Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!

Cherry - 60€ 3D-Printer

by Vulcaman, published

Cherry - 60€ 3D-Printer by Vulcaman Jun 10, 2015


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This is Cherry, a 60€-3D-Printer.

Buildsize: 10x10x10cm
Speed. 20mm/s
Resolution: 0.2mm (tested)

If you want to find out more about this printer, please visit my instructables site



Please visit my Instructables site :-)

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a link to the z-axis threaded rod couplers would've been nice, but i found them anyway ;-) http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1764904

28BYJ-48 5mm Z Coupling for M3
by zunder

You want to become an electrical engineer? I thing you actually are one.
Great work

Can you show some photos of prints made with this printer? It seems simple enough to build for my son who wants one and I don't want to give him one of my more complex printers.

Mar 23, 2016 - Modified Mar 23, 2016

Hi. This printer is for 3mm or 1.75 filament?


I am building this 3D printer soon and I need some help on the 3D parts.

I have access to 3D printing services at cost and was wondering which material to choose from:
ABS at 0.03$/cm3
PLA at 0.09$/cm3

I am also wondering what infill I should be using.

My work area will be slightly larger and I plan to print stronger parts during my first prints.

Any help will be greatly appreciated!

get abs because long term abs is more durable and the service you are using is questionable pricing to why abs is cheaper but oh well and for the infill i would go as high as you can because the higher the infill the stronger the part also if this is going to be used for a long period of time i would use the nema 17 mounts for higher speeds and acme rods if you can get ones that fit because they are straighter and also print the lcd mount you will thank me for that because a lcd makes your printer so much easier to use and to change settings also you can have unteathered printing with a sd card so you dont have to hook your printer to a computer while printing and so you dont have to worry about crashes or software errors to ruin your print
If you need any other help just ask i have plenty of time i can allso help once you set up the printer with any slicer setup and config if you need it.

You just replied to a 6 month old comment! :D

I was following your instructable and your recommended bowden extruder seems to not exist anymore! Do you still have the files? Or is there any other you recommend?
This will be my first printer and I'll be trying to build a bigger printer after this! :P

Hey! Amazing work! :-)

Do you use the Nema stepper from the old printer for the filament extruder as the little steppers would have been to weak, or just because you had it laying around? Would it work with a gear, or would the whole thing be to slow then?

How thick is the wood?

I am considering building 5 for workshops at a local school, it's amazing.

Viele Grüße



Ich habe einen Nema 17 Motor benutzt da die Motoren im Direct Drive zu schwach sind. Guck doch mal beim Toyrep hier auf Thingiverse, dort wurde ein geared 28byj-48 Extruder verwendet, welcher gut zu funktionierend scheint :-)

Das Holz hat eine Dicke von 8mm (billigste Spanplatte aus dem Baumarkt)

Mfg Vulcaman

Hallo Vulvaman,

vielen Dank für deine schnelle Antwort!

Ja, habe vor ein paar Minuten gesehen dass der Toyrep einen 28byj Extruder verwendet. Werde ich mal versuchen anzupassen :-) Nur der Toyrep braucht wirklich viel Plastik, das mit den Holzplatten finde ich eleganter gelöst.

Danke auch für die Angabe zur Dicke! Jetzt muss ich mal schauen wo ich das alles bestelle.

Eine Frage noch, entschuldige: Haben die 28byj-48 12v Motoren irgend einen Vor- oder Nachteil (Abgesehen vom Preis, 80 Cent VS 1.30 für die 5v Motoren)?

Dec 26, 2015 - Modified Dec 26, 2015
Vulcaman - in reply to Schorhr

Würde dir zwar gerne helfen, jedoch habe ich keine Erfahrungen mit den 12V Motoren.

Könnte mir aber vorstellen, dass die Motoren nicht so schnell heiß werden, da die 12V Variante wahrscheinlich einen höheren Spulenwiderstand haben. Dadurch weniger Schrittverluste.

...Sind alles nur Vermutungen :-)

Macht ja nichts, hätte ja sein können :-) Für ca. 80 Cent pro Motor ja auch kein Drama wenn einer ausfällt und ersetzt werden muss. Vielleicht bestelle ich auch mal ein paar 12v Motoren mit.

Danke auch dass du dir die Mühe gemacht hast alle Bauteile zu verlinken, viele Angebote sind immer noch die günstigsten bei Aliexpress.

