Self-Watering Planter (Small)

by parallelgoods, published

Self-Watering Planter (Small) by parallelgoods Jul 2, 2015

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Introducing the first design from Parallel Goods.

This Self-Watering Planter is exactly the growing environment your plants need, while giving you flexibility in your watering routine. It’s super easy to use: just plant your favorite herb or other water-intensive plant, add water, and you’re all set.

The Self-Watering Planter was designed to be 3D printed, easy to setup, use and clean; while at the same time allow for customization through mixing and matching different colors for the pot and reservoir. Be sure to check out the Instructions tab to make sure you get the most out this Self-Watering Planter.

This Self-Watering Planter is part of our 2015 Desk Collection, with more great designs available at http://parallelgoods.co.

Follow us on Thingiverse, Twitter, and Instagram @parallelgoods and stay tuned!


Printing Instructions
This Self-Watering Planter was design to be printed in PLA, and we went through many iterations and lots of experimentation to develop settings which would allow for a water tight print. All of our testing and development was done in PLA to ensure success across a wide variety of printers, without causing too much of an impact to the environment.

Water Tight PLA Slic3r Settings

Layer Height: .3mm
Vertical Shells (Perimeters): 3
Horizontal Shells (Solid Layers): Top – 4, Bottom – 4
Infill: 10%
Speed: Top Solid Infill – 15mm/s, Solid infill – 15mm/s
Prints WITHOUT supports

The extra top & bottom shells combined with the slow solid infill print speeds ensure a thick and even wall for the bottom of the reservoir which provides water tight print. Your mileage may vary, but these settings should give you a fine starting point for use on your own printer.

If you're unable to get a water tight print, we recommend coating the bottom of the reservoir in Titebond-3 Wood Glue. This particular wood glue is waterproof, but still non-toxic, solvent free, and is FDA approved for indirect food contact (i.e. cutting boards).

Use Instructions
Set the pot in the reservoir, add your plant of choice, and fill the reservoir to the line inside of the spout. Refill whenever you can’t see any water in the spout. Every few cycles it’s helpful to let the soil dry out to prevent mold from growing inside the pot.

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For the life of me I can't get the Pot to print. It keeps getting to a certain point on the chamfer and then goes wild. I wonder if I'm having a possible missing layer issue that someone below was mentioning. I need to step thru my simplify3D file to see if there is anything obvious.

Put a raft to the model and it will stick to the bed.

Wasn't a problem getting the pot to stick to the bed, when printing the 45 degree angle it always failed at a certain point. I ended up having to use supports to get it to print correctly.

I'm printing on a Taz 5 and S3D with the recommended settings. It prints fine (nice piece), but I get no infill because the multiplier of the 3 vertical walls and the .5 nozzle basically eliminate the infill ALMOST completely. I have infill set to 20%, and no infill occurs. So the question is, what is the thickness of the wall geometry so that I can determine proper wall/fill. Thanks.

What you're experiencing is totally normal with a .5 nozzle and will yield better results as far as water tightness goes!

Thanks for the reply. As it turns out, this is a function of the wall dimension and the nozzle diameter compounded by the fact that S3D does not do a good job with thin wall infill.

One question... Won't soil fall trough the little holes of the pot? I mean the whole concept works, by letting the soil suck in water from the bottom, right?

The wholes on the angled surface of the pot are more for the soil to breathe, while the holes on the bottom "spout" of the pot are for absorbing water. Some soil may fall through these holes, but not much. We recommend that you clean out the reservoir every few refills to avoid mold from growing inside the pot & reservoir.

Hello I'm printing this right now. I plan on putting mint seeds in it I have a pack of 300 seeds how many should I put in. Thank you!

I'd put in about 8. Mint spreads.

how would this fair in a M3D printer? I'm newer to this and not sure how to change infill settings and such. unless that is the same as fill density for the M3D? I know I have to scale the height down a little bit in order for it to fit but other than that should this work?


