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Ultimaker 2 Aluminum Extrusion 3D printer

by jasonatepaint, published

Ultimaker 2 Aluminum Extrusion 3D printer by jasonatepaint May 17, 2015

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Summary

https://www.youtube.com/embed/TDfLqazCupo

This is not The Greatest UM2 Clone, no.
This is just a tribute.

This project began as a fun way to learn AutoDesk Fusion 360. I started by importing the entire Solidworks CAD file into a new Fusion 360 project, dropped the frame (walls) from the printer, built 20x20 Misumi aluminum extrusions to wrap the printer guts and then worked to build brackets to support all the parts that previously attached to the frame.

I've been printing nonstop on this new printer with the same precision and quality as my real UM2. In fact, I can use the same GCODE in either machine with identical results.

A360 Source Download Link - Use this link to download a copy of the source (in your CAD flavor).

Instructions

Bill of Materials - This list provides 99% of the parts you'll need.

Build Instructions - A supplement to the official UM2 assembly guide to address instructions specific to this printer.

All parts were printed in PLA, in Cura, using 3 shells w/20% infill.

I am running both the official and aluminum extrusion Ultimaker's with 1.75mm filament. Ultimately it'll be up to you to decide what filament gauge you want to use. Often it comes down to what filament you already have in bulk. :-) For that reason, I haven't included the parts to complete the hotend/extruder in the BOM. If you choose to go with the default 3mm setup, you can acquire the parts thru one the the sellers in the BOM. If you choose to use 1.75, I have included some additional parts to print and more info in the build instructions. In either case, the knurled drive gear in the BOM will work for both filament sizes.

Buying Parts

The prices in the BOM are most likely out of date. Use the links in the BOM to find the parts. I had good experiences with all of the sellers I dealt with and found the parts to be close-to if not identical to official parts. This includes the 1.75mm version of the UM2 nozzle/heatblock.

The BOM has a breakdown to buy all the parts to build the Z-axis platform/heated bed or to buy the official UM2 heated bed kit (which is actually intended for the UMO+). The cost of getting the kit is only $15 more when you calculate the PSU and lead screw Z-axis motor. There's also a small electronics board which acts as a relay for powering the heaterboard with the 24PSU and outputing 19V for the UMO. It's not needed, but an added bonus for a future project. :-) The kit is going to be easier... but it depends on how patient and adventurous you are.

Floor of the Printer

My printer is using 1/4" acrylic that I bought from Lowes and cut on a 20x12 laser cutter. I sanded the underside to create a frosted look. I would have cut it as a single piece but the laser cutter was just a tad too small. This is why it's 2 pieces joined with 3D printed connectors and screws. I have included the CorelDraw file and the floor connectors.

Update 1

  • Updated all Gantry parts to adjust tolerances for bearing fitment. After assembling another printer, I've found that they needed a .1mm increase.
  • Updated Y-Axis Motor Mount to allow for room of the belt.
  • Updated X-Axis Motor Mount to allow for screw space

New files all have _v2 prefix. Deprecated files were moved to a file called "deprecated_v1.zip.

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Jason,
My build is almost finished. Hey what is supposed to contact the z axis limit switch?

Assuming you have the official ultimaker bed assembly, get a M3 screw that you have leftover, I used a 30mm I believe. Using two M3 nuts, put the screw through the matching hole at the back of the bed plate and adjust the nuts until you get the right length of the screw to make contact with the limit switch. Good luck!

The hole in my build plate is way off from the location of the switch. I would have to either 1. add standoffs to switch and drill hole in acrylic floor for contact screw (not ideal) or 2. drill a new hole in the build plate. I think ill just drill a hole in the plate. lol

The problem here is that they changed the mounting holes on the aluminum platform so it could be generically used in all UM2 flavors (extended, regular, go, etc). The previous version had the correct hole.

I got one of the newer platform and just extended the slot in my acrylic floor to allow contact.

Ok thank you for the reply. I'm coming from a Prusa i3 so I'm trying to double check everything before I run it. I was looking at those two extra holes located at the back of build plate. So what stops the plate from crashing into the nozzle?

On first start up the bed plate will travel up towards the nozzle, but will stop about 2 inches away from it. It's a programmed distance. Will then have to follow the bed leveling steps to adjust this.

Thanks Scott! You've gotten in there quickly to help others a few times now. I appreciate it! :-)

Is there something that explains how to install the firmware to the UM2 Board? I'm Newish to this stuff and i'm not quite sure how to do that.

Last page of the documentation gives some high-level instructions... but may require you do a bit more googling.

Ok. You don't know of any videos to help out with it? I sort of understand what its asking but I just want to be completely sure.

So why are there 2 different part files for the Z gantry? One marked 339mm and the other same object?

What? You don't want to read thru hundreds of comments to find the answer? :-p

So the deal with the 2 versions is that when I originally designed this printer, I bought 13-inch 12mm rods from a reputable seller. 13 inches is 330.2mm. So about a 9mm difference. So the 339mm version is the official size used in the UM2. Lots of sellers sell this exact size. So I provided both versions.

Also, be aware of cheap linear rods. If the whole package of rods seems like a cheap/good price.... it probably isn't great quality as far as tolerances go. If you give a good scroll thru the comments you'll see varied results with the Chinese rod kits. It's the entire motion system of the printer... so put a good portion of your budget towards rods. If this is your first build, I hope this saves ya some headaches. :-)

Anyone have directdrive dual extruder parts? Or it is possible? Rg.

Anything that would fit in an UM2, it would fit in this. So there should be options out there... just look for UM2 dual extrusion.

Ok. Thanks for answer. I've another question. Do you think can i use 8mm rod instead of 12mm for z axis?
I'll use this for heatbed rods. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:673801
But it use lm8uu. Do you think 8mm rod is a problem? Or i have to edit that think for lm12uu? RG.

Duplicator_heating_bed_with_Arms
by Psyqjo

The bed plate, plus heater, glass, etc.... is heavy. The reason it's 12mm is because of the need to support all that weight w/o flexing. Could you do it with 8mm? Sure...but I'd hesitate. You'd also need a way to mount those linear bearing to the bed if you went with 8mm.

My printer started to fail prints..
The thin smooth rods move in place.
I had to put rubber bands so they won't move, but soon enough the rubber bands also failed.

What might be the cause for this?

Any more details? Or a video of the issue? Hard to say. Those 6mm rods require a bit of finesse in snapping them into place. It's important to rock the slider blocks so that they are completely upright and aligned with the rod. If you snap them in and the blocks are slightly angled, they will break free during movement.

Hold the 6mm rod in place while you turn the block so that it's completely upright and then snap them into place.

My 6mm rods slide right in. No tightness whatsoever.
I saw this thing: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-xy-bushing-slider-block
I think this will hold them tight. Or will it cause other problems?
I guess I'll have to check

Are the rods moving off of the slider blocks? Is that your problem

I wonder what the variance is on these. The ones I bought were from eBay and haven't had any issues. They are finicky but once they're popped in, they're pretty secure.

Where did you buy yours? Was it from the same seller as in the BOM?

ANOTHER thing to check is to use a pair of calipers and check the diameter of the 6mm rods. Obviously they should be 6mm. But if the tolerance is too great (smaller, it seems), you will have this issue of them not snapping in place.

The 2 biggest issues I've seen with other builders is cheap linear rods, both the 6mm and 8mm. I took the harder route on my builds. I had multiple 1 meter 8mm rods from an old Delta (Rostock) and cut them to size. They were very high quality rods that I had spent decent chunk of change on. Additionally, I did the same thing with the 6mm rods, cutting them to size.

I regret linking to those linear rod kits because it appears that the variance, from buyer-to-buyer is way out of spec.

Sep 16, 2016 - Modified Sep 16, 2016
3dyuval - in reply to jasonatepaint

That is really useful information.

I just bought a low quality slider blocks I guess.
Maybe printing them would solve this.
I will try the Slider Block Clip soon and see that solves this.

I'm guessing my rods are in poor quality as well.
The 8mm rods are actually no so straight, making the first layer vary in height, probably doing more havoc later in the print quality...

maybe you could try something like this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1643315

Slider Block Clip

Jason,
My build is coming right along. Hey what size m3 screw did you use for mounting extruder motor to its mount plate? The m3x30 are not working for me there. Also, what are the (6) m2.5x16 screws for in the BOM?

Man, it's been a while since I built my machines... so I don't remember exactly. I sort of have to trust the BOM/instructions. :-p So I can't say for sure. Are you using the extruder (from a YouMagine User) that I listed? I think I left it to the user to use that extruder's BOM for parts.

The 6x m2.5 screws are for the 3 limit switches. You can drill out the holes on the switches to make 3mm screws work... It's just easier to use 2.5mm, since they fit.

I just received my UM2 main board and controller today. The OLED screen is broken.... bummer

Hey Mike,

Did you ever get this resolved w/the seller? I had issues with one of the display boards and got it resolved w/the reseller... just takes patience and time. When I finally received the new one, it was perfect.

Hey Jason,
The seller sent me a new LCD. It should arrive in a day or so. I just received the smooth rods and just looking at them they seem fine. when I installed them though, 3 of the 8mm rods have a slight wobble when I spin them in the bearings. The seller said if I send him a picture, he will replace them. The only problem is you cannot see anything when they are just sitting there. The rest of the rods are actually really straight . The ends are ground a little funky but usable. All in all, I'm not terribly worried. I'm probably just going to buy new 8mm rods from Misumi. They ship amazingly fast, like 4 days. It's not that much more money either.

Hey Jason,
I've started assembly and I have one issue. When I tighten my pre-assembly nuts all the way down on the sides top brackets, the piece can still move around. The small raised piece on the printed bracket (that sits in the extrusion) is preventing the nut from making a snug fit. I purchased some pre-assembly nuts from a different source. They work on all the other parts.

Hmmm.... are you finding the raised portion to be too tall? Meaning that when you tighten down the part, the raised portion is hitting the pre-assembly nut, not allowing the bracket to fit snuggly with the extrusion?

I would sand down the raised portion if this is the case so that it allows the part to sit fully flat against the extrusion.

The only other variables would be the brand/dimensions of the extrusions you used (if not Misumi), the pre-assembly nuts, and the printed parts themselves...

Let me know if you remain stuck.

Hey one more thing Jason, do you know of a reliable source (in US) that will cut the acrylic side pieces and floor? I don't have access to any sort of cutting machine. I have future plans for a CNC router, but one thing at a time.

Thanks

Mike

Hey Mike,

I'm not Jason, but I've made a couple of these printers (see the makes) using the Irishbeard enclosure panels as well as Jason's panels and have nothing but love for these guys: https://www.pololu.com/product/749

Good price, lots of colors and styles, arrives in just a few days with impeccable packaging. Can't recommend them highly enough.

Hey thanks for the reply. So I found one guy that will quote me and I sent him the .EPS files however, he said he can only open .DXF format. If Pololu will cut them without me needing to convert the files I will certainly go with them. I personally don't want the graphic on the side panels. So how would I go about getting the files I need? Do you by chance have the enclosure files in .DXF format with no graphic? BTW, awesome printers bro. You did an amazing job. It doesn't look like you have the graphic either? I can't wait to upload pics of mine. So far I have the frame assembled and I'm just waiting on the main board an smooth rods.

Sep 7, 2016 - Modified Sep 7, 2016
rbnh00d222 - in reply to Mike28

I have the .DXF files that I used for the latest white printer. I edited the files to delete the graphic. I also modified it to flip the door to hinge on the other side since I'm right handed. I don't want to step on Irishbeard's toes though, so I'll put the link to my dropbox file here now and delete it tomorrow.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5ddhm2jh5q7p2t6/UM_Case_Laser_Cutting_Files.zip?dl=0

EDIT: Oops! I keep crediting Irishbeard for the enclosure, when in fact it's by lions3! Irishbeard made the hinges and knob as well as a top enclosure which I also have for both printers but hardly ever use.

How much did one set of the acrylic pieces cost roughly? I'm right handed also too so thanks. I'm fairly new to the 3D printing scene. I have a Prusa i3 clone that I've spent the last three months dialing in. I'm hoping I will see some improvements when switching to this UM2 clone. lol this thing cost 3x as much as the Prusa i3. I'm getting really nice prints now with it, I just can't print fast.

I don't remember what the Pololu cost was, I suggest just getting a quote.

What I meant to say was, is the top enclosure necessary when printing ABS?

I print ABS just fine without the top enclosure. I haven't really even noticed a difference with or without it.

Got it, Thank you. Did you bother with the top piece at all? The files are named with a color, is that just for Pololu reference?

I do have the top enclosure, but I don't use it. The colors are just for my reference so I made sure to order the right ones.

That's pretty much what I ended up doing. The t-nuts I bought were roughly $20 for 100 on Amazon. They fit really nice but they must have a slightly different profile. Plus I'm thinking Slic3r had something to do with the printed parts being slightly out of spec. Hey I have to say this frame is really solid when assembled. I will post some pics when I'm finished. I'm still waiting on the electronics from overseas. I ended up buying 100 pieces of every needed bolt / nut. It only cost me about $6 per 100. I use a lot of the sizes on various projects. I ordered the smooth rods through the recommended vendor and I'm hoping they're straight. Thanks again.

can i use any parts off of my ultimaker original for this?

The motors, limit switches, pulleys and belts (if they're GT2)... but I think most of the gantry linear rods are not the same length.

You'd need to do a comparison of parts against the BOM.

Aug 28, 2016 - Modified Aug 28, 2016

At what speed can you print this and still get good quality print compared to the real UM2. Also there is UM2 clone on aliexpress that is cheaper than this build price.

Will this build print better and faster than the clones from aliexpress?

I have no idea on the clones on aliexpress.... as far as "better and faster" than the real UM2, they are comparable. With any "kit/self-built" machine, it comes down to how well it was put together and calibrated. I have a real UM2 and they both print identical. This took time to calibrate every aspect of both machines.

Don't get swayed by the hype of 100mm/s+ printing speeds.... Any decent printer can move at 100mm/s+, but plastic can only be extruded so quickly and even if you can extrude at those speeds, your next battle is the thermal dynamics of the plastic. It can only cool so quickly. Printing on top of a previous layer that hasn't had enough cooling time will produce bad prints.

Hope that sheds some light...

Jason-
I ordered the parts on the BOM from RobotDigg. When it comes to the stepper motors I noticed the BOM shows two 40mm varieties. 0.9degree and 1.8degree. I ordered them both but the 0.9 is a 48mm not 40mm. Will this work?

The 1.8 motors are for X&Y. The UM2 extruder uses a .9degree motor. The 48mm will be fine as the extruder setup has the extruder motor on the back, with the length won't affect gantry movement.

I want to print PETG filament with this. Can it be done and can someone tell me what I need to buy/do to make it possible with this printer?

Machine is ready for it. I print at 240/245 and 80 on the bed.

Also, depending on the part, I use a glue stick on the bed (same for ABS)

Aug 16, 2016 - Modified Aug 16, 2016

Hi there,

I'm almost done with the printer.

Im using a smothieboard and I can not get a proper setup for the simplify3d. I can get a *.fff that will work. Can anybody share one with me?

Thank you very much

If your firmware is setup correctly (as far as pins/configuration), you should not need a special one. The UM2 config that's built into S3D works. What problems are you having?

Aug 16, 2016 - Modified Aug 16, 2016
TheUnderDog - in reply to jasonatepaint

I.m using smoothieboard and the simplify 3d. Not the ultimaker board. I was hoping somebody is using the smoothieboard and could help me. If I try to print anything the z is homing and not raising up to the max level next to the head

Well the point I'm making is that once a machine is configured correctly, any GCode that is supposed to move the machine up/down/left/right/backwards/forwards will do the same thing on any machine.

If you set up the board's configs the same as UM2, you should be OK. I think the issue is that the "machine settings" for UM2 in S3D is conflicting w/your configuration. Things to check: look at motor direction settings/etc in S3D for your machine config.

