Cyberwizzards Alternative X-end

by Cyberwizzard, published

Cyberwizzards Alternative X-end by Cyberwizzard May 3, 2013


WARNING: Prototype!

In an attempt to upgrade my Mendel to a MendelMax alike X axis (where the X belt is 90 degrees rotated like the Pruse belt path) I redesigned the X-ends to hold a 22mm trapezoid or ACME nut.
Aditionally, I added a tensioner system in order to be able to modify belt tension on the X axis without abusing the carriage attachment for that.

The goal is to use the original Mendel length of smooth rod. As such the block is a fair bit longer than some of the MendelMax designs I have seen; this allows the tensioner system to be placed on it as well.

- Modelled in **SolidWorks 2012**
- Uses 2 LM8UU bearings
- Bearings are clamped down with 2x 3mm screws
- Rods are clamped down with 2x 4mm screws
- Uses 4x 608 bearings for the belt path

Why not in OpenSCAD? Because prototyping and fitting things together is a breeze in SW - as soon as I work out the issues with this design I will put up a link to the design with an OpenSCAD version as well.

There are 2 versions of this design, one with nice curves and one with a square base block. The rounded version turned out to be impossible to print in one piece using ABS; splitting it into two halves did not help much.
The normal version is using a square base and has much material removed in an attempt to reduce warping and decrease print times.

**Both designs most likely require a heated chamber and/or the use of PLA to print properly; as I only have ABS at the moment and only a heated bed I can not get this to print straight.**

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Words of Wisdom
I have posted this for inspiration and as a base for another iteration of this design. It **should** fit a Mendel (standard rod length) and MendelMax (assuming your rods are long enough).

The distance between the centers of the smooth rod and trapezoid spindle is 29mm, **NOT** 30mm like on the... errr... prusa?

- Use a heated chamber with ABS or PLA if you have non-warping plastic.
- Print the rounded version without support
- Print the normal version **with support** as the clamping section is sticking out in thin air
- Print a tensioner bracket and push block
- Put a 40mm bolt through the tensioner block from the back, through the tensioner, add the push block, a washer and a nut
- Optionally: use a longer bolt, add a spring to generate an even tension (use a strong spring or you will induce back-lash!)
- Optionally: print a second tensioner bracket and insert it into the second holder on the other side of the body. Use a longer 8mm bolt or threaded rod to extend from the primary tensioner to the secondary tensioner. This should allow for more force on the tensioner before it breaks.