I have made it on the M3D and it tends to leak, so i recommend maybe having a lower quality and hollow and thick walls. That may help. Other than that it looks great!

how did you go about printing the inner piece? My M3D says "Cannot print because it is outside the printable bounds of the printer"

I am supposed to fill the reservoir up to the line inside of the spout, but there is no line. The only line I can see is inside of the reservoir, but not anywhere in the spout.

The fill line is just above the bottom of the spout, in line with the top of the logo.

I know a few things about 3D printers, but very little about plants. What type of plant might you recommend for setting on my desk?

We recommendherbs like basil, oregano, parsley, and cilantro; as well as typical house plants.

Mint also works really well, and is great for freshening up the air around your desk!

My print curls and the first few layers, thus the rounding at the bottom turns out ugly :/
I've had many curling issues with my Printrbot Simple Metal, I dont know why. But overhangs always tend to curl up, and I have never gotten a clean round overhand before. I am using a stronger fan on the left, and a big computer fan to cool the right side of the print. Whatever I do, always curling one one side.
Printing with or without doesnt make a difference either...

What kind of filament do you use? I'd recommend PLA since it's food, and water safe, and it doesn't warp nearly as much as ABS, if you're not already using PLA. I use the HATCHBOX brand, they have really good plastic at a cheap price. BTW I wasn't paid to say this. =)

I'm using PLA indeed, the pot looks better now, allthough it cracked at several points. I'm going to give it another try soon.

The Pot failed for me too close to the end too. It just stopped printing. I scaled it to 85% and I am using Slic3r

I flipped it 180 degrees in the slicing program and it failed around the same area...so I just took the two failed halves..sanded them...and glued them together...works perfect now :P

Mar 20, 2016 - Modified Mar 20, 2016
parallelgoods - in reply to elitetux

It sounds like it could be one of two things. Either the part is too big for your printer (even after scaling it down), or slic3r isn't finishing the slicing operation all the way. Try opening the gcode file in a text editor and scrolling all the way to the bottom of the file and see if the end gcode that slic3r adds is in the file. If the end gcode from slic3r is in the file, then it's probably just the part being too big for your printer.

Additionally, try re-downloading the file from thingiverse, perhaps something happened during the download.

Dear friends,

I've problem to print the POT; it seems that there aren't some layers! :-( I think a problem with original file
the RESERVOR is ok


PS: I can send some pictures of the mistake

Missing layers isn't a problem we've heard of before. Share some pictures, we'd be happy to help you troubleshoot.

Mar 16, 2016 - Modified Mar 16, 2016
saxser - in reply to parallelgoods

please...tell me email so I can send some pictures and video

Try posting the pictures to a service like http://imgur.com and sharing them there

After scaling it up a bunch, mine completed with tiny holes in the bottom of the reservoir. Water leaks out :(

Can I print the "Pot" upside down?

You can, but there is a fillet on the top edge of the Pot which others have had difficulty with. Additionally, this would most likely require support for the bottom layers of the pot, unless you're confident in your printer's ability to do bridges.

If your machine is decently calibrated, the 45° overhang of the Pot printed as oriented shouldn't be a problem.

Awesome, I'm just printing everything normally but I need a shorter print time so I scaled it down to 75%. Reservoir is printing right now I'll tell you how it goes.

Would it be possible to scale the width of this? Want to make a larger pot but with same height. Or does it mess up the walls? If not, please design another with broader base. Really like this. Will post some images of the ones I'v made soon!

Hey Robboten -

Thanks for the compliments, we're glad to hear you like our design!

We have a larger (wider) version of our self-watering planter for sale on our website: http://parallelgoods.co/products/self-watering-planter-large

Thanks again! And we'd love to see your makes!

I have tried to print this more than 10 times with various settings on a Replicator 2x with no success... It ALWAYS gets to the same point, and then chokes... Essentially, after the raft is finished, it gets about 2mm of depth and then seems to start shredding the base. Regardless of what filament I use, this is always the result. I've tried layer height of .2mm and 10% infill, and .3mm and 15% infill with no success. Bed is at 110 and nozzle at 230. Does anyone have any recommendations?

