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Greg's Hinged Accessible Extruder

by GregFrost, published

Greg's Hinged Accessible Extruder by GregFrost May 4, 2011

Description

This is an update to my Accessible Wade's Extruder.

The idler is now hinged using an M3 screw.
I have also added support for the central part of the 608 idler so that there is no need to use washers to space the bearing away from the plastic.

I have been using this design for a while now and love it.

Changing filament is a simple as compressing the spring then whipping out the old filament and poking the new one in.

UPDATE: 6 Aug 2011 - Add arcol (cory75 thing:10532) and wildseyed hotend mount options. Im not overly happy with the asymmetry of the arcol option.

Recent Comments

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I'm looking for a good bowden extruder design to mount of the top of my mini kossel, feeding directly down. Can this be setup as a bowden just by attaching the tube on the bottom? Also, will the herringbone gears work fine on here? I like the design and I hope I can get it to work. Thanks.
Hi
Whats the bearing size?
Where do I find the GHAE that has the fan mount holes in the base?

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Balou

License

GNU - GPL
Greg's Hinged Accessible Extruder by GregFrost is licensed under the GNU - GPL license.

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Instructions

The hotend mounting configuration can be selected in the openscad file.

simply call the wade module like this (which is how the included stl was made):

wade(hotend_mount=mendel_parts_v6_mount);

If two mounts have compatible holes, you can include the holes for both like this:

wade(hotend_mount=mendel_parts_v6_mount+peek_reprapsource_mount);

Once it is printed, you will need to trim off the little support piece for the idler hinge and drill the support membranes from the hobbed bolt hole and motor mount holes.
I'm looking for a good bowden extruder design to mount of the top of my mini kossel, feeding directly down. Can this be setup as a bowden just by attaching the tube on the bottom? Also, will the herringbone gears work fine on here? I like the design and I hope I can get it to work. Thanks.
Hi
Whats the bearing size?
Where do I find the GHAE that has the fan mount holes in the base?
Is there a source for all those variables? For example jhead_mount=256. What does this mean? Some reference would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
This is a great design, and will be replacing the stock "Steve's Extruder" on my Rostock as soon as I get the hardware together. My only gripe with this Thing is the amount of searching I had to do to find the hardware list necessary to assemble this. You'd think that'd be easier to find, considering that you can't build one without that information.

Do you think you could include a list of required hardware in the Thing Info, just for the sake of having that info in one easy-to-find location?
I'd never noticed this but there's an error in the scad. I've rendered many Greg's accessible extruders and was always irritated that the holes for the motor still had to be drilled through, and the hole in the center where the hobbed bolt goes needed to be awkwardly drilled through the bearings.

Yeah. That's because there are references to a variable called "layer_height" that doesn't exist.

There is a "layer_thickness" variable set to 0.4, but no layer_height. I set it to 0.4 as well, and sure enough, the motor holes now go pretty much all the way through and the hole in the center where the hobbed bolt goes is there.

Rather than upload a derivative that fixes this, I figured I should post that here on the original part. Maybe Greg can upload a v4 within this thing id (I know 8252 by heart) to fix this problem.

Thanks!
I'm using the MakerFarm version of this. What I noticed is as the motor tries to extrude, the large gear turns, turning its inset nut with it. This of course turns it clockwise along its axis, toward the extruder side, subtly tightening the hobbed bolt against its washer/bearing on the other side. The hobbed bolt eventually gets shoved up against the washer/bearing so tightly that the motor can't extrude. Is there any workaround for this? Has anyone experienced this?
Lock a second nut against the first to prevent if from tightening itself.
I appreciate the advice, I did try locking an outer nut against it but figured it loosened since in practice the extruder locked up, and in theory during forward rotation the large gear would want to break away from it by moving toward the extruder. It'd be difficult to tighten an inner nut against it given the narrow space. Maybe I have a different problem, but I can't imagine why else it would extrude normally for several minutes and then become slower and then refuse to move at all?
On the idler...
By removing the +2 and +1's on the corner boxes to form the rounded corners but keeping the actual code for rounded corners, the part renders and exports cleanly.
The odd issue ppl have been having with those towers and wrong slicing seems to be caused by the expansion of the part you cut with vs the target. Why would this work? Just made the cutting part same height and sims as the part to cut and problem gone?
Why is the hole closed for the hobbed bolt? When I print this it goes weird, just like the older version. The older version doesn't even leave enough space for a bearing on the gear-side of the extruder.