Ok, almost done with my build and I have run into what I believe to be a firmware issue, but am not 100% sure how to fix it. Printer is built and Matlin firmware is installed. The main problem is that when doing the initial bed leveling wizard, the print head moves to the front center of the bed instead of the back center. From videos I have watched the first part of the leveling process, the print head moves close to the back leveling screw. From what I figure, this is a problem with the firmware configuration. Any suggestions would help. Thank you in advance.

Yeah, so you have your Y motors backwards. The most simplest way to resolve this is to simply flip the plug, so if the colors were (RGBW) they would now be (WBGR) viewing the plug from the same angle. The problem is that the UM2 mainboard uses plugs that can't just be flipped. So instead of doing that, you just have to go into the firmware Configuration.h and find this:

#define INVERT_Y_DIR false (or true)

And flip it. Re-upload and things should be OK.

Aug 14, 2016 - Modified Aug 14, 2016
Sarchopilus - in reply to jasonatepaint

Ok so I changed #define INVERT_Y_DIR false to #define INVERT_Y_DIR true. When I did that upon starting the bed leveling the print head started moving to the front of the printer and spazzed out there because it couldn't find the limit switch. to fix that I had to change #define Y_HOME_DIR 1 to #define Y_HOME_DIR -1. Now everything seems to be in the correct orientation but it is not moving to the front of the print bed after doing the back adjustment location. I checked the bed size and it is showing #define X_MAX_POS 230 #define X_MIN_POS 0 #define Y_MAX_POS 224.5 #define Y_MIN_POS 0 #define Z_MAX_POS 230 #define Z_MIN_POS 0 (sorry not sure how to do the format you did jason. Here is a short video of how it is work now. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5dWxwAUym7A&feature=youtu.be

It looks like the homing is correct, going to the back left corner, hitting both X/Y limit switches. You are correct that the Y_HOME_DIR is reversed. I made the assumption you took the settings from the UM2 Marlin Configuration.

I would go download the UM2 Marlin firmware from their github and check your motor/direction settings match.

Oh. I may have mixed you up w/someone else... but thought you were using the stock Marlin firmware and adjusting to run against UM setup.

The issues could be a mix of motors wired backwards, configs w/ flipped settings, etc.... Here's what I would do.... Connect to the printer w/Repetier/Simplify3D/etc so that you can control the printer.

  • Home the Printer
  • Use software to move the printer. Make sure you can move forward/backwards/left/right....

If all that works as expected, then move on to determine the issue around bed leveling. I'm curious if you're able to move the head forward to the front of the printer after homing.

Ok. Thanks for the help. I will try that out and let you know what happens.

This comment has been deleted.

Any issues with grounding or static or did you somehow ground the frame as well as the electronics?

No active grounding by wire. The 24v power adapter is grounded. The other end runs 2 pairs of 24v leads to a 4-pin connector, which plugs in directly to the mainboard. The mainboard is shielded by a 3d mount so it doesn't touch the extrusions. Rubber feet on the bottom.

I haven't had any issues. I'm not sure if you're more concerned with USB comm issues... if that's the case, I wouldn't be able to say, as I always print from SD card.

HTH

Does any one know what is the build volume of this printer?

It's the same as the original UM2

OK. I am about 2 steps away from having this thing completely done. I am running into 1 problem that hopefully someone can help with. During the initial setup (where it levels your bed) The Z axis works fine, but the X&Y axis doesn't move. They just kind of shake back and forth like something is preventing them from moving. With everything turned off the X&Y move freely and seem to do it pretty smooth, but during the setup the motors just kind of spaz out. Any Ideas? I have check to make sure that everything is lined up correctly and that there isn't anything grinding or rubbing from what I can see.

Sounds like a wiring or driver issue.

Make sure the wire-pairs (4 wires in 2 pairs) are correct. Also make sure the voltage on the drivers isn't too high (or low).

I don't remember if you mentioned what board you're using, but if you customized something to work with the um2 Marlin firmware, you might have not set some pins correctly.

Hope that helps.

Thank you Jason. That did help. One wire of one motor can slightly loose, not even noticeable by the naked eye. It wasn't until I tried moving the wires around a bit that it fell out enough to notice. (Face Palm)

Never mind I figured it out! Thanks. I have to say I cant wait to get this thing going. I don't own an Ultimaker, I'm printing all the parts via my Prusa i3. I'm still learning but my prints have really improved. Thanks for sharing your awesome creation jason.

Mike

So there are a lot of comments here and I may have missed someone asking the same question, so if I did I do apologize. I have my printer fully assembled in what I believe to be working order. I am currently trying to install Marlin per these instructions http://reprap.org/wiki/Marlin#Configuring_and_compilation. When I click the upload at the end it says that there was an error while uploading the sketch. Any advice would be appreciated. Also when first powering on my printer the bed and print head both start heating up and the xy axis start moving in small increments like its printing something. Did anyone else have this happen?

possible you need to alter your Arduino settings. Look at my instructions. It has a section for fixing this.

I did manage to get it to work by changing the Arduino settings. Thank you for your help.

Hey guys, I'm in the process of printing all the parts for a 1.75mm setup. I'm not seeing everything needed for the extruder, or am I missing something? I've printed the filament guide and extruder body but I'm missing the tension arm.

Thanks,

Mike

Check out the instructions. There are links to the other extruder parts.

Where can i get the cover for the buidltable?

It comes w/the heated bed kit. You can find a user-created one on thingiverse... or laser-cut your own... the file is in Ultimaker's github.

Jul 24, 2016 - Modified Jul 24, 2016

Did you try to setup this printer using regular Marlin, not Ultimaker2Marlin? I want to implement bed autoleveling using square proximity sensor from Omron and i wonder if it buildable.

You can. Just need to know how to change configurations.

I know how to change configurations of course, but one thing confuses me much, and i still searching for an answer. There are 3 kinds of UM boards in Boards.h and which one is for UM2 board. And display also is a question.

Hey man, had a busy week and forgot to circle around to your reply. If you're using the board from the BOM, you'll want to use this one:

#define BOARD_ULTIMAIN_2        72

HTH

This comment has been deleted.

Is it normal that the stepper motors are getting hot ?
This is my first time making a 3d printen so i don't know this

Thank you

Yeah, they'll get pretty hot. So this is normal... to a point. They can get TOO hot and then you'll start experiencing missed steps on the motor.

If you're using the Ultimaker mainboard (as opposed to a RAMPS-type board), you can adjust the milliamps for each stepper (X,Y,Z,E) via software (either thru the LED controller or thru a computer connection sending G-code commands).

The default for UM2 is 1300ma for X, Y, & Z. Depending on the motors you chose, you may need to turn this down. 1300ma is the max value. This drives the motors harder hence more heat. I run my UM2 clones at 1300 with the motors in the BOM.

Jul 19, 2016 - Modified Jul 21, 2016
steal45 - in reply to jasonatepaint

Oke its done en it works thank you

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2ZXjh9lxvY

What are the materials used for the production of, and you can use other materials and what I can change the parts inside the printer to be able to use other materials

and How much production volume

If I want to make this printer with a differente bed size (200x300 or 300x300), how can I calculate the correct endless belt size?

Thank you!

hi
i need some help for UM2 Aluminium Base Plate

do you have any cad file for this part ???

But now is everything fine. watch my website for 3d print service

Www.3dprintshape.nl

I can advise you.. don't buy Electronic parts from aliexpres. My mainboard crashes 3 times so spende 3x 100 Euro in board then my ultiboard crashes and then the display.. i got original now. No more problems.. original board is 355 Euro.. its expensive. But it saves you money

The boards you buy from AliExpress are the same boards. They are ALL made in China. The problem comes down to quality control. I had a bad display controller during the build of my second printer. I contacted the seller, provided some video of what was happening. I shipped it back (Yeah, it cost me $14).... but after they received it, they sent out a replacement for free. It came down to having to wait...

I have been printing with the AliExpress bought boards since I built these printers (several months to a year) without any issues.

It can be frustrating to deal w/RMA issues with communication boundaries, waiting for overseas shipments, etc.... but if you're patient, all have been very receptive to fixing issues when you bring it up w/them.

my bad board got rejected at china customs sent back to my bought from global warehouse they have bad customer service no refund

I actually bought one of those when I was experimenting with different ideas for mounting an E3D. The quality of the aluminum mount was great... but the E3D clone wasn't anywhere near the quality of an official E3D.

The issue I found w/the mount was that it's really designed for the UM, not the UM2. The UM's X/Y gantry is flipped from the UM2, so you have to mount it sideways. This means the fan mounts for the left/right cooling fans actually have to mount towards the front/back...and there isn't room for that on the back side w/the Z-motor/lead screw.

So I'd be curious how you mounted cooling fans :-) I ultimately mounted the E3D with my direct-drive design.

I have a couple of questions about robotdigg:

I've bought bearings, motors, belts, etc from there w/o issue. The only weird thing is the way you pay (unless they changed it).... you essentially add things to your cart, get a total, and then email them to arrange payment. They were responsive in emails and things shipped w/o issue.

The UM2 board is going to be the same hardware regardless of where you buy it from. It just comes down to quality control (e.g. Hopefully they test the board before they sent it to you).

hey guys sorry for all the questions, mostly got it built now :)!

having a small issue with the z axis limit switch though, with the bed all the way down and a m3x20mm screw, won't activate the switch! do i need to put a longer one in or have i done something wrong?

Scrap that! Had a moment of madness last night (beer was involved) I'd put an m3 X 18 in lol

The bed when activated though is near on flush with the extrusion is that correct?

Yes. The bottom aluminum plate will sit roughly flush with the extrusion. Ultimaker modified their bed platform so that it works with their full line of UM2 versions now, so some of the screw holes were moved/changed.... So, for instance, on my last build, I had to be a futzing with the screw length and offset to get it to align with the limit switch. I did this by putting the screw in upside down so the wider head touched the limit switch, allowing for it to be offset a tad.

Hi!
I'm having this weird dragging sound on non-print movements. Does anyone knows what can cause this? It happens only when printing, but doesn't when moving one axis at a time. Also, it doesn't happen when I move the printing head with my hands diagonally. I tried lowering the max acceleration from 9000 to 8000, that didn't help. It doesn't skips steps or anything, it actually prints pretty great! Any experience with this? Just to show you, I uploaded a video- https://youtu.be/o8iA-LXacGk it happens when moving from the right Marvin to the middle on 1:02

Okay I think I resolved this issue, it was probably misaligned pulley dragging on the belt.

Hey, glad you found it. Things sound pretty quiet outside of that clunk. :-)

Curious tho... why printing on glass w/painter's tape? Assuming that is PLA, just heat the bed to 60 and PLA sticks great. After the bed cools, the object pop right off w/a nice glassy finish on the bottom.

With PETG and ABS, I use an elmer's glue stick at 80c, 100c respectively.

Which firmware do you use? can i have a link? Because i use Ultimaker2Marlin and the extruder motor is reversed. PLEASE HELP ME :(

Hey Xander.... so the issue is very easily resolved in the firmware. Depending on the axis, you will change one of these values:

#define INVERT_X_DIR
#define INVERT_Y_DIR
#define INVERT_Z_DIR

If they are set to TRUE, change it to FALSE and vice versa. The setting is dependent upon how the 4 motor wires are connected. So you connected them backwards... but it doesn't matter... just change the true/false value and re-upload the firmware.

You can upload here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin

Also, read the last page of my google docs instructions... it explains what ya need to upload the firmware.

Jun 4, 2016 - Modified Jun 4, 2016

For the love of everything holy, DO NOT order your parts through Misumi. They are EXTREMELY business oriented and buying as an individual consumer is an AWFUL experience. Shipping fees are incredibly steep if you're hoping to receive your parts in a reasonable amount of time. These fees are not presented to you as a new customer. Misumi's excuse, "well we only show those fees to someone who has an account with us". I ended up paying $80 in shipping fees for an $11 set of beams.

But there is good news. I found an alternative in a company called OpenBuilds. They're focused on hobbyists and have everything you need at reasonable prices. After ordering from Misumi, I felt like an idiot when I found OpenBuilds. And here's the worst (or best) part... their product is actually BETTER than what I got from Misumi. So let this be a cautionary tale to future builders. Check out OpenBuilds.com and openbuildspartstore.com before you decide to build this. I'm not getting a commission and I don't work for them, I just think they're awesome.

Misaim may not be the lowest cost but I found them to have high quality and accuracy. My linear bearings were exact and strong where the alixexprss versions have bent already...

Your best bet is to get the full kit.. will save you $ in the end unless your looking to hack.. which is part of the fun...

When you order from china direct, always get extras since well, you get what you pay for. :)

What country are you in? Misumi USA has been very fast/cheap. I have made 4 separate orders over the last couple years, shipping both to my work and home and have had no issues.

The extrusions for this printer cost about $30 and another $10 to ship to Texas. If openbuilds works for ya, great.... but the experience from one country may not be the same for others. I have no relation to Misumi USA, but my experiences have been nothing but great and very reasonably priced.

hey guys anyone in UK found a motor set for this yet? i am struggling massively to find any motors at all and don't want to put something in that'll eventually cook the board.

luke

I bought my motors (about 6 in total) at RobotDig and have had no issues. I'm not promoting this site, just stating a fact that "cheap motors" are rarely the issue in burn-outs on boards... usually "User Error" :-) And sometimes bad/cheap electronics (drivers).

thanks bud i managed to source out a set of OEM UM2 motors randomly last night in my search, bit steep on pricing but after my velleman vertex (FYI: never buy one of those!) i was fed up with stepper drivers going bang and the machine being OOO instead of running due to cheap parts!

my build is coming together like a dream jasonatepaint! i still cannot thank you enough for the design! when i found this i was discussing with my partner about buying a UM2 outright, but this has saved me a lot of £££! when its complete ill get it posted up!

Why would you cook the motherboard? I don't understand your comment.

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For those how have built this, have you had problems with the fans from the motherboard. I have tried two separate boards and multiple fans and the cooling fans just won't work. Could someone post pics or something of wiring or maybe some advice?

A couple things....

  • The PSU is supplying 24v.
  • The Fans are 12V, wired in series (to split the 24v and divides it among both fan)
  • The PWM circuit is VERY delicate. If you wrongly wire 12V fans in parallel, you will kill the PWM circuit.
  • Not all fans are created equal. Cheap fans will not work properly.

The BOM has fans that are listed for each part. Don't cheap out on fans... yes, good ones are expensive...but they work and will limit your frustrations. I've found that cheaper fans will not properly split the voltage, causing one fan to run at 14v+ and the other only at 6v+, causing one fan to spin faster and the other to not spin at all... Also, cheaper fans don't seem to work well w/PWM... so you never have 0-100% spin control on the fan.

Hope that helps.

Hi, that board output says Fan 5V. Which I connected my 5V fans to this output, not getting them to work, I mistakenly connected them to the PWM fan output. Some smoke came out of them and now I can see a resistor called R43 burned. Any chance you can spread light on what should I do, as the information is not quite clear.

If you are comfortable with soldering, that's a pretty easy fix.

Sorry for the delay. I think when I heard "fans" (plural), that you were referring to the dual 12v fans that are used to cool the object being printed. The single 5v 25mm fan (for the stock setup) is definitely 5v and is connected to the center of the mainboard (illustrated in the UM2 assembly guide).

You definitely blew out your PWM circuit for the cooling fans. This means the output will not vary and will be stuck on at 19v+, usually. I know, because I've blown out a board too. To fix this, in short (you'll have to google -- or check lower in the comments where I explained this), you'll change your cooling fan PIN in the firmware to the left over hotend heater port pin.

what limit switches are people using on these? I'm currently looking for some based in UK and don't really want to order from china

Any mechanical limit switch can work. The X/Y gantry have a longer metal arm on them, to allow the switch to be placed out of the way but have the gantry touch the switch arm for limiting.

