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Case for the Full Graphic Smart LCD Controller

by wersy, published

Case for the Full Graphic Smart LCD Controller by wersy May 11, 2013
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Summary

This is a case for the Full Graphic Smart LCD Controller. http://www.reprapdiscount.com/home/34-full-graphic-smart-lcd-controller.html

Instructions

As on my other enclosures: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:35438
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:79820
I tried to design a slim enclosure again using a channel outside between the top and bottom part to let the case apear more flat - and, to cover possible impressisions ;-).
I recommend to print the parts in different colors.
To fasten the controller board to the bottom part, first put the distance cylinders between the boards and use metrical screws M3 x 12 (14).
Both will work without tapping before.
There is no room for hexagonal pockets in the top part. You can screw M3 x 16 directly into it.
The second bottom part contains several screw nut deepenings for fastening the case as you like. If you mount it to an 8 mm rod you can use the case clamps.
If the cables are plugged in, the case inevitably has a slope of 6°. In case you need more slope:
I'm already thinking about a base that can be screwed below the housing.
If you are interested, look out for this thing which I will publish separated.

And yes, don't forget to assemble the distance cylinders - the display's bord won't like it ;-)

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Nice case. I remixed it to meet my needs. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2276045 Note that some variants of the RRDiscount Full Graphic Smart controller don't fit without some changes. The panic button on mine is pretty high so I had to carve out a section of the button plunger to make room. The shaft on the rotating selector/switch isn't a D-shaft so I had to rework the knob.

Reprapdiscount Full Graphic Smart LCD Controller Case

I don't quite understand how the LCD display is attached to the case. Can you post a video, or a more detailed instruction list?

The LCD is soldered onto the board. You can't place the board wrong. The plugs are in line to the openings of the bottom case.
The board fits rather tight in the case, so you don't even need to fasten it with srews.
It is quite easy, just print it and you will see.

So you place the cylinders in the gap between the board and display and screw it in to the bottom part first, then screw in the top part. So you would screw through part with the screw nut deepenings to mount the case?

Yes, that's right.
And as I described:
"The second bottom part contains several screw nut deepenings for fastening the case as you like. If you mount it to an 8 mm rod you can use the case clamps".

Mar 26, 2017 - Modified Mar 26, 2017

Tried this one and it sliced very fast and smootly. I then printed the backside of the case. Everything, all the holes and standoffs fit perfectly. But my SD card slot is on the left side of the display, whereby the printed parts have the opening for the SD card slot on the right side of the display. So maybe there are 2 different designs, or they changed it. I can file that small slot out later, so it wont really stop me using it.

Hallo Micha! Ich probier mich gerade mal an deinem Case. Schönen Gruß! Marcel

Mar 27, 2017 - Modified Mar 27, 2017
wersy - in reply to Maboo

Hallo Marcel,
die Aussparung für den SD-Schlitz ist beim Unterteil auch links.
Hast Du versehentlich gespiegelt?
Viel Spaß
Michael

Yes it´s my fault, I mirrored the part :-)

Micha, Du hast es natürlich erfasst! Habe mit meinen ungeschickten Fingern das Teil aus Versehen gespiegelt... Alles andere passt aber trotzdem.

Zum Glück ist es symmetrisch :-)

This is the first thing I've ever printed. It turned out perfectly. Two halves snap together and all holes line up perfectly.
Thanks.

Nice that you were successfully printing this case and everything fits straightaway.

Created a bigger knob for the controller here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2058910

Knob for the Full Graphic Smart LCD Controller

Thanks for this. Looks great! :)

Thank you!
Did you print it?

Thanks a lot!!! Wonderful thing!

Thank you, I am glad you like it.

It would not look very nice if the case is glued together. But if you still want it, you can use netfabb to split every stl by yourself.
http://www.netfabb.com

Is there any files of this split into pieces to print on smaller printers?

Your printer is muchg bigger than mine.

Thanks for design close to fit for my LCD http://fr.aliexpress.com/item/Hot-Sale-3D-Printer-Parts-RAMPS-1-4-LCD-12864-Smart-screen-Controller-Panel-Display-Monitor/32550988155.html

I get 2 issues --> big one the support for kill button on top case was far to deep i had to remove at least 2 or 3mm to be able to use the kill button because without sanding button was "push on" every time.

hole for stick is not perfecly center ( 1mm left and top to much )

Rest is nice thanks a lot....

Hi, Wersy,

Thanks for this great design!
Had one question; Why would you make the screw holes in a 5 point way (in the bottom part)?
Is that better for screwing?

I am sorry, I don't no really know what you mean.
There are each 4 holes to screw the pcb and the upper part.

Other than on http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:79820
The 5th hole on this case is important to stabilize the pcb at the sensitive area where the knobs indicate the most pressure to it.

Case for Reprapdiscount Smart LCD Controller XXL
by wersy

He wants to know why the holes for the screw bosses are a pentagon shape and not just round holes.

You can put nuts into the hexagon pockets. So you are able to fasten screws from outside without the help of a wrench. Furthermore, you can mount and dismount the case without opening it.

