To me it seems like they just introduce another failure point in the system, and while I know the Ultimaker 2 had them, I believe they did only because their sheet frame was too deep where the motors were supposed to mount. It seems they could easily be removed now that we have 3D printed parts simply by extending the mount, or even just mounting it as-is and sliding the pulley further down the motor.

Anyways, the build has been great so far. I'm enjoying it a lot, and will post pictures of both printers when I'm done. Thanks again for the excellent design!

Question time: are the XY motor mount spacers required?

The spacers, as a separate part, isn't required. Where the motor sits does matter. The spacer puts the axel/pulley in alignment with the pulley on the linear rod. So you could extend the mounts to add the additional space there. The only reason I didn't do that was to save on plastic.

So before I commit to buying the Ali, do you think this will do the job? Some of the dimensions are different from the BOM Ali.


I don't want to waste money if it's wrong.

That'll work fine. The important part is that it's 20x20. Just be sure that the nuts you get are compatible with those extrusions.

Nov 13, 2015 - Modified Nov 13, 2015

Hi Jason,

I've bought heated bed upgrade kit from a local Italy store, 1 day of waiting time :) Anyway my plate doesn't have the hole to mount Z home position screw:


I think is not a complicate modification, I'll use wood cover to attach something that pushes down the Z home position switch...

Ultimaker changed the plate design. My guess is because they're using the same bed in all versions of the UM2.

What I did on my second build of the machine was to use the hole in this image: http://i.imgur.com/HAEVGY3.jpg

Since it's at the wrong point on the y-axis, you can use a screwhead on the bottom instead so that it touches the limit switch.

Just got an email that Makershed is discontinuing the Heated Bed Upgrade Kit.

This is an amazing project - thanks for sharing! I'm seriously considering building one, but I would want to build it right from the start to be direct drive with the E3D V6 hot end. To do this, should I just substitute the UM2 Printhead parts in the BOM with the parts on the direct drive extruder project?

Yes. You'll still need a small amount of teflon tubing, but you can skip all the UM2 printhead + extruder parts.

Just curious what others are finding when fitting the bearings and pulleys to the 8mm rods.

My bearings and pulleys are press-fit and don't slide on, neither do the pulleys. I can sand the inside diameter easily enough for the pulleys, but with the bearings having steel races its a little bit more work.

I bought my pulleys off RobotDigg and when I contacted them about the press-fit they said the rods are oversized. When I contacted the seller on Aliexpress they claim they haven't had any problems fitting the pulleys and bearings.

I do have one 8mm rod that the copper bushings gets very stuck on, I know for sure that rods tolerance is way off.

Nov 13, 2015 - Modified Nov 13, 2015
GaussianSphere - in reply to NitroTech

For what it's worth, I think RobotDigg is full of it. My rods are nice, USA made rods that are right at 8mm... The pulleys and bearings were at roughly 7.9-7.95. I sanded/filed the insides of the pulleys and bearings until everything fit right, but it was rather tedious.

Received replacement rods, pulleys and bearings, not from RobotDigg, but from an Aliexpress seller today. Everything fits the way it should, nice and smooth. I'm very happy the Aliexpress seller worked with me to resolve this issue. Can't say the same for RobotDigg. :(

I had provided caliper measurements of the pulleys and bearings they supplied, they measured 7.93mm and 7.94mm respectively. This was their response to those measurements, and the fact I said it was a problem.

I quote..."The pulley n bearing are for motor shaft or corresponding shaft which can be press fit. Over size will cause slip. Disregard the tolerance of the ruler, the pulley n bearing are the correct size." and "I am afraid the problem is the M8 rods is over size. And even though the pulley n bearing bore is 8mm and 8mm rod, it's press fit."

You're correct in saying they're full of it. I'm not sure how they measure something, but I guess 7.94mm is considered 8mm.

Yeah... I've been pleased with all the other stuff I ordered from there, but those pulleys and bearings were wonky.

Were the 5mm pulleys okay? Also was the double pulley under spec as well?

The 5mm pulleys are right on, and yes the double pulley is under spec.

Hey, sorry for the delay! I didn't actually order the 5mm pulleys from there, I had some from the printer I converted so I didn't need them. The double pulleys were machined correctly and fit great on all of my rods.

When I built mine, I had high quality 8mm linear rods that I cut to size myself. They were from an old delta printer build. I used the bearings from Robotdigg w/no issues. My guess is that the tolerances of the rods from China are just not accurate enough.

It's unfortunate because most of the trouble people have had has been around cheaper parts that don't pass quality/tolerances.

Nov 10, 2015 - Modified Nov 10, 2015

I have been trying to order the heated bed kit so I can finish, but it is sold out through fbrc8 and makershed. My other option is ultimaker directly, but they have a 3 week lead time. Has anyone found it for sale elsewhere within the US?

Nov 11, 2015 - Modified Nov 11, 2015
chkuentz - in reply to ZScott99

As of today (Nov 11) fbrc8 just got in new stock! :-)

(I had to sign up for notifications because of the same problem)

That's really unfortunate. :-( I would write Simon (at Fbrc8) and see if he can give you some insight as to when they will be back in stock. My guess is that if UM has a 3 week lead, that US resellers are going to be waiting at least that long too.

Ok thanks. Could anyone suggest where I can get the fan mount printed? I haven't got any ABS or kapton insulation or to print on. Would it be easier to buy the aluminium version?

Looking at the printed version it seems to have better performance than the ali version, is this correct?

Yeah, I've had better luck w/the ABS printed versions. You could always buy some ABS and print it on the new printer once it's all put together. You don't need kapton tape to print on... heat the bed to 100c and lay down some glue from a glue stick. You don't need a fan for ABS.

As far as kapton, I would get some... it's handy to have for all of your 3D printer building needs. :-)

My printer has a build area of 200x200, will I be able to print all the parts on that?

I positioned some parts in diagonal and they fit

LED mounts are slightly longer than 200 but they fit on my bed. The rest would be ok

This comment has been deleted.

Did you have any problems with any of the other parts fitting? I don't want to buy the wrong one and have issues with nuts and bolts not fitting.

No, no problems, just make sure to use the m3 t-nuts, and you'll be fine.

Thanks for the replys. Will any series 5 aluminium do the job for the frame? Looking online in the UK for some, the dimensions are slightly different than the Misumi aluminium. What I can buy in the UK has a different size hole in the middle and gap on the slot is 5mm rather than 6mm.


Nov 9, 2015 - Modified Nov 9, 2015
puddled - in reply to danlad1631

Have you tried ooznest, that's where I get mine from . I just used standard v slot

Nov 9, 2015 - Modified Nov 9, 2015

I want to make the printer with two heads / extruders, but I have only one motor with 0.9 degree step. Tell me, in the firmware setup steps vary only in the two extruders at once, ie you can not use two different motors or different gear extruders? I want to do first head for 1.75 to and the second for 3mm filament ...

P.S. In the original printer motors covers are closed. Does anyone have some model of covers to print them?

Nov 10, 2015 - Modified Nov 10, 2015
scalanova - in reply to alec220

You might need to print these on your Ultimaker after the build. They didn't fit on my MK2b bed :)

Custom engine covers (UM 2)
by mnis

I've had a look on the BOM and STL's but can't find the black cover with Ultimaker on it, it sits on build table.. Where can I find that?

Great build by the way.

The one that's used on my build comes with the official Ultimaker Heated Bed Upgrade Kit. It's made of wood. I stained mine black. You can get the DXF of the file from Ultimaker's github if you have access to a laser cutter.

User morfeushavana on here created a 3d printed version of the cover... He didn't post the source, but message him... he mentions below in the comments that he'd be willing to share them.

And yeah, the last "classy" option is what ZScott99 posted.... the actual UM2 cover. :-)

This comment has been deleted.
Nov 5, 2015 - Modified Nov 5, 2015

Great job jason but most of all thanks for sharing! I understand something like this takes a lot of time to organize and make. I do have a question if you don't mind. How big is the build volume?

Same as the real UM2.

230mm (X)
225mm (Y)
210-220mm (Z) -- depending on your hotend configuration.

Wondering, did anyone who bought the heated bed from Aliexpress,
Have it work correctly?
The right temp sensor and heats up to about 100 degrees for abs?

The bed I bought from Aliexpress is 7 ohms resistance (whereas it should be around 3-3.5 ohms), it only gets to 60 degrees with 24V. I contacted a few eBay sellers and they all came back with the same resistance, so basically they are no good for this application unless you take the voltage up as alec220 did.
24 / 7 = 3.4 amps or 81 watts, whereas at 3.5 ohms it would be 24 /3.5 = 6.8 amps or 161 watts

I bought a bed for Aliexpress. To make it work properly, I picked up the voltage on the power supply to 27.5 volts and put the leads twice the thickness (soldered in parallel even same wire). Now it is heated to 110 degrees Celsius for 15 minutes.

Nov 5, 2015 - Modified Nov 5, 2015
racerxx - in reply to alec220

Thanks for the reply.
Could you post the link to the bed you bought?

I would buy the heated bed upgrade kit, but its sold out in the US.

This comment has been deleted.

What was the total cost of your build once you finished it, I am considering building my own so I would kust like to know

There's pricing in the BOM. It may be a bit out of date, but close enough for an estimate.

