Loading

2-in-1 fan duct: extruder and filament cooler for E3D V6 and others

by eiPionezero, published

2-in-1 fan duct: extruder and filament cooler for E3D V6 and others by eiPionezero May 20, 2015
84 Share
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Order This Printed View All Apps

Thing Info

133965Views 25800Downloads Found in 3D Printer Parts
Report Thing

Summary

UPDATE 21-05-2015: Updated photo renders, STL fixed, updated source file.

Because I did not want to place two fans around my hotend, one for the extruder cooling and one for the filament cooling, I decided to design a double fan duct which can cool both with only one 40mm fan. Results are pretty good, all prints come out great and I have not had any filament jamming so far.

I have uploaded, next to the source files (Solidworks), two STL versions. One is designed to fit on the official E3D V6 hotend, one is designed for my Chinese E3D clone. They are both the same, except for the with and height of the fan mount. The official E3D has a diameter of 22.3mm and a height of 26mm, my clone has a diameter of 25mm and a height of 32mm. To check which version you need, just measure the diameter of your hotend. The length is less important as the diameter.

Mounting is easy, just screw a 40mm fan with 4 M3 screws to the fan duct, click the fan duct to your hotend and you are good to go! The click-on system is really simple, but still very strong. Even with strong vibrations the fan duct on my printer does not move on the hotend.

Printing can best be done by rotating the print 45 degrees and printing the fan duct with the fan mount to the bottom.

The designs are with a GPL license. So do what you want with the files, as long as you publish your modificated object under a GPL license and give the correct references.

More from 3D Printer Parts

view more

Thing Info

133965Views 25800Downloads Found in 3D Printer Parts
Report Thing

Liked By

View All

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag. Print Thing Tag

All Apps

This App connects Thingiverse with Makeprintable, a cloud-based mesh repair service that analyzes, validates and repairs most common mesh errors that can occur when preparing a 3D design file for p...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App
Jul 13, 2016 - Modified Jul 13, 2016

Beautiful design! This is an elegant approach, and will certainly provide better flow at the nozzle than alternatives with narrow, angular flow channels. Small fans of the type used here provide very low pressure, and don't handle resistance well at all. I'd love to see a modular one for non-cylindrical heat sinks (or design one myself).

Works perfect! no extra support needed, thanks man.

Looks great, could you post up some good settings to user too please?
Layer height, fill %, good extrusion width maybe?

Thanks

Hi there,
I like the shape, it's simple and elegant.
On the other hand, I don't think it's a good idea to join the two fans. The fan for the extruder has to run all the time, otherwise the heat flowing up from the hot end will overheat the extruder, the filament becomes too soft to go through the feeding line and the printer jams.
On my printer - and probably on others, too - it cannot be controlled, gets continuous power while the printer is switched on.
The other fan, which cools the extruded filament and the printed object - is another story. It can be controlled depending on filament materials, object shape, printing speed, etc. Most slicers control it layer by layer, or even more frequently (e.g. slic3r)
It will not necessarily cause problems to you until you print fairly simple shapes. The general risk is that in certain cases your 1st layer will not stick (enough) to the bed. Most slicers switch off the object fan for the 1st couple of layers, allowing them to melt better to the bed.

The downside of this design is you wont be able to print ABS anymore if you have an all metal hotend.

Made One, and gave me very good results with PLA.
Would be great to have a dual fan version with a cooling on the back side of the extruder, because parts tend to warp at the back (for ex Marvin)

thanks for share it. tomorrow i will try to print one :)

If only more people used the Prometheus V2 nozzle, I need one of these so bad....

I'm surprised no one has remixed this to fully encircle the nozzle yet.

Doesn't work on a Kossel Mini FLSUN. Needs a different effector to be able to fit.

Great design but I think that needs little bit improvements. Can you import this in rsdoc or some other format? I use Design Spark Mechanical I heard that it is similar to SolidWorks? Format's I can use for editing are RSDOC,AMF,DXF,OBJ,SKP. Thank's

Robert KB3LNN

I have been using this for the past 3 days and its worked a treat although I do find with a large powerful fan it has a tendency to pull away from the heat sink which would be fixed with a slightly larger clip around the heat sink.

I Have my heatblock the other way, is it posible to make a version where it would fit with the heatblock the other way around?

Or you turn your heatblock?

Perfect!! Thanks!!

Thank you for providing the source-file!

For anybody using the Kossel mini effector (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:731354): Unfortunately, this fan duct does NOT fit the mini effector version. It bumps into the effector. I hope this helps somebody.

Kossel Mini effector for E3D-v6
by saldot

Has anyone made something like this for the hexagon hot end?