Wire them for Normally Open if using the default fimware configuration.

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firmware is the one used on the ultimaker 2 right?

May 24, 2016 - Modified May 24, 2016

Hi, I have no idea how to use this. Has anyone that used it before help me. I'm wondeering if i could do it this way https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_6i7aNibAA. Thanks

No, you'll use the Arduino IDE to install the firmware to the controller. Check out the last page of my instructions (google doc) that gives a bit of detail as to what you need to do to compile/upload the firmware. It's not step-by-step, so you'll have to do a bit of googling if you get stuck.

Do I really need a heatbed only for PLA prints?

If you do the painters tape/hairspray/etc hack, you can get away w/o heat... but only with PLA. And even then, it has it's caveats, as far as what you can reliably print w/success (e.g. prints w/ minimal contact on the surface).

After spending years 3D printing, I find there are certain things you don't skimp on... The hot-end is #1 and a heated bed w/a (borosilicate) glass surface is 2nd. While the motion hardware is important, the core function of this machine is to print... and those are the key components to printing.

The heat does help when printing w/PLA by slowing the shrinkage. Additionally, you get a beautiful glass finish on the bottom of your print, which after the bed cools, just pops off the bed. After years with kapton tape, painters tape, and hairspray... nothing beats a heated glass bed.

jasonatepaint, any chance of getting the top and bottom brackets to take a M6 bolt? holes are too small and i can't seem to adjust the file to take the bolt, internal thread of my extrusion will only take m6

The file is not parametric, so you would have to update each part w/6mm holes.... OR print with decent infill (50%) and additional shells and then drill the holes out.

Cheers pal, managed to make up a modified version to take bigger bolts, will post them up when I'm back in office,

Built the cabinet today, Jason, this was a pleasure to build, it's a fantastic piece of work and thank you for sharing it!

After I have this one running I'll most likely use the files to make a larger version with a 18"x18" build space! And strip my old machine for parts! Lol

Nice! Thanks :-) And I know what ya mean about stripping down an old machine to build a bigger/better one. My UM2 clones both have parts from my older printers. :-)

Cool man :),

I've got a vertex at the minute, it's a horrid machine, knocks a lot, hotends rubbish etc, so going to butcher the board and electronics, buy a 18"x18" bed and basically build up a cabinet with these parts to house it! New rods/belts etc it'll be a hybrid monster lol!

I have two of these being built atm, as a friend who prints hasn't a large enough build space on his current machine to print the z axis parts and tray etc (using a fabrikator)

I believe he's going to install a diamond triple hotend! I shall make sure he posts up on what he did and how so the community know! Right I'll try and get those parts posted up now!

I need your help please , I have ordered
http://www.motedis.com/shop/Nutprofil/20-I-Typ-Nut-5/Aluprofil-20x20-I-Typ-Nut-5::1076.html
And then changed to the order to this extrusion profile:
http://www.motedis.com/shop/Slot-profiles/Profile-20-B-Type-slot-6/Profile-20x20-B-type-slot-6::1.html
Iam really confused , which Extrusion to go for ?

Well it's a difference of 1mm in the gap of the slot. The 5mm version has a bit more material, however, I doubt this will make any difference on these short lengths.

I'd go for the 5mm.. the t-nuts will be smaller (they're heavier than the aluminum extrusions). Additionally, if you can, go for the 5mm t-nuts with 3mm threaded holes. This way you can use 3mm screws instead of 5mm. They're lighter, cheaper, and are just as strong in this application.

Where are the limit switches mounted, Thanks

All of your questions can be answered with a little bit more reading. :-) It's all in the instructions.

May 10, 2016 - Modified May 10, 2016
IAtkinI_GTE - in reply to jasonatepaint

any preference on limit switches? i have a choice of quite a few and can't decide which ones will be the best for it,

also the motor pulleys are they defy 20tooth 5mm bore? as the UM2 packs come with 16tooth 5mm bores

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It's exactly the same as the Ultimaker 2.

Hello jasonatepaint, I am using E3D V6 now for replacing the original hotend. I connect the heatsink fan to 19-24V connector on the main board and the fan is always on. I wonder if there is any way you know that I can control this fan like before (only turn on when the nozzle is hot). Thanks.

May 1, 2016 - Modified May 1, 2016
jasonatepaint - in reply to wenyi189

Yes you can... but with a caveat. If you're not planning on using 2 hotend/extruders, you can use the second hotend 24v output (Heater 1), which uses PWM too.

Edit the firmware file: pins.h. Line 1187, change from

#define HEATER_1_PIN 3

to

#define HEATER_1_PIN -1

Next, go into Configuration_adv.h. Line 80, change from

#define EXTRUDER_0_AUTO_FAN_PIN   -1

to

#define EXTRUDER_0_AUTO_FAN_PIN   3

Also in Configuration_adv.h, you can change the following

#define EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_TEMPERATURE 40
#define EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_SPEED   255  // == full speed

Save and upload to the board. Your hotend fan will work w/PWM off the 2nd hotend output and will turn on/off at what ever temperature you set for EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_TEMPERATURE

Thats a good idea. Thanks alot man. I think I could also just buy another 5V fan to replace it. As long as it can cool down fast enough.

My rods are bended. Is it possible to use stainles steel rods ? Or do they have to much resistance ?

Quite a few people have posted about their linear rod woes. It seems to come down to quality control issues from the manufacturer... and the resellers are just buying in bulk and reselling w/o any verification. Sadly though, this is a "you get what you pay for" scenario. There's a reason why the aliexpress ones are a few dollars each as opposed to $10-20 each if you buy from a quality manufacturer.

Another option is to buy quality rods in longer length and cut them yourself. For my 2 builds, I had quality 8mm rods from a delta printer breakdown. So I used a 3D printed jig to cut 6 and 8mm rods with a Dremel Max. This has been very successful route for me. The seller VXB.com is a good US seller. I use their 13" (330mm) 12mm rods. I have also been successful with buying longer length of 6mm on eBay (from a US seller) and cutting to size. I have purchased twice from the same reseller w/great results. I'll have to go thru some old emails to find the name/link, so let me if you want it.

I'd stick with the hardened and chromed rods. After hundreds, or even thousands of hours printing, and possibly millions of separate movements I would be worried about anything else holding up. I actually had to get two rods replaced because they were bent and the aliexpress seller was quick to send me new ones. Since they aren't too expensive, and really are the heart of the machine, I ended up ordering three complete sets and and using the straightest of the bunch. Now I have spares. Not that I recommend doing that for everything, it's just what I did.

I will try it with stainless steel rods from my work. The alibaba rods are so worse

I had to replace one of the 6mm rod from Aliexpress becuase it was stuck in LM6UU bearing. I paid another $30 to get just one rod from Misumi. One of the 8mm rod is bent as well but it works okay so I left it along.

Jun 4, 2016 - Modified Jun 4, 2016
soniquev8 - in reply to wenyi189

I don't want to sound like a troll or an advertising shill, but there's a great company Openbuildspartstore.com that has everything you could possibly need to build this and much more. I felt like a dope when I found them since they are so awesome. Aluminum extrusions, motors, belts, all geared toward hobbyists and at very reasonable prices. I've had bad experiences with Ali... and Misumi in the past and just wanted to save someone else some trouble.

Just took a look and found no linear rods.

I have a question.
My rods are moving left and right when motors are moving.
they are falling out of the bearings.
How can i fix this?
and i have another question.
My rods are going up and down while moving, but the rods are straight.
I think my pullys are not straight.
How can i fix this?

Greetings

The bearings should have the 8mm spacers (varied lengths, depending on axis). Pushed against those spacers are the outer bearing and the pulleys. The pulleys should be tightened against the spacers/bearing, locking the rods in place. This must be down on all 8 corners (X + Y).

Rods going up and down? On the Z-axis? This can happen if you've widened the holes that the 12mm rods fit into on the top/bottom. I had this problem on one of my builds after making the diameter too big. Gorilla glue (clear) is great stuff. It foams and expands as it cures. It's also completely removable if you need to break down the machine. A few drops in the holes of the Z top/bottom gantry parts will keep them from sliding/moving.

No the rod for left and right. While moving its going up and down

I think one of my rod is doing the same, but it does not seem to affect the print.

It you sure ? The heater is then absolutely not exactly making you Gets Poor print quality ?

The heater? I meant one of my rods is moving up and down slightly.

Yes but the heater is connected with it, with the 6mm rod my heater is also moving up and down

Oh, yes, if it is that bad. Mine seems to be okay. If your's is bent that much then I suggest you to get a new one.

Shoot some video and stick it up on Youtube or somewhere, so I can help diagnose. Hard to really know w/o seeing it in action.

Apr 24, 2016 - Modified Apr 25, 2016

in regards to the extrusion the 2020 profile i can find has a 5mm slot not a 6mm will this cause problems or does it have to be 6mm?

I'm having a nightmare sourcing out this stuff for a reasonable prince with a cut in UK

also with the gantries, I'm presuming the 339mm v2 top and bottom Z are if your Z rods are longer? current me if I'm wrong before i print the wrong ones?

The slot should not make a difference at all. The "connector" parts have a slot in them to fit in extrusion slot. However, a 1mm difference should not cause any headaches.

As far as the 330 vs 339mm... comes down to which 12mm rods you get. When I built my machines, I had a lot of 8mm (x/y gantry) linear rods, so I opted to not buy any of the "UM2 rod kits" and instead bought the 12mm rods from a US distributor as 13 inch long (330mm). The 339mm version was added later to support people buying the official UM2 length. The overall Z-length print area doesn't change with either option.

nice one pal :) great response all things answered, been printing parts all week, time to start ordering :D

had a good nose through all the files already this is a amazing 1:1 clone its going to save me some pennies and give a great project!

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Hello finely got a board from robotdigg i hooked the 2-12 volt fans up to fan pwm next to led on ultimaker2 board the fan stays on full speed i cant control the speed i tryed in software simplified3d and in the LED does that mean its a bad board ?
i planned on using the e3d v6 bowden setup i need just 1 fan to run when i turn machine on to cool the hotend the 5 volt fan is to small i believe?
also has anyone tryed the bulldog lite as a bowden setup on ultimaker 2?
Thanks

A couple things.... The output PSU is 24v. The 2x12v fans needs to be wired in series, so that the 24v power is split between the 2 fans.

If you wired them in parallel and hooked them up to the board and turned it on, you killed the PWM circuit for that output port. IF you also tried the same setup on the LED output port, you also killed that PWM circuit. Bad news is that there is no way to fix this. Once they're "dead", They will only output a fixed voltage and can no longer be controlled via software/controller. :(

If that happened, don't feel TOO bad. I've done it myself. I resolved the issue on one printer by changing the firmware to use the secondary hotend output to run my fans.

There is a 5v output port in the center of the board. The important part here is that you get a fan that pushes a ton of air. The BOM mentions a CFM airflow... make sure the fan you buy is at least as many CFM. Cheap fans here are NOT an option.

Hope that helps!

that was a typo i ment 2- 24 volt fans,I bought the 24 volt e3d,v6 i was thinking about that 2 -12volts but thought it was a bad risk glad i didnt use 12 volt fans I had alot of bad experience doing this printer. you did a great job with everything. 1 was buying the 1st motherboard from china as i posted earlier i bought from global wholesale thru,aliexpress the motherboard just sparked and bent capacitors they sent the board in a vanilla envelope with little bubble wrap,this one is from robotdigg next time ill go directly to ultimaker and pay alot more then hopefully no more headaches so if my pwm circuit is bad is it hard to edit firmware to use the 2nd hotend
Thanks for the help i need to start reading my questions after i type before pressing enter
Thank you

Is it possible to use the UM2 power brick instead

2x24v is not correct either. The spec calls for 2x12v fans, run in series (not parallel). It is possible that running 2x24v fans in parallel, you drew twice as many amps then was expected and it blew out the PWM. Buying the board direct from UM won't protect against bad wiring unfortunately. The PWM circuit is sensitive to over amps being pulled through it. The UM forums have plenty of discussions about this.

I've purchased a board from Global Wholesale and didn't have issues, however I believe my board was shipped in a thin box that was then put inside a vanilla envelope. The "U-Maker" store on Aliexpress has been good to deal with. I had a faulty controller and had a new one shipped by them after determining it was bad. Granted, it requires a bit of patience and time for shipping back to them. :-)

Hello sorry to bug you again i tryed searching ultimaker forums and found nothing do you have any bookmarks for bad pwm circuits or the one you went to
Thanks

Apr 20, 2016 - Modified Apr 20, 2016

This is awesome. I'm going to eventually build this.

Apr 17, 2016 - Modified Apr 17, 2016

Awesome!
Could you also tell what you use to secure the bowden tube at the printhead side? It is not the standard UM2 bowden tube fitting with horseshoe clamp?

Check out the BOM under UM2 Print Head. They're called Bowden Couplings.

Hello Jasonatepaint.

I let you this link for you can updated the boom list for they than want to buy the power plug conector to the ultimaker board on aliexpress. I hope someone help this. The bad thing is that you will have to buy 10 units.

http://es.aliexpress.com/store/product/Hot-Sale-10-Pcs-4-Pin-Power-DIN-Plug-For-TFT-LCD-Flatscreen-12V-DC-DIN/1934350_32512181519.html?spm=2114.04010208.3.12.C9Xg9X&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_1,searchweb201602_4_10017_10005_10006_10034_10021_507_10022_10020_10018_10019,searchweb201603_6&btsid=6f869504-9475-4cac-b949-9ee59125ec20

Thanks. As soon as I have some free time, I'll update.

How noisy is this setup? Does anyone have any videos of it on setup and first layer?

Just getting ready to build one in UK :)

It's very quiet. One of the quietest printers I've ever seen. I wouldn't be able to sleep with it in the same room, but it's not going to wake up the whole house when it's running in another room.

Thanks for the reply bud

Going to be building one of these to take 1.75mm filament not sure on what I'll need to do this hotend wise,

Maybe the e3d mod and a different extruder?

I suggest just skipping the UM2 hotend parts and go straight to the E3D v6. That's what I did and I do not regret it!

http://www.thingiverse.com/make:208075

Ultimaker 2 Aluminum Extrusion 3D printer

@ jasonatepaint Hello, sorry for spell correction.
Is it also possible to download standard cura firmware to controller?
And just edit the E-Steps? i want to use the 2.85mm Filament.
I'm just building it ATM, Very nice product you made.
Greetings from holland

I have not found a way to do this. The problem is that each compiled binary has a hash value that is compared w/the one that is on the board. Since the firmware uploaded on it is NOT a valid hash, it won't attempt to overwrite it.

Uploading the firmware isn't hard and allows you to tweak all sorts of things. Check out my instructions that tell you what you have to do to compile and upload. It's relatively painless. :-)

And greeting back from Austin, TX. Been to Amsterdam a few times... just beautiful, one of my favorite cities! :-D

Okay, Thank you for response,
What do i need to change in your firmware to use 2.85mm filament?
Or could it be changed software matic?

Greetings

The firmware isn't mine.... just the stock UM2 firmware.

If you are using Cura to slice, you can change the filament diameter within the UM2 controller by selecting a Filament type (e.g. PLA, ABS) and changing it's diameter.

If you are using something else that overrides the internal settings (e.g. Simplify3D), then you set it within the slicer software.

@ Josanatepain Thank you for response. Where can i Find the configuring.h?

hahaha... that's the worst representation of my username, ever! :-)

It's part of the UM2 firmware. In my instructions, at the bottom, it talks about uploading the firmware and where to get it. The "configuration.h" file is in the Marlin folder of the firmware.

Can I buy an optoendstop and use it in the ultimaker 2 board, I want to use something with more precision than a simple switch?
How can I do? Someone have tried it?

Yes possible. Although I don't have specifics. It'll be a configuration change in the firmware (e.g. end-stop pull up resistor setting + NO/NC settings).