The BOM price doesn't account for build tools (solder, crimps, cable mgmt, etc)

Dear All,

All the electronics are working well (hotend, motors etc.) however, I have run into a problem with the OEM UM2 heat bed. I have the heat bed connected through a SSR relay to a 24v 300w PSU triggered by a Printrboard control board. Unfortunately, the heat bed takes around 15 minutes to heat up to around 80 degree Celsius and then levels off. This is not to the controller managing the heat but simply because the heat bed will not heat up any further. I have even directly connected the heat bed to the 24v 300w PSU without the controller and relay and the same thing happens.

I thought it might be a faulty UM2 heat bed so I bought a new one. No luck there.

Any ideas what may be causing this issue? I'm starting to think it may be the cheap Chinese heat beds fro aliexpress that is the issue.

Alex V

The bed is capable of going beyond 100c, so I'm not certain. "cheap Chinese heat bed".... is it a generic heat bed that's the same size as the official UM2 heatbed or is it an actual UM2 heat bed?

Because it's much easier to buy the "UM heatbed upgrade kit", I did that and it works as well as my real UM2... I have seen heatbeds on Aliexpress that were "real" UM2 heatbeds that has all the official silkscreening on it...Although, I don't know if they perform as well as real thing.

Send a link of the bed(s) you've bought... Other's here have built with cheaper beds... Maybe they'll respond.

Hi Jason,
As you say the bed has all the correct screenings, however, I suspect it is of inferior quality. Here is the one I bought. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-3D-printer-part-DIY-Ultimaker-2-UM2-hot-bed-aluminum-alloy-UM2-built-plate-heated/32395971114.html

Oct 27, 2015 - Modified Oct 27, 2015
jasonatepaint - in reply to AlexVen

Well, here's a couple things to consider while you're troubleshooting this...

-- Is the 24v PSU (which @300 watts should put out 12 amps) really handling the demand of the heatbed? It's possible that power supply just isn't giving the bed enough amps. Also, the mainboard's connector has 2 distinct inputs... this is because one rail of 24v runs the heatbed and the other runs the rest of the stuff. This is because the bed is an amp hog and will use as much as you give it. So if you've jumped those connections from a single rail on the PSU, that could be your problem.

-- Maybe the PT100 thermocouple is bad? If you have a thermometer, like this one you can use it to check across the bed to confirm it's heating evenly.

Hope ya figure it out.

Hi Jason,
I actually have two PSUs. One powering the controller and motors and the other powering the heat bed. I attached the heat bed directly to the PSU and still have a temp issue.

Re. the thermocouple, I am testing the temperature with the temp gun.

Another thing to check (if you've got a multi-meter) is the resistance across the heat bed. Someone further down in the comments had the same issue as you, and found that his heat bed was measuring roughly 6 ohms instead of 3. Since I=V/R, with a resistance double what it should be you'll be getting half the amperage that you need.

Hmmmm... sounds like you're on top of things. :-) The only thing you didn't mention was if you tried a different PSU. Are the 2 you're using the same type/brand? I still lean towards the PSU isn't putting out enough amps to get the bed above 80.

If you're using these types of power supplies, it's possible that it's just not pushing enough amps.... for this one they say 15 amps, but that's not sustained... the bed just pulls too much power and the PSU starts struggling and amperage drops too low to effectively heat the bed. The OEM PSU (brick) from UM is rated at 9.2 amps and does a good job of heating. I'm at 100c in 5-7 minutes, depending on starting temp. For PLA printing, it's only a couple minutes to get to 65c. I guess there's a reason it costs 4-5x more. :-p


I bought a 24v 800w psu and hooked it up. The result? exactly the same! The bed struggles to get to around 65 degrees. This is with both heatbeds.

Any ideas?

Alex V

i'm about 90% through purchasing the components, and was wondering if it is worth trying a cheaper power supply and mounting it under the floor. Is this type of power supply suitable? Is there any reason I shouldn't go down this road?


I did what you have suggested. I have a 24v 350W supply clipped to the side rails.
Hooking up the wires directly to the board is the hard part and as GayssianSphere suggested is probably not the best idea as it adds 2-3mm (depending on the wire gauge you are using) to the bottom of the board and this make the board extremely difficult to slide into the slot as designed.
I am trying to find a suitable plug and I'll change to the having the power wire come out of the machine and plug into the board as it was designed. Or my second option is to buy a clone of the Ultimaker power supply and mount it under the floor and then run the lead to the board as described above.

Thanks for the info, I might go with the power supply in the BOM and get more adventurous with a second build!

Hahah, sounds like a plan! I started with a Printrbot Simple 1405 Makers kit (4x4x4" build volume) and upgraded that over winter break of last year. It was a big learning experience for sure, and I took a lot of what I learned building that forward into this build. That's probably one of my favorite things about this hobby, there's always something new to try out!

I'd wait for someone who actually has an Ultimaker 2 control board (I assume that's what you're using) before making any decisions, but here's my two cents:

The UM2 controller board has a specific plug for power, as compared to just a couple of screw-terminals (i.e RAMPS 1.4, etc).
While it may be possible to just solder a couple of wires to the correct terminals on the bottom of the PCB, I would highly, highly, highly suggest against that. 24 volts may not sound like much, but 30 amps is more than enough to do some damage to your printer electronics, start a fire, etc.
The only option that would be remotely recommended would be to find the correct power plug that the UM2 controller board uses, and wire it to the output 24v power supply you linked.

Like I said, I would definitely wait for someone who has experience with this board to chime in, but I think you might be somewhat stuck with the official power supply.

You make a good point, I don't have any experience with the motherboard and that's why I thought it better to ask. I was thinking of getting the correct plug and wiring it up, however it probably is a big risk, one misstep and I might fry the board.

It will be interesting to hear if anyone else has any other experience with other power supplies. Aliexpress also has a 24v 12.3A Dell power supply with the same 4 pin plug. I wonder if the extra 3 amp capability would be of benefit with the heated bed?

In the BOM, under Heatbed (part-by-part), there is a 4-pin Kycon connector. That's the connector you need. It's completely possible to do. And to make it easier, here's an image of the pins and their required polarity. http://i.imgur.com/AkZkut0.jpg

Hi Jason, Thank you for posting the polarity picture. I have gone the part by part route for the heat bed, as once you convert from USD to AUD and then add $100 postage the official kit was up from $320 US to around the $500 AUD mark. I'm hoping that the heat beds on Aliexpress have the same power requirements as the official one and the listed power supply will be sufficient.

FYI, as an alternative last night I switched to an EZStruder setup for driving my 1.75mm filament. It was a pretty painless switch. Just changed the direction of the extruder motor in the marlin config file and then changed the e-steps to 94. So far it seems to feed my filament much more consistently. (but others may have better luck with the existing setup. Maybe I just had a weak spring)

I'll update once I have a chance to put some hours behind this new setup.

The EZStruder is a pretty nice extruder. I actually ripped one apart to get the Mk7 drive gear for my direct drive experiment. It's working out pretty well so far. However it needs a re-think/redesign as I'm losing some print area.

I think the "weak spring" diagnoses is correct. I had the same issue w/the first spring I used. It was more pronounced w/ABS since it's softer... the spring wouldn't apply enough pressure against and the filament would get stripped. The problem with the extruder in the bom is that it doesn't counteract the force that's applied against the motor shaft as you tighten the spring, which causes the motor to overheat and lose steps. This problem can be resolved with 2 bearings that sit on the other side of the shaft/gear to keep the axial force lower on the shaft, keeping the motor from working so hard.

yeah, if you're basing the direct drive off my e3d mount I'm not surprised about the lost print area. When I originally designed it, I knew the e3d was tall. So I just move it up and pushed the bearing mounts to the left and back. I think if I ever get around to a version 2 i'm going to sacrifice some Z and move the bearings and hotend closer to the original UM2 position. Well assuming everything would fit and not hit the frame.

Oct 21, 2015 - Modified Oct 21, 2015
GaussianSphere - in reply to lions3

Were you using the stock extruder before? I've heard many a horror story about how under-powered it is....
Although I don't currently have any issues with my aluminum extruder that came off of the Printrbot Simple that was frankensteined into this beast, I do really want to try out an geared extruder that has drive wheels on either side of the filament.

The stock extruder wasn't really weak... it just was not super great. :-) But the drive (knurled) gear and the nema17 motor was just fine with a bit of redesign. The extruder in the BOM have been on my official and clone UM2 for a while now and have been reliable. As mentioned above, the choice of spring is important.

I'm working on a design now that uses a PG35L lightweight geared nema 17 motor that's direct drive, getting rid of the bowden setup. The extruder sits on the gantry with the hotend, so things like retraction get easier and I can use filament like ninjaflex. It's the only filament type I have that I've never been able to get thru a bowden system.


Oct 24, 2015 - Modified Oct 24, 2015

Having hung around the Ultimaker forums for a bit, it always seems like that's everybody's first suggestion, to ditch the stock extruder heheh. I'm sure it's probably more than fine for most cases - those guys there definitely like to push the limits of the machine.
I know there is a couple guys there doing direct-drive extruders with tiny Nema 17's. I'm sure you've checked it out, but if not, I can highly recommend doing so. Lots of good ideas all around!

I'm still working on getting my machine 100% to where I want it with the current single-extruder Bowden setup... after that I'll have to evaluate where I want to go next with it. I really want to figure out a dual extrusion setup that isn't terrible...

How hard would it be to take this existing design and just build a bigger frame to make it a bigger printer? Aside from getting larger belts and a larger bed, of course.