Great design - thank you!

Would you mind to post the source files so that it easier to remix it for even more use cases? STL re-mixes are not that useful.

Thank you for considering,
kai

Similar case OpenSCAD source can be found here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:397716

Full Graphic Smart Controller Box for Prusa i3

Sorry, don't take it amiss but generally I don't share source files.
Michael

Why?

That you undermine one of the base ideas of the reprap community is clear to you?

I'm sorry, but that means I will not use this anymore.

kai

You should use it if you like it - but not make it conditional on getting source files ;-)
A lot of made remixes shows that there are no problems using stl files.
BTW, I doubt that you could use my source files in any way.

3D printing is made possible by the open source movement. I am an engineer with many patents; however, my patents are licensed free to small businesses- no major corporations. Wersy, I don't understand why you wouldn't share your files. kdupke: I will design you an .stl file for anything you need, or anyone for that matter. I will not charge. I believe 3D printing will change the world faster than ever before, faster than the industrial revolution or the invention of the internet. A gifted mind equipped with a 3D printer, the possibilities are endless for progression and innovation.

The case fits perfectly! Th only issue i had was the knob. Even sending the file for repair still comes back as non manifold and slicer doesn't seem to like it. Not sure what the case clamp is for either.

"Kilrah" repaired the knob with netfabb. If you still have problems you may download it from him: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:369891
I mentioned the use of the case clamp in the "Instruction": "The second bottom part contains several screw nut deepenings for fastening the case as you like. If you mount it to an 8 mm rod you can use the case clamps".

K8200 mount for Full Graphic Smart LCD Controller
by Kilrah

I picked up a FGD from RRD and wanted to print out this slick case. But I noticed that I could not get it to close well. Also, the spacers were about 1.75mm too short to be of any good. It seems that the spacing between the LCD board and the main board has increased by about 1.75mm---at least in the version I got from them. This is an official unit from RRD.
This is pretty easy to fix on my end (just need to extend the size of the lid) but just wanted everyone to be aware that there is a mismatch in size with recent FGDs from RRD.
If you just got a FGD and want to build this case, make sure you measure the distance between the LCD board and the main board with a caliper. If your distance is around 4.5-4.6mm, then you will have some problems getting the case to fit.

I am sorry that you can't use this case.
Because you mentioned the spacer to be to short, I controlled it and I noticed that the hole is to small. It is because I just uploaded the spacer for M2 screws which is destined for the XXL-Case. Now I uploaded the spacer for M3 screws. The height ist still the same: 3 mm.
I wonder that nobody mentioned this before. I guess no one use them - even I don't ;-)

Oh, I actually am using this case! And I love it, thank you so much for making it!
I just had to use OpenSCAD to make it a little bigger, that's all. Works great now!

Great, I am glad you like it and you could make the changes so you can finally use it. Have fun.

Thank you very much for sharing this!
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???????? ??? ?'??????

Everything should fit. There are different full graphic displays. Anyway, Reprapdiscount didn't changed the design. Where did you get it from?

oh, i have the right one (from RRD) and it basically fits but when i settle the top part on the display and if the displays black border and the top part align (like on your picture above) the shaft of the encoder is around half inside the case including that step on the shaft where the knob should sit on to be able to use the click function of the encoder. Everything else seems to fit rather well. the reset button plays well in this position, too. Additionally the shaft is out of the holes center. it is around 3mm down. Maybe they did change their design? Mine is already a bit older though not from the very early produced ones.

I am sorry. I can only say that it was printed by several friends and they all had no problems.

I wonder nobody commented on that before but the knob doesn't really fit this assembly or did i do anything wrong? Actually the case covers the edge of the rotating encoder completely so it will be hard to have a knob pressing on the edge. Maybe your knob is just printed tight enough to kinda "clamp" on the encoders shaft? Also the hole for the shaft is about 3-4mm out of center for my full gfx controller.

Can you make this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:146379http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... fit this case? I suck at CAD. Need help and a lot of people would use this.

geeetech.com full graphic smart controller board

Sorry, but I am only designing when I have the display to test the print and make sure all fits.
The "7 parts total" you already designed are great http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:166376http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...
Just try to draw the case, it is not so difficult as you might think.

Michael

7 parts total

hi

for a Prusa i3 wanting to put the display attached to the printer and saw that the display is not small where would you put it and how attacheresti without using plain bars

thanks

Sorry that I replied so late. I had some issues with my browsers so I couldn't see any comments for some weeks.
I designed a mount that could fit to a Prusa i3. I don't have any Prusa i3 available, so I can't test if it is strong enough.
The idea is to drill 4 holes in the right side of the frame and tighten it with M3 screws.

Hello Wersy!

Thank you for this case I will use it myself! Regarding the 4 holes on the right side of the I3, It can't fit in the front as it will block the X axis. At the back, the cable won't be long enough and not very usefull. At least the U made the case and I appreciate that!

Thanks again!

I designed a mount for the i3.
Do you think you can use someting like that?

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:143615http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

Mount for Full Graphic Smart LCD Controller to Prusa i3 (not tested!)
by wersy
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