Honestly, unless you are doing something non-standard, the only axis that would cause issues is the Z-axis at start of the print. However, I get a very repeatable first layer on my printer. I only ever have to level/adjust the bed after I've disassembled the hotend. So I've had optical end stops on my list for a while, but it's always been a "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" sort of thing.

Is it possible to buy a full metal mk8. And using the um2 gear? The mk8 is using another gear. That will give Some trouble right?
Or i need to change Some thing is firmware? So yes. How?

Apr 11, 2016 - Modified Apr 11, 2016

All very possible. Just a matter of using the correct values in the firmware. I'm not certain if there would be alignment/feed issues with the UM2 knurled gear on an MK8 extruder setup. Probably easier to just keep the MK8 gear and update the firmware.

In Configuration.h, look for DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT. The last value in that array is for the extruder.

define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.0,80.0,200,800} //for MK7 gear

Could you adjust the E-steps into the EEPROM , M92 parameter, without touching the firmware?

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/2308-how-to-adjust-steps-per-e-in-printrun

Sure. Check out M500/501 for viewing/saving your changed settings.

However, if you want the latest firmware on your printer, you'll have to eventually update it. If you manually change settings, make sure to keep track of them so when you do need to update the firmware, you can get back to your current settings.

Apr 4, 2016 - Modified Apr 4, 2016

Does anyone how to get the Ultiboard to update its firmware, when I select update default... I get the following error message
Failed to install firmware:
This firmware is not compatible with this machine.
Trying to install UM2 or UMO + firmware on an UMO?

The board that I got is from the BOM website.

This error is expected if you're trying to flash the firmware from Cura (as a binary .hex) file.

The best way to upload the firmware is to follow my instructions. You will need to Arduino IDE to compile and upload to your board.

I just used the install default firmware function in Cura and it gives me that error, I didn't select custom firmware. Does the firmware on Github the latest?

I am not sure about the updating. I just downloaded the latest Marlin firmware from Ultimaker official Github and flashed it.

Dont buy the motherboard from a store called global wholesale from aliexpress they send the motherboard in a vanella envelope no bubble wrap the capacitors all were bent they wont refund money nor send a new one total scam I just want to warn other people so they dont get burned

Mar 20, 2016 - Modified Mar 20, 2016

What are the correct files for the feeder? I want to use 3mm filament. Looking in the feeder folder, there seems to be a lot of STL files.

From the instructions:

I am running both the official and aluminum extrusion Ultimaker's with 1.75mm filament. Ultimately it'll be up to you to decide what filament gauge you want to use. Often it comes down to what filament you already have in bulk. :-) For that reason, I haven't included the parts to complete the hotend/extruder in the BOM. If you choose to go with the default 3mm setup, you can acquire the parts thru one the the sellers in the BOM. If you choose to use 1.75, I have included some additional parts to print and more info in the build instructions. In either case, the knurled drive gear in the BOM will work for both filament sizes.

True enough, thanks :)

I was confused about it for awhile. If you wanna use 3mm, use the link in the manual which points you to https://www.youmagine.com/. The file there is for 3mm. You only need to print the 2 files provided on Thingiverse that labeled 1.75mm for the modification. Or, there is a better solution to use a full metal kit for the feeder part. Link here: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Improved-Version-Printer-Parts-Reprap-Makerbot-MK8-Full-Metal-Aluminum-Alloy-Bowden-Extruder-Kit-No-Motor/32542731423.html

Thanks for the replies. The metal kit says 1.75mm, will this work for the 3mm? Thanks

Yes, but for 3mm you have to buy one of these connectors.
http://www.robotdigg.com/product/249/PC4-01+or+PC6-01+Fitting+4+Bowden+Extruder
Get the one called PC6-M6.
I had to get one because my hotend could only take the 3mm bowden tube.
But it works just fine for 1.75mm.

Hi there :)- just a little question. What is the build envelope? Thanks :D-

It's a 1:1 clone of the UM2. The print dimensions are the same as the UM2.

My mainboard faceplate somehow does not fit. It seems like the solder points on the back side of the main board is pushing against the part and lift it up. Any ideas guys?

NVM, I think I will just cut the extra solder off.

Just noticed something weird about X motor mount, is that top left hole supposed to be half blocked?

http://i.imgur.com/5vjkl9k.png

After all the back-and-forth, I figured I better fix that damn part before this turns into a slap fight. :-D

You are correct that the part had a design flaw (the blocked hole). It was missed throughout the process since the slicer fixed the problem. As far as the tight fit for mounting the motor, it's a matter of keeping things loose until everything is in place. The socket head of the screw sits in the extrusion gap w/o issue. Just a matter of alignment. But since it's been a common complaint, what's a 3mm shift among friends. :-)

I uploaded a new version (v2) of the X-axis mount now that's offset by 3mm that should clear the extrusion completely. The reason it's so tight is that when designing I didn't want to move ANY default UM2 hardware so that it would be as exact as possible.

Thanks, printing it up right now

Your mesh viewer is a bit strange, the hole is not actually blocked when you print the object.

It's not just Rhino, the blockage is there, it's not just a rogue poly either, it's about 5mm thick.

http://i.imgur.com/7ozl36r.png

http://i.imgur.com/IGGJo2Y.png

I also had a problem with the x axis mount.
Along with your problem the holes are not correctly aligned so they don't fit anyway.
You should make this one instead. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1363713

UM2 Alternate X Axis Motor Support
by jffry7
Mar 19, 2016 - Modified Mar 19, 2016
jasonatepaint - in reply to DerpyEyed

I uploaded a new version, but still flipped the other way than your part. I have it flipped because the portion that needs support is hidden against the extrusion, so there's no droop from bridging and looks cleaner.

Edit: Just realized this isn't your part. Oops. :-)

Does the new version fix the alignment issue that DerpyEyed mentioned?

That's the one that the person gave me when I was having problems. And when I made both of them (because the first one failed) there was nothing inside the hole.

That's got the same blocked hole..

You need to change your settings somewhere, the hole is actually not blocked and something is causing it to appear that way.

I am using slic3r and my printed part has it blocked. I didn't really think about it at first but I noticed it.

It's even visible in the thingiverse viewer.. http://i.imgur.com/B7IPuv0.png

I'm having a bit of trouble. I installed the firmware, and it runs the first time setup. Once it finishes leveling the build plate it moves the plate all the way to the bottom, but the problem is that it stops a little before it hits the switch and says that the switch is broken. The switch is not broken because it works fine when it starts, but when it goes back down after leveling it just stops before it hits it and tells me that the z stop is broken. What can I do to fix this?

I figured it out. I had to go into the configuration and increase Z_MAX_POS.
I'm actually surprised I figured that out because I don't know how to code for arduino.

I thought we don't have to touch any firmware setting. Thanks for sharing. I checked the configuration.h and it says all three axis are 230. I am guessing if it is able to hit the limit switch then it does not matter?

I'm just saying if the plate stops before it even gets to the switch, then increase the z max pos. Don't set it too high or the plate will go up into the nozzle when leveling and might break some things. A value of 270 worked for me.

Cool. Thx. My parts should arrive in a week or two and I will start building as soon as I get them.

It takes a while, so set aside a couple days. Also, there might be some parts you need that are not listed on the bom. So be on the lookout for that.

What parts are you referring to?

I just mean don't be surprised if you find you need something, and it wasn't listed on the bom.

Oh yeah, I can imagine that. Have you ran into anything that you needed but wasn't on the list?

Let me look at it and try to remember.
If you are planning on printing the fan shroud for the hotend, you need 8x M3x14mm screws to hold the fans on.
If you print the fan shroud yourself, then search amazon for "high temperature tape" to put around the area where the hotend goes.
Also, I think this design assumed that the limit switches have threads in them, but the limit switches I got were not threaded, so for the Y axis I had to design my own custom bracket to hold that in the correct place.
And if you are going to print the extruder bracket that goes on the extruder motor, you will need the screws and spring for that. I just bought an aluminum one because it came with all the parts.

Make sure when you buy the hotend you get the correct size for your filament, since my hotend was made for the 3mm bowden tube and the extruder bracket only came with a collet for the 1.75mm tube, I had to search and buy a collet that fits in the same screw hole but takes the 3mm tube.

Here are some tips that I realized when building this:
On the ultimaker 2, it comes with a braided sleeve that already has all of the cables inside, but since you have to make that yourself you need to buy 2 of the special connector to plug into the board (I don't know what they are called).
I would suggest using some Category 5 cable (the cable you use to plug your computer into the internet router) to connect everything on the hotend to the board, since cat 5 has 8 small cables inside you can just solder those and it will be organized.
You are also going to need a crimping tool to create the connectors. You should be able to pick up one of those for around $40

At the moment I can't think of any other tips.

I think the heating cartridge takes at least few amps of current. In this case I am pretty sure you don't want to use a single cat 5 wire for the heating cartridge. It might work, but even though I doubt it will heat up fast enough.

Thanks for the reply. I got the limit switches from fbrc8.com but I can't really tell from the picture whether they have the threads. I have picked the right size hotend(1.75mm) and I have printed both version extruder bracket(3mm/1.75mm). Thanks for mentioning the spring because I was wondering about it. I have purchased all screws mentioned in the build manual as well.

For the 2 special connector, I'm not sure if you are talking about the white male connectors that are supposed to be plunged into the main board? I believe these are mentioned in the BOM as "other parts", as well as the braided sleeve. It is a interesting idea to use the cat 5 cable, but my question is whether or not the wire in cat 5 cable can tolerate the amount of current passing through the wire of heating cartridge. Well, I have not done any research on that but it came up immediately in my head.

The heating cartridge and PT100 have their own cable that is plenty long enough to reach the board, so you don't need to connect those to the cat 5 cable.

I got my limit switches from the same place. They do not have threads.
One thing I forgot to mention is you need M2.5 nuts for the M2.5 screws. I never saw those in the bom so I had to get those too, I would highly recommend getting the thin version of the nuts.

Since the limit switches do not have threads, you will need to cut the two cylinder shaped parts off where the y axis endstop goes, to make it short enough that you can put nuts to hold them in place.
Either that or you can print the custom bracket that I made to hold the switch. (Also requires you to cut off the cylinders)
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1421492
If you find your own solution then you may not need a custom bracket, but it works great for me.

Custom Y endstop bracket

Okay, I got it. Will this nut do the job?

http://www.amazon.com/Steel-Hex-M2-5-0-45-Threads-Pack/dp/B000NBIHEW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458165612&sr=8-1&keywords=m2.5+nut

I haven't start the assembly yet so I'm not sure what cylinder thing you are talking about but thanks for sharing the file.

I would actually get the nuts/any extra screws you need from http://www.mcmaster.com/
They are high quality and are very cheap, and they deliver quickly too.
That's where I got all my nuts/screws, they are a great provider.

So much frustration going on right now trying to build this printer. The rods I received are no good. one of the X/Y print head rod is too big to fit any of 4 LM6UU bearing I have. I have to re-order one from Misumi and it cost $30. There is another X axis rod that is slightly bent and I think it wouldn't matter that much. I had to reprint some of the spacers so they can fit onto the rods. I should expect a long debugging period after I actually put everything together.

Got it. My print head arrived today. I bought a pre-assembled head because I wasn't sure about making it myself at the time. It looks terrible especially the fan mount part. I am printing a custom fan mount right now and thinking about the solution for the cables. The cables for three fans are really short.

Mar 6, 2016 - Modified Mar 7, 2016

I have a problem, it's looks like belts are too short in X direction. I'm pretty sure I've placed gantrys correctly.
Here is a photos

http://s21.postimg.org/j5h48m7xz/IMG_20160306_210139.jpg
http://s16.postimg.org/6n7orqxx1/IMG_20160306_210203.jpg

All belts are same length, looks like there in the X should be a little longer.

@edit The front side is on the longer or the shorter one?

It's hard to tell from those images (they're pretty small), but my first question is, are you sure you ordered the correct 610mm belts? They are all the same size. The reason you think one should be longer than the other is the size of the frame and the offset for the Z-axis.

The belts need to be put on in a particular order as they will be a tight fit. The official Ultimaker assembly guide shows the way they need to be assembled. Keep in mind that the black slider blocks that the belts fit through, have a big of give due to the spring inside the block. This will help w/tensioning.

Thanks for reply. Everything is ok. I thought that X axis should be this longer one than Y. However, it is the opposite :)

Hello. I am very excited about this design and want to build it. I have ordered pretty much all parts and I am confused about the screws. Are screws listed in the build manual covering all needed ones or should I also follow the UM2 source file for screws and nuts? They don't seem matching each other. Thanks.

In theory, yes, I have listed all the screws you will need. It's possible I missed one or two... but I have not heard back from anyone complaining yet. ;-)

Hello, I'm searching the correct stepper motor to put in the printer. Which are the important specifications for the prupose of it works well?
Thanks for helping

It's in the BOM under "Extruder"

For the extruder. If I have a different knurled drive that has a different diameter, would that affect anything or is there a way to change that in some settings.

Yeah, you'l need to change the following variable in configuration.h

DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT

You can get that info from the manufacturer of your knurled gear.

Mar 4, 2016 - Modified Mar 4, 2016
DerpyEyed - in reply to jasonatepaint

Where do I find configuration.h? I know it has to do something with the firmware, but I haven't gotten that far into this project yet.

EDIT: I actually found that the other intended knurled drive works just fine on the extruder I bought.

At the end of the instructions it talks about uploading the firmware and changes that have to be made. The firmware is available on Ultimaker's github. The link is in the instructions.

Yeah with a bit of looking around I found the code, and got the Arduino compiler so I could actually compile it.

Mar 1, 2016 - Modified Mar 2, 2016

My ultimaker is in progress. But I have some doubts about the electrical cabling. First what is the kind of socket to connect the 24v psu to the board and what is the good cabling ? I don't want to burn the board at the first try ^^. Does there is a instruction/document about the cabling ?that ll be great

In the BOM, under Heatbed (part-by-part), there is a 4-pin Kycon connector. That's the connector you need. It's completely possible to do. And to make it easier, here's an image of the pins and their required polarity. http://i.imgur.com/AkZkut0.jpg

Are there simply two pins for each pole? I'm thinking about desoldering the Kycon connector and integrating a 24V power supply and just solder leads in the board. And of course make a bracket for the extrusion.

Yes. But the idea is that each pair is carrying it's own rail of current. I have not confirmed this, but my guess is that one rail is for the heatbed and one is for everything else. So when wiring one up, you will want to make sure you're providing enough amps (and use heavy gauge wire).

Thanks a lot Jason! I missed this information in the EBOM. I ll upload some pictures when the printer ll be finish.

Mar 1, 2016 - Modified Mar 1, 2016

Just to check i have the correct idea about the frame, you have these extrusions:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1KQgVvDMdvARy1tZndjX0QxV3c/view?usp=sharing

And put the frame together like this;
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1KQgVvDMdvASnJZUkdvbHVXd00/view?usp=sharing

Using the printed parts and/or tapped holes in the extrusion ends?

Check out the instructions, the illustrations of all the parts are labeled.

You will Tap the top/bottom of the vertical extrusions to mount the top/bottom brackets.

Yeah it pretty much goes like that. Once you get the two halves done they fit together nicely.
The one that I am working on is about 90% done. Just waiting on some missing parts, after that I just have to make all the wires and I'm done.

Nice Job!!!!!
Building one now. You did an awesome job of setting up the build list and STL. prints.
Thanks

You're Welcome :-)

Interesting project but where can I order the first print outs?

Find a friend with a 3D printer or pay someone to print them out for ya.

While I believe this build is pretty straight forward, if this is your first 3D printer build, a legitimate kit may be a better option. While I give you everything you need to build the printer, experience with electronics and general "maker" knowledge is needed.