Oct 18, 2015 - Modified Oct 18, 2015

Here is a way to press in the flanged bearings..... This is a tight fit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6RaZ15ZnXnA

Tried the modifyed gantry design, but bearings were too Loose = Unprecise fitting!

For what it's worth for those who are looking at upgrading an existing printer, stay away from this linear rods: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-6mm-Shaft-376mm-15-Hardened-Rod-Rail-Linear-Motion-3D-Printer-XYZ-/171076245024?hash=item27d4f05620

My printer has been running for what, five days of light use now, and the 6mm rods have gouges in them. My linear bearings are fine (They're from two totally different sets of new bearings even), it's just that the case hardening is terrible on these rods I guess... Oh well. Looking at getting a refund from Ebay now and just put in an order at McMaster.

When ordering the 8 linear rods, do I go with
Print Head shaft X/Y diameter:6 mm length:320mm --- 1pcs (A)
Print Head shaft X/Y diameter:6 mm length:301mm --- 1pcs (A)
Print Head shaft X/Y diameter:6 mm length:267mm --- 2pcs (B)
Im assuming its option A, but I'd hate to be wrong and have to return them.

Yep.. option A.

Check out Ultimaker's Github site: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2

They have all the parts w/specs and at the bottom of that list, the assembly manual. Lots of info there.

Oct 12, 2015 - Modified Oct 13, 2015

Whew, finally got it all put together and running. Once I hand-fit all the bearings and pulleys to the rods I then had to fight with the firmware for about four hours for the Printrboard Rev F that I'm using.... But, it's all done now. This thing runs like a champ and is stupidly quiet. Excellent work my friend!

Printboard F Rev ??, could you tell a little more about that??.

Oct 15, 2015 - Modified Oct 15, 2015

The Printrboard Rev F is just a controller board. I upgraded from a heavily modified PrintrBot Simple, and rather than buying a new controller board I just reconfigured this one. If I were to ever need to buy a new controller board, I would definitively go with a RAMPS board or something similar over the Printrboard... Not as many options.

I have 99% built this machine, just waiting on Pt100 sensor and heater block for the E3dv6 lite hotend I plan to use.
Whilst testing the heat bed heating, the temp never got above 65 degrees C. So out came the multimeter and the heat bed measures 7.3 ohms so only about 65Watts of heating, like no where near enough although it did amazingly well to get to 65 degrees C. This is a chinese heatbed from Aliexpress.
Could someone measure the resistance of a working heatbed for me please, I suspect it will be around 3 ohms.

This afternoon I going to measure it. I bought it from Aliexpress to. I can reach 100 degrees but I had to isolate the heat bed to improve the velocity to reach to that temperature and avoid to lose it quickly.


I have cardboard under my heat bed with Aluminium tape, not quite as neat as yours.
A kind gent from the Ultimaker forum measured his genuine heatbed at 3.8ohms. So I had a hard look at the chinese copy and they use the correct mask but their layer thickness is too thin, hence the higher resistance.
Ordered a genuine heat bed, now another 2 week wait. I will get this thing running sometime .......

Well, fudge. I got the last of my parts in last night and got the frame built. I went to start on the gantries, but it seems like all of the F688Z bearings and pulleys I got from RobotDigg are under-sized on the I.D (7.92mm). I'm not sure what to do at this point... They're all too tight to fit on my 8.00mm rods...

I had the same issue... Try with a hammer, it's pretty stiff you shouldn't brake it. You can also warm the pulleys and freeze the rods....

How has everyone's experience been with Robotdigg and Aliexpress? They both seem to have questionable reviews about them.

Robotdigg worked out well for me - although shipping was $25... but I can't complain because it was decently fast. Aliexpress is just like eBay, so YMMV between sellers. Thus far I've gotten everything except two parts, but those should be on the way. Shipping is free/cheap for what you need from there, so it's definitely slow coming from China.

Awesome files! Has anyone scaled this slightly larger for say a 10x10" or 8x12"? I'm wondering if that 50 to 100 mm would be to much for the rods or if one could get away with that upgrade with out redesigning everything.

I think it would mostly come down to finding parts in the length you need. I would take the CAD file and expose just the frame and things attached to the frame (except the bed)... then slice the entire thing down the center on both X and Y axis. The stretch it out to the size you want. You can then extend one side of the rods and extrusions.... That would at least allow you to measure out the parts that would be to be replaced.

I finished printing all of the parts tonight... now I'm just waiting on everything to get here from China heehee. I'll be keeping an eye on the comments here and I'll definitely be posting up a finished build in a month or so!

Sep 26, 2015 - Modified Sep 27, 2015

Hello Jasonatepaint,
Why the 24v fan on extruder always are connected?, I have to unplug the printer of the power supply for they switch off.
What I have to do to they only start when the printer begin to print?

The most important... where I have to connect that fans (24 volt) see picture http://i.imgur.com/ranQHyc.png

Another question.....

Exist any way that the printer when finish of print some piece it switch off alone??

At the same time, do you know some pin of the electric board which is free and I can use to get a signal for turn of the printer at the end of the pirnt process. Something like when the printer has finished and go to the 0,0,0 position o axis x,y,z for this pin I can get a electric signal to command with another arduino card'?

Sep 28, 2015 - Modified Sep 28, 2015

The cooling fans are 12v, wired in a series (black wire of one fan is wired to red wire of other fan..the other red/black are wired to the Fan PWM port.

The other 24v connector in your image is an extra 24v output for other accessories. The PWM port is controlled via the control panel. The other 24v output is on all the time when the main board is switched on. If either of those stay on all the time, regardless of the power switch, you have blown out something (a diode?) that causes power to flow all the time. This doesn't affect the operation of the board, but the power is always on.

To have the printer turn itself off after printing, the easiest way is just use a timer and just set it for longer than the print job. The more difficult way would be to build a circuit that listens for some signal (voltage possibly) that triggers a Sold state relay that cuts the power. I'm sure someone's built something similar...just gotta go find it. ;-)

Does not work it. It is doing the same stuff. I turn on the printer and the startup appears on screen. when I select continue the bed goes up whithout stop and hit the noxle.

WHAT I AM DOING WRONG???? Some one knows????

I think you may have already resolved your issue, but if you haven't... as boelle said, the easiest solution is to just take the plug, turn it 180 degrees and plug it back in. Unfortunately, with this plug type, you can't do that.

I'm guessing that you used my photos for reference, but when putting the crimp connectors into the plug, you did it backwards... maybe?

So if your wires are in this order (for example): red, gray, yellow, green... switch it so it's green, yellow, gray, red.

Sep 26, 2015 - Modified Sep 26, 2015

All fix!!!!!!. Isn´t a problem with the stepper wire connector. I have uploaded a bad firmware. At the configuration h file the z axis indicated 330 mm of lengh (fixed uploading the correct firmware). Thanks you to all. Jasonatepint, you are the best!!!. Regards

Hi, Did you end up switching the cables around as mentioned or was it a firmware issue? I have the same Robotdigg motors and cables, and have just got to the stage of wiring everything up.


Sep 26, 2015 - Modified Sep 26, 2015

Please Jasonatepaint, I let you the picture of my stteper motor wire connection. Please tell me if the wires are in the correct position. I think that they are in the wrong position, because when the bed must go down, it goes up.

This happen at the begining in the first set up. First Z- end stop switch stuck . I fix change it to close position. Now, when the ed go up to adjust the distance to the noxle, he does not stop and hit the noxle. I don´t whats is wrong. Someone knows??

Please I need someone give me a answer!!Help!!

My stepper motors are fron robotdigg.



jut turn the Z stepper connector 180 degrees... it can happen to the best of us

I do not understand you 180 degrees??? what that meaning?. You say that I have to change the red with green, and yellow with grey is that??

you will have to do the same for X and Y also as they are also wired wrong

how is extruder stepper connected in the other end (motor end)?

the wire of the stepper motor did not came with connector. the wires go out directly from stepper and I wired it like you see in the picture, recomended by jasonatepaint.

you say there is no connector on the stepper?


shows that there is a connector.....

but it does not matter.... if the stepper turns the wrong way you just rotate the plug on board 180 degrees

how does the other steppers look like? also like http://s13.postimg.org/h18gx6ycn/Z_Stepper.png


Sep 26, 2015 - Modified Sep 26, 2015
morfeushavana - in reply to boelle

No sorry, the stepper motor in Z, X, and Y axis have conector like the picture. And following your advice I will change the wire like you say red with green and yelow with grey. The stepper motor of the extruder is which has not came with connector and I wire and plug to the board following the jasonatepaint indications. See pictures




but yes looking at your picture you are 100% correct on what to do

Then I have to swap the wires??? in thi order

red with green
yellow with grey

Please confirm it. I can´t find information on internet.
Thats is that I have to do?

but you have to do it for X and Y also

100% correct

its common knowledge on stepper that if they turn the wrong way you just rotate the plug 180 degree

I will do it now. I hope that work. I have to change to y-end and x-end stops. thanks you

Sep 26, 2015 - Modified Sep 26, 2015
boelle - in reply to morfeushavana

you have read the assembly manual right?


page 66 - there you can see the order of the wires

change blue and black

change red and green

I do not have blue or black wire. My stepper motor are form robotdigg and the wire colors are , red, yellow, gray and green..



look above for right answers

Hello Jasonatepant. Please help wih this.

Which is the ormal position for the end swicths


Z switch stuck

Please help with this

All 3 switches should be wired as "Normally Open" (NO)... which means that the connection between the wires are not connected (or closed).

