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Ultimaker Lasercut Drawings

by Martijn, published

Ultimaker Lasercut Drawings by Martijn May 15, 2011

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Description

We started shipping the Ultimaker, parallel to that we publish the lasercut drawings.

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Are thes also for ultimaker 2 available
Hi,
any answer to this would be great. I have the same issue.
can i get all the if in one place like in your wiki that will be so nice

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Instructions

Material description is included in the file. Good to know, red is for cutting, blue for light marking and black for engraving.

Have fun!

Are thes also for ultimaker 2 available
can i get all the if in one place like in your wiki that will be so nice
I've been checking the official Ultimaker wiki documentation. The current revision of
the printer is 3. I download this file UM.eps but belong to rev.2. I could not
find the rev3 changelog. Are you planned to update this file? this file still
working? thanks!
Hi,
any answer to this would be great. I have the same issue.
The holes in the extruder wood parts seem to have 15mm dia holes in them, but the new kits use 6mm linear bearings, am I right? Are those 6x15mm bearings or have the holes been changed to 12mm, since 6x12mm bearings are more common?
Check out techpaladin printing. He has a lot of hardware.
how about posting this in dxf?
someone can tell me about part precision

Iwould like to use in my drawing office

where we work for racing car

thank you
I am very interested in Ultimaker, but have some questions about the lasercut drawings.

I notice the dimensions on the lasercut drawings are the final dimensions we want. As you know, we use the drawings to cut parts, the lasercut process may induce some inaccuracy. For instance, as for a 3mm diameter hole on the lasercut drawings, we will get the hole diameter a little larger than 3mm. So I wonder, is it necessory to modify or offset the dimensions on lasercut drawings in order to get more precise parts finally.
FYI , the main hardware required is about 3 each 36 inch long 8mm rods, 2 LM8 linear bearings for the "flying head", 36 inches of 12mm linear rod and matching LM12 bearings, 10 each 20 tooth MXL 8mm bore pulleys and then 2 more 20 tooth MXL pulleys with 5mm bore for the motors. Any RAMPs version will work to run the bot.10 each 688rs bearings, at least 16 each 30mm M3s, and a ton of 16 and 12 mm, M3s.

I found it could have been my cut job but the shipping version of the Ultimaker uses 4 each 300MXL belts and 2 100MXL belts, but my but needed 295MXLs and 97MXLs for proper tension. SDP/SI in NYC has the pulleys and belts in the US. I would get the bearings and rods from VXB bearings.
FYI , the main hardware requires is about 3 each 36 inch long 8mm rods, 2 LM8 linear bearings for the "flying head", 36 inches of 12mm linear rod and matching LM12 bearings, 10 each 20 tooth MXL 8mm bore pulleys and then 2 more 20 tooth MXL pulleys with 5mm bore for the motors. Any RAMPs version will work to run the bot.10 each 688rs bearings, at least 16 each 30mm M3s, and a ton of 16 and 12 mm, M3s.

I foudn it could have been my cut job bute the shipping version of the Ultimaker uses 4 each 300MXL belts and 2 100MXL belts, but my but needed 295MXLs and 97MXLs for proper tension. SDP/SI in NYC has the pulleys and belts in the US. I would get the bearings and rods from VXB.
It is almost 200 dollars to ship to Hawaii
awesome!

but i dont see a possibility to just order the electronics and steppers for the mashine i just see the complete kit in your shop.
The electronics is basically Reprap RAMPS, nothing that extrordinary. I posted the parts list for pulleys and belts. Basically, the info is out there to build one from locally sourced parts.
where? ive looked for parts list but havent really come up with much. any help would be appreciated.
Nice!

I've an old diy cnc with electronics, so I'm trying to build it on my own (and because I don't have the money to buy it :-( ).

I'm cutting all the wooden parts with my scroll-saw and its working pretty well -- until now;-)

Can anyone tell me where I could buy the long linear bearings (Germany)? I can't find any suppliers for them...

Keep up the great work!
Hi!

Do you know what linear bearing you need to buy? Do you know sizes? or part name?
FYI, the ultimaker uses 2 each LM12UU and 2 each LM8UU, with ten 688 bearings. The 4 brass bushings are 8mm bore and 30mm in length but I don't know the outside diameter. Maybe 10mm? It takes about 3 each 30 inch sections of 8mm smooth rod to match the bushings.

The 4 brass bushings cannot easily be replaced with linear bearings because they both slide and the shaft rotates and need to be just bigger than the shaft for clearance. There's just not a good off the shelf bearing that would ever fit in that location. Linear bearings don't normally acept rotat
ion (the ball paths aren't set up for that). In this case, there is no room for the shaft, the balls, and the outer casing.
thanks! info about MXL belts is very usefull for me)))
Hello!