Feb 10, 2016 - Modified Feb 10, 2016
Kastley - in reply to guysmiley

I'm using a rep2 as well and no problems here. I'm printing PLA with no raft, same temp

Are you Printing in PLA? maybe lower the temps

I printed with no raft and worked great on da vinci.

Just now printing a reservoir with Taulman t-glase clear. My daughter told me there was some coating that could be applied to make it clear as glass. The write-up is on Taulman's website and I'm thinking of trying it with this filament.

While I'd like it a bit more clear than the way t-glase prints out, I'm not sure I'd put on the number of coatings to make it clear as glass... I just want to have the color of the insert planter to show through a bit more.


You'll have to share a photo of the clear if/once you treat it with the coating.

Jan 8, 2016 - Modified Jan 8, 2016
wsmac7 - in reply to parallelgoods

You bet!
At the moment, I can't afford the $40+ to buy the 'SmoothOn' and have it shipped here, but I'll hit a couple of local stores to see what they have. One place just sells paints (home/auto) and might have something good.

Btw... did a water test and it leaks like a sieve with not too many holes... hahaha. Since I'm planning on coating it, I wasn't trying to get the water-tightness I am with just straight, colored, PLA.

Just printed on up!mini. Had to scale down to 80%. Printed fast with .3mm Layer. Looks good. My wife has to do the Rest now ;)

You'll have to share your make once you've got a plant in it! Glad to hear it turned out good.

What size is this thing? How can I verify that it is small enough to be printed in my P3D printer?

converting PG's inches.... 106.68mm X 121.92mm

The first reservoir I printed shocked me! LOL

I was thinking it'd be maybe 2-3 inched in diameter.... don't know why... but I was really thinking small!

Once I printed it out though... it made sense. Looks to be a great size for the intended purpose.

4.2" diameter by 4.8" height

Just printed for my wife. Had 2 of my printers running:
Pot in black
Reservoir in green.

Came out perfect for me.
25% infill
.2mm layers

I was just wondering what kind of plant you would put in this?

Weed?? ;)


We've had a lot of success using it for herbs like mint, basil, oregano, parsley, and cilantro; but, most typical house plants will work just fine.

I just printed the two parts and they don't fit into each other. Quite frustrating...

I couldn't find where to input your Water Tight PLA Slic3r Settings as-is in the Makerbot print settings interface (I'm using a Replicator 2). I was only able to change the following:
Layer Height to 0.30mm
Infill Density: 10%
Infill print speed: 15mm/s

I couldn't find how to adjust the shell settings. Maybe that's what caused the bad print :(
And are the Water Tight PLA Slic3r Settings just for the reservoir?

The water tight settings are just for the reservoir, but using them for the pot is fine too.

To specify the number of shells in the Makerbot slicing software, you'll need to create a custom profile. Here's a link from the makerbot website that provides and overview on how to do that, and what the different settings mean.


Dec 22, 2015 - Modified Dec 22, 2015

Great design idea, but... that pot has "unnecessarily organic" features. You'll discover some of them when you rotate it to print in a more sane orientation.

Inspect the gcode before you send it to the printer.

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The reality as I see it is that Parallelgoods has done just fine by the design and instructions volunteered here.

They have successfully printed these in the manner they spell out.

Other people here on Thingiverse have done the same

I feel that some of the wording in the comments here come across as argumentative.

The replies given by Parallelgoods has been polite, appropriate, and quite admirable considering the wording of some of the other comments here.

Kudos to Parallelgoods for that! :)

Considering the thin wall, if someone decides to rotate this object 'upside down' to print, there is less material to stick to the bed.
Printing in the orientation that Parallelgoods suggests allows for a greater surface for bed adhesion.

If it's a problem for someone to print in the orientation suggested, and they don't want to flip it and deal with support... perhaps using a raft in the suggested orientation would work well?