As mentioned, a multimeter can detect this in "continuity mode"....

if something is pressing the switch then you found the problem

if nothing is pressing the switch first remove it from printer and messure the switch with a multimeter

sometimes a switch is just bad when you get it

Do you have updated print pics? I have limited access to a UM2 Extended and im getting much better quality prints than your Yoda in the sample pics or the youtube vid. Very tempted to do this build.

I think the photo just misrepresents the quality. The LEDs, camera flash and the macro lens really highlight the layers... You can tell by the large depth of field by using a large aperture under mostly low light. The black Yoda's finish is silky smooth and at 100 microns, you barely see the layers in normal (non-harsh) light. The blue Yoda has a bit of under extrusion, but that's because printing at 200 microns, you're pushing out 2 times the amount of plastic and I was printing too fast (and/or not hot enough) to push the plastic out consistently...

I have a real UM2 and get the same quality on it as I do on this clone. The magic to good printer quality is taking your time with the fit and assembly while you're building. The clone has the same hardware (basically) and same configuration of parts... the reason a real UM2 is high quality is because the Ultimaker guys professionally build the printers. You can do the same thing, it just takes time. Don't rush it.

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Sep 26, 2015 - Modified Sep 26, 2015
jasonatepaint - in reply to boelle

A 600mm version: a lot. You'd need to beef up quite a few parts. I'd look at 3030 or maybe 2040 extrusions...which means you'd have to redesign most, if not all of the parts. Also w/600mm, the 6mm rods that hold the printhead on the X/Y axis might have too much flex. Can it be done? Yes... but you'd be designing from scratch in a lot of areas.

EDIT: Also how many of the printed parts could be replaced with ready made metal versions? like motor brackets etc

The outer brackets that hold the extrusions together could be. I didn't because they're expensive if you buy the official Misumi parts. The Chinese parts are questionable as to fit/finish. All other parts are designed to affix components at specific locations. Not all parts have freedom for movement and need to be exactly where they're designed to be.

EDIT2: I see in the BOM you have steppers with 0.9 step angle... what good or harm would it do to replace the 1.9 degree with 0.9 ?

Totally doable... just have to edit the firmware to account for 400 steps per rotation instead of 200

EDIT3: Found a missing item in the BOM: Limit Switch (X-axis needs long arm)

These are the ones I used on my second build: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/10-Pcs-Micro-Limit-Switch-Long-Lever-Arm-SPDT-Subminiature-Snap-Action-CNC-Home/32236046590.html

EDIT4: I have made a copy of the googledoc and updated the prices:

Thanks! :-)

EDIT5: Many might run in to trouble...

Really? I did not know that. I opened an account a long time ago, but just as a person, not a business. You should only need a couple feet of both sizes. I bought both as a roll, as it's good for other projects too. Makes things clean and easy to deal with. Also, add heatshrink tubing so you can put it at both ends of the sleeving to keep it from fraying. I didn't put all that in the BOM because I sort of considered it not required and up to the builder.

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Any of those would work. Only X axis needs a long lever.

As far as plexiglass or dibond goes, no real opinion. Cost would be my deciding factor.

I don't remember the exact length of bowden.... most places sell it by the foot. I'd get 3 and have some extra for other filament guide projects.

about the alu extrusions.... i got an reply from misumi europe and they dont sell to private individuals...


seems to be a choice

Those seem fine. The only thing you might want to check is that the assembly nuts you buy are compatible. They appear to be the same style, so shouldn't be an issue. "Shouldn't"... famous last words. :-)


i just hope i dont run in to other supplie issues... could of course always try and ask the local pizza delivery if i can use their company info to get the "real thing" and just have it delivered direct to my door

me is going to build this in stages as i'm not employed and have to watch the cash level not going to low

thanks for that.... the link for the printhead indicates 3mm filament.... do you also have a link for 1.75mm?

i found this one: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/3D-printer-parts-Ultimaker-2-UM2-all-metal-aluminum-alloy-printing-head-hot-end-kit-set/115344_32287260492.html

but not sure on it

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Sep 20, 2015 - Modified Sep 20, 2015

Hello Jasonatepaint. I am a few step of finish my build. I haven´t connected it yet to the power source. I am realized that when I manually get up the entirely heatbed (with already every thing mounted, plate, glass etc) it does not kept in the up position always come down few centimeters. it this normally??
I explain a little more
I manually positioned the hotbed in the up position near to the nozzle
When i left hold it in that position the entirely of hotbed lowered a few centimeters alone. Is this normally??


Hi Morfeushavana,

Could you please post another picture of your entire work ? Love the color ;)

Ultimaker 2 Aluminum Extrusion 3D printer

Hiya! I'm planning on converting my existing printer (a heavily modified Printrbot Simple 1405) over to this frame design, as I feel like it would be a much more stable and space efficient printer... Anyways, I want to use the existing 220x220mm heated bed and aluminum build plate from my current printer for this upgrade. Getting a piece of aluminum sheet stock machined to match the official Ultimaker support plate but with the correct hole placement to fit my 220mm heated bed is not an issue. However, I wondered if you had any guidance on where I should position it?
I was planning on essentially centering it in the same place that the official heatbed goes, but I wanted to make sure that the printer wouldn't have any issues reaching all four sides (i.e do I need shift the bed forward or back to make use of all of it?)

I do realize that I will lose a small amount of print real-estate by going this route, but at this point I figure saving an extra few hundred bucks would definitely be worth it. I plan to have the mounting holes for the official heated bed cut into my custom plate as well, so if I want to upgrade down the road the option is open.

Sorry for the delay!

The XYZ axises can be set in the firmware. You can either: A) Place the heatbed towards the back left (X:0, Y:0) and then just adjust the MAX lengths (X_MAX_POS, Y_MAX_POS) in the firmware. Or B) Center the heatbed and change both MIN and MAX for X and Y.

Sep 20, 2015 - Modified Sep 20, 2015

Oh yeah! I also would love to reuse the stepper motors from my current printer for the X & Y axis - would the 46mm long steppers fit without interfering with the bed?

Thanks for all your help!

46mm may be pushing it. I just checked with an extra 47mm I had laying around and it clears the heatbed for the Extruder, Z, and X axis... but NOT the Y Axis.. it clips the cover on the bed. The cover is not necessary and will probably work then. You can always just get a single 40mm for the Y-axis.

Ah, awesome! Since I'm not buying the official heat bed kit I won't have the cover in the way anyways... I'll see how it works once I get it all put together and I'll go from there... I appreciate your help!

Try to visualize it with autodesk online to see if the nema 46mm will fit. I have also the same question : I want to reuse my MK2B heatbed to fit this printer 220 x 220. I think that we should buy/cut the ultimaker 2 aluminium plate that moves vertically on the Z axis. The point is that the official heatbed over the Z aluminium plate is also made of aluminium on one face (toward the glass). It means that we have to cut an aluminium part that makes the interface between the Z axis aluminium plate and our mk2b heatbed (with the correct holes on it).
The glass retaining clip will not fit in this case... because the Z axis aluminium plate is bigger than the mk2b heatbed and its glass.

I've actually got the aluminum plate modeled and ready to be cut with the waterjet I have access to. I just need to buy the aluminum stock and I'll be ready to go. If you want, I could upload the Autodesk Inventor file along with a .dxf of the plate as a remix?

With pleasure my friend ;)

It's posted! Let me know if you have any questions!

Hello Jasonatepaint.
I have this issue. I am wiring my build. I now realized that the value of the pt sensor of the hotend and the heatbed are differentes. The heatbed PT 100 sensor is working fine I think, increase the resistance value while I am heating the bed. At 24 ºC it have a resistence value about 114 ohms. Until here all ok.
Now I have two PT 100 sensor that I have buyed, one from aliex.... another one from robot.... boths give me a value totally different among they and different from the value of the pt sensor of heatbed. One 8 ohms another one of 160 ohms Both are new

My question. Does the PT100B sensor of hotend must to give the same resistence value with the temperature increase that the heatbed sensor?

Someone could help me with this?

Fixed...... A bad conection or resistence on plugs

Very good! :-)

Sep 17, 2015 - Modified Sep 17, 2015

Hello ! I did blow out the fan PWM by using a too low voltage fan at first. Now they only work at 100% rpm. So I would like ton invert the Fan PWM and the LED PWM wiring (I don't need to regulate the light intensity). Thus, I have to edit the firmware in order to make the LED PWM output respond to M106 command and vice versa.... Do you know how to do it ? Will the fan regulation settings in the TUNE menu work as well if I implement this modification ?

If you're not planning on using 2 hotend/extruders, you can use the second hotend 24v output, which uses PWM too. Just do this:

Edit the firmware file: pins.h
Line 1187, change:
from: #define HEATER_1_PIN 3
to: #define HEATER_1_PIN -1

Line 1205, change:
from: #define FAN_PIN 7
to: #define FAN_PIN 3

Save and upload to the board. Your fans will work w/PWM off the 2nd hotend output. If the old fan outputs still work at 100% (255), you can always use it for something else as a constant 24v.

How do I know this? I did the same thing on my first board. :-D

Great ! I will do that, many thanks !