Thank you for the Solid works file !!
I love when people share the original files, it shows that they believe that progress is only achievable by sharing knowledge .

Still need some improvements, but that's why we are here : helping to achieve a better work .

Can it be used for the e3d V5 model?

I did one, but the design has some minor problems. Some issues I experienced:

1- In the cold area i need constant cooling...i used abs and i had to turn off the cooler for the first layer...so i had a conflict, turning off the cooler stops the cooling for cold area...
2- The lock system needs to improve some way...with normal 3d printer vibration, this duct change position and touch the hot nozzle, melting and deform...
3- I like to see 3d part grow (especially the first layer), with this design, the frontal view has been blocked 100%.

Cheers

Humberto

Great desing but I think that needs little bit improvements. Can you import this in dwg or some other non solidworks format?

Second this! Would love to see one with a more full grip and even 1 or 2 little teeth to go between the heatsink blades to stop it slipping down due to vibration.

I printed the object with pla. With the heat of the extruder was glued. To you it has happened?

Never use PLA when printing hot end parts ABS is the way to go there

Hah, PLA is not good decision for this design ;)

no, i've been printing using this fan and first layer is fine. I use this for the sunhokey prusa. best fan mount so far. of course, 1 layer fan is best. Quality of my PLA prints are great!

Anyone had problem with first layer PLA to stick running this cooler? When you need the fan to run 100% from start

I do. Still trying to figure out the workaround. If I don't turn the fan on until 3or 5 layers, E3D will heat creep and melt the filament inside PTFE liner. With fan on, the first layer does stick, but on 2 or 3 layer the entire thing comes off the bed. If you figure anything out, please share. Thanks.

What surface do you print on?

I print PLA on bare heated glass (no hairspray or blue tape). I took some time to play with the settings just this afternoon and discovered the following solution. Turn the fan on to 50% via software, then heat up the extruder to 220c. Touch the heatsink to see if the temperature is ambient. if so, drop fan down to 40% and do the process over again to see how low you can drop you fan speed without compromising the passive cooling. My fan was able to do 20%~25% speed without raising the temperature of heatsink.

Now to the actual print job. I've got my fan set @ 25%speed, then start the print job. In the cooling settings of your slicer software (or repetier host), have the fan set @ 15% or 20% for first 3 layers (to make sure filament sticks to bed without strong fan blowing at it), then back to 25% for the rest of the print (this is to avoid any heat creep up the heatsink and cause jamming).

So far i've done about 5 calibration cubes with this settings and they all printed without any problem.

Loxua - in reply to Loxua

One additional problem i'm trying to workout is that my fan is wired to the D9 print fan, not the extruder fan. Print fan has the advantage of controlling fan speed via software at any given time (even with start script gcode), but start script gcode comes after heating up and before print. So without software, I don't know how i can turn the fan on before heating up without the printer connected to a desktop/laptop via software. say I want to print solely via SD Card. Dont know how to beat this part yet.

What firmware are you using? In Marlin you can set fan speed in Control.

This works great, thanks for the design! Has anyone made a modified version that fits the volcano hot end? I can't find anything but maybe someone has done it. Thanks.

One of the remixes of this thing is titled "2-in-1 fan duct: extruder and filament cooler for E3D V6 VOLCANO", I bet that design is what you are looking for!

Looks like that one will work, thanks!

This comment has been deleted.

I found this wasnt a tight fit onto the E3d and it touched heated block and melts

Are you sure you took the right STL-file? Chinese E3D-V6 hotends come in a lot of different sizes, you first have to measure which type of hotend you have before you can print the right model!

Dec 8, 2015 - Modified Dec 8, 2015

I wonder how much work it would take to make an air flow diverter-- using an electromagnet and a flap to toggle air flow to the nozzle. No need for a change in firmware, just hook up the electromagnet to the fan relay and your good to go.

Feel free to remix this thing by adding your idea and please share your results!

Great fan duct ! thanks to share it with us.

i have a Smartrapcore Alu and it would fit but with print area lost :( it bump on the 2020 aluminium extrusion when the head move to Y home)

do you plan to mod it with 30 degrees oriented fan ????

Right now, I am working on some other projects, feel free to redesign the object, all source files are available. Maybe you could temporary fix the problem by changing the location of your endstop?

Absolutely exquisite design!!!!!! But my set up takes the small fan that comes with the e3dv6 kit. http://www.3dmakerworld.com/e3d-v6-full-kit It would be awesome to have this design fit the small fan so it fits between the rails. Did you by chance do such a version? Thanks

I would recommend using a 40mm fan to get enough airflow, but feel free to redesign the thing. Source files are available and please share your results!

I'm just thinking that wont turning of the fan for the first layer with this mean that the extruder will get very hot?