I just had the insert/pot fall off my printer bed yesterday after it started the angled bottom... left a whole lot of green spaghetti behind while it kept on printing. I was away at the time.

I cleaned up the mess, prepped my glass bed (which is what I should have done before that fatal print... and is what I see as the reason it failed), then successfully printed a proper green planter insert.

I'm not going to harangue Parallelegoods for recommending printing in the orientation they do... and have done successfully it seems, along with many other people here on Thingiverse.

I take responsibility for my own failures.

I'm enjoying making this... every one I print is coming out really nice, and I get to experiment with water-tight objects and now with creating glass-clear items with my t-glase.

Not sure what you mean by "unnecessarily organic" features or rotating the parts? These parts were designed to be printable in their orientation in their STLs.

Dec 22, 2015 - Modified Dec 22, 2015
goatzilla - in reply to parallelgoods

I thought my printer's layer registration was broken when I printed the pot base, then I realized the base is curved for no apparent reason.

The pot part was designed to be printable... with a large dose of platform adhesion at the little base.

How do you know if your platform adhesion is good enough for all that leverage acting on the base? Well, you won't until a couple hours into the print, when you're like 90% done and then you'll find out if your adhesion was good enough.

That's just unsafe and unnecessary.

There are safer options. You could rotate the thing and print it upside down (and just live with supports in a section where it pretty much doesn't matter anyways in exchange for much better attachment and leverage), except the curved part that mates against the reservoir is slightly raised above the rest of the rim for no good reason, so if you're not watching carefully, your first layers will print in the air and fail. You have to tell the slicer to lay it flat.

And really if you think about it... if you want to print it right-side up, putting legs or supports or something around the outside isn't going to affect the design. All it's doing is sitting in water anyways. But it will strongly affect printability.

Mine is still going, but it is going to suck if it pops off the print bed at like 90% completion or something. And again, for no real good reason. The thing is filled with dirt and is sitting in water inside another opaque container. Seriously.

Sorry to hear you're having problems, but we've not experienced the problem you've described on the numerous printers we've successfully printed this planter on. Sounds like you've got it figured out for your printer though, be sure to post a make once it's complete!

Pot part survived just barely; now printing the reservoir.

The infill settings you're recommending are unnecessarily lean -- again, this is just taking risk without additional benefit.

Granted I'm printing this at 0.2mm layer height.

I do NOT recommend starving the infill at 10%. Increasing it to 25% only increases plastic usage by like 1g, but it makes a large impact on the small areas where surface bridging occurs.

I'm sure you've tested this and it works great for you on your printers, but there are just things here that are simply risk without reward.

We're glad to hear you've found settings that work for your printer. Be sure to share your make when you're done!

Good 'ole selective listening xD

Our designs are created to ensure success on a wide variety of printers. However, every 3D printer is different and there are a large variety of factors in both hardware and software influencing the success of a print. All designs on Thingiverse (not just ours) have an element of "Your Mileage May Vary," and we try to go the extra mile and develop slic3r settings with our designs which serve as a great starting point for printers.

We're always happy to help (see our previous responses to comments on this design), and numerous Thingiverse members have posted successful prints using our settings on a variety of printers.

Dec 23, 2015 - Modified Dec 23, 2015
klowsen - in reply to parallelgoods

Your striving for excellence is impressive, but my point of contention was your deflecting of goatzilla's concerns. The user brought up some valid points (which may or may not have been related to their settings), but you didn't afford them the same patience and attempt at troubleshooting that you've given others, like jleao, stupidheadshane, and chuckr.

Further, I really don't understand why the pot ought not be printed upside down.. That looks like a 45 degree angle to me; an easy feat for a well-tuned printer.

edit: Oh.. didn't see those holes. Oops.

I don't know about you all but this thing prints perfectly on my FlashForge with no supports..a 0.1 layer height and it looks soo fine. Will post pictures soon. Thanks ParallelGoods!

