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The Devil's Music Box

by OpenSourceClassroom, published

The Devil's Music Box by OpenSourceClassroom May 3, 2013

Description

I re-wrote the rules for this invention. This is a crazy stereo that has speakers controlled by motors and potentiometers. They can spin 360 degrees! Perfect for the center of a party!

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Instructions

Print all parts. Feel free to choose any crazy color scheme you want. Just make sure to print the legs, base left, base right, and tracker base with 100% fill to ensure rigidity when assembling. You can also change colors in mid-print for added effect. The horns on the base left, base right and phone cradle start at Z=10mm. For color switch just slow the speed of your extruder down to 10% when you get to the end of the 10mm layer, yank the old color out and feed in your new color as quick as you can. Then resume normal printing speed and the color should start to change within 30 seconds.

Assembly uses all M4 and M3 hardware of various sizes. Servo motor gears require a little bit of "solder setting" (a little trick I discovered: cut a small brass nail less than the width of the gear and use a soldering iron to heat up the nail as you press it into place attaching the gear to the servo). You can probably come up with something better if you tried.

***Make sure that you hook all the electrical parts of the stereo up before installing it in the stereo. MAKE SURE YOU GET IT WORKING FIRST!!!***

Arduino goes on the bottom of the stereo amp housing. MP3 circuit goes on the 4 posts. Be sure to wire your arduino before screwing the MP3 circuit in. The wiring is a pain! With a little patients you should be able to figure out by looking at the schematic I made and assembling the stereo slowly.

There will be a lot of excess wires so take care to minimize that as much as possible.

The florescent light is just icing on the cake, not required at all. It just fits sung under the phone cradle. Don't forget about the plexiglass windows to protect the circuits. There will be a small gap between the plexiglass and the bottom of the stereo. I forgot about the hard ward and it is in direct path of the glass. My friend told me that was good so that the circuits have air flow and I bought it. You can measure and cut those after you have the stereo amp circuit housing printed. You will have to drill some holes for various wires but that will be easy when you have the components in place.

This sucker took about 4 months to go from my brain to my desk. I challenge everyone to build this one. It's really cool once completed.

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