One more.....
I have buyed a cheap heatbed plate. I have realized that she does not come with the temperature sensor. Somebody know which is the temperature sensor specification to buy it? http://i.imgur.com/5UwVa4C.png

Nov 21, 2015 - Modified Nov 21, 2015
alec220 - in reply to morfeushavana

I forgot to order the bed thermocouple and put it on the hot bed thermistor, connect it to an analog input and bit changing firmware page Pince prescribing the sensor pin 15, respectively, and selecting the configuration page right thermistor.

define TEMP_SENSOR_0 20

define TEMP_SENSOR_1 20

define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0






  • Ultiboard v2.0 pin assignment


define TEMP_BED_PIN 15

Where did you buy it ?

Sep 14, 2015 - Modified Sep 14, 2015
morfeushavana - in reply to -Nx-

Hello Jasonatepaint, first, thank you for all your help. If I am building this is for your constantly support.
I have a few more questions for you.
For my build I will use this power supply http://i.imgur.com/bAeEEY3.jpg, at the begining, I have the enough money to buy the correct supply. I know the card use 24 volt DC. I want use the correct plug (I have buyed http://i.imgur.com/08gFdgQ.png). But I need to know if I have to connect both pin to + and - like I show in the picture. I think is correct but I prefer ask first. I have to connect it like in picture?? http://i.imgur.com/bH7c9ae.png.

Another doubt is how to connect the stepper motor to card. For my building I have to buy the connectors and pins, but I dont know in which position I have to plug it to the card. Could you give a light in this?? http://i.imgur.com/ETm6dDc.png

And the last question for today is if you can post here a direct link to download the firmware to your built. Remember I am rookie and I haven´t any knowledge of arduino and how to program. Thats why I appreciate if you can post a guide step by step to how I can do it.

Thanks you for all, I am sure that all this question and answers will help to everybody that want to build this beutiful machine.

Here ya go: http://i.imgur.com/AkZkut0.jpg The polarity is based on looking at the plug. Be aware of that when wire it up.

As far as wiring the Nema 17 stepper motors, the color codes vary from manufacturer. Attached are 2 different printers with different color codes. Hopefully one of your motors match something here. If you got your motors from robotdigg.com, your wire colors should match the second photo, with the gray wire. On a side note, you'll see that I got better at crimping on the second image. :-)


As far as the firmware goes... did you read the last page on the instructions about uploading/modifying the firmware? It depends on what you've changed or what you're using. My original BOM had the wrong stepper (1.8 instead of .9 degree), but could be fixed in the firmware (or via MCode commands to the printer). If you are using the .9 degree stepper on the extruder motor and are using the same extruder/heatbed/temp sensors, then you shouldn't have to do anything. There is already a version of UM2 firmware on the board, although I can't say which version. You can check it out via the display --> advanced settings. All changes that need to be made are within 1 file "configuration.h".

Hope that helps!

Thanks you a lot!!!

I know now how to wire and plug the stepper motor to electronic board. Yes, I buyed all the stepper motors on robotdigg as you post in your BOM. Now I am waiting to recieve the 0.9 degree stepper. I do not want to make any change to the firmware. I didn´t know that the board come with a version of UM2 firmware. When I´ll go to plug it at first time i will revise and check it. I suppose that for upload the firmware to the board it must to be connect it to a power supply and to the pc together. Until I do not have all the parts to finish my build I can´t plug it to the 24v source supply.

Which device is this on the picture you post??


Where on the electric board you connected it the 24 led strip light? Is possible to use 12 v strip light?

Once more thanks for all. Thanks for share. Without your help this went be really dificult for all us.

Forgive me all my bad english......

E1 is Extruder 1. You won't use E2 for a single extruder machine.

You should download the official UM2 assembly manual. The manual illustrates (with pictures) how to assemble all the electronics. The LEDs plug into a 2-pin port near the front of the board, next to the fan port.

You must use 24 LEDs. If you plug 12v LEDs into that port, you'll blow out the PWM. There's a link below in the comments for the type of 24 LEDs to use.

Hello Jasonatepaint.

In your BOM your linked for the printhead a link to aliexpress where specificate that if for the use of 3 mm of material. It will be a kind of problem for the work of printer later, or I have to modificate something?? I am trying to know how I can to mount everything in the printhead to be sure what parts i will to need. For example How the peek insulater match with the ptfe tube? Have I to adquire a peek insulator, or a mouthpiece for the use of 1,75 mm??.

Which are really the advantage of use 1,75 mm??

The printhead on Aliexpress can be ordered as 1.75 or 3mm filament. Depending on which one you buy, it will come with a PTFE coupler. Just add a comment in your order that says you want the 1.75 version...otherwise 3mm comes as default. The printhead comes assembled, so it's easy to see how it all fits together. The PTFE coupler has a slot for the PTFE tubing, depending on the filament size. It's 4mm OD for 1.75mm filament and 6mm OD for 3mm filament.

The advantage of 1.75 over 3mm is that the extruder motor in this build isn't geared. This means the motor needs a fair amount of torque for 3mm. The motor requires less torque to drive 1.75mm filament, so it doesn't work as hard. Also, with pushing thinner filament it turns more steps to extrude the same amount of filament, which allows finer control with extrusion and retraction.

Thanks for sharing this info, I have had most of the parts printed for a month or so now, how ever I have run out of funds. But I plan to finish it one day.

Sep 6, 2015 - Modified Sep 6, 2015


Someone knows the name of the conector of heat bed?


I need know too where I can buy this parts. It is the last part I need to finish my build and start with the wiring process


Someone know for what this part of the heatbed is used??


Where I can get this bearing? or at least which is its reference.


I don't know the part name for that connector. You might find it in the design docs on Ultimaker's Github page.

That connector can be bought here: http://www.filastruder.com/collections/e3d-spare-parts-and-accessories/products/bowden-couplings-threaded-1-75mm They sell a 1.75 and 3mm version.

That little "nub" on the heatbed cover serves no purpose. I may have a purpose on the original UM, but the instructions don't indicate anything.

This is the bearing: http://www.robotdigg.com/product/232/688-2RS+Ball+Bearing

Sep 1, 2015 - Modified Sep 1, 2015

Other than changing the material to 1.75mm ABS on the display is there anything else to change? Well I also changed the default flow rate from 107% to 95. Is there anything else in either Cora or in the firmware config file? Last night I attempted my first print and it was extruding too much material. Is there something I forgot?

Sep 1, 2015 - Modified Sep 1, 2015
jasonatepaint - in reply to lions3

Okay so here's the skinny... The UM2 uses 1.8 degree (200steps/mm) on the X/Y/Z motors... but a .9 (400steps/mm) for the extruder. I screwed up on the BOM and put a 1.8 degree stepper. I have not investigated why they do that... my guess is possibly more control over extrusion w/more steps per mm.

I am running a 1.8 degree motor and 1.75mm filament and have seen zero difference between both the original (running 1.75) and this clone in quality. 1.75mm filament doesn't need the additional force that 3mm filament may benefit from.

If you're using the 1.8 degree motor, you can fix this by issuing a M92 command (http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M92:_Set_axis_steps_per_unit)

Connect w/Repetier (or something similar) and issue the following command: M92 E180 (hit return)

Make a note of this and add it to your firmware... incase you ever flash it. It's in configuration.h and looks like:

-- #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.0,80.0,200,282}

That number was acquired by starting with 141 (half of 282). This was under extruding. I printed a calibration cube on my original UM2. Then increased the value until I was getting identical extrusion. This is using the same UM2 knurled drive gear for the extruder.

If you happen to be using a different drive gear, then your steps_per_unit will differ.

Note to anyone looking at this. The UM2 motherboard saves the e-steps setting to eprom. So after running: M92 E180 in either Repetier or Pronterface MAKE SURE to save your settings to the eprom. Which is the command: M500

I kept changing the e-steps (in my case it was 155) but when I turned off and on the machine my e-steps reverted back to 282. Doh.

Also if you're curious of your existing EPROM settings or want to verify your e-steps changed type M501

I think this matter of modify the firmawere will be a little dificult for my on my beginings. Could you explain more easily, something like for fool people how modify it?. I adquired a stepper motor of 1.8 degree like posted in your BOM. If I adquire another stepper motor of 0.9 degree (link below) I won´t need to modify nothing on the firmaware??


How my baby looks.



Correct. That motor you linked to will work. Just keep in mind that the 1.8 degree motors in the BOM are 40mm in length. This one is 48mm in length. When mounted, it looks like it should clear the default heated bed/plate w/o an issue.

Updating the firmware isn't too difficult. Under the covers it's an Arduino 2650.... I put details at the end of build instructions, if you want to save yourself $$ (and wait time) using the motor you have.

I will update the BOM to reflect a .9 degree motor for the extruder. Sorry about that. I wish I had kept better notes about the build when I created. It was built first and then I decided to publish it and I forgot some things along the way. You guys have been great about reminding me where I screwed up. :-)

Your build looks great! Can't wait til you get it up and running!

hahaha.. I knew it had to be something like that. I have a 1.8 motor and the standard knurled gear. My other printer, a Mendel90, also uses a 1.8 for a direct drive extruder and i've never had any issues. So maybe 0.9 is really only needed for larger filament. As the diameter is larger and it moves slower. Thus needing more steps.

Also no biggie about flashing the firmware. I already planned to do it tonight to adjust the Max Y to account for my E3D mount.

Hello Jasonatepaint. It is almost ready. Where I can get the connectors to connect all devices to electronic board. All the connectors who came with the stepper motor does not match. Is the same for temperature connectors and fan connectors.

I need too you make a picture of the details of Y end switch position. I don´t understand very well. I see that this printer have end switch onf axis Y only and on Z axis (down and up) but don´t have on X axis.....??

