Minecraft Creeper - With Movable Head

by Conseils, published

Minecraft Creeper - With Movable Head by Conseils May 4, 2013
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This is a Minecraft Creeper design with a movable head implemented with a press fit clip design.


Download the STEP files and modify as required. Upload your modified files into Thinigiverse.

  • or -
    Print the STL files, one of each. Settings detailed below.
    1) Calibrate your printer for dimensions
    2) Print 1 of each STL files
    3) Assemble on a firm flat surface!
    4) Press clip firmly into head
    5) Press head and clip firmly into body

The clip arms are designed to compress together completely and be a snug fit into the holes in the head and body. If your printer produces blobs on parts you may have to clean up the clip to avoid issues assembling the clips. The images shown are how Huxley #710 prints parts, no clean up was required or performed. Similarly if your holes are too small or too large then you might have issues, with the STEP files you can tweak things if you prefer.

The Minecraft Creeper shown here is a derivative of Thing 11825. The boys wanted a version that had improved facial features (no drooping) and a swivel head. So I created a clip that fits into the body and head. We have printed around 10 of these now, as the boys friends wanted some. At Maker Faire UK (Newcastle), Creepers were seen hanging out on top of the Printercraft computer monitors. But yours could look around (The leg pitch is just over 11mm).

Derivative changes
I re-drafted this part from scratch based on the parented Thing 11825

Design For Manufacture
By removing the head from the body, the head can be printed without the drooping seen in the green creeper (our first, whose head does not move). The mating features are designed to locate and allow rotation. The clearance between the head and body bearing location diameters and the clip centre locating diameter is 0.20mm by design. To accomodate the slightly out of round holes manufactured in FDM layer manufacture. The clip deformation assumes a non brittle material in this case Faberdasherry PLA. As the clip is significantly deformed on insertion into the head and body. The part was printed as three elements as a clip on the head or body might have needed material support. The clip is intended for use in other assemblies and allow for repair, if required. Which would be more difficult with an integrated clip. At the time the clip was designed, there were limited versions on Thingiverse. A redesign might use one of the clip designs on Thingiverse.

This item has small parts and is not suitable for young children as a result. With some effort our Creeper head could be removed, unlike Lego Duplo characters for example.

Sample Part Manufacturing Technical Documentation
Printer : Huxley #710 (RepRap Pro)
Firmware : Marlin 1.0.0 RC2 - 15 Feb 2013
Software : RepRap Pro Software 811708f - Pronterface
Material : PLA - Faberdashery - Arctice Whilte - Village Green
Material Dia. : 1.75 mm (Msd 1.80 mm )
Nozzle : 0.50 mm
Layer height : 0.25 mm
Layer width : 0.6 mm
Extrusion T : 198 C
Bed T : 60 C
Feed Rate : 28 mm/s
Perimiter rat. : 0.5
Infil pattern : Hexagonal
Infil solidity : 0.15
Cooling Fan : Yes
Bed material : Borosilicate Glass
Over hangs : Yes
Support : No

Design For Manufacture Parameters
Model : Absolute dimensions
Scale : 1:1
Holes : Yes
Layer height : 0.30 mm
Layer width : 0.6 mm
Over hangs : Yes
Support : No

Model Tools
Function: Model Fix up
Tool: NetFab Studio Basic
Version: 4.9

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Does anyone happen to know how many grams this item weighs? I am wondering how much it will cost when I print it at the library. Thank you!

From memory we used ~4.5m of 1.8mm dia, filament with Huxley#710 1 meter = 3.10g or 2.40cc
Of course this will depend on your slicing software settings such as infill density, layer height and extruder diameter.
See the documentation for settings used by Huxley #710 at the time of publishing.
Your slicing software should be able to tell you this prior to printing.
Additionally when I load gcode data files into pronterface, it also tells me how much length is going to be used in each print.

I printed this for my 11yr old daughter and she informed me that the eyes are in the wrong location. She said Creepers are cross-eyed. I'm not complaining, just saying.

Sep 7, 2014 - Modified Sep 7, 2014
Conseils - in reply to nitewing76

Hi, I didn't know they were cross eyed! One of the things I did as part of this design was to create some STEP model files. You can take these and easily re-mix a custom Creeper. Perhaps change his screaming face?

