Vibration Damper for Ultimaker

by maxy, published

Vibration Damper for Ultimaker by maxy May 18, 2013

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This is a remake of lazzymonk's Vibration Isolator v3 adapted to the Ultimaker footprint.


Slice it with two walls - the thicknes is 4*0.4mm exactly, so it can be printed without drill-infill vibration. Make sure the walls connect firmly. It helps to over-extrude slightly.

If you print the second copy mirrored, you can start testing with the back feet.

It takes some force to assemble. The inner piece can be clicked down to the botton. Do this after you have forced it in place (the photo shows how to slide it in).

The springs are very stiff. The Ultimaker has all its weight at the top. If the springs are too weak it can build up oscillation. Watch out for this effect at the top, not at the springs.

After a few months, my back feet were notably bent. This was expected: when you put permanent load on PLA, it will creep over time. (ABS too, I'm told.) The design can handle creep to some extent. After 2.5 months, my back feet were lower but still lifting the weight (see photo above). The material I used was the PLA/PHA mix from colorfabb. I don't know if PHA makes creep better or worse. Anyway, creep deformations are permanent. You probably will have to switch front and back legs after half a year, and eventually reprint.

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I think you shouldn't be dampening the vibrations of a 3D printer. The hard jerks of the stepper motors are needed to produce sharp details in your prints. Sure, with these feet the printed model will move with the vibrations as well, but i think it's better to stick to UM's instructions of placing the printer on something solid for best results.

well think i found a good cure for bad filament providers, found some tubing from homedepot 1/4" just measured the extra tubing i bought (0.15$ per foot, bought enough to replace it twice) ID 4.25mm, OD 6.25mm didn't fit hot end quite right at first but i got it to work (single piece of painters tape added to the clamp to make up for the tiny difference that it had. been testing retraction etc on it and it holds perfect, and has enough room for even the worst providers of plastic XD. $1.00 fix for 100's(if not 1000's) of bad prints.

This made me very happy thank you.

just got my printer working(yet again...feeder snapped in 2...yeah should've seen that coming everything from that reel of plastic seems to be breaking) may i ask how well these work for your ultimaker?

I've had the latest version only for a day now. It does well so far, very solid but still flexible. No sign of sagging, but I will know in a month if PLA creep is an issue with the heavy load.

This is actually my first print with Colorfabb PLA, they mix PLA with PHA which seems to make it extra-tough. Absolutely no chance that this will break. But I never had problems with brittle prints myself. Maybe you are printing much too hot, or your PLA has collected too much moisture over time, or you are under-extruding or trying to squeeze too much plastic through the nozzle...

i went through the entire kg in test prints trying to get it calibrated so they'd be worth while....actually so far 2 kg from them. (ultimachine) the gold i got was horrid, rarely printed at all (measured in places up to 3.6mm!) then that one was with the purple which i got maybe the bertho extruder and a mountain of failed test prints(similar issue, but still mostly extruded sometimes, then it's just stop(or they'd come out really iffy like the bertho and then break under the stress), but the last reel i got printed incredibly well (the natural pla). and am currently experiementing with abs, so far have that printing well. i think i'm gonna be avoiding the colored pla from ultimachine for a while just in case .-.

I had my diameter problems with gray PLA bought form Ultimaker, it measured 3.2mm suddenly somewhere in the middle of the roll. I used up a transparent (natural) PLA roll from http://reprapsource.comreprapsource.com, which measured 3.0mm, but very consistent, no problems at all. Maybe you should try colorfabb too, they specify 2.85 mm +/- 0.05 mm which should give you absolutely zero issues, and they claim it's flexible almost like ABS (it indeed feels much stronger, but I never tried ABS). The PLA90 from http://orbi-tech.deorbi-tech.de is also very nice to print with, more flexible, has a nice rough touch, but maybe not the best for springs.

4gotten - in reply to maxy

i see, i'll try some out later, i'm trying my first reel of ABS atm, and replaced the bowden for a polyurethelane (spelling?) one with a 4.25mm ID...and am using the upgraded extruder so in theory the differences should only result in areas of minor over extrusion now. i also have a HBP installed.

however i gotta say this ABS experience is abyssmal, max speed that i've gotten repeated successful prints at is 16mm/s(not a typo, any faster it starts grinding the filament, with or without retraction), tried 225-260C (in 5 degree steps) checked for plugs, (taken apart and cleaned twice just in case) the wheel turns fine all all speeds, just the filament gets eaten completely above 20mm/s and 1/10 prints fail @ 20mm/s. haven't had one fail @ 16mm/s though. if u replay should probably do it in PM as i don't want to completely consume your comments area.