Pd. Remember I´m newbie in this world of 3D printers.

They're actually in the BOM... under other/various parts.

I can take some pictures later when I have a chance... but in the mean time go here: https://myhub.autodesk360.com/ue29daf71/shares/public/SHabee1QT1a327cf2b7a3740d73d0935e0d3

That's the source file that you can rotate and zoom around to get a better idea of where things go. You can also download it and import it into Fusion 360 (it's free) and see the entire printer and all it's named parts.

Aug 31, 2015 - Modified Aug 31, 2015

Help. I need either 12 or 24v from the motherboard for my E3D fan. (I have both a 12v and a 24v fan sitting on my desk). Anyone know what pins I can use?

Without thinking last night I ran a 12v E3D fan to the 5v extruder fan port on the board. Nothing bad happened. It just ran much much slower as it could only draw 5 volts.

Also on a side note, here's my custom E3D mount: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:992952

E3D Custom UM2 Mount
by lions3

Okay, yeah.... at the FRONT of the board (to the right of the big blue relay and above the screw terminal ports) is a 2-pin 24v output. It could run a fan w/o issue. It's an always on output, so it can't control it via G codes. If you wanted/needed to, use the 2nd screw terminal (heater 2, I think).... you can access that pin via gcode to turn on/off during printing... which is something I may change on mine at some point.

Sep 1, 2015 - Modified Sep 1, 2015
lions3 - in reply to jasonatepaint

oh nice. that would work.

Now the question. How do I get to it without tearing about the UM2?

UPDATE: Done. Took some work to wiggle the MB out far enough but I should be good now. Just need to wire up the 24v fan and kick the power on.

Aug 30, 2015 - Modified Aug 30, 2015

Looks like a great design. I definitely want to build one, but I had a few questions:

  1. (major concern) Is this one as quiet as the original Ultimaker 2, despite the fact that it uses Chinese bushings for the XY gantry? I originally started looking into the Ultimaker because of its quietness in addition to its speed. I'm really hoping that this version is just as or nearly as quiet as the real thing.

  2. (Less of a concern) Where might I find the print table back cover? It doesn't really matter whether it's the Dibond one on the Ultimaker 2 or the wood laser-cut one such as the one you have, I just want it since it looks sweet. This wouldn't actually affect my decision of whether or not I would go ahead and build this, but it would be cool if you could point me in a direction where I could buy one.

  3. (Actually about the Ultimaker in general) I see that all Ultimakers use 6mm smooth rods instead of 8mm on the XY carriage carriers/whatever they're called (you get the idea). Having owned both an original UM2 and this new design, do you notice any bending on these 6mm rods? Presumably they lower the weight and increase speed so I'm happy to use them, but I was curious as to whether or not they are strong enough to hold the carriage without any warping or bending.

That's about all. This really is a great design, and IMO looks better than the original Ultimaker 2. (I'm not a fan of plastic or wood sheets and love the industrial effect created by extruded aluminum). If it's as silent as the Ultimaker 2, it's definitely going to be my next project.

Thanks. Here's what I know:

1) Yes it's just as quiet. It's actually more quiet... but I don't actually know why. It's the stepper motors that make all the noise. They run the same extruders and use the same amperage (default UM2) values. I think it might be because open design doesn't create that more cavernous sound like the enclosed UM2. Also the big rubber feet help dispel noise.

2) The lasercut version (that I stained black) comes with the official Ultimaker heated bed upgrade kit. Check out the BOM, it'll explain what else comes with the kit. Another user has created a 3D version you can print. Also, you can get the DXF file from Ultimaker's Github so you can cut it yourself.

3) Well, unless you're going to mount a heavy direct-drive extruder on the head, you should see no affect. The official UM2 printhead (which is in the BOM) is pretty light weight. The black plastic brackets that holds the belt/tension spring also has a slot for the 6mm rods to pop into.... so if you were to upgrade, you'd have to design those brackets.

If you decide to build the printer, make sure to read thru all the comments. It's a wealth of information and has answers to some of your questions. Check out the updated parts other users have made. I am planning to deprecate some of my parts in favor of theirs, like the X/Y Motor mounts. Good luck! :-)

Aug 31, 2015 - Modified Aug 31, 2015
karlzhao314 - in reply to jasonatepaint
  1. That is awesome. I've definitely decided to build it now. Unfortunately, I do have to finish my P3Steel, which is becoming more and more of a pain, but as soon as that's done I'm moving on and leaving the world of Mendels and Prusas forever. (Sorry Josef Prusa, nothing personal)

  2. I'll try to find the printed one. I'm unfortunately not buying the kit, as it does add to the cost unnecessarily and I seem to already have gotten the self-sourced heated bed assembly down to $240 as opposed to $320. Thanks for the heads up though :)

  3. Excellent. I'm not going direct drive, may end up going dual extruders but that shouldn't add that much weight.

I'll take your advice and read the comments. If this printer works out how I hope it will it will be a dream come true. Thank you very much for having the idea and making the design. :D

Just wanted to do a quick update about something interesting. I'm sidelining my own project for now and instead building one (cost-reduced to $500 with an E3D Chimera) for my school. Nothing's happened yet, since I just submitted the BOM today and the staff might order by the end of the week, but I've been playing around with a few things.

I actually took the original STEP files for the print head carriage block (designed to be injection molded) and printed them. If you use a lot of perimeters and 100% infill (which is easy since they have such small volume), they're actually quite strong, but since they're hollow they could be reinforced even further. On top of that, they're braced by the sturdy LM6LUU bearings, and have ridges that fit in the bearing's ridges to keep it seated firmly in place.

All this means is that if someone potentially doesn't want to fork out nearly $100 for a print head set that matches the Ultimaker's, but still wants to keep it as close to the Ultimaker as possible, they could probably just print a set of the carriage blocks and buy the rest of the parts (which I think I've seen floating around) for cheaper.

Have you consider using something similar to this? http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:255413 and then you can run a dual extruder if you wanted?

Improved bottom half for "The Butterfly" E3D mount

I did initially, but my school gave me the budget to use a genuine E3D Chimera rather than chinese E3D clones (which I would have done with the Butterfly mount). In the end, the school's printer is going to have to be probably more reliable than I trust Chinese E3D clones to be.

Nice! Did you make any changes to the original carriage block or did you just output the parts to STL and print exactly?

I started going down that path, modifying the parts to slide an E3D v5 hotend into that block design. It worked pretty well as a prototype, although I never printed with it. It was an alternative idea before I found that I could get a 1.75mm version of the UM2 printhead. It was an easier approach at the time and I've been pretty happy with it.

I'm building another version of this printer currently but I'm planning to use an E3D v6 hotend. I like this mount http://www.aliexpress.com/item/3D-printer-E3D-V6-all-metal-hot-end-kit-Ultimaker-2-print-head-hot-end-for/32445579908.html (which I would have to run sideways, since the X/Y axis is flipped on the UM2, as opposed to the UMO) because I think I can run these 40mm blower fans sideways easily: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZWFNV54 They're heavier than standard fans, but I could skip the big fan holder/ducting.... they also push out a lot more air, which if they play well wired in a series and on are speed-adjustable via PWM, it will be a sweet cooling situation. I print more PLA/PETG than ABS.

Sep 4, 2015 - Modified Sep 4, 2015
karlzhao314 - in reply to jasonatepaint

I actually exported the parts directly for my initial test, but for my build I'm almost certainly going to increase the thickness by 2 or 3 millimeters, Helps a lot that everything's hollow :D I might also relocate the pegs located in the middle section that are designed to keep everything straight, since they raise the entire middle section a few millimeters off the build plate and make it necessary to use supports for that entire section, and makes it hard to make that surface with whichever one it's supposed to mate with. It would be a lot easier to print if the middle had the indents and the top and bottom had the pegs.

I was originally also going to use an E3D mount, maybe the dual mount here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:159390 for dual Chinese E3Ds. But then my school gave me the budget to work with a genuine Chimera, which was nice, except that my own mount got uglier and uglier as I tried to improve structural integrity and add the excellent wire-routing that the original Ultimaker's carriage has. So I ended up deciding to use E3D's own Chimera mount and printing a carriage based on Ultimaker's own designs, which apparently wasn't necessary because their own design already worked.

Haven't looked into blower fans. I was just planning to design a fan shroud based on the original fan shroud that would fit a Chimera, but the blowers do look convenient (and easier to fit). I may give them a try.

Interesting thing that you may or may not have looked into: when I was reducing the cost of my own BOM before I realized I was way under the budget the school could allow me, by using RepRap-standard parts such as a RAMPS board instead of the UM2 board, I managed to get the vitamin cost down to $340 while theoretically preserving all operational functionality. Your design could easily become one of the low-cost standards in RepRaps :O I'm back at $560 now, but that's only because of the Chimera and the RUMBA board and all.

The Butterfly: lightweight and easy head mount for LM6UU crossbars (eg. Ultimaker)

Yeah, if you just want the drivetrain and don't care about being close to 100% original design, then it's worth the savings. I actually had an unused Rambo but wanted to build this as plug-n-play as I could. If you're comfortable editing the firmware, you could always use the UM2 OLED display... you'd just have to change the pins and what not to remap from the UM2 configuration to another boards pins/etc.