One of the reasons for printing the head separately was so it could have a different head.

Or perhaps you can PM a picture of her preferred Creeper face?

Hi, how do I print the connectors as it is really small. Thanks!

Hi, it depends on the capability of your printer and print settings as to how small an item you can successfully print.

If you take a look at the instructions, I always try to include as much manufacturing data as possible. So its possible for people to figure out if their device will print the design or what might be need to tweak your configuration. It also allows some level of performance comparison between the prints I have made and what another machine achieves.

You can see the layer height, extrusion rate and feed rates, together with the machine description and slicing software.

I think the main limitations would be:
If your print nozzle is bigger than 0.5mm (which is unlikely)
Your printer is not calibrated (i.e. does not print at a scale of 1:1, i.e. making sure the axis move the demanded distances)
Stringing (temperature issues or filament state / quality)
Blobs (under retraction)

The part is small enough and of low complexity that it will only take 5 minutes to try, and you can refine your settings.
The Huxley machine used to print the part in the photographs is a very common machine and whilst I am very proud of Huxley #710, its performance is probably in the zone of average to good as a 3D printer. So the likely hood of success in printing designs I have worked on should be high.

One commenter indicated they printed a simple rod to replace the clip and perhaps you might be more comfortable with such a solution.

I hope this helps?

Thanks for the fast reply! Do you think that I can use the lego connectors as my 3d printer can't print tiny objects.

Hi, the diameters are different. What I did do was find an asymmetric clip and a smooth rod (possibly a light sabre rod). I slid two of the asymmetric Lego Technic clips over the rod and glued them in place. Then pushed then into a creeper.

This seemed to work quite well although they don't hold in place as well as the spring clip.

If you send some personal messages through Thingiverse with some good pictures of a printed clip, I might be able to make some suggestions on how to improve your prints.

Mrrlyn did one in glow in the dark green. Kid loved it.

I was disappointed that for some reason rectangular holes were formed on either side of the creeper body at the bottom of the clip hole. I don't know if this is due to the latest version of Slic3r; it seems to cut out thin walls fairly egregiously.

Hi, I agree Slic3r does strange things! I have again reverted to the somewhat slower and perhaps less feature laden, but more robust Skienforge.
Whilst Slic3r is very quick at slicing, its strange behavior means, I trust it only on small prints. Which is a shame because I would really benefit from it on some of the very large prints I do.
The many prints we have done with Skienforge of the Creeper have been superb. It's also why I post such detailed engineering information to support comparisons with what I have done.
The slicer was inferred by the reference to 'Software : RepRap Pro Software 811708f - Pronterface'. I am more explicit in later posts, having tried different slicing software.
So our Creepers are sliced with Skienforge. Slic3r may produce equal or better results, I just haven't got a Slic3R configuration that prints as Skienforge yet. I have lots of issues with holes as do others using Slicr3r and its one reason I still keep Skienforge 'warm'. See http://hydraraptor.blogspot.co.uk/2014/06/why-slicers-get-dimensions-wrong.htmlhttp://hydraraptor.blogspot.co...

About how long will this take to print?

Hi, it depends on your axis speeds, feed rates and selected in fill rate.
At a speed of 30 mm/s, with a hexagonal fill It might take about an hour and a quarter to print.

Just printed this in green PLA for my son, he's going to flip for it. thanks for sharing this.

Thanks for making this! Printed very well.

Made about 6 of these for my friend's kids and they all print great (green ABS, printed in low, medium and high qualities). Thanks for the Thing!

Glad you enjoyed the thing. Compliments of the season.

The connector pin was one I arrived at some time ago. I am please the solid cylinder works for you. There are many more clips on Thingiverse that you might find better.
e.g. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:45737http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

The key difference with this pin is the location diameter, reduced stiffness for the arms to lower the insertion force and clearance at the tip. I was thinking of putting a sprung element in the bottom to help push the arms out. However left this out as the production run of 10 of these including one 'golden creeper' kept getting in the way. We fount the clip design resilient to normal 11 year old use in school! Faberdashery filament was used for the clips as well as the head and body.

Customizable simple pin connector
by sphynx

Just what I was looking for. The conector pin is horrible, but a solid cilender works great!