I am trying to print the one with the extra holes in the bottom.
Hi! I'm trying to use the large & small gear in an unrelated project. Please: What's the ideal distance between the gear centers? I don't know the right way to measure it myself.
sorry, where is the configuration.scad file?
Get this thingiverse.com/thing:17030 and get the source from my github
Thanks
Which motor uses this extruder? Is it a NEMA 17?
Thank you
I created a stylish arched mount adapter so that this extruder can easily be installed on a Thing-O-Matic using the holes already there. Check it out: thingiverse.com/thing:40237
What program can i open this with to get actual dimensions. Or can you post that data?
Any idea why Skeinforge would forget to print an infill on the central part of the large gear hub? I am trying to print parts for my MendelMax on a friends Cupcake without changing his toolchain.
Could be their layer height is too high for the model. If you compile the latest scad from my GitHub you can choose the layer height.
Why do M3 nuts not at all fit into the slots at the top of this? Is it not designed for M3? Or is that a bug? They're super hard to open up with an x-acto, and I cracked one side forcing a nut in (with a hammer - after trying to open it up with an x-acto). Perhaps its because I used PLA, which may be harder? Anyway I'm mounting this to a bowden tube so PLA is fine for me.

Also, as someone pointed out, this references both layer_height and layer_thickness variables, but only one is defined. It will not build properly unless you add
layer_height=layer_thickness (or vise-versa, whichever one is defined, I forget).
After trying to adjust it with a tiny multitool-chisel and ending up having the nuts too loose, I eventually cut the slots on mine out to fit M4 nuts
&
amp; bolts.
I am having the same problem. So frustrating!

Why release something with nuts traps that are too small? :'(
Trying to slice this up in Slic3r and the result, when loaded in Pronterface, is very strange. Slic3r told me that "the model has overlapping or self-intersecting facets," and that it tried a repair. I started the print just for kicks and it is clearly not right!
slic3r is pretty picky about its stls. run them through netfabb cloud first. but really you should be printing this: thingiverse.com/thing:17030
I still get the same error in Slic3r but the output looks okay...
Slic3r .6 doesn't slice it properly. However, if one goes back to .56 it slices and prints perfectly. .57 also has the bug....
I can't get the idler to slice and print right? I printed the v6 perfectly but the idler only prints two separate small towers.
I am having the same problem. There are some strange looking things on the idler when I press F5. They are gone when I press F6, though. Slic3r reports intersecting faces and slices the model into two seperate small towers.
The provided idler.stl here on thingiverse turns into the same two crappy tower things when sliced with slic3r. *DONT_KNOW*
This does not make any sense. Removing the rounded corners made Slic3r slice the idler correctly. Also, it doesn't whine about self-intersecting faces anymore.
I'm using Slic3r as well, what program did you remove them in?
So I ran the file through netfabb's free service and it came out correctly.
I'm having a hard time getting this to compile correctly. I have placed it in the folder and all dependencies are met (no errors either). However, the final geometry is created with the hole for the hobbed bolt completely missing. Can somebody send me an STL compiled for the groovemount option?
There's a membrane there, yes. It would never bridge correctly without. Stab it with a screwdriver or drill it out.
Where does one find the configuration.scad and inc/parametric_involute_gearV5.0.scad files #included in the .scad files?
Answering my own question: These SCAD files should be put in a github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel directory.
I like the upgrade from the original Wade Extruder, but I have one suggestion. This extruder was designed before breakaway support material was routinely used, and the supports designed into this version seem inadequate(undersides can peel away). I would suggest providing a version with no support so that users can add their own.
I agree with Triffid. This would be a mess with breakway support. But it would be nice to offer a model free of that stuff - for example if someone has an SLS machine at work, or if they'd rather order one of these from Shapeways or something.
fwiw, I personally prefer the gantry-style support in this to other types of automagically generated support
Hi

Is there any chance you can post this in .step format (or any other native CAD)? I want to add slight modification so it can fit my Z-axis mount which is other than standard.
Someone should make a library of about a hundred different gears that would all work together.
Looks good. Is There a full tutorial for this extruder somewhere? I'm new to this 3D printing so unsure what hotend to fit on this.
This extruder is almost identical in build to all the other Wade's variations, including the original Wade's. It uses the same hardware, aside from dropping 2-3 bolts for the filament holder and fitting a bolt into the bottom to act as a hinge.