Building 3D printers is a LOT easier after you've have some 3D printing experience. Plus, if anything goes wrong, you can re-print the parts. :-)

Does the hotend upgrade kit come with all the parts required for the Z axis? or do I need to get more parts? thanks!

If you're talking about the direct drive extruder: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1102900

Yes, I believe it's everything you need. But please let me know if you discover something I missed. I sometimes miss a screw or two... but I think I got it all. :-)

Ultimaker 2 PG35L Direct Drive Extruder for 1.75mm E3D v6 Hotend

My bad, I meant the heated bed kit... oops.... thanks for the response! I actually have the direct drive hotend printer and already have the hotend and the motor on me!

It comes with all the parts, including the power supply and stepper. with freebies such as a separate board but maybe use for other project. NOTE rods not included.

Do you mean the board that comes with the heated plate it not required?

For the Heater board Rev 0.1 PCB, if using UM2 Ultiboard board 2.x.x then not required but if using UMO board version 1.5.7 then you need it.

Looks like I got a 2.1.4 board so I guess I don't need it.
Hopefully I can figure out which cables plug into which port. (As of this message I haven't received the board yet)

Check this out for the heated bed assembly of the kit. https://ultimaker.com/en/manuals/249-assembly-manual

Once assembled you can bounce back to the official UM2 assembly manual for instructions on attaching the wires to the controller board.

I have already put the bed together. I'm just waiting for some missing parts to arrive in the mail, which is the only thing stopping me from finishing the assembly.

Feb 25, 2016 - Modified Feb 26, 2016

What part of the build platform hits the z-switch? Since the switch is mounted below the rods, I don't see how it will push the switch. Unless there is something I am supposed to attach to the HBP that is not mentioned in the instructions.

Also, I'm having trouble assembling everything that goes onto the x and y rods. Because that is also not mentioned in the instructions.

Okay, I just looked at my machine that has the new aluminum plate. I used the same Z-axis bracket that's uploaded and just used a couple small spacers to offset the change.

As far as mounting the Z-axis switch mount, take a look at my google docs instructions. On the diagrams look for part "G" to see how it's mounted. The switch will sit flush against the vertical portion of the part, with a spacer.

If I get some time, I will try to provide a resized part. But you can use washers or anything to offset enough that the screw touches the switch. Flip the screw so that you screw it in from below, using the head to hit the screw. Since you screw it in from below, the size of the screw doesn't matter too much. Once you've determined a safe offset (make sure you don't go so low you crush stuff). Then put a nut on the topside of the plate w/a little loc-tite to keep the screw from moving and tighten the screw against the nut.

Ultimaker changed the aluminum plate to make it compatible w/their entire UM2 lineup. So it slightly changed the way you mount the z-axis limit switch.

Find the M3 screw hole on the back right portion of the plate. This screw, when mounted, should hit the limit switch. The 3d printed mount for limit switch will need to be extended outward. I think I uploaded this part... but I will check after I post this and if it's not there, I will get it up there and let ya know.

I'm having trouble assembling everything that goes onto the x and y rods.

I'm not quite sure what's missing... My instructions point back to the official UM2 instructions for assembly of the X/Y gantry (belts, pulleys, etc). More details and I'll try to help

Feb 26, 2016 - Modified Feb 26, 2016
DerpyEyed - in reply to jasonatepaint

What size(length) screw goes into the hole you are talking about?
Let me know when you uploaded the extended piece.

Feb 23, 2016 - Modified Feb 23, 2016

There is a problem with the Motor Mount X-axis piece. The holes that connect it to the extrusion are too close to the side, and when you stick the screws through the holes they do not reach the center of the extrusion, and it can't be attached. If you sand away enough of the side to make it fit, the extrusion then blocks two of the screws for the motor from being able to go through.
EDIT: Pretty much the screws are too close to the edge and it doesn't fit on the extrusion. (I have the correct size)
Has anyone else had this problem? What is the fix?

I did have this issue I ended up adding about 1.75mm of material between the extrusion holes and the motor mount holes. But considering no one complained about it I thought it is how much my material shrank as I did modify some parts as well not to mention about 1.5mm spacer on all axis. Either that or I completely screwed the extrusion measurements (misumi)

In my case, my material doesn't stretch, like, at all. So this makes it impossible for me to attach that piece. I'm not a designer, so I can't fix the model myself (I tried fixing it). I also tried using a drill to make the hole bigger, but that actually ruined the piece, so I have to make another one. Because of this, I'm now at a brick wall for this project and I can't continue unless it is fixed. I have tried every way I can think of to fix it myself, and all of them failed.

Sorry to hear of your issues. ABS shrinks a bit more than PLA, so if you printed in ABS, that could have contributed to it possibly.

My solution to working with the tightness in installing this mount, is to pre-install the 2 motor screws near the extrusion before I attach the mount to the vertical extrusion.

Good luck w/the rest of the build.

I print in PLA. And I actually fixed the issue by using the fixed version provided by jffry7. You might consider using his part in your project; it fits the design perfectly with no issues.

UM2 Alternate X Axis Motor Support
by jffry7

When I load up the BoM.. it's blank? Why? I'd love to try making this.. the only reason I don't like ultimakers is this proprietary case that leaves you in a bind if something fails. But this aluminum rails version is easier to get into... and honestly better looking! Please tell me the parts can still be obtained?

You're the second person to mention this. I think it's because a default "form" page that google added.

Look for the tabs "BOM" and "vitamins". That's where all the good stuff is.

i just tryed to purchase 2 parts from aliexpress they took money out of my account then canceled my order with no refund so dont buy from aliexpress Just a warning

I've bought all sorts of stuff from Allexpress w/o issue. Even refunds/replacements. Aliexpress isn't 1 seller... it's like eBay's Buy-it-now.... If you had a problem w/one seller... report them to Aliexpress.

On a side note... if you see something on there and it's priced WELL below every other seller.... it's probably a scam.

Ali is sorta like EBAY, seller are a hit an miss but be aware 90% of seller share same shipping forwarder. There are times when you buy multiple item(at he same time) that 2-3 different seller gives you same tracking info. Immediately contact them, some seller will help you out even resend the item but better catch it fast cause some seller dont care, i marked those sellers.

For those interested in adapting Robert's cable chain, I modified to fit our Aluminum Extrusion version.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1348247

Note: It only have 1mm clearance to the aluminum extrusion and about 2-3mm clearance to the bed. For those with acrylic base cover, reduce the number of segments as it might push down a bit on the acrylic when homing Z.

Cable Chain for UM2 Aluminum Extrusion
by jffry7

Anyone know how much this printer weighs assembled?

I'll have to put one of mine on a scale to get an idea... but I could safely say it weighs no more than a standard UM2.... and possibly lighter... the aluminum extrusions are very light compared to the stock acrylic walls.

Hi, I have been try to get past the setup screen, however whenever I plug motor or end stops in the screen is blank. I can press the button and it beeps but not screen. When I unplug the motors and end stops I can get the welcome screen back. At one point I was ale to get both teh z stage and x axis to move across to the end stops, both were triggered correctly and it moved back to the middle. I have replaced the display board, ribbon cables and screen. Does anyone have any ideas on what it could be or what I could try next?

Thanks

ok... Break through! So even without the screen (just pressing the button and listening for beeps) it starts the configuration process and everything seems to be moving correctly, hitting the end stops on X,Y,Z,and travels around the bed correctly. So I'm just back to working out why the screen only displays correctly for the first 3 setup screens, then becomes unreadable with small green rectangles everywhere like snow, before finally becoming unreadable gibberish. The only thing I can do now is replace the main board. If anyone can shed some light on this I would be very grateful!

Sounds like it could be a bad ulticontroller board. Not the main board, but the OLED's board. I got a bad one from China and worked w/them to get it shipped back/replaced. I printed via USB direct to the printer until I got the new board.

I would remove the ulticontroller and try to just operate the printer via USB (w/Repetier or S3D) and make sure everything works, with the exception of the display/controller. If all that works.... it's the ulticontroller.

Hi Jasonatepaint, Thankyou for the advise. I downloaded Repetier Host and it printed a dry run well. The bed heated to 60 deg the print head to 200 deg and all fans etc are working. After about 30 mins the OLED came on for a while, then disappear. This is the second screen and display controller board I have purchased. Both from Robotdigg. If I put an SD card in the screen goes blank, not sure if that normal. I will buy another display controller and see if its any better... But I'm starting to think it might be something else.

Thanks

This comment has been deleted.

I just started to build mine. Do someone know how to stop the translation of the rods inside de bearings? I tried to push the pulleys again the bearing, but it's not good

Feb 11, 2016 - Modified Feb 11, 2016
jffry7 - in reply to Jetjetonik

I printed a cylinder sorta like a stopper that covers the bearing holders. But actually you wont need this when you tighten the pulleys as the rods should stay in place. I left them there cause it doesnt bother me anyway. Hope it helps unless I misunderstood your question

You were right. When the belts are tense, all the rods don't move anymore.

Feb 7, 2016 - Modified Feb 7, 2016

For the Gantry Z-Axis Top/Bottom I can't tell whether I am supposed to print the normal or the 339mm version? Can someone help with this? Also I can't tell which file is for the z-axis limit switch bracket.

339mm if you are using stock UM2 rods.

Z-Axis_End_Stop.stl is the limit switch bracket you are looking for.

How can I tell if the rods I have are stock UM2?

Where did you order them from?

I believe it was aliexpress.

Then it sound be 339 then.
The other version was used for the original designer because he had some leftover reprap rods from another project that were a different length than the ultimaker ones.

Does anyone have a cheaper power supply? I dont want to buy a 90 dollar power supply...
Thanks

You can use any 24v PSU... as long as it puts out enough amps (10+). If you're using the UM2 controller, you'll need to buy the connector/pins (in the BOM) -- Also look thru the comments so you can get the wiring correct.

does anyone have any experiance with geeetech's knockoff ultimaker electronics board

they're alright

Hello,
With a friend, we build 2 of this printer. We bought all of the mecanical parts, but not the electronic.
Do someone try to use an arduino+ ramp 1.4 instead of the ultimaker board ? I see two advantages, it's cheapest (+-30$ arduino, ramp, display and pololu) and if one pololu burn or fail, you can change it and not all the board. However, you should probably use the ultimaker 1 firmware. If someone tried, I am interested to have his feedback.
Thanks

yes there is a version with ramps. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1178406

Ultimaker 2 Clone + Ramps 1.4 = Cheap and Cheerful!

Thanks for this quick answer! I

could you send me one?

Hey I'm going through the build manual and I'm not sure what the 2.5mm screws are for. It isn't mentioned anywhere except for the parts list

The limit switches.

Hmm what about the 16x M3x12 flat heads?

The top brackets

OK thanks.

Btw there are typos in the manual then, it says to use 10mm screws (Join the Y-axis extrusion with the Z-axis extrusion and X-axis extrusion using 2x Sides Top Brackets (C) with 4x M3x10 flat head screws)

Hi Guys,
I'm hoping that someone that has built this can lend some advice from their experience:

I'm looking to understand the print times associated with all the printable parts required for this build.

I'll be using a public printer at my local library (I don't have a printer and need to get the first set of parts) and as such, print times will most likely be constrained to time blocks. (ie. 4 hr blocks) This will give me a better idea as to how long it will take to get everything sorted. I'm not too pressed for time as I am still ordering (and awaiting delivery) for parts (China / US -> Vancouver)

I'm really excited about this build, looks like I'll be back for help along the way!

PS-> looking at doing the extended version
thanks!

Sort of depends on the print speeds/material used(cooling)/and layer height... but assuming PLA @40-50mm/s with .2mm layer height, most parts can be printed in under 4 hour blocks. Many of the bracket parts are duplicates, so you can do smaller jobs if needed.

If you know the printer and slicer you're using, you can build plates of parts now to get an idea of how long each will take.

Jan 29, 2016 - Modified Jan 29, 2016
Fireflynj - in reply to Printlyfe

That would be difficult to figure out. Might help if you can find out what software the library is using and get a copy of the config files. So you can setup on your own computer and play with it and can get an estimate of print times. It all depends on printers configuration and what you put in for slice resolution, # perimeters, and etc... A lot of time can be lost just experimenting with it.
also look at https://www.3dhubs.com/, an option is it have someone else to print it.

Thanks for the reply.
I'm going to find out some more info from library and see what I can't come up with, alternatively, will take your advise and set everything up and get proper build times etc at home before I go in.

Hello, anyone knows how to change the printing size on the ultigcode? PLEASE HELP!!!

I have no clue what you're asking.

Can I use a regular stepper with a coupling and leadscrew for the Z axis, or does it have to be all in one?

jffry7 pretty much spelled it out. You will want to make sure it's threading is Tr8*8. The old UMO Leadscrew used a different thread pattern that would require firmware changes and is also lower resolution.

If not mistaken measurements are for the non-coupling leadscrew as bed sits close to the stepper but you can either raise the z end points or lower the z motor mount (but may need to raise the whole platform). On the other hand there are cheaper ways to buy non-coupled ones unless you are re-using the existing stepper.

Lets wait for jasonatepaint I could be wrong

What is the print bed size?

Same as the UM2.

Hi, I would like to use RUMBA or MKS GEN as motherboard because my budget is pretty low. Does anyone knows where I can find the firmware or a guide for the Marlin customization?

Thanks in advanced.

Yeah, anything using the Mega2650 will work. Just a matter of configuring Marlin to work with the way you have things wired up. (Configuration.h, Configuration_adv.h, and possibly pins.h). In Configuration.h, choose your board and most of the work will already be done as long as you use the ports as labeled on the board. Otherwise, you may need to alter pins.h to match pin to particular functionality (fans, motors, heaters, etc).

As far as a guide, I would google "[your board type] and marlin firmware" and you're bound to find many guides for Marlin. If you're using the UM2 OLED controller you'll have to do some homework to figure out pins. But each pin has an official name that you can match on both controller and board... just a matter of finding documentation that has the pin-out.

Does anyone know if this will print at 60 microns or below like they claim the original um2 can?

Yes, you can. Just takes forever to print anything when the layer height is 0.06mm. I printed a sample Yoda model and I had to let it print over night.

Good to know my Robo3d is pretty slow to print anything so i don't mind waiting do you have any experience with PET filament i tend to use PET over ABS and or PLA

true, and pet also needs to be slightly slower to make sure it fully melts, going to be odd going to a teflon insulated hotend after using my e3dv6

Would it be possible to get the cad/solidworks/iges or whatever format file you designed these in? At lease for the parts that attach to the extrusion material? I want to build this but the extrusion I sourced i thing has a slight difference in shape and profile.

I would gladly post my remix on here as well with credit to your design.

Jan 1, 2016 - Modified Jan 1, 2016
jffry7 - in reply to JATMN

Its already on the "Thing Details" under summary "A360 Source Download Link"

JATMN - in reply to jffry7

Wow.. how did I miss that.. stupid
Thx.

jffry7 - in reply to JATMN

You're not the first...Me I missed it too the first time :D

Hello Jasonatepaint.

A questions.

I have a power suply of 19 volt and 6.32 amp. Do you thing I could use it for my build. Now I have a 24v power suply but I am having trouble whith it.

I am a little afraid that if I connect a 19v power supply my electronic card could be burst or break. Remember all devices (fans, led etc) was made built for 24v.

If you are using the UM2 24v heated bed, then you will definitely need to use a 24v PSU. A 24v hotend heater would work at 19v, just would heat slowly. The bed, however, would never reach temps needed for ABS (90-100c).

Using a 19v PSU won't break anything... but the heater cores expect 24v. The original UM uses 19v, but upgrading an UM to the heated bed, requires a 24v PSU...

I have had some bad luck with my slider blocks. The rods constantly fall/slide out of them causing obvious problems. I've been able to somewhat fix it with zip ties. Is this normal? Or are my blocks just loose?

I had the same issue with my original slider blocks. I used zip ties for a while, but eventually got fed up enough to switch to these: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-xy-bushing-slider-block
I've had very little issue with these new blocks, and was much happier as compared to the injection-molded slider blocks I initially used.