Good question, Nicolinux asked the same on the 6th of June ;)
For me, I have set in Cura the option to have the fan off during the first layer and on 50% for every layer higher than 0.5mm. This works perfect for most of my prints. If I have to print a very big object, with a large sized first layer, the heatsink will heat up too much and can cause filament jamming. But large object do not need object cooling, only cooling for the heatsink, so for those prints I use a different fanduct which only cools the heatsink and not the object. For smaller objects, not cooling the heatsink for just a few minutes should not cause problems.

Why would you want to turn off the fan for the first layer? Is it supposed to help with adhesion?

This comment has been deleted.
Nov 10, 2015 - Modified Nov 11, 2015

what printer is this for? Will it work on a Taz 3?
And or a Rigidbot regular single ext.?

Depends on the used hotend and the used hotendmount, please examine this for yourself :)
If the fan duct does not fit, you can always use the Solidworks source file to create a fitting fan duct.

Nov 10, 2015 - Modified Nov 10, 2015

Do not--absolutely DO NOT--print this in PLA. I was stupid, and wanted to see what would happen, so I printed in PLA, and the first think to happen was that the part holding onto the heatsink snapped. Okay, great, just Dremel a hole and zip tie it in place. So, I did that, and a few hours into printing, my nozzle and thermistor wires were covered in melted PLA, eventually causing the thermistor to read inaccurate temperatures (I suspect the wires are bent, and are now on the verge of breaking). So, again, DO NOT print this in PLA, unless you feel like ruining your day.

Ough, does not sound great. I saw that dennishusell also printed in PLA, but he used some aluminium foil to protect the fan duct: http://www.thingiverse.com/make:160967

2-in-1 fan duct: extruder and filament cooler for E3D V6 and others

tnx!!

I didn't realize how do i suppose to attach this fan duct to the printer?

How about simply snapping it to the heatsink of your hotend :p

i will post the build when its done. i chose MadeSolid PET+ for the Filament

E3D Volcano Models (Solidworks and STL)
by Boz

i also have an e3d v6 volcano that could use this if the fan duct were longer/lower, but i don't have the specs in front of me

i have no gift for cad, but i think it would be great to have some led mounts integrated into the notch between the upper and lower ducts to light the print. possibly as part of a support structure that makes it easier to print .
looks great though. as aluminum effector plates are becoming cheap, i think this kind of clip on design will be very popular

i am printing one right now

That may be a good idea. Right now, I do not have the time to design these led mounts, but maybe I will design it in the future :)

Oct 30, 2015 - Modified Oct 30, 2015

Can you make one for a 60mm fan? I have planed on making one but if you have your source files it would probably be quicker to just request you to do it.

Hi I love the design but how do I know if I have a china clone or the other ones

Please measure the diameter and height of the heatsink of your hotend. The official E3D heatsink has a diameter of 22.3mm and a height of 26mm, my clone has a diameter of 25mm and a height of 32mm. If your clone has a heatsink with a diameter different than 22.3 or 25, you can use the Solidworks source file to create your own fitting fan duct.

This comment has been deleted.

does the bottom duct interfere with the hot end?

It should not interfere. I do not have problems, are you sure you have printed the fan duct in the right dimensions? For example, my own hotend is a Chinese clone so I had to adjust some dimensions for the print, but now everything works perfect. So please check the exact dimensions of your hotend en change the fan duct if needed. Source files are available :)

Prints great!

Question: what fans work well here?

The stock v6 fan measures 30x30x10mm, so I needed to get a 40mm fan. I made the mistake of ordering a "silent" fan. Big mistake - insufficient airflow (though barely audible compared to the E3D v6 stock fan!). My fans (insufficient) rated values were 4200rpm and 4.5 CFM, now i need something way stronger!

The E3D website doesnt state the RPM/CFM of the fan they supply, so I did some research based on the model number, and found a datasheet which states the RPM as 11,000 and the CFM as 4.4, however I could be completely wrong! I dont know enough about Fan calculations to figure out how these would translate from a 30mm fan to a 40mm fan.

So what are the rated values for RPM and CFM on the fans you're using ?

I really have no idea what the specs of the fan are I am using, I am just using some cheap 40mm Chinese fan which works perfect :p

i have printed but the walls are to thinner...

There is a remix that just has thicker walls. My remix of Dokart's changes also has thicker walls with the addition of Dokart's rotating flow valve for cooling parts.

Yup, fantastic, Thanks! 100% Infill and a 0.2mm layer height in PLA worked a treat!

The PLA doesn't melt?