Other than that, searches for how to hob the bolt for a normal Wade's will work just fine.

As for hotends, check the .scad file with OpenSCAD (look up some tutorials for some basics on how to use it) and set it to the hotend you want to use it with, it will then generate the proper file for that hotend.
Could someone possibly modify the wildseyed for a 16mm barrel rather than 13mm? I would really appreciate it. thanks
Found a small bug in gregs-wade-v3.scad - there are references to both layer_height and layer_thickness in the code, but only the latter is defined. My extruder body came out missing most of the through-holes!

I'm using the felt-branch configuration.scad, so it may be that layer_height was defined in the old one and not in this one.
great design, totally unfamiliar with openSCAD, installed it, looked at it, and after 30mins was still as confused as I was when I started. Can anyone generate an STL for the ideler for the mendel V6 but instead has a 16mm PTFE groove instead of a 12mm one.
Hi, would anyone be able to upload a 16mm version?
Could you upload the stl for this? Also, I was wondering - how do you affix the extruder? Surely wedging it in the hole is not enough to stop it falling out under pressure from the plastic being pushed in downward. In the original Wade design, there were 2 small screw holes at the side.
Most of the newer hotends are the groovemount variety, which affixes them via a holder to the carriage, and the extruder attaches directly atop it with the same bolts.. This kinda holds everything together.
Ping me on the FV reprap forum group to remind me. I'll build one this weekend for ya.
What vitamins are needed for this extruder? Is it possible to get a BOM for it? Thanks!
I would also like a BOM.
Great looking design. I'd like to try this but am unable to use openscad (my PC is and old fart, like me). Could someone possibly generate an stl for a makergear groove mount hotend?
Question: Could the filament guide for this extruder developed elsewhere on this site by Ben Jackson be integrated into this build package? Might make an already very good looking extruder even better :-)

thingiverse.com/thing:7700
I like having access to the hobbing so that I can see if there has been a filament strip. With a properly managed spool, you shouldnt have a problem.
I've had serious trouble getting my filament to stay in the hobbed section of the bolt, it was constantly wandering off, away from the gears. My spool is properly mounted, never had a problem with the classic Wade's. However, thingiverse.com/thing:14960 fixed it for me, so i'd suggest for it to be included as a default part, it might save someone some trouble. ;)
Hey could you please upload the stl's for the makergear hotend. AS i am a total openscad noob. My computer can't even run the config. installer package so i cannot do the export and changes myself. :(

~Thanks
C.Cotter 24/7
Nice and clever design! Does anybody know if an arcol hot-end mounted on this will fit inside the lm8uu X-carriage?
I dont think it will.
Just found out the hard way. Should have bought myself a more compact hotend...
I just printed lm8uu x carrige from joem, what can fit my archol hotend, I cant wait to try it :)

thingiverse.com/thing:10885
if you're intending to print 1.75 filament, don't forget to change the 'filament_diameter' to 1.75. I made the filament feed hole 2.0, but that was too small and I had to widen it so it would feed properly. You might be best leaving that at the default value.
reaming the filament hole is probably a good option anyway, so it is nice and smooth.
The hole mounts for the groovemount are indeed off a little bit, at least for the groovemount I received from makergear of april 2011. The constants can be tweaked a bit to move the holes to the right place or you can just widen the holes to accommodate the misalignment. Greg, if you want to integrate this change, just remove my comment.

in the // mounting holes on the base section, I replaced the two hole translations with

translate([-filament_feed_hole_offset+27.6*((mount
&
lt;1)?1:-1*21.6/27.6),

-motor_mount_translation[1]-1,wade_block_depth/2])

and a few lines below it:

translate([-filament_feed_hole_offset+27.6*((mount
&
lt;1)?1:-1*21.6/27.6),

-motor_mount_translation[1]+base_thickness/2,

wade_block_depth/2])
Thanks for this, mine fits after making these changes. The wooden groovemount holder from makergear (the wade one at least) is asymmetric.