Afterthought: Another issue I had with the injection-molded blocks is that they were actually too "short", causing the rod spacing of the 6mm cross rods to be too small, which isn't exactly a good thing. The new slider blocks fixed that too.

I'm glad you're happy with them !

Anyone know if ultimaker board 2 can run a ramp's lcd?

Sure. Just a matter of matching pin outs. They all use the same pins... You'll have to do the research to figure out your cables and the corresponding pins on the board.

Thank you very much!!!

Reading through the comments and noticing that some of the parts sourced are having issues such as the heat bed, my question is, is this only a problem with the builting of the heat plate or is it also a problem using the prebuilt kit aswell.

Second question is about, controls. Are all the control boards and display working well, any issues with the part numbers listed? Also will these part bumbers work with the extended model build size?

my question is, is this only a problem with the builting of the heat plate or is it also a problem using the prebuilt kit aswell.

The official "heatbed upgrade kit" works just fine. I have ordered and used 2 of them w/o any issue. The quality control is good on these kits... the individual parts sold online seem to suffer quality control.

Are all the control boards and display working well, any issues with the part numbers listed?

Yes, they work just fine. Again, if you receiive one that is not working correctly, contact your seller. Out of 3 that I bought, 1 of them was bad, but it was returned/replaced w/o issue.

Also will these part bumbers work with the extended model build size?

Yes... same firmware, with the exception of printer's dimensions.

Are they still selling the official heatbed upgrade kit? I heard they were going to stop selling them. If now where can one get one?

I have not investigated this in depth, but I know they are still for sale. I know the US seller MakerShed stopped carrying it. It seems to be one of those parts that are in and out of stock often.

If you are in the US, you can get one here: http://fbrc8.com/collections/ultimaker-original-spare-parts/products/umo-heated-bed-upgrade-kit

Thanks for the quick response! Excellent news. I really appreciate all your hard work on this "thing", you have done a great job. Ill be ordering parts tonight for the build!

That where I got my heated bed as well, fast processing and I am half way across the world. I hope they dont stop selling them.

Are the heated beds optional or mandatory

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1182790

My back plate that came with the heatbed upgrade kit was touching the belts when the bed is raised so I have designed a new simple plate to replace it.

Ultimaker 2 Print Table Back Cover

This is just the heated silicon pad.... so you would need to use a high-temp silicone to adhere it to an aluminum plate. The official UM2 heatbed is a combination of the heatbed and an aluminum heat spreading plate.

It could definitely work... just return more work from you to assemble/fit the parts.

I am contemplating building this thing. Sort of just finished a Prusa I3 kit. What a nightmare. So I am wondering just how close to
the UM2 does this clone perform? What kind of printing speed and layer resolution are people who built this getting?

Unfortunately money is the big problem. I see I can get the original UM2 z axis motor and screw here http://fbrc8.com/products/z-motor-with-trapezoidal-lead-screw would this help achieve the same layer resolution?

Anybody printing the parts for sale?

I've been asked that question a lot... "What quality are you getting from your machine?"... and the simple answer is: It prints as well as my official UM2.... but that's because a lot of time went into making sure all the pieces/parts fit well and things are properly squared/level. The same machine, not built well and not properly calibrated will not print as cleanly.

As far as the z-axis motor/lead screw.... depending on the route that you go, you can get the z-axis motor + complete heatbed setup in the official "Ultimaker heatbed upgrade kit".... it definitely makes things easier in the build process.

Great build! Has anyone found a heat bed from aliexpress with correct resistance yet?

Hi Jason, I've got couple of questions, is it possible to convert my Makerfarm i3 to your UM2 clone and make it double the size? I have the RAMPS 1.4 board, would that work? I understand that making size bigger would need a bigger heatbed, different configuration of FW. Does anyone sell that big of a heatbed? And one last queston, what is this build style called?

Yeah, any Mega2560 board should work... just a matter of changing the firmware to fit your chosen board.

Search thru the comments and look for my answers on making a big Ultimaker. It's completely possible.... but would require you to redesign some parts. Your big problems will be weight of the heatbed... often really big beds are supported on 2 opposing sides to support the weight. Bigger isn't always better..

Build style? It's a Cartesian-style printer. Not sure if that's what you're asking.

I really like your design. Do you think that i could i build with your parts an Ultimaker 2 GO?

Yep. You'd just need to change your Z-axis aluminum extrusions. As far as what the new value is, you'll need to do some measuring/calculations based on the differences between the 2 printers.

Gantry_Z-Axis_Bottom_339mm_v2, what the difference between this and the standard? Looking at the dimensions in net fab, I can't see a difference. I don't want to print the wrong one. Thanks

Sorry for the delay. The _v2 versions of the files increased the tolerance on the linear rod holes from .1 to .2mm. It requires less sanding and fitting.

Ultimaker 2 print head and sliding block

Could you also post the inventor files from inventor 2013

Nov 20, 2015 - Modified Nov 20, 2015
karlzhao314 - in reply to anthony01

Download the Autodesk 360 files in Inventor format.

Nov 20, 2015 - Modified Nov 20, 2015

It's me again! Not sure if you remember me. I've started building my school's printer (which is this with some cost-saving modifications, along with a Chimera) and collecting parts for my own (which is this with a few changes to make it even more Ultimaker-like, as well as a 100mm extension on the Z axis to make it an extended). It's a joy to build and your instructions are very clear and easy to follow. For the frame I didn't even have to read the text; I just built it based off the excellent pictures.

Question time: are the XY motor mount spacers required? To me it seems like they just introduce another failure point in the system, and while I know the Ultimaker 2 had them, I believe they did only because their sheet frame was too deep where the motors were supposed to mount. It seems they could easily be removed now that we have 3D printed parts simply by extending the mount, or even just mounting it as-is and sliding the pulley further down the motor.

Anyways, the build has been great so far. I'm enjoying it a lot, and will post pictures of both printers when I'm done. Thanks again for the excellent design!

Question time: are the XY motor mount spacers required?

The spacers, as a separate part, isn't required. Where the motor sits does matter. The spacer puts the axel/pulley in alignment with the pulley on the linear rod. So you could extend the mounts to add the additional space there. The only reason I didn't do that was to save on plastic.

So before I commit to buying the Ali, do you think this will do the job? Some of the dimensions are different from the BOM Ali.

http://www.aluminium-profile.co.uk/acatalog/20x20-Aluminium-Profile--KJN992888.html

I don't want to waste money if it's wrong.

That'll work fine. The important part is that it's 20x20. Just be sure that the nuts you get are compatible with those extrusions.

Nov 13, 2015 - Modified Nov 13, 2015

Hi Jason,

I've bought heated bed upgrade kit from a local Italy store, 1 day of waiting time :) Anyway my plate doesn't have the hole to mount Z home position screw:

http://i.imgur.com/TOkT5JL.jpg

I think is not a complicate modification, I'll use wood cover to attach something that pushes down the Z home position switch...

Ultimaker changed the plate design. My guess is because they're using the same bed in all versions of the UM2.

What I did on my second build of the machine was to use the hole in this image: http://i.imgur.com/HAEVGY3.jpg

Since it's at the wrong point on the y-axis, you can use a screwhead on the bottom instead so that it touches the limit switch.

Just got an email that Makershed is discontinuing the Heated Bed Upgrade Kit.

This is an amazing project - thanks for sharing! I'm seriously considering building one, but I would want to build it right from the start to be direct drive with the E3D V6 hot end. To do this, should I just substitute the UM2 Printhead parts in the BOM with the parts on the direct drive extruder project?

Yes. You'll still need a small amount of teflon tubing, but you can skip all the UM2 printhead + extruder parts.

Just curious what others are finding when fitting the bearings and pulleys to the 8mm rods.

My bearings and pulleys are press-fit and don't slide on, neither do the pulleys. I can sand the inside diameter easily enough for the pulleys, but with the bearings having steel races its a little bit more work.

I bought my pulleys off RobotDigg and when I contacted them about the press-fit they said the rods are oversized. When I contacted the seller on Aliexpress they claim they haven't had any problems fitting the pulleys and bearings.

I do have one 8mm rod that the copper bushings gets very stuck on, I know for sure that rods tolerance is way off.

Nov 13, 2015 - Modified Nov 13, 2015

For what it's worth, I think RobotDigg is full of it. My rods are nice, USA made rods that are right at 8mm... The pulleys and bearings were at roughly 7.9-7.95. I sanded/filed the insides of the pulleys and bearings until everything fit right, but it was rather tedious.

Received replacement rods, pulleys and bearings, not from RobotDigg, but from an Aliexpress seller today. Everything fits the way it should, nice and smooth. I'm very happy the Aliexpress seller worked with me to resolve this issue. Can't say the same for RobotDigg. :(

I had provided caliper measurements of the pulleys and bearings they supplied, they measured 7.93mm and 7.94mm respectively. This was their response to those measurements, and the fact I said it was a problem.

I quote..."The pulley n bearing are for motor shaft or corresponding shaft which can be press fit. Over size will cause slip. Disregard the tolerance of the ruler, the pulley n bearing are the correct size." and "I am afraid the problem is the M8 rods is over size. And even though the pulley n bearing bore is 8mm and 8mm rod, it's press fit."

You're correct in saying they're full of it. I'm not sure how they measure something, but I guess 7.94mm is considered 8mm.

Yeah... I've been pleased with all the other stuff I ordered from there, but those pulleys and bearings were wonky.

Were the 5mm pulleys okay? Also was the double pulley under spec as well?

The 5mm pulleys are right on, and yes the double pulley is under spec.

Hey, sorry for the delay! I didn't actually order the 5mm pulleys from there, I had some from the printer I converted so I didn't need them. The double pulleys were machined correctly and fit great on all of my rods.

When I built mine, I had high quality 8mm linear rods that I cut to size myself. They were from an old delta printer build. I used the bearings from Robotdigg w/no issues. My guess is that the tolerances of the rods from China are just not accurate enough.

It's unfortunate because most of the trouble people have had has been around cheaper parts that don't pass quality/tolerances.

Nov 10, 2015 - Modified Nov 10, 2015

I have been trying to order the heated bed kit so I can finish, but it is sold out through fbrc8 and makershed. My other option is ultimaker directly, but they have a 3 week lead time. Has anyone found it for sale elsewhere within the US?

Nov 11, 2015 - Modified Nov 11, 2015
chkuentz - in reply to ZScott99

As of today (Nov 11) fbrc8 just got in new stock! :-)

(I had to sign up for notifications because of the same problem)

That's really unfortunate. :-( I would write Simon (at Fbrc8) and see if he can give you some insight as to when they will be back in stock. My guess is that if UM has a 3 week lead, that US resellers are going to be waiting at least that long too.

Ok thanks. Could anyone suggest where I can get the fan mount printed? I haven't got any ABS or kapton insulation or to print on. Would it be easier to buy the aluminium version?

Looking at the printed version it seems to have better performance than the ali version, is this correct?

Yeah, I've had better luck w/the ABS printed versions. You could always buy some ABS and print it on the new printer once it's all put together. You don't need kapton tape to print on... heat the bed to 100c and lay down some glue from a glue stick. You don't need a fan for ABS.

As far as kapton, I would get some... it's handy to have for all of your 3D printer building needs. :-)

My printer has a build area of 200x200, will I be able to print all the parts on that?

I positioned some parts in diagonal and they fit

LED mounts are slightly longer than 200 but they fit on my bed. The rest would be ok

This comment has been deleted.

Did you have any problems with any of the other parts fitting? I don't want to buy the wrong one and have issues with nuts and bolts not fitting.

No, no problems, just make sure to use the m3 t-nuts, and you'll be fine.

Thanks for the replys. Will any series 5 aluminium do the job for the frame? Looking online in the UK for some, the dimensions are slightly different than the Misumi aluminium. What I can buy in the UK has a different size hole in the middle and gap on the slot is 5mm rather than 6mm.

Thanks

Nov 9, 2015 - Modified Nov 9, 2015
puddled - in reply to danlad1631

Have you tried ooznest, that's where I get mine from . I just used standard v slot

Nov 9, 2015 - Modified Nov 9, 2015

I want to make the printer with two heads / extruders, but I have only one motor with 0.9 degree step. Tell me, in the firmware setup steps vary only in the two extruders at once, ie you can not use two different motors or different gear extruders? I want to do first head for 1.75 to and the second for 3mm filament ...

P.S. In the original printer motors covers are closed. Does anyone have some model of covers to print them?

Nov 10, 2015 - Modified Nov 10, 2015
scalanova - in reply to alec220

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:680379
You might need to print these on your Ultimaker after the build. They didn't fit on my MK2b bed :)

Custom engine covers (UM 2)
by mnis

I've had a look on the BOM and STL's but can't find the black cover with Ultimaker on it, it sits on build table.. Where can I find that?

Great build by the way.

The one that's used on my build comes with the official Ultimaker Heated Bed Upgrade Kit. It's made of wood. I stained mine black. You can get the DXF of the file from Ultimaker's github if you have access to a laser cutter.

User morfeushavana on here created a 3d printed version of the cover... He didn't post the source, but message him... he mentions below in the comments that he'd be willing to share them.

And yeah, the last "classy" option is what ZScott99 posted.... the actual UM2 cover. :-)

This comment has been deleted.
Nov 5, 2015 - Modified Nov 5, 2015

Great job jason but most of all thanks for sharing! I understand something like this takes a lot of time to organize and make. I do have a question if you don't mind. How big is the build volume?

Same as the real UM2.

230mm (X)
225mm (Y)
210-220mm (Z) -- depending on your hotend configuration.

Wondering, did anyone who bought the heated bed from Aliexpress,
Have it work correctly?
The right temp sensor and heats up to about 100 degrees for abs?
Thanks

The bed I bought from Aliexpress is 7 ohms resistance (whereas it should be around 3-3.5 ohms), it only gets to 60 degrees with 24V. I contacted a few eBay sellers and they all came back with the same resistance, so basically they are no good for this application unless you take the voltage up as alec220 did.
24 / 7 = 3.4 amps or 81 watts, whereas at 3.5 ohms it would be 24 /3.5 = 6.8 amps or 161 watts

I bought a bed for Aliexpress. To make it work properly, I picked up the voltage on the power supply to 27.5 volts and put the leads twice the thickness (soldered in parallel even same wire). Now it is heated to 110 degrees Celsius for 15 minutes.

Nov 5, 2015 - Modified Nov 5, 2015
racerxx - in reply to alec220

Thanks for the reply.
Could you post the link to the bed you bought?

I would buy the heated bed upgrade kit, but its sold out in the US.

This comment has been deleted.

What was the total cost of your build once you finished it, I am considering building my own so I would kust like to know

There's pricing in the BOM. It may be a bit out of date, but close enough for an estimate.

The BOM price doesn't account for build tools (solder, crimps, cable mgmt, etc)

Dear All,

All the electronics are working well (hotend, motors etc.) however, I have run into a problem with the OEM UM2 heat bed. I have the heat bed connected through a SSR relay to a 24v 300w PSU triggered by a Printrboard control board. Unfortunately, the heat bed takes around 15 minutes to heat up to around 80 degree Celsius and then levels off. This is not to the controller managing the heat but simply because the heat bed will not heat up any further. I have even directly connected the heat bed to the 24v 300w PSU without the controller and relay and the same thing happens.

I thought it might be a faulty UM2 heat bed so I bought a new one. No luck there.

Any ideas what may be causing this issue? I'm starting to think it may be the cheap Chinese heat beds fro aliexpress that is the issue.

Alex V

The bed is capable of going beyond 100c, so I'm not certain. "cheap Chinese heat bed".... is it a generic heat bed that's the same size as the official UM2 heatbed or is it an actual UM2 heat bed?