This is the fan shroud that I've been using lately on both the real UM2 and this clone. It's airflow to the bed is better directed than the original. I printed it in ABS and used layers of kapton tape along the inside areas that would be in very close contact to the heater block. They hold up pretty well... as long as you don't have a long print fail while unattended... in that case, I did have to replace one. :-D

Stuff keeps changing lol. I think now when I start my own build, I'm going to make it an extended. I can modify the design myself, but what I wanted to ask you was, do you think the printed brackets and connectors will be enough to hold the gantry steady if it's 100mm higher?

If necessary, all I'll do is overbuild it a bit with aluminum brackets and supports where I can.

Hey Karl. Another option to make the build a bit more sturdy is to use button-cap screws like this: http://cdn.instructables.com/FRA/DFY7/I5GMZIHO/FRADFY7I5GMZIHO.MEDIUM.jpg

It takes a bit more work because you have to tap each end of all extrusions w/an M5 tap. Another option, as you mentioned, is corner brackets on the corners that don't already have brackets (inside corners, etc).

Machine all built minus the hotend. The E3D mount I was going to use (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:397518) isn't setup to work with the UM2 limit switches without making adjustments. So I guess i'll modify or make my own mount.

I also like the fan mount Jason listed on Youmagine. Hopefully I can make everything play nice without wasting too many hours.

E3D V6 mount for ultimaker original
by RaiX

I was looking at using that mount at one point until I realized that the UM original has its Y-axis rod on the top... but it's flipped on the UM2. So it would mean that the fan configuration wouldn't work as the Z-axis rods would interfere.

How did you go about resolving that?

rus - in reply to lions3

Well done!
I'm also building mine and also have intention to use E3D hot end but using this mount.

Congratulation ! I almost finished mine as well ! I guess there gonna be many clones of your clone Jason !

Hey Jason are there specific 3x limit switches in your BOM (under motion) I should get? Or is this one good:


if you buy the Ultimaker bed upgrade kit listed in the BOM you'll only need 2 limit switches. The kit comes with one for the Z.

The other two are pretty simple. A standard one and another with a longer arm. Just remember if you buy them somewhere else you'll need to get those plastic connectors for the motherboard.

At the same time could you be more specific with the use of the gantry spacers. Please could you post more pictures of them. Regards

The reason my instructions only apply the the frame is mainly because UM has done a pretty good job of putting all the instructions into their assembly manual for the UM2.


Page 10 starts the process of assembly of the X/Y gantry. It will explain where all of the spacers go.

Thanks you. You are my god.

Jasonatepaint in your materials list on printhead you list a fan of 25mm25mm6mm. Where goes it mount? As I can see this fan is of 5V. Where did you connect it in the board? Please could you be specific?


That fan is used on the printhead, behind the aluminum heatsink. Check out page 50-51 of the hotend assembly to see where it goes: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/um2%20assembly%20manual%20V1.1%20_english.pdf

This 5v fan plugs into the center of the Ultimaker controller board.

Could you please advice from where you got heat bed cover for Z axis?

Aug 25, 2015 - Modified Aug 25, 2015
morfeushavana - in reply to rus

Hello Rus. I don´t have any problem to share the file. I haven´t used it yet and I do not know how will it look. I only need jasonapaint tell me(He is the only one that have the original) the distance of the the zone where the cover used to the end switch like the pìcture I attached and the correct high of the cover.
For My onw plate. I will use this modifiyng desing. It´s more easy to print for the person how print my parts and I think i will be able to adjust the end Z-swicth with a bolt.

It can divide for print in 6 parts.


Morfeushavana, thank a lot, but look like I found solution - original ultimaker2 cover and source.
It looks pretty printable.

This comment has been deleted.

The cover that is included in my build is the official wooden (stained black) that comes with the Ultimaker HotBed upgrade kit, included in the BOM.

Aug 25, 2015 - Modified Aug 25, 2015
rus - in reply to jasonatepaint

I've got it. Thank you. I spotted printed part on @morfeushavana pictures and thought I missed something but not really.

I designed my own model adjusted to my hotbed plate base. The plate base for the hotbed is not the original. I take dimensions from original and made my own without some holes.

Pd. forgive me my bad english

How many of the new Z Axis braces did you use? 1 at each corner or?

Sorry for the delay. I used 2, only at the rear extrusion that holds the lower Z-axis gantry support.... on the top side. This keeps that extrusion from wiggling if the other supports become loose.

Thanks. I'll add them to my build

Aug 21, 2015 - Modified Aug 21, 2015

Hi there!

I've been using a Micro3d printer for the last 2 months and it is a constant headache. I tried to print with the slimplify3d gcode, better but the printer is just a toy. My 2 year old daughter is very interested in it :)

It prints cats, so she is very happy.

So I decided to make a prusa i3. And then I found this.
And I will build this ultimaker.
I have the possibility to mill all the parts, that are now 3d printed, out of aerospace aluminium (2000 or 7000 series).
The rest of the parts I will probably buy, but what ever can be milled, I will cnc mill it on Mazak.
Are the A360 drawings update to the latest version?

Should I do it or its better to 3d print the parts?
In theory should be better, but you guys are the experts here.

Thank you

You could mill them...but honestly, depending on the material, it would probably just make the overall printer heavier but not any sturdier.... unless you want to stand on it. :-)

The A360 drawing is the latest. Anytime I make an update, I update the public one.

I ran into a problem. The Z axis top screw holes are blocked on the sides by the rod holding caps on the 339mm version.

I've updated the file (Gantry_Z-Axis_Top_339mm.stl) to provide space to drop the screw in from the top, and then use the hole with an L hex style wrench to push the screw into the hole and tighten.

Doh! This is sort of my fault. I updated the file but didn't print them because I was using the 13" version. The model looked like you'd have to wiggle the 10mm screw to get it in there and then tighten down with your hand until you can get a small L hex wrench in there to tighten it.

If that doesn't work, I'll modify the file to put in a cutout and then print the part and send it to you.

I noticed that my bushings don't fit over the 8mm rods. The rods are between 7.98-8.00mm and the bushings have an ID of 8mm so there obviously is not enough tolerance. I have tried sanding down the rods but the fit is just not close enough. Does anyone know where I can find slightly larger bushings? At this point I'm thinking about buying around 20 different ones from assorted eBay sellers and hoping for the best.

Hmmm. I didn't have that problem, but I used 8mm rods from my old Rostock delta printer. I cut them to size.

You're talking about the bushing in the black plastic part that the belts run thru? I bought a second set and they fit, but I am still using those same 8mm rods from the Rostock. You mentioned that you sanded your rods... Did they not have a smooth chrome finish? You definitely do not want to sand down those rods... they have to be smooth as glass.

I was playing with the fitment of my parts and realized I only had the extruded body and guide. Not the left part. I couldn't find it in the files. If I was to go with 3mm, do I need to get a full extruder printed?

The only difference in the "extruder" parts that I included is that the holes are designed for 1.75mm (4mm od bowden tube). As long as your parts have enough shells/infill, you can probably drill out the area to support a 6mm od tubing.

Sorry about that confusion. The reason I didn't include all the parts is because they are someone else's design.

Glad to hear you got your parts printed. If ya run into any issues, let me know. You can help to refine the build process :-)

Hi Jason, I too only have the extruder body and guide. You mentioned they are someone elses design, are they available? Are you able to point me in the right direction for them?

Also that is a neat filament pully / spindle below the extruder. Is that available?

D'oh, was going to finish the build this weekend but my 8mm rods are 8.1mm. So now have to wait for replacements. I have a couple very minor suggests but i'll hold off until i'm up and running. :)

thanks again for sharing this. Very excited to have it almost complete.

Oh, and i'm building this with a E3D v6 hotend. They recently came out with a PT100 heater block that works with UM2 - http://e3d-online.com/Spares/V6-PT100-Heater-Block

Aug 22, 2015 - Modified Aug 22, 2015
SpeedyDad - in reply to lions3

Thanks for the info on the heater block. I was just about to try to adapt the original one.

Just out of curiosity, which hotend mount are you going to use?

Definitely would love to hear suggestions. I'm in the process of building another one, so I was going to see where refinement could happen. I had some side brackets loosen a bit and realized that the back bottom extrusion that has the bottom Z-axis gantry bracket attached could wiggle a bit causing z-banding. I created 2 brackets to attach that extrusion to the vertical extrusions to stiffen the connections. I was planning on adding the STL and updating the instructions to include it this weekend. (No worries to anyone who had parts printed for them... once you get your printer up and running, you can print these for yourself) :-)

Also, I'm interested in seeing your E3D v6 setup. I was planning on using an E3D on this one... possibly in a direct-drive (no bowden) so I have a printer that can print flexible materials. I have some ninja flex but none of my bowden driven systems can use it.

I have made this design for my aluminum ultimaker 3D printer (cover of z-axis bearing). Maybe some one could used to.

Awesome! Add a link if you've added it to the site. ;-)

Aug 12, 2015 - Modified Aug 12, 2015

Hi is anyone willing to print the 3d part files for me? And please give me a quote-I live in Seattle, but we can set up something with paypal too. Also I'm willing to make a youtube video of my build if others are interested.

I got my parts printed through an eBay seller (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e12050.m66.l1181/7?euid=dd0762fe7e944585863a239a689d9521&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fmyworld.ebay.com%2Fcactusnwo%3FssPageName%3DADME%3AX%3ACEM%3AUS%3A1181) that prints reprap kits for $35. Will probably run you $40 because of the further shipping. Just send him a message on eBay. I should receive my parts in the morning and will update on the quality. Hope this helps, as I am very interested in the YouTube videos.

