Rotary Encoder D-Pad
by leonexis, published
It does this by having a disc that holds the rotary encoder balance on a cone in the bottom holder. This will allow it to rotate along the X and Y axis enough to push buttons on the top of the assembly.
This is the first part I designed to be printed and is for a small raspberry pi and xbmc based kitchen radio/viewer so most functions could be performed with one knob.
Rotary Encoder: PEC11-4220F-S0024, Newark #02J2850
I'm not sure what the part number is for the push buttons used, but they have a base of 6.5mm squared and the full height with the button not pressed is 5.0mm. The lower limit of the switch makes the height 4.75mm
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Thanks for the link! It might get a bit awkward with such a long stick after combining the two, but the stick/knob would have to be bigger anyways to allow more control. I'll keep that link in mind if i work on the new input device.
I too have thought about using a analog game pad or perhaps a joystick in FreeCAD.
Currently joysticks doesn't seem to be supported, but as it is open source it eventually will be ;)
I have tried to compile it from scratch, but last time I got stuck with some dependency issues :(
The space explorer device has one advantage over a game pad, it very easy to grab when you move your hand away from the 105+ button keyboard.
This is due to the fact that the controller knob is so big, and you only need to grab one.
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Attach four small push buttons to the bottom of the lid. I used hot glue in this case, which seems to work well so far. Make sure leads are point out.
Solder wires on the rotary encoder and feed the wires through the holes in the holder. Glue in place.
Feed the encoder's wires through the holes in the bottom container and make sure the holder can still move. It may help putting a layer of masking tape between the bottom container and the holder. This will make the holder stay center and provide a better feel in the completed unit.
Attach the top to the bottom container using 4x M3x20 screws and nuts. The holes may need to be drilled a bit wider if the print was not accurate.
Finally, solder wires to the four push buttons and connect them to your board as you would any other switch. You should now feel satisfying clicks when moving the encoder up down left and right. If it is too tight, you can place washers between the bottom and top components until you get all four buttons in the open state when not pushing the encoder.
Enjoy and happy hacking!
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