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Thumbwheel M3 with scale 0.01 mm with grip (Nut on bottom)

by jamesarm97, published

Thumbwheel M3 with scale 0.01 mm with grip (Nut on bottom) by jamesarm97 Jun 10, 2015
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41744Views 10232Downloads Found in 3D Printer Parts
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Summary

I modified the original to move the M3 nut trap to the bottom so the thumbscrew could be mounted on the bottom of the assembly (my printer / Duplicator I3 has the screws going through the hotbed then through the Y plate then the nuts on the bottom). I also changed the radius so the part would not hit the front and back on my particular printer (the scad file can still be modified).

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These work great. I put an m3 lock nut below the top washer (fits inside of the spring) to keep the bolt from spinning and a standard m3 nut in the thumb wheel. Thanks for sharing.

Makes adjusting your bed much easier

New to 3d printing and thought these were a good place to start. I was right and got a good useable modification for my printer too. I rubbed wax crayon into the digits and graduations and wiped off access to make them more prominent. Worked a treat. thank you very much.

Today i was just thinking my printer needs something like this to improve the calibrations. Thanks a lot,

Apr 8, 2016 - Modified Apr 8, 2016

Where can you buy proper M3 nuts to fit these? Anywhere like home hardware ect ( Canada )

Just made a set of these and got the nuts at, surprisingly, Canadian Tire. They come in a package of 10 for $1.89 (Product #161-2538-6. See http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/hillman-metric-hex-nut-m3-0-50-1612538p.html ). I found them to be a very tight fit but I just squeezed them in using pliers. Did the first one straight and the other 3 nuts I put in boiling water first so they would soften the PLA when squeezed in. Both ways worked.

I checked a Canadian tire close to me and they didnt have any, will have to check again although I already found a hardware place that sells any and all metric hardware!

And that is not a Nyloc but still should work fine !

Apr 12, 2016 - Modified Apr 14, 2016
gianniamerica - in reply to Clwebb

I also bought M3 nuts at ACE, but they don't fit the ...M3_repaired version. EDIT: They actually worked! You need to squeeze them in with plyers. Also, don't print them with a brim because that will mess with your ability to squeeze in the nuts.

I can't speak for Canada but I can get them from Ace Hardware and sometimes Home Depot. You can order from Amazon also.

These were literally the first non-stock thing I printed, and are so incredibly useful! Thank you!

Mar 25, 2016 - Modified Mar 25, 2016

Can please you create/upload a version that allows you to use the wing nuts with this?

I tried loading this into Repetier-Host V1.6.1 with Slic3r v 1.2.9 and got this error:
"The object is not manifold. This essentially means, that it is not watertight. This normally causes problems during slicing, resulting in unwanted results. We strongly advice [sic] to repair the file."

Any thoughts?

I opened it up in Slic3r and it showed it was manifold. I went ahead and ran it through the cloud repair tool and uploaded that version. It has been printed many times with no error so most likely that error isn't something that would affect the print.

I think the error was probably from line #79 in the OpenSCAD file. Make the following changes and it should be good.

From:
translate([0,0,0])cylinder(hm4,rm4_ac,rm4_ac,$fn=6);

To:
translate([0,0,-1])cylinder(hm4+1,rm4_ac,rm4_ac,$fn=6);

Also for anyone who finds it fit too tight, add values to line #11. +0.3 worked great for me. Just need slight trimming with knife of the opening then press the nut in for a tight fit.

rm4_ac=5.5/2/cos(360/12)-0.1+0.3;

mehrmals hab ich versucht das Rädchen auszudrucken, aber die Datei ist leider nicht Ok.
Schade drum.

What printer are you trying to print it on? What is bad about the files? There are lots of others that have printed them ok. Maybe we can tune a few of your slicer settings.

hi, newbie question: let's say I download the ThumbWheelM3.stl and print it. Then I buy an m3 bolt. I also see some kind of little washer? So if i have the thumbweel, the bolt and washer, I just take off my wingnut, put the washer, then the thumbweel and that is it? thanks

Jan 23, 2016 - Modified Jan 23, 2016

ABSOLUTELY GENIUS! Downloaded the .stl and printed them out on my M3D printer using Polymaker PolyMax filament (super strong). NO adjustments what so ever. Just used my players to compress fit the m3 bolts (had a bunch on hand after using them to secure the Duplicator's printing bed) Thank you very much for this mod. VERY handy!.

I just printed these and they fit the Nyloc nuts I bought perfectly. I'm having a problem, though, where turning the thumb dial just turns the entire bolt, so now I need to use an Allen key as well as the dials to level my bed. Has anyone else run into that?

One of the recommended mods is to put M3 nuts on the screws and tighten to the backside of the bed. The other issue could be that the Nyloc nuts are just right and causing the bolts to want to turn. I know when I use nylocs on other stuff I can't turn them by hand so they are usually pretty strong. Try the nuts on the back of the bed first if you haven't.

Quick tip, if you print a set and you can't fit nuts in. Use a lighter and heat the opening for a few seconds then push the nuts in.

It works even better if you use the tip of your heated up soldering iron to heat the nut and press it into place.

Or the heated hotend of your extruder.

I did this today but had to scale up 110% to get the nut to fit snugly. Nice design, however!

Turned into press fit when I did this, almost perfect.

COMPLETE noob here, so pardon me if my question has an obvious answer, but...

What's the difference between the M3 and the M3Nylock files?

Thanks!!

The M3 is for using regular M3 nuts (I used the "jam nuts" since they are thinner). The Nyloc once fit the nuts with the nylon thread locking mechanism and they are usually slightly larger.

Great item! Love it.
An idea of improvement though - Can you make the middle top kinda dotted or wrinkled somehow.
I think this would be an good idea because the ring would not move as easily from vibrations that way.
I mean if gets some better friction against the aluminium plate.

What do you think ?

I put a small rubber o-ring between the nut and my bed. This gives good friction and seems to hold the setting well

how would you calibrate it I mean guess you have all the numbers a certain way but you need a reference point?

The numbers help remember which way to turn. If you turn counter clockwise or when the numbers go from High to Low then you are lowering the bed or increasing the gap. Low to High you are raising the bed or decreasing the gap (printing more smooshed). The ticks and marks can be used how you see fit. I just mainly use the numbers to know which was to turn and visually adjust the bed as I print with a few skirts and before the print starts.

At 105% scale these worked out to be a good snug fit.

Id recommend printing one off to test fit your nuts.

I had to scale to 104% and that was a VERY tight hammer based press fit!

Darn. Printed a handful of them before getting the nuts from Ace Hardware. The M3 nuts they sell are too big. Will have to mod the SCAD file--thanks for including it.

I would have thought their M3 "jam" nuts should have fit. I have used them before for other things.

Jul 7, 2015 - Modified Jul 7, 2015
rtideas - in reply to jamesarm97

I did buy stainless. Might be the problem there. But still a good solution. Thanks for putting it out there.

Nice looking. What did you use.....PLA or ABS.......I take it is solid?.....

Sorry, I forgot to mention the settings. .1mm layers ABS (PLA shouldn't be a problem if it goes below the aluminum plate like these). Something like 10 top and bottom layers and 20% infill but it is almost solid since it is only 3mm tall. Used 2 shells. Also did a pause right when the number layer changed and switched from blue to while filament to give it some contrast.

Awesome! Just got my Duplicator i3 myself and am annoyed by the wingnuts, good alternative!

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