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Printed HBP Power Connector
by Scooter, published
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Description
After reading several posts and seeing melted connectors I investigated the problem and designed a new connector to fix this problem for my TOM. I first want to make clear this new connetor fixes the melting and heat problem, but I am in no way pionting fault at MBI because I personaly design several prodcuts each year and so far I have never made one perfect yet! Mybe some day, I just wish I had a following to help tweak my products!
Problem: The problem with the connector that is shipped is not that it can not handle the current but the connector is not rated to operate at 100+ degrees Celcius, it is only rated at 75 degrees. What is happeing is when the connector gets to those high temeratures the female receptical is losing it spring on the male pin. FYI the connector is rated at 7 amps at 75 degrees Celcius, at least the molex version has those specks. When it loses tension it gets hot at that very piont and cause those melted pictures i am seeing.
Solution: I designed a part in Solid Edge ST3 that use a two parts form Mill-Max that are rated to operate at those high temperatures. The Mill-Max parts are rate for 11.5 amps and will operate at 150 degrees celcius. FYI they do have a part that will go even higher if need! Any way I designed a conector to hold 6 of these parts. Two of the connections are only need for the high current but I did them all so it would have nice mating strengh. I just ordered 12 samples of each form there website for free! Pin# 6142-0-00-80-00-00-33-0 Female# 0368-0-33-01-13-27-10-0. mill-max.com
Problem: The problem with the connector that is shipped is not that it can not handle the current but the connector is not rated to operate at 100+ degrees Celcius, it is only rated at 75 degrees. What is happeing is when the connector gets to those high temeratures the female receptical is losing it spring on the male pin. FYI the connector is rated at 7 amps at 75 degrees Celcius, at least the molex version has those specks. When it loses tension it gets hot at that very piont and cause those melted pictures i am seeing.
Solution: I designed a part in Solid Edge ST3 that use a two parts form Mill-Max that are rated to operate at those high temperatures. The Mill-Max parts are rate for 11.5 amps and will operate at 150 degrees celcius. FYI they do have a part that will go even higher if need! Any way I designed a conector to hold 6 of these parts. Two of the connections are only need for the high current but I did them all so it would have nice mating strengh. I just ordered 12 samples of each form there website for free! Pin# 6142-0-00-80-00-00-33-0 Female# 0368-0-33-01-13-27-10-0. mill-max.com
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Printed HBP Power Connector by Scooter is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution - Share Alike license.
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Instructions
1st: Order the two Mill-Max Pins, It just take a day or two to get them for free. Also get some 1/4 inch Hel-tube at your local electronics shop or Fry's electronics.
2nd: Print two of the power connetors attached or make your own better version.
3rd Prep the board (see pictures attached) remove the old power connetor with a pair of plyers and with a solider iron remove the old pins. Use some solider wick to remove the old solider so the pin will lay flat on the board (see picture). Also scratch the solider mask from the board on the vias on the main two power conections to help get that 5 amps through there a little better (see picture).
4th cut the rounded top off the male pins so the pin will sit flat on the PCB (see picture).
5th Solider the pins to the HBP pcb using your printed connetor and female pins as a guide to get them on straight and level with the board (see picture). Note make sure you push the male pins into the female pin all the way to there internal stops befor solidering them.
6th Solider the wires to the female pins noting and place them in ther holder. Note the blue wire is closest to you and the colors go blue, black, red, black (20 ga), green, white.
7th Screw the two printed pieces togehter with two 3mm x 10mmm screws.
8th Note I used Heli-Tube to contain all my wiring and to also act as a strain relief to all my TOM wiring. This I must say works really nice. (See picture of completed assembly)
9th Plug it in and you are ready to go.
2nd: Print two of the power connetors attached or make your own better version.
3rd Prep the board (see pictures attached) remove the old power connetor with a pair of plyers and with a solider iron remove the old pins. Use some solider wick to remove the old solider so the pin will lay flat on the board (see picture). Also scratch the solider mask from the board on the vias on the main two power conections to help get that 5 amps through there a little better (see picture).
4th cut the rounded top off the male pins so the pin will sit flat on the PCB (see picture).
5th Solider the pins to the HBP pcb using your printed connetor and female pins as a guide to get them on straight and level with the board (see picture). Note make sure you push the male pins into the female pin all the way to there internal stops befor solidering them.
6th Solider the wires to the female pins noting and place them in ther holder. Note the blue wire is closest to you and the colors go blue, black, red, black (20 ga), green, white.
7th Screw the two printed pieces togehter with two 3mm x 10mmm screws.
8th Note I used Heli-Tube to contain all my wiring and to also act as a strain relief to all my TOM wiring. This I must say works really nice. (See picture of completed assembly)
9th Plug it in and you are ready to go.
Printed HBP Power Connector by Scooter is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution - Share Alike license.
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Thank you. A good valuable revision.