Because it's much easier to buy the "UM heatbed upgrade kit", I did that and it works as well as my real UM2... I have seen heatbeds on Aliexpress that were "real" UM2 heatbeds that has all the official silkscreening on it...Although, I don't know if they perform as well as real thing.

Send a link of the bed(s) you've bought... Other's here have built with cheaper beds... Maybe they'll respond.

Hi Jason,
As you say the bed has all the correct screenings, however, I suspect it is of inferior quality. Here is the one I bought. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-3D-printer-part-DIY-Ultimaker-2-UM2-hot-bed-aluminum-alloy-UM2-built-plate-heated/32395971114.html

Oct 27, 2015 - Modified Oct 27, 2015
jasonatepaint - in reply to AlexVen

Well, here's a couple things to consider while you're troubleshooting this...

-- Is the 24v PSU (which @300 watts should put out 12 amps) really handling the demand of the heatbed? It's possible that power supply just isn't giving the bed enough amps. Also, the mainboard's connector has 2 distinct inputs... this is because one rail of 24v runs the heatbed and the other runs the rest of the stuff. This is because the bed is an amp hog and will use as much as you give it. So if you've jumped those connections from a single rail on the PSU, that could be your problem.

-- Maybe the PT100 thermocouple is bad? If you have a thermometer, like this one you can use it to check across the bed to confirm it's heating evenly.

Hope ya figure it out.

Hi Jason,
I actually have two PSUs. One powering the controller and motors and the other powering the heat bed. I attached the heat bed directly to the PSU and still have a temp issue.

Re. the thermocouple, I am testing the temperature with the temp gun.

Another thing to check (if you've got a multi-meter) is the resistance across the heat bed. Someone further down in the comments had the same issue as you, and found that his heat bed was measuring roughly 6 ohms instead of 3. Since I=V/R, with a resistance double what it should be you'll be getting half the amperage that you need.

Hmmmm... sounds like you're on top of things. :-) The only thing you didn't mention was if you tried a different PSU. Are the 2 you're using the same type/brand? I still lean towards the PSU isn't putting out enough amps to get the bed above 80.

If you're using these types of power supplies, it's possible that it's just not pushing enough amps.... for this one they say 15 amps, but that's not sustained... the bed just pulls too much power and the PSU starts struggling and amperage drops too low to effectively heat the bed. The OEM PSU (brick) from UM is rated at 9.2 amps and does a good job of heating. I'm at 100c in 5-7 minutes, depending on starting temp. For PLA printing, it's only a couple minutes to get to 65c. I guess there's a reason it costs 4-5x more. :-p

All,

I bought a 24v 800w psu and hooked it up. The result? exactly the same! The bed struggles to get to around 65 degrees. This is with both heatbeds.

Any ideas?

Alex V

i'm about 90% through purchasing the components, and was wondering if it is worth trying a cheaper power supply and mounting it under the floor. Is this type of power supply suitable? Is there any reason I shouldn't go down this road?

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pc-Makerbot-New-DC-Power-Supply-24V-Reprap-Prusa-i3-impressora-3D-Printer-Kit-Block-Power/1997092499.html?spm=2114.031010208.3.2.hSW8SC&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_7_71_72_73_74_75,searchweb201527_4,searchweb201560_9

I did what you have suggested. I have a 24v 350W supply clipped to the side rails.
Hooking up the wires directly to the board is the hard part and as GayssianSphere suggested is probably not the best idea as it adds 2-3mm (depending on the wire gauge you are using) to the bottom of the board and this make the board extremely difficult to slide into the slot as designed.
I am trying to find a suitable plug and I'll change to the having the power wire come out of the machine and plug into the board as it was designed. Or my second option is to buy a clone of the Ultimaker power supply and mount it under the floor and then run the lead to the board as described above.

Thanks for the info, I might go with the power supply in the BOM and get more adventurous with a second build!

Hahah, sounds like a plan! I started with a Printrbot Simple 1405 Makers kit (4x4x4" build volume) and upgraded that over winter break of last year. It was a big learning experience for sure, and I took a lot of what I learned building that forward into this build. That's probably one of my favorite things about this hobby, there's always something new to try out!

I'd wait for someone who actually has an Ultimaker 2 control board (I assume that's what you're using) before making any decisions, but here's my two cents:

The UM2 controller board has a specific plug for power, as compared to just a couple of screw-terminals (i.e RAMPS 1.4, etc).
While it may be possible to just solder a couple of wires to the correct terminals on the bottom of the PCB, I would highly, highly, highly suggest against that. 24 volts may not sound like much, but 30 amps is more than enough to do some damage to your printer electronics, start a fire, etc.
The only option that would be remotely recommended would be to find the correct power plug that the UM2 controller board uses, and wire it to the output 24v power supply you linked.

Like I said, I would definitely wait for someone who has experience with this board to chime in, but I think you might be somewhat stuck with the official power supply.

You make a good point, I don't have any experience with the motherboard and that's why I thought it better to ask. I was thinking of getting the correct plug and wiring it up, however it probably is a big risk, one misstep and I might fry the board.

It will be interesting to hear if anyone else has any other experience with other power supplies. Aliexpress also has a 24v 12.3A Dell power supply with the same 4 pin plug. I wonder if the extra 3 amp capability would be of benefit with the heated bed?

In the BOM, under Heatbed (part-by-part), there is a 4-pin Kycon connector. That's the connector you need. It's completely possible to do. And to make it easier, here's an image of the pins and their required polarity. http://i.imgur.com/AkZkut0.jpg

Hi Jason, Thank you for posting the polarity picture. I have gone the part by part route for the heat bed, as once you convert from USD to AUD and then add $100 postage the official kit was up from $320 US to around the $500 AUD mark. I'm hoping that the heat beds on Aliexpress have the same power requirements as the official one and the listed power supply will be sufficient.

FYI, as an alternative last night I switched to an EZStruder setup for driving my 1.75mm filament. It was a pretty painless switch. Just changed the direction of the extruder motor in the marlin config file and then changed the e-steps to 94. So far it seems to feed my filament much more consistently. (but others may have better luck with the existing setup. Maybe I just had a weak spring)

I'll update once I have a chance to put some hours behind this new setup.

The EZStruder is a pretty nice extruder. I actually ripped one apart to get the Mk7 drive gear for my direct drive experiment. It's working out pretty well so far. However it needs a re-think/redesign as I'm losing some print area.

I think the "weak spring" diagnoses is correct. I had the same issue w/the first spring I used. It was more pronounced w/ABS since it's softer... the spring wouldn't apply enough pressure against and the filament would get stripped. The problem with the extruder in the bom is that it doesn't counteract the force that's applied against the motor shaft as you tighten the spring, which causes the motor to overheat and lose steps. This problem can be resolved with 2 bearings that sit on the other side of the shaft/gear to keep the axial force lower on the shaft, keeping the motor from working so hard.

yeah, if you're basing the direct drive off my e3d mount I'm not surprised about the lost print area. When I originally designed it, I knew the e3d was tall. So I just move it up and pushed the bearing mounts to the left and back. I think if I ever get around to a version 2 i'm going to sacrifice some Z and move the bearings and hotend closer to the original UM2 position. Well assuming everything would fit and not hit the frame.

Oct 21, 2015 - Modified Oct 21, 2015

Were you using the stock extruder before? I've heard many a horror story about how under-powered it is....
Although I don't currently have any issues with my aluminum extruder that came off of the Printrbot Simple that was frankensteined into this beast, I do really want to try out an geared extruder that has drive wheels on either side of the filament.

The stock extruder wasn't really weak... it just was not super great. :-) But the drive (knurled) gear and the nema17 motor was just fine with a bit of redesign. The extruder in the BOM have been on my official and clone UM2 for a while now and have been reliable. As mentioned above, the choice of spring is important.

I'm working on a design now that uses a PG35L lightweight geared nema 17 motor that's direct drive, getting rid of the bowden setup. The extruder sits on the gantry with the hotend, so things like retraction get easier and I can use filament like ninjaflex. It's the only filament type I have that I've never been able to get thru a bowden system.

http://i.imgur.com/SlVv7Uu.jpg

Oct 24, 2015 - Modified Oct 24, 2015

Having hung around the Ultimaker forums for a bit, it always seems like that's everybody's first suggestion, to ditch the stock extruder heheh. I'm sure it's probably more than fine for most cases - those guys there definitely like to push the limits of the machine.
I know there is a couple guys there doing direct-drive extruders with tiny Nema 17's. I'm sure you've checked it out, but if not, I can highly recommend doing so. Lots of good ideas all around!

I'm still working on getting my machine 100% to where I want it with the current single-extruder Bowden setup... after that I'll have to evaluate where I want to go next with it. I really want to figure out a dual extrusion setup that isn't terrible...

How hard would it be to take this existing design and just build a bigger frame to make it a bigger printer? Aside from getting larger belts and a larger bed, of course.

Oct 18, 2015 - Modified Oct 18, 2015

Here is a way to press in the flanged bearings..... This is a tight fit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6RaZ15ZnXnA

Tried the modifyed gantry design, but bearings were too Loose = Unprecise fitting!

For what it's worth for those who are looking at upgrading an existing printer, stay away from this linear rods: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-6mm-Shaft-376mm-15-Hardened-Rod-Rail-Linear-Motion-3D-Printer-XYZ-/171076245024?hash=item27d4f05620

My printer has been running for what, five days of light use now, and the 6mm rods have gouges in them. My linear bearings are fine (They're from two totally different sets of new bearings even), it's just that the case hardening is terrible on these rods I guess... Oh well. Looking at getting a refund from Ebay now and just put in an order at McMaster.

When ordering the 8 linear rods, do I go with
Print Head shaft X/Y diameter:6 mm length:320mm --- 1pcs (A)
Print Head shaft X/Y diameter:6 mm length:301mm --- 1pcs (A)
Or
Print Head shaft X/Y diameter:6 mm length:267mm --- 2pcs (B)
Im assuming its option A, but I'd hate to be wrong and have to return them.

Yep.. option A.

Check out Ultimaker's Github site: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2

They have all the parts w/specs and at the bottom of that list, the assembly manual. Lots of info there.

Oct 12, 2015 - Modified Oct 13, 2015

Whew, finally got it all put together and running. Once I hand-fit all the bearings and pulleys to the rods I then had to fight with the firmware for about four hours for the Printrboard Rev F that I'm using.... But, it's all done now. This thing runs like a champ and is stupidly quiet. Excellent work my friend!

Printboard F Rev ??, could you tell a little more about that??.

Oct 15, 2015 - Modified Oct 15, 2015

The Printrboard Rev F is just a controller board. I upgraded from a heavily modified PrintrBot Simple, and rather than buying a new controller board I just reconfigured this one. If I were to ever need to buy a new controller board, I would definitively go with a RAMPS board or something similar over the Printrboard... Not as many options.

I have 99% built this machine, just waiting on Pt100 sensor and heater block for the E3dv6 lite hotend I plan to use.
Whilst testing the heat bed heating, the temp never got above 65 degrees C. So out came the multimeter and the heat bed measures 7.3 ohms so only about 65Watts of heating, like no where near enough although it did amazingly well to get to 65 degrees C. This is a chinese heatbed from Aliexpress.
Could someone measure the resistance of a working heatbed for me please, I suspect it will be around 3 ohms.
TIA

This afternoon I going to measure it. I bought it from Aliexpress to. I can reach 100 degrees but I had to isolate the heat bed to improve the velocity to reach to that temperature and avoid to lose it quickly.

http://imgur.com/8LOjFJN

I have cardboard under my heat bed with Aluminium tape, not quite as neat as yours.
A kind gent from the Ultimaker forum measured his genuine heatbed at 3.8ohms. So I had a hard look at the chinese copy and they use the correct mask but their layer thickness is too thin, hence the higher resistance.
Ordered a genuine heat bed, now another 2 week wait. I will get this thing running sometime .......

Well, fudge. I got the last of my parts in last night and got the frame built. I went to start on the gantries, but it seems like all of the F688Z bearings and pulleys I got from RobotDigg are under-sized on the I.D (7.92mm). I'm not sure what to do at this point... They're all too tight to fit on my 8.00mm rods...

I had the same issue... Try with a hammer, it's pretty stiff you shouldn't brake it. You can also warm the pulleys and freeze the rods....

How has everyone's experience been with Robotdigg and Aliexpress? They both seem to have questionable reviews about them.

Robotdigg worked out well for me - although shipping was $25... but I can't complain because it was decently fast. Aliexpress is just like eBay, so YMMV between sellers. Thus far I've gotten everything except two parts, but those should be on the way. Shipping is free/cheap for what you need from there, so it's definitely slow coming from China.

Awesome files! Has anyone scaled this slightly larger for say a 10x10" or 8x12"? I'm wondering if that 50 to 100 mm would be to much for the rods or if one could get away with that upgrade with out redesigning everything.

I think it would mostly come down to finding parts in the length you need. I would take the CAD file and expose just the frame and things attached to the frame (except the bed)... then slice the entire thing down the center on both X and Y axis. The stretch it out to the size you want. You can then extend one side of the rods and extrusions.... That would at least allow you to measure out the parts that would be to be replaced.

I finished printing all of the parts tonight... now I'm just waiting on everything to get here from China heehee. I'll be keeping an eye on the comments here and I'll definitely be posting up a finished build in a month or so!

Sep 26, 2015 - Modified Sep 27, 2015

Hello Jasonatepaint,
Why the 24v fan on extruder always are connected?, I have to unplug the printer of the power supply for they switch off.
What I have to do to they only start when the printer begin to print?

The most important... where I have to connect that fans (24 volt) see picture http://i.imgur.com/ranQHyc.png

Another question.....

Exist any way that the printer when finish of print some piece it switch off alone??

At the same time, do you know some pin of the electric board which is free and I can use to get a signal for turn of the printer at the end of the pirnt process. Something like when the printer has finished and go to the 0,0,0 position o axis x,y,z for this pin I can get a electric signal to command with another arduino card'?

Sep 28, 2015 - Modified Sep 28, 2015

The cooling fans are 12v, wired in a series (black wire of one fan is wired to red wire of other fan..the other red/black are wired to the Fan PWM port.

The other 24v connector in your image is an extra 24v output for other accessories. The PWM port is controlled via the control panel. The other 24v output is on all the time when the main board is switched on. If either of those stay on all the time, regardless of the power switch, you have blown out something (a diode?) that causes power to flow all the time. This doesn't affect the operation of the board, but the power is always on.

To have the printer turn itself off after printing, the easiest way is just use a timer and just set it for longer than the print job. The more difficult way would be to build a circuit that listens for some signal (voltage possibly) that triggers a Sold state relay that cuts the power. I'm sure someone's built something similar...just gotta go find it. ;-)

Does not work it. It is doing the same stuff. I turn on the printer and the startup appears on screen. when I select continue the bed goes up whithout stop and hit the noxle.

WHAT I AM DOING WRONG???? Some one knows????

I think you may have already resolved your issue, but if you haven't... as boelle said, the easiest solution is to just take the plug, turn it 180 degrees and plug it back in. Unfortunately, with this plug type, you can't do that.

I'm guessing that you used my photos for reference, but when putting the crimp connectors into the plug, you did it backwards... maybe?

So if your wires are in this order (for example): red, gray, yellow, green... switch it so it's green, yellow, gray, red.

Sep 26, 2015 - Modified Sep 26, 2015

All fix!!!!!!. Isn´t a problem with the stepper wire connector. I have uploaded a bad firmware. At the configuration h file the z axis indicated 330 mm of lengh (fixed uploading the correct firmware). Thanks you to all. Jasonatepint, you are the best!!!. Regards

Hi, Did you end up switching the cables around as mentioned or was it a firmware issue? I have the same Robotdigg motors and cables, and have just got to the stage of wiring everything up.

Thanks

Sep 26, 2015 - Modified Sep 26, 2015

Please Jasonatepaint, I let you the picture of my stteper motor wire connection. Please tell me if the wires are in the correct position. I think that they are in the wrong position, because when the bed must go down, it goes up.