Awesome thanks a lot man! And yes please update :)

Here is a picture of some of the parts http://m.imgur.com/t4KDerx
I am very pleased with the quality. Looks like some of the holes will need to be drilled out a little, but other than that the parts are good. Would recommend.

I ordered from him, so once I get those parts I can start the build, hopefully by next weekend, I'll let you know when I post the vid.

Any progress on you build/ the video?

Hey man sorry for the late reply, I'm traveling right now, but I get back in Seattle next week and I definitely am itching to get this thing set up. I'll update you when I have it posted, should be by the end of next week.

Ordered the parts! Looking forward to trying not to mess this up.

Can you share the specs for the tap for the bowden coupling? Maybe a link to a seller? I'm curious, would the coupling actually self tap into ABS?

This comment has been deleted.

Yeah, I think it comes down to the number of printed parts required. The RepRap kits have 20-25 pieces in them. And this printer has several more parts, mainly for bolting the aluminum frame together.

Send me a private message and I'll see what I can do to help ya out.

Aug 3, 2015 - Modified Aug 3, 2015

How difficult is this to build? I am a high school student and I consider myself to be fairly good at building things like this. Experience on the robotics team has taught me things like arduino programming and soldering. Spending almost $1000 is a little scary if I'm not sure I can build the printer. I love the ultimaker design, but it is to expensive for me. I was looking into a robo 3D, but I think this is the best value.

You definitely can do it based on your robotics experience. It really comes down to patience. If you're patient and are ok with bouncing between different documentation (my build instructions, UM2 build instructions, heated bed build instructions, and all the comments in here that discuss issues other have had), it's not that difficult... It's just a matter of time (and patience). :-)

An "official" kit, with more step-by-step instructions will always be easier since all the documentation and images are in one document... but between my instructions and the official UM2 build instructions, you can glean all the info you need.

The first step will be building out the frame using the extrusions and the 3D printed parts. Once the frame is built, the majority of the work is just bolting stuff on. The UM2 instructions have excellent instructions for assembling the gantry and electronics so it's just fitting pieces of the puzzle together.

My only bit of advice is to be aware that this machine runs 24V. The PWM ports for the LEDs and cooling fans are easily shorted out if you plug a 12v device into them. The cooling fans are actually 12v (but run in series to spread the power between 2x12v fans).

If you have more questions, feel free to ask. Always excited to get others interested in 3D printing.

Hello Jasonatepaint,

I really like your design.
I want to build the Ultimaker 2 Aluminium Extrusion 3D printer but I dont have a 3D printer and I dont know were I can get the 3D printed parts.
Can you tell me that? :)

With regards,


Just wondering how much the Z dimensions would be to make this the same as the Ultimaker Extended for the extruded frame pieces, Z threaded rod and the Z-axis rods?

Alright to answer my own question the Z-axis rods are exactly 100mm longer, 439mm x 12mm VS 339mm x 12mm, and the Z-axis stepper threaded rod is 400mm VS 300mm. I'm gonna guess and say it safe to say if you add 100mm to the extruded frame you'll have an Ultimaker Extended, minus software changes.

Yeah, just the Z-axis rods and longer lead screw.... as far as hardware goes.

Depending on if you use the UM2 heated bed, you'll also need to extend the hook-up wires so they reach the mainboard.

You could use the UM2 firmware and just adjust the Z height.... I haven't checked the firmware for the Extended, so I'm not sure if there are any other changes to the firmware besides physical attributes of the machine(s).

so looking into this a little more, the build volume extends 100mm, extended is 305mm Z-axis, and the original UM2 is 205mm. I wonder if just adding that extra 100mm to the physical build materials would be accurate. I hear ya on the firmware changes. Gonna keep digging.

Hey NitroTech
How did yo go with your digging? thought I'd ask before getting the shovel out myself....

I'm also interested in increasing the build volume. I know there has been lots of mention in the comments above about doing this but doesn't sound like any concrete info.

Any help is much appreciated!

Spoos made a remix and gave the dimensions for the UM2 Extended version. He has the acrylic panels as well. My MADE version is a UM2 Extended size. My Z on the software side is defined at 315

thanks so much!
for anyone interested:
UM2 Extended

Ultimaker 2 Extended Aluminum Extrusion 3D Printer
by spoos

Im also interested

Jul 26, 2015 - Modified Jul 26, 2015

Hello guys. I would like to someone please help me to get the stl files to print this parts. What do you recomend?? Print the parts marked with 2 and 3, or buy it all ? Thanks you very much in advance.




Both of those parts are injection molded. They're rather thin parts that would be hard to print to have the same strength. There are non-official alternatives that you can look for on here... but why? You'd still have to buy the copper sintered bushings that are on the inside of the block AND contend with getting the belt and tension spring to play nicely. You can get the injection molded parts and bushing (4x) for less than $25.

Hey did anyone who bought the Misumi M3 Hammerhead nuts have any reviews for them. I bought the nuts off of Alibaba and they tilt extremely easily and cause the screws to go in at a slant and not travel through the threads perfectly. In other words they are sorta of a pain in the ass to use and I'm thinking about buying the Misumi ones but would like to hear reviews of them first.

The quality of the Misumi is better... but not sure if worth 4x the cost. The sizes are near identical (at least the alibaba ones I bought).

Have you tried to thread each of the nuts with an M3 screw to make sure the threads aren't bad on the nut? I had quite a few that were tapped poorly and the screw wouldn't thread without force. So that's where quality is an issue for me. Once bolted w/locktite, they both function the same way.

Thanks, that seemed to be the problem. I guess I just have to quality check each one which is what one should expect at for the price.

I can't found STL file for legs.

I'm not sure I understand what you're asking for. All of the brackets (top, bottom, sides) are all there. If you mean the Aluminum Extrusions (which are not printed), there are links in the BOM which point you to the correct lengths.

I mean stl for this detail: https://goo.gl/b6lUE6

Pretty sure that's just a rubber foot. You can buy that anywhere - take a look at Walmart or Home Depot.

I found them on Aliexpress http://goo.gl/LriCcb
Thank you.

Hello Jasontepaint. Once more wonderfull work. Could you tell me where I can get the firmware?

Hello. Thanks you for share this wonderfull work. I have a question? In your materials list you set a link for the prinhead coolers. But in that link the coolers are of 12Volts and where I can see in the link to buy the mainboard, the conectors for this coolers are of 19-24 Volts.
Please, could you anwser me?.

Thanks you and forgive me my bad english. Regards.

Check out page 54 and 55 of the Ultimaker 2 Assembly Manual: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/um2%20assembly%20manual%20V1.1%20_english.pdf

You'll wire those fans in a series, so that they are sharing the 24v.... the first fan consuming 12v and then passing on the remaining 12v. It doesn't actually work out perfectly that they use 12v each, but it comes close.

What build area does this printer have compared to the one it's based on? Any different?

It's the exact same build area. No difference at all.

Any chance you can share the floor.cdr file in another format? I wasn't able to open it in Illustrator or Inkscape. Maybe an EPS or AI file?

I've added .EPS and .DXF exports. I'm not sure how well the EPS will work (as far as keeping it's original size), but I know the DXF will work as its explicitly exported as millimeters.

thanks! I was able to open both files. Full sheet version says it's 307.724 mm X 338.621 mm? I've got a sheet of white frosted acrylic on order just for this. Luckily I have access to a 18x24 laser cutter. So I should be able to do it as one sheet.

One question. What are those 3 holes in the front half sheet? Anything I need to add back to the full sheet version?

Yeah, close enough. :-) If I select only the single (full) object, it's 307.8 mm x 338.705.

Those extra holes, at the front of the floor, are to screw the floor into the OLED bracket, which acts as the base for the floor to lay on. They are ovals so you have some play in the placement. The idea is that you slip the floor into the T-slot of the extrusions at the back of the printer, then sliding it forward to align to the bracket holes. The center hole is so you can add a screw w/a handle... to make it easier to remove. None of them are necessary. As it turns out, I haven't bothered to bolt it down... I would use them if I were to travel w/the printer.

I recently added a 40mm fan that I attached to the bottom side of the floor, over the mainboard (focused on the motor drivers) to keep things cool(er). Since I didn't want to re-cut the floor, I manually drilled 4 holes in a position over the motor drivers and used spacers between the floor and fan to allow for proper airflow. Just mentioned it so you can decide if you want to add it to your design before you cut it.

Jul 28, 2015 - Modified Jul 28, 2015
hugsy - in reply to jasonatepaint

Hi Jason, what power source did you use for this extra fan (the original UM2 doesn't seem to have a motherboard cooling but I'd like to add one as well because I heard that the drivers get hot easily...)

There are two "accessory" 24V outputs on the UM2 board. One of them is at the corner between the relay and power inlet. The other is at the back of the board and is labeled "Fan 19-24v".

Jul 2, 2015 - Modified Jul 2, 2015

How extrusions are connected? Only using printed parts?

Yes they are. It's rock solid. You could also use the suggestions from user "misan" in the comments. Search the comments for "L joints".

Check out the build instructions (under Instructions tab) for details on how the parts are held together.

The BOM has been updated to reflect the cheaper post-assembly nuts via China and deprecated the Misumi nuts. This was purely done to lower the cost of the build. The cost for these nuts when from $56 to $11 (excluding shipping). That's $45 that can be spent on some new filament! ;-)