Nutzt du den Cherry noch oder hast du auch einen Drucker mit Nema-Motoren? Ich habe mich mal ein wenig eingelesen was die Geschwindigkeit der kleinen Motoren betrifft und beim Toyrep gesehen dass man ggf. mit 40 teeth T2.5 pulleys etwas mehr Geschwindigkeit heraus holen kann, aber so wichtig ist das ja auch nicht.

Entschuldige die viele Fragen :-)

Ich nutze den Cherry nicht mehr wirklich. (Zu langsam, nicht die beste Qualität...)

Ich habe mitlerweile zwei weitere 3D-Drucker mit Nema Motoren, welche um einiges schneller und verlässlicher lasufen als der Cherry Drucker.

Dennoch ist es möglich mit dem Cherry 3D-Drucke hinzubekommen, wenn auch durch sehr viel kalibrirung.

Ja, dachte ich mir :-) Welchen Drucker nutzt du? Prusa oder ähnliches?

Mit ca. ~50-60€ Baukosten wäre der Cherry ideal um mit Schülern ein paar Nachmittags zu bauen, einfach um das Prinzip zu verstehen, und ggf. denen zu ermöglichen das Gerät auch mal übers Wochenende mit nachhause zu nehmen. Würde ich nur ungern mit meinem i3 machen ;-)

Für die üblichen kleinen Testobjete reichts ja (Schlüsselanhänger, einfache Formen, ggf. Minecraft-Modelle).

Die Nema kosten ja auch nicht mehr so viel (ab 10-15€ wenn ich mich recht entsinne), aber dann kosten einfach die Motoren schon so viel wie der ganze Cherry. Für ein Gerät nicht weiter dramatisch, aber für 5 eben schon. Selbst mit mittlerweile drei großen 3D Druckern wirds in einer Klasse schnell langweilig. ;-)

Ich nutze einen Vulcanus V1 und einen Vulcanus V2, ebenfalls auf meiner instructables Seite zufinden.

Für kleine Objekt ist der Cherry ausreichend, jedoch sollte man selbst bei kleinen Teilen viel Zeit mitbringen.
Druckt halt nur mit 10mm/s.

any chance to build this with a heatbed? just curious - my first printer should be a commercial one - i know :D

I'm building this.where are the file to connected the threaded rods to the motors?

Sep 11, 2016 - Modified Sep 11, 2016
zunder - in reply to Chacofjin

Hey, I just uploaded a coupler version that is designed for M3 bolts (the version by Nutz95 is claimed to be designed for M3, but it is not). It doesn't have the additional blocks, that solarmax has added, but works fine.
Now you have a third coupler to choose from.

28BYJ-48 5mm Z Coupling for M3
by zunder

I modified the original version that madmike8 referenced and added blocks for the 28BYJ-48 Stepper shaft. The shaft has notches this coupler fits better. This is the re-mixed version that I printed on the Cherry and it is working great. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1054536

28BYJ-48 Stepper Shaft - z-axis Coupler
Jul 6, 2015 - Modified Jul 6, 2015
madmike8 - in reply to Chacofjin

I asked the same question on the instructables version. And here's the response.

"Hi, i use these http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:252133

Smartrap - Z axis Motor coupler
by Nutz95

thanks madmike8. very cool design vulcaman!

Just as a side note, you don't need to break open the blue plastic covers and cut the track, simply ignore the red wire, cut it off if you like.

What kind of infill should I use on the parts? Or should I just use full infill (I would prefer to use partial infill so it prints faster).

I use 35% infill for all printed parts :-)

Hey I went to your link for the 120cm stainless steel V2A rod / round steel Ø 8 mm, unpolished, and those don't ship to the US any sellers in the US you know of I might be able to score these?

I'm interested with thoses tiny motor to made my own build (2 for the y, one for the x and 2 for the z with the plate in z like in my corexy), can you post a video of the working machine?
What power supply do youi use?
For the heated bed i think about a pelletier element and aluminium bed as it can be easyly made :)

I use an old ATX-power supply

Comments deleted.

The bearings of the z-rods are very short. It would increase the stiffness a lot if you enlarge the smooth rod downwards and add a second bearing on the bottom plate.

Comments deleted.

Congrats! You beat me by a month or so before I would go public with my small printer with 28BYJ-48. :D

Anyway, great job hacking the motors. I was going to persuade my friend to make unipolar drivers. This is much easier and accessible.

Do you have video of it printing? What stl did you use for the Z axis couplers?

A link to your instructibles page would be great.


Now my instructable is online :-)

Please show video of that small steppers drive the head because i tri to use it and it was to slow. Thank you. Great idea and cheap enough if it work.

I see you put a fix bed. How this can print 3d

How about a link to the instructions?