This happen at the begining in the first set up. First Z- end stop switch stuck . I fix change it to close position. Now, when the ed go up to adjust the distance to the noxle, he does not stop and hit the noxle. I don´t whats is wrong. Someone knows??

Please I need someone give me a answer!!Help!!

My stepper motors are fron robotdigg.

http://s13.postimg.org/h18gx6ycn/Z_Stepper.png

http://s28.postimg.org/l1pb7whq5/board_conections.png

jut turn the Z stepper connector 180 degrees... it can happen to the best of us

I do not understand you 180 degrees??? what that meaning?. You say that I have to change the red with green, and yellow with grey is that??

you will have to do the same for X and Y also as they are also wired wrong

how is extruder stepper connected in the other end (motor end)?

the wire of the stepper motor did not came with connector. the wires go out directly from stepper and I wired it like you see in the picture, recomended by jasonatepaint.

you say there is no connector on the stepper?

http://s13.postimg.org/h18gx6ycn/Z_Stepper.png

shows that there is a connector.....

but it does not matter.... if the stepper turns the wrong way you just rotate the plug on board 180 degrees

how does the other steppers look like? also like http://s13.postimg.org/h18gx6ycn/Z_Stepper.png

??

Sep 26, 2015 - Modified Sep 26, 2015
morfeushavana - in reply to boelle

No sorry, the stepper motor in Z, X, and Y axis have conector like the picture. And following your advice I will change the wire like you say red with green and yelow with grey. The stepper motor of the extruder is which has not came with connector and I wire and plug to the board following the jasonatepaint indications. See pictures

http://i.imgur.com/rmEd9NQ.png

http://s13.postimg.org/h18gx6ycn/Z_Stepper.png

http://i.imgur.com/sBIA3Sj.png

but yes looking at your picture you are 100% correct on what to do

Then I have to swap the wires??? in thi order

red with green
yellow with grey

Please confirm it. I can´t find information on internet.
Thats is that I have to do?

but you have to do it for X and Y also

100% correct

its common knowledge on stepper that if they turn the wrong way you just rotate the plug 180 degree

I will do it now. I hope that work. I have to change to y-end and x-end stops. thanks you

Sep 26, 2015 - Modified Sep 26, 2015
boelle - in reply to morfeushavana

you have read the assembly manual right?

https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/um2%20assembly%20manual%20V1.1%20_english.pdf

page 66 - there you can see the order of the wires

change blue and black

change red and green

I do not have blue or black wire. My stepper motor are form robotdigg and the wire colors are , red, yellow, gray and green..

http://s13.postimg.org/h18gx6ycn/Z_Stepper.png

http://s28.postimg.org/l1pb7whq5/board_conections.png

look above for right answers

Hello Jasonatepant. Please help wih this.

Which is the ormal position for the end swicths

ERROR - STOPPED

Z switch stuck

Please help with this

All 3 switches should be wired as "Normally Open" (NO)... which means that the connection between the wires are not connected (or closed).

As mentioned, a multimeter can detect this in "continuity mode"....

if something is pressing the switch then you found the problem

if nothing is pressing the switch first remove it from printer and messure the switch with a multimeter

sometimes a switch is just bad when you get it

Do you have updated print pics? I have limited access to a UM2 Extended and im getting much better quality prints than your Yoda in the sample pics or the youtube vid. Very tempted to do this build.

I think the photo just misrepresents the quality. The LEDs, camera flash and the macro lens really highlight the layers... You can tell by the large depth of field by using a large aperture under mostly low light. The black Yoda's finish is silky smooth and at 100 microns, you barely see the layers in normal (non-harsh) light. The blue Yoda has a bit of under extrusion, but that's because printing at 200 microns, you're pushing out 2 times the amount of plastic and I was printing too fast (and/or not hot enough) to push the plastic out consistently...

I have a real UM2 and get the same quality on it as I do on this clone. The magic to good printer quality is taking your time with the fit and assembly while you're building. The clone has the same hardware (basically) and same configuration of parts... the reason a real UM2 is high quality is because the Ultimaker guys professionally build the printers. You can do the same thing, it just takes time. Don't rush it.

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Sep 26, 2015 - Modified Sep 26, 2015
jasonatepaint - in reply to boelle

A 600mm version: a lot. You'd need to beef up quite a few parts. I'd look at 3030 or maybe 2040 extrusions...which means you'd have to redesign most, if not all of the parts. Also w/600mm, the 6mm rods that hold the printhead on the X/Y axis might have too much flex. Can it be done? Yes... but you'd be designing from scratch in a lot of areas.

EDIT: Also how many of the printed parts could be replaced with ready made metal versions? like motor brackets etc

The outer brackets that hold the extrusions together could be. I didn't because they're expensive if you buy the official Misumi parts. The Chinese parts are questionable as to fit/finish. All other parts are designed to affix components at specific locations. Not all parts have freedom for movement and need to be exactly where they're designed to be.

EDIT2: I see in the BOM you have steppers with 0.9 step angle... what good or harm would it do to replace the 1.9 degree with 0.9 ?

Totally doable... just have to edit the firmware to account for 400 steps per rotation instead of 200

EDIT3: Found a missing item in the BOM: Limit Switch (X-axis needs long arm)

These are the ones I used on my second build: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/10-Pcs-Micro-Limit-Switch-Long-Lever-Arm-SPDT-Subminiature-Snap-Action-CNC-Home/32236046590.html

EDIT4: I have made a copy of the googledoc and updated the prices:

Thanks! :-)

EDIT5: Many might run in to trouble...

Really? I did not know that. I opened an account a long time ago, but just as a person, not a business. You should only need a couple feet of both sizes. I bought both as a roll, as it's good for other projects too. Makes things clean and easy to deal with. Also, add heatshrink tubing so you can put it at both ends of the sleeving to keep it from fraying. I didn't put all that in the BOM because I sort of considered it not required and up to the builder.

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Any of those would work. Only X axis needs a long lever.

As far as plexiglass or dibond goes, no real opinion. Cost would be my deciding factor.

I don't remember the exact length of bowden.... most places sell it by the foot. I'd get 3 and have some extra for other filament guide projects.

about the alu extrusions.... i got an reply from misumi europe and they dont sell to private individuals...

http://www.motedis.com/shop/Slot-profiles/Profile-20-I-Type-slot-5/Profile-20x20-I-Typ-slot-5::1076.html

seems to be a choice

Those seem fine. The only thing you might want to check is that the assembly nuts you buy are compatible. They appear to be the same style, so shouldn't be an issue. "Shouldn't"... famous last words. :-)

hehehehe...

i just hope i dont run in to other supplie issues... could of course always try and ask the local pizza delivery if i can use their company info to get the "real thing" and just have it delivered direct to my door

me is going to build this in stages as i'm not employed and have to watch the cash level not going to low

thanks for that.... the link for the printhead indicates 3mm filament.... do you also have a link for 1.75mm?

i found this one: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/3D-printer-parts-Ultimaker-2-UM2-all-metal-aluminum-alloy-printing-head-hot-end-kit-set/115344_32287260492.html

but not sure on it

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Sep 20, 2015 - Modified Sep 20, 2015

Hello Jasonatepaint. I am a few step of finish my build. I haven´t connected it yet to the power source. I am realized that when I manually get up the entirely heatbed (with already every thing mounted, plate, glass etc) it does not kept in the up position always come down few centimeters. it this normally??
I explain a little more
I manually positioned the hotbed in the up position near to the nozzle
http://i.imgur.com/cqZAWv8.png,
When i left hold it in that position the entirely of hotbed lowered a few centimeters alone. Is this normally??

http://i.imgur.com/cqZAWv8.png

Hi Morfeushavana,

Could you please post another picture of your entire work ? Love the color ;)

Ultimaker 2 Aluminum Extrusion 3D printer

Hiya! I'm planning on converting my existing printer (a heavily modified Printrbot Simple 1405) over to this frame design, as I feel like it would be a much more stable and space efficient printer... Anyways, I want to use the existing 220x220mm heated bed and aluminum build plate from my current printer for this upgrade. Getting a piece of aluminum sheet stock machined to match the official Ultimaker support plate but with the correct hole placement to fit my 220mm heated bed is not an issue. However, I wondered if you had any guidance on where I should position it?
I was planning on essentially centering it in the same place that the official heatbed goes, but I wanted to make sure that the printer wouldn't have any issues reaching all four sides (i.e do I need shift the bed forward or back to make use of all of it?)

I do realize that I will lose a small amount of print real-estate by going this route, but at this point I figure saving an extra few hundred bucks would definitely be worth it. I plan to have the mounting holes for the official heated bed cut into my custom plate as well, so if I want to upgrade down the road the option is open.

Sorry for the delay!

The XYZ axises can be set in the firmware. You can either: A) Place the heatbed towards the back left (X:0, Y:0) and then just adjust the MAX lengths (X_MAX_POS, Y_MAX_POS) in the firmware. Or B) Center the heatbed and change both MIN and MAX for X and Y.

Sep 20, 2015 - Modified Sep 20, 2015

Oh yeah! I also would love to reuse the stepper motors from my current printer for the X & Y axis - would the 46mm long steppers fit without interfering with the bed?

Thanks for all your help!

46mm may be pushing it. I just checked with an extra 47mm I had laying around and it clears the heatbed for the Extruder, Z, and X axis... but NOT the Y Axis.. it clips the cover on the bed. The cover is not necessary and will probably work then. You can always just get a single 40mm for the Y-axis.

Ah, awesome! Since I'm not buying the official heat bed kit I won't have the cover in the way anyways... I'll see how it works once I get it all put together and I'll go from there... I appreciate your help!

Try to visualize it with autodesk online to see if the nema 46mm will fit. I have also the same question : I want to reuse my MK2B heatbed to fit this printer 220 x 220. I think that we should buy/cut the ultimaker 2 aluminium plate that moves vertically on the Z axis. The point is that the official heatbed over the Z aluminium plate is also made of aluminium on one face (toward the glass). It means that we have to cut an aluminium part that makes the interface between the Z axis aluminium plate and our mk2b heatbed (with the correct holes on it).
The glass retaining clip will not fit in this case... because the Z axis aluminium plate is bigger than the mk2b heatbed and its glass.

I've actually got the aluminum plate modeled and ready to be cut with the waterjet I have access to. I just need to buy the aluminum stock and I'll be ready to go. If you want, I could upload the Autodesk Inventor file along with a .dxf of the plate as a remix?

With pleasure my friend ;)

It's posted! Let me know if you have any questions!

Hello Jasonatepaint.
I have this issue. I am wiring my build. I now realized that the value of the pt sensor of the hotend and the heatbed are differentes. The heatbed PT 100 sensor is working fine I think, increase the resistance value while I am heating the bed. At 24 ºC it have a resistence value about 114 ohms. Until here all ok.
Now I have two PT 100 sensor that I have buyed, one from aliex.... another one from robot.... boths give me a value totally different among they and different from the value of the pt sensor of heatbed. One 8 ohms another one of 160 ohms Both are new

My question. Does the PT100B sensor of hotend must to give the same resistence value with the temperature increase that the heatbed sensor?

Someone could help me with this?

Fixed...... A bad conection or resistence on plugs

Very good! :-)

Sep 17, 2015 - Modified Sep 17, 2015

Hello ! I did blow out the fan PWM by using a too low voltage fan at first. Now they only work at 100% rpm. So I would like ton invert the Fan PWM and the LED PWM wiring (I don't need to regulate the light intensity). Thus, I have to edit the firmware in order to make the LED PWM output respond to M106 command and vice versa.... Do you know how to do it ? Will the fan regulation settings in the TUNE menu work as well if I implement this modification ?

If you're not planning on using 2 hotend/extruders, you can use the second hotend 24v output, which uses PWM too. Just do this:

Edit the firmware file: pins.h
Line 1187, change:
from: #define HEATER_1_PIN 3
to: #define HEATER_1_PIN -1

Line 1205, change:
from: #define FAN_PIN 7
to: #define FAN_PIN 3

Save and upload to the board. Your fans will work w/PWM off the 2nd hotend output. If the old fan outputs still work at 100% (255), you can always use it for something else as a constant 24v.

How do I know this? I did the same thing on my first board. :-D

Great ! I will do that, many thanks !

One more.....
I have buyed a cheap heatbed plate. I have realized that she does not come with the temperature sensor. Somebody know which is the temperature sensor specification to buy it? http://i.imgur.com/5UwVa4C.png

Nov 21, 2015 - Modified Nov 21, 2015
alec220 - in reply to morfeushavana

I forgot to order the bed thermocouple and put it on the hot bed thermistor, connect it to an analog input and bit changing firmware page Pince prescribing the sensor pin 15, respectively, and selecting the configuration page right thermistor.
configuration.h

define TEMP_SENSOR_0 20

define TEMP_SENSOR_1 20

define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0

define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 10

pins.h

if MOTHERBOARD == 72

define KNOWN_BOARD

/*****

  • Ultiboard v2.0 pin assignment

define HEATER_BED_PIN 4

define TEMP_BED_PIN 15

Where did you buy it ?

Sep 14, 2015 - Modified Sep 14, 2015
morfeushavana - in reply to -Nx-

Hello Jasonatepaint, first, thank you for all your help. If I am building this is for your constantly support.
I have a few more questions for you.
For my build I will use this power supply http://i.imgur.com/bAeEEY3.jpg, at the begining, I have the enough money to buy the correct supply. I know the card use 24 volt DC. I want use the correct plug (I have buyed http://i.imgur.com/08gFdgQ.png). But I need to know if I have to connect both pin to + and - like I show in the picture. I think is correct but I prefer ask first. I have to connect it like in picture?? http://i.imgur.com/bH7c9ae.png.

Another doubt is how to connect the stepper motor to card. For my building I have to buy the connectors and pins, but I dont know in which position I have to plug it to the card. Could you give a light in this?? http://i.imgur.com/ETm6dDc.png

And the last question for today is if you can post here a direct link to download the firmware to your built. Remember I am rookie and I haven´t any knowledge of arduino and how to program. Thats why I appreciate if you can post a guide step by step to how I can do it.

Thanks you for all, I am sure that all this question and answers will help to everybody that want to build this beutiful machine.

Here ya go: http://i.imgur.com/AkZkut0.jpg The polarity is based on looking at the plug. Be aware of that when wire it up.

As far as wiring the Nema 17 stepper motors, the color codes vary from manufacturer. Attached are 2 different printers with different color codes. Hopefully one of your motors match something here. If you got your motors from robotdigg.com, your wire colors should match the second photo, with the gray wire. On a side note, you'll see that I got better at crimping on the second image. :-)

http://i.imgur.com/WK8wrZo.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/tW2lsGb.jpg

As far as the firmware goes... did you read the last page on the instructions about uploading/modifying the firmware? It depends on what you've changed or what you're using. My original BOM had the wrong stepper (1.8 instead of .9 degree), but could be fixed in the firmware (or via MCode commands to the printer). If you are using the .9 degree stepper on the extruder motor and are using the same extruder/heatbed/temp sensors, then you shouldn't have to do anything. There is already a version of UM2 firmware on the board, although I can't say which version. You can check it out via the display --> advanced settings. All changes that need to be made are within 1 file "configuration.h".

Hope that helps!

Thanks you a lot!!!

I know now how to wire and plug the stepper motor to electronic board. Yes, I buyed all the stepper motors on robotdigg as you post in your BOM. Now I am waiting to recieve the 0.9 degree stepper. I do not want to make any change to the firmware. I didn´t know that the board come with a version of UM2 firmware. When I´ll go to plug it at first time i will revise and check it. I suppose that for upload the firmware to the board it must to be connect it to a power supply and to the pc together. Until I do not have all the parts to finish my build I can´t plug it to the 24v source supply.

Which device is this on the picture you post??