Replicator 2X Z-Axis Shims for Glass Plates
by MadReasonable, published
Added 6mm and 9mm versions. I haven't tested or even printed these larger sizes but they'll probably work fine. If any of the sizes don't work for you just let me know and I'll see what I can do.
I've made it much shorter and snugger and there's no more wiggle. It works the same way as before except now it only fits over the part of the board directly underneath the endstop switch.
The shim is now 3.2mm high, which is somewhere between 1/8" and the actual thickness of my 1/8" glass plate.
I just sliced a little bit off the bottom of thingiverse.com/thing:67494 to make it work with my 1/8th inch glass plate. I plan on making it a little snugger to reduce the wiggle. I also want to make it much shorter so that it's less likely to warp and so that any warping that does occur is less of an issue.
1/8th inch is 3.175mm and this shim is only 2.5mm but there is more than enough action on the leveling screws to make up the difference.
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If you look at the last photo I uploaded, you'll see than I'm using 2 binder clips. It's not perfect since the print-head can actually be moved anywhere on the platform and even outside of it, but during regular printing the clips never get hit. There are a few, more sophisticated solutions to the problem here on Thingiverse but I haven't needed them.
What are you using to attach the glass build plate to the heated build plate? I have 1/8" glass that fits my Replicator 2x's bed perfectly but I am not sure how to attach it without obstructing the print area.
Thanks in advance!
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I tuned the design of the 3.2mm shim to my print settings and printed the STL file as-is on my 1/8" glass plate using a previous version of the shim that I haven't uploaded. I used Sailfish 7.4 firmware with MakerWare on High Quality (replicatorG and I aren't friends right now).
Layer Height: 0.20mm
Extruder Temp: 230C
HBP Temp: 110C
The shim is no longer centered on the device. It now sits to YOUR left of the z-axis drive-shaft, directly under the endstop switch. The little notch faces the back of the machine and will fit around a support on the backside of the board.
Move the extruder carriage to the front the printer and lower the build plate so that you can easily reach behind the z-axis drive-shaft. Fit the notch in the back first, then roll the shim forward and press down. It's a tight fit but should click into place without too much forcing. To remove it pull up on the front and it should pop off.
If it falls between the two boards you'll need to get a flashlight and fish it out. If it falls behind the rear board it might fall all the way down if you jog the plate up and down a little. In either case it's possible to get the shim jammed against the drive-shaft and potentially harm your machine so be careful if it falls in somewhere.
Printed at .20mm, 2 shells, 30% infill. I want it to be fairly rigid so that the z-axis returns to the exact same position every time, but my settings are probably overkill.
You don't have to remove the back of your machine. Just lower your build plate until you can easily reach behind the Z-axis rod and fit this over the back board of the z carriage (behind the piece with the M logo). The notch in the shim faces the rear of printer and should be centered right behind the rod.
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