I never built a regular wade's extruder so I'm not sure why that's the case.
Are the two screws to hold in the hinge in beneficial or just one. I'm seeing photos both ways. If one are they equal? The bearing not quite perfectly parallel with just one, perhaps this is the cause of occasional filament misfeeds on my hobbed bolt.
Can this mount on a standard Sells X-Carriage? If not, which carriage would be a good upgrade?
This extruder has the filament path directly in the middle of the two mounting holes. The sells/old wade does not. It is off by about 3.5mm in one direction and 1mm in the other. Depending on your hotend this may not matter. The mounting hole spacing is the same as Sells/Wade (i.e. 50mm).

I would recommend my lm8uu carriage.
I've got a standard sells mendel, with a standard sells x carriage. I would have to rotate this such that the stepper's axis is parallel to the X axis, correct?
You'll want to offset the mounting holes by 3.5mm as described elsewhere, then mount it like this:

picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/W7Sg2JyhSR1z2TE3lTNarw

As you can see, you lose a /lot/ of Z height mounting it this way. print a prusa carriage and X ends as your first prints with it ;)
This is the extruder evolved to near perfection, great job, it's working very well for me, thanks Greg.

I made a small change to the Idler by adding a built-in lever so you can pull it back to insert filament without undoing the sprung bolts, really handy :)
Do you have the built-in lever on thingiverse? I would live to try it out.
With the v6 I had some heat problems (comparing to the Adrian the mounting points are less strong)

But with a little sheet of aluminium and a fan it's ok :)

flic.kr/p/9U9B5u
Wouldn't be such a problem if you weren't using PLA in extruder parts where it doesn't belong, but then you work with whatever you've got... so nice fix.
the spacing on between the hole is wrong for the groovemount, i had to manually edit it in sketchup and move the holes. maby il upload my edit version. other then that i love the design using it!
did you upload your version? you are right that the groovemount doesn't fit.
If you want one that is fit for a groovemount, you need to opent he SCAD file and tell it to generate the groovemount interface on the main extruder body. It's a simple option.

If you have trouble, send me a private message with your e-mail address and I'll email you the generated STL.

I'm using two of these presently on groovemounts and love them.
This doesn't seem to work for me. I'm getting warnings in openscad about unknown variables like 'm4_nut_diameter' and 'm4_diameter' It also gives a warning about being unable to open configuration.scad.

It does eventually render but does not have the hinge section for the idler to connect to and shows a strange flaw on the base near the hole.

Very cool design though.
you need configuration.h from the prusa git repository. (or my fork: github.com/GregFrost/PrusaMendel)
There is no configuration.h. I assume you mean configuration.scad which is actuall configuration.scad.dist in the repo.
Yeah that's the one sorry. firmware on the brain. To generate the gears, you'd also need the library module it uses (also in the repo).
Had to do some little adjustment because I use 6-32 screws instead of M3 but I like the design.

Happy to see a design that use only one screw to hold the filament.

Thanks for that one !
Great idea! I only have one screw in there anyways right now, but this is a perfect innovation for the problems relating to the extruder
The Idller looks like my Idller

thingiverse.com/thing:8115
I noticed that when you posted yours. Mine has been around for a while though and in the public domain since early April: github.com/GregFrost/PrusaMendel/commits/master/gregs-wade-v3.scad

It was in no way derived from yours. Nice idea to come up with independently though. :)
Yes... it's funny :-P
Great design. Dunno why Thingiverse isn't rendering my "I MADE IT" above. Many photos on my Flickr... here's one showing the hobbing I used:

flickr.com/photos/13723140@N04/5678982200/in/photostream/
I tried (countless hours) to get the previous version of Gregs Extruder running with this kind of hobbing, but was unable to prevent the filament from falling of the bearing, whereas in a classical Wade Extruder it works perfectly.

Did you manage to get this kind of hobbing to run work reliably in this version of the extruder?
I also experienced the problem with the filament falling of the bearing, designed this filament guide: thingiverse.com/thing:11037 which solved my problems.
Did you try flipping the hobbed bit backwards? You might have the threads pushing the filament outwards (towards the back) as it rotates.
Cloud - it worked for me; I dunno what I ddi right or wrong here but the filament tends to get pulled to the gear-end of the extruder, where it's nicely trapped against the plastic and bearing. If it went the other way, it would indeed slip out of the usable space...
It wouldn't hurt to add a filament guide to this design. Maybe a couple of posts sticking out of the back.
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