Ya'll complaining that it could have been designed or instructed to print better..why not make your own files and upload? lol

They are releasing the designs for free for god sake's..You want these people to kiss your feet head over heels for solutions? Pay them.

Otherwise, work with the collective community of this open-source platform and find your own solution and publish them OR make and release your own models and publish them instead of complaining and being damn critical.

One of the "all-time best design" out here in thingiverse. Clean, simple and smart.

Thank you so much for saying this, it really means a lot to us!

This is a bit of a shameless plug, but check out our site for more highly printable, beautiful designs! http://parallelgoods.co

Very nice , I realized the white tank and purple pot .
Attention because of the symbol of 3 dashes I had a leak there, I mastik inside.

I got the resevoir to print just fine on the first try with PLA. Using Simplify3d, my settings were infill 10%, .3mm layerheight, top/bottom/perimeter of 4,4,3. Overlap25%. Print took 6 hours and 30m of filament.

I made the top part and had some errors trying to get the base to start printing. After messing around for about 45 mins I now have my xyz JR printer working on making the base. Can't wait to plant my Chocolate mint.

Glad to hear you got it printing okay. Be sure to post a photo when you've got it printed and a plant in it!

I made two of these as a gift for my mom. Fabulous print. I used the same settings that are listed in the instructions.

My only problem was a small hole that appeared on the top line of the logo that is on the side of the reservoir. While printing, there was a small hole where the plastic did not fuse together correctly on the logo. The hole is so small that I needed to use a magnifying glass to see it, but it was large enough for water to leak through.

I used a small bit of water sealant on the inside and outside to patch the hole. It seems to be holding up well and has not been leaking.

My mother loves her new self-watering planters! Thank you Parallelgoods.

Glad to hear you got it sorted out. What did you use to slice the model? The latest version of slic3r has been giving us a little trouble with thin wall parts on printers with a .5mm nozzle (there's a github issue open about it).

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I cant get this file to x3g to save my life. I read a bunch of things on how to do it, but I cant get it to work. Ive used ReplicatorG and Spli3r

We don't have much experience with ReplicatorG. But, to use Slic3r you'll need to use GPX to convert the GCODE file to an .X3G. You can find the GPX post-processing script on thingiverse here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:81425/#files

And here's a great tutorial from 3D Universe where they go through the details on how to setup Slic3r to use GPX. This tutorial is for a Flash Forge Creator on a Mac, but setup should be relatively the same for any printer/os.

Start here, at 3:43 for directions for installing & configuring GPX: https://youtu.be/RkMNx0dD2vE?t=3m43s

Then, zip ahead to 16:34 for directions on configuring Slic3r to use GPX for post-processing: https://youtu.be/RkMNx0dD2vE?t=16m34s

Hope this helps!

GPX gcode to x3g converter

I need a part Assembly drawings on the 2D format with a dimension. I wanna customize my self!

any pdf format for the sketches?

We're please to announce the launch of our website! Find more great models like this Self-Watering Planter (small) at http://parallelgoods.co

Nicely done, ParallelGoods. Your free example is a very nice design and therefore good marketing. And as a result, I'm heading over there now to buy the large-format version for my mom. ;)

Thanks for the kind words, and compliments on our marketing :) Let us know what mom has to say about her planter! Share your make with us here or on Instagram & Twitter! @parallelgoods #parallelgoods

What Time for the Print ?

Karuso01 -

Your mileage may vary (nozzle size, printing speed) but we average about 8 hours for the entire print. We recommend you print the bottom layers of the reservoir at slower speeds to get a water tight print (check the instructions tab), but the rest of the print can be at your regular printing speeds.

Any recommendations for cool looking plants? Want something "funky" on it, but not sure what to grow!


Add1ct3dd -

We recommend herbs like basil, oregano, parsley, and cilantro; as well as typical house plants. Pictured in these photos is a nice mint plant we've had growing for awhile. Check out other user's makes to see what else people are planting.

any video to understands how to use it?

mp3III -

No video yet, but we'll detailed instructions downloadable via our website soon.