Superb Design! Printing Mine right now!!!! #FingersCrossed

Today i change your model and add on/valve to material blowout http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:939997

Fun duct on/off valve to material blowout
by Dokart

When i need no fan flow on the model, i simply put some wadding to the "model" duct.. whats the problem...

And thnx for model btw!

Nice! Is it possible to create one with only the funnel for the E3D? I do have a second fan (because ABS don't need an always on fan) for the nozzle itself, but like the 45° angle to mount the fan.

Source files are available, so feel free to redesign to the fan duct and please share you results :)

Really good idea, but wouldn't this cause problems if one tries to print with the fan off for the first layers? The full metal hotend needs constant cooling and with this design you are forced to always print with the fan on.

I agree with Nicolinux, if you set it "always on" you can have problems of adherence on the first layers, and if you activate it via gcode maybe the melted filament could reach the extruder at the begining of the print and cause jamming.

How do you wire it?

(Little late reply, I was offline for some time :p )
Good point. For me, I have set in Cura the option to have the extra fan off the first layer, 50% for every layer higher than 0.5mm. This works perfect for most of my prints. If I have to print a very big object, with a large sized first layer, the heatsink will heat up too much and can cause filament jamming. But large object do not need object cooling, only cooling for the heatsink, so for those prints I different fanduct which only cools the heatsink and not the object. For smaller objects, not cooling the heatsink for just a few minutes should not cause problems.

Can you send the source , so I can thicken the walls ?

What do you mean? The source file is already available for download, just look under the tab 'Thing files'.

May 30, 2015 - Modified Jun 3, 2015

I'm seeking this brilliant idea, and You've done great work!
I tries printing chinese clone using my prusa i3, but the result isn't like what I expected.
I sliced this with Cura, and ran the printing with RepetierHost, but the wall is too shallow, and it couldn't hold at position,
Could you thicken the wall to 2~3mm more? or any instruction.

June/6
I found the difference between Official, and chinese clone, I could print official one successfully, but chinese one is total failure.
Still, I don't know how to fix this, Finally, I got answer for this, I change the option of infill of Cura to concentric line, and remove all the support with 100% infill. The result looks satisfactory.

Jun 5, 2015 - Modified Jun 5, 2015
eiPionezero - in reply to jcmsys

Thanks!
With which nozzle size do you print? Walls are 1mm thick, if you have a 0.4mm nozzle, Cura may give only 2 lines for every wall, so you get a wall consisting of 0.4mm plastic, 0.2mm air and then 0.4mm plastic again, which is really fragile. For me, I used a 0.3mm nozzle, Cura then uses multiple plastic lines to create a solid 1mm wall. Maybe this can also be a solution for you?
Yes, there is a big difference between the two STL's! First, I printed a fan duct using the official dimensions, when I observed that the fan duct did not fit but broke instead, I measured the real dimensions of my heatsink and saw a big difference of multiple millimeters.
Can you please share your final result? I am curious about the pictures :)

Your guess is right, I used 4mm nozzle, And if I could get 3mm nozzle, then I'll get better result.
Anyway, current one can give reasonable quality,even if it looks loose.I uploaded the image on "made one" section.

Thank you for sharing this brilliant stuff!!

I love the idea. I've printed one but it doesn't fit my Wade Extruder mount. Would you be able to design one that has the fan more more vertical and slightly lower?

Thanks!
I have included the source file, modify as you like :)
Assuming you have Solidworks installed, you can easily modify the two guide line sketches for the air ducts and adjust some parameters for the location of the fan to get your perfect 2-1 fan duct. Please share the result :)

will this fit an e3d lite6?

May 25, 2015 - Modified May 25, 2015
eiPionezero - in reply to Okeasy

According to the documentation of the E3D Lite6 (http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-Lite6_Documentation#v6_Fan_Duct), the fan duct of the Lite6 is the same as the fan duct of the V6, so the dimensions are the same. Assuming that the distance between the heatsink and the nozzle tip is also the same, this fan duct should fit perfect.

If you have a Chinese Lite6, dimensions can be a little different than the official dimensions. Please measure the diameter and length of the heatsink and the distance between the heatsink and the nozzle tip. If these dimensions are respectively 22.3mm, 26mm and 18-20mm, you are good to go.

Brilliant!
Would you mind to share the E3D V6 model as well?

The E3D V6 model I used for the photo rendering is just a very quick drawing of only a few minutes, it will possible take less time for you to draw you own version in whatever the program you like using the online spec sheets (http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Documentation), then for me to zip and upload the files ;)

May 22, 2015 - Modified May 22, 2015
kentxu - in reply to eiPionezero

Yes, fair enough. It does look quite easy now you mention it ;)

Edit: just found one here:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:433258

E3D v6 1.75 mm Universal Hotend
Top