Where is info about pulleys and belts used in ultimaker? It will be very usefull for building ultimaker.
Illustrator is one of the best way to convert the drawings, open the .eps and export as .dxf, then open and explode it a few times in Autocad
Congrats Erik
&
amp; Co!
Could this be uploaded as a dwg by any chance? I don't have a native eps viewer and Photoshop sucks at it. Sounds like it'll be a nice machine with plenty of competitive points going for it regardless.
AcrobatPro will open an EPS as long as the version it was saved to is not newer than your version of Acrobat. (There are a couple other caveats that have something to do with compression, but I use Acrobat for EPS and AI files on my PC at work. You can also "Insert
&
gt;Image From File" an EPS file into MS Office documents.
inkscape is free and reads and writes svg and dwg.
You are right, I can only export as PDF and SVG at this moment though.
Martijn, how long does it take you to cut this for one printer, in birch?
Approx. one hour
See Insane Speeds with PLA on Ultimaker on YouTube:

youtube.com/watch?v=A2cgGTLMeCQ
The build surface looks huge compared to the TOM and Cupcake.
Are we going to get a BOM for the hardware?
Erik - in reply to Guest
We've made many improvements in the last couple of months, so we'll have to revise the lists we used with part counts, etc. But here's my work in progress list starting with a box, then with packs, which should eventually drill down to the part level.

wiki.ultimaker.com/Ultimaker_Package_Rev._2
if you sell your nuts and bolts , belt and pullies. people will buy it.it will also save money for shipping for people like me.

what about using 6mm rods instead of 8mm
garthk - in reply to Erik
Please keep up the work on that! I'm weighing whether to build a Makerbot Thing-o-Matic or an Ultimaker. I'd prefer the Ultimaker due to the speed and build area, but I can't build it if I have to guess the part list.
Iiiiinteresting! How does it stack up against the MakerBots?
Much bigger build volume. Hot end can go like 10x faster.
Also, for those who complain it doesn't have a heated bed. It would take maybe an hour at most to add the 8x8 (~ 210 X 210 mm) standard heated bed from Ultimachine or any other RepRap parts house. That standard heated bed PCB is the right size, you just need a 10 amp 12 volt supply and a relay to run it. Total cost is like $100 by the time you get a power supply, PCB $50 (Ultimachine), relay $5 (free in my junk bin), kapton 8x8 surface $13.50 (Makergear), don't forget a thermistor $2.75, power supply, and some wiring. Ramps should be able to support it but I would put a relay for power since mine does draw 8+amps when cold! The stock Ultimaker power supply will fail or shutdown if you tried it alone!!! The 8 X * heated bed draws nearly 100 watts by itself (12V times 8.5 Amps = 102 watts)!!!!
You might be right that the stock ultirouter power supply will not be able to supply a heated bed too. But you probably missed that the ultimaker is run at ~20V and probably will withstand 35V. You will need to recalibrate the PID parameters for the nozzle and heated bed if you try 35V, so it is not for the faint of heart. At such voltages, you need less amps for the same power, which is good, because the 2.5mm dc plug is not suited for many amps.
Ok right, higher voltage means you could use less amperage to reach the same wattage (basic Ohm's law), but there is one major catch-that the resistance of the heaters must be changed. The motors work fine BC they have active current regulation-but even then, you always must oversize the power source. With any PWM, the load is directly connected to the source for short periods of time. With an inductor-the voltage/current rise is slow so PWM doesn't present the "full" load (coils direct resistance) what you get is complex impedance. A resistive load does not follow the same principals and thus, if you have a 2.5 ohm heater-it's 2.5 ohms all the time meaning directly divide the voltage by the resistance = peak current no matter what. PWMing a heater still requires a power supply capable of running the heater constantly (in other word must meet or exceed the required current). You will smoke the supply if you use a Reprap heaterboard (the most common available today)as it's resistance is too low for higher voltages. Possibly cutting traces and converting sections to series resistance rather than the current parallel configuration etched into the board. Not impossible, but not plug-n-play either.
That's cool, I'd love to see a video of it in action (not YouTube please! It doesn't work in China).

It's awesome to see commercial competition in this open source space of ours.. I hope the two companies can learn something from each other!
Erik - in reply to Guest
This video will probably work (not youtube): fablab.nl/articles/2011/02/25/ultimaker-in-de-wereld-draait-door (Ultimaker part starts at 6 minutes, the print at 12:40 minutes)
China you say? You might want to check out T O R https://w w w. t o r p r o j e c t . o r g/ to get around the firewall. Or maybe this proxy (to get to t o r): secure-tunnel.com/
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