I've noticed that in two spots it may leak a bit of water, the logo, and the bottom of the tube. Other than that I love the design.

I had the same problem... Fixed it with a drop of instantglue (Cyanoacrylate) on the leaky-parts.

Stupidheadshane -

Did you follow the slic3r settings we specified on the instructions tab?

Originally no but I did print another with your settings and there was no improvement. My best results were with 100% infill and 6 vertical layers, 6 top and bottom layers, with a .2mm layer height. This only had a very small drip on the bottom of the tube.

If you're unable to get a watertight print, try coating the bottom in Titebond-3 Wood Glue. http://www.amazon.com/Franklin-International-1414-Titebond-3-Ultimate/dp/B0002YQ3KA

This planter is awesome. I can't wait to see more designs!

Thanks Lachlan! We'll be launching our on-line store with more designs by the end of the month! Follow us on twitter or instagram for updates.

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chuckr -

PLA is not a good material to print this with. It absorbs water and becomes more brittle. Remember, it's compostable.
As for Cura, Shell Thickness = vertical shells * nozzle diameter

Wrong PLA is great for this learn to chemistry/microbiology. PLA requires temperatures in excess of 170 degrees F and thermophilic bacteria to break it down, other than that it will last as long as any other plastic.

You beat us to the punch! Thanks LupusMecahnicus for the succinct explanation for why PLA is a great plastic and great for this design!

Great - thanks for that information. It sounds like people are having success with PLA so I'm going to keep at it a little while longer. I just ordered some different colored PET so will move onto that once it arrives.

Aug 5, 2015 - Modified Aug 5, 2015

This is a great object - I love it. I had one question though:

Does anyone have the settings that produce a water-tight print when using Cura? The settings in the instructions don't really map to Cura settings:

Layer Height: .3mm

That's fine in Cura

Vertical Shells (Perimeters): 3

No equivalent in Cura

Horizontal Shells (Solid Layers): Top – 4, Bottom – 4

No equivalent in Cura - there are Top and Bottom Thickness settings, an Initial Layer Thickness setting, and a Shell Thickness setting (all in mm)

Infill: 10%

That's fine in Cura - I don't see why I wouldn't want a 100% fill here though.

Speed: Top Solid Infill – 15mm/s, Solid infill – 15mm/s

That's fine in Cura

I was able to get a water-tight print by using the mostly default Cura settings when printing with UPET, but have never gotten a water-tight print with PLA. Even after using the wood glue to try and seal the inside, it still leaked after a while.

Chuckr -

Unfortunately we don't have any experience with Cura. Check out this make from thingiverse user SmokyFrosty: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:151802

He says he printed it on an Ultimaker2, sliced with Cura, perhaps he could provide a little insight into the settings?

Self-Watering Planter (Small)

Roger that - thanks for the pointer.

May I have permisssion to retail it?

No, we do not want this product to be sold or used for retail purposes. We appreciate you asking.

First off - thanks for the awesome print parallelgoods!!

I'm looking for ideas - what's everyone planting? I'm sort of hoping for a nice year-around plant to keep in the office. Any ideas would be awesome since my plant knowledge is limited :-)

ESUNintel - Thanks for the compliments! Herbs do really well - Basil, Mint, maybe Rosemary. They smell good too.

Aug 2, 2015 - Modified Aug 2, 2015

Probably a stupid question, but how does it water itself? Water cohesion?

There's holes in the bottom of the pot, which allows the plant to take water whenever it gets thirsty.

I usually just increase flow (overextude) on the (bottom)layers to get a watertight vase. Works fine also with fast spiralize prints.
Else pvc glue also works fine as a coating.

Very well done planter. The design is simple and beautiful.

Thank you!

Is the pot suppose to be printed with the small part on the bed? Seems it might have problems getting knocked off that way. It seems it would be possible to print it the opposite way and not have that issue.

ElmoC -

Yes, the pot prints with the small part on the bed. We have not encountered any problems with the part getting knocked off. The part was designed to be printed this way so it can be printed without supports and no bridging.

Wouldn't PLA biodegrade over time with continued contact with water?

I'm thinking either print in ABS, or apply a varnish/clear coat to the print after it's done to ensure longevity...

Pitcherj -

We choose to work with PLA so a wider range of printer owners would be able to print our designs. While PLA is biodegradable it is not water soluble, so using it for a planter should be just fine. And your solution of coating the planter is one we came too as well, which is why we recommend the would glue if you're unable to get a water tight print, or just want some extra protection.

All that said, you could easily print this in ABS, and it would probably print faster since you don't need to print as slowly to get a water tight finish with ABS. I would still recommend 4 top and bottom horizontal shells though, so there's no "infill layers." And I'm sure a varnish or clear coat would be fine too, we just sought out the wood glue due to it's non-toxic nature (also another reason we choose to work with PLA).

If you do print in ABS, be sure to share your make!

Since I have the small Printrbot Play, I scaled it down to .75 in Cura and printed it out - couldn't be happier! Looking forward to growing something at my desk at work, so much fun.

What is the print dimensions of the Printrbot Play?

And be sure to post your make to the "makes" section of thingiverse!

It's maximum is 100mm wide by 100mm deep by 130mm tall, not much to play with but produces some absolutely beautiful pieces, I printed it with my white filament and plan to color the outside. I am confused as from every appearance it's water tight, curious, where would it leak? I need to seal it first just to make sure, but I wonder if it's an effort I actually need to do.

During our exploration of the design, some of our prints would leak slowly over time. We realized that there were really small gaps in the solid infill layers that would still allow water to find it's way through the bottom of the model. We ended up doing a lot of experimentation and testing to develop those print settings on the instructions tab.

if you followed those settings your part should be water tight. The easiest way to check is just fill it with water and leave it out for a few hours (we recommend putting it in the sink!), you'll know if your print is water tight or not then :)

If it's not water tight or you just want the added protection, we recommend using that TiteBond-3 Wood Glue. Waterproof, but non-toxic.

Really cool design! I love how you've avoided needing supports with all the tapering parts.

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Does the pot need to be free floating from the reservoir? I have a couple that are kind of a tight fit, and wasn't sure if it was supposed to float on the water, or stay at the same level.

Fangstave -

The pot is supposed to fit into the reservoir and sit at the bottom, not float on the water. The pot was designed to have a nice fit in the reservoir, something akin to a mass manufactured product. If you have a bit of a tight fit it sounds like the right amount.

It sounds like you've printed a few! We'd love to see a picture!

Can this be printed withought the supports? and do i put soil inside the pot or just the plant(sorry stupid question)?

Darathy -

This can be printed without supports. Check out the instructions tab for details on print settings to get the most out of this model.

And yes, you need to put soil inside the pot. Check thingiverse user MartinWrap's make: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:146694

Self-Watering Planter (Small)

Thank you :)

I don't know if its just Slic3er, but I notice that there are lots of little "beads" inside of the main wall of both parts, and this hasn't really allowed my to print this nicely without a weird "smudge" that I think is formed when the head goes to the next layer, and starts at the same place (this also causes a Z scar, but my printer has always done this), however there is a split second that no plastic is being extruded for one reason or another causing the mildly annoying smudge on the outer wall.

Jul 3, 2015 - Modified Jul 3, 2015
parallelgoods - in reply to Montiey

This doesn't sound like anything we've encountered in our development. Can you post a picture?

Also, what's your nozzle size?

I'm using a 0.4mm nozzle on a hexagon 1.74mm hotend.

Montiey -

It's hard to diagnose without seeing a picture, but from the sound of it, you might want to calibrate your extruder retraction settings. This will probably help with both the Z Scar you mentioned your printer has always done, and with the smudge on the planter. In particular, experiment with the "extra length after retraction" setting in